MXPA99008348A - Anti-wrinkling composition comprising an association of tensioning polymers of synthetic and / or natural origin and of dendriti polyesters - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to anti-wrinkle composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the association of a dispersion of a film-forming polymer system containing at least one polymer of natural and / or synthetic origin and capable of forming a film permeable to the water vapor, which has a Young's modulus that ranges between 10-8 and 10-10 N / m2 and that produces, after application at a concentration of 7% in water and then dried, a shrinkage of the upper isolated stratum corneum 1% at a temperature of 30 ° C and for a relative humidity of 40%, and a polymer dendritic of the polyester type of terminal hydroxyl functions

Description

ANTI-WRINKLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING ONE ASSOCIATION OF TENSIONING POLYMERS OF SYNTHETIC AND / OR NATURAL ORIGIN AND OF DENTRITIC POLYESTERS.

Field of the Invention The invention relates to cosmetic or anti-wrinkle dermatological compositions comprising polymers of "tensor" effect associated with dendritic polyesters, to a cosmetic treatment method using these compositions as well as to the use of the association of a polymeric fumaric system with a "tensor" effect and a dendritic polyester for manufacturing cosmetic or dermatological compositions intended to diminish and / or make disappear wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin by a tensor effect. The aging process of the skin is accompanied by a progressive modification of the structure and cutaneous functions. The main clinical signs of skin aging are the appearance of wrinkles and small wrinkles that increase with age.

REF .: 31284 Background of the Invention It is known to remedy these signs of aging using cosmetic or dermatological compositions knowing active principles such as the α-hydroxy acids, the β-hydroxy acids and the retinoids. These molecules act on wrinkles by eliminating dead cells and accelerating the cell renewal process. However, the visible effect of these compositions only occurs after a certain time of application, ranging from a few days or several weeks. One proposal to solve this problem has been to use agents called "tensors" that, due to a tension effect of the surface layer of the skin, are able to smooth the skin, decreasing the number and depth of wrinkles and small wrinkles and making disappear signs of fatigue, and this instantly. These "tensile agents" are polymers of natural or synthetic origin capable of forming a film that causes the retraction of the stratum corneum, the superficial corneal layer of the epidermis.

The cosmetic or dermatological use of such polymeric systems to attenuate the effects of skin aging is described in patent applications FR-2,758,083 and FR-2,758,084. However, these polymeric tensioning systems, although very effective and fast, sometimes cause an impression of discomfort in some users, particularly those with delicate skin. These tensioning agents in fact form a film that is too rigid and not very flexible on the skin. The problem has therefore been raised of trying to obtain a significant tensile effect by using smaller amounts of tensile polymers. The applicant has surprisingly discovered that by associating dendritic polyesters with hydroxyl end groups which, by themselves, do not have any tensor power of the epidermis, with the known polymeric tension systems, it was possible to significantly reinforce the tensor effect of the latter .

Description of the invention The subject of the present invention is therefore an anti-wrinkle cosmetic or dermatological composition including a polymeric fumaric system containing at least one "tensile" effect polymer, of natural and / or synthetic origin, and a dendritic polyester with terminal hydroxyl groups. Another object of the invention is a method for the non-therapeutic treatment of the skin with the anti-wrinkle cosmetic compositions indicated above, as well as the use of the combination of a polymeric fumaric system with a "tensor" effect and a dendritic polyester for manufacturing cosmetic or dermatological compositions intended to diminish and / or eliminate wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin. Other objects will appear with the reading of the description and the examples that follow. The cosmetic effect of the compositions of the present invention is based on their "tensor" power of the skin. This "tensor" power is defined according to the present invention as the capacity of a homogeneous film formed by the stratum corneum isolated, in causing a retraction of at least 1% and preferably at least 1.3% of it at a temperature of 30 ° C. and for a relative humidity of 40%. According to the present invention, this film is formed by application and drying of an aqueous dispersion containing 7% of said polymeric fumaric system. To determine the tensor effect, the length of the stratum corneum sample is measured before the treatment, ie after the application of the polymer. The tensor effect is characterized by the decrease in the length of the sample after treatment, in relation to the initial length of the sample before treatment, according to the equation: tensor effect = 100 x lj, - 10% Li being the length after the treatment and the length before the treatment. The length of the sample is measured with the "Miniature Tensile Tester MTT610" device. It is called "fumógeno" polymer according to the present invention, to any polymer or polymeric system able to form, after the application on a glass plate and drying, a continuous film that does not form flakes or cracks. The film formed by the polymeric tensor system contained in the anti-wrinkle compositions of the present invention must have a modulus of elasticity (Young's modulus determined by micro- or nano-cut-outs instrumented; ASTM E384-89) which ranges from 108 to 1010 N / m2 and preferably 6.5 to 9.109 N / m2. The values of the modulus of elasticity included in this range are 10 to 100 times higher than those of the stratum corneum. A modulus of elasticity of this type thus allows the polymer film to perfectly follow the deformations of the skin which leads both to an effective persistence and a good wearing comfort due to the absence of an impression of excessive tightness. The film formed on the epidermis must, on the other hand, be permeable to water vapor so as not to hinder skin transpiration. The permeability of the film was evaluated by the measurement of the Insensitive Perte in Eau (PIE) of the stratum corneum defatted and treated by the polymer. When the film is sufficiently permeable to water vapor, the PIE does not change. The measurement of the PIE is done in a classical way with the help of an evaporation meter (Servomed) that allows a quantitative determination of the evaporation of water, that is to say the transport of water by diffusion on a stratum corneum sample that seals a capsule cylindrical containing water, placing the whole in a chamber at controlled temperature and relative humidity. Sensors allow the partial pressure of water vapor to be measured at two points located at different distances from the sample. This determines the partial pressure gradient of water vapor between the two points, and therefore the evaporation percentage according to Fick's law. The smoke-containing tensile polymers that meet the elasticity, shrinkage and water vapor permeability criteria described above are polymers of natural origin and / or of synthetic origin. Among the natural polymers with a tensor effect, mention may be made of polymers of vegetable origin, polymers derived from faeces, egg proteins, latexes of natural origin and polysaccharides. Polymers of vegetable origin are, for example, protein extracts of cereals, legumes and oleaginous crops such as corn, rye, candelabra, buckwheat, sesame, broccoli, peas, beans, lentils, soy and lupine. Suitable proteins, for example, are the soybean protein extract sold by the ISD Company under the name PROFAM 972 or by the LSN Societies under the name ELESERYL, or the protein fraction of the white lupine. As polymers derived from the phanero, any polymer from the hairs, nails, shells of insects or crustaceans, hair, feathers, beaks, hooves and crests of animals can be used. Mention may be made, for example, of chitin and its derivatives, particularly chitosan, such as chitosan derivatives, such as hydroxypropylchiphenyl, the succinylated derivative of chitosan, chitosan lactate, chitosan glutamate or carboxymethylchitosan succinamide, or derivatives thereof. of keratin such as keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins. Egg protein can be cited as egg protein. Natural latexes are, for example, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dams, elemies, copals, cellulose derivatives and mixtures of these polymers. The polysaccharides are, for example, guar gum, optionally modified by anionic groups such as carboxylate or phosphate, xanthan gum, alginates. The fume-inducing polymeric polymers of synthetic origin are in the form of a latex or a pseudolatex. A latex is an aqueous suspension of polymer particles obtained by radical polymerization or by polycondensation according to the well-known technique of emulsion polymerization. Pseudo-latex is understood as an aqueous dispersion of synthetic polymers obtained not by emulsion polymerization but by dispersion in water of polymers previously obtained according to another synthesis technique.

In both cases, the dispersions are generally stabilized by charges supported by the polymer. The latex or pseudolatex particles preferably have a dimension ranging between 10 and 400 nm, preferably between 20 and 350 nm. The synthetic polymers which form the latex or pseudolatex particles are, for example, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyacrylates, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyurethane-polyesters, polyurethane-polyethers, polyureas. The polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea copolymer, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic, comprising - at least one linear or branched and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic aliphatic polyester sequence and / or, - at least one aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyether sequence and / or at least one silicone sequence, substituted or not, linear or branched, and / or at least one sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

The polyurethanes can also be obtained from linear or branched polyesters, or from alkyd resins comprising mobile hydrogen atoms which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydrogen, diamine or hydroxyamine) which also comprises either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or else a tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group. Mention may also be made of synthetic polymers forming latex or pseudolatex, polyesters, poly (ester amide), fatty chain polyesters, polyamides and epoxiester resins. Mention may be made, as anionic comonomers, of synthesizing negatively charged polyurethanes, for example, dimethylolpropionic acid, trimellitic acid or anhydride, sodium pentane-diol-3-sulfonate or sodium 1,3-dicarboxybenzene-5-sulfonate.

These polymers are in particular those described in EP-A-648,485.

The latex or pseudolatex can also be made of homopolymers or acrylic copolymers, or else by polymers based on isophthalic acid. These polymeric fuming polymers of synthetic origin are sold, for example, under the names SANCURE 2060 (polyester-polyurethane, SANCURE 2255 (polyester-polyurethane), SANCURE 815 (polyester-polyurethane), SANCURE 878 (polyether-polyurethane) and SANCURE 861 (polyether-polyurethane) by the SANNCOR Company, under the names NEOREZ R974 (polyester-polyurethane, NEOREZ R981 (polyester-polyurethane), NEOREZ R970 (polyether-polyurethane) by the ICI Company, and under the name NEOCRYL XK-90 (dispersion of an acrylic copolymer) by the ZENECA Company. Among the set of tension polymers of natural and synthetic origin presented above, polymers comprising free hydroxyl groups or anionic groups will preferably be used in the present invention.

The polymeric fumaric system can be formed by a mixture of several tensile polymers of natural origin and / or of synthetic origin described above. It can also contain one or more plasticizers selected (s) in order to obtain the desired mechanical characteristics. The plasticizing agent can be chosen from among all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling this function. Mention may be made, for example, of lower alcohols (ethanol, propanol, butanol), glycols and derivatives of glycols, such as diethylene glycol ethyl or methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl or butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl or phenyl ether, ethyl or butyl ether of -dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol butyl or methyl ether; glycerol esters, acid esters such as citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates; oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylated oils, for example oxyethylenated castor oil, and oxyethylated silicone oils; water-soluble polymers or in aqueous dispersion with a vitreous transition temperature of less than 25 ° C, preferably below 15 ° C. The amount of plasticizer is chosen by the person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, in order to obtain a polymeric system that leads to a film having the desired mechanical properties, maintaining acceptable cosmetic properties in the composition. In the anti-wrinkle compositions of the present invention, this fuming polymer system with a tensor effect, comprising one or more polymers of natural and / or synthetic origin and optionally a plasticizing agent, and which occur in the form of an aqueous dispersion, is associated with polyesters of a particular type, namely polyesters having a branched structure called "dendritic" Dendritic polymers or dendrimers (from the Greek dendron = tree) are polymeric "arborescent" molecules, that is to say very branched invented by D.A. Tomalia and his team at the beginning of the 1990s (Donald A. Tomalia et al., Angewandte Chemie, Int.Engl. Ed., Vol 29, n ° 2, pages 138 - 175). These are molecular structures built around a generally polyvalent central unit. Around this central unit are chained, in concentric layers and according to a perfectly determined structure, branched chain elongation units that give rise to symmetric, monodispersed macromolecules having a well-defined chemical and stereochemical structure. The dendritic polymers used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention are dendrimers having the chemical structure of a polyester and which are terminated by hydroxyl groups. The structure and preparation of these polymers is described in patent application WO-A-93/17060. More precisely, the dendritic polymers used in the compositions of the present invention can be defined as being highly branched macromolecules of the polyester type, constituted. - by a central unit derived from an initiator compound carrying one or more hydroxyl functions (a), by chain elongation units derived from a chain elongation molecule carrying a carboxyl function (b) and at least two hydroxyl functions ( c), each of the hydroxyl functions (a) of the central molecule being the starting point of a polycondensation reaction (by esterification) that begins with the reaction of the hydroxyl functions (a) of the central molecule with the carboxyl functions (b) of the chain elongation molecules, then it is continued by reaction of the carboxyl functions (b) with the hydroxyl functions (c) of the chain elongation molecules. The initiator compound bearing one or more hydroxyl functions and forming the central unit around the ucal will be constructed. The dendritic structure is a mono-, di- or polyhydroxy compound. It is generally chosen from: (a) a monofunctional alcohol, (b) an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diol, (c) a triol, (d) a tetrol, (e) a sugar alcohol, (f) the anhydro-enea -heptitol or dipentaerythritol, (g) an a-alkylglycoside, (h) a polyalkoxylated polymer obtained by polyalkoxylation of one of the alcohols (a) to (g), with a molar mass of at most 8000. Mention may be made of Title of examples of preferred initiator compounds used to prepare the dendritic polyesters used in the present invention are ditrimetylolpropane, ditrimethylolethane, dipentaerythritol, pentaerythritol, alkoxylated pentaerythritol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, an alkoxylated trimethylolpropane, glycerol, neopentyl glycol, dimethylolpropane or 1,3-dioxane-5,5-dimethanol. They are reacted on these hydroxylated initiator compounds that form the central unit of the future dendrimer, molecules called chain elongation molecules which are diol-monoacid type compounds selected from monocarboxylic acids comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, and - the acids monocarboxylates comprising at least two hydroxyl functions of which one or more carry a hydroxyalkyl substituent. Preferred examples of such compounds are dimethylolpropionic acid, a, a-bis (hydroxymethyl) -butyric acid, a, a, a-tris (idroxymethyl) -acetic acid, a, a-bis (hydroxymethyl) -valeric acid , the acid a, a-bis (hydroxy) -propionic and 3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the initiator compound is chosen from ditrimethylolpropane, trimethylolpropane, an ethoxylated pentaerythritol, pentaerythritol or glycerol, and the chain elongation molecule is dimethylolpropionic acid. The polyester-type dendritic polymers with terminal hydroxyl functions used in the compositions of the present invention are further characterized by the fact that a part of the terminal hydroxyl functions of the polyester-type dendritic polymer can carry substituents derived from at least one polypeptide agent. chain termination. A polymer without derivative substituents is preferably used. Nevertheless, when a part of the terminal hydroxyl functions carries a derivative substituent, the fraction of these terminal hydroxyl functions carrying a chain terminating unit are generally between 1 and 90% by mol, preferably between 10 and 50% by mol in relation to the total number of terminal hydroxyl functions. The suitable choice of an appropriate chain termination agent allows the physical-chemical properties of the dendritic polyesters used in the compositions of the present invention to be modified at will. The said chain terminating agent can be chosen from a wide variety of compounds capable of forming covalent bonds with the terminal hydroxyl functions. These compounds include in particular i) a saturated monocarboxylic acid or a saturated fatty acid or an anhydride of said compound, ii) an unsaturated fatty acid, iii) an unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, iv) a diisocyanate or an oligomer of said compound, v) an addition product prepared from a compound according to iv), vi) a dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid or an anhydride of said compound, vii) an addition product prepared from a compound according to vi), viii) an aromatic monocarboxylic acid, ix) a epihalogenhydrin, x) a glycidyl ester of a monocarboxylic acid or a fatty acid comprising from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, xi) an epoxide of an unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferred chain termination compounds are in particular lauric acid, flaxseed fatty acids, soybean fatty acids, tallow fatty acids, dehydrogenated castor oil fatty acids, capric acid, caprylic acid , the diallyl ether maleate of tri et ilolpropane, methacrylic acid and acrylic acid.

The polyester-type dendritic polymers with terminal hydroxyl functions and optionally carrying chain termination groups are known and are commercially available from the company PERSTORP. The particularly preferred polymers used in the present invention are a dendritic polyester obtained by polycondensation of dimethylolpropionic acid over trimethylolpropane, free of chain terminating agents sold under the name BOLTORN H40 TMP CORE; a dentritic polyester obtained by polycondensation of dimethylolpropionic acid on polyoxyethylene pentaerythritol (5 units of EO for each hydroxyl function), of which 50% of the hydroxyl functions are esterified by capric / caprylic acid (technical name HBP 3G esterified); a dendritic polyester obtained by polycondensation of dimethylolpropionic acid on polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol (5 units of EO for each hydroxyl function), free of chain terminating agent (technical name HBP Polyol 3G), all of these polymers being products of the PERSTORP Company.

The concentration of the dendritic polymer in relation to the total composition is within the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight. The polymeric fumaric system is present in a proportion of 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 30% by weight, expressed as active material in relation to the total composition.

The amounts of dendritic polymer and tensile polymers will be chosen so that the weight ratio of the dendritic polymer to the polymeric fumaric system is in the range from 1/2 to 1/100, preferably 1/10 to 1/50 The anti-wrinkle compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetic active ingredients selected from anti-free radical agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, proteins other than those constituting the tensor system, ceramides, hydroxy acids, the β-hydroxy acids and the retinoids. They may also contain cosmetic adjuvants customary in cosmetics and dermatology. These adjuvants are, for example, solvents, pH regulating agents, anti-oxidants, preserving agents, pigments and dyes, fillers, emollients, anti-foaming agents, fatty substances such as oils or vegetable waxes. or animals, silicones, perfumes, surfactants, plasticizers, thickener or gelling polymers, sunscreens and softness agents (allantoin, PVM / MA decadiene or copolymer). As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of oils of vegetable origin, mineral oils (petroleum jelly), synthetic oils, silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils. The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example, fatty acids, the fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol) and the waxes. Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to choose this or these possible complementary compounds and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically related to the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention are not, or substantially, altered by the the additions considered. The anti-wrinkle compositions can be presented in any form that allows the formation of a homogeneous film having the desired cosmetic tensing effect. It is for example an emulsion such as a cream or a milk, a gel, a lotion, a vesicular dispersion, a serum, a paste or a solid stick. The present invention also relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment of the skin consisting of applying the compositions described above in a thin layer on the skin of the face, the neck and / or the neckline. The invention also relates to the use of an association of a dispersion of a polymeric fumaric system containing at least one polymer of natural and / or synthetic origin and capable of forming a film permeable to water vapor, having a Young's modulus ranges from 108 to 1010 N / m2 and produces, after application at a concentration of 7% in water and then dried, a shrinkage of the isolated stratum corneum of more than 1% at a temperature of 30 ° C and for a relative humidity 40%, and a polyester type dendritic polymer of terminal hydroxyl functions, to prepare a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended to diminish and / or make disappear the wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples Example 1 Anti-wrinkle cream Cetyl alcohol 1.5% petrolatum oil 5% cyclomethicone 7% sorbitan tristearate (surfactant) 1.3% PEG 40 stearate (surfactant) 2.7% soy protein (Eleseryl ® marketed by LSN) 3% Sancure 2060 waterborne urethane (27% active material in water) 10% BOLTORN H 40 TMP 0.2% Marketed by PERSTORP ethyl alcohol 10% perfumes, preservatives c. s. Csp 100% demineralized water EXAMPLE 2 Anti-wrinkle cream Cetyl alcohol 1.5% petrolatum oil 5% cyclomethicone 7% sorbitan tristearate (surfactant) 1,3 t stearate of PEG 40 (surfactant) 2.7% white lupine protein fraction ( 0.7% active material) 30% Sancure 815 (35% active material in water) 12% BOLTORN H 40 TMP 0.2% marketed by PERSTORP ethyl alcohol 10% perfumes, preservatives _ c.s. Csp 100% demineralized water Example 3 Polyacrylamide Serum / C? 3-C? 4, Isoparaffine / Laureth-7 (Sepigel? Marketed by SEPPIC) 1% 0.2% xanthan gum PVM / MA decades cross polymer 0.2% (ANTARON ST 06 marketed by ISP, triethanolamine 0.2% SANCURE 815 (35% active material in water) 12% BOLTORNH 40 TMP 0.3% commercialized by PERSTORP ethyl alcohol 10% perfumes, preservatives c.s demineralized water csp 100 It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims (27)

R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S

1. Anti-wrinkle cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of a dispersion of a polymeric fumaric system containing at least one polymer of natural and / or synthetic origin and capable of forming a water permeable film, which has a Young's modulus that ranges between 108 and 1010 N / m2 and which produces, after application at a concentration of 7% in water and then dried, a shrinkage of the isolated stratum corneum superior to the 1% at a temperature of 30 ° C and for a relative humidity of 40%, and a polyester-type dendritic polymer with terminal hydroxyl functions.

2. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymer contained in the said polimeric polymorph system is a polymer of natural origin.

3. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polymer of natural origin is chosen among the polymers. of vegetable origin, polymers from the faeces, egg proteins and latex of natural origin.

4. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the natural latex-type polymer is chosen from the shellac resin, the sandarac gum, the damares, the elemies, the copals, the cellulose derivatives and the mixtures of these polymers.

5. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the polymer from the phantoms is chosen from chitin, chitosan, hydroxypropylchitosan, succinylated chitosan derivative, chitosan iactanc, chitosan glutamate, succinamide of carboxymethyl chitosan, keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins.

6. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the polymer of vegetable origin is chosen from the extracts of cereals, legumes and oleaginous.

7. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the extract is chosen from the extracts of corn, rye, candeal wheat, buckwheat, sesame, mainstay, peas, beans, lentils, soy and lupine.

8. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymer contained in the said polymeric fumaric system is a synthetic polymer that is in the form of a latex or pseudolatex.

9. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the synthetic polymer is selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyacrylate, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyurethane-polyester, polyurethane-polyether, polyureas, homo or acrylic copolymers, sulfonated isophthalic acid polymers and mixtures thereof.

10. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the synthetic and / or natural erecting polymer contained in the said fumaric polymer system comprises free idroxyl groups, anionic groups.

11. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer system also comprises a plastering agent.

12. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dendritic polymer of terminal hydroxyl functions is a highly branched macromolecule of the polyester type, constituted by a central unit derived from an initiator compound bearing one or several hydroxyl functions (a), - by chain elongation units derived from a chain elongation molecule carrying a carboxyl function (b) and at least two hydroxyl functions (c), each of the hydroxyl functions (a) being the central molecule is the starting point of a polycondensation reaction (polyesterification) that begins with the reaction of the hydroxyl functions (a) of the central molecule with the carboxyl functions (b) of the chain elongation molecules, then continues by reaction of the carboxyl functions (b) with the hydroxyl functions (c) of the chain elongation molecules.

13. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the initiator compound bearing one or more hydroxyl functions forming the central unit is chosen from (a) a monofunctional alcohol, (b) an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diol (c) a triol, (d) a tetrol, (e) a sugar alcohol, (f) the anhydro-enea-heptitol or the dipentaerythritol, (g) an a-alkyl glycoside, (h) a polyalkoxylated polymer obtained by polyalcoxylation of one of the alcohols (a) ag) with a molar mass of at most 8000.

14. Anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the initiator compound is chosen from ditrimethylolpropane, ditrimethylolethane, dipentaerythritol, pentaerythritol, an alkoxylated pentaerythritol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, an alkoxylated trimethylolpropane, glycerol , neopent il glycol, dimethylolpropane or 1,3-dioxane-5,5-dimethanol.

15. Anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the chain elongation molecule is chosen from: monocarboxylic acids comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, and monocarboxylic acids comprising at least two hydroxyl functions of which one or more carry a hydroxyalkyl substituent.

16. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the chain elongation molecule is chosen from dimethylolpropionic acid, a, a-bis (idroxymethyl) -butyric acid, a, a, a-tris acid (hydroxymethyl) -acetic, a, a-bis (hydroxymethyl) -valeric acid, a, a-bis (hydroxy) -propionic acid and 3,5-dihydro-xibenzoic acid.

17. Anti-wrinkle composition according to claims 12 to 16, characterized in that the initiator compound is chosen from ditrimethylolpropane, trimethylolpropane, an ethoxylated pentaerythritol, pentaerythritol or glycerol, and the chain elongation molecule is dimethylolpropionic acid .

18. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of claims 12 to 17, characterized in that one. Part of the terminal hydroxyl functions of the polyester type dendritic polymer carries substituents derived from at least one chain terminating agent.

19. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of the dendritic polymer in relation to the total composition is within the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight.

20. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymeric fumaric system is present at a ratio of 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, expressed as active material in relation to the total composition.

21. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the dendritic polymer to the polymeric system is between the range of 1/2 to 1/100, preferably from 1/10 to 1/50.

22. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains one or more cosmetic active ingredients selected from anti-free radical agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, proteins other than polymers tensors, ceramides, a-hydroxy-acids, ß-hydroxy acids and retinoids.

23. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one adjuvant selected from solvents, pH regulating agents, antioxidants, preservatives, pigments and dyes, fillers, emollients, anti-foam agents, vegetable or animal oils or waxes, silicones, perfumes, surfactants, plasticizers, thickeners or gelling agents and sunscreens.

24. Anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion such as a cream or a milk, a gel, a lotion, a vesicular dispersion, a serum, a paste or a solid bar.

25. Non-therapeutic treatment method of the skin that consists of applying an anti-wrinkle composition according to any of the preceding claims on the skin of the face, neck and / or décolleté

26. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24, to diminish and / or eliminate wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin by a tensor effect.

27. Use of an association of a dispersion of a polymeric system of natural and / or synthetic origin and capable of forming a film permeable to water vapor, which has a Young's modulus that ranges between 108 and 1010 N / m2 and which produces, after of the application at a concentration of 7% in water and then drying, a shrinkage of the isolated stratum corneum of more than 1% at a temperature of 30 ° C and a relative humidity of 40%, and - of a polyester-type dendritic polymer of terminal hydroxyl functions, for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended to diminish and / or eliminate wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin.