NZ613331B2 - Monoterpene derivatives of chalcone or dihydrochalcone and their use as depigmenting agents - Google Patents
Monoterpene derivatives of chalcone or dihydrochalcone and their use as depigmenting agents Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- NZ613331B2 NZ613331B2 NZ613331A NZ61333112A NZ613331B2 NZ 613331 B2 NZ613331 B2 NZ 613331B2 NZ 613331 A NZ613331 A NZ 613331A NZ 61333112 A NZ61333112 A NZ 61333112A NZ 613331 B2 NZ613331 B2 NZ 613331B2
- Authority
- NZ
- New Zealand
- Prior art keywords
- extract
- formula
- cosmetic
- plant
- linderatin
- Prior art date
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- DQFBYFPFKXHELB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chalcone Natural products C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 DQFBYFPFKXHELB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 7
- 235000005513 chalcones Nutrition 0.000 title abstract description 7
- 239000007854 depigmenting agent Substances 0.000 title abstract description 6
- QGGZBXOADPVUPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dihydrochalcone Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)CCC1=CC=CC=C1 QGGZBXOADPVUPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 5
- PXLWOFBAEVGBOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dihydrochalcone Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1C1=C(O)C=CC(C(=O)CC(O)C=2C=CC(O)=CC=2)=C1O PXLWOFBAEVGBOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 4
- 150000002773 monoterpene derivatives Chemical class 0.000 title abstract description 4
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- GHISAUFWVUOBIR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-phenyl-1-[2,4,6-trihydroxy-3-(3-methyl-6-propan-2-ylcyclohex-2-en-1-yl)phenyl]propan-1-one Chemical compound CC(C)C1CCC(C)=CC1C1=C(O)C=C(O)C(C(=O)CCC=2C=CC=CC=2)=C1O GHISAUFWVUOBIR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 29
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- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012634 fragment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002538 fungal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000010382 gamma-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FOYKKGHVWRFIBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol acetate Natural products CC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 FOYKKGHVWRFIBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960005219 gentisic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000008282 halocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol;octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004337 hydroquinone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000000338 in vitro Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000005764 inhibitory process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003834 intracellular effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003456 ion exchange resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003303 ion-exchange polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- DXDRHHKMWQZJHT-FPYGCLRLSA-N isoliquiritigenin Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1\C=C\C(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1O DXDRHHKMWQZJHT-FPYGCLRLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- LGKJJUMVDIOTCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N linderatone Natural products CC(C)C1CCC(C)=CC1C1=C(O)C=C(O)C2=C1OC(C=1C=CC=CC=1)CC2=O LGKJJUMVDIOTCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002803 maceration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004949 mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 description 1
- 201000001441 melanoma Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 210000002780 melanosome Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000008267 milk Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004080 milk Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003658 monoterpene Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000002577 monoterpenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000004400 mucous membrane Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229930014626 natural product Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 125000002801 octanoyl group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC)(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- 229960001679 octinoxate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002674 ointment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006186 oral dosage form Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000003463 organelle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000000144 pharmacologic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000004694 pigment cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000770 proinflammatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000000425 proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectrum Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010992 reflux Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000011894 semi-preparative HPLC Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940075554 sorbate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229950003429 sorbitan palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- 230000002269 spontaneous effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004885 tandem mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003505 terpenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000007586 terpenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- UEUXEKPTXMALOB-UHFFFAOYSA-J tetrasodium;2-[2-[bis(carboxylatomethyl)amino]ethyl-(carboxylatomethyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CN(CC([O-])=O)CCN(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O UEUXEKPTXMALOB-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 description 1
- 150000003611 tocopherol derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N toluene-4-sulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000032258 transport Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003700 vitamin C derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002478 γ-tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-DQCZWYHMSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-DQCZWYHMSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/12—Ketones
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
- A61K36/28—Asteraceae or Compositae (Aster or Sunflower family), e.g. chamomile, feverfew, yarrow or echinacea
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
- A61K36/54—Lauraceae (Laurel family), e.g. cinnamon or sassafras
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
- A61K36/67—Piperaceae (Pepper family), e.g. Jamaican pepper or kava
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C49/00—Ketones; Ketenes; Dimeric ketenes; Ketonic chelates
- C07C49/76—Ketones containing a keto group bound to a six-membered aromatic ring
- C07C49/82—Ketones containing a keto group bound to a six-membered aromatic ring containing hydroxy groups
- C07C49/835—Ketones containing a keto group bound to a six-membered aromatic ring containing hydroxy groups having unsaturation outside an aromatic ring
Abstract
Disclosed are monoterpene derivatives of chalcone or dihydrochalcone corresponding to formula I wherein R1 is H or CH3 and R2 is H or OH, and the use thereof as a depigmenting agent. Also disclosed are cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising the compounds. The compounds are obtained as an extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum. extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum.
Description
MONOTERPENE TIVES OF CHALCONE OR DIHYDROCHALCONE AND THEIR USE AS
DEPIGMENTING AGENTS
The t invention relates to the use in the field of depigmentation of monoterpene
derivatives of chalcone or dihydrochalcone of the formula (I) and plant extracts containing
them in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
R1 = H, Me (I)
R2 = H, OH
Trihydroxychalcones are disclosed for their depigmenting activity. The position of the
OH groups is particularly ant for this activity. 2’,4’,6’—Trihydr0xychalcone (II) shows
an ICSO on tyrosinase (monophenoloxidase activity on fungal tyrosinase) of 120 uMl.
O OH
O \ _ O
HO OH
Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors have shown that an additional
tution with a terpene or terpineol group (Formula I) greatly enhances this ty. This
type of molecule is very seldom found in plants. To date, only three naturally existing
compounds represented by the general formula (I) have been disclosed in literature: linderatin
(III), linderachalcone (IV) and methyl—linderatin (V).
They have been isolated from:
— Piper adzmcum’i leaves, ceac: (-)—methyl—linderatin,
— Piper hostmamziamtm var. Berbz'censem1eaves (Piperaccao): (-)—methyl’
linderatin
1000414472
— Lindera umbellaz‘a var. membranaeea""V and lancea“, leavesv" or barksv'”,
Lauraceae: (+)—Linderatin, linderachalconeix, methyl-linderatin
- Mitrella kentz'z', trunk bark, Annonaceae: (-)-LinderatinX
A compound with a closely related structure, gymnochalcone (VI), or alpha-terpineol
pinocembrine chalcone, was first isolated by the ors from aerial parts of Helichrysum
gymnocephalum (DC) t.
methyblinderatin (V) gymnoehalmue (VI)
The inventors were also first to isolate linderatin from leaves of Piper aduncum.
With regard to the biological activities described, (-)—1inderatin exhibited cytotoxicity on a
cancer cell line x (-)-Methyl-linderatin has in turn an anti-plasmodial ty .
None of the compounds above has been disclosed for their depigmenting ty.
In one aspect, the invention thus provides an extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC)
Humbert enriched with one or more molecules of the following formula (I)
,x/ /\
9 0H
//\//’§\\/t / \
/ /
HO 0R1
wherein
is a single bond or a double bond;
R1: H or CH3; and
R2 _—. H or OH
as a depigmenting agent.
It is preferred that R1 : 1-1.
i I
Preferably, I | is a double bond, R1 = H and R2 = H or OH, or i is a single bond, R1 =”~
H or CH3 and R2 = H.
More preferably, is a single bond, R1 = H and R2 “ H, that is to say the extract
according to the invention is enriched with atin.
More ably, is a double bond, R1 = H and R2 ; OH, that is to say the extract
according to the invention is ed with gymnochalcone. Such extract is particularly
advantageous since surprisingly, the inventors have found that gyinnochalcone is stable in
time therein. In fact, cyclization of chalcones to flavanone, upon addition of a hydroxyl group
on 1,4—position in the carbonyl group by a Michael type reaction, which brings about
instability of the nes, is not observed in this case.
Such cyclization is observed for the purified gymnochalcone. Thus preferably gymnochalcone
will be used in the form of an t of Helichrysum gymnocephalum.
The inventors have shown that such extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum of the
invention is particularly advantageous for its depigmenting activity. The inventors have also
shown that such activity is particularly specific of the species zrysum gymnocep/zalum
since extracts prepared under the same conditions of Helic/zrysum z‘um, Helichrysum
cordifolium and zljysum stoechias, although they all are rich in flavonoids and
chalcones, do not exhibit any inhibiting activity for the synthesis of the melanin on 816
murine melanocytes.
Preferably, the extract ing to the invention comprises one or more les of
the formula I in an amount of between 0.1 and 30 g, preferably of between 0.1 and 10 g, most
preferably ofbetween 0.1 and 5 g, per 100 g of extract solids.
Advantageously, the extract according to the invention originates from aerial parts of
Helz'c/zrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert (Asteraceae, syn. Stenoclz'ne gymrzocephala). It
is prepared from this plant following traditional steps well known to those skilled in the art.
The aerial parts of ‘c/ziysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert may be harvested at 5
different stages of growth of the plant: vegetative stage, pre-flowering stage, onset—of—
tlowering stage, flowering stage, fructification stage. Advantageously, the extract according
to the invention originates from aerial parts of Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert at
the fructification stage, ably at the end of the fication period.
The preferably dried plant is ground before being extracted with an organic solvent
which may be an ester (ethyl acetate, isopropyl e), an alcohol (methanol, ethanol,
propanol, isopropanol, butanoi), a ketone (methyl ethyl ketone, dimethylketone, methyl
isobutyl ketone), a halogenated hydrocarbon (chloroform, romethane), water or a
mixture of these ts in any miscible proportion.
The extraction is performed at a plant/solvent ratio of between about 1/1 and about
1/20 and may be repeated 2 to 3 times. The temperature of the extraction solvent may range
from room temperature to above ambient, up to the boiling temperature of the solvent
involved. The contacting time of the plant with the solvent is from between about 30 min and
about 72 hrs.
Then a solid/liquid separation is carried out, wherein the plant is separated from the
solvent for example by filtration or centrifugation.
The filtrate obtained may be either:
~ ly taken to dryness by fully evaporating the t, to obtain the
final extract,
~ stored as a liquid in the extraction solvent if it is compatible with its
intended use. In this case it may be more or less concentrated by an evaporation
step,
- concentrated. This concentration step to a compound of interest may be
carried out by techniques known to the one skilled in the art such as liquid/liquid
extraction between 2 non miscible solvents, tion onto a carrier such as silica,
an ion—exchange resin, etc.
4472
An extract obtained by extraction, solid/liquid separation followed by drying es
mass amount of compound(s) comprised in the formula I of between 0.1 and 30 g, preferably
between 0.1 and 10 g, most preferably between 0.1 and 5 g, per 100 g of extract dried material.
If the extract is maintained in a solution, the dried material content of the liquid t is
between 0.1 and 80 g per 100 ml.
Another aspect of the invention s to a process for preparing an extract according to
the invention.
Another aspect of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of plant origin
enriched with one or more molecules of the following formula (I) or the cosmetic use of a
molecule ofthe following formula (I):
wherein
is a single bond or a double bond;
R1 = H or CH3; and
R2 = H or OH
as a depigmenting agent.
It is preferred that R1 = H.
Preferably, is a double bond, R1 = H and R2 = H or OH, or WDQ-ut is a single bond, R1 = H
or CH3 and R2 = H.
2O More preferably, -,*___ is a double bond, R1 = H and R2 = OH, that is to
say the ion
relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of plant origin enriched with halcone; or to the
cosmetic use of the gymnochalcone molecule.
More preferably, is a single bond, R1 = H and R2 = H, that is to say the invention
relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of plant origin enriched with linderatin; or to the
cosmetic use of the linderatin molecule.
Most preferably, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an t of plant origin
comprising one or more molecules ofthe formula I in an amount of between 0.1 and 30 g,
preferably between 0.1 and 10 g, most preferably between 0.1 and 5 g, per 100 g of extract
dried material.
Said extract comprising one or more les of the formula (I) is preferably an
extract of the invention or an extract of plants belonging to the genus Helic/uysum, Piper,
Lindera 0r Mitrella, including: Piper hostmanm’ammz, Piper lzispz‘dum, Piper adzmcum,
Lindera aggregate, Lz'ndera umbellata, Lindera glance, la mesnyz', Mz'trella kentii.
Most preferably, linderatin and —linderatin will be used in cosmetics according
to the ion in pure form, as synthetized, since they are stable in such form.
On the other hand, preferentially to the cosmetic use of pure gymnochalcone, the
cosmetic use of an extract QfHelz'chijVsum gymnocephalum enriched with gymnochalcone will
be d since it is more stable therein than in the pure form.
Advantageously, the cosmetic use according to the invention is ed for bleaching
and/0r lightening the skin and/or bristles and/or hair, reducing and/or removing age spots
from the skin or reducing and/0r removing brownish pigment spots that can be d by
UV or chloasma.
The molecules of the formula (1) and/or the plant ts containing them, as a
depigmenting agent, have also shown good abilities to control and/or inhibit the production of
melanins, which are sible for pigmentation, thereby displaying an advantage in
depigmentation of some unaesthetic pigment spots due to hyperpigmentation of the epiderm,
especially age spots on skin.
The molecule of the a (1) according to the present invention may be obtained by
chemical or biochemical synthesis, or from a plant extract.
It is preferred that the molecule of the formula (I) is selected from the group consisting
of:
, halcone (Formula VI) wherein i is a double bond, R1 = H and R2 = OH,
— linderatin (Formula 111) wherein5 is a single bond, R1 = H and R2 = H,
— linderachalcone (Formula IV) wherein is a double bond, R1 = H and R2 = H,
~ methyllinderatin (Formula V) wherein i is a single bond, Rl CH3 and R2 = H.
10004 14472
In the case where the molecule is gymnochalcone, the plant source will preferably be
Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert; and more preferably the aerial parts of
Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert, and even more preferably the aerial parts of
Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert harvested at the fructification stage.
In the case where the le is linderatin, it will preferably be obtained by chemical
synthesis.
In the case where the molecule is a linderatin of plant origin, the plant source will
preferably be Lindera umbellata var. membranacea and lancea; and more preferably the leaves
or barks thereof.
r aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition
comprising, as an active ingredient, an extract of plant origin enriched with one or more
molecules of the following formula (I), or one or more molecules of the following formula (I):
H’J’A‘
.j‘ff wk
iJ II
HE) J” on,
w‘v‘wlwr is a single bond or a double bond;
R1 = H or CH3; and
R2 = H or OH.
It is preferred that R1 = H. Preferably, «www.- i is a double bond R1 = H and R2 = H or OH, or
- is a single bond, R1 = H or CH3 and R2 = H.
More preferably, is a double bond R1 = H and R2 = OH, that is to say the invention
s to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, as an active ingredient: a plant
t enriched with gymnochalcone, or the halcone molecule.
More preferably, is a single bond, R1 = H and R2 = H, that is to say the invention
relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, as an active ingredient: a plant
extract enriched with linderatin; or the linderatin molecule.
Most preferably, the invention relates to the cosmetic or dermatological composition of
the invention which comprises, as an active ingredient, an extract of plant origin comprising
1000414472
one or more molecules of the a I in an amount of between 0.1 and 30 g, preferably
between 0. 1 and 10 g, most preferably between 0.1 and 5 g, per 100 g of extract dried material.
Advantageously, said extract is an extract of the invention or an extract of plants
belonging to the genus Helichrysum, Piper, Lindera or Mitrella, including: Piper
hostmannianum, Piper hispz'dum, Piper aduncum, Lindera aggregata, Lindera umbellata,
Lindera glauca, Mitrella mesnyz'. Mitrella kentiz'.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a dermatological ition according to the
ion for use as a medicament.
r aspect of the invention s to a dermatological composition according to the
invention for use for depigmenting the skin and/or bristles and/or hair.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a dermatological composition according to the
invention for use in the treatment of hyperpigmcntation of the skin.
ageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for
reducing and/or removing and/or preventing pigmentation spots on the skin.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the ion is used for
bleaching and/or lightening the skin and/or bristles and/or hair.
The use of a molecule of the formula I and/or a plant extract containing such molecule
according to the present invention thus makes it possible to even out the skin tone: which is
characterized by a uniform, lighter, more transparent, brighter skin tone. This results in the
ness ofthe skin tone being therefore ed.
Advantageously; the cosmetic composition according to the ion is used for
evening out the skin tone.
The advantages obtained with the composition according to the present invention are
V particularly beneficial to sensitive skins, regardless of their nature (dry, normal, oily), and more
particularly for sensitive skins which are dull and lack brightness.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used in
sensitive skins.
The use of the molecules of the formula (1) and/or the plant extracts ning them
according to the present ion is advantageous for:
— either reducing and/or removing spots of pigmentation, such as spots of
hyperpigmentation due to proinflammatory , for example UV—induced brownish
pigment spots, or reducing and/or removing ma;
- reducing and/or inhibiting the production of melanins, which are
responsible for pigmentation.
The cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions according to the invention may
include, besides the active ingredient(s), a physiologically acceptable medium; i.e. which is
compatible with the skin and/or the scalp, the mucous membranes, the hair, the es and/or
the eyes.
Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the t
invention comprises an amount of the molecule of the formula (I), as an active ingredient, of
between 10 mg and 5 g, and more preferably n 100 mg and 1 g per 100 g of said
composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present
invention comprises an amount of the plant extract of the invention, as an active ingredient, of
between 0.1 g and 10 g, and more preferably between 1 g and 5 g per 100 g of said
composition.
The cosmetic and/or dermatological composition ing to the present invention
may advantageously be ed in any dosage forms y used in the ic and
dermatological fields for topical or oral use.
Preferably, the topical form may be particularly provided in the form of:
— an optionally gelled aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution,
— an optionally ase lotion-type dispersion,
— an oil-in—water or in-oil or multiple emulsion,
— an aqueous gel,
and may be provided as a serum, a cream, a gel, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a paste or a
foam. It may also be applied as an aerosol or as a solid, including for example in the form of a
stick.
One of the advantages of the present invention is that the compositions according to
the invention show a good skin tolerance, even on sensitive skins, regardless of their nature
(dry, normal, oil y)_
1000414472
This ition may also be provided in an oral dosage form, such as a tablet, a
capsule, a powder for drinkable sions.
The composition may also comprise any components usually used for the intended
application. Those include water, solvents, mineral, animal and/or vegetable oils, waxes,
pigments, chemical or mineral filters, antioxidants, fillers, surfactants, izers, preservatives,
aromas, and coloring agents.
The composition may also e a depigrnenting active ingredient according to the
invention with other depigmenting actives well known to those skilled in the art, including:
vitamin C derivatives, resorcinol derivatives more particularly 4-n-butylresorcinol or 4-(1-
phenylethy1)benzene-l,3-diol, hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid and derivatives thereof,
tocopherol derivatives.
The choice and/or the amount of the one or more ingredients will be also ined by
the c needs of the skin and/or bristles and/or hair to which the composition will be
applied, as well as by the properties and consistency that are d for the composition
ing to the present invention.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a ic method for ing and/or
lightening the skin and/or bristles and/or hair comprising the application to the skin and/or
bristles and/or hair of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic method for reducing and/or
removing and/or preventing pigmentation spots on the skin comprising the application on the
skin of a cosmetic composition as defined in the invention.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a molecule of the following formula (VI)
Hot-NJ
0 OH
if 2"}, ‘x
g OH
It is preferably obtained by chemical or biochemical synthesis, or from a plant extract.
Reference to any prior art in the specification is not, and should not be taken as, an
acknowledgment, or any form of suggestion, that this prior art forms part of the common
general knowledge in Australia or any other jurisdiction or that this prior art could reasonably
be expected to be ained, understood and regarded as relevant by a person skilled in the
art.
1000414472
10a10a
As used , except where the context requires ise, the term "comprise" and
variations of the term, such as ”comprising H H
, comprises” and "comprised", are not intended to
exclude other additives, components, integers or steps.
The invention will be better understood with reference to the following non—limiting
examples which are specific embodiments of the cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions
according to the invention.
Example 1: Preparation of an t of aerial parts of IIelic/ziysum
gymlmcephalum
kg of dried aerial parts were extracted twice with 35 and 25 L of 95% ethanol under
reflux. The combined filtrates were concentrated and dried. The extract obtained, in the form
of a brown paste, contained 0.28 g of gymnochalcone per 100 g of solids.
Example 2: Preparation of Linderatin by chemical synthesis
The linderatin was obtained by a ep synthesis ing the reaction scheme
below, disclosed in literaturexv,xvi
O CH
refxv
UVCN D 0I
HO OH
HO OH
(VII)
The synthesis of molecule (VII) was performed by condensation of phloroglucinol
—trihydroxybenzene) with hydrocinnamonitrile in the presence of ZnClz and HCl gas in
anhydrous ether.
O OH O
m ref xvi + HO OH O
HO OH O
(VII) andrene
linderatine (Ill)
atin was then obtained by condensation of oc—phellandrene which is
commercially available from Sigma Aldrich (95%) and the molecule (VII) in the presence of
para—toluene sulfonic acid in anhydrous benzene.
The resulting linderatin was identical in all respects to the natural product disclosed in
literature”.
2012/050669
Example 3: Preparation of gymnochalcone from the aerial parts of uysum
gymnocephalum :
The aerial parts were dried and ground, before being extracted with ethyl acetate. Such
extract was fractionated on a medium pressure silica column eluted with heptane,
dichloromethane and acetone, resulting in l 1 fractions after TLC analysis and combination of
identical fractions. Active fraction 8 was then fractionated on C—18 grafted silica with a
gradient of acetonitrile/water + 0.1% acetic acid, resulting in ion of gymnochalcone of
the formula VI (0.02% yield/dry .
Structural data:
Analysis by electrospray source mass spectrometry in positive ion mode gave the
adduct [M+Na]+ = 431.3 and [2M+Na]4r = 839.4. In negative ion mode, [M—H]' = 407.3 was
found. The mass of the compound was therefore 408 g/mol. In MS/MS a 152 fragment was
released ponding to a-terpineol (or p—menth~1-enol).
Mono- and bi-dimensional proton and carbon NMR is resulted in the
identification of the structure in relative configuration, having the empirical fonnula
CQSHZXOS-
gymnochalcone (VI)
The NMR profile was characteristic of 2’,4’,6"trihydroxychalcone (11), except in the
3’ position. It was also very close to that of linderachalcone UV)“, with the exception of the
8”, 9” and 10” positions, which were further deshielded due to the presence of a yl
function at 8”,
WO 98134
Functional
"Position group
Table 1: NMR shifts (in ppm) of the proton and carbon atoms of gymnochalcone in
deuterated chlorofonn.
Example 4: Preparation of methyl—linderatin from leaves of Piper atluncum
The leaves were dried and ground, before being extracted with ethanol 96 (1wt/10vol)
by maceration at room temperature for 15 hrs, in the dark. This extract (17% yield) was
fractionated on a medium pressure silica column eluted with heptane, ethyl acetate and
methanol, resulting in 21 fractions after TLC analysis and ation of identical fractions.
Fractions 3 and 4 were subsequently fractionated by semi-preparative HPLC on C-18 grafted
silica with a nt of acetonitrile/water, resulting in isolation of methyllinderatin of the
formula V (13% yield/extract, 2.2%/dry plant).
The NMR and mass ometry data were consistent with those disclosed in
literature for methyllinderatin“.
Examples of cosmetic compositions
Examgle 1: Depigmenting’ serum
Compound Amounts
atin 0.1g
(Di)Sodium EDTA 0,05t00.5g
Cetearyl alcohol/Ceteareth 33 lto 10g
Caprylyl (Di)Ether 1t010g
Glyceryl stearate lt08 g
(Cyclopenta)decamethyl Siloxane ltolO g
Capric capryliC/trigly. 3O 7O lto 10 g
Glycolic acid 1t05 g
Sodium hydroxide 1to3 g
Benzoic acid qs
Purified water tolOOg
Examgle 2: Bleaching! Cream
Compound Amounts
Dry extract 'chrysum gymnocephalum 0.5g
Carbomer K 0.2 t02g
Purified Chlorphenesine 0.05 tolg
yethanol qs
Cetyl l g
Sorbitan palmitate lt08g
(Poly) Sorbate 40 0.1 t02g
Capric capryliC/trigly. 3O 7O lto 10g
(p)Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate ltolOg
(alpha) Tocopheryl acetate 0.5g
(Tri)Ethanolamine 0.8g
3O MBBT/Decylglucoside Mix lto 10g
Purified water to 100g
Pharmacological testing: inhibition of melanin synthesis:
cytes are star-shaped cells, which are contained in minor proportion in the
basal layer of the epidermis. Their main function is to insure melanogenesis, a process
whereby melanin is synthetized to specialized organelles, known as melanosomes, then
transported and buted to the neighboring keratinocytes via their dendritic extensions.
This contact with keratinocytes enables skin pigmentation, a protection mechanism of the
epidermis against the nic effects of ultraviolet rays. Each melanocyte is related with
about thirty-six keratinocytes, thus forming an «epidermal—melanin unit».
Melanogenesis consists of a series of enzymatic and spontaneous reactions, having
ne as a precursor. Three major enzymes take part in this process: tyrosinase, and
tyrosinase—related proteins 1 and 2 (TRP l and 2)“.
Some exogenous molecules are known to down—regulate melanogenesis.
uinone inhibits melanin synthesis by providing a substrate for nase in order to
divert its activityx'll Arbutin which contains hydroquinone acts in the same way. Kojic acid
decreases the activity of tyrosinase by inhibiting UV-induced hyperpigmentationxm. Vitamin
C inhibits tyrosinase but also behaves like a powerful reducer by preventing oxidative
coloration of n. Vitamin A decreases the expression of tyrosinase and TRP-ZXW,
We have developed a test for measuring melanin synthesis by using a metric
assay on the murine melanoma cell line B16-F10. This assay enables to test the depigmenting
power of active ingredients.
H "NW. nmw “ “6331551515
" .............
ICStl 1
mochalcone' 17uM
Linderatin
Arbutin
Hydmi‘éiiiérWW
W “ EtOHQSeXtIact t)l;fifihi’hifllfllfll
gyl’lli’lUCé’p/lélllllil l i it ' H H T
L N , l ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,_
”NM“... WWW ,._c,_,,c_._,_,,,
Bioorganic & Medicinal try 13, 2005, 433—441
Orjala 1. er al. New monotei‘pene-substituted dihydrochalcones from Piper aa’urzczmz. Helv.
Chem. Acla 1993, 76, 1481—1488
Portet B. et al., Activity~guided isolation of antiplasmodial dihydrochalcones and
flavanones from Piper hostmannz‘anum var. berbicense. Plzytochemistry 2007, 68, 1312—1320
Ichino K. et (11., Revised structures of Linderatone and methyllinderatone. Heteroeycles
1990, 31, 549—553.
V Ichino K.
e! (11., Studies on the flavonoid components ot‘Lindera umbellala THUNB. Var.
membranacea ) MOMIYAMA Chem Pharm Bull 1989 37, 944—947
lchino K. ez £21., A new ne, neolinderatone, from Lz’ndera umbellata THUNB. Var.
Lancea MOMIYAMA. Chem Pharm Bull 1989,37, 1426-1427
Vii lchino Ker al., Two novel flavonoids from the leaves of : umbellata var. Lancea
and L. ata. Tetrahedron 1988, 44, 3251—3260
Vi“ Shimomura H. et al., A chalcone derivative from the bark of Lindera umbellczta.
Phytoclzemistry 1988, 27, 3937—3939
Ichino K., Two flavonoids from two Lindera umbellata varieties. Phytochemz‘stry 1989, 28,
955-956
K Benosman A.
et (11., New terpenylated dihydrochalcone derivatives isolated from Mitrella
kentz'i. J. Nat. Prod.1997, 60, 4.
XiJimbow,K. er al. Intracellular lar trafficking of tyrosinase gene family protein in eu-
and pheomelanosome biogenesis. Pigment Cell Res. 2000. ,‘13 Suppl 8. 3110. ~7. 13 Suppl 8,
110-117.
Curto,E.V. er al. Inhibitors of mammalian melanocyte tyrosinase: in vitro comparisons of
alkyl esters of gentisic acid with other putative inhibitors. Biochem. Pharmacol. 1999, 57,
663-672.
Kuwabara,Y. et al. Topical ation of gamma-Tocopherol tive Prevents UV-
lnduced Skin Pigmentation. Biol. Pharm. Bull. 2006. Jun. ,'29. (6. )31175. —9. 29, 11754 179
Ortonne, J. P. and Bissett, D. L. (2008) JInveStig.DermatolSymp.Proa2008/1pr;l3(1):10—
4. 13, 10-14
XV Kamarul, A. M
et al. Tetrahedron 59 (2003), 61 13
m Crombie
L, et al. J. Chem. Soc, Perkin Trans. 1988, 1251
1001186405
THE
Claims (2)
1. An extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert enriched with one or more molecules of the following formula (I): 5 wherein is a single bond or a double bond; Rl = H or CH3; and R2 = H or OH, wherein said extract comprises one or more molecules of the formula (I) in an amount of 10 between 0.1 and 30 g per 100 g of dried material, and wherein said extract is obtained from a solid/liquid extraction in an organic solvent ed from esters, alcohols, ketones, nated hydrocarbons or a mixture thereof.
2. A process for preparing an extract according to claim 1 comprising the 15 following series of steps: harvesting, drying and grinding aerial parts of Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert (Asteraceae, syn. Stenocline gymnocephala), extracting the ground al obtained from the previous step with an organic solvent at a plant/solvent ratio of n about
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR1150386A FR2970416B1 (en) | 2011-01-18 | 2011-01-18 | NOVEL MONOTERPENIC DERIVATIVES OF CHALCONE OR DIHYDROCHALCONE AND THEIR USE AS DEPIGMENTING |
| FR1150386 | 2011-01-18 | ||
| PCT/EP2012/050669 WO2012098134A1 (en) | 2011-01-18 | 2012-01-18 | Monoterpene derivatives of chalcone or dihydrochalcone and their use as depigmenting agents |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| NZ613331A NZ613331A (en) | 2015-08-28 |
| NZ613331B2 true NZ613331B2 (en) | 2015-12-01 |
Family
ID=
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