MXPA97004788A - Use of oligomers as plasticizers of a polymer that formes films in and for the preparation of cosmetic compositions containing this polymer that formes movie, cosmetic compositions and dermatology - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of at least one oligomer selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of monomer (s) with ethylenic unsaturation and the polycondensates, which have a mean molecular weight measured at the apexes of the maximum by steric exclusion chromatography that goes from 400 to 10000 and have a glass transition temperature ranging from -80 to 10 ° C, as a plasticizing agent of a film-forming polymer in or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least this film-forming polymer; The composition does not contain nitrocellulose-type film-forming polymer. The present application also relates to topical formulations containing these plasticizing agents, particularly hair compositions for combing, for the treatment and / or fixation of hair, and make-up compositions

Description

USE OF OLIGOMERS AS PLASTICIZERS OF A POLYMER THAT FORM FILMS IN AND FOR THE PREPARATION OF COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS THAT CONTAIN THIS POLYMER THAT FILM FORM, COSMETIC AND DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITIONS DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the use of certain oligomers as a plasticizing agent of a film-forming polymer, in and for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing at least this polymer forming film, as well as topical formulations containing these plasticizing agents, particularly hair compositions for styling, for the maintenance and / or fixation of hair, and make-up compositions. In cosmetic compositions based on film-forming polymers, in particular hair compositions for combing or maintaining hair, such as spray lacquers, plasticizing agents are generally used in association with film-forming polymers. to decrease the vitreous transition temperature of the latter and to modulate, according to the selected application / mechanical properties of the films resulting from the polymers, such as flexibility. The plasticizers generally used REF: 24967 are selected from usual non-volatile solvents of the film-forming polymer used. They remain trapped in the film-forming polymer deposit after drying. Also known are certain plasticizing polymers of the polyether type of ethylene glycol or of propylene glycol, such as the DOWANOL products of the company DOW CHEMICAL. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered a new family of plasticizing agents for the film forming polymers commonly used in cosmetics, made up of particular oligomers which will be defined below in detail. These oligomers lead to a better efficiency in the plasticization of the film-forming polymers compared to conventional plasticizers. The oligomers according to the invention, when used in styling products based on film-forming polymers such as hair setting lacquers, make it possible in particular to obtain, in very small amounts, a lacquering power equivalent to that obtained with classic plasticizers with higher amounts, while significantly improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, such as detangling and texture after its application.

The oligomers according to the invention also allow, when used in eyelash or eyebrow makeup products such as mascara or mascara or eyeliners, thanks to their remarkable plasticizing properties of the film-forming polymers used. generally in this application, favor the presentation of the deposit, as well as obtain a good flexibility of the deposit in smaller quantities than those usually used with classic plasticizers. The oligomers according to the invention also allow, when used in nail makeup products such as nail varnish, thanks to their remarkable plasticizing properties of the film-forming polymers generally used in this application, to improve the brilliance in smaller quantities than those usually used with classic plasticizers. In addition, contrary to the classic plasticizers, they do not lead to surface migration phenomena, nor to phenomena of loss by evaporation with the passage of time. The main object of the invention consists in the use of at least one particular oligomer, which will be defined below, as plasticizing agent of a film-forming polymer, in and for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing at least this polymer forming movie; these compositions do not contain nitrocellulose type film forming polymer. Another object of the invention consists of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing at least one film-forming polymer and at least one plasticizing agent of the polymer, selected from the particular oligomers that will be defined later. Other objects will appear in light of the description and the examples that follow. By plasticizing agent is meant a polymer that forms a given film, any substance compatible with the polymer, and capable of being combined with or included in the polymer, such that the mixture obtained has a vitreous transition temperature and a lower softening temperature. to those of the polymer that forms film, and thus gives it better flexibility. The oligomers of the invention are characterized essentially by the fact that they are selected from homopolymers or copolymers of monomer (s) with ethylenic unsaturation and the polycondensates, which have a mean molecular weight measured at the apex of the maximum by steric exclusion chromatography. , ranging from 400 to 10000, and having a vitreous transition temperature ranging from -80 to 10 ° C. The average molecular weight, measured at the apex of the maximum by steric exclusion chromatography, varies more particularly from 500 to 5000. Its vitreous transition temperature varies more particularly from -70 to 5 ° C. The oligomers according to the invention, consisting of polymers of at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation are selected, for example, from acrylic, ethacrylic or allylic homopolymers or copolymers. , metal or vinyl. They can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. These monomers with ethylenic unsaturation can be selected in particular from the group consisting of: esters or acrylic or methacrylic amides obtained from aliphatic, linear, branched or cyclic alcohols and / or aromatic alcohols, preferably from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, such as methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, propyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate tert-butyl, tert-butyl acrylamide; - the esters or vinyl, allylic or metallic amides obtained from aliphatic, linear, branched or cyclic alcohols and / or aromatic alcohols, preferably from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate , vinyl benzoate, vinyl tert-butyl benzoate; -olefins such as ethylene, propylene, styrene or substituted styrene; - halogenated or perhalogenated acrylic or vinyl monomers, and more particularly fluorinated or perfluorinated; -his mixtures. Mention may be made, among the anionic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation: monomers comprising at least one acid function, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form, such as monocarboxylic acids such as acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic acids; the carboxylic diacids or acid anhydrides as well as their monoesters or monoamides, such as maleic anhydride in the form of diacid, monoester or monoamide, itaconic acid; monomers comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, in free form or in partially or fully neutralized form, such as vinyl- or styrene sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; monomers comprising at least one phosphoric or phosphonic acid function, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form. These anionic monomers are preferably partially or totally neutralized by a monobasic compound such as a mineral base such as sodium or potassium, or an aminoalcohol, for example taken from the group consisting of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol ( AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (TIPA), monoethanolamine, tri (2'-hyy) 1-propylamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol (AMPD), 2-amino-2 -hyymethyl-1,3-propanediol. Mention may be made, among cationic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation, of: monomers comprising an amine function in free form or partially or totally neutralized, or partially or fully quaternized, such as di (meth) acrylate, ethylaminoethyl, methacrylamide of dimethylaminoethyl, vinylamine, vinylpyridine, diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

These cationic monomers are preferably partially or totally neutralized by a mineral or organic organic acid such as hyhloric, acetic, lactic or glycolic acid, or partially or totally quaternized by an alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl halide or a dialkylsulfate ( dimethyl- or diethyl sulfate). Mention may be made, among amphoteric monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation, of the carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines obtained by partial or total quaternisation of ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising an amine function by sodium salts of carboxylic acid with mobile halide (sodium chloroacetate) or by cyclic sulfones (propan sulfone). Among the nonionic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation, there may be mentioned: - hyyalkyl (meth) acrylates of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 2-hyyethyl (meth) acrylate, 2-hyypropyl (meth) acrylate : acrylates, such as acrylamide, ethacrylamide, dialkyl (meth) acrylamides of 1 to 30 carbon atoms; -N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam; ethylene glycol (meth) acrylates, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol with hyyl end or ether. The oligomers consisting of polymer of at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation can be obtained by conventional radical polymerization processes adapted to obtain small molecular weights. Mention may be made of the polymerization methods in solution, in suspension, in emulsion, by precipitation or in dispersion. To favor the obtaining of small molecular weights, important quantities of transfer agents are preferably used to adjust the molecular weight more easily. Will be cited to this title, telomerization procedures such as those defined in the Encyclopédie "Co prehensive Polymer Science", Vol. 3, pages 135-194, PERGAMON PRESS, 1989. Polycondensate type oligomers according to. invention are selected, for example, from polyesters, polyesters / amides, polyamides, polyurethanes and polyureas or their mixtures. They can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. The polyesters, the polyester / amides, the polyamides can result, for example, from the polycondensation between diols, dicarboxylic acids, aminoalcohols or diamines, and can comprise side fatty chains, preferably saturated. They can also result from the polycondensation on themselves of a compound comprising both a reactive carboxylic acid group and an alcohol reactive group, or both comprise a reactive carboxylic acid group and an amine reactive group. Among the monomers present in the polycondensation medium, the possible presence of carboxylic anhydrides (phthalic anhydride) and of compounds which comprise only a single reactive group, such as monoalcohols, monoamines, monocarboxylic acids, preferably fatty acids, will also be mentioned. Mono- or difunctional polycondensation monomers are aliphatic, linear, branched or cyclic in nature, or aromatic in nature. The polyesters, the polyester / amides, the polyamides are obtained according to the classical methods of polycondensation. in the molten state, in solution or dispersion. A particularly preferred family of oligomers according to the invention consists of polyesters which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: (i) the compounds of formula (1) below: HOOC- (CH2) m-COOH (1) where m is an integer ranging from 2 to 20; - (ii) the compounds of formula (2) below: the mobile acid group is preferably in the ortho, para or meta position, and the benzene ring may comprise other substituents than the sulfonate groups; - (iii) their mixtures, with a diol selected from the group consisting of: - (a) the compounds of formula (3) below: HO- (CH2) x-OH (3) wherein x is an integer ranging from 2 to 20; - (b) the compounds of formula (4) below: wherein P is an aliphatic, linear or branched, cycloaliphatic or aromatic trivalent hydrocarbyl radical, preferably a group - (CH) P-CH- with p > 1, and more particularly the group - (CH2) -CH- and Ri designates a hydrocarbyl side chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms; - (c) the compounds of formula (5) below: HO • CH-CH2OH (5) wherein R2 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and R 4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - (d) the following compound of formula (6): - (e) the compound of formula (7) below: - (f) their mixtures. The cosmetic and dermatological compositions according to the invention thus contain, on a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable support, at least one film-forming polymer and at least one oligomer or telomer as defined above as plasticizing agent of the film-forming polymer, for such applications varied as those found for example in the hair domain, makeup or even skin care, or any other cosmetic domain in which it is desirable or sought use of a substance that forms film. Among the applications preferentially intended by the present invention, there may be mentioned more particularly: the domain of the hair products (washing, care or embellishment of the hair), where the compositions according to the invention can be presented in the form of aerosols, foams, shampoos, compositions after shampooing, lotions or gels for styling or for treatment, lacquers or lotions for forming or marking, or even for setting. - the mastery of make-up products, in particular for the makeup of nails, eyelashes or lips, where the compositions according to the invention can be presented in the form of nail varnish; of mascara or mascara of eyelashes or eyeliners; of lipsticks. -in the domain of skin care products (creams, milks, lotions, masks, serums, solar products). The plasticizing agents according to the invention are preferably used in concentrations of dry materials ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 40%, and more particularly from 10 to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The plasticizing film forming polymers used in the compositions of the invention are those commonly used for the different applications mentioned above. They are selected, for example, from the polymers described in the application. They are selected in particular from those described in applications FR 2,439,798 and FR 2,697,160 and patent FR 9213600. Mention may be made in particular of: vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / tert-butyl benzoate vinyl copolymers described in patent FR 2,439,798; - the copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide such as the product sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF; -the copolymers of N-octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / hydroxypropyl methacrylate / acrylic acid / tert-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name AMPHOMER LV 71 by the company NATIONAL STARCH; - the terpolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER 100P by the company BASF. The concentration in film-forming polymer in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention is generally between 0.1 and 50%, and preferably between 1 and 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. Varies according to the cosmetic or dermatological application considered. The cosmetically acceptable support of the compositions according to the invention preferably consists of water, one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. Among these organic solvents, lower alcohols of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, are used more particularly, particularly in hair products. For nail varnishes or nail care bases, blends of butyl acetate and ethyl acetate are more particularly used. The support can also be composed of fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes. The film-forming polymers according to the invention are dissolved or dispersed in the support of the compositions of the invention. The plasticizing agents according to the invention are dissolved or dispersed in the support of the compositions of the invention. The compositions may also, and of course, contain various adjuvants intended to render it acceptable in a particular cosmetic application. The compositions according to the invention may contain conventional cosmetic additives, selected from fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes, organic solvents, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foam agents before, moisturizing agents, humectants, treatment agents (anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff), antiperspirant, alkalizing agents, UV-A or UV-B or long-wavelength sunscreens, dyes, pigments , perfumes, preservatives, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric organic polymers compatible with the graft copolymers of the invention, and propellants when the compositions are presented in the form of an aerosol. Of course, the person skilled in the art will be careful to select the one or any complementary compounds mentioned above, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the compositions according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered by the additions considered. Another object of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, characterized in that it consists in applying a composition to the latter on the latter. as defined above. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, without thereby presenting a limiting character.

EXAMPLES OF PREPARATION EXAMPLE OF PREPARATION 1 Synthesis of a polyester polystybacate of neopentyl glycol of average molecular weight of 600 and with ends a, vs hydroxyl. Composition of the starting reagents: Dimethylbisbacate 276 g (1.2 M) -2, 2-dimethyl-l, 3-propanediol (also called neopentyl glycol) 274.6 g (2.64 M) -Zinc dihydrate 0.3% by weight / load 1.6 g -1,2-pure dichloroethane 2 1 -Demineralized water 2 1 OPERATING MODE A 500 ml cylindrical reactor, equipped with a nitrogen inlet, a thermometer and a thermometer, is used. a distillation assembly. The reactor is heated by a bath in Wood mixture. 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol (melting point 126-128 ° C) and dimethyl sebacate (melting point 25-28 ° C) previously melted were introduced into the reactor. The mixture was heated from room temperature to 150 ° C in one hour. The reaction medium became clear around 100 ° C. As soon as 150 ° C was reached in the reaction, zinc acetate was then introduced. The synthesis was allowed to proceed for 3 hours at 150 ° C, while the methanol formed was combined. Then, the temperature was raised to 200 ° C in 45 minutes, and then maintained 3 hours at 200 ° C. The distillation of methanol continued throughout the condensation. At the end of 3 hours at 200 ° C, the mixture was allowed to return to room temperature reducing agitation. As soon as the interior temperature reached 50 ° C, 300 ml of 1,2-dichloroethane was added. The synthesis solution was recovered, which was diluted with 1.7 liters of 1,2-dichloroethane. The excess of 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol was then extracted twice with 1 liter of demineralized water. During these two extractions, it is possible that an interfacial emulsion was formed. This emulsion is easily removable by heating the water used in the course of extraction. The organic phase was recovered, which was dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate. The 1,2-dichloroethane was filtered and evaporated until the recovery of the dried product. This polymer appeared in the form of a viscous liquid at room temperature. CHARACTERIZATION hydroxyl number: 190-195 Molecular weight measured: 600 at the apex of the maximum by steric exclusion chromatography EXAMPLE OF PREPARATION 2 Synthesis of a copolymer of sebacato / neopentyl glycol terephthalate of average molecular weight of 600-700 and with ends a, x hydroxyl. Composition of the starting reagents: Dimethyl terephthalate 116.4 g (0.6 M) - dimethyl sebacate 138 g (0.6 M) -2, 2-dimethyl-l, 3-propanediol (also called neopentyl glycol) 274.6 g (2.64 M) -Zinc dihydrate 0.3% by weight / load 1.6 g -1,2-pure dichloroethane 2 1 -Demineralized water 2 1 OPERATING MODE A 500 ml cylindrical reactor, equipped with a nitrogen inlet, a thermometer and a thermometer, is used. a distillation assembly. The reactor is heated by a bath in Wood mixture. 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol (melting point 126-128 ° C) and dimethyl sebacate (melting point 25-28 ° C) previously melted were introduced into the reactor. The mixture was heated from room temperature to 150 ° C in one hour. As soon as the reaction medium became clear around 100 ° C, dimethyl terephthalate was added. As soon as 150 ° C was reached in the reaction, zinc acetate was then introduced. The synthesis was allowed to proceed for 3 hours at 150 ° C, while the methanol formed was combined. Then, the temperature was raised to 200 ° C in 45 minutes, and then maintained 3 hours at 200 ° C. The distillation of methanol continued throughout the condensation. At the end of 3 hours at 200 ° C, the mixture was allowed to return to room temperature reducing agitation. As soon as the interior temperature reached 50 ° C, 300 ml of 1,2-dichloroethane was added. The synthesis solution was recovered, which was diluted with 1.7 liters of 1,2-dichloroethane. The excess of 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol was then extracted twice with 1 liter of demineralized water. During these two extractions, it is possible that an interfacial emulsion was formed. This emulsion is easily removable by heating the water used in the course of extraction. The organic phase was recovered, which was dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate. 1,2-Dichloroethane was filtered and evaporated until the recovery of the dried product. The polymer appeared in the form of a paste at room temperature, and became liquid at 50 ° C. CHARACTERIZATION hydroxyl number: 189-192 Molecular weight measured: 600 at the apex of the maximum by steric exclusion chromatography EXAMPLES OF APPLICATION EXAMPLE 3: Spray lacquer Lacquer composition: Vinyl acetate copolymer / vinyl tert-butyl benzoate / crotonic acid (65/25/10% by weight) of molecular weight 100,000 described in the patent FR 2,439,798 (which forms a film 8.6 g -2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (neutralizing) 0.86 g -Polyester oligomer of Example 1 (plasticizer) 0.43 g - Absolute ethanol qs 100 g Pressurization: - Composition of the lacquer 37 g -dimethyl ether 43 g -Pentano 20 g This formulation, applied by spraying on the hair, compared to a formulation containing a classic plasticizer of the polyether glycol type in the same amount, leads to a level of fixation equivalent to an easier detangling, a superior softness and a much more pleasant, smoother, lighter hair feeling without load effect. EXAMPLE: Aerosol Lacquer Lacquer Composition: Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-terbutylacrylamide copolymer, sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by BASF 8.6 g -2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (neutralizing) 1.5 g -Oligomer of polyester of Example 1 (plasticizer) 0.6 g - Water 33.5 g - Absolute ethanol qs 100 g Pressurization: - Composition of lacquer 45% -Dimethyl ether 55% This formulation, applied by spraying on the hair, compared to a formulation containing a classic plasticizer of the polyether glycol type in the same amount, leads to a level of fixation equivalent to easier detangling, superior softness and a dl sensation. hair much more pleasant, smoother, lighter and without load effect. EXAMPLE 5: Spray lacquer Lacquer composition: Vinyl acetate / tert-butyl benzoate / crotonic acid (65/25/10% by weight) vinyl acetate copolymer described in the patent FR 2,439,798 (which forms a film) 5.3 g -2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (neutralizing) 0.54 g -Polyester oligomer of Example 2 (plasticizer) 0.16 g - Absolute ethanol 30.8 g - Water qs 100 g Pressurization: - Composition of lacquer 65% % Dimethyl Ether This formulation led to good fixing properties of the hair, with a smooth and appropriate hair appearance, and less dry than the classic formulations based on the current plasticizers. EXAMPLE 6: Pump bottle spray Lacquer composition '- Acrylic acid terpolymer / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER 100P by the company BASF (film former) 7.0 g -2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (neutralizing) qs neutralization at 100% - Polyester oligomer of Example 2 (plasticizer) 0.35 g - Absolute ethanol qsp 100 g This formulation led to good fixing properties of the hair, with a smooth and appropriate hair appearance, and less dry than the classic formulations based on the current plasticizers.

EXAMPLE 7: Spray lacquer Lacquer composition: N-octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / hydroxypropyl methacrylate / acrylic acid / tert-butyl-to-Inethyl ethacrylate, sold under the name AMPHOMER LV 71 by the company NATIONAL STARCH ( film former) 15 g -2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (neutralizer) qs neutralization at 100% - Polyester oligomer of Example 1 (plasticizer) 0.7 g Water 33.5 g Absolute ethanol qs 100 g Pressurization: Lacquer composition 45% Dimethyl 55% ester This formulation led to good hair fixing properties, with a smooth and appropriate hair appearance, and less dry than the classic formulations based on current plasticizers. EXAMPLE 8 Nail varnish Chlorinated grafted copolymer described in example 1 of the patent 921 13600 (film former) 23% -Heptane 10% - Ethyl acetate 20% - Butyl acetate 34.9% - Polyester oligomer of example 1 (plasticizer) 10% -Pigments 0.8% -Tixotropic agent 1.2% - Citric acid 0.1% The varnish obtained is brilliant and has a good fixation. EXAMPLE 9: Nail varnish Chlorinated grafted copolymer described in example 1 of patent FR 92 13600 (film former) 23% -Heptane 10% - Ethyl acetate 20% - Butyl acetate 34.9% - Polyester oligomer of example 2 (plasticizer) 10% -Pigments 0.8% -Tixotropic agent 1.2% - Citric acid 0.1% The varnish obtained is brilliant and has a good fixation.

It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims (22)

1. CLAIMS 1. Use as a plasticizing agent of a film-forming polymer of at least one oligomer selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of monomer (s) with ethylenic unsaturation and the polycondensates, which has a mean molecular weight measured at the apexes by chromatography by steric exclusion ranging from 400 to 10000 and having a glass transition temperature ranging from -80 to 10 ° C, the use is characterized in that it is in or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least this polymer that movie form; the composition does not contain nitrocellulose type film-forming polymer.
2. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the average molecular weight of the plasticizer oligomer, measured at the apex of the maximum by steric exclusion chromatography, ranges from 500 to 5000.
3. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the glass transition temperature of the plasticizer oligomer varies from -70 to 5 ° C.
4. 4. Use according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is selected from acrylic, methacrylic, alumic, metalic or vinyl, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic homopolymers or copolymers.
5. 5. Use according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is selected from among the polymers of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of: - esters or acrylic or methacrylic amides obtained from aliphatic alcohols, linear, branched or cyclic and / or aromatic alcohols, preferably from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - the esters or vinyl, allylic or metalic amides obtained from aliphatic, linear, branched or cyclic alcohols and / or aromatic alcohols, preferably from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; -olefins; - halogenated or perhalogenated acrylic or vinyl monomers, and more particularly fluorinated or perfluorinated; - its mixtures
6. 6. Use according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is selected from the polymers of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of: - the monomers comprising at least one acid function, free form or in partially or totally neutralized form, such as monocarboxylic acids such as acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic acids; the carboxylic diacids or acid anhydrides as well as their monoesters or monoamides, such as maleic anhydride in the form of diacid, monoester or monoamide, itaconic acid; - the monomers comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form, such as vinyl- or styrene sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; monomers comprising at least one phosphoric or phosphonic acid function, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form.
7. 7. Use according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the plasticizing oligomer is selected from the polymers of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of: - the monomers comprising an amine function in free form or partially or totally neutralized, or partially or totally quaternary turn.
8. 8. Use according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is selected from the polymers of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of: -carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines obtained by partial or total quaternization of monomers with ethylenic unsaturation comprising an amine function by sodium salts of carboxylic acid with mobile halide or by cyclic sulfones.
9. 9. Use according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is selected from the polymers of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of: -hydroxyalkyl methacrylates of 1 to 30 carbon atoms; -the (meth) acrylamides, the dialkyl (meth) acrylamides of 1 to 30 carbon atoms; -N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam; ethylene glycol (meth) acrylates, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol with hydroxyl end or ether.
10. 10. Use according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is selected from polyesters, polyesters / amides, polyamides, polyurethanes and polyureas or their mixtures; the oligomer is anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or non-ionic.
11. 11. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the polyesters are selected from the group consisting of: - (i) the compounds of formula (1) below: HOOC- (CH2) m -COOH (1) wherein m is a whole number that goes from 2 to 20; - (ii) the compounds of formula (2) below: the mobile acid group is preferably in the ortho, para or meta position, and the benzene ring may comprise other substituents than the sulfonate groups; - (iii) their mixtures, with a diol selected from the group consisting of: - (a) the compounds of formula (3) below: HO- (CH2) x-OH (3) wherein x is an integer ranging from 2 to 20; - (b) the compounds of formula (4) below: HO- -OH (4) wherein P is an aliphatic, linear or branched, cycloaliphatic or aromatic trivalent hydrocarbyl radical, preferably a group - (CH2) P-CH- with p > 1, and more particularly the group - (CH2) -CH- and Ri designates a hydrocarbyl side chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms; - (c) the compounds of formula (5) below: HO • CH-CH2OH (5) wherein R2 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and R 4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - (d) the following compound of formula (6): HO CH, (6) - (e) the compound of formula (7) below: - (f) their mixtures.
12. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises on a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable support at least one film-forming polymer, dissolved or dispersed in the support, and at least one oligomer as defined in any of claims 1 to 11, dissolved or dispersed in the support, as a plasticizing agent of the film-forming polymer; the composition does not contain nitrocellulose.
13. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the plasticizer oligomer is used in concentrations in the dry materials ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 40%, and more particularly from 10. at 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of: - the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / tert-butyl benzoate vinyl copolymers; - the copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide; -the copolymers of N-octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / hydroxypropyl methacrylate / acrylic acid / tert-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate; -the terpolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate.
15. 15. Composition according to any of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the amount of film-forming polymer in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention ranges from 0.1 to 50%, and preferably between 1 and 30% by weight with relation to the total weight of the composition.
16. 16. Composition according to any of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable support consists of water, one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents. cosmetically acceptable, or of fatty substances selected from among mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes.
17. 17. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the organic solvents are lower alcohols of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or mixtures of butyl acetate and ethyl acetate.
18. 18. Composition according to any of claims 12 to 17, characterized in that it contains conventional cosmetic additives, selected from fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes. synthesis, organic solvents, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, humectants, treatment agents, antiperspirants, alkalizing agents, acidifying agents, UV-A or UV-B or long-wavelength sunscreens, dyes, pigments , perfumes, preservatives, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric organic polymers, and propellants when the compositions are presented in the form of an aerosol.
19. 19. Composition according to any of claims 12 to 18, characterized in that it is a capillary composition.
20. 20. Composition according to any of claims 12 to 18, characterized in that it is a makeup composition.
21. 21. Composition according to any of claims 12 to 18, characterized in that it is a composition for the care of the skin.
22. 22. Process for treating keratin materials, characterized in that it consists of applying a composition as defined in any of claims 12 to 21 on these last.