DE102009003152A1 - Hair remover with acetylpyridinium salts - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic hair remover, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and at least one Acetylpyridiniumderivat of formula (I), $ F1 for improving the care state of the fibers, for the reduction of hair damage inside the hair and to increase the elasticity of the hair. The funds allow the creation of a permanent, flexible and well-groomed hairstyle.

Description

The The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions based on a combination of an acetylpyridinium salt with at least a film-forming and / or setting polymer, a Haarumformungsverfahren with this remedy and the use of the hair care product and / or for strengthening the hair fiber structure and / or temporary Deformation of human hair.

Human Hair is used today in a variety of ways with hair cosmetics Treated preparations. These include cleaning hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and cures, as well as the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the Hair with coloring, tinting, waving and styling preparations.

The heavy use of hair - for example, through the oxidative staining or perming, by the frequent Cleaning the hair with shampoos and the subsequent Drying with hairdryer heat, by mechanical loads such as combing and hairdressing or environmental pollution, such as sunlight, seawater or chlorine water - leads to the hair both externally and damaged in their structure. These Damage becomes visible and manifests itself in an unattractive appearance of the hair, such as lack of smoothness, lack of softness, lack of shine, a worse combing, hair breakage or split ends.

Therefore It has long been common for hair with toiletries to treat, which are to counteract these hair damage or to reduce the symptoms of these hair damage should. The skin care products are intended for the hair and / or the scalp Caring substances that give the hair a nice appearance again Give appearance and strengthen the hair structure as well Maintain the scalp or protect it from drying out.

It was found that the hair due to said damage to lose volume and resilience and get through temporary Hair remover only unsatisfactory in a long, flexible Make hairstyle hold. The deformed injured Hair also looks sticky and unnatural.

Around the different requirements of hair shaping also of injured To meet hair, has already been a variety of synthetic Developed polymers that are used in styling agents. The polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and subdividing amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, the hair styling agents will result in use on the hair a polymer film, on the one hand the hairstyle one provides strong support, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible, so as not to break when loaded. Is the polymer film too brittle, it comes to the formation of so-called Filmplaken, that is Residues that are involved in the movement of the hair replace and give the impression of the user of the corresponding Styling agent would have dandruff.

styling agents to develop all the desired properties in combination are still causing difficulties.

task The present invention was therefore a means for temporary Deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available to provide that by a long-lasting, flexible degree of hold and characterized by a high care effect and in particular a Restructuring of the hair fiber causes. The desired structuring Effect on the hair fiber is already in the hair existing damage in the sense of a "repair effect" undone do. In particular, there is a particular focus on providing a means which not only by acting on the outside Layer of hair (cuticle) unfolded a care effect, but which is able to diffuse into the hair fiber and into this Way strengthening the hair fiber over the whole Cross section of the cortex causes. The treated and transformed hair of course, d. H. do not stick together.

to Quantification of the strength of the hair fiber structure often the pull-stretch properties of individual hair fibers certainly. Traverse the resulting force-strain curves three different areas, resulting from tensile-strain measurements in Hook's range (up to 5% elongation) the elastic modulus (Modulus of elasticity, Young's modulus) as a characteristic measure determine.

superficial Damage or abrasion damage, which mainly affect the cuticle, change the tensile-strain values only slightly.

Damage with a negative impact on the structure of the cortex and the strength of hair re Substances which improve the strength of the hair structure lead to an increase in the modulus of elasticity. The determination of tensile strain values and in particular of the modulus of elasticity is therefore an optimal measurement method for the identification of substances having a hair-structuring effect.

Completely surprising could now be found that it is possible the aforementioned To solve tasks by means of hair shaping available be placed next to at least one film-forming and / or fixing polymer at least one Acetylpyridiniumderivat of the type an acetylpyridinium salt.

The substance class of the acetylpyridinium derivatives according to the invention is already known from the literature as a means of producing dyeings on hair ( DE 197 45 356 ) or hair lightening agents ( DE 10 2007 047685 ) known.

• a) mindestens ein filmbildendes und/oder festigendes Polymer, und
• b) mindestens ein Acetylpyridiniumderivat der Formel (I),
  
  worin R1 für eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Alkenylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkoxy-(C₂ bis C₆)-alkylgruppe, eine Carboxy-(C₁ bis C₆)-alkylgruppe, eine Aryl-(C₁ bis C₆)-alkylgruppe, eine Heteroaryl-(C₁ bis C₆)-alkylgruppe, eine Arylgruppe oder eine Heteroarylgruppe und X^– für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion stehen.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic hair treatment composition containing in a cosmetic carrier

• a) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, and
• b) at least one acetylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I),
  
  wherein R _{1 is} a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkenyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkoxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group, a carboxy (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group, an aryl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group, a heteroaryl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group, an aryl group or a Heteroaryl group and X ^- stand for a physiologically acceptable anion.

It has shown that such funds are capable, in particular to strengthen the hair in its fiber interior and structural damage to reduce. Overall, a "repair effect" is observed when using the agent. The achieved hairstyling looks natural, is long-lasting and flexible.

The agents containing the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. This cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. Such carriers are for example creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 40% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

preferred Means are characterized by being additional a non-aqueous solvent, wherein particularly preferred agents according to the invention Solvent in a concentration of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20 wt .-%, especially preferably in a concentration of 2 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the means included.

When first essential ingredient containing the inventive An acetylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I). The following are examples of as substituents the radicals of the compounds of the formula (I) are listed:

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ .

Examples of a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkenyl group are a prop-2-enyl group (allyl group), a 2-methyl-prop-2-enyl group, a but-3-enyl group, a but-2-enyl group, a pent -4-enyl group or a pent-3-enyl group, wherein the prop-2-enyl group is preferred. Examples of a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group are -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₃ and -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, where the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH is preferred.

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkoxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl groups are the groups -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of a carboxy (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group are the carboxymethyl group, the 2-carboxyethyl group or the 3-carboxypropyl group.

Examples of aryl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.

Examples of a heteroaryl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group are the pyridin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-3-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-4-ylmethyl group, the pyrimidin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyrrol-1-ylmethyl group, the pyrrol-1-ylethyl group, the pyrazol-1-ylmethyl group or the pyrazol-1-ylethyl group.

Examples for an aryl group, the phenyl group is the 1-naphthyl group or the 2-naphthyl group.

Examples for a heteroaryl group are the pyridin-2-yl group, the pyridin-3-yl group, the pyridin-4-yl group, the pyrimidin-2-yl group, the pyrrol-1-yl group, the pyrrol-2-yl group, the pyrazol-1-yl group, the Pyrazol-3-yl group or the pyrazol-2-yl group.

In one embodiment of the present invention, preference is given to those compounds of the formula (I) in which the radical R of the general structure (I) is a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkenyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the radical R is a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl and particularly preferably methyl.

It is preferred if the anion X ^- according to formula (I) is selected from halide, in particular chloride, bromide and iodide, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl sulfonate, trifluoromethanesulfonate, acetate, trifluoroacetate, perchlorate, ½ sulfate, Hydrogen sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, hexafluorophosphate or tetrachlorozincate. It is especially favored according to the invention if the physiologically tolerable anion X ^{- represents} a halide ion (in particular chloride or bromide), hydrogensulfate, ½ sulfate, p-toluenesulfonate, benzenesulfonate or acetate.

It it has been found that the Acetylpyridiniumderivate according to formula (I) According to the invention particularly advantageous properties if they have the acetyl group in either the 2- or 4-position wear on the pyridine ring. Another embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the means as Acetylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) at least a 2-acetylpyridinium derivative and / or 4-acetylpyridinium derivative contains.

suitable Acetylpyridiniumderivate are the physiologically acceptable, which selected as cation a Acetylpyridiniumderivat from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium and 2-acetyl-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyridinium, contain.

In particular, those agents are suitable according to the invention, which are characterized in that the Acetylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium Benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium bromide, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium chloride, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl 1-allylpyridinium benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium bromide, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium chloride, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium bromide, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium chloride, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-ace tyl-1-allylpyridinium benzenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium bromide, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium chloride, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate and / or 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate.

there Particularly advantageous means are characterized in that the Acetylpyridiniumderivat selected according to formula (I) is from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, in particular 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.

In In one embodiment, the agents contain the acetylpyridinium derivatives of the formula (I) to 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 6.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the agent.

When another essential ingredient containing the inventive Means at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.

To the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers counts the film formation. Among film-forming polymers are such polymers to understand which while drying a continuous film on the Skin, hair or nails. such Filmbildner can in the most different cosmetic Products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, Hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes be used. Particularly preferred are those polymers which sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures to be in the inventive agent in completely dissolved form. The film-making Polymers can be synthetic or natural Be of origin.

Under Film-forming polymers are further inventively such Polymers understood that when used in 0.01 to 20 wt .-% - aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic Solution are able to transparent on the hair To deposit polymer film.

firming Polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or structure of the hair volume and the hair sheath of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment products such as hair fixatives, Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and only a few fibers with each other connect.

There Polymers are often multifunctional, that is show several application-wise desirable effects, Numerous polymers can be found in several on the mode of action divided groups, as in the CTFA manual.

The Inventive agent preferably contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which is preferred is selected from at least one polymer of the group, which is formed from nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic Polymers.

The film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the inventive Agent preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight, most preferably from 2.0% by weight to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition. These quantities also apply to all in the invention Means employable subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers. If different preferred quantities below have been specified, the latter are again considered more preferred Amounts.

• – nichtionischen Polymeren auf Basis ethylenisch ungesättigter Monomere, insbesondere aus – Homopolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons, – nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons, – Homopolymeren und nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylcaprolactams, – Copolymeren des (Meth)acrylamids, – Polyvinylalkohol, Polyvinylacetat,
• – Chitosan und Derivaten des Chitosans,
• – kationischen Cellulosederivaten,
• – kationischen Copolymeren des 3-(C₁ bis C₆)-Alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazoliniums,
• – Homopolymeren und Copolymeren enthaltend die Struktureinheit der Formel (M-1)
  
  in der R² = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkyl-, (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkenyl- oder (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppen, p = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, q eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist,
• – anionischen Polymeren, welche Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen aufweisen,
• – anionischen Polyurethanen.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are those agents which contain at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed

• Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, especially homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate,
• - chitosan and derivatives of chitosan,
• - cationic cellulose derivatives,
• Cationic copolymers of the 3- (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium,
• Homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)
  
  wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion,
• Anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups,
• - anionic polyurethanes.

worin
R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
R' steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Acylgruppe,
R'' und R'''' stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₇)-Alkylgruppe oder ein Wasserstoffatom
R''' steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe oder eine (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe.Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as an additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) acyl group,
R "and R""independently represent a (C ₁ to C ₇ ) alkyl group or a hydrogen atom
R '''represents a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl group.

Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are synthesized from at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, such as, for example, For example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers are selected from (C ₁ to C ₃ ) alkyl groups.

worin R' steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₃₀)-Acylgruppe, insbesondere für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Acetylgruppe.Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

Particularly suitable are homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinyl pyrrolidone (such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE), (copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA are marketed by the firm BASF SE 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73), (terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides such as Akypomine ^® P 191 (from the company CHEM-Y), polyvinyl alcohols, for example, under the trade designations Elvanol ^® be sold by Du Pont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (such as Luviset.RTM ^® Clear from BASF SE).

In addition to the nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso SI ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg ^® grades), hydroxyethylcellulose, such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® AQUALON) and Natrosol (Hercules).

Under Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which are used in the Main and / or side chain have a group which is "temporary" or "permanent" cationic can be. As "permanently cationic" according to the invention such Denotes polymers which are independent of the pH of the agent have a cationic group. These are usually polymers, the one quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers, in which the quaternary ammonium group on a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or whose derivatives are attached to a polymer backbone, have proven to be particularly suitable.

in der R² = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkyl-, (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkenyl- oder (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppen, p = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, q eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (M1) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugt geeignete kationische filmbildende und/oder kationische festigende Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R² steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R³, R⁴ und R⁵ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2 oder 3.

Homopolymers of the general formula (M1),

wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (M1) and non-ionic monomer units are particularly preferably suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ² is a methyl group
• - R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2 or 3.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^{- of} the formula (M1) are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A well-suited homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, other components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mi neral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

copolymers of quaternized derivatives of the dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate and / or copolymers of quaternized derivatives of the dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylamide are considered to be particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymers.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (M1) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

worin
R für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe steht,
R', R'' und R'' unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe,
X steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
A steht für eine Ethan-1,2,-diylgruppe oder eine Propan-1,3-diylgruppe,
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet.A further cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)

wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R ', R "and R" independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,
X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group,
n is 1 or 3.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge serve all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as Chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, Phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, Triflate.

• – Copolymere aus mit Diethylsulfat quaterniertem Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, mit Vinylpyrrolidon mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11 unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^® 440, Gafquat^® 734, Gafquat^® 755 (jeweils Firma ISP) sowie Luviquat PQ 11 PN (Firma BASF SE),
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N-Vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamid und 3-(Methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-69), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen AquaStyle^® 300 (28–32 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Ethanol-Wasser-Gemisch) von der Firma ISP vertrieben wird.

Such compounds are for example as

• - copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 755 (both from ISP), and Luviquat under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),
• - copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28 -32% by weight of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.

Farther become the cationic film-forming and / or cationic festivals Polymers according to the invention particularly preferred cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives selected.

Further are suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers preferred cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particular for the purposes of the invention It is advantageous for those who carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

worin
R'' für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht, und zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres kationisches und/oder nichtionisches Strukturelement aufweisen.Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M11)

wherein
R "is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally having at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge serve all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as Chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, Phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, Triflate.

worin
R'' für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht.In turn, it is preferred according to the invention if, as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (c1) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M11) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)

wherein
R '' is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (c1) serve all kinds of physiologically compatible anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, Ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

All particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units according to formula (M11) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).

beschreiben, wobei die indices m und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formel (M11) und der Formel (M6) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M11) with R '' = methyl and (M6) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly1)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M11) and the formula (M6) are statistically distributed in the molecule.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) a chloride ion used, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) using a methosulfate, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention contain a Copolymer (c1), in particular of the formula (poly1), the molar masses within of a certain area. Here are inventive Preferred agents in which the copolymer (c1) has a molecular weight of 50 to 400 kDa, preferably 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are thus characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2), the at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and contains at least one structural unit according to formula (M7)

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der besagten Formeln im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.Here, too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6) and (M7) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1% by weight of polymer units due to incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M11-a), (M6) and (M7) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge of the component (c2) serve all kinds of physiologically compatible anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, Ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is in to compensate for the positive charge of the polymer of the formula (Poly2) ver methosulfate ver apply such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature are referred to as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade name Luviquat Hold ^® from BASF.

All particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M11-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol%, and especially 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).

Especially preferred agents according to the invention contain a Copolymer (c2), the molecular weights within a certain range having. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c2) has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.

additionally to the copolymer (s) (c1) and / or (c2) or to the thereof or their place, the inventive Medium as a film-forming cationic and / or strengthening cationic Polymer also copolymers (c3) containing, as structural units Have structural units of the formulas (M11-a) and (M6), and further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of acrylamide and / or Methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3), the at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and contains at least one structural unit of formula (M10) and at least one structural unit of formula (M12)

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n, o und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formeln (M11-a), (M6), (M8) und (M12) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt. -%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c3) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) may be randomly distributed in the molecule.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge of the component (c3) serve all kinds of physiologically compatible anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, Ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers are used as Polyquaternium-68, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M11-a) and 45 to 65 mol .-%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (M12).

Especially preferred agents according to the invention contain a Copolymer (c3), the molecular weights within a certain range having. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c3) has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.

• – Vinylpyrolidon/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliumchlorid-Copolymere (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Luviquat^® Style, Luviquat^® FC 370, Luviquat^® FC 550, Luviquat^® FC 905 und Luviquat^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliummethylsulfat-Copolymere (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-44 unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Luviquat^® Care (BASF SE)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylcaprolactam/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium-Terpolymer (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-46 unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Luviquat^® Care oder Luviquat^® Hold (BASF SE)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Methacrylamid/Vinylimidazol/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliummethylsulfat-Copolymer (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-68 unter der Handelsbezeichnung Luviquat^® Supreme (BASF SE)), sowie Gemische aus diesen Polymeren.

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M11-a), the following are preferred:

• - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
• - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium-copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)),
• - vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat Hold ^® (BASF SE)),
• - Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliummethylsulfat copolymer (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium -68 under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme (BASF SE)), and mixtures of these polymers.

Further preferably usable in the agents according to the invention cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group that is quaternary at certain pHs Ammonium group and thus cationic present.

To These polymers include, for example, chitosans. chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are considered to be very particularly preferred film-forming and / or setting polymers in the sense of the present invention Invention.

chitosan represent biopolymers and become a group of hydrocolloids counted. Chemically, it is partial deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.

to Chitosans are produced by chitin, preferably the Shell remnants of crustaceans made as cheap raw materials in large quantities are available. The chitin is usually first by adding deproteinated by bases, by addition of mineral acids demineralized and finally by adding strong ones Bases are deacetylated, with molecular weights over one broad spectrum can be distributed. Preferably used types that have an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt .-% in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a Deacetylation degree in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3% by weight.

Next the chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers come in the According to the invention, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as z. As quaternization) or alkoxylated chitosans in question.

According to the invention preferred Agents are characterized as having as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, Hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.

Suitable chitosan (derivatives) are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / commercially 101 freely available.

The Chitosan or its derivatives are in the inventive Preferably in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of agent according to the invention.

Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8)

worin
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet.In this case, preference is again given to those copolymers which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10),

wherein
n is 1 or 3.

• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Di-methylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Gaffix^® VC 713 (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylcaprolactam/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Aquaflex^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise als 35–39% Festkörper in Ethanol in form des Handelsprodukts Advantage LCE mit der INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Alcohol, Lauryl Pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

als bevorzugte Liste zur Auswahl mindestens eines oder mehrerer Polymere daraus.Again, the group of polymers applies

• - vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ^® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)),
• - vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solid in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LCE with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

as a preferred list for selecting at least one or more polymers thereof.

The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer. The term "amphoteric polymers" includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium in the molecule niumgruppen and -COO ^- - or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.

• A) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Z-I), R1-CH=CR2-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N(+)R3R4R5A(–) (Z-I)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• B) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Z-II), R6-CH=CR7-COOOH (Z-II)in denen R6 und R7 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

The latter have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together

• A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (ZI), R1-CH = CR2-CO-Z- (CnH2n) -N (+) R3R4R5A (-) (ZI) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ^3, R ⁴ and R 5 independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A (-) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II), R6-CH = CR7-COOOH (Z-II) in which R6 and R7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (ZI) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (Z-II). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (Z-II) for the stated polymers.

suitable Starting monomers are z. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and Diethylaminoethylacrylamid, if Z is an NH group or Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate, when Z is an oxygen atom.

The a tertiary amino group-containing monomers then quaternized in a known manner, using as alkylating reagents Methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous Solution or in the solvent.

advantageously, such monomers of the formula (Z-I) are used, the derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Further preferred are those monomers which, as counterions, are halide, methoxy sulfate or ethoxysulfate ions. Likewise preferred are those Monomers of the formula (Z-I) in which R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups are.

The Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very special one preferred monomer of the formula (Z-I).

When monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. Preference is given to acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular Acrylic acid, used.

When Such polymers have proven particularly effective in which the monomers of formula (Z-I) over the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in excess. It is therefore preferred according to the invention, such polymers to be used, consisting of monomers of the formula (Z-I) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 exist.

The amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Preferably, in amounts of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, especially preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Farther may be at least as film-forming and / or setting polymers an anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer be used.

at the anionic polymers are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available.

Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol .-% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol .-% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product urchins ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

• – Copolymeren aus Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure (wie sie beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt Aristoflex^® A 60 mit der INCI-Bezeichnung VA/Crotonates Copolymer von der Firma CIBA in einer 60 Gew.-%-igen Dispersion in Isopropanol-Wasser vermarktet werden),
• – Copolymeren aus Ethylacrylat und Methacrylsäure (wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Luviflex^® Soft mit einer Säurezahl von 84 bis 105 unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Acrylates Copolymer in einer ca. 20 bis 30 Gew.-%igen Dispersion in Wasser von der Firma BASF SE vertrieben werden),
• – Polyurethanen mit mindestens einer Carboxylgruppe (wie beispielsweise ein Copolymer aus Isophthalsäure, Adipinsäure, 1,6-Hexandiol, Neopentylglykol und Isophorondiisocyanat wie es unter dem Handelsnamen Luviset PUR mit der INCI-Bezeichung Polyurethane-1 von der Firma BASF SE vertrieben wird).

Other preferred anionic polymers are selected from the group that is formed

• - copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (as 60 wt .-%, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ^® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a - marketed dispersion in isopropanol-water)
• - copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (such as, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ^® Soft having an acid number from 84 to 105 under the INCI name of Acrylates Copolymer in an about 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water by BASF SE to be expelled),
• - Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).

If especially strongly thickening anionic polymers are used should come, again, in the context of a preferred embodiment be taken to ensure that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion the agent according to the invention is maintained.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free from hydrogen peroxide and / or its addition compounds to organic and inorganic compounds. It is therefore in particular not to be understood as brightening or bleaching agent. Under means that are free of hydrogen peroxide and / or its addition compounds to organic and inorganic compounds are those means which hydrogen peroxide and / or its addition compounds to organic and inorganic compounds in a total amount of less than 0.5 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.1 Wt .-% and especially less than 0.01 wt .-% contained. Hydrogen peroxide and / or its addition compounds to organic and inorganic compounds for the purposes of the present invention are hydrogen peroxide itself or solid addition compounds of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, Natriumpercarbamid, Polyvinylpyrrolidinonn H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide, but also peroxy salts such as ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.

to Intensification of the effect according to the invention preferably contain the agents according to the invention additionally at least one surfactant, wherein in principle nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants are suitable. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants can According to the invention already have emulsifying effect.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive agent preferably in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, especially preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel RO(CH₂CH₂O)_xCH₂COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare α-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – α-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylethersulfate der Formel RO(CH₂CH₂O)_xSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – Ethercarbonsäuren von Alkylpolyglycosiden der Formel R-(Gly)_xCH₂COOOH, in der R für eine Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, Gly für ein Glycosid, ausgewählt aus Pyranosiden, und x für eine Zahl von 1 bis 5 stehen,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel
  
  in der R bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen, gegebenenfalls ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R' für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_yR und x und y unabhängig voneinander für eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel RC(O)O(alkO)_nSO₃H, in der R für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃ und n für eine Zahl von 0,5 bis 5 steht,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (MGS)
  
  in der R für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, und x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10 stehen.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x CH ₂ COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Linear α-olefinsulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Α-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• Ether carboxylic acids of alkyl polyglycosides of the formula R- (Gly) _x CH ₂ COOOH, in which R is an alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, Gly is a glycoside selected from pyranosides, and x is a number from 1 to 5,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether of the formula
  
  in which R is an aliphatic, optionally unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 'is hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y R and x and y independently of one another have a number from 1 to 10,
• - sulfated Fettsäurealkylenglykolester of the formula RC (O) O (AlkO) _n SO ₃ H, in which R is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH ₂ CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ and n is a number from 0.5 to 5,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (MGS)
  
  in which R is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10.

Preferred anionic surfactants for all hair treatment compositions according to the invention are linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, straight-chain and branched alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x CH ₂ COOH, where R is a linear alkyl group 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12 and also ether carboxylic acids of alkylpolyglycosides of the formula R- (Gly) _x CH ₂ COOOH, in which R is an alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms, Gly is a glycoside, selected from pyranosides, and x represents a number from 1 to 5.

Also particularly preferred are agents which contain as anionic surfactant at least one linear and branched, optionally unsaturated fatty acid having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or an ether carboxylic acid of alkylpolyglycosides of the formula R- (Gly) _x CH ₂ COOOH, in the R for an alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms, Gly for a glycoside selected from pyranosides, and x is a number from 1 to 5 contained.

When Fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, Isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Isopalmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, Elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, the z. B. in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, during oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or dimerization incurred by unsaturated fatty acids. Especially usually preferred are the fatty acid cuts, which is available from coconut oil or palm oil are; especially preferred is the use of stearic acid.

When zwitterionic surfactants become such surface active Compounds referred to in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, Sulfonate or sulfate group wear. Particularly suitable zwitterionic Surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example, the Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is that under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative.

Amphoteric surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

there These are usually shampoos that are in one preferred embodiment at least one anionic Surfactant and at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant in a ratio of anionic surfactant (s) to amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s) of 3: 1 to 1: 2 preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 1.

Cationic surfactants are usually selected from at least one surfactant from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines.

preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® 180 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

In a further embodiment of the invention included the hair remover according to the invention the Increase skin mildness and reduce skin irritation furthermore at least one nonionic surfactant in an amount of From 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent.

• - Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• – Polyglycerinester und alkoxylierte Polyglycerinester;
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an ggf. gehärtetes Rizinusöl;
• – alkoxylierte, bevorzugt propoxylierte und insbesondere ethoxylierte, Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride, wie beispielsweise Glycerinmonolaurat + 20 Ethylenoxid und Glycerinmonostearat + 20 Ethylenoxid;
• – alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel RC(O)-(OCH₂CH₂)_wOR', in der RC(O)- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R' für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht;
• – Aminoxide;
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate, Sorbitanmonolaurat und Sorbitanmonolaurat + 20 Mol Ethylenoxid (EO);
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester;
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine;
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide;
• – Alkylphenole und Alkylphenolalkoxylate mit 6 bis 21, insbesondere 6 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 0 bis 30 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxid-Einheiten; Bevorzugte Vertreter dieser Klasse sind beispielsweise Nonylphenol + 4 EO, Nonylphenol + 9 EO, Octylphenol + 3 EO und Octylphenol + 8 EO;
• – Alkylpolyglykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x, wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht.

Such nonionic surfactants are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• - C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters;
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to optionally hydrogenated castor oil;
• - alkoxylated, preferably propoxylated and in particular ethoxylated, mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide;
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula RC (O) - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _w OR ', in which RC (O) - represents a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R' is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20;
• - amine oxides;
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan monolaurate + 20 moles of ethylene oxide (EO);
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters;
• - addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines;
• Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides;
• - Alkylphenole and Alkylphenolalkoxylate with 6 to 21, in particular 6 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units; Preferred representatives of this class are, for example, nonylphenol + 4 EO, nonylphenol + 9 EO, octylphenol + 3 EO and octylphenol + 8 EO;
• - Alkylpolyglykoside according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x , wherein R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

As nonionic surfactants are particularly suitable as further preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs. In particular, the nonethoxylated compounds have been found to be particularly suitable.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides of the formula RO - (Z) _x in which R is selected from C ₈ -C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl groups, essentially from C ₈ -C ₁₆ -alkyl groups, from C ₁₂ - C ₁₆ alkyl groups or from C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl groups. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

The Hair remover according to the invention can additionally contain at least one care substance. The Nursing agents are again preferred in the inventive Means, based on their total weight, in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-% and used in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%.

at the aforementioned care substances are preferably at least a substance from the group of protein hydrolysates, vitamins, the amino acids and / or the plant extracts.

A Another embodiment of the present invention therefore characterized in that the agent is still at least a care substance from the group of protein hydrolysates and / or the vitamins and / or the amino acids and / or the plant extracts contains.

It may be preferred according to the invention that several Substances from the aforementioned group of skin and hair care agents are included. According to the invention is a combination from at least one vitamin and at least one plant extract, an amino acid or ectoine or a combination of at least one protein hydrolyzate and at least one plant extract, an amino acid or ectoine. Particularly preferred is the Combination of vitamins and amino acids, vitamins and Ectoin as well as protein hydrolysates and amino acids.

Under According to the invention preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives are such representatives usually understood to belong to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin);
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin);
• – Vitamin B₃, wobei unter dieser Bezeichnung häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt werden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol, insbesondere D-Panthenol, eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine);
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin);
• - Vitamin B ₃ , which under this name often the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol, in particular D-panthenol, is preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The mentioned compounds of the vitamin B group are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.03 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the invention Preferably, in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, among which esp In particular, the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate are contained in the agents used in the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in Amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% included.

Prefers the agents according to the invention contain vitamins, Provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Of course, also several vitamins and vitamin precursors at the same time. In a special preferred embodiment of the invention include the Hair treatment agent to support the moisture retention capacity the scalp and / or hair D-panthenol, optional in the mixture with one of the other aforementioned vitamin components.

According to the invention suitable Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) to be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. For example, the latter are Polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further Examples of usable according to the invention Compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of Protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and quite more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates of both plant and animal, marine or of synthetic origin in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the invention By means of, are used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) kerasol tm ^® (Croda) or ProSina ^® (Croda) sold.

According to the invention suitable protein hydrolysates of plant origin are z. Soybean, almond, pea, potato, rice and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosog ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures obtained otherwise may optionally be used instead. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

When particularly suitable is the addition of a Kerstin, collagen or silk protein hydrolyzate to the invention Drug combination highlighted. especially preferred in relation is an increase in moisture retention capacity the keratin hydrolyzate.

As a further preferred skin and / or hair care active agent, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Amino acids also have a moisturizing effect and stabilize the acid mantle of the skin due to their buffer effect, ie they serve the (head) skin protection. Amino acids suitable according to the invention originate from the group glycine, alanine, valine, Leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S- Methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl- L-histidine, L-omithine, where both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain one or more Amino acids in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Hair treatment agent characterized in that it is used as a care substance, based on their weight, 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1.5 wt .-%, more preferably From 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or ariginine and / or serine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or Threonine included. Especially preferred for use in the agents according to the invention are the amino acids Glycine, alanine and / or arginine.

When Another preferred skin and / or hair care agent can the agents according to the invention with particular preference for the mechanical and sensory strengthening of hair plant extracts contain.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

According to the invention especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Echinacea, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Toadstool, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Meristem, Moringa, Ginseng and Ginger Root prefers.

The extracts of green tea, chamomile, almond, aloe vera and moringa are very particularly preferred according to the invention because of their hair-strengthening action and their supportive effect with regard to hair fullness. Particularly preferred according to the invention a Moringa extract, for example, a product sold under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 or Moringa Oleifera ^® product.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. Unless used in a dilute farm they usually about 0.2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as solvent, the extractant used in their extraction or extractant mixture.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive Mixtures of several, especially two, different Use plant extracts. Particularly according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that it, based on their weight, 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 5 and in particular 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, plant extracts (corresponding the active substance content of the extract).

A another preferred embodiment of the present invention is that the ready-to-use means a pH between 2.0 and 9.0, preferably between 2.5 and 7.0 has. Especially The agents are preferred and particularly tolerated by the skin in a pH range of 3.0 to 6.0. At the pH values in the sense the present invention are pH values at a temperature of 22 ° C were measured.

Usually the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters. To adjustment of the pH are common to those skilled in the cosmetics Acidifying and alkalizing agents common. The for adjusting the pH usable alkalizing agent are typically selected from inorganic salts, especially the alkali and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, especially amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Acidifying agents preferred according to the invention are Pleasure acids, such as citric acid, Acetic, malic or tartaric acid, and diluted mineral acids.

In addition to the mandatory constituents of the active ingredient combination according to the invention, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may, in a preferred embodiment, also contain further hair-care substances contained, which can increase or support the effect of the invention even further.

These preferred further active ingredients are selected from the Group of natural and synthetic oil components, anti-dandruff agents, cationic polymers, UV filter and / or the silicones.

A further component preferred according to the invention is an oil that is natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances. Especially contain the conditioning agents according to the invention at least one oil and / or fat component.

When Natural (vegetable) oils are commonly used Triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides used. preferred natural oils in the context of the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, Apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, Soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, Evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, Mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranth seed oil, Argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, Pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, Canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether. Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether. n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and Di-tert-butyl ether, diiso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether. According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

The agents according to the invention contain the oil components) preferably in an amount range of 0.1 to 7 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention can the effect of the drug combination of the invention be further optimized by further fatty substances. Among others Fats are fatty alcohols as well as natural and synthetic To understand waxes, which are both solid and liquid may be in aqueous dispersion.

The Use amount is 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy. In a preferred embodiment the amount is 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, with very particular advantageous amounts of 1 to 5 wt .-% are.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -alkyl chains. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan® be used.

When Natural or synthetic waxes can be used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, Candelilla Wax, Ozokerite, Ceresin, Sunflower Wax, Fruit Waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the company Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – Esteröle, worunter die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀–Fettalkoholen zu verstehen sind. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₂₄-Alkoholen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V);
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,

Other fatty substances are, for example

• - Ester oils, which are to be understood as the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₂₄ -alcohols are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V);
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

Anti-dandruff agents also contribute to the improvement of the invention Means at, because with the reduction or inhibition of dandruff also go better skin tolerance and a lower Irritation potential of the scalp associated. According to the invention preferred Agents thus continue to contain at least one cosmetically acceptable Anti-dandruff agent. This is the invention Compositions in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight (relative to the total mean) and is selected from Piroctone Oelamine, Climbazole, Zinc Pyrithione, Ketoconazole, Salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfides, tar preparations, Undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, Stinging nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, Rosemary extracts and / or amica extracts. According to the invention preferred Salicylic acid, climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone oilamines.

Farther may in a preferred embodiment of the invention an agent according to the invention also contains UV filters, because UV filters protect the scalp from increased sun exposure protect. Furthermore, it is known that certain active ingredients in combination with increased sunlight or UV light radiation Cause skin irritation, therefore it is preferred according to the invention if the funds continue to contain a UV filter. The inventively used For example, UV filters can be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobrom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557 , Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L- camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl 1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} - acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Hel iopan ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobrom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-metho xy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2 .1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and their salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxobromo 3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn -3-ylidene] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Two preferred UV filter with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

The UV filters are common in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total mean, included.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; (per)fluorierten Gruppen; Thiolgruppen; Carboxylatgruppen; hydroxylierten Gruppen; alkoxylierten Gruppen; Acyloxyalkylgruppen; amphoteren Gruppen; Sulfinsäuregruppen; Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; Carboxygruppen; Sulfonsäuregruppen; und Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren;
• (iv) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst;
• (v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention which contain at least one silicone. Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair. It is therefore desirable according to the invention to add at least one silicone component, in particular in the case of hair conditioning agents. This item (s) is selected under:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; (per) fluorinated groups; thiol; carboxylate groups; hydroxylated groups; alkoxylated groups; acyloxyalkyl; amphoteric groups; sulfinic; hydroxyacylamino groups; carboxy; sulfonic acid groups; and sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers with non-silicone organic backbone;
• (v) grafted silicone polymers with polysiloxane backbone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

The The aforementioned silicone components are the inventive Means - based on their total weight - in in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.3 to 5 wt .-% (based on the active substance content of the silicone).

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin;
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide;
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind;
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen (z. B. Handelsprodukt Montanov^® 68);
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an ggf. gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, insbesondere tierischem (Zoosterine, z. B. Cholesterin und Lanosterin) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Ursprungs (Phytosterine, z. B. Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin) sowie aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine);
• – Phospholipide, vor allem Glucose-Phospolipide (z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen);
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit;
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers. Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol;
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides;
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, wherein degrees of oligomerization from 1.1 to 5, especially 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component are preferred;
• - glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols (eg commercial product Montanov ^®. 68)
• Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to optionally hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols, in particular animal (zoosterols, eg cholesterol and lanosterol) as well as of vegetable origin (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol) as well as of fungi and yeasts (mycosterols);
• Phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids (for example as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans);
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol;
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Glucose, Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Farbstoffe und Pigmente zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft, sowie
• – Antioxidantien.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Dyes and pigments for staining the agent,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, and
• - antioxidants.

The Formulation of the compositions of the invention can in all forms usual for styling agents, for example, in the form of solutions that act as hair tonic, Pump or aerosol foam or pump or aerosol spray on the hair can be applied, in the form of creams, emulsions, Waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations intended for use on the Hair are suitable.

hair creams and hair gels usually contain structurants and / or thickening Polymers that serve the desired products To give consistency. Structural and / or thickening polymers are typically in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire product. Amounts of from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

to Packaging of the agent according to the invention as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam the agents according to the invention in a dispenser given either an addition with a propellant filled compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.

The Gas cylinder, with the help of a product through the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve is defined by definition as "aerosol container". As a "non-aerosol container" is in reverse to Aerosol definition defines a container under normal pressure, with the help of a product by mechanical action through a pumping system is distributed.

Especially the agents according to the invention are preferred as Pump foam, aerosol foam, pump spray, aerosol spray, hair lotion, Hair gel or hair cream made up. The invention Means therefore preferably additionally contains at least a propellant.

Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, said alkanes, Mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes used with dimethyl ether as the only blowing agent. The invention but also explicitly includes the use of propellants the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the Fluorocarbons.

about the ratio of blowing agent to the rest Components of the preparations can be used with a given spray device the sizes of the aerosol droplets or the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution to adjust.

The The amount of propellant used varies depending on from the concrete composition of the product, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional sprayers aerosol foam products contain the blowing agent preferably in amounts from 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Quantities of From 2 to 30% by weight, especially from 3 to 15% by weight, are especially prefers. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger ones Amounts of propellant. The propellant is preferred in this Case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total Product, used. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular of 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The Aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. In general, all components of the respective agent with Exception of the propellant in a suitable pressure-resistant container filled. This is then closed with a valve. about Conventional techniques will eventually become the desired ones Amount of propellant filled.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

One second object of the invention is the use of the invention Means of the first subject of the invention for temporary Deformation of hair.

One third object of the invention is the use of the invention Means of the first subject of the invention for hair care.

One fourth subject of the invention is the use of the invention Means of the first subject of the invention for strengthening the hair fiber structure and / or to restructure the hair fiber.

The agents and products of this invention In particular, remedies contain the fact that they are give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle Although the hair stays flexible.

One Fifth object of the invention is a method for Treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, wherein an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratin fibers.

there it is inventively preferred that the keratin-containing Fibers are brought into shape and this form by application the means of the first subject of the invention is fixed.

It is again particularly preferred when the inventive Means of the first subject of the invention after the application the keratin-containing fibers is left. The application of the invention Using as a leave-on product is therefore preferred.

With regard to preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention or of the method rens mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Examples:

The The following quantities are understood as follows nothing else is noted - as a percentage by weight.

1.0 Aerosol hair foams:

Aquastyle^®300

Copolymer aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon/N-Vinylcaprolactam/N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamid und 3-(Methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammoniumchlorid (Aktivsubstanz 30 Gew.-% in Wasser/Ethanol, INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-69) (ISP)

Celquat^®L 200

quaterniertes Cellulose-Derivat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)

Gafquat^®755 N PW

Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Vinylpyrrolidon-Copolymer, quaterniert mit Diethylsulfat (ca. 19% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)

Luviquat^®FC 370

3-Methyl-1-vinylimidazoliumchlorid-Vinylpyrrolidon-Copolymerisat (30:70) (38–42% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)

Luviquat^®Supreme

Vinylpyrrolidon-Methacrylamid-Vinylimidazol-Vinylimidazolium-methosulfat-Copolymerisat (55:29:10:6) (19–21% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-68) (BASF)

Styleze^® W-10

Copolymer aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N,N-Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid und N,N-Dimethyl-N- dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamid chlorid (ca. 9 bis 11% Aktivsubstanz, INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)

Styleze^® W-20

Copolymer aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N,N-Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid und N,N-Dimethyl-N-dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamid chlorid (ca. 19 bis 21% Aktivsubstanz, INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)

Styleze^® CC 10

Copolymer aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N,N-Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid (ca. 9 bis 11% Aktivsubstanz, INCI-Bezeichnung:VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer) (ISP)

Natrosol^® 250 HR

Hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydroxyethylcellulose) (Hercules)

Dow Corning^® 939

ca. 32–36% Festkörper; INCI-Bezeichnung: Amodimethicone, Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning)

Genamin^® CTAC

Trimethylhexadecylammoniumchlorid (ca. 28–30% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Cetrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

The compositions of the following table were each filled into a suitable pressure-resistant container for the production of aerosol hair foams, which was then closed with a valve. The agents were then each treated with a propellant mixture of propane and n-butane in a molar ratio of 1: 1. The weight ratio of agent to propellant mixture was 92: 8. raw materials A B C D e F G Aquastyle ^® 300 4.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 4.0 4.0 - Celquat ^® L-200 1.0 1.0 0.5 - - 1.0 0.5 Luviquat ^® Supreme - - - - 4.0 - 10.0 Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370 - - 4.0 - - - - Styleze W-10 ^® 6.0 2.0 - 4.0 - - - Styleze® ^® W-20 - - - - - 4.0 - Gafquat ^® 755 N PW - - - 6.0 3.0 - - Styleze® ^® CC 10 - 2.0 - - - - - Luviskol ^® K 90 - - - - - - 2.5 Natrosol ^® 250 HR - - - - - 0.1 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluenesulfonate 0.4 0.7 0.9 0.5 0.6 0.5 1.0 ethanol 15.0 - - - - 15.0 - glycerin - - - - - - 0.2 D-panthenol - - - - - - 0.2 Genamin ^® CTAC - - - - - - 1.0 Dow ^Corning® 939 - - - - - - 0.2 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 water <--- ad 100 --->

Aquastyle ^® 300

Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (active substance 30% by weight in water / ethanol, INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) ( ISP)

Celquat ^® L 200

quaternized cellulose derivative (INCI name: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)

Gafquat ^® 755 N PW

Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (about 19% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)

Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370

3-Methyl-1-vinylimidazolium chloride-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (30:70) (38-42% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)

Luviquat ^® Supreme

Vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamide-vinylimidazole-vinylimidazolium methosulfate copolymer (55: 29: 10: 6) (19-21% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-68) (BASF)

Styleze W-10 ^®

Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and N, N-dimethyl-N-dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride (about 9 to 11% of active substance, INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)

Styleze® ^® W-20

Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and N, N-dimethyl-N-dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride (about 19 to 21% active ingredient, INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)

Styleze® ^® CC 10

Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide (about 9 to 11% active ingredient, INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer) (ISP)

Natrosol ^® 250 HR

Hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: Hydroxyethylcellulose) (Hercules)

Dow ^Corning® 939

about 32-36% solids; INCI name: Amodimethicone, Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning)

Genamin ^® CTAC

Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 28-30% active ingredient in water, INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

2.0 aerosol hair sprays

• ¹ INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinylcaprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, Laurylpyrrolidone; 37 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Ethanol mit Zusatz von N-Laurylpyrrolidon (ISP)
• ² INCI-Bezeichnung: Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butyl-aminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National Starch)
• ³ Copolymer aus Isophthalsäure, 2,2-Dimethyl-1,3-propandiol, 1,6-hexanediol, 3-Hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-2-methylpropansäure and 5-Isocyanato-1-(isocyanatomethyl)-1,3,3-trimethylcyclohexan, neutralisiert mit 2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyurethane-1) (BASF SE)
• ⁴ Mit durchschnittlich 18 Mol Propylenoxid und 18 Mol Ethylenoxid alkoxyliertes Polydimethylsiloxan-Derivat (INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone) (Dow Corning)
• ⁵ 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester (INCI-Bezeichnung: Isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate) (Symrise)
• ⁶ 1,1-Difluorethan (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydrofluorocarbon 152a) (Du Pont)

3.0 Volumenlotion: Hydagen^® HCMS-LA 35,00 Jaguar^® HP 105 1,00 Abil Quat^® 3272 0,50 Ethanol vergällt mit tert.-Butanol und Bitrex^® 15,00 Dow Corning^® 193 surfactant 1,00 D-Panthenol 75% 0,25 Luviset^® Clear 5,00 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluolsulfonat 0,20 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,50 Benzophenone-4 0,10 Citronensäure Monohydrat 0,01 Parfum 0,15 Wasser ad 100

Jaguar^® HP 105

Propylenglykolether des Guargummis (Pulver mit ca. 3,5–10% Feuchtigkeitsgehalt; INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydroxypropyl Guar) (Rhodia)

Abil Quat^® 3272

Mit 3-{3-[(3-Cocoamidopropyl)-dimethylammonio]-2-hydroxypropoxy}propyl-Gruppen terminiertes Silikon, Molekulargewicht 1500 g/mol, 50 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in 1,2-Propylenglykol (INCI-Bezeichnung: Quaternium-80; CAS-Nummer: 134737-05-6) (Evonik Goldschmidt)

Dow Corning^® 193 surfactant

Silikon-Glykol-Copolymer (INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG-12 Dimethicone) (Dow Corning)

Hydagen^® HCMS-LA

zu mindestens 80% deacetyliertes Chitin mit Milchsäure versetzt (INCI-Bezeichnung: Chitosan Lactate) (Cognis)

Luviset^® Clear

Vinylpyrrolidon-Methacrylamid-Vinylimidazol-Copolymerisat (19–21% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) (BASF)

4.0 Haargele: Gel 1: Synthalen^® K 0,60 Luviskol^® VA 64 W 4,90 D-Panthenol 0,20 PEG-32 (Polyethylenglykol mit MW 1500 g/mol) 2,50 Luviset Clear^® 1,80 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,20 Glycerin 4,00 Ethanol, vergällt mit Diethylphthalat 20,00 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluolsulfonat 0,10 Benzophenone-4 0,05 2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 0,40 Parfum 0,10 Wasser ad 100

Luviset^® Clear

Vinylpyrrolidon-Methacrylamid-Vinylimidazol-Copolymerisat (19–21% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) (BASF)

Luviskol^® VA 64 W

Copolymer aus Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat (60:40) (48–52% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser, INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/VA Copolymer) (BASF)

Synthalen^® K

Polyacrylsäure (ca. 89% Aktivsubstanzgehalt; INCI-Bezeichnung: Carbomer) (3V Sigma)

Gel 2: Amphomer^® 2,50 Diaformer^® Z 632 N 4,50 Aculyn^® 22 2,00 2-Phenoxyethanol 0,50 Uvinul^® P 25 0,10 D-Panthenol 0,15 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,40 Ethanol, mit Diethylphthalat vergällt 5,00 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluolsulfonat 0,30 2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 0,40 Dekafald^® 0,10 Parfum 0,20 Wasser, vollentsalzt ad 100

Aculyn^® 22

Copolymer aus (Meth)acrylsäure, (Meth)acrylsäureester und Steareth-20-Methacrylsäureester (29,5–30,5 Gew.-% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer) (Rohm und Haas)

Amphomer^®

INCI-Bezeichnung: Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butyl-aminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National Starch)

Diaformer^® Z 632 N

Copolymerisat aus Stearylacrylat, Methacryloylethylaminoxid und einem oder mehreren Monomeren aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure und deren einfache Ester (28–32 Gew.-% Festkörper in Ethanol; INCI-Bezeichnung: Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer) (Clariant)

Uvinul^® P 25

4-Aminobenzoesäureethylester + 25 Mol Ethylenoxid (INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG-25 PABA) (BASF SE)

Dekafald

1,3-Dihydroxymethyl-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (ca. 54–56 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: DMDM Hydantoin) (Jan Dekker)

The following formulations were prepared by mixing the specified raw materials and filled into an aerosol can with a valve from Coster, type KE and a vortex nozzle from Coster "Standard micromist insert", type V06. The aerosol cans were closed with the valve and finally added the appropriate propellant: raw materials A B C D Ethanol (denatured tert-butanol & Bitrex ^®) 35.26 34.32 64,00 52.70 water 4.90 4.80 3.96 - Advantage ^® LCE ¹ 0.60 - - - Amphomer.RTM ^{® 2} 4.40 4.40 4.60 1.40 Luviset ^® PUR ³ - - - 5.00 Dow Corning 190 surfactant ⁴ - 0.10 - - Benzophenone-4 0.20 0.20 - 0.20 Neoheliopan E 1000 ⁵ - - 0.10 - triethylcitrate 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.10 isopropyl - 0.20 0.10 - D-panthenol - 0.15 - - 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 0.80 0.80 0.82 0.30 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluenesulfonate 1.00 0.80 0.80 0.50 Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.15 dimethyl ether ad 100 ad 100 - - Mixture of 15% propane, 85% butane / isobutane - - ad 100 - Dymel ^® 152a ⁶ - - - ad 100

• ¹ INCI name: vinylcaprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, laurylpyrrolidone; 37% by weight of active substance in ethanol with addition of N-laurylpyrrolidone (ISP)
• ² INCI name: Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National Starch)
• ³ Copolymer of isophthalic acid, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 3-hydroxy-2- (hydroxymethyl) -2-methylpropanoic acid and 5-isocyanato-1- (isocyanatomethyl) -1,3 , 3-trimethylcyclohexane, neutralized with 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (INCI name: Polyurethane-1) (BASF SE)
• ⁴ Polydimethylsiloxane derivative alkoxylated with an average of 18 mol of propylene oxide and 18 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone) (Dow Corning)
• ⁵ isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI name: isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate) (Symrise)
• ⁶ 1,1-Difluoroethane (INCI name: Hydrofluorocarbon 152a) (Du Pont)

3.0 volume lotion: Hydagen® ^® HCMS-LA 35,00 ^Jaguar® HP 105 1.00 Abil Quat ^® 3272 0.50 Ethanol denatured with tert-butanol and Bitrex ^® 15.00 Dow ^Corning® 193 surfactant 1.00 D-panthenol 75% 0.25 Luviset ^® Clear 5.00 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluenesulfonate 0.20 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.50 Benzophenone-4 0.10 Citric acid monohydrate 0.01 Perfume 0.15 water ad 100

^Jaguar® HP 105

Guar gum propylene glycol ether (powder with approx. 3.5-10% moisture content, INCI name: hydroxypropyl guar) (Rhodia)

Abil Quat ^® 3272

Silicone terminated with 3- {3 - [(3-cocoamidopropyl) -dimethylammonio] -2-hydroxypropoxy} propyl groups, molecular weight 1500 g / mol, 50% by weight of active substance in 1,2-propylene glycol (INCI name: quaternium -80; CAS number: 134737-05-6) (Evonik Goldschmidt)

Dow ^Corning® 193 surfactant

Silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone) (Dow Corning)

Hydagen® ^® HCMS-LA

At least 80% deacetylated chitin has been added to lactic acid (INCI name: Chitosan Lactate) (Cognis)

Luviset ^® Clear

Vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamide-vinylimidazole copolymer (19-21% solids in water, INCI name: VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer) (BASF)

4.0 hair gels: Gel 1: Synthalen ^® K 0.60 Luviskol ^® VA 64 W 4.90 D-panthenol 0.20 PEG-32 (polyethylene glycol with MW 1500 g / mol) 2.50 Luviset Clear ^® 1.80 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.20 glycerin 4.00 Ethanol, denatured with diethyl phthalate 20.00 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluenesulfonate 0.10 Benzophenone-4 0.05 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 0.40 Perfume 0.10 water ad 100

Luviset ^® Clear

Vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamide-vinylimidazole copolymer (19-21% solids in water, INCI name: VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer) (BASF)

Luviskol ^® VA 64 W

Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (60:40) (48-52% active in water, INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (BASF)

Synthalen ^® K

Polyacrylic acid (about 89% active ingredient content, INCI name: Carbomer) (3V Sigma)

Gel 2: Amphomer.RTM ^® 2.50 Diaformer ^® Z 632 N 4.50 Aculyn ^® 22 2.00 2-phenoxyethanol 0.50 Uvinul ^® P 25 0.10 D-panthenol 0.15 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.40 Ethanol, denatured with diethyl phthalate 5.00 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluenesulfonate 0.30 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 0.40 Dekafald ^® 0.10 Perfume 0.20 Water, demineralized ad 100

Aculyn ^® 22

Copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic ester and steareth-20-methacrylic acid ester (29.5-30.5% by weight solids in water, INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer) (Rohm and Haas)

Amphomer.RTM ^®

INCI name: Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National Starch)

Diaformer ^® Z 632 N

Copolymer of stearyl acrylate, methacryloylethylamine oxide and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters (28-32% by weight of solids in ethanol, INCI name: Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer) (Clariant)

Uvinul ^® P 25

4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester + 25 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA) (BASF SE)

Dekafald

1,3-Dihydroxymethyl-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (about 54-56% by weight of active substance in water, INCI name: DMDM Hydantoin) (Jan Dekker)

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 19745356 [0013]
• - DE 102007047685 [0013]
• WO 92/13829 [0140]

Claims (15)

Cosmetic hair treatment composition, characterized in that it is free from hydrogen peroxide and / or its addition compounds to organic and inorganic compounds, comprising in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, and b) at least one acetylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) .

in which R _{1 is} a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a carboxy- C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a heteroaryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group and X ^{- are} a physiologically acceptable anion. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the radical R _{1 is} a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group. Agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is used as Acetylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) at least one 2-acetylpyridinium derivative and / or 4-acetylpyridinium derivative contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Acetylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) is selected from the group that is formed from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium bromide, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium chloride, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium bromide, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium chloride, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium bromide, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium chloride, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium bromide, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium chloride, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogen sulfate and / or 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Acetylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) is selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is the Acetylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) at 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 6.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains the at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, which is selected from at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of - nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, in particular from Homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate, chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic copolymers of 3- (C ₁ to C ₅ ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium, - homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)

wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, - anionic polymers which contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, - anionic polyurethanes , Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is the film-forming and / or festifying Polymers in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight, most preferably from 2.0% by weight to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition are. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises at least one care substance from the group of protein hydrolysates and / or vitamins and / or contains the amino acids and / or the plant extracts. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is free of hydrogen peroxide and / or its addition compounds to organic and inorganic compounds is. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is used as a hair gel, hair cream, hair lotion, Aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam made-up is. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one propellant contains. Use of an agent according to one of the claims 1 to 12 for temporary deformation of hair. Use of an agent according to one of the claims 1 to 12 for strengthening the hair fiber structure. Method of treating keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to a of claims 1 to 12 applied to the keratin fibers becomes.