NO161630B - PROCEDURE AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING A TEXTILE SUBSTANCE - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a method and an apparatus as stated in the preamble to the following, respectively claims 1 and 3.

There is a constant search in the textile industry for commercially usable methods by which textile fabrics, especially woven or knitted, smooth fabrics or loose fabrics suitable for the manufacture of clothing or for decorative use, can be patterned, surface treated or otherwise made more attractive in an economically more reasonable or more versatile way than using existing methods, or methods by which such substances can be patterned or surface treated in unusual and attractive ways. Of particular value are methods with one or more of the following characteristics: 1. Ability to produce a number of different patterns or texture effects, depending on process conditions and

the nature of the substance being sampled,

2. Ability to produce decorative patterns or textural effects on a variety of different substrates, for example woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, smooth fabrics, fuzzy

fabrics, woolen fabrics, impregnated fabrics, etc.,

3. Ability to simulate decorative weaving or knitting effects on textile fabric in woven form at speeds that exceed the speed associated with commonly occurring decorative weaving or knitting systems, and to

markedly lower price,

4. Ability to pattern or texturize textile fabric in woven form at prices equal to or below the prices

in connection with commonly occurring embossing systems, 5. Ability to change from one pattern or texture to another, completely different pattern or texture by

a minimum of cost or lost production time,

6. Ability to pattern textile fabric using electronically generated or stored pattern data so that the fabric can be patterned directly from digitally encoded

pattern data,

7. Ability to pattern textile fabric with a pattern without conventional limitations of pattern repeat length.

Examples of prior art include EP-Aj^ 99639 and US patent documents 3,635,625 and 4,471,514, which all deal with patterning using a heated fluid under relatively low pressure. The modifications which according to this known technique are achieved on the substrate are of a thermal nature. More specifically, EP-A;1 99639 relates to a method and an apparatus in which a thermally modifiable substrate is brought near a hot air supplying manifold, US patent no. 4,471,514 relates to an apparatus for straightening heated air under relatively low pressure (0.07 - 0.35 kg/cm<2>) on the surface of a thermally modifiable substrate, while US patent no. 3,635,625 relates to an apparatus for embossing a thermally modifiable substrate by means of hot fluid jets.

The purpose of the present invention is to arrive at a method and an apparatus of the kind mentioned at the outset

) kind, which makes it possible to achieve all of the properties indicated point by point above, and this is achieved according to the invention by the new and distinctive features which are indicated in the characteristics in the following, respectively claims 1 and 3. Advantageous embodiments of the invention are stated in the other subsequent requirements.

The method according to the present application is thus based on the mechanical interaction between the substrate and the high-speed fluid jets. In contrast to what is the case with the known technique according to the above-mentioned publications, no heat is included in the process, nor is it necessary.

Admittedly, there are previously known methods in which high-speed fluid jets, in particular water jets, have been used for the treatment of textile substrates. However, this known technique has involved filtering textile fibers to create a non-woven substrate. The method and apparatus according to the present invention are used to pattern or decorate existing woven or knitted substrates, and not to manufacture or reinforce the fabric.

With the method and apparatus according to the invention, it is thus mechanically possible to modify the surface appearance or texture of the substance in a preselected manner. By controlling the liquid jet dimension, flow rate, the nature of the fabric substrate, etc., many different and unexpected patterning effects can be achieved. Texture-wise differences can thus arise which imitate the effects of a Jacquard-type weaving process, but which are achieved at a much greater speed and at a much lower price than with such a specialized weaving process. It is also possible to achieve effects similar to the embossing effects that arise when using different embossing rollers or hot gas embossing systems, but without it being necessary to heat the embossing medium, with the resulting costs. Other effects will be apparent from the subsequent description in connection with the accompanying drawings. It should be noted that the use of various unheated gases as working fluids is also taken into account.

Furthermore, the method according to the invention, used in connection with various devices and methods for controlling fluid flows, can be used to pattern substances with patterns that are electronically stored or generated. When using such systems for controlling fluid flows in connection with the present invention, patterned fabrics can be produced with arbitrarily chosen pattern repetition lengths, and the patterns that are transferred onto the fabric can be changed without significant downtime for the patterning apparatus and without the need for a stock of patterns -"matrices" that take up significant storage space.

The invention is described in more detail below

with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 shows a schematic side view of a device for practicing a version of the method according to the invention, whereby a cut length of fabric is patterned or textured by a crossing liquid jet under the control of solenoids or pneumatic valves. Figure 2 shows a side view of an embodiment of the nozzle device for a single jet. Figure 3 shows a schematic side view of a device for practicing a version of the method according to the invention, whereby a continuous fabric material is patterned or textured by a crossing liquid jet under the control of solenoids or pneumatic valves. Figure 4 shows a schematic plan view of the device according to Figure 3. Figure 5 shows a schematic side view of a device for practicing a version of the method according to the invention, whereby a series of jets, under individual solenoid or pneumatic cylinder control, are used to pattern or texturize a fabric material. Figure 6 shows a schematic perspective view of the device according to Figure 5. Figure 7 shows a section of a nozzle assembly which is suitable for use in the device according to Figures 5 and 6. Figure 8 shows a schematic side view of a device for carrying out a version of the method according to the invention, whereby a cut length of fabric is patterned or textured by a crossing jet of liquid located directly opposite a template located between the jet and the fabric surface. Figure 9 shows a schematic side view of a device for practicing a version of the invention, whereby a number of liquid nozzles are used which are fitted into a template in the form of a cylinder which in turn is brought into close proximity to the fabric surface. Figure 10 shows a schematic perspective view of the device according to Figure 9. Figures 11-32 show different device types that can be used when practicing the method according to the invention. Figures 11 and 12 show vertical sections of a device that can be used when practicing the method according to the invention, whereby a flexible tongue 58 is pushed into the path of a fluid jet by the movement of a piston 60. Figure 13 shows a partial section, along the line XIII-XIII of the device according to figure 11. Figure 14 shows a side view, partly in section, of the device according to the invention shown in figures 11 and 12, and in which paired, generally oppositely located rows of multi-tongue rows are used to create several closely spaced liquid jets. Figure 15 shows a perspective view of eh multi-tongue row for use in the device according to figure 14. Figure 16 shows a section of the device according to figure 14, which schematically illustrates the way in which a tongue can be pushed into the path of a liquid jet, to interrupt the jet. Figure 17 shows a section along the line XVII-XVII in Figure 14 which illustrates the mutual displacement of the generally opposite multi-tongue rows. Figure 18 shows a perspective view, partly in section, of a device for use in the practice of the method according to the invention, where the beam Lene is created by means of parallel grooves in the outer surface of a flat block, and where multi-tongue rows located generally opposite are used to interrupt the beams . Figure 19 shows a section along the line XIX-XIX of the device according to Figure 18, which illustrates in more detail the part of the device which is connected to the first liquid jet creation. Figures 20 and 21 show side views, partially in section, of a device for carrying out the method according to the invention, where the fluid jet is created by fluid ejection through the channel in a rigid tube extending the cantilever from the fluid manifold, and where a piston or plunger is used for deflection of the free end of the cantilevered pipe, so that the beam formed by the pipe can be directed either towards a workpiece or towards a fence, as can be seen from figure 21. Figure 22 shows a side view, partly in section, of a device which can is used for controlling a number of fluid flows that are formed by the fluid passing through the channel in rigid,

cantilevered pipes.

Figures 23 and 24 show sections along the lines XXIII-XXIII and XXIV-XXIV respectively in Figure 22. Figures 25 and 26 show enlarged sections along the line XXV-XXV in Figure 24, which schematically illustrate the beam creation and beam blocking when using the cantilever pipe construction according to figure 22-24. Figure 27 shows a side view, partly in section, of the device according to the invention shown in Figure 22, where a greater linear density of beams along the roll axis 21 is achieved by using a multi-tube row. Figure 28 shows a section along the line XXVIII- XVII1 in Figure 27, which illustrates the mutual displacement of the tubes 136. Figure 29 shows a perspective view of a device for practicing the method according to the invention in which a transverse jet of control fluid is used to interrupt the fluid flows created in the grooves 166. Figure 30 shows a section along the line XXX-XXX in figure 29. Figure 31 shows an enlarged section of the inlet and outlet chambers in the device according to figure 30, which shows the effects of activating the control beam. Figure 32 shows a section along the line XXXII-XXXII in Figure 31. Figures 33 and 34 show microphotographs (1.9x), taken using reflected and transmitted light, respectively, of the front side of the patterned fabric according to example 1. Figures 35 and 36 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected and transmitted light, respectively, of the front side of the fabric according to example 1. Figure 37 shows a photomicrograph (1.9x), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the patterned fabric according to example 2. Figure 38 shows an electron scanning microphotograph (17x) of the front of the fabric according to example 2, with the treated part on the left. Figures 39 and 40 show photomicrographs (1.9x and 10x, respectively) taken using reflected light, of the front side of the patterned fabric according to example 3. Figures 41 and 42 show photomicrographs (1.9x and 10x, respectively), taken using reflected light, of the back side of the fabric according to example 3. Figures 43 and 44 show photomicrographs (10x), taken using reflected and transmitted light respectively, of the front side of the patterned fabric according to example 4, with the treated part at the top. Figure 45 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back side of the fabric according to example 4. Figure 46 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to example 5. Figure 47 shows a photomicrograph (1.9x), taken using transmitted light, of the backside of the fabric according to Example 5. Figures 48 and 49 show photomicrographs (l/9x and 10x, respectively), taken using reflected light, of the frontside of the fabric according to Example 6. Figure 50 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using transmitted light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 6. Figure 51 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the backside of the fabric according to Example 6. Figure 52 shows a photomicrograph (1.9x), taken using transmitted light, of the front of the fabric according to example 7. Figures 53 and 54 show photomicrographs (10x), taken using reflected light, of the front and back, respectively of the substance according to example 7. Figure 55 and 56 shows photomicrographs (10x), taken using reflected light, of the front and back sides of the fabric according to Example 8, respectively. Figure 57 shows a photomicrograph (1.9x), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 9. Figure 58 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back side of the fabric according to example 9. Figures 59 and 60 show photomicrographs (1.9x), taken using reflected and transmitted light, respectively, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 10. Figure 61 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back side of the fabric according to Example 10. Figures 62 and 63 show photomicrographs (1.9x and 10x, respectively) taken using reflected light , of the front side of the fabric according to Example 11. Figure 64 shows a photomicrograph (10x) taken using transmitted light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 11. Figure 65 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the backside of the substance i according to example 11. Figures 66 and 67 show photomicrographs (1.9x and 10x, respectively), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to example 12. Figure 68 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using transmitted light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 12. Figure 69 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the backside of the fabric according to Example 12. Figures 70 and 71 show photomicrographs (1.9x and 10x, respectively), taken under application of reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 13. Figure 72 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back side of the fabric according to Example 13. Figure 73 shows a photomicrograph (1.9x), taken under application of reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to example 14. Figure 74 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken during the application of reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to example 14, with the treated part on the left and at the top. Figure 7 5 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back of the fabric according to Example 14, with the heated portion almost to the upper right. Figure 76 shows a scanning electron photomicrograph (15x) of the back of the fabric according to Example 14, with the treated portion near the bottom right. Figures 77 and 78 show photomicrographs, (respectively 1.9x and 10x), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to example 15, with the treated part on the right. Figure 79 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using transmitted light, of the reverse side of the fabric according to Example 15, with the treated portion to the right. Figure 80 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back of the fabric according to Example 15, with the treated portion on the right. Figure 81 shows a photomicrograph (l/9x), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to example 16. Figures 82 and 83 show photomicrographs (10x), taken using reflected and transmitted light, respectively, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 16. Figure 84 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back of the fabric according to Example 16. Figures 85 and 86 show photomicrographs (1.9x and 10x, respectively), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 17. Figure 87 shows a photomicrograph (10x), taken using reflected light, of the back side of the fabric according to Example 17. Figures 88 and 89 show photomicrographs (1.9x), taken using reflected light respectively and transmitted light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 18. Figures 90 and 91 show photomicrographs (10x), taken using reflected light, of the front and back sides of the fabric according to Example 18, respectively. Figures 92 and 93 show photomicrographs, (respectively l , 9x and 10x ), taken using reflected light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 19. Figure 94 shows a photomicrograph, (1.9x), taken using transmitted light, of the front side of the fabric according to Example 19.

A device for use when carrying out a version of the method for producing products according to the invention is shown schematically in figure 1. In connection with the following description, it is assumed that the selected fluid consists of water, although this can be replaced by other fluids . The water or another desired active fluid can be delivered at the desired speed and pressure using a pump 8. If a single liquid jet is used, the pump must be able to deliver a single jet with a cross-sectional dimension of at least 0.08-0.76 mm at dynamic pressures of 21-210 kg/cm2 (ie flow velocities of 61-203 m/second), although jet dimensions and jet pressures (or velocities) outside this range may prove advantageous under certain circumstances. circular jets are preferred, with diameters of 0.18-0.76 mm. Such jets have a diameter that is generally less than twice the distance between mutually adjacent threads in most textile fabrics. Furthermore, dynamic pressures of at least 70 kg are usually preferred /cm2. The use of several, simultaneously occurring jets, as described in the following, will of course require increased pump capacity. As shown in Figure 1, the pump 8 is connected to a source 2 of the desired active fluid, for example vi s water, through a line 4 and a filter assembly 6. The filter assembly 6 has the task of freeing the active liquid from unwanted parts that could clog the various nozzle devices which are described in more detail below. Other, additional filters can be used, and are described below. The high output pressure from the pump 8 is transferred through high-pressure lines 10 and 10A to a high-speed jet nozzle device 12. In simple form, the nozzle device 12 can consist exclusively of a suitable end portion of the line 10A with a single opening of a dimension that will produce a fluid jet of the desired cross-sectional shape and -surface and which will function safely at the desired pressure, as shown in figure 2. The wires 10 and 10A. can be of any suitable type that can safely accommodate fluids of desired pressures and flow rates and with a flexibility or stiffness that allows placement of the nozzle device 12 in the desired position in relation to the substrate to be treated.

A roller 20 is placed immediately at the nozzle device 12 to support the textile fabric to be patterned. The roller 20 generally has a firm, smooth and inelastic outer surface (e.g. of polished aluminum or stainless steel), and a roller with a specially treated or designed outer surface may be useful for creating certain special effects on selected substrates. It has thus been shown that the use of a profiled roller outer surface can produce patterning effects corresponding to the roller outer surface's profiling on the substrate.

The fabric 25 in connection with the roll 20 can consist of a cut-to-length length which is laid tightly around the outer surface of the roll 20 and fixed at both ends, as shown in Figure 1, or which can be in the form of a continuously advanced material which is placed against a part of the roll 20, as shown at 26 in subsequent figures.

In order to be able to produce a pattern on the fabric 25, contact must be made between the fabric and a high-velocity fluid flow that emanates from the nozzle device 12, and which is interrupted in a manner consistent with the desired pattern. Any suitable means which will prevent a preformed high velocity fluid stream from impinging directly on the fabric surface may be employed. Preferred ways are shown in Figure 1-31 and described in more detail below.

Means for jet interruption or control can be seen in Figure 1 which shows a schematic side view of a texturing and patterning device in which a nozzle device 12 for producing a single high-speed fluid jet 18 is connected to a table 14 which is movable in a transverse direction. With the help of the table 14, the nozzle device 12 can be moved in a precisely controlled and repeatable manner, parallel to the axis of the roll 20 which is wound on a length of the fabric 25, possibly in the form of a tube or a short piece of the fabric, which is laid around outer surface of the roll 20 and securely attached at both ends. The nozzle device 12 can be manufactured by fitting a high-pressure cover 13 with a single opening of the correct dimension at the end of a suitable high-pressure line 10A, as can be seen from Figure 2. More complicated nozzle devices can of course also be used, as described in what follows.

The lines 10 and 10A are connected to a remotely operated fluid valve 16 which is preferably connected immediately at the nozzle device 12, in order to reduce the length of the line 10A between the valve 16 and the nozzle device 12. The valve 16 can be controlled electrically, pneumatically or in some other way. In one embodiment, valve 16 consists of an electric solenoid valve marketed as model V52H by Skinner Valve Company, a division of Honeywell Inc., of Minneapolis, Minnesota. The valve is connected in a conventional manner in front of the nozzle device 12 for regulating the fluid flow in the line 10A.

With the help of the pump 8, an active fluid, for example water, is pumped during operation from the fluid source 2, through the filter 6 to the valve 16. If the part of the substance 25 which is located directly opposite the nozzle device 12 is to be treated, the valve 16 is opened, e.g. e.g. by means of an electrical or pneumatic control signal, and high-pressure water is advanced through the line 10A to the nozzle device 12, where a thin high-speed water jet 18 is formed which is directed towards the fabric 25.

When, for the sake of the desired pattern, it is necessary that the beam 18 does not hit the substance 25, a corresponding electrically or pneumatically transmitted command will cause the valve 16 to be closed. The desired parts of the fabric outer surface are placed under the beam 18 achieved by precise coordination of the rotational movement of the roller 20 and the transverse movement of the transverse table 14, which can preferably take place under computer control.

On the assumption that an indicator is used for indication, by means of a digital signal of the exact rotational position of the roller 20 and the lateral position of the transversely movable table 14, a computer can be used for issuing on/off orders in the valve 16 in accordance with pre-programmed pattern data. It is taken into account that the roller 20 can be arranged for continuous rotation while the transversely movable table 14 is moved relatively slowly and linearly in steps along the roller axis, or preferably that the roller 20 can be arranged for periodic movement while the transversely movable table 14 is moved along the outer surface of the fabric for each periodic turning movement of the roller 20. When using the latter method, the fabric 25 can be in the form of a material 26 which is advanced over the roller 21, as shown in figures 3 and 4, and which is better suited for commercial production methods.

It should be noted that the single jet nozzle device 12 can be replaced by a multiple nozzle array if desired. For most commercial applications, this will be a preferred embodiment, particularly if computer control can be used to control the number of valves required in such a system, as described in the following.

According to Figures 5-7, an assembly 32 comprising a multi-nozzle row is arranged immediately at the outer surface of a fabric material 26 which is guided over a roll 21. The row assembly 32 can have a width large enough to extend completely over the fabric 26, or the width can be a fraction of the fabric's 26 width. In the latter case, a transversely movable board or other device, as mentioned earlier, can be used to achieve full width coverage. In connection with each nozzle in the in-line unit 3 2 and connected to the corresponding line 10A, there is arranged a separate, remotely operated valve 16A which serves to interrupt or control the high-velocity jet emanating from the respective nozzle in the in-line unit 32. These valves can, as previously mentioned, be of any suitable type, for example electric, pneumatic, etc., and can be fitted in any conventional and satisfactory manner which will allow safe and accurate control of the pressure fluid. A hydraulic accumulator or ballast tank 30 is fitted between the pump 8 and the row of valves 16A. By using such a tank 30, the pump 8 can be dimensioned for a slightly smaller capacity than otherwise possible. Short-term peak demands for high-pressure fluid, e.g. when. all nozzles radiate for a given, short-lasting period of time, can be accommodated by the stored or accumulated capacity in the tank 30. Figure 7 shows a section of the row aggregate 3 2 which is taken perpendicular to the outer surface of the roll 21 and halves the nozzles in the aggregate 32. A nozzle block 34 is drilled out and provided with pipes 35 which extend over the block 34 and which are firmly connected to respective supply lines 10A. A nozzle plate 33 is equipped with bored out and converging channels 36 which together form a nozzle row.

Figure 8 shows another embodiment of the invention, where between a single nozzle or a row of nozzles and the fabric 25 a template is fitted instead of the previously described valves, for interrupting the liquid flow. As shown in figure 8, the tubular template 40 consisting of stainless steel, plastic or other suitable material which will serve for masking fabric parts that are not to be processed, is placed in a fixed position over the length of fabric 25 which is attached to the roll 20. It can if desired, a transversely movable device 14 is used to move the high-velocity jet or jets created by the aggregate 12 or 32, along the outer surface of the template 40, when the template and the fabric rotate together on the roll 20. If a multi-nozzle row of sufficient width is used, the transverse facility 14 unnecessary. The fluid streams will be brought into direct contact with the fabric only where this is permitted by openings in the template 40.

In an alternative and preferred version, the template is designed in such a way that the fabric to be patterned can be presented as a continuous material. Figures 9 and 10 show an embodiment with a cylindrical template 40A which is arranged for receiving a multi-nozzle array assembly as shown at 32 in the template 40A. In this version, the nozzle assembly 32 preferably consists of a row of nozzles which extends over the entire width of the template 40A which in turn extends over the entire width of the fabric material 26. The nozzle assembly 32 is preferably located immediately at the inner wall of the cylindrical template 40A whose outer side is preferably located immediately at and possibly in direct contact with the outer side of the fabric material 26. Means, not shown, are provided for smooth rotational movement of the template 40A, synchronously with the movement of fabric material 26. This can be achieved, for example, by means of a suitable gear transmission that drives a gear ring in connection with one or both ends of the cylindrical template 40A.

It is further taken into account that a single nozzle or a row of nozzles can be fitted in the cylindrical template 4OA which can be moved transversely so that the entire width of the fabric 26 can be processed. The use of such a transversely movable nozzle or row of nozzles will preferably require jump-like movement of the fabric 26, as previously discussed. If the nozzle or nozzles are applied with small, reciprocating transverse movements ("cradling"), a more complete or even coverage of the fabric surface can be achieved for a given nozzle dimension.

Other methods for selective interruption or other control of one or more high-speed liquid jets which are directed towards the fabric surface under the control of pattern information are described in the following.

Figures 11-13 show various views of a device which is arranged to interrupt a thin high-speed jet of a fluid, e.g. water, under the control of electrically coded order information. From the line 10A, through a threaded connection part, water or other liquid of the desired pressure and flow rate is transferred to a generally U-shaped nozzle block 50. A threaded intake chamber 52 is arranged in the block 50, where from one end there is a bore 54 that connects the chamber 52 with the opposite side of the block 50. The bore 54 is dimensioned and designed in accordance with the desired flow cross-section for the fluid to be controlled. The nozzle block 52 is connected to a spring-like tongue assembly 58 consisting of a thin, flat intermediate piece of flexible material, for example metal sheet, as shown in figure 13, which is attached at each end of the assembly 58 base part by means of bolts 56, only one of which is shown. The tongue assembly 58 comprises a flat, proximal part which is securely attached to the inner side of the block 52 which is provided with the bore 54, and an opening 59 through which the liquid jet from the bore 54 can pass unhindered. The tongue assembly 58 further comprises a flat, cantilevered portion that extends directly over, parallel to and flush with the path of the liquid jet emanating from the bore 54. The tongue assembly 58 is positioned in the nozzle block 50 in such a way that the free or far end of the cantilevered portion of the assembly 58 can is forced into the path of the high-velocity liquid jet emanating from the bore 54, for example under the influence of a pressure piston 60. When a liquid jet of relatively high speed hits the free, protruding end part of the tongue assembly 58, the jet will not be deflected or diverted as a continuous jet, but instead is completely interrupted, whereby a dense veil of fog with little resemblance to a column of liquid arises. When the pressure piston 60 is withdrawn, the impact of the liquid jet against the free end of the tongue assembly 58 will cause this to be returned to its starting position above the liquid jet path with an extremely fast reaction time. The pressure piston 60 can be moved by means of an electrically controlled solenoid 62 of the type used in high-speed printers and which can be operated in dependence on electrically supplied pattern information. The solenoid can of course be replaced by a pneumatic valve and an air cylinder in connection with a device for pressure regulation under the control of pattern information. By means of a set screw 63, the solenoid 62 is firmly anchored in the nozzle block 50.

A perforated plate is arranged directly opposite the bore 54

64 with a through opening 65 of a dimension which slightly exceeds the cross-sectional dimension of the liquid jet at this point in the jet path. The perforated plate 64, which is attached to the nozzle block 50 through bolts 55, serves as a barrier for the jet remnants that occur when the free end of the tongue assembly 58 is introduced into the jet path. If fluids are used, outlet channels (not shown) or other suitable means for removing the radiation fluid may be provided.

Figures 14-17 show several embodiments of this device, in which several jets can be created and controlled by using a pressure piston controlled tongue which is forced into the jet path. In the version shown in Figures 14-17, two separate rows of tongues 81 and 82, of the same type as in Figure 15, are fitted generally opposite each other in control blocks 79 and 80 in front and on either side of a linear array of beam-forming channels or nozzles 75 which are drilled or otherwise formed in the nozzle block 74. The flat and cantilevered parts of the tongue rows 81 and 82 are located flush with the respective jets that will emanate from the channels 75. The nozzle block 74 is in a conventional manner, e.g. with bolts 73, attached to a liquid distribution manifold 70 which in turn, through a threaded inlet part 72 and a filter set 71, is connected to a high-pressure source, not shown, for the desired, effective fluid. Upper and lower shut-off plates 88 and 89 are mounted in front of the rows of tongues 81 and 82, and through a slot-shaped recess in the plates 88 and 89 as shown in figure 16, the liquid jets can hit the fabric 25, the roller 21 or other target every time the individual tongues in the rows 81 and 82 are out of contact with the respective jets emanating from the channels 75. As can be seen from Figure 16, pushing out the pressure piston 84 will cause the respective tongue 81 to penetrate into the path of the liquid jet emanating from the respective channel 75 and thereby interrupt the beam and directs any beam residues towards the shut-off plate 89.

As can be seen from Figure 17, which shows a section along the line XVII-XVII in Figure 15, the rows of tongues 81 and 82 as well as individual, order-controlled pressure stamps 84 which are each connected to and located flush with a tongue in the rows 81 and 82, arranged staggered or alternately on both sides of the nozzle array 75. It is thereby possible to introduce single tongues in the arrays 81 and 82 from opposite sides of the control blocks 79 and 80, when two or more adjacent jets are to be interrupted. The pressure pistons 84 may be operated electromechanically, pneumatically, etc. in a conventional manner like the previously described solenoid 86, and preferably in dependence on digitally encoded data from an EPROM or the like. sources. Figures 18 and 19 show a variation of the device according to Figures 14, 16 and 17, where the beam-forming channels or openings are arranged in a special way. A slotted block 90 of U-shaped cross-section forms a fluid manifold 91 adjacent to a blocking block 94. A series of evenly distributed, parallel slots or grooves 92 of a depth, width and profile corresponding to the cross-section of the desired liquid jets. Through the grooves 92, pressurized fluid can escape from the mani-fold 91 and hit the roller 21, unless the fluid jet is interrupted under the influence of the rows of tongues 81 and 82. The planar locking block 94 is forced against the upper side of the block 90 by means of bolts 95 which are introduced through the carrier block 98, whereby a pressure-resistant, liquid-tight seal is created. High-pressure fluid, e.g. water, which is delivered through the filter 71, is introduced through a common, threaded connection part into the manifold formed by the blocks 90 and 94. By means of bolts 96 which can extend through the support block 98, the blocks 90 and 94 arranged and fixed against the control blocks 79 and 80 which jointly occupy rows of tongues 81 and 82, pressure pistons 84, valves 86 and shut-off plates 88 and 89, similar to the embodiment according to figures 14-17 and as shown in figure 19. The control blocks 79 and 80 can be attached to the support block 98 by means of bolts 99 or in another appropriate way. Figures 20 and 21 show different views of another apparatus that can be used to interrupt the shock action from a thin high-velocity fluid jet depending on order information, e.g. digitized, electrical signals, which are supplied from outside. In this apparatus, the thin fluid jet is formed by the fluid passing through a rigid and cantilevered, thin-walled tube which is deflected mechanically by means of a piston or other device that acts close to the cantilevered end of the tube, so that the fluid is directed towards a fence instead of towards the fabric surface. From a line, the desired fluid (the "active" fluid) is delivered at the desired pressure and flow rate, through a suitable connecting part, to a chamber block 110. An intake manifold or a chamber 112 is arranged in the block 110.

In the side of the block 110, a channel 114 is drilled or otherwise created, which is dimensioned to receive a rigid, thin-walled tube 116 with an inner dimension and shape corresponding to the dimension and shape of the fluid jet that is desired to be created. The block 110 can, if desired, be produced in the form of two mutually corresponding halves, so that the channel 114 can be produced by milling a groove in the outer surface of one or both halves, instead of by drilling a hole. The pipe 116, which may consist of stainless steel or other suitable material, is introduced into the channel 114 and firmly anchored in it, to ensure that the high pressures associated with the active fluid will not displace the tube or cause leakage of the active fluid. The pipe 116 projects outwards from the channel 114 in the direction of the roller 21 in a sufficient length that the free or far end part of the pipe 116 can be deflected at a small angle, without the pipe 116 being damaged. The tube 116 is connected to a pressure piston 120 which is placed near the cantilevered or far end of the tube 116 which will thereby be deflected when the piston 120 is extended. A shut-off plate 118 is fixedly anchored slightly in front of the far end of the tube 116 and extends so far towards the path of the fluid flow that the fluid jet emanating from the tube 116 hits the upper part of the plate 118, when the tube 116 is deflected by the pressure piston 120, as shown in figure 21. When the tube 116 is not deflected, the created beam will pass over the upper part of the shut-off plate 118, as shown in figure 20. The shut-off plate 118 can, if desired, be of an inverted design, so that the beam will only pass over the edge of the plate when the tube 116 is deflected. In connection with the shut-off plate 118, there is arranged a drain, not shown, through which the deflected liquid is diverted for removal or return. The pressure piston 120 can be operated in a conventional manner by means of an electric solenoid, an air cylinder and pneumatic valve or in some other way, as shown at 122. The end of the pressure piston 120 which is in contact with the pipe 116 can optionally be designed to receive the pipe contour , i.e. be arranged to short-circuit or grip the tube 116, and it is preferred that the stroke length of the piston 120 is adjusted so, regardless of the contour shape of the end part of the piston 120, that the piston 120, when it does not deflect the tube 116, extends to a point immediately at or in contact with the tube 116, so that the backlash will be small when the piston 120 is extended to deflect the tube 116, and unwanted oscillations will be reduced.

Figures 22-28 show an apparatus of similar operation to the apparatus according to figures 20 and 21, but suitable for controlling a beam array which is created in the same way as shown in figures 20 and 21. As can be seen from figures 22 and 24, it is presented working fluid, through the high-pressure conduit 10A (Figure 24) and a threaded connector, to a generally cylindrical intake chamber 132 that extends along a nozzle block 130. A number of tubes 136 each of the desired internal dimension and positioned generally perpendicular to the outer surface of the roll 21, is firmly connected with channels 134, adapted to the outer dimensions of the tubes 136, in the nozzle block 130. Through the tubes 136 and the channels 134, the high-pressure fluid in the chamber 132 can flow through the tubes 136 in the direction towards the outer side of the fabric 25, the roll 21 or other target.

It is preferred, without being necessary, that the pipes 136 extend through the channels 134 to the chamber 132. The pipes 136 can be anchored in the channels 134 by being attached directly to the nozzle block 130, in that a flange is soldered to each pipe which is tightly fitted into a mechanically created slot in the block 130, or in some other suitable manner. The pipes 136 must be so designed and project outwards from the nozzle block 130 in a sufficient length to be able to be bent at small angles, under the influence of the pressure pistons 140, without causing unwanted deformation.

Flexible deflector pistons 140 are introduced through a bending frame 138 which is firmly anchored at a short distance from the nozzle block 130 and are enclosed by hollow piston guides 141. The pressure pistons 140 can be made of stainless steel or other suitable material, and the piston guide 141 can consist of tubes of suitable internal dimensions and of a material with the necessary flexibility for the desired deflection and shaping. Each pressure piston 140 and each piston guide 141 is associated with a respective individual tube 116 and precisely adjusted by means of the bending frame 138. Each piston 140 is adjusted so that it maintains contact with the respective tube 136, also when this is located in its undeflected position, as shown in figures 23 and 25. By maintaining this contact, the reaction time will be reduced, vibrations due to impact between the pressure pistons 140 and the respective pipes 136 will be eliminated, and other vibrations or oscillations along the pipe 136 will be dampened. The bending frame 138 also serves as a guide for controlling the movement of the pipes 13 6 during deflection and return, as indicated in figure 23. The pressure pistons 140 are controlled by valves 142 which are relatively large and therefore located at some distance from the point where the pressure pistons 140 act against the pipes 136. The bending frame 138 according to figures 22-24 can, for practical reasons, be designed for the installation of eight separate valve/piston assemblies and for receiving,

in association with a section of the nozzle block 130, of eight tubes 136, so that a fluid regulation module is created which can be assembled, as shown in figure 24, with a view to simultaneous treatment over a relatively wide rolling surface.

During operation, as shown in Figures 25 and 26, the active fluid, when one of the pressure pistons 140 is retracted, i.e. when the tube 136 is not deflected, will be guided at high pressure through the tube 136 from the chamber 132 and hit the barrier edge 144, where the fluid jet deflected and spread. When the piston 140 is extended under the control of the corresponding, associated valve 142 and piston guide 141, depending on pattern information transmitted to the valve 142, the tube 136 will deflect slightly, not enough to cause unwanted deformations, but sufficiently so that the jet from the pipe 136 clears the locking edge 144 and is guided in the direction of the roller 21, as shown in figure 26.

Figures 27 and 28 show an apparatus of a similar nature to that described online, for use when greater nozzle density is needed (ie the number of nozzles per unit length across the outside of the roll 21). With this embodiment, double the nozzle density can be achieved as with the device according to figures 22-24. In this case, two parallel rows of tubes 136 and 136A are introduced into the nozzle block 130A through channels 134 and 134A, which are connected to a chamber or manifold 132A.

The bending frame 138, the series of pressure pistons 140 and piston guides 141, the position of the valve 142 and of the locking edge 144 according to figure 22 are largely repeated at 138A, 140A, 141A, 142A and 144A respectively, to create an "over/under"- device which, according to Figure 27, constitutes an almost mirror-image combination of the device version according to Figure 22. The mutually opposite rows of tubes 136 and 136A as well as the bending frames 138 and 138A are, however, mutually offset, as can be seen from Figure 28, with a view to uniform placement of the additional beams in the axis direction of the roller 21. It should be noted that in the deflected position the tubes 136 and 136A from the upper and lower rows in Figure 28 will not form a straight line ] angs the axis of the roller 21. The purpose of this shifted position is to compensate the tubes 136 and 136A deviation in the deflected position from the normal direction towards the outer surface of the roller 21. The small angle that occurs due to the movement of the pressure pistons 140 and 140A will, with accurate adjustment a v the total distance to the outer surface of the roller 21, the piston extension length, etc., cause the jets emanating from the mutually offset tubes 136 and 136A to strike the outer surface of the roller 21 or a substrate 25 positioned against the roller, in practically perfect alignment.

Figures 29-32 show a further device for creating and interrupting a high-pressure fluid jet, as it forms part of the described main invention. As can be seen from the section in figure 30, a high-pressure fluid is transferred from the line 10A and through the filter 71 (figure 29) to a manifold chamber 162 in an inlet manifold block 160. Along one side of the manifold block 160 is arranged a flange 164 with an even spaced row of milled parallel grooves 166. Each groove 166 extends from the chamber 162 to the leading edge of the flange 164,

and has cross-sectional dimensions corresponding to the desired cross-sectional dimensions of the beams. A regulating pipe 170 is arranged for each track 166, through which air or other control fluid of relatively low pressure is directed on command, and these pipes are in one case placed largely flush with and perpendicular to the tracks 166 by means of a series of holders or sleeves 172 in the flange 164, each of which is located in direct vertical alignment with a respective groove 166 in the flange

164, and in which each pipe 170 is firmly anchored. The bottom of each of the holders 172 includes a series of small channels 174 which in turn are in direct communication with the lower part of the associated track 166. In one embodiment, the channels 174 consist of a series of mutually flush, circular openings, as shown in Figure 32. The tracks 166 can, if desired, be wider and shallower and can be replaced by a single, larger channel. As shown in both Figure 32 and Figure 29, the tube/holder combinations can optionally be staggered, so that the grooves 166 can lie closer to each other without adversely affecting the structural integrity of the flange 164.

The inlet manifold block 160 is firmly anchored by means of bolts 161 to an above outlet manifold block 180 and a locking plate 178. The locking plate 178 can be attached to the outlet manifold block 180 by means of screws 179 or in some other way. There is an outlet chamber 182 and an outlet line 184 in the outlet manifold block 180. The outlet chamber 182 and the outlet line 184 can extend over several slots 166 in the flange 164, or separate chambers and outlet lines can be arranged for each slot 166. However, it is preferred that the chamber 182 is positioned so that the channel 174 leads directly to the chamber 182 and not to the upper side of the outlet manifold block 180 or the stop plate 178. The outlet chamber 182 includes a support omme 177 which is milled in the stop plate 178. The mutual adjustment between the inlet manifold block 160 and the combination of the outlet manifold block 180 and the locking plate 178 can be adjusted with bolts 183 and 185.

During operation, an effective high-pressure fluid is advanced to the inlet chamber 162 where it is forced to flow through a first, closed channel defined by the grooves 166 in the flange 164 and on the side of the outlet manifold block 180 that faces the flange 164, whereby the fluid is formed into separate jets of the desired cross-sectional shape and size. The ready-made jets will then run across the width of the outlet chamber 182, being controlled exclusively by the grooves 166 in the flange 164. It has been established that as long as the regulating tubes 170 remain inactive, i.e. all the time no control fluid from the tubes 170 can penetrate into the grooves 166 , at a significant pressure, the jets will

of active fluid could cross the width of the outlet chamber 182

in an open channel bounded solely by the grooves 166, without appreciable loss in coherence or change in cross-sectional shape or dimension. After traversing the width of the outlet chamber 182, the jets will strike the edge of the baffle plate 178 and then constrict into a second, completely closed channel, defined by the grooves 166 in the flange 164 and the upper end of the baffle plate 178, immediately before being ejected in the direction of the roller 21. If there is a need for accurate beam formation, there will thus be an opportunity to restore the beam cross-section exactly,

in accordance with the cross-section of this completely closed channel, at extremely short distances from the roller 21, whereby all significant beam scattering is in reality eliminated, and adjustment errors as a result of mutually adjacent tracks 166 not running completely parallel are reduced most possible, etc.

In order to interrupt the fluid jet of high speed that emanates from the grooves 166, it is only necessary that a relatively small amount of air or other control fluid of relatively low pressure is led through the individual regulating tubes 170 to the associated grooves 166 in which the jet is to be interrupted. As can be seen from figure 31, the control fluid, even at a pressure which is much lower than the dynamic pressure in the active fluid (one twentieth or less), will be able to lift the active fluid jet from the groove 166 and thereby cause instability in the jet, so that this one actually breaks down. Although it is shown in figure 31 for the sake of simplicity that the liquid jet is exclusively deflected to the rounded shock pocket 177 in the barrier plate 178, in reality it will be shown to be broken up practically completely by the penetration of a control fluid stream of relatively low pressure as soon as the liquid jet is clear of the walls in the groove 166, and it is assumed that the impact pocket 177 and the blocking plate 178 mainly serve to capture the active mist that occurs during the disintegration.

EXAMPLE 1

A device similar to the one shown schematically according to figure 1 was used, in connection with the specifications below.

Fabric: 100% unbleached, textured polyester silk with a fabric weight of 73.3 g/m<2>. The warp threads consisted of false twisted textured polyester 1/70/47 Dacron 56T, and the weft threads of false twisted textured polyester 1/70/34 Dacron 92T. The weave was a 2x1 twill with weft number 88 and warp number 92. The fabric was dyed with a mixture of basic and disperse dyes to produce a cross dye effect.

Nozzle diameter: 0.43 2 mm.

Fluid: water with a pressure of 105 kg/cm2. Pattern standard: 20 lines per empty.

Pattern data sources: EPROM in connection with suitable electronics of conventional type.

Fluid jet control: The shown device according to Figures 20 and 21 including an electric solenoid for

operation of the pressure piston 120.

Roll: fixed, smooth aluminium, rotating at a peripheral speed of 9.1 m/minute in the same direction as the warp threads of the fabric.

The fabric sample was attached face outwards to the carrier roll which rotated continuously at the specified speed. The jet nozzle was moved automatically along the roller axis at a speed corresponding to the specified pattern standard, using the same device system as shown in Figure 1. The water jet directed at the face of the fabric was interrupted under the action of the solenoid which deflected the rigid tube from which the water jet emanated, depending on transferred data from EPROM. The process produced visually identical patterns or effects on both sides of the fabric, as can be seen from the photomicrographs shown in Figures 33-36. Both the weft threads and the warp threads were displaced. Certain threads, especially the weft threads, were lifted and thereby gave the fabric surface a three-dimensional effect. The mutual thread tension in the fabric was redistributed, so that some threads became relatively tight and others relatively slack, equalized with the untreated fabric. The jet of water seemed to compress some of the threads and separate certain others. The latter effect is easily visible in Figures 35 and 36.

EXAMPLE 2

A device similar to the one shown schematically in Figure 8 was used in connection with the specifications below.

Fabric: Double knit polyester with a face of textured false twisted polyester 1/70/34 56T and a back of false twisted textured polyester 1/70/14 dacron 56T, of a type with 74 rows of stitches and 4 5 stitches and a weight a" 305.5 g/m2. The fabric? front side was fluffy.

Nozzle: circular cross-section, diameter 0.432 mm.

Fluid: Water of pressure 140 kg/cm2.

Pattern standard: 20 lines per empty.

Pattern data source: template with applied pattern outline. Liquid jet control: Stencil with applied pattern outline;

Roller: solid, smooth aluminum rotating at a peripheral speed of 9.1 m/minute.

The fabric sample was attached to the carrier roll with the front facing outwards and then covered with a cylindrical template with the desired pattern outline applied. The carrier roller rotated continuously at the set speed. The jet nozzle was guided automatically along the roll axis at a speed in accordance with the specified standard. The jet, which was directed towards the fabric surface (front side), was interrupted by inserting a plastic template between the nozzle and the fabric surface. The process produced a visually distinguishable effect on both sides of the fabric, as can be seen from the photomicrographs in Figures 37 and 38. The treatment reduced the pole height, as the free ends were bent over and downwards towards the base or substrate. A clear sculpting effect was produced in two levels, and a marked difference in reflectivity between the treated and untreated surface sections. Significant penetration of pile yarn into or through the substrate was not observed on the reverse side of the treated fabric.

EXAMPLE 3

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception: Fabric: knitted, 100% polyester fleece with front side consisting of 100/54 dacron T56 and back side consisting of 70/34 dacron T57 polyester. The fabric was composed of 47 rows of stitches and 27.5 stitches and had a total weight of 468.4 g/m2.

Fluid: Water of pressure 168 kg/cm2.

Pattern standard: 16 lines per empty.

The water jet was directed towards the front of the fabric, i.e. towards

polar side. In the fabric zones that were hit by the liquid jet, the pile was reversed, i.e. the free piles had been driven through the substrate material and protruded outwards from the back of the fabric. In the treated zones on the front of the fabric, and exclusively in these, the under threads were clearly visible. The effect is clearly evident from the photomicrographs in Figures 39-42.

EXAMPLE 4

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: Polyester/cotton poplin 65/35 with warp consisting of 25/1 polyester/cotton and weft consisting of 25/1 polyester/cotton, weft number 52 and warp number 102, and a weight of 152.7 g/m2.

The fabric was cross-dyed with blue polyester and white cotton.

Fluid: Water of pressure 154 kg/cm2.

In this case, the entire fabric surface was treated in a series of closely spaced lines, except for a small control area. The water jet was directed over the fabric in the warp direction. The effect produced on the fabric surface, both front and back, is evident

of figures 43-45.

On the weft side of the fabric, the water jet seemed to have separated the threads. Fibers with free ends were lifted and tangled to a lesser extent. A significant number of the free ends were driven through the fabric and appeared as raised fibers on the back of the fabric. Some damage to cotton fibers was observed. Where the fabric was hit by the beam, the threads were displaced sideways.

EXAMPLE 5

The processes according to example 1 were repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: Knitted 100% polyester with backside consisting of flat polyester 1/70/34 dacron T26 and front side consisting of flat polyester 40/8 dacron T55 and composed of 28 stitch bars and 73 rows of stitches, with a weight of 112.0 g/m2. Fluid; water of pressure 168 kg/cm2.

Pattern standard: 16 lines per empty.

There was a lateral displacement of the stitch bars on the front side of the fabric, as can be seen from figures 46-47. In untreated zones, the fibers consisting of yarn were largely parallel, which was not the case in the treated zones. The overlying yarn threads were also lifted and individual fibers dispersed to a significant extent.

EXAMPLE 6

The processes according to example 1 were repeated, with the following exception.

Fabric: 100% polyester satin with warp consisting of false twisted textured polyester 2/150/68 dacron 56T, weft consisting of false twisted textured polyester 1/135/54 dacron 693T, weft number 90, warp number 90, weight 206.4 g/m2 and a weave with 1x4 satin weft.

Fluid: water of pressure 168 kg/cm2.

The water jet was directed at the back of the fabric. The roll rotated in the opposite direction to the weft direction. The effect of the pattern string can be seen from the photomicrographs in Figures 48-51. A Jacquard-like patterning effect was created. The front of the fabric shows that although the water jet has spread both the warp threads and the weft threads, the main effect has been a lifting and spreading of the weft threads and fibres. On the reverse side (figure 51), individual fibers were displaced and separated to varying degrees, while the degree of thread creep was changed in local zones.

EXAMPLE 7

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: 100% polyester satin with warp consisting of untextured polyester 1/75/34 dacron T56, weft consisting of textured polyester 1/150/34 dacron 56T, cover number 60, varD number 160, a final weight of 101.8 g /m2 and a weave of 4x1 satin.

Fluid: Water of pressure: 168 kg/cm2.

The water jet was directed towards the front of the fabric. The direction of rotation of the roll corresponded to the direction of warp. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in figures 52-54. On the front side of the fabric, an almost lace-like displacement of warp threads occurred. Spreading of weft threads was only observed to a small extent, but weft thread bundles were opened to a certain extent and thereby somewhat increased in size. The warp threads were lifted. There was also a clear compression of the fabric and thread structure around the zones where the warp threads were displaced. The displacement of the long smearing threads led to a tendency for the fabric's degree of reflection to decrease. An almost similar effect was observed on the reverse side of the fabric, but the absence of long staining threads weakened the effect significantly.

EXAMPLE 8

The process according to example 7 was repeated, except that the fabric according to example 7 was positioned so that the direction of rotation of the roll corresponded to the direction of weaving. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in figures 55 and 56.

Displacement of the weft threads occurred, particularly of the weft threads, which were slightly more displaced vertically than transversely. There was also a compression of the weave and thread structure around the zones where the weft yarn was displaced. The warp threads were opened to a considerable extent. An almost similar but weakened effect was observed on the back of the fabric.

EXAMPLE 9

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: 100% Osnaburg cotton produced in the form of black cloth, by coating first with acrylic foam containing Ti02, then with acrylic foam containing carbon black and finally with acrylic foam containing Ti02-

Fluidum: water of pressure 168 kg/cm2, which was directed at the front of the fabric.

As can be seen from the photomicrographs in Figures 57-59, the white coating was removed by the water jet, whereby the underlying black coating became visible and formed a pattern of extreme contrast. It should be noted that there was some thread displacement in the substrate.

EXAMPLE 10

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

A fluffy fabric of unknown fiber content and composition was used.

Fluid: Water of pressure 168 kg/cm2.

The water jet was directed towards the front of the fabric. The direction of rotation of the roller corresponded to the warp direction of the fabric. The water jet was directed at the front of the fluffed fabric. A significant part of the short pile was lost while the other, significant part of the pole wires was laid down and further parts of the pole wires were bent over and driven through the substrate to the back. Seen from the back of the fabric, the substrate showed an opening and compression of its own threads as well as expansion and compression of the tissue structure. On the front side of the fabric, fibers that originally ran largely parallel before the treatment were brought out of position to a significant extent after the treatment, and the substrate fabric was visible on

many places. The extent of the exposed substrate proved to be proportional to the speed of the water jet used during the treatment. See figure 59-61.

EXAMPLE 11

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: 100% polyester with warp consisting of false twisted textured polyester 1/70/47 56T, weft consisting of false twisted textured polyester 1/70/34 dacron 92T, with weft number 88, warp number 92, a final weight of 122, 2 g/m2 (width 160 cm) and with lxl plain weave. The fabric was cross-dyed.

Fluid; Water from pressure approx. 105 kg/cm2.

The water jet was directed towards the front of the fabric, and the roller's direction of rotation corresponded to the warp direction. The back side of the fabric was treated in a similar way during a subsequent step. The beam diameter was 0.20 mm, and the nozzle was located approx. 3.2 mm from the fabric surface. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in figures 62-65. As can be seen, the warp threads were separated and somewhat offset and slanting. A similar effect was observed on the reverse side of the fabric. The treatment resulted in both a reflected and transmitted light effect (see figures 63 and 64).

EXAMPLE 12

The fabric of Example 11 was treated as in Example 11, except that the nozzle diameter was 0.432 mm. The produced patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in figures 66-69. Thread displacement has caused a break in the uniform pattern of light and dark threads. It has generally been established that if a fabric has a relatively tightly woven warp, the liquid jet will tend to displace the weft yarns, and vice versa. It should be noted that the photomicrographs taken using respectively reflected and transmitted light (ie figures 67 and 68) show that both reflected and transmitted light effects occurred. Although this effect could be discerned in the substance according to example 11, it was considerably more marked in this example.

EXAMPLE 13

The processes according to example 1 were repeated with the following

exceptionalism.

Fabric: 100% twill cotton fabric with a weight of 434.4 g/m2. The warp threads were dyed dark blue and the weft threads white. The blue warp threads were not dyed through, but only color applied near the outer sides of the thread, i.e. applied color ring or color coating. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in Figures 70-72. Fibers from the outer layer of the warp threads, and parts of these fibers were driven into the fabric, whereby something was shifted to the back of the fabric and a significant part was left on the fabric surface. There was both unraveling and separation of the treated threads, which thereby increased in size.

EXAMPLE 14

The processes according to example 1 were repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: 2x1 twill fabric with warp number 84 and weft number 46. The warp threads consisted of 14/1 polyester/cotton 65/35 and

the weft threads of 14/1 polyester/cotton 65/35. The fabric is piled on the back and has a weight of 231.8 g/m2. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in figures 73-76. The fabric shows a two-tone effect. Most of the fibers that form the pile on the front side of the fabric have been pushed into the substrate. A significant part of many of the fibers that form the fluff has been pushed through the substrate and forms a fluff-like surface on the back of the fabric. The path of the water jet that was directed at the fabric is visible on both the front and back of the fabric. There is little change in light transmission but a significant change in light reflection between the treated and untreated surface areas.

EXAMPLE 15

The processes according to example 1 were repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: 100% spun polyester, jersey knit with a weight of 169.7 g/cm2.

Pattern standard: approx. 16 lines per empty.

The water jet was directed towards the front of the fabric. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in figures 77-80. As can be seen, the stitches have been applied to a multi-level effect by creating largely U-shaped grooves that form corresponding ridges on the other side of the fabric. Figures 78 and 79 show a compression of the knitting structure in the zone by the grooves. Thread swelling and spreading was observed in the treated zone. Fiber lifting occurred to a considerable extent on the back of the fabric (see figure 80).

EXAMPLE 16

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: 2x1 twill of 65/3 5 polyester/cotton with warp and weft of 14/1 thread with warp number 107 and weft number 48 in a lxl weave and with a weight of 278.6 g/m2. Pattern standard: 5 parallel "lines" or ray tracks with a mutual distance of approx. 1.7 mm and arranged in groups with a mutual distance of approx. 9.4 mm.

Nozzle diameter: 0.305 mm.

Fludium: Water of pressure 140 kg/m2.

Roll: peripheral speed 4.6 m/minute.

From four separate nozzles in a row, the water jets were directed at the front of the fabric. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in Figures 81-84. As can be seen, there has been a compression of the fabric structure in both the warp and weft direction, with consequent buckling or wrinkling of the untreated fabric between mutually adjacent groups of ray paths. This buckling or wrinkling can be removed by drying the wet fabric under moderate tension. Each individual beam has caused separation of mutually adjacent warp threads, and a significant transfer of pile fibers along the beam paths from the front of the fabric to the back.

EXAMPLE 17

The process according to example 1 was repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: Sandy twill of 65/35 polyester/cotton with warp and weft of 14/1 thread with warp number 85 and weft number 54 in a 3x1 weave, with a weight of 249.1 g/m2.

Nozzle diameter: 0.508 mm.

Fluid; water of pressure 175 kg/cm2.

The water jet was directed towards the front of the fabric. The resulting material is shown in the photomicrographs in Figures 85-87. As can be seen, the threads are raised in the same zones on the front and back of the fabric, which creates ridges on exactly opposite sides of the fabric, giving it a slubby appearance. Thread opening and swelling occurred in the treated zones. Lo fibers were assumed to be produced in the surface and moved along the treated zones. The majority of the pile fibers thus produced were pushed through the fabric to project outwards from the back of this directly opposite the treated zones.

EXAMPLE 18

The processes according to example 17 were repeated with the following exception.

Fabric: lxl plain weave of 65/3 5 polyester/cotton with warp of 25/1 polyester/cotton and weft of 25/1 polyester/cotton, with warp number 98 and weft number 56 and a weight of 167.0 g/m2.

Fluid jet control: The device shown according to Figure 29. A water pressure of 175 kg/cm2 was maintained,

the control fluid was air with a pressure of 0.14-5.95 kg/cm2 depending on pattern information transmitted from the outside.

The fabric was placed approx. 9.40 mm from the face of the flange 164. The roller had a peripheral speed of 4.6 m/second. The produced, patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs

in figure 88-91. As can be seen, mutually adjacent warp threads are separated, and the treated threads have increased somewhat in size. Lofibres are assumed to be produced in the surface and moved along the treated zones. The majority of these pile fibers are pushed through the fabric, to project outwards from the back of this directly opposite the treated zones.

EXAMPLE 19

The processes according to example 1 were repeated with the following

end exception.

Substance: The substance according to examples 11 and 12 was used. Fluid jet control: The device shown in figures 11 - 13 was used using an air cylinder to operate the pressure piston 60. The tongue was made of stainless steel sheet with a thickness of 0.076 mm. The deflection took place with the help of a deflector plate which was placed approx.

12.70 mm from the water jet outlet. The deflector plate was provided with a hole with a diameter of approx. 1.27 mm, through which the undeflected beam could pass to strike the fabric. The tongue was moved by a miniature air cylinder marketed by Tomita Company, Limited, Tokyo, Japan under the designation Model No. 1C-0.10-NFS-0-197. The air cylinder piston was located at a distance of approx. 0.76 mm from the tongue. The air cylinder was in turn controlled by an air valve marketed by the Lee Company, Westbrook, Connecticut under the designation Model No. LFAX0460900AG. An air pressure of 4.2 kg/cm<2> was maintained. Used in conjunction with a source of high-pressure water (105 kg/cm<2>), a high-velocity water jet was directed at the textile substrate in accordance with pattern data from an EPROM with associated electronics. The substance was separated approx. 19.05 mm from the starting point of the water jet, and the roller to which the fabric was attached rotated at a peripheral speed of approx. 10 cm/second. The resulting patterned fabric is shown in the photomicrographs in Figures 93 - 94. Thread displacement caused an interruption in the uniform pattern of light and dark threads, with both reflected and transmitted light effects. Upon careful examination, the substance effect proved to be largely the same as that obtained in example 12 and shown in figures 66 - 69.

Claims (6)

1. Method for treating a textile fabric (25) which consists of largely continuous threads which are intertwined in a repeated pattern, where the fabric is placed against a support part (20), and where in an open first channel (166) at least one treatment liquid jet that has a minimum cross-section smaller than the smallest desired pattern detail on the surface of the fabric, for displacement of the threads without significant entanglement of these, as well as interruption and restoration of contact between the jet and the surface by directing a transverse control fluid jet into the treatment jet as a reaction to electrically encoded pattern information for selective displacement of yarns in the fabric, characterized by the treatment jet being emitted by a dynamic maximum pressure greater than 21 kp/cm<2> and that the treatment jet is lifted by means of the transverse jet into an outlet chamber (182) with a shock pocket (177) to deflect the treatment jet and place it in the first channel (166) opposite the transverse flow between first and second passages in the first channel (166). 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the cross-flow comprises a gas of sufficient pressure to interrupt the flow of the treatment liquid jet and cause the treatment jet to spread. 3. Apparatus for treating a textile fabric (25) consisting of substantially continuous threads interlaced in a repeating pattern, comprising: a support member (20) for supporting the fabric, at least one open first channel (166) for directing a treatment fluid jet with a minimum cross-section smaller than the minimum desired pattern detail at the surface of the fabric and to displace the threads without significant entanglement thereof, as well as at least one second channel (170) to direct a control fluid into the treatment jet to interrupt and restore contact between the jet and the surface in response to electrically encoded pattern information and selectively displace the threads in the fabric, characterized in that the treatment liquid flow is arranged to flow out of the first channel (166) at a dynamic maximum pressure greater than 21 kp/cm<2>, and that the second channel (170) opens into an outlet chamber (182) which is arranged between a first and a second closed passage in the first channel (166), the outlet chamber (182) being designed with a shock pocket (177) for deflection of the treatment jet. 4. Apparatus according to claim 3, characterized in that the outlet chamber (182) is shared with a majority of the first and second channels (166, 170). 5. Apparatus according to claim 4, characterized in that a number of first passages are delimited between grooves (166) in an inlet manifold (160) and a contact surface on an outlet manifold (180), that a number of second passages are delimited between the grooves (166) in the inlet manifold and a contact surface on a barrier plate (17 8), and that the outlet chamber (182) is delimited between the inlet manifold (160) and the outlet manifold (180) and the barrier plate (178). 6. Apparatus according to claim 5, characterized in that the impact pocket (177) is formed in the locking plate (178).