MXPA97000244A

MXPA97000244A - Use of a polyholoside in a cleansing or removing composition, and composition that includes it

Info

Publication number: MXPA97000244A
Application number: MXPA/A/1997/000244A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Vanstraceele Anne; Marion Catherine
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1996-01-10
Filing date: 1997-01-08
Publication date: 1998-04-01

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of polyholoside in a cleansing and / or make-up removal composition for the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes, comprising a cosmetic or dermatologically acceptable support. The invention also relates to a cleansing and / or de-makeup composition of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes, which includes the said polyholos

Description

USE OF A POLYHOL IN A CLEANSING OR REMOVABLE COMPOSITION, AND COMPOSITION THAT INCLUDES IT.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the use of a polychloroside in a commercially available composition intended for liming and / or removing makeup from the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes. It is known to use demasking oils in -compositions for the desmasuillaie of the eye and / or the eyes. Generally, these compositions preferably comprise surfactants which allow the elimination of said oil and / or makeup traces to melt. However, it is known that the use of these compositions can leave an impression of discomfort, particularly in the eyelids. and / or in the eyes. Desmaking compositions based solely on surfactants are also known, which will allow the elimination of traces of make-up facilitating the emulsification of the composition, making the sassa and aqueous phases of the composition compatible when the same is applied. It comes in the form of an emulsion. However, the surfactants may have the disadvantage of being more or less irritating to the skin.

REF: 23768 The invention aims to alleviate the drawbacks of the prior art and propose a composition that allows a cleaning and / or an easy and adequate make-up, that does not irritate the skin and / or eyes, and -which does not contain surfactant agent. The invention therefore has as a first object a composition for cleaning and / or removing makeup from the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes, comprising a homogeneous polyholoside and / or a compound comprising a homogeneous polyholoside. Another object of the invention is the use of homogeneous polyholoside and / or a compound that comprises it in a cleaning and / or make-up removal composition for the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes, including a support cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, in particular as a cleansing and / or make-up removing agent, and / or finally obtaining a make-up removing composition - little or no irritant, and / or in order to obtain a composition having a soft touch, and / or in order to obtain a gelled composition. Another object of the invention is a cleaning and / or de-makeup procedure of the honey and / or of the -mucosa and / or of the eyes, characterized in that it is applied on the skin and / or on the mucous membranes and / or on the eyes - a composition as defined above.

It has been observed in fact that the use of a polyholoside according to the invention results in an effective, non-irritating and non-adhesive cleansing and / or make-up removing composition, which also has a soft and pleasant touch. Furthermore, the incorporation of a polyholoside in the compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, allows obtaining a gelled composition without supplementing it with a conventionally used gelling agent. The gel obtained is smooth and unctuous. The subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a homogeneous polychloroside as a make-up removing agent, and / or in a make-up removing composition. The saccharides, of formula Cn (H, 0) n. they are generally divided into two categories; the simple sugars, and the osi two or association of several molecules. Among the osides, holosides that are formed by sugars and glycosides that are constituted by one or more bears and a non-glucidic part can be distinguished. Among the polyholosides, one can also distinguish the homogeneous polyolides which result either from the association of different bears, or from the association of bears, which have the same crude chemical formula but different geometrical configuration (D and L isomers). example) . Thus, the polyholosidoes according to the invention are homogeneous, therefore they are constituted only by sugars and result from the association of the same one. They can nevertheless be replaced, particularly by fatty chains or aminated groups. The polyholosides according to the invention can comprise, in particular, from 2 to 10 times the same (oli-goholosides), or more than 10 times the same, ones. The polyholosides according to the invention may comprise mainly a single osose unit, selected from all considerable sine units, of either natural or synthetic origin, and particularly such as aldoses such as pentoses (ribose, arabinose, xylous or apiose, example), or hexoses (glucose, fucose, mannose, or galactose, for example), - ketoses such as fructose, - deoxyses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, - cimarose or oleander, - derivatives of osa such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or gli curonic acids, or also itoles such as raanitol or sorbitan. Among the polyholosides according to the invention, there can be mentioned: the chitin and its derivatives, such as the chitosan derivatives, and particularly the chitosan lactate, which is an N-substituted polychloroside.; - hyaluronic acid derivatives, such as metal salts, and particularly sodium hyaluronate - which is an N-substituted polyholoside; dextran and its derivatives, such as -dextran sulfate, cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, polyquaternium 10 and 24; - starch, amylose and amylopectin and its derivatives; - chondroid and its derivatives, such as chondroitin and chondroitin sulfate. It is also possible to use compounds which have polyholosides according to the invention, in particular natural compounds such as honey, which comprise approximately 10% dextrin. The polyholoside according to the invention can be optionally branched or linear. It can also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, mainly comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and / or by aminated groups. Within the framework of the present invention, a homogeneous polyholoside alone or a mixture of homogeneous polyholosides can be used. The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which can comprise 0.01 to 5% by weight of polyholoside. The polyholoside can be present in the final composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight. The polyholosides according to the invention can therefore be used as a cleansing agent, in particular in a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin of the body or face, from mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or eyes They can thus replace all or part of the surfactants generally present in the cleaning and / or make-up compositions of the prior art. The said composition may be in the form of an emulsion, particularly oil in water or water in oil, even in the form of a broad emulsion. It can also be in the form of an aqueous solution, optionally gelled, or in the form of a lotion, for example biphasic, a cream, a milk, or even a foam. The composition according to the invention can sompren * - an oily phase based on animal, vegetable, mineral-based, silicone, fluorinated and / or synthetic oil. The oily phase can also comprise fatty alcohols or fatty acids, as well as surfactants and emulsifiers. Particular mention may be made of hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oil or petrolatum oil; the perhydrosqualene; peanut oil; the < - sweet almond, calofile, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; alcohols such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol. Mention may also be made of silicone oils, such as PDMS, optionally phenylated, such as phenyltriaethicones. The oily phase may also comprise a make-up removing oil such as a fatty acid ester, in particular the esters obtained from a straight or branched chain alcohol having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and a chain fatty acid. straight or branch that has 3 to 18 carbon atoms. An ester of this type can in particular be selected from the group consisting of dioctal adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, methyl myristate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, ethyl myristate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethyl hexanoate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, canrate / caprylic of 2-ethylhexyl, methyl palmitate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, ethyl nalmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl iso stearate. The oily phase can be present at a rate of 5-95% by weight in the case of an emulsion. The composition according to the invention can furthermore comprise an agent which allows the suspension in the fat suspension, for example a copolymer of alkyl acrylates of C, __ c30 and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or of its ester (Pemulen TRl, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1342 of GOODRICH); or an acrylamide / methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymer (Sepigel from SEPPIC), and / or - an agent for dispersing the fatty phase, - such as an emulsifier or vesicular system based on - vesicles, possibly of nanometric size, constituting by ionic lipids (lioosomes) or non-ionic lipids, and in particular the emulsifying systems well known to those skilled in the art constituted by glyceryl stearate / PEG 100 stearate (CTFA), cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol.

The composition of the invention may further comprise an agent for modifying its viscosity, and obtaining more or less gelled textures, such as cellulose derivatives (carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), natural gums such as gums of xanthan, guar, carob, scleroglucans, chitin or chitosan derivatives, carrageenans. - the polycarboxyvinyl derivatives of the Carbomer type - (sold by GOODRICH under the names Carbopol-940, 951, 980, or by 3V-SIGMA under the name Syntha len K or Synthalen L), The composition according to the invention can also comprise, of known manner, adjuvants commonly used in the field concerned, such as preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers such as kaolin or starch, including hollow raicrospheres, pigments, UV filters, sequestrants, essential oils, coloring matters, agents-hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents such as hydrating agents, particularly glycerin, butylene glycol, anti-inflammatory agents such as allantoin, bisabelol, free radicals such as vitamin E or its derivatives, thickeners such as cornflower water, iris extract, depigmenting agents, biological active agents - le ¬ such as urea, amino acids, vitamins and their derivatives, proteins, salicylic acid and its derivatives, Q? hydroxy-acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts, ceramides. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially altered by the considered addition. The composition preferably has a pH that respects the skin, generally between 5 and 8, preferably a pH of 5.5 to 7.5. The composition according to the invention can be prepared in any type of conditioning article. In particular, the cleaning compositions and / or makeup remover according to the invention can advantageously be packaged in mono-dose (or uni-dose) packaging, namely a package such that its contents can be used in their entirety during a use. only. A conditioning of this type can in particular be obtained according to the state of the art, particularly by extrusion-blow-molding of a plastic material, This procedure thus allows a container to be molded DOG sonicated, filled with the commissure, and -then sealed, in a single asyotic and continuous oneration. In a first stage, the Dolmer, particularly in the form of sranulate, can be extruded, which also makes it possible to sterilize it. A molding device, which is in the form of two halves, can be closed over the extruded Dollmero to form the container body. It is then possible to inject molten gas such as sterile filtered air into the mold, which makes it "blow" the package according to the shape of the mold. The container thus obtained can then be filled with the cleaning composition according to the invention, said composition preferably being previously sterilized. When the required volume has been filled, the container can be closed. A process of this type is described in particular in the article "Sterility and versatility in cosmetic cream packaging" of D, Wilson, appeared in Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide, oasins 253-256, Another object of the invention is accordingly a as for the cleaning and / or demasking of the oily skin and / or of the mucous membranes and / or eyes, comprising a homogenous polysaccharide, characterized by the fact that it is packed in monodose. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples, Example 1; Cleansing lotion for eyes - chitosan lactate 0.5 g - alantoin 0.1 g - cornflower water 3 g - rose water 0,5 g - preservative is - water esp 100 g This lotion, which does not contain surfactant, allows effective removal of the eyes; In addition, it is - suitable particularly for sensitive eyes. - 0.05 g sodium hyaluronate - alantoin 0.1 g - cornflower water 3 g - rose water 0,5 g - preservatives is - water esp 100 g This lotion, which does not contain surfactant, allows an effective make-up and particularly suitable for sensitive eyes, Example 3 > Biphasic cleansing lotion Aqueous phase (55% by weight) - Chitosan lactate 0.5 g - copper salt 0.04 g - preservatives is - water esp 100 g Fat phase (45% by weight) - petrolatum oil 15 g - volatile silicone oil 55 g - 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 30 g A biphasic lotion was obtained which allows an easy and effective make-up even for a waterproof make-up. Example 4; Make-up removing milk for face and eyes - dextran 0.5 g - 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 25 g. - glycerin 3 g - carboxylic polymer 0.5 g - NaOH 0.3 g - Preservatives is - water esp 100 g Example 5. Make-up removing milk for face and eyes - 0.05 g sodium hyaluronate - 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate 25 g - glycerin 3 g - carboxylic polymer 0.5 g - NaOH 0.3 g - preservative is - water esp 100 g This composition comes in the form of a cleansing milk with good cosmetic properties, and being soft and comfortable to use. Example 6; Cleansing gel for the face - sodium hyaluronate 0.05 g - glycerin 3 g - Carbomer 0.8 g - butter of charity 1 q - alcohol 5 g - preservative is - water esp 100 g This composition is in the form of a make-up removing gel having good cosmetic properties. Example 7: Make-up removing cream - sodium hyaluronate 0.01 g - 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate 10 g - volatile silicone oil 10 g - albaric oil of almonds 7 g - stearyl alcohol 5 g - potassium stearate 0.5 g - sorbitan stearate + sucrose cocoate 4 g - xanthan gum 0.3 g - preservative is - water esp 100 g This composition is presented in the form of a make-up remover that has good cosmetic properties.

Example 8; Cleansing lotion for eyes - sodium hyaluronate 0.05 g - alantoin 0.1 g - honey 0.3 g - poloxamer 184 1 g - cornflower water 3 g - rose water 0,5 g - preservative is - water esp 100 g This lotion, which contains a surfactant, allows an effective make-up of the eyes Example 9 Two aqueous solutions were prepared, one comprising 0.5% by weight of chitosan lactate, the other 0.05% by weight of sodium hyaluronate. Test 1: the cleansing power of these two solutions was compared with that of water and that of a commercial make-up remover. The cleansing power was determined with the help of the so-called "make-up removal robot" technique; . the apparatus is composed of a plate and a gold-plated arm of a weight exerting on the plate an pressure of 2 100 g / cm and equipped at one end with a piece that slides on the plate. on the plate a thin layer of a black waterproof mask marketed under the brand Keracils-by Lancóme. . this nlaca was set to dry for 4 h,. 8 simple nasadas were then performed without a return, with a cotton mat broken in 1 ml of the composition to be tested, the cotton was changed after each pass, . The amount of mask remaining on the plate after the 8 passes was visually evaluated. The 8 passes correspond to a desmasuillaje -perfect with the make-up remover of the trade, taken as a reference. It is observed that the cleansing power of the two solutions usually comprises a polyholoside according to the invention is superior to that of water, and even higher than that of the commercial make-up remover. Test 2: these results were confirmed by an in vivo test, made on 10 people. The solutions according to the invention were tested in comparison with the make-up remover of the food (control), for at least 3 days. Three criteria were evaluated: the cleansing power, the cosmetic character / softness, sliding, and the comfort, The following results were obtained: - solution comprising the chitosan lactate t, cleansing power identical to that of the eye make-up remover, Cosmetic character identical to that of the eye make-up remover. comfort superior to that of the control make-up remover - solution comprising sodium hyaluronate:. cleansing power superior to that of the eye make-up remover. . cosmetic character superior to the make-up remover -testigo. comfort superior to that of the eye make-up remover. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which results from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims

R E I V I N D I C A C I O E S

1. Composition for cleaning and / or removing makeup from the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes, characterized in that it comprises a homogeneous polyholoside and / or a compound comprising a homogeneous nolholoside.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the homologous ooliholoside comprises mainly a osa unit selected from the aldoses, the ketoses, the deoxyses, the osa derivatives, and their mixtures. 3 - Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the homogeneous polyholoside is substituted by amino groups and / or fatty chains, - preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the homogeneous ooliholoside is present in linear or branched form, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the homogeneous ooliholoside is chosen from chitin and its derivatives, as - the derivatives of suitosano, and particularly the lactate -of chitosan; hyaluronic acid derivatives, such as metal salts, and particularly sodium hyaluronate; dextran and its derivatives, such as dextran sulfate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyquaternium 10 and 24; starch, amylose and amylopectin and their derivatives; chondroid and its derivatives, such as chondroitin and chondroitin sulfate. 6, - Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said compound is honey, 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyholoside is present in the final composition in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight , preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight, based on the composition. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which does not comprise surfactant, 9.- Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are presented in the form of an emulsion, of an aqueous solution optionally gelled, of a particularly biphasic lotion, of a cream, of a milk, of a foam, 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in a single-dose container, 11, - Use of at least one homogenous polyholoside and / or at least one compound comprising a homogeneous polyhydroside, in a cleaning and / or de-making composition for the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes, comprising a cosmetic or Dermatologically - acceptable. 12. Use according to claim 11, wherein said compound and / or said indicated polyol is used as a cleansing and / or cleansing agent. 1

3. Use according to one of claims 11 and 12, in order to obtain a poorly or non-irritating make-up composition, and / or a composition having a soft touch and / or a gelled composition. 1

4. Use according to one of claims 11 to 13, in which the homogeneous polyholoside comprises - mainly a osa unit selected from among the aldoses, the ketoses, the deoxyses, the osa derivatives, and their mixtures. 1

5. Use according to one of claims 11 to 14, in which the homogeneous polyholoside is substituted by amino groups and / or fatty chains, preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 16.- Use according to one of the claims 11 to 15, in which the homogeneous polyholoside is present in linear or branched form. 17, < Use according to one of claims 11 to 16, in which the homogeneous polyholoside is chosen from chitin and its derivatives, such as chitosan derivatives, and particularly chitosan lactate; hyaluronic acid derivatives, such as metal salts, and particularly sodium hyaluronate; dextran and its derivatives, such as dextran sulfate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyquaternium 10 and 24; starch, -amylase and amylopectin and its derivatives; chondroid and its derivatives, such as chondroitin and chondroitin sulfate. 18. Use according to one of claims 11 to 13, wherein said compound is honey. 19, - Use according to one of claims 11 to 18, in which the polyholoside is present in the final composition in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, in relation to the composition, 20, - Use according to one of claims 11 to 19, in which the composition does not comprise surfactant. 21, - Use according to ma of claims 11 to 20, in a composition that is presented under the form of an emulsion, an aqueous solution, optionally gelled, a particularly biphasic lotion, a cream, a milk, a foam. 22. Procedure for cleaning and / or de-masking the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the eyes, characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or eyes. - any of claims 1 to 10.