MXPA00011980A - Transfer-resistant cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile silicone compound and a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil which is incompatible with this silicone compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a composition, which includes:at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent;at least one non-volatile silicone compound which is soluble or dispersible in the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent;and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil which is soluble in the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound;wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil has solubility parameters satisfying the relationships, 16.40 (J/cm3)<=deltaD<=19.00 (J/cm3) and 2.00 (J/cm3)<=deltaa<=9.08 (J/cm3). Other embodiments of the present invention provides methods of making and using the above-noted composition, as well as compositions that include the above-noted composition. By the present invention, it is possible to obtain a glossy deposit having very good staying power, which undergoes little or no transfer, does not migrate and is water-resistant, while at the same time being very pleasant to apply and to wear t hroughout the day.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITHOUT TRANSFER COMPRISING ÜN NON-VOLATILE SILICONE COMD AND A HYDROCARBONATED OIL NOT VOLATILE INCOMPATIBLE WITH THIS SILICONE COMD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is concerned with a composition containing a non-volatile silicone comd and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil incompatible with one another, intended in particular for the cosmetic domain. More especially, the invention is concerned with a non-transferable and brilliant composition for the care and / or make-up of the skin, both of the face and the human body, the lips, the lower or upper eyelids or even appendages such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, nails and hair. This composition can be present, in particular, in the form of a product molded into a bar or into a cup, such as lipsticks or lip balms, molded foundation compositions, anti-puffiness products, eyelid or cheek shaders, in the form of paste or cream. or less fluid as background makeup or fluid lipsticks, eyeliners, masks, sunscreen compositions, coloring or artificial tanning of the skin or even makeup of the body or hair. The make-up or care products of the skin or lips of human beings such as makeup Ref: 125638 background or lipsticks contain in general fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers and eventually additives such as cosmetic or dermatological actives. They can also contain so-called "pasty" products of flexible consistency, which make it possible to obtain pastes, colored or not, to be applied with a brush or brush. These compositions, when applied to the skin or lips, have the drawback of transfer, that is to say deposited at least in part, leaving traces, in certain articles with which they can be contacted, such as in particular a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or skin. It results in a mediocre persistence of the applied film, which needs to regularly renew the application of the composition of background makeup or lipstick. On the other hand, the appearance of unacceptable traces, particularly in shirt collars, can deter certain women from using this type of makeup. In addition, these compositions have a tendency to To migrate, that is to spread to the interior of wrinkles and wrinkles of the skin that surround the lips and eyes, cause an unsightly effect. The Procter & Gamble has devised in his patent application WO-A-96/40044 pencil compositions labial that exhibit properties without transfer, that j ^ £ j a ^ ^^^^? & they contain a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil of the incompatible perfluoropolyether type. In this application, the improvement of the brightness is also described thanks to the previous dispersion of an oily phase in a matrix and the ability of this oily phase to segregate during the application of the product on the support and to migrate to the surface of the product. the film thus deposited. However, this system requires a good dispersion of the oily phase in the matrix and can cause problems of stability of the product linked to the necessary poor compatibility of the oily phase with the matrix. It is also known that the improvement of the gloss properties requires a good dispersion of the solid particles in the pigment composition in particular. U.S. Patent 5,945,092 to Revlon also describes the use of silicone surfactants associated with volatile oils. Despite their efficacy, these surfactants have the drawback of being potentially irritant, in particular for the labial mucosa when their percentage in the composition is important (normally greater than 3%). It is thus particularly important to find another means for improving the brilliance of the compositions without transfer without having the drawbacks mentioned above. - iifT | »- 'T? if *'» »-« fa »* In addition, these compositions, although they have improved" no transfer "properties, have the drawback of leaving on the lips, after the evaporation of the volatile oils, a movie that becomes very quickly annoying with the passage of time (feeling of desiccation, restramiento and inconfort) that separates a certain number of women of this type of lipsticks. In addition, the deposit obtained is matt. Now consumers are looking for a bright product, comfortable to wear throughout the day, that does not migrate or that migrates little to the folds of the skin around the lips or eyes and that is not transferred or practically do not transfer. The desire remains for a composition which does not have the drawbacks described hereinabove and which has in particular good "non-transfer" and non-migration properties, also during a pronounced pressure or rubbing, giving the deposit one more aspect or less bright, suitable to the desire of the consumer, that does not dry out or remove the skin or lips in which it is applied, both in the application and with the passage of time. The Applicant has found, quite surprisingly, that the use of a non-volatile silicone compound, of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, titre incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound and a particular volatile solvent, in a physiologically acceptable composition and more especially cosmetic, allows to obtain a bright deposit, of good content, which is transferred little or not transferred, which does not migrate, resistant to water, while it is very pleasant to the application and to carry throughout the day. The deposit is flexible and unctuous. The subject of the present invention is a composition for the care or make-up of keratin materials, comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, at least one non-volatile silicone compound, soluble or dispersible in the volatile hydrocarbon solvent and therefore less a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile hydrocarbon solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 1 2 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 1/2 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 1 2. "Oil" means any liquid non-aqueous medium at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). By "solvent" is meant a liquid non-aqueous medium at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). By "volatile" is meant a means capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips, bit- i - j i in less than one hour. A volatile medium is particularly chosen from media having a vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 10 ~ 3 to 300 mm Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa). Thus, the composition may contain one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and one or more volatile hydrocarbon solvents. This composition is in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Contains ingredients compatible with skin, lips, keratin fibers and nails. It can be in the form of anhydride, emulsion or dispersion gel, oil in water or water in oil or even in the form of multiple emulsion. It can also be presented, in a more or less fluid form, of paste or non-deformable or rigid solid, possibly molded into a bar or a cup. By fluid is meant a composition that spills under its own weight, in reverse of a solid. According to the invention, the non-volatile silicone compound and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil are incompatible with each other, in the absence of the volatile solvent. After depositing the composition on the keratin materials, the volatile solvent evaporates, leaving in particular in these materials the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and - if present - the particle charge. The deposit obtained on the skin or lips, after drying, is homogeneous, shiny and flexible. It leaves practically no trace in an article that comes in contact with the deposit and does not migrate to the wrinkles around the lips in particular. Advantageously, the composition contains at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, coloring matters or mixtures thereof. Thanks to the incompatibility of the non-volatile silicone compound and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, the composition of the invention makes it possible to limit, even suppress the transfer of the composition and in particular the transfer of active and / or coloring matters and thus maintain these active and / or coloring matters where they have been deposited. Another object of the invention is the use in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a composition for the topical application of the combination, of at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, of at least one non-volatile compound of soluble or dispersible silicone in the volatile solvent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm 3) 1 2 <; dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172, as agent, to diminish, or even suppress, the transfer of a film of composition deposited on the skin and / or the lips of the human being towards an article put in contact with the film and / or to preserve its brilliance. Another object of the invention is the use in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a composition for the topical application of the combination, of at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, of at least one non-volatile compound of soluble or dispersible silicone in the volatile solvent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172, as an agent, the composition is non-transferable and / or bright. Another object of the invention is a cosmetic procedure for the care or make-up of the lips, of appendages of the skin, which consists of applying respectively to the lips, appendages or skin a cosmetic composition as defined above. The subject of the invention is also a method for limiting, or even suppressing, the transfer and / or migration of a make-up composition or of the care of the skin or of the lips on a support different from the skin and the lips, which contains at least one ingredient chosen from dyes and cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, consisting of introducing into the composition a system containing at least one non-volatile silicone compound, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound and at least one volatile oil solvent of the non-volatile silicone compound and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, as defined above. It has also been found that the composition according to the invention has particularly interesting exposure and adhesion qualities on the skin and lips, as well as an unctuous and pleasant touch. This composition also has the advantage of removing make-up easily, in particular with a classic make-up milk. This is quite remarkable because prior art compositions having high "non-transfer" properties are very difficult to remove. In general, they are sold with a specific make-up remover, which introduces a complementary tension for the user. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more physiologically acceptable non-volatile silicone compounds.

The volatile silicone compounds of the invention must be soluble or dispersible in the volatile hydrocarbon solvents and in particular in volatile isoalkanes. They are preferably chosen from the liquid compounds at room temperature and their mixtures and even more preferably have a viscosity in the range from 5 to 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C and better from 10 to 5,000 cSt. Examples which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicones, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, silicone resins such as those described in JP-A-62-61911, JP-1-61-65809 and EP-A-602905, fluorinated silicones. and its mixtures. In particular, these silicone compounds are chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxysilicates; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group pendent or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms in which all or part of the hydrogens are replaced by fluorine atoms; silicone resins and their mixtures. Its mass ratio in the final composition is, for example, in the range from 0.5 to 90% and preferably from 5 to 60% and even more preferably from 10 to 50%. The non-volatile silicone compound is preferably in a proportion equal to or greater than that of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, that is, the ratio R defined by: 10% by weight of the non-volatile silicone compound R =% by weight of the hydrocarbon oil is not volatile it is preferably equal to or greater than 1. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of the invention should also be soluble in volatile hydrocarbon solvents such as volatile isoalkanes, but on the contrary should not be soluble in the silicone compounds described above. These hydrocarbon oils are fluid at room temperature and comprise in their chemical structure at least one non-ionic polar group following: -COOH -OH mono or disubstituted (primary or secondary) -P0 ^^^^ agg ^ tófo¿fe -NHR; NR? R2, Rx and R2 optionally form a cyclo and represent a linear or branched alkyl or alkoxy radical of 1 to 20 carbon atoms Ri 'and R2' may be equal to H or to a linear or branched alkyl or alkoxy chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms. and preferably at least two following nonionic polar groups: mono- or disubstituted -COO -OH (primary or secondary) -P04 Ri 'and R2' may be equal to H or to a linear or branched alkyl or alkoxy chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils comprise at least one OH group. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils according to the invention are such that their solubility parameters of HANSEN, dD, dp, dh, are such that: -. .,,? r i. mA ± ,. 1 .,."-.-, .. , . . _ ^ .J ** - .. J .., J. "- j,. ^. ^ JZ mi? Mm.? I **. * - 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and preferably 16.70 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 18.50 (J / cm3) 172 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172 and preferably 4.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172 and still preferably 5.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172 and better than 5.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 6.08 (J / cm3) 172 knowing that da = (dp2 + dh2) 172 The definition of the solubility parameters according to HANSEN is well known to those skilled in the art and in particular is described in the C.M.

HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J.

Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). In accordance with this HANSEN space. dD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON emitted from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - dp characterizes the forces of DEBYE interactions between permanent dipoles; dh characterizes the forces of specific interactions (type of hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.). The parameters dD / dP / d are generally expressed in (J / cm3) 172. In the composition according to the invention, any non-volatile hydrocarbon oil or mixture of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils satisfying the aforementioned ratios can be used. In this case, the solubility parameters of the mixture are determined from the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils taken separately according to the following ratios: dDmel =? X? dp,; dctael =? X? Dp, and dhmel =? X? , where xi represents the volume fraction of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil i in the mixture. It is within the skill of the artisan to determine the amounts of each non-volatile hydrocarbon oil to obtain a mixture of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils satisfying the aforementioned ratios. above. Preferably, the molecular mass of the hydrocarbon oils is greater than 600 g / mol. As an example the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may be mentioned diisostearyl malate, certain mono or polyesters of polyols such as diglyceryl diisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate or even poly (12-hydroxy) stearic acids such as Solsperse 21 000 sold by the Sociedad Zéneca or Arlacel P100 sold by the company Uniqema, their mixtures. Preferably, the diglyceryl diisostearate, the triisostearate of ^ a aßg &tó ^ ito ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ diglyceryl and the poly (12-hydroxy) stearic acids and their mixtures. Its mass proportion in the final composition is preferably comprised in the range from 2.5 to 40% and preferably from 4 to 30% and better from 4 to 15%. As the volatile hydrocarbon solvent which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile solvents having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and their mixtures. In particular, these volatile solvents are chosen from branched alkanes of 8 to 10 carbon atoms, branched esters of 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures. Preferably, these solvents are chosen from isoparaffins of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from petroleum, such as "Isopars", "Permethyl", isododecane or isohexadecane, iso-hexyl neo-pentanoate and their mixtures. Preferably, isododecane or isohexadecane or their mixtures are used. The volatile hydrocarbon solvent (s) according to the invention, in particular, represent a mass ratio of 5 to 90%, preferably 10 to 60% and better than 20 to 50%. The invention may further contain p) at least one additional fatty substance other than the non-volatile silicone compound, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from the waxes, the gums, the pasty fatty substances at room temperature , oils and their mixtures of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin. The additional oily fatty substances of the composition can be between an oil? cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable and in a generally physiologically acceptable manner, in particular chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, volatile or non-volatile. As additional oils usable in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or even sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, pip or grape oils; of sesame or rapeseed, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearaineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, the jojoba oil, of cacao de carite; fluorinated, optionally volatile, partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils, such as methoxynonafluorobutane; Volatile silicone oils such as volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms pending or at the end of the chain silicone such as octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane and mixtures thereof; - its mixtures. The volatile oils or oils of the composition may represent from 0.5% to 90% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 8 to 75%. Volatile oils are favorable to obtaining a film with "no transfer" properties. After the evaporation of these oils, a flexible and homogeneous, shiny and comfortable deposit is obtained on the skin or lips, in which the composition is applied. These volatile oils also facilitate the application of the composition in keratin materials.

These additional silicone and fluorinated volatile oils represent in particular from 0 to 30% by total weight of the composition and better from 0 to 20%. The composition of the invention can advantageously comprise one or more coloring matters containing at least one (or more) powdery compounds and / or one or more fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, for example in a proportion of 0 to 70% of the total weight of the dye. the composition and in particular from 0.01 to 70%. The powdery compound (s) can be chosen from pigments, nacres and fillers commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions and their mixtures. Advantageously, the powdery compounds represent from 0 to 50% (for example from 0.01 to 50%) of the total weight of the composition and better from 1 to 40%. The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, interfering or not, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to color and / or opaque the composition. They can be cited among the mineral pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally treated on its surface, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or serious oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, magnesium violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and the ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of the carbon black, the pigments types D & C and the lacquers to ^^ j ^ jj * ^^^^^ & ra ^ g ^^ yí ^^^^^^^^^^ j ^ base of cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum . The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium or bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the type cited above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The charges can be mineral or organic, laminar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon® powders (Orgasol® by Atochem), poly-beta-alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl-lysine , starch, boron nitride, hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads ( Toshiba Tospearl®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules.

* The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC violet 2, orange DC 5, quinoline yellow. 5 They can represent from 0 to 20% and in particular from 0.01 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue and may represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may further contain one or more cosmetic or dermatological actives such as those conventionally used. As cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients which can be used in the composition of the invention, cite moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, sunscreens. These active ingredients are used in a usual amount by those skilled in the art and in particular at concentrations of 0 to 20% and in particular of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may further comprise, depending on the type of application contemplated, the constituents conventionally used in the domains considered to be present in an amount appropriate to the desired galenic form.

Among the solid waxes at room temperature which can be present in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as the possibly modified beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, waxes of cork or sugar cane fibers, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, mountain wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer's synthesis Tropsch and fatty alcohols of 20 to 60 carbon atoms. Silicone waxes can also be used, among which the alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters and their mixtures can be mentioned. The waxes can be present at a ratio of 0-50% (for example from 0.01 to 50%) by weight of the composition and better from 5 to 20% in order not to diminish much the brilliance of the composition and of the deposited film on the lips and / or the skin. As fatty pasty body, fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 25 to 45 ° C and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s measured in Contraves TV equipped with a mobile MS-r3 or Ms-r4 rotating at 60 Hz. As an example of pasty fatty substance, mention may be made of PDMS having pendant alkyl or alkoxy chains having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as • ^? «« ** stearyl dimethicone; Fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters such as cholesterol esters, vinyl polylaurate, arachidyl propionate, PVP / eisecona copolymer; lanolins and their derivatives such as 5 acetylated lanolins or oxypropylene lanolins and their mixtures. The nature and quantity of waxes, pasty fatty substances and gums are a function of the mechanical properties and textures sought. The composition may further comprise any additive usually used in such compositions, such as thickeners, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, liposoluble polymers such as polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, polyacrylates and silicone polymers. compatible with the fatty phase, as well as the polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives. Of course, the person skilled in the art will choose the optional complementary compound (s) and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition in accordance with the The invention is not substantially or not altered by the contemplated addition. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a usual manner by the person skilled in the art. the technique. They can be presented in the form of a product ^^ j ^ = áÉß = íiife? áí ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ß ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Í.? Í * ¿¿¿¿? - i. molded or poured and for example in the form of a stick or stick or in the form of a cup suitable for direct contact or in a sponge or even in a bag. In particular, they find an application such as molded or cast foundation, shading or molded paper, lipstick, foundation or lip care balm, anti-wrinkle product. They can also be in the form of a flexible paste or even a gel, more or less fluid cream. They can then be foundation or lipstick makeup, lip polish (gloss in Anglo-Saxon terminology), solar products or skin coloring. The compositions of the invention advantageously have a continuous fatty (or lipophilic) phase and are preferably anhydrous and can contain less than 5% water relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be present in particular in the form of an oily gel, paste or stick or even in the form of a vesicle dispersion containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. They may also be in the form of a single or multiple emulsion of continuous oily or aqueous phase, of oily dispersion in an aqueous phase thanks to vesicles containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. These galenic forms are prepared according to the usual methods of the considered domains. Preferably, the composition is a lipstick comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, at least one non-volatile silicone compound, soluble or dispersible in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has parameters of solubility such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 <; dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172, the solvent, the silicone compound and the hydrocarbon oil are as defined above. These topical compositions can in particular constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the neck, the hands or for the body (for example, care cream, solar oil, body gel). ), a makeup composition (for example make-up gel, cream, stick) or a composition for artificial tanning or skin protection. The invention is illustrated in detail in the following examples. The percentages are percentages by weight.

Examples 1 and 2: Lip pencils in the form of "shine" in a bag. The following examples were compared: Phase A Example 1 Example 2 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 11.15% 11.15% Poly (12-hydroxy) stearic acid 4.86% sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by Zénéca cbp preservative cbp antioxidant cpb cbp Phase B microcrystalline wax 7.63% 7.63% ozokerite 5.27% 5.27% Phase C titanium oxide 0.38% 0.38% DC Red No. 7 1.38% 1.38% FDC yellow No. 6 To the lake 2.94% 2.94% kaolin 7.50% 7.50% Phase D phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt) 36.35% 41.21% Phase E isododecano 22.08! 22.08% 100% mass 100% mass Mode of operation The particulate phase C is crushed in phase A with the help of a cylindrical crusher. The polyethylene wax is added immediately and heated to 100 ° C until a complete dissolution of the wax. The phenyltrimethicone is then added at 100 ° C, then the isodecane at 80-90 ° C. After homogenization, the composition can be introduced at 60-80 ° C in appropriate bags. Example 1 has brilliance and non-transfer properties superior to those of example No. 2 Example No. 3: Lipstick in the form of "brightness" in a bag Phase A hydrogenated polyisobutene 11.15% diglyceryl distearate sold under 4.86% the name Salacos 42 by the company Nisshin Oil Mills conservative cbp antioxidant cbp Phase B wax microcristalin.t 7.63% ozokerite 5.27% Phase C titanium oxide 0.38% DC Red No. 7 1.38% FDC yellow No. 6 Al lake 2.94% kaolin 7.50% Phase D phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt) 36.35% Phase E isododecane 22.08% 100% mass Example No. 4: Lipstick in the form of "brightness" in bags Phase A hydrogenated pollosobutene 10.95% poly (12-hydroxyl) stearic acid sold 4.86% under the name Solsperse 21000 by Zénéca alfa bisabolol 0.2% PVP / eicosene copolymer 5.55 % preservative cbp antioxidant cbp Phase B microcrystalline wax 4.35% ozokerite 3.00% Phase C Urirt tjrffaÉnira «mn-t« - -. i f i -se n »..-,. «... **,Item " -. . ^ - tt j. to. . «. «« Titanium oxide 0.28% DC Red No. 7 1.03% FDC yellow No. 6 Al lake 2.19% kaolin 7.00% acrylate copolymer (Polytrap®) 0.5% Phase D phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt) 36..35% Phase E mica 1.2% isododecane 22.08% 100% mass Example 5: Lipstick in bar Phase A hydrogenated polyisobutene 11.00% diglyceryl distearate sold under 4.86% the name Salacos 42 by the company Nisshin Oil Mills PVP / eicosene copolymer 5.00% antioxidant cbp Phase B polyethylene wax (MN * = 400) 10.00% Phase C titanium oxide 0.28% DC Red No. 7 1.03% FDC yellow No. 6 Al lake 2.19% kaolin 7.50% Phase D phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt) 35.00% Phase E mica 1.00% Phase F isododecane 22.08% 100% mass * MN = number average molecular mass.

Mode of operation The particulate phase C is crushed in phase A with the help of a cylindrical crusher. The polyethylene wax is added immediately and heated to 100 ° C until a complete dissolution of the wax. The phenyltrimethicone is then added at 100 ° C, then the isodecane at 80-90 ° C. It can then be poured at 80 - 85 ° C in appropriate molds to obtain bars. The composition of Example 4 has been tested in comparison with a commercial formula of liquid lipstick "Liquid Lip" from REVLON not the association according to the invention of non-volatile silicone compound, volatile hydrocarbon solvent and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. The composition of the invention has been judged to be more or less fluid and brighter than the previous technique. The composition of the invention has been judged brighter after the application and at the same time also much more comfortable. In the application, the two lipsticks do not spill. The content at the time has been judged identical; little is transferred, they are tenacious, so they need a make-up. They fade evenly over time.

Example 6: Lipstick in bar Phase A hydrogenated polyisobutene 14.36% poly (12-hydroxy) stearic acid sold 4.00% under the name Solsperse 21000 by Zénéca _ ^^^ _ ^ (lígjaí | g ^ g¡ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^ j ^ ^ PVP / eicosene copolymer 5.00% alpha-bisabolol 0.40% antioxidant cbp Phase B carnauba wax 2.03% ozokerite 2.40% polyethylene wax (MN * = 650) 2.40% Phase C titanium oxide 1.28% DC Red No. 7 2.90% FDC yellow No. 6 Al lake 3.30% black iron oxide 0.06% kaolin 1.84% Phase D phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt; 34.32% E mica Phase 1.14% Phase F isododecane 17.72% 100% mass t ?? iíi j? tímJÚ. s Operating mode The particulate phase C is ground in phase A with the help of a cylindrical shredder. The wax phase B is then added and heated to 105 ° C until a complete dissolution of the waxes. The phenyltrimethicone is then added at 105 ° C, then the isodecane at 80-90 ° C. It can then be poured at 90 - 100 ° C in appropriate molds to obtain bars of good content that do not spill, do not transfer and are pleasant to carry.

Example 7: Lipstick in bar Phase A hydrogenated polyisobutene 13.82% diglyceryl triisostearate sold 3.85% under the name Salts 43 by the company Nisshin Oil Mills PVP / eicosene copolymer 4.82% alpha bisabolol 0.40% antioxidant cbp Phase B ozokerite 3.40% polyethylene wax (MN * = 500) 11.60% Phase C * ^ ^ J fcr ^ -. ^ ..

DC Red No. 7 2.72% FDC Blue No. 1 Al lake 0.81% brown iron oxide 1.01% black iron oxide 2.01% kaolin 3.94% Phase D phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt) 24.1% Phase E nacre 5.45% Phase F isododecane 22.00% 100% mass MN * = average molecular mass in number. The mode of operation is identical to that of example 6. The cosmetic properties of the bar are identical to those of the bar of example 6.

Example 8: Lipstick in bar Phase A poly 12-hydroxy stearic acid sold 4.00% under the name Solsperse 21000 by Zénéca PVP / eicosene copolymer 3.00% arachidyl propionate 5.00% alpha-bisabolol 0.40% antioxidant cbp Phase B hydrogenated polyisobutene 18.76% bentone 0.54% Phase C ozokerite 3.78% polyethylene wax (MN * = 650¡ 11.22% Phase D titanium oxide 1.80% DC Red No. 7 ca lake 2.90% FDC yellow No. 6 Al lake 3.30% FDC Red No. 21 Al lake 0.60% black iron oxide 0.06% kaolin 1.84% Phase E phenyltrimethicone (1000 cSt, 21.60% Phase F ^^^ - isohexadecane 20.00% 100% mass * MN = number-average molecular mass.

Mode of operation: Phase B is performed by dispersing the bentone in the hydrogenated polyisobutene. The particulate phase D is ground in phase A with the aid of a tricylindrical grinder. The phase B is added immediately, then the waxy phase C. It is heated to 105 ° C until the wax is completely dissolved. Phenyltrimethicone and mica are added immediately at 105 ° C, then isohexadecane at 90-100 ° C. It is then possible to pour the composition at 90-100 ° C in appropriate molds to obtain bars having properties identical to the bar of example 6. It is noted that, in relation to this date, the best method known by the applicant to carry the practice of said invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (31)

1. CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, it is claimed as property, what is contained in the following claims: 1. A composition of care or makeup of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile solvent, at least one silicone compound is not volatile, soluble or dispersible in the volatile solvent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172.
2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.70 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 18.50 (J / cm3) 172.
3. 3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 4.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172.
4. 4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil has a molar mass greater than 600 g / mol.
5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil has a chemical structure comprising at least one polar group selected from -COOH; -OH; -P04; NHR; NR? R2, Rx, R2 optionally form a cyclo and represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkoxy radical of 1 to 20 carbon atoms or; Ri 'and R2' may be equal to H or to a linear or branched alkyl or alkoxy chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
6. 6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil has a chemical structure comprising at least two polar groups selected from among -COOH; -OH; -P04; or Ri 'and R2' may be equal to H or to a linear or branched alkyl or alkoxy chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from diisostearyl malate, mono and polyol polyesters, poly (12-hydroxy) stearic acids and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl tri-isostearate, poly (12-hydroxy) stearic acids and mixtures thereof.
9. 9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in a mass content ranging from 3.5 to 40% and preferably from 4 to 30% and better from 4 to 15%.
10. 10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile siliconized compound is chosen > between the liquid compounds at room temperature and their mixtures.
11. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone non-volatile compound has a viscosity i ^^^^^^^^ s ^^^^^^^ aw chosen from the range of 5 to 10,000 cSt and preferably ranging from 10 to 5,000 cSt.
12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile silicone compound is chosen from the non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); the polydimethylsiloxanes comprise alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group pendant or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms wherein all or part of the hydrogens are replaced by fluorine atoms; silicone resins and their mixtures.
13. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone non-volatile compound represents a maximum rate of 0.5 to 90%, preferably 5 to 60% and better than 10 to 50%.
14. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one ingredient selected from cosmetics, dermatological actives and coloring matters.
15. 15. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from volatile solvents having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and their mixtures.
16. 16. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from the branched alkanes of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched esters of 8 to 14 carbon atoms and their mixtures.
17. 17. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from the isoparaffins of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
18. 18. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
19. 19. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile solvent represents a mass ratio of 5 to 90%, preferably 10 to 60% and better of 20 to 50%.
20. 20. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass molar ratio of the non-volatile silicone compound in relation to the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is greater than or equal to 1.
21. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized because it also comprises at least one fatty substance different from the silicone non-volatile compound, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from among the waxes, the gums, the pasty fatty substances at room temperature, the oils and their mixtures.
22. 22. The composition according to any of claims 14 to 21, characterized in that the coloring matters comprise at least one powdery compound selected from fillers, pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.
23. 23. The composition according to claim 22, characterized in that the powdery compound represents up to 50% of the total weight of the composition.
24. 24. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of stick or stick, in the form of flexible paste, in the form of a cup, of oily gel, of liquid ^^^ ^ ^ oily, vesicular dispersion containing ionic and / or non-ionic lipids, emulsion water in oil or oil in water.
25. 25. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in anhydrous form.
26. 26. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of a foundation, of an eyeshadow or eyelids, a lipstick, a base or lip care balm, of an anti-wrinkle product, an eyeliner, a mask.
27. 27. A lipstick, characterized in that it comprises a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, at least one non-volatile silicone compound soluble or dispersible in the volatile hydrocarbon solvent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the compound non-volatile silicone, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such as 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172.
28. 28. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is used for the manufacture of a composition for topical application, of the combination of at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, of at least one compound not t t i. volatile silicone soluble or dispersible in the volatile solvent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172, as an agent to diminish, or even suppress, the transfer of a film of composition deposited on the skin and / or the lips of the human being towards a support placed in contact with the film and / or to preserve its brilliance .
29. 29. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is used for the manufacture of a topical application composition, of the combination, of at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, of at least one silicone non-volatile compound soluble or dispersible in the volatile solvent and of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil exhibits solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19. C0 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172, the composition is not transferred and / or is bright.
30. 30. A method of cosmetic care or make-up of the lips or skin, characterized in that it consists of applying respectively to the lips or skin .-. * rr .. -. . . .. t a cosmetic composition as defined in claims 1 to 26.
31. 31. A method for limiting, or even suppressing, the transfer of a make-up or skin or lip care composition on a support other than that of the body. skin or of the lips, which contains at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetics or dermatological active ingredients, characterized in that it consists of introducing to the composition a system containing at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent, at least one compound volatile non-volatile silicone soluble or dispersible in the volatile solvent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil soluble in the volatile solvent and incompatible with the non-volatile silicone compound, the hydrocarbon oil has solubility parameters such that 16.40 (J / cm3) 172 < dD < 19.00 (J / cm3) 172 and 2.00 (J / cm3) 172 < da < 9.08 (J / cm3) 172.