MXPA02000473A - Cosmetic compositions. - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions.

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Publication number
MXPA02000473A
MXPA02000473A MXPA02000473A MXPA02000473A MXPA02000473A MX PA02000473 A MXPA02000473 A MX PA02000473A MX PA02000473 A MXPA02000473 A MX PA02000473A MX PA02000473 A MXPA02000473 A MX PA02000473A MX PA02000473 A MXPA02000473 A MX PA02000473A
Authority
MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
oil
quaternary ammonium
skin
composition according
compositions
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA02000473A
Other languages
Spanish (es)
Inventor
Hugo Jean-Marie Demeyere
Original Assignee
Procter & Gamble
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from GBGB9915095.5A external-priority patent/GB9915095D0/en
Priority claimed from GBGB9915094.8A external-priority patent/GB9915094D0/en
Application filed by Procter & Gamble filed Critical Procter & Gamble
Publication of MXPA02000473A publication Critical patent/MXPA02000473A/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/13Amines
    • A61K31/14Quaternary ammonium compounds, e.g. edrophonium, choline
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14Liposomes; Vesicles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent; (b) emollient; and (c) polar solvent; wherein the composition comprises vesicles, said vesicles comprising quaternary ammonium agent and emollient. The compositions of the present invention give good skin care benefits, such as good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tack.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that provide benefits of good skin feel, skin smoothness and / or smoothness of the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the keratin and fibrous collagen proteins that form the framework of its structure. The outermost part of these layers is referred to as the s t ra t um corn e um, it is known that it is composed of sets of 25nm proteins surrounded by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents normally penetrate the membrane of the tra tum corn eum and, by delipidation (that is, elimination of the lipids of s t ra tum corn eum), destroy their integrity. This destruction of the surface topography of the skin leads to a harsh sensation and eventually allows the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation. It has been recognized that maintaining the adequate aqueous gradient through the stratuní corneum is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to be the plasticizer of the stratum corneum, comes from within the body. If the humidity is too low, such as, for example, in a cold climate, an insufficient water content remains in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to properly laminate the tissue, and the skin begins to flake and burn. The permeability of the skin also decreases somewhat when there is an inadequate amount through the stratum corneum. On the other hand, too much water on the outer part of the skin causes the stratum corneum to finally absorb three to five times its weight of bound water. This swells and wrinkles the skin and results in approximately a two to three fold increase in the permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules. In this way, there is a need for compositions that help the stratum corneum maintain its barrier and its water retention functions in its optimal performance despite the harmful interactions that the skin can find in washing, work and recreation. In the past the compositions had been formulated to help keep the s tra t um corn um its barrier and water retention functions. These compositions have attempted to maintain these functions by the use of one or more "skin-friendly agents". For example, one way of providing desirable benefits to the skin is to incorporate emollient materials in the skin care compositions. These emollient materials retard moisture loss from the skin and also serve for a protective function. However, they can also experience serious negative effects on the terms of skin sensation (that is, there is often a feeling of a lot of fat on the skin) as they have poor rub, absorption and residual characteristics. An example of an emollient material are polyester and polyol oils. They are known for use in cosmetic compositions. See for example, US-A-6, 013, 271 which discloses a skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase including a carboxylic acid ester and liquid polyol, water; and an organic, liquid crystal-forming amphiphilic emulsifying material. Also, US-A-5,916,575 which discloses a non-emulsified personal cleansing composition comprises a surfactant for foam generation, water and a skin conditioning component which can be a solid carboxylic acid ester and a polyol and oil conditioner skin There seems to be a direct relationship between the amount of the agent suitable for the skin and the effectiveness of the composition in providing the benefits for the skin. NeverthelessIt is also the case that the higher the level of the agent suitable for the skin, the greater the risk of the associated negative effects. Therefore, to date, it has been necessary to balance the benefits of compositions comprising high levels of skin-friendly agents against the negative effects associated with these high levels. In this way, there remains a need for compositions containing high levels of skin-friendly agents, and therefore provide high levels of associated benefits such as, for example, skin feeling, skin smoothness and skin smoothness. , although they show low levels of the associated negative effects such as for example, greasy character, viscosity or stickiness. It is also known that quaternary ammonium agents are used in cosmetic compositions. See, for example, WO-A-99/27904, WO-A-96/32089, and EP-A-789, 076. Also, US-A-5, 804, 205 disclosing skin care compositions. which are claimed to provide a high degree of wetting without leaving a "viscous" or "sticky" residue. The compositions contain quaternary ammonium compounds having two alkyl groups of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydrophobic and non-irritating hydrophobic micro spheres having an average particle size of less than 50 μm. It is claimed that polymer hydrophobic micro spheres significantly reduce the "stickiness" associated with high levels of humectant. The compositions of the S-A-5, 804, 205 may also contain low levels of emollients such as, for example, petrolatum or mineral oil. Unexpectedly it has been found that compositions comprising at least one quaternary ammonium agent, an emollient and a polar solvent, wherein the compositions comprise vesicles comprising quaternary ammonium agent and emollient, provide high levels of associated benefits such as sensation of the skin, softness of the skin and smoothness of the skin, although they show low levels of associated negative effects such as greasiness, viscosity or stickiness. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents of the present invention form vesicles that incorporate the emollient materials. The polar solvent is necessary to lead to the formation of these vesicles. In addition to the emollient contained in the vesicles, it is believed that the remaining emollient is emulsified by the quaternary ammonium agent. It is believed that the vesicles ensure a smooth and uniform application of the emollient to the skin with minimal adhesion / viscosity / fat character. Even when the compositions comprise extremely high percentages of emollients, for example 20% by weight, there are only low levels of the usual negative effects. It is also believed that quaternary ammonium agents help reduce the loss of the emollient from the skin due to environmental factors such as water or abrasion, and thus extend the duration of benefits derived from the emollient. In addition, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents themselves provide skin care benefits, such as, for example, good wetting, good skin feel, good skin smoothness.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent; (b) an emollient; and (c) a polar solvent; wherein the composition comprises vesicles comprising a quaternary ammonium agent and an emollient. The compositions of the present invention provide good benefits for skin care, such as for example, good wetting, good hydration, good feeling of the skin, good skin smoothness and / or good smoothness of the skin, with low levels of negative effects such as, for example, greasiness, stickiness or viscosity.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one quaternary ammonium agent, an emollient and a polar solvent, wherein the composition comprises vesicles, the vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium agent and an emollient. These elements will be described in more detail later. The compositions herein can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the compositions herein are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase comprising a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form although the different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials among themselves. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant. The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a product viscosity of at least about 1,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range of between about 1,000 and 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably between about 2,500 and 250,000 mPa. .specially between about 5,000 and 200,000 mPa.s (26.8 C, pure, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle CP52 / CP41).
Quaternary ammonium agent The compositions of the present invention should comprise at least one quaternary ammonium agent. Any quaternary ammonium agent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. As used herein, the term "quaternary ammonium agent" means a compound or mixture of compounds having one quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or more, preferably two, entities containing six or more carbon atoms. Preferably, the quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are selected from those having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with two entities wherein each entity comprises ten or more, preferably, 12 or more, carbon atoms. Preferably, the compositions herein comprise at least 0.01%, more preferably at least 0.1%, even more preferably at least 1.5%, still more preferably at least 3% by weight of quaternary ammonium agent. Preferably, the quaternary ammonium agents to be used herein are selected from: (a) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (I): wherein Ri and R2 are each C? -C alkyl groups or C? -C4 hydroxy alkyl or hydrogen. R3 and R4 are each alkyl or alkenyl groups having from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms. X "is a salt-forming anion, compatible with the quaternary ammonium compounds and other adjunct ingredients.The preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of this type are quaternized amines having the general formula (I) wherein R \ and R2 are methyl or hydroxyethyl and R3 and R4 are linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chains comprising at least 11 atoms, preferably at least 15 carbon atoms (b) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (II) or (III) ): (R5) 4 ^ ^ - ("(CHz ?, Q Re) m 01) wherein, each R 5 unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or straight chain Ci-Ce alkyl, straight or branched chain C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl; each R6 unit is independently linear or branched Cn-C22 alkyl, linear or branched Cn-C22 alkenyl, and mixtures thereof; X "is an anion that is compatible with active ingredients and adjuncts for skin care, m is 1 to 4, preferably 2, n is 1 to 4, preferably 2, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from: -OR- -C- II «? 7 -N-« and R7 or -HC- -o- II wherein R is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.
In the example of the above quaternary ammonium compound, the -QRß unit contains a fatty acyl unit which is normally derived from a triglyceride source. The triglyceride source is preferably derived from tallow, partially hydrogenated tallow, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oils and / or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, wood pulp oil, rice bran oil, etc. and mixtures of these oils. The counter ion, X "in the above compounds, may be any compatible anion, preferably the anion of a strong acid, for example, chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, etiisulfate, sulfate, nitrate and the like, more preferably chloride or metisulfate.The anion can also carry, although less preferred, a double charge in which case X "represents half of a group. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are the quaternary ammonium diester and / or diamide compounds (DEQA), the diesters and diamides having the general formula (II), wherein the carbonyl group Q is selected from: • c-o- R7 O N I - Tallow, cane and palm oil are convenient and inexpensive sources of fatty acyl units which are suitable for use in the present invention as Rß units. The counter ion, X ", may be chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof In fact, the anion, X, is present simply as a counter-ion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds.The scope of this invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion. where it is used herein, when the diester is specified, it will include the monoester and triester which are normally present as a result of the manufacturing process (c) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (IV) or (V): (V) wherein R9 is a hydrocarbon group of C? s-C2? acyclic aliphatic and Rio is an alkyl or alkylene group of C? -C6. These ammonium compounds, which have a pKa value of no more than about 4, are capable of generating a cationic charge in themselves when dispersed in an aqueous solution, with the proviso that the pH of the final composition is not more than about 6. (d) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (VI) or (VII): wherein Rg and Rio are as specified above and Rn is selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups of C? -C4. The counter-ion, X ", can be chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof In fact, the anion, X, is present simply as a counter-ion of the quaternary ammonium compounds. positively charged The scope of this invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion (e) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (VIII) or (IX): ? , 0 n (H2C) N- - (CH2) p- -N 'H (VIII) wherein, n is from 1 to 6, R9 is selected from acyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon groups of C? 5-C2? and Ri2 is selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups of Ci-C4. These ammonium compounds (VIII), which have a pKa value of no greater than about 4, are capable of generating a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, with the proviso that the pH of the final composition is not greater than about 6. ion, X "(IX), may be chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof In fact, the anion, X, is present simply as a counter-ion of the quaternary ammonium compounds positively charged The scope of this invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion (f) dicuaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (X), (XI), (XII) or (XIII): * 6 Q (CH2 2X "(X) (XI) XIII) where R5, R? , Q, n and X "are as defined above in relation to the general formula (II) and (III), Ri3 is selected from alkylene groups of C? ~ C6, preferably an ethylene group and z is from 0 to 4. ( g) Mixtures of the above quaternary ammonium compounds Preferred quaternary ammonium agents for use in the present invention are those described in section (b) above, In particular, quaternary ammonium diester and / or diamide compounds are preferred ( DEQA) according to the above general formula (II) The preferred diesters for use herein are those according to the general formula (II) wherein R5, Re, and X "are as defined above and Q is: Preferred diamides for use herein are those according to the general formula (II) wherein R5, R1, and X ~ are as defined above and Q is: H O N I - Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethyl-ammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl) methylisulfate -oxi-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. For use herein, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylisulfate is particularly preferred.
Although quaternary ammonium compounds derived from "canolyl" fatty acyl groups are preferred, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds are derived from fatty acyl groups wherein the term "canolyl" in the above examples is replaced by the terms "seboyl," cocoyl, palmyl, lauryl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl "corresponding to the triglyceride source from which the fatty acyl units are derived. These alternative fatty acyl sources can comprise any completely saturated, or at least partially unsaturated, chains.
Emollients A second essential element of the compositions of the present invention is one in which they comprise an emollient. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and flexibility of the skin, prevent or alleviate the dryness of the skin, and / or protect the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used herein. Sa ga ri n, Cosme ti cs, Sci ence and Technolgy, 2a. Edi ci on, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1 912) contains numerous examples of materials suitable for use as emollients. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise more than 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, still more preferably at least 20% by weight of the emollient. Preferably, the emollients for use herein are selected from: i) straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as, for example, dodecane, squalane, petrolatum, cholesterol and derivatives thereof; same, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and C7-C4o isoparaffins, which are branched C7-C4o hydrocarbons. ii) Alcohol esters of C? -C30, carboxylic acids of C? -C30 and dicarboxylic acids of C2_C3o, for example, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, maleate dioctyl, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate. iii) Mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of carboxylic acids of C? -C30 and ethoxylated derivatives thereof. Polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG-6 capric / caprylic glycerides, PEG-8 capric glycerides / PEG-8 corn glycerides, PEG corn glycerides. -20, corn glycerides PEG-60, PEG-60 Ass Herb Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-78 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Dioleate 12, glyceryl isostearate PEG-15, glyceryl isostearate PEG-20, glyceryl isostearate PEG-30, cocoa butter glycerides PEG-75, glycerides of PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil, PEG-70 mango glycerides, glycerides of PEG-13 mink, PEG-75 butter glycerides shorea, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-12 palm seed glycerides, PEG-45 palm seed glycerides, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-8 glyceryl laurate 30 Mixtures of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides can also be used herein. iv) Alkylene glycol esters of C? -C30 carboxylic acids, for example, ethylene glycol mono- and di-esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di-esters of C? -C30 carboxylic acids for example, ethylene glycol distearate. v) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil can be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" in the sense in which it is used in this context refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under an atmosphere of pressure) of about 100 ° C or more. The term "volatile" in the sense in which it is used in this context refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones that go through a wide variety of volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, issued December 3, 1991. Preferred organopolysiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures are preferred herein. thereof. For use herein, polyalkyl ioxanes and cyclomethicones are more preferred. Among the preferred polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones. vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, shad oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, oil rapeseed oil, flaxseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, partial and fully hydrogenated oils from the above sources, and mixtures thereof. vii) animal fats and oils, for example, cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred. viii) Also useful are the alkyl ethers of C4-C20 polypropylene glycols, C? -C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and C8-C30 di-alkyl ethers, examples of which include butyl ether PPG-14, stearyl ether PPG-15, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether and mixtures thereof. ix) carboxylic acid and polyol esters. x) mixtures of the above.
Preferred emollients for use in the compositions herein are selected from dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, oil coconut, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, oil palm, peanut oil, soybean oil, carboxylic acid esters and polyol and mixtures thereof. The most preferred emollients for use herein are selected from esters of carboxylic acid and polyol, petrolatum and mixtures thereof. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol entity and one or more carboxylic acid entities. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters may be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mixed soybean oil fatty acid tetraesters, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, tetraesters of arabinose of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaolate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester entities are palmitoleate and arachididate in a 1: 2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester entities are linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3 molar ratio; the maltose heptaester wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid entities are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3: 4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid entities are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid entities are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is the sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid entities are mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenic of C? 8, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenics from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the sucrose octaester in which there are approximately 7 behenic fatty acid entities and about 1 oleic acid entity in the molecule. Other materials include sucrose esters of fatty acid from cottonseed oil or soybean oil. Ester materials are further described in U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854, U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,195, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977, U.S. Patent No. 5,306,516, Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300, Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989; U.S. Patent No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued June 15, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and the patent of the US Pat. No. 4,517,360, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985. The polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein may be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. . These methods include: transesterification of the polyol with methyl, ethyl or fatty acid esters and glycerol using a variety of catalysts; the acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid chloride; the acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and the acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid, per se. See, for example, the patent of United States No. 2,831,854; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977. A particularly preferred material is known under the name INCI polyco t ton s eeda t e of sucrose.
Polar Solvent The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a polar solvent. Any suitable polar solvent for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. However, the polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to drive vesicle formation in the present invention. Preferably, the polar solvent used in the compositions of the present invention is water. Preferably, the compositions herein will comprise between 10% and 90%, more preferably between 20% and 80%, even more preferably between 30% and 60% by weight of polar solvent.
Vesicles The compositions of the present invention should comprise vesicles, the vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium agent and an emollient. In the sense in which it is used herein, the term "vesicle" means one or more bilayers arranged in a usually spherical, closed geometry, the bilayer comprises a quaternary ammonium agent as described above. In the compositions of the present, the vesicles of preference are substantially spherical. The presence of vesicles in the compositions herein can be detected by microscopic analysis (polarized light microscopy at x60 magnification using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope). Preferably, the vesicles of the present have a numerical average size of between O.Olμm and 30μm, more preferably between 0.02μm and 15μm.
Optional ingredients The compositions herein may contain a variety of optional components suitable to render the compositions herein more cosmetic or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional use benefits. These conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art. These include any cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as, for example, those found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, la. edition, edited by Nenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1991). Some non-limiting examples of these optional ingredients are provided below.
Moisturizer A fairly preferred optional ingredient for the compositions of the present invention is a humectant. In the sense in which it is used herein, the term "humectant" means a substance that provides the skin with benefits for water retention. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, still preferably at least 20% by weight of the humectant. Any suitable humectant for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. Non-limiting examples of humectants suitable for use in the present invention are described in WO98 / 22085, W098 / 18444 and WO97 / 01326. Preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected to include: amino acids and derivatives thereof such as for example, proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and water, and extract of codi um t omen ts, amino acids or peptides of collagen, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1, glucamine salts, salts of glucuronic acid, glutamic acid salts, glycerin polyethylene glycol ethers (for example, glycereth 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey, and extracts or derivatives thereof, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, hydrolysed mucopolysaccharides, inositol , keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG 10, methyl gluceth-10 and -20 (both commercially available from Amerchol located in Edison, NJ), methyl glucose, 3-methyl -1, 3-butanediol, N-acetyl glucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as, for example, PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythritol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythritol, 1 , 2 pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts such as, for example, glyceryl pea, saccharide isomerate, SEACARE (available from Secma), sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, poly Sodium Aspartate, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sorbet 20, Sorbet 6, sugar and sugar alcohols and derivatives thereof such as, for example, glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethoprolol, tris (hydroxymethyl) salts ) amino methane, and yeast extract, and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerin.
Other Skin Suitable Agents Other suitable skin agents may be useful in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of other skin-friendly agents that can be used in the compositions herein include: (a) Vitamin Compounds The compositions herein may comprise vitamin compounds, precursors, and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be in either natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include Vitamin A compounds (eg, beta carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl proprionate, etc.), Vitamin B (eg, niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, etc.). ), Vitamin C (for example, ascorbic acid, etc.), Vitamin D (for example, ergosterol, ergocalciferol, colecalci ferol, etc.), Vitamin E (for example, tocopheryl acetate, etc.) and Vitamin K (for example, phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.). Preferred vitamin compounds for use in the compositions of the present invention are vitamin B3 compounds. The vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulating the condition of the skin as described in WO-A-97/39733. When present, the compositions of the present invention preferably comprise between about 0.01% and 50%, more preferably between about 0.1% and 10%, even more preferably between about 0.5% and 5% by weight, of the composed of vitamin B3. In the sense in which it is used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COH (ie, nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the above. Advantageous derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating nicotinic acid esters, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N- niacinamide oxide. Examples of suitable vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from various sources, for example, the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). The vitamin compounds can be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by the physical and / or chemical proper isolation of natural sources (e.g., plants). (b) Anti-wrinkle and anti-atrophying active ingredients of the skin Examples of active anti-wrinkle and anti-atrophy agents of the skin that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: lactic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); retinol; retinyl esters; niacinamide, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; amino acids D and L containing sulfur and its derivatives and salts, in particular the N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example thereof is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, for example, ethanethiol; hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, and agents for skin peeling (eg, phenol and the like). (c) Antimicrobial and antifungal actives Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, Ñor f loxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, chlorine lineomycin hydrate, methacycline hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, sulfate of amanfadine, octopirox, paraclorometa xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, z-pyrithione and clotrimazole. (d) Assets for sunscreen The compositions herein may also comprise active for sunscreen. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are useful herein. These sunscreen agents include both organic compounds and their salts, as well as inorganic particulate materials. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that sunscreen agents provide protection from ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms, which include: absorption, scattering, and reflection of ultraviolet radiation. Non-limiting examples of these sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., Issued February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372, Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. granted on December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,160,731, to Sabatelli et al., issued November 3, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,138,089, to Sabatelli, issued August 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,041,282, to Sabatelli, issued August 20, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli et al., issued March 12, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370, to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and Segarin, et al., in Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology. Among the preferred sunscreen agents are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, N, N-dimethylaminobenzoate 2-ylhexyl, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2- acid phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4, 4'-methoxy-t butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4- acid ester ilaminobenzoico N, N-dimeth with 2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone, ester of 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic with 2-hydroxy-4 - (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, ester of 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic 4 - hydroxydibenzoi 1-methane, ester of 4-N, N-dimet and laminobenzoic acid with 4- (2- and & Za & tt ^ & zg hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, ester of 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic 2, -dihidroxibenzofenona, ester of 4-N, N-di (2-et ilhexyl) aminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2) -etilhexil) aminobenzoic with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, ester of 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) meth ilaminobenzoico 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, ester of 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl ) methylaminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethyoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) ester methylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof. In the compositions described herein, those preferred for use to a greater extent are the sunscreen agents selected from the group consisting of N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate 2-ethylhexyl, p-methoxycinnamate 2-ethexyl, octocrylene, octyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-fenilbenzimida zol-5-sulfonic acid, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4, 4'-methoxy-1-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3 - (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzi lideno camphor, 4-N, N- (2-ethexyl) -methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof. The exact amounts of sunscreens that can be used will vary depending on the sunscreen selected and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) that will be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen against redness. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978.
Thickeners The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise thickeners. Any suitable thickener for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. The preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water soluble polymers, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic polymers include these water soluble polymers such as cellulose ethers (eg, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, ethylhydroxy ethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), poly (ethylene oxide), polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, guar gum with hydroxypropyl, amylose, hydroxyethyl amylose, starch, and starch derivatives. Suitable fatty alcohols are non-volatile primary molecular weight alcohols having the general formula RCH20H wherein R is an alkyl of Cs-2o- They can be produced from natural fats or oils by reducing the COH grouping of fatty acid to the hydroxyl function. Alternatively, fatty alcohols identical or similarly structured can be produced according to conventional synthetic methods known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to: behenyl alcohol, Cg-Cn alcohols, C? 2-C? 3 alcohols, C? 2-C? 5 alcohols, C? 2-C? 6 alcohols, C? 4-C? 5, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, alcohol is tearic, t-alcohol cetyl, alcohol of sebum, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.
Other optional ingredients The compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of other optional components. These additional components must be pharmaceutically acceptable. Non-limiting examples of functional classes of ingredients suitable for use. in the compositions of the present invention include: abrasives, absorbers, anti-acne actives, anti-agglutinating agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirant agents, anti-oxidants, anti-viral assets, artificial tanning actives and accelerators, biological additives, bleaching agents, activators bleaches, brighteners, formers, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetics, cleansers, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, deodorants, active ingredients for desquamation, depilators, drug astringents, dyes, agents for dye transfer, enzymes , external analgesics, foam generators, flavorings, film formers, fragrance components, insect repellents, mold exterminators, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory active, opacifying agents, oxidative dyes, oxidizing agents, pest control ingredients, adjuvants pH such as for example, ac citric acid, pH absorbers, pharmaceutical actives, plasticizing agents, preservatives, radical scavengers, for skin, hair or to discolor nails, conditioners for skin, hair or nails, intensifiers for skin penetration, hair or nails, stabilizers, surfactants, surface conditioners, reducing agents, temperature reducers, viscosity modifiers, and heat generators such as, for example, exothermic zeolites. Also useful in the present are aesthetic components such as, for example, dyes, essential oils and skin healing agents. Other optional materials herein include pigments. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and / or inorganic. Also included within the term pigment are materials that have a low color or luster such as, for example, agents for matte finish, and also agents for light scattering. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, iron oxides with acylglutamate, titanium dioxide, navy blue, D &C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof.
Formulation process The compositions of the present invention are prepared in such a way that the quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. The vesicles also comprise an emollient. Preferably, the vesicles also comprise a humectant. In order to ensure optimum performance characteristics, it is preferred that the compositions of the present invention be prepared as follows: (i) all or part of the quaternary ammonium agent is mixed with humectant, water-soluble skin care active (when included), and, preferably, polar solvent at a temperature that is higher than the melting point of the ammonium quaternary agent; (ii) optionally, the mixture is stirred vigorously; (iii) In a separate container the emulsion is prepared as follows; the oil phase containing the emollients, the relevant thickener in case the thickener is soluble oil and any remaining ammonium quaternary agent are mixed together at a temperature which is higher than the melting point of the quaternary ammonium agent. The aqueous phase is prepared separately. The water, the relevant thickener, in case the thickener is soluble in water, and any remaining water soluble ingredients are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase. (iv) the temperature of the oil and the aqueous phases of the emulsion is approximately equalized and the aqueous phase is combined with the oil phase with stirring. (v) In the production of the emulsion, the mixture formed in step (i) is added to the emulsion mentioned above with stirring.
Method of use The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be used in a conventional manner for the treatment of the skin. An effective amount of the composition, usually between about 0.1 grams and 50 grams, preferably between about 1 gram and 20 grams, is applied to wet or dry, preferably wet, skin. The application of the composition usually includes working the composition on the skin, generally with the hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin or, preferably, the skin is rinsed. The preferred method for treating the skin, therefore, comprises the steps of: (a) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin, (b) rinsing the skin. A preferred aspect of the present invention includes the above method with an application of the composition to dry skin before application to wet skin. Therefore, a preferred method comprises: (i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to dry skin; (ii) rinse the skin under the shower; (iii) application of an additional amount of the composition; and (iv) further rinsing. Most damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure to surfactant-containing compositions during washing routines. It has been found that this damage can be mitigated using the compositions herein. Therefore, another preferred method comprises: (i) washing the skin using a composition comprising surfactants; (ii) rinse the skin; (iii) applying to the wet skin a composition according to the present invention; (iv) rinse the skin. It has been found that the compositions herein are particularly useful when incorporated as part of a regular routine. Therefore, another preferred method comprises: (i) applying to the skin a composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound; (b) a humectant; and (ii) rinsing the skin; (iii) repeat steps (i) and (ii) within a 48-hour period. The compositions herein can also be useful for mitigating the damage caused by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, the damage caused by exposure of the skin to water during swimming exercises or the like, damage caused by shaving or Exfoliation or damage 10 caused by exposure of the skin to water during bathing.
EXAMPLES The following examples further illustrate the preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are provided for purposes of illustration only and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention as many variations of the invention are possible without departing from its spirit or scope. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight of the active ingredient. 25 ¡£ gg ^ g¡¡jjc ^ Sfe ^ £ «^^ 1; Available from Croda 2; Available from Floratech, AZ, USA 3; Available from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA 4; Available from Amerchol, NJ, USA 5; Available from Rhodia, NJ, USA Notes • In Examples 1, 4, 7, 9, 17, 20, 22, 24, 28, 36, 38, 47, 49, 53, 56 the quaternary ammonium compound used is distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft TA100. • In examples 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 26, 27, 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, 41, 45, 46, 48, 50, 51, 52, 54, 55, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylisulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620. • In example 11 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methylisulfate, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylisulphate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat WE18 • In example 12 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-yl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride supplied by Goldschmidt, developing material (WE25) • In Example 13 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methylbisulfate methobisulfate (hydrogenated εylboamidoetyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 110. In Example 14 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methylbisulfate methylisulfate. (tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 222. • In Example 25 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methyl-1-tallowethyl-2-seboimidazoline supplied by Goldschmidt, material under development. example 29 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Met il-l-tallowamidoethyl-2-seboimidazoline supplied by Goldschmidt, developing material • In Example 30 the quaternary ammonium compound io used is Met il-1-tallowyle-il-2-seboimidazolinium methylisulfate supplied by Goldschmidt • In Example 32 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Met il-1 -seboamidoet il-2-seboimidazolinium methylisulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 475, Varisoft 445 • In the example 39 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, -Dimet il-N- (canolyl-oxy-et il) -N- (canolamidoethyl) amine, supplied by Kao. • In Example 40 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-Dimethyl-N- (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) Ammonium methylisulfate, supplied by Kao • In Example 42 the ammonium compound The quaternary used is N, N'-Bis (2-tallowyloxyethyl) -N, N, N ', N' -Tet ramet ilen Di ammonium dichloride, as described in US patents 4728337, US 4721512, US 4906413 of Ciba- Geigy Corporation • In Example 43, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N'- Bis (2-caneloxyethyl) -N, N '-Dimet il-, N' - (2-Hydroxyethyl) -1,6-Hexan diammonium methylisulfate. , as described in the patents EP 0503155A1 and EP 0803498 of Goldschmidt-Witco. • In example 44, the quaternary ammonium compound used is di and quaternary oligo esters prepared by the reaction of fatty acid, difunctional (or multifunctional) acid and triethanolamine followed by quaternization as described in W098 / 49132 of Kao and US 5880289 to Henkel.
Process For those operators that include component C: 1. Premix 1: Combine the components of group A together at a temperature higher than the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound., maintaining behind a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water. Shake this premix vigorously. 2. Premix 2: Combine the components of groups B and C with the remaining portions of the quaternary ammonium compounds and water not previously used in Premix 1. Heat above the melting point of the quaternary and the oils. 3. Combine Premix 1 and 2 and let cool to 40 ° C, stir in the perfume.
For those examples that include component D: 1. Premix 1: Combine the components of group A together at a temperature higher than the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, keeping behind a predetermined portion of the Water. Shake this premix vigorously. 2. Premix 2: Combine with agitation the components of group D with water not previously used in premix 1. 3. Combine premix 1 and 2 and the components of groups B and E. Shake vigorously. The compositions of the above examples provide good benefits for skin care, such as, for example, good wetting, good hydration, good skin feeling, good skin smoothness and / or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negative effects such as for example, greasy character, viscosity or stickiness.

Claims (10)

  1. CLAIMS 1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent; (b) an emollient; and (c) a polar solvent; wherein the composition comprises vesicles, the vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium compound and an emollient.
  2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.01%, more preferably at least 1% by weight, of the quaternary ammonium agent.
  3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the composition comprises at least 1%, more preferably at least 5% by weight of an emollient.
  4. 4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein the emollient is selected from dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, oil of coconut, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, carboxylic acid esters and polyol and mixtures thereof.
  5. 5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the vesicles have a numerical average size of between O.Olμm and 30μm, preferably between 0.02μm and 15μm.
  6. 6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the quaternary ammonium agent is selected from those according to the general formula (II) or (III): (R5) '4-m -N + - (- (CH2) p Q R6) m X "(ID wherein, each R 5 unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight chain Ci-C 1 hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl; each unit & e) independently linear or branched Cn-C22 alkyl, linear or branched Cn-C22 alkenyl, and mixtures thereof; X "is an anion that is compatible with active ingredients and adjuncts for skin care, m is 1 to 4, preferably 2, n is 1 to 4, preferably 2, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from: 10 -OR- • C- or -C- R7 O -N- m ~ - ~ M a * x. wherein R7 is hydrogen, C? -C4 alkyl, C? -C4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.
  7. 7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein the quaternary ammonium agent is selected from N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethyl-ammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl-) methylisulfate oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof .
  8. 8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the polar solvent is water.
  9. 9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition additionally comprises a humectant.
  10. 10. The use of the composition according to any of the preceding claims for the treatment of the skin.
MXPA02000473A 1999-06-28 2000-06-27 Cosmetic compositions. MXPA02000473A (en)

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GBGB9915095.5A GB9915095D0 (en) 1999-06-28 1999-06-28 Cosmetic compositions
GBGB9915094.8A GB9915094D0 (en) 1999-06-28 1999-06-28 Cosmetic compositions
US20191500P 2000-05-04 2000-05-04
PCT/US2000/017634 WO2001000147A1 (en) 1999-06-28 2000-06-27 Cosmetic compositions

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DE10132174A1 (en) * 2001-07-03 2003-03-27 Goldschmidt Ag Th New betaine ester compounds are useful in hair and skin care products and in cleaning agents
MXPA04000226A (en) * 2001-07-13 2004-05-21 Procter & Gamble Mousse forming compositions comprising quaternary ammonium agents.
DE10234801A1 (en) 2002-07-31 2004-02-19 Wella Ag Hair wax product with a liquid or creamy consistency
CN100361647C (en) * 2005-08-08 2008-01-16 邵建国 Skin-benefiting bath lotion
US9616013B2 (en) 2014-12-24 2017-04-11 L'oreal Photo-activated hydrogels

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US5145604A (en) * 1990-09-19 1992-09-08 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Aqueous emulsion and aerosol delivery system using same
US5229104A (en) * 1991-04-29 1993-07-20 Richardson-Vicks Inc. Artificial tanning compositions containing positively charged paucilamellar vesicles
DE69522930T2 (en) * 1994-03-04 2002-04-11 Unilever Plc LIPOSOME FOR DEPOSIT ON HAIR
US5552137A (en) * 1994-08-05 1996-09-03 Witco Corporation Biodegradable quaternary hair conditioners
FR2741263B1 (en) * 1995-11-22 1997-12-26 Oreal COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS DISPERSION OF LIPID VESICLES ENCAPSULATING AN ACID-FUNCTIONAL UV FILTER AND USES FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION
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