MXPA00008476A - Agents and method for treating keratinous fibres - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to agents containing at least 6 wt.%oil components and at least one non-ionogenic emulsifier. The inventive agents take the form of a microemulsion with an average droplet size of less than 400 nanometers and contain a UV radiation-absorbing component A of general formula (I) U-Q, wherein U represents a UV radiation-absorbing group and Q represents a group containing at least one quarternary ammonium function. These agents are excellently suited to protecting keratinous fibres, especially human hair, against UV radiation.

Description

AGENTS AND METHOD FOR TREATING QUERATINOUS FIBERS The invention relates to an agent for the treatment of keratinous fibers, said agent is in the form of a microemulsion, the invention also refers to a method for the treatment of keratinous fibers with the use of said agent . Human hair is currently treated in various ways with cosmetic preparations. Among them are shampoos for hair washing, care and regeneration with rinses and treatments, as well as bleaching, dyeing and hair formation with whitening agents, dyes, wave forming agents, as well as hair shaping preparations . In addition to the specific purpose of using these products, more and more attempts are also made to obtain preventive protection against damage with these means. Among them we can mention the growing importance of the protection against the consequences of an excessive action of the light as it is the case in the mountains and in the maritime zones due to the part of ultraviolet radiations that make up the solar rays. It is known to use agents with inorganic pigments or organic UV filters, for example based on benzophenone or cinnamic acid, for the protection of hair and skin against solar radiation. A disadvantage of these agents, however, especially in the case of rinseable products, is the low substantivity of the active substance on the hair. In general terms, these products can not provide a protective action or offer only limited protective action. An attempt to overcome this situation is found in the development of new derivatives of suitable filter substances which also have a cationic group in addition to the UV radiation absorption part. In this way the substantivity of these substances on the hair is significantly improved. However, a problem arises in the case of the irregular distribution of the absorption filter substance on the hair. These problems can be solved to the extent that fat or oil components are added to the corresponding agents. Problems may also arise in this case in relation to stable formulation products in storage, and especially in the case of products in the form of atomization which reach an acceptable atomization behavior only through the simultaneous addition of organic solvents. However, the use of these solvents is not desirable not only from an ecological perspective, but also because it can negatively affect the healing properties of these agents. It has now been found that the aforementioned problems can be overcome by the use of special cationic substances which absorb ultraviolet radiation in media which are formulated in the form of special microemulsions, which are known, as PIT emulsions. The person skilled in the art knew that the application of ionic components in PIT emulsions usually causes a strong increase in the phase inversion temperature. For this reason, in general terms, the elaboration of these products was dispensed with, either for reasons ^ 10 specific for substance or for economic reasons. This is especially true in the case of quaternary ammonium compounds which, in the amounts usually used, frequently cause an increase in the temperature of the phase inversion of 20-30 ° C, and even above the limit critical of 100 ° C. It is therefore surprising that UV absorbing substances used in accordance with • the present invention with cationic groups does not measurably influence the phase inversion temperature or influence it only in a limited way, that is, in general terms, they increase it well below 15 ° C. The object of the present invention is therefore means for the treatment of keratinous fibers, which contain at least 6% by weight of an oil component as well as at least a non-ionogenic emulsifier and having a microemulsion form with a mean diameter of small droplets of less than 400 nanometers, which also contains a UV absorption component A of the general formula (I), U-Q (I) in where U represents a group that absorbs UV radiation and Q is a group that contains at least one quaternary ammonium function. Among the keratinous fibers we understand according to the present invention animal skins, wool, feathers and especially human hair. The agents according to the present invention contain an oil component as the first essential component. As an oil component, in principle, all water-insoluble oils and water-insoluble fats, as well as their mixtures with paraffin and solid waxes, are especially suitable. As insoluble in water we understand according to the present invention agents whose solubility in water at a temperature of 20 ° C is less than 0.1% by weight. The melting point of the individual oil or grease components should, as far as possible, be below the phase inversion temperature of the system and especially below about 40 ° C. Oil and grease components which, at room temperature, ie below 25 ° C, are in the liquid state, can be especially preferred according to the present invention. In the case of the use of various components of oil and fat as well as possibly paraffins and solid waxes, in general terms, it is sufficient when the mixture of oil and grease components as well as possibly paraffins and waxes meets these conditions. A preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils. Examples of such vegetable oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat grain oil, peach bone oil, and the liquid parts of coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils may also be used, such as the liquid parts of beef tallow and oils of synthetic triglycerides. An additional group of compounds that can be used in accordance with the present invention as components of • oil are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbon oils such as di-n-alkyl ether with a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, especially with a total of 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecylether, di- n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecylether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecylether as well as di-tert- butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecylether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The 1,3- • M di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE) compounds which are commercially available preferred. Also as oil components that can be used according to the present invention we can mention fatty acid esters and esters of fatty alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids are preferred with alcohols with • 10 3 to 24 carbon atoms. In this group of agents these are products of fatty acid esterification with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, capric acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanic acid, myristic acid, acid palmitic, palmoleinic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linolic acid, linolenic acid, acid • elaeostearic, arachidic acid, gadoleinic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, as for example by the forced division of natural acids and oils, by reducing aldehydes from roelen oxosynthesis or from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids with alcohols such as, for example, isopropyl alcohol, capric alcohol, caprinic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol , gadolelic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brasidilic alcohol as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained for example from fats and oils or aldehydes of the roelen oxosynthesis as well as in the form of a monomeric fraction in the case of dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred according to the present invention are isopropyl myristate, C 16-18 alkyl ester of isononanic acid (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl ester of stearic acid (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerin tricaprylate, caprinate / caprylate, coconut fatty alcohol and n-butyl stearate. Finally, esters of dicarboxylic acids, such as, for example, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacetate, and also diol ester, such as, for example, dioleate of ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol diistridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate and neopentiglycol di-capilate can be used as oil components according to the present invention. invention. The total amount of fat and oil components in the agents of the present invention usually ranges from 6 to 45% by weight in relation to the total agent. Amounts of 10 to 35% by weight are preferred according to the present invention. As a second essential element, the agents according to the present invention contain a non-ionogenic emulsifier. Such non-ionogenic emulsifiers are, for example: - addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - monoesters and diesters of C2-C22 fatty acids of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide in polyol with 3 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially in glycerin, addition products of ethylene oxide and polyglycerin in fatty acid esters methylglucoside, fatty acid alkanolamide and glucamide of fatty acids, alkyl monoglycosides and C8-C: 2 alkyl oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where grades are preferred of oligomerization from 1.1 to 5, especially from 1.2 to 1.4, and - glucose as a component of sugar, - addition products from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide in castor oil and hardened castor oil , as well as partial esters of polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms 5 with saturated fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The agents according to the present invention contain the preferred non-ionogenic emulsifiers in amounts of 4 to 15% by weight, especially 6 to 10% by weight, relative to the overall agent. • Preferably, according to the present invention, they contain at least one non-ionogenic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18, in accordance with the definitions presented in Ropp-Lexi on Chemie (published by J. Falbe, M. Regitz ), lOma. edition, Georg, Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764. Non-ionogenic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be especially preferred in accordance with the present • invention. Among the types of non-ionogenic emulsifiers mentioned, ethoxylated fatty alcohols with 8 to 12 carbon atoms and 4 to 30 units of EO are preferred. An additional essential component of the agent according to the present invention is represented by the absorption components A of special UV irradiation which are represented generally abbreviated as UV Absorber A.

These UV absorbers A have the general structure U-Q. flfe The structural part U refers to a group of absorption of UV radiation. This group can be derived in principle from 5 UV filters employable in the field of cosmetics, known, where a group, in general terms, a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter, is replaced with a group Q with a quaternary amino function . The compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example: - substituted benzophenones such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2,4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone , 2, 2 '-dihydroxy-4, 4-v-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and 2,2-dihydroxy-4,4% sulfonate-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium, - esters of p-aminobenzoic acid, - diphenylacrylic acid esters such as 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylic acid ethyl ester and 2'-ethylhexyl ester of 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylic acid, - cinnamic acid ester such as for example octyl methoxycinnamate, - salicylic acid ester such as for example octyl salicylate, 25-benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic IB acid amide or N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the present invention. The structural parts U can be selected, in principle, in such a way that the maximum absorption of the UV absorbers A is both in the range of UVA (3 15-40 0 nm), and in UVB (280-315 nm ) - or UVC (< 280 nm). Especially preferred are UV absorbers A with a absorption maximum in the UVB zone, especially in the region of approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm. In addition, the structural part U, also with respect to the structural part Q, is preferably selected in such a way that the molar extinction coefficient of the absorber of UV A is, at the maximum absorption, above 15,000, especially above 20,000. The structural part Q necessarily contains an ammonium group • Quaternary This quaternary ammonium group can be linked in principle directly with the structural part U of such so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, preferably one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group with 2 to 6. carbon atoms, which serves as a union between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the group Q has the general structure - (CH2) -X- N + R1R2R3 X; wherein x represents an integer from 1 to 4, - R 1 and R 2, independently of each other, represent C? -4 -4 alkyl groups, R 3 represents a C?-22 alkyl group, or a benzyl group and X "represents a physiologically compatible anion Within the framework of this global structure x preferably represents the number 3, R1 and R2, each, • 10 represent a methyl group and R3 represents either a methyl group or a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Physiologically compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions as well as organic anions such as lactate, citrate, • acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and toxylate. Two especially preferred UV A absorbers are the Compounds which can be obtained as commercial products are aminopropymethylammonium chloride of cinnamic acid (Incroquat® UV-283) and tosylate of dodecyl-di-ethylaminobenzap? Dopropyl-dimethylammonium (Escalol® HP 610). The UV absorbers A are found in the agents of In accordance with the present invention, usually in amounts of 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total agent. Amounts of 1.0 to 2.5% by weight are preferred. < In addition, water is an essential component of the agents according to the present invention. Finally, the agents according to the present invention must be in the form of a microemulsion with a mean diameter of small droplets of less than 400 nm, especially less than 200 nm. By microemulsions we understand, within the framework of • 10 present invention, the "PIT" emulsions? In these emulsions, it is, in principle, systems with 3 components: water, oil and non-ionogenic emulsifiers, which are found as oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion at temperature environment, through heating, these systems form, in a certain temperature range (it is commonly known as phase inversion temperature or "PIT") microemulsions, which through further heating are transformed into water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. By cooling, they form again O / W emulsions, which however at room temperature are in the form of microemulsions with a mean diameter of small particles of less than 400 n, especially with a diameter of small particles of about 100 to 300 nm. Specific data on these low systems viscosity, very stable, for which the term "PIT emulsions" is generally used, can be obtained in numerous printed documents, as representatives of them? We can mention the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Sci 58, 119-149 (1995). In accordance with the present invention, microemulsions or "PIT" emulsions of this type having a mean particle diameter of about 200 nm may be preferred. The development of microemulsions in accordance with the The present invention can be carried out as, for example, to the extent that the phase inversion temperature of the system is first determined, by heating a sample of an emulsion prepared in a customary manner, and with the use of a device measuring the conductivity, the temperature at which the conductivity drops strongly is determined. The lowering of the specific conductivity of the O / W emulsion present is observed, in • general terms, in a temperature range of 2 to 8 ° C from originally more than 1 mS / cm to values lower than 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range. After knowing in this way the range of phase inversion temperatures, the emulsion elaborated in a customary manner can be heated from oil components, non-ionogenic emulsifier, At least parts of water as well as optional additional components, at a temperature that is within the temperature range of inversion of phase or above said range of temperature of phase inversion, cooling it later and eventually adding additional components as well as Water. Alternatively, it is also possible to carry out the production of the microemulsion directly at a temperature that is within the range of phase inversion temperatures or above said range of phase inversion temperatures. The microemulsion made in this way is then cooled to a temperature below the range of phase inversion temperatures, usually at room temperature. Apart from the essential components, the agents according to the present invention can contain, according to the respective purpose, additional components whose influence on the phase inversion temperature can play a determining role for the capacity of use of individual compounds. In accordance with a preferred modality, the agents according to the present invention contain, in addition to the oil components that have a care effect, in many cases at least one additional care component. These additional care components are selected, in general terms, from non-ionogenic compounds. However, especially when used in small amounts, ionic care compounds should not be excluded in principle. In this case, the influence of these fl ionic compounds on the phase inversion temperature must be determined. In general terms, only 5 ionic compounds are used whose influence on the phase inversion temperature does not present any additional problem for manufacturing. The elements of care are known to the person skilled in the art. Examples of substances of this type are presented below: • fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols used can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. For example, within the framework of the present invention, they can be used decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucaic alcohol, ricinolic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, alcohol caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenílico alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their alcohols of Guerbet, where this list is presented only by way of example and is not limiting. Fatty alcohols, however, come from natural fatty acids Preferred, so that usually it is possible to start from a preparation from esters of fatty acids by reduction. In accordance with the present invention, the fractions of • Fatty alcohols that are made through the reduction of natural triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, wool seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and oil. flax or from esters of fatty acids that are products of esterification with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols are preferably used in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. 15 • Protein hydrolysates of animal and preferably plant origin, such as elastin hydrolysates, collagen, keratin, albumin, soy protein, protein • Silk, oat protein, pea protein, almond protein and wheat protein, its products condensation with fatty acids as well as quaternized protein hydrolysates. • Vitamins and vitamin precursors such as niacinic acid and niacinic acid amide, additional B vitamins, vitamin F and especially biotin. Also preferred within this group of panthenol care substances are their derivatives, especially the panthenol esters and ethers as well as the cationic derivative panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether, and its monoacetate, as well as the cationic panthenol derivatives presented in WO 92/13829. Panthenol is preferred within this group. • Monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, mannose and lactose.

• Plant extracts, which are usually made by extracting the whole plant, in some cases also exclusively from the flowers and / or leaves of the plant. In relation to the present invention, the plant extracts which can be used are in particular extracts appearing on sheet 44 of the third edition of Leitfadens zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel, published by Industrieverband K? Rperpflege- and Waschmittel e. V (IKW), Frankfurt, initial table. In accordance with the present invention, extracts of oak bark, nettle, hops, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flower, almond, aloe vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mauve, cardamine, serpil, achillea, thyme, lemon balm, catfish, coltsfoot, altea, ginseng as well as ginger root. Extracts of almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi and melon are especially preferred. According to the present invention, mixtures of several, especially two different plant extracts, can also be used. As an extraction medium for preparing the mentioned plant extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. By alcohols we mean lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, especially however polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol, both as unique extraction media or as a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 are especially suitable. The plant extracts can, according to the present invention, be used either pure or in diluted form. Insofar as they are used in diluted form, they usually contain from about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extraction medium or the mixture of extraction media that is filled to be obtained. • Honey extracts obtained in a manner analogous to plant extracts and usually containing from 1 to 10% by weight, especially from 3 to 5% by weight of active substance. Mixtures of water / propylene glycol can also be preferred as extraction medium. • Ceramides. • Phospholipids such as soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalin. • Silicone oils, especially dialkylarylsiloxane and alkylarylsiloxane, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their alkoxylated and quaternized analogues. Examples of such silicones are those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 as well as the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 of Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamidomethicone), emulsion 929 from Dow Corning® (contains a silicone modified with hydroxylamino, which is also known as amidomethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) as well as Abil®- Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; dicuternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80). • Alkylaminoamines usually made through the amidation of fatty acids and sections of natural or synthetic fatty acids with dialkylaminoamines. Typical examples of fatty acids of this type are capronic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linolic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, as for example by the division by pressure of natural fats and oils, by reducing aldehydes to from Roelen oxosynthesis, or from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Most preferably, fatty acid sections are obtained which are obtained from coconut oil or palm oil; the use of stearic acid is especially preferred in general terms. A particularly suitable compound according to the present invention of this group of substances is represented by the stearamidopropyldimethylamine which is commercially available under the designation Tegoa id® S18. • • Esterquats, especially quaternized fatty acid triethanolaminester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds type, especially halogenides of ammonium such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride, and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, for example, • flB cetyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate as well as the imidazolinium compounds known under the designations of INCI _ Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. 10 • Cationic polymer, especially those containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, which are commercially available under the designation Celquat® and 15 Polymer JR® (especially the products Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR® 400), dimethyldiallylammonium salts and its copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, which are available commercially under the designations Merquat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium acrylamide chloride copolymer) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternary derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate such as for example copolymers of dimethyl-aminoalkyl vinylpyrrolidone methacrylate quaternized with diethylsulfate (for example the commercial products Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755), copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolinium metachloride , as can be found under the designation Luviquat®, alco polyquaternized quaternized as well as the known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone that are known under the designations Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27. • 10 jOther compounds refer to known sources I for example K. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2nd. Edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heiderlberg, 1989. The additional care components are found in the agents according to the present invention of jpreference in amounts of 0.05 to 10, especially 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the active substance of the • component of care and the total agent. I In accordance with a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the present invention contain, apart from the UV absorber A, another additional UV filter. For this purpose, all usual UV filters can be used in the field of cosmetics; Oil-soluble UV filters as well as substances with a maximum absorption in the UVB range can be used in accordance with the present invention. With regard to the additional UV filters commonly used, reference is made to the above (? k above) Preferred additional UV filters are 2-ethylhexyl ester of 3,3-diphenyl-2-cyanoacrylic acid (OCTOCRYLENE), 4-methoxy-cinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (OCTILE METOXYCINAMATE), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BENZOPHENONE-3), isoamyl ester of 4-methoxycinnamic acid (P-METHYLOXAMINAMATE OF ISOAMYL) and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PHENYLBENZYMENZYL-ZAZOLSULFONIC ACID). These filters • 10 additional UV's are preferably used in the agents according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 7, especially 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total agent. In accordance with a first embodiment of the invention, the Preparations according to the present invention are formulated as hair rinses or hair treatment. Hair rinses are formulated, • in general terms in such a way that a wash of the active substances is contemplated after a period of time The desired action with water or with an at least essentially aqueous agent. The contact time with the hair in general is short. Treatments for hair contain the combination of active substances in a higher concentration than hair rinses and are contemplated for the treatment of very damaged hair. The action time can be short, for example, in a range of time corresponding to the time of action of the rinses for the hair, but they can also reach up to 20 minutes depending on the degree of hair damage. The treatments for the hair according to the present invention can be washed after the end of the action time, with water or with an agent containing essentially water; however, they can also remain in the hair. These means can preferably be formulated as foam, especially however as dews. For this purpose they may contain driving gases. In this variant, however, the spray formulation with air as the driving agent is preferred. In accordance with additional modalities, it may be However, cleaning agents such as shampoo, stiffening agents such as for example hair sprays and corrugations, permanent-forming agents such as for example fixatives and permanent agents, coloring agents such as for example agents for obtaining hair blonde, oxidation dye agents and nuance media based on direct dyes, hair lotions and fluids for hair tips. Correspondingly, the viscosities of the preparations can be adjusted according to the objective. In addition the present invention It also contemplates products which are separately packaged preparations containing at least one agent according to the present invention and also at least one additional preparation containing, for example, oxidation dyeing products or oxidation agents. These 5 preparations packed separately are then mixed either directly before the application or directly on the hair. Additional customary parts of the preparations according to the present invention, wherein especially in the case of ionic compounds are always considered the aforementioned limitations with regard to the ranges of temperature of phase transition, can be: - anionic, zwitterionic polymers, amphoteric and non-ionic such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate / crotonic acid, polydimethylsiloxane, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methylvinyl ether / anhydride copolymers of maleic acid and its esters, polyacrylic acids not crosslinked and crosslinked with polyols, copolymers of acryl-aminopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate, copolymers of octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate / vinylcaprolactam, as well as optionally derived cellulose ethers. • - Anionic surface active agents such as especially alkyl sulfate, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate and carboxylic acid acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and with up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, as well as monoalkylester and dialkyl ester of sulfosuccinic acid with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the The alkyl group and onoalkyl polyoxyethyl ester of sulfosuccinic acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. - Zwitterionic surfactants, especially betaines, such as, for example, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocosalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, example, cocosacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline each time with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group or in the acyl group as well as the cocosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. - Ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkylaminoiminopropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid. each time with from about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the algeryl group, foam removers such as silicone, thickening agents such as for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginate, xanthan gum, gelatin, pectin, hydroxyethylcellulose as well as polyacrylamides and their copolymers, - structural agents such as, for example, maleic acid, - Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrin, - Solvents such as, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol, - Coloring agents for coloring the agent, - Anti-caking agents such as, for example, pyroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, - Additional substances for adjusting the pH value, - Active substances such as for example allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and bisabolol, - additional agents for protection against light, - consistency agents such as for example sugar esters, polyol esters and polyalkyl ethers, - fats and waxes such as whale sperm, wax of bee, mountain wax and paraffin, - Swelling and penetration agents with, for example, glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, guanidine, ureas as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, - Opacity agents such as latex, styrene / PVP copolymers and styrene / acrylamide, - glitter agents such as, for example, monostearate and distearate ethylene glycol as well as distearate of PEG-3, Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, beta-alanindiacetic acid, and phosphonic acids, - Direct dyes, - Developing and coupler components such as, for example, oxidation dye initiators, - Reducers as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and alpha-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, - Oxidation agent such as for example hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate, Impeller such as for example mixtures of propane-butane, N20 , dimethyl ether, C02, N2 and air as well as - Antioxidants. The pH value of the preparations according to the present invention can, in principle, be between 2 and 11, so that the person skilled in the art will take into account known instabilities such as, for example, the basic body panthenol in an alkaline medium. The pH value of the medium according to the present invention is preferably between 2 and 7, so values of 3 to 6 are especially preferred. To adjust this pH value, almost all acids can be used for cosmetic purposes. Usually edible acids are used. By edible acids we understand acids that are obtained within the framework of the habitual food intake and that have positive effects on the human organism. The edible acids are for example acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid, and gluconic acid. Within the framework of the present invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is especially preferred. The object of the present invention is also a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, through which an agent according to one of claims 1 to 11 is applied on the fibers and after a time of action from about 1 second to about 30 minutes it is washed again. The following examples are intended to explain more precisely the object of the present invention. Application Examples All amounts in the following examples are parts by weight, unless otherwise indicated. 1. lotion for UV protection (a) Cetio ^ SN1 20.0 (a) Cutina®E 242 5.3 (a) Cutina®GMS3 3.6 (a) Incroquat®UV-2834 2.0 (a) Neo Heliopan®BB5 1.0 (a) Perfume oil 1.0 (b) Panthenol 0.2 (b) Water, without salt, up to 100 1 C16-C18 alkyl ester of isononanic acid (INCI designation: Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetearyl isononanoate)) (HENKEL) 2 glycerin monostearate + 24 EO (INCI designation) : PEG-20 Glyceril Stearate (glyceryl stearate)) 3 glycerin monostearate (INCI designation: Glyceril Stearate (glyceryl stearate)) (HENKEL) 4 trimethyl cinnamic aminopropylamino chloride (INCI designation: Cinnamidopropyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride (cinnamyl chloride) idopropyltrimethylammonium) (CRODA) 5 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI designation: Benzophenone-3) (benzophenone-3) (HAARMANN &REIMER) Manufacturing: two separate mixtures containing the components described in (a) and ( b) respectively at a temperature of 85 ° C. Then both mixtures are mixed at a temperature of 85 ° C and cooled under constant agitation. 2. Treatment for sprayable hair, permanent (a) Monomuls® 60-35C6 1.7 (a) Eumilgin® Bl7 3.5 (a) Cetiol® S8 7.2 (a) Cetiol® OE9 7.2 (a) Dow Corning® 344-EU-Fluid10 3.6 ( a) Escalol® HP61011 1.5 (a) Perfume oil qs (a) Conservative agent q.s. (b) Glycerin 2.0 (b) Water up to 100 6 mono-diglyceride of fatty acid based on hardened palm oil (INCI designation: Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) (HENKEL) 7 cetylstearyl alcohol + 12EO (INCI designation) : Ceteareth-12) (HENKEL) 8 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -cciohexane (INCI designation: dioctylcyclohexane) (HENKEL) 9 di-n-octyl-ether (INCI designation: Dicaprylil Ether (dicaprylyl ether)) (HENKEL 10 octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (INCO designation: Cyclomethicone (cyclomethicone)) (DOW CORNING) 11 dodecyl-dimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-dimethylammoniotosylate (ISP) Preparation: as in Example 1 3. Repair lotion, light (a) Emulgade® SE12 4.5 (a) Eumulgin ® B213 1.0 (a) Cetiol® LC14 5.0 (a) Cetiol® OE 5.0 (a) Incroquat® UV-283 1.0 (a) Preservative agent qs (b) Glaudin® W4015 0.5 (b) Water, demineralized ad 100 12 mixture of partial glycerides-fatty alcohols-fatty alcohol ethoxylates-wax ester (INCI designation: Glyceril Stearate (y) Ceteareth-20 (y) Ceteareth-12 (y) Cetearyl Alcohol (y) Cetil Palmitate (glyceryl stearate (y) ceteareth-20 (y) cetearet-12 (y) cetearyl alcohol (y) cetyl palmitate)) (HENKEL) 13 cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (designation INCI: Ceteareth-20 (cetearet-20)) (HENKEL) 14 Capric acid-capric acid-fatty alcohol ester C12-18 (INCI designation: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (caprylate / coconut caprate)) (HENKEL) 15 hydrolyzate of wheat protein (40% active substance in water: INCI designation: Aqua (y) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (y) Sodium Benzoate (y) Phenoxyethanol (y) Methylparaben, (y) Propylparaben (Aqua (y) hydrolysed wheat protein (and) sodium benzoate (and) phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben, (and) propylparaben)) (HENKEL) Preparation: as Example 1 4. Repair lotion, sprayable Emulgade® SE 4.5 (a) Eumulgin® B2 1.0 (a) Cetiol® LC 5.0 (a) Cetiol® OE 5.0 (a) Escalol® HP610 0.5 (a) Preservative agent q.s. (b) Promois® Silk 100 Q16 0.5 (b) Panthenol 0.5 (b) Water, demineralized to 100 16 silk protein hydrolyzate (approximately 7% active substance in water, INCI designation: Aqua (y) Hydrolyzed Silk (Aqua ( and) hydrolysed silk)) (INTERORGANA) Preparation: as in example 1 5. Hair protection lotion (a) Emulgade® SE 4.5 (a) Eumulgin® B2 1.0 (a) Cetiol® S 5.0 (a) Cetiol® OE 5.0 (a) Escalol® HP610 1.25 (a) Preservative agent qs (a) Neo Heliopan® BB 0.75 (b) Water up to 100 Preparation: as Example 1 6. Protection lotion for strong hair (a) Emulgade® SE 4.5 (a) Eumulgin® B2 1.0 (a) Cetiol® S 5.0 (a) Cetiol® OE 5.0 (a) Escalol® HP610 2.0 (a) Neo Heliopan® BB 1.5 (a) Copherol®F 130017 0.3 (a) Water up to 100 17 D-alpha-tocopherol (85% active substance: designation INCI: Tocopherol) (HENKEL CORP.) Preparation: as example 1 7. Hair repair, sprayable Emulgade® SE 4.5 (a) Eumulgin® B2 1.0 (a) Cetiol® S 5.0 (a) Cetiol® OE 5.0 (a) Incroquat® UV-283 1.0 (a) Copherol®F 1300 0.2 (b) Panthenol 1.0 (b) Water up to 100 17 D-alpha-tocopherol (85% active substance: INCI designation: Tocopherol) (HENKEL CORP.) Preparation: as Example 1 8. Sun protection balm (a) Emulgade® SE 1.6 (a) Eumulgin® B2 0.4 (a) Cetiol® OE 5.5 (a) Myritol® 31818 0. 5 (a) Escalol® HP610 1.0 (b) Neo Heliopan® Hydro19 1.5 (b) Hydagen® B20 1.0 (b) Carbopol® 598421 (2% in water) 8.0 (b) NaOH, 1% 4.0 (b) Demineralized water up 100 18 fatty acid triglyceride (INCI designation: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (caprylic triglyceride / whim)) (HENKEL) 19 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI designation: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid)) (HAARMANN &REIMER) 20 D, L-alpha-bisabolol (85% active substance; INCI: Bisabolol) (HENKEL) 21 polyacrylic acid (INCI designation: Carbomer (carbomer)) (BF GOODRICH) Preparation: as example 1 9. Intensive (permanent) sun protection lotion (a) Emulgade® SE 8.0 (a) Eumulgin® B2 2.0 (a) Almond oil 2.0 (a) Eutanol® G22 2.0 (a) ) Cetiol® 86823 9.0 (a) Incroquat® UV-283 0.5 (a) Neo Heliopan® BB 1.0 (a) Neo Heliopan® AV24 1.0 (b) Glycerin, 86% 5.0 (b) Water, demineralized to 100 22 alcohol 2 -octyldodecyl (INCI designation: OCTYLDODECANOL) (HENKEL) 23 2-ethylhexyl ester of stearic acid (INCI designation: Octyl Stearate (octyl stearate)) (HENKEL) 24 (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxycinnamic acid ester (INCI designation: Octyl Methoxycinnamate (octyl methoxycinnamate)) (HAARMANN &REIMER) Preparation: as Example 1 10. Emulsion sunscreen, sprayable Emulgade® SE 4.7 (a) Eumulgin® B2 1.3 (a) Cetiol® 868 6.0 (a) ) Cetiol® SN 6.0 (a) Escalol® HP 610 2.0 (a) Neo Heliopan® E 100025 4.0 (a) Neo Heliopan® BB 1.0 (a) Copherol® F 1300 1.0 (b) Glycerin a l 86% 5.0 (b) Water up to 100 flb 25 3-methyl (4-methoxyphenyl) -2-prophenic acid 3-methylbutyl ester) (INCI designation: Isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate (isoamyl-p-5 methoxycinnamate)) (HAARMANN & amp;; REIMER) Preparation: as example 1 • 20

Claims (4)

1. CLAIMS 1. An agent for the treatment of keratinous fibers fl containing at least 6% by weight of an oil component as well as at least one non-ionogenic emulsifier 5 and which is in the form of a microemulsion with an average smaller droplet size 400 nanometers, characterized in that it also contains a component A that absorbs UV radiation of the general formula (I), 10 U-Q (I) where U represents a group that absorbs UV radiation and Q represents a group containing the minus one quaternary ammonium function.
2. 2. An agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the group Q according to the formula (I) has the general structure - (CH2) X- N + R1R2R3 X "where x represents an integer of 1 to 4, R1 and R2, independently of each other, represent C1-4 alkyl groups, R3 represents a C1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X "represents a physiologically compat anionic group.
3. 3. An agent according to claim 2, characterized in that at least two of the groups R1, R2 and R3 are methyl groups.
4. 4. An agent according to any of claims 5 to 5, characterized in that the group U is selected in such a way that the compound A has a maximum absorption in the UVB region. 6. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that compound A has a molar extinction coefficient at an absorption maximum of at least 15,000. 7. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains 10 at least one component of vegetable oil. 8. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains a non-ionogenic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that as non-ionogenic emulsifier contains at least one • ethoxylated fatty alcohol. 10. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains at least one additional component for care. 11. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains an additional UV filter. 12. An agent according to any of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is formulated as a spray. A process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, characterized in that an agent according to any of claims 1 to 11 is applied to the fibers and after an action time of about 1 second to about 30 seconds it is washed again.