MX2009002542A - Leave-in hair dyeing process using a composition comprising a coloured polymer and an active cosmetic agent. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a leave-in hair dyeing process using a composition comprising a coloured polymer and an oil. Such a process makes it possible to obtain a coloration which is easy to carry out and which preserves the cosmetic appearance of the keratin fibres.

Description

PROCEDURE FOR COLORING HAIR WITHOUT RINSING FROM A COMPOSITION CONTAINING A COLORED POLYMER AND A COSMETIC ACTIVE PRINCIPLE Description of the Invention The subject of the invention is a hair-coloring process without rinsing from a composition containing a colored polymer and a particular cosmetic active ingredient. It is known to stain keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dyeing compositions that allow temporary colorations to be obtained. Temporary colorations are colorations that have a low resistance to water or rubs and that are largely eliminated with the first application of shampoo. For example, patent applications EP 747,036 and EP 852,843 propose temporary colorations from colored polymers dispersible in water and containing sulfo groups and bearing carbonyl-oxy bonds and a chromophore. The US patent No. 4,911,731 discloses a temporary dyeing process which consists of applying a complex formed by a particular cationic polymer and an anionic colored polymer to the hair and then lightening the hair thus colored. These temporary colorations, also called fleeting colorations, are not generally used for Ref.: 200674 effect a true coloration: they serve essentially to enhance the insipidity of a color obtained by permanent or direct coloring. They are hardly visible on dark hair. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a new process for temporarily coloring the keratin fibers which does not have the drawbacks of the prior art colorations, in particular a process that respects the integrity of the keratin fibers and allows intense colorations to be obtained, visible both on light hair and on dark hair, which resist water or rubs, but which are largely eliminated with the first application of shampoo and which are easy to use. This aim is achieved with the present invention, which has as its object a process for coloring keratin fibers consisting of the application of a composition containing at least one anionic colored polymer with anionic chromophore and at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from an oil non-siliconized, an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant, a non-associative and non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic or anionic carboxylic fixative polymer and an organic silicon compound having less than 6 silicon atoms, this application not being followed by a fiber rinsing step. .

The method of the present invention makes it possible, in particular, to obtain a temporary and rapid keratin fiber coloration, which can be carried out in a single step, without degradation of the keratin fibers, with a silky touch and a high gloss. The resulting coloration is instantly visible. Drying can be carried out immediately, for example with a hair dryer or in a helmet. You can also dry your hair outdoors. The obtained colorations are fleeting, since they are diffused from the first application of shampoo and disappear in several shampoo applications. The method of the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a visible coloration of natural or discolored light hair, as well as of natural or colored dark hair, for example by oxidation or direct coloring. By colored polymer, it is meant a polymer chain with pendent grafts constituted by coloring units. This colored polymer may be charged, but the anionic charge of the polymer is carried by the colored graft. The nature of the polymer charge may be identical or different from that of the colored graft. There may be several charges per repetitive unit. The overall nature of the charge of the compound in solution is pH dependent. This chain The polymer can be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric and can be totally or partially soluble in water. The overall charge of the polymer must be anionic. Such a polymer includes, for example, at least one unit represented by: wherein COL represents the chromophore that is attached to the polymer backbone, either directly, either by means of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain X, of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and at least one of its carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from sulfur, silicon, phosphorus, selenium, nitrogen or oxygen or by a group S02, the hydrocarbon chain being able to be substituted or not, having the polymer at least one negative charge carried by the chromophore, and n represents the number of repetitive units of this type present in the polymer. In general, n is between 1 and 1,000, preferably between 1 and 500. Y is the counter ion. These polymers can be block, sequenced or statistical. As a substitute for the carbon chain, you can mention the alkyl, hydroxy, alkoxy or hydroxyalkyl radicals, the halogens, the amino radicals and the amino radicals mono- or disubstituted by an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical. As chromophores, the radicals from nitrobenzene, azo, phenothiazine, xanthine or phenanthridine dyes, phthalocyanines, triarylmethane derivatives and those obtained from direct dyes with carbonyl group can be mentioned. Among chromophores of this type, mention may be made, for example, of chromophores from dyes selected from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthrantron, pyrantrone, pyrazolantrone, pyrimidinoantrone, flavantrone, indantrone, flavone, (iso) violantrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, digotopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin. As an example of colored polymers, the following can be mentioned: I Poly S-119 (orange) G I O, Na * As examples of anionic chromophore, there may be mentioned the chromophores substituted by at least one sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate or sulfate group. By way of example, the radicals derived from the direct nitrated acid dyes, from the acidic azo dyes, from the acidic acid dyes, from the acid triarylmethane dyes, from the acidic indoamin dyes can be mentioned and natural non-quinonic acid dyes. As an anionic colored polyelectrolyte, those described in US Pat. 4,911,731, USA 6,306,182, EP 852,943, EP 747,036, US. 4,381,260, USA 4,314,808, USA 4,144,252 and USA 4,051,138. By way of example, the colored anionic polymer corresponds to the formula: or o where COL is an anionic chromophore radical and Y the counterion. The amount of polyelectrolyte colored in the composition applied on the fibers is, in general, between 0.01 and 20%, preferably between 0.1 and 5%. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is an aqueous composition. By oil, for the purposes of the present invention, a liquid substance is understood at room temperature, for example at 25 ° C, and under atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in water. By insoluble in water, for the purposes of the present invention, a substance having a solubility in pure water of less than 1% at 25 ° C and under atmospheric pressure is understood.

The oils used in the present invention have a dynamic viscosity at 25 ° C of less than 1 Pa. s (1,000 cps), preferably comprised between 10"3 and 0.1 Pa. s (1 and 100 cps) The dynamic viscosity is measured at 25 ° C, with a cutoff ratio of 100 s_1, for example with the apparatus referenced as RM 180 Rheomat from METTLER The oils that can be used in the present invention are preferably selected from vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, liquid fatty acid esters and liquid fatty acids.

Among the vegetable oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, oil of wheat germ, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, copra oil, corn oil, oil hazelnut, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil and calofile oil. Examples of mineral oils are paraffin oil and petrolatum oil. Synthesis oils can be specially selected among polydecenes, squalane, poly (α-olefins) such as isododecane or isohexadecane, oils transesterifed plants and fluorinated oils. Fatty acid esters can also be used, such as, for example, compounds of the formula RaCOORb, where Ra represents the residue of a higher fatty acid of 6 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a hydrocarbon chain of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, such as Purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , the 2-hexyldecyl laurate, the 2-octyldecyl palmitate and the myristate or the 2-octyldodecyl lactate. You can also use liquid fatty acids, such as oleic acid. Particularly preferred oils are liquid fatty acids, liquid fatty esters and vegetable oils. The oil or oils as defined above is or are preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 95% by weight, even more preferably in an amount of 1 to 60% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. The alkylpolyglycoside surfactants present in the composition are surfactants well known in the state of the art. These surfactants can be more particularly represented by the following general formula: R 10 - (R 20) t (G) v wherein R x represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical of about 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical bears 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R 2 represents an alkylene radical of about 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit of 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t designates a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, and v denotes a value from 1 to 15. According to a particular embodiment, the alkyl polyglucoside surfactants are compounds of formula (II) wherein Ri more particularly designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical , linear or branched, of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value of 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0 and G may designate glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, ie, the value of v in formula (II), can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly comprised between 1 and 2. The glycosidic linkages between the sugar units are of type 1-6 or 1-4 and preferably 1-4. Compounds of formula (II) are especially represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1,200 and 2,000) or PLANTACARE © (818, 1,200 and 2,000). You can also use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG110 (or ORAMIX CG 10) and TRITON CG312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company B.A.S.F. under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or also those sold by the company CHEM AND under the name AGIO LK. Mention may also be made of C8 alkyl / Ci6-polyglucoside 1.4 in 53% aqueous solution marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP. The amount of alkylpolyglycoside surfactants present in the composition is, in general, comprised between 0.6 and 30%, preferably between 0.5 and 10%, with respect to the total weight of the composition. By "fixative polymer", in the sense of the present application, a polymer is understood which makes it possible to shape or maintain the shape of keratin fibers, such as hair. By non-associative polymer, it is meant a polymer that does not contain a hydrophobic chain, especially carbon chains having more than 10 carbon atoms. All cationic, amphoteric, nonionic fixative polymers and mixtures thereof used in the art can be used in the compositions according to the present application. Anionic fixative polymers are anionic polymers with carboxylic function. The fixing polymers are soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium. The anionic fixing polymers have a number average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5,000,000. The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula: R7 (Ai) n- COOH \ / CC = (I) / \ R8 g where n is an integer from 0 to 10; Ai designates a methylene group, optionally attached to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 by means of a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur; R7 designates a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group; Re designates a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group; and R9 designates a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a group -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl. In the aforementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers with preferred carboxylic groups according to the invention are: A) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names ULTRAHOLD® by the company BASF, the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of its sodium salts under the names RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES and the sodium salts of the polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylene monomer, such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and in German Patent No. 2,330,956, the copolymers of this type carrying in their chain an optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit, such as those described especially in Luxembourg patent applications No. 75,370 and 75,371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by the company AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of the copolymers of acrylic acid and C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and the terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C 1 -C 2 alkyl methacrylate, for example of lauryl, such such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLI DONE © LM and the terpolymers of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tere-butyl acrylate, such as the product marketed under the name LUVIMER® 100 P by the company BASF. Mention may also be made of the copolymer of methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate in aqueous dispersion, marketed under the name AMERHOLD® DR 25 by the company AMERCHOL. C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those carrying vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers, such as the allylic or metalylic esters, the vinyl ether or the vinyl ester of a linear saturated carboxylic acid or branched, hydrocarbon long chain, such as those carrying at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may be optionally grafted or crosslinked, or else another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents No. 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products that fall into this class are resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 marketed by the company National Starch. D) Copolymers of C4-Cs monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides selected from: - the copolymers including (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from the vinyl esters, the vinyl ethers, the vinyl halides, the fenilvinyl derivatives, the acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated. Such polymers are described, in particular, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,047,398, 2, 723, 248 and 2,102,113 and GB patent No. 839, 805. These are commercial products, especially those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the company ISP.; - copolymers including (i) one or more units of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride and (ii) one or more monomers selected from the allylic or metalylic esters optionally carrying one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, ester groups acrylics or methacrylics, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone in its chain; the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are, for example, described in French Patent Nos. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the Applicant.

E) Polyacrylamides bearing carboxylate groups. Homopolymers and copolymers having sulfonic groups are polymers carrying vinylsulfonic units, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic. These polymers can be especially selected from: - salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; - the salts of the polystyrenesulfonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example, under the name Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2,198,719; - the salts of polyacrylamide sulfonic acids, such as those mentioned in US Pat. 4,128,631, and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name COS EDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by HENKEL. As another anionic fixative polymer which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the branched, anionic polymer of the anionic copolymer type of (meth) acrylic acid, of alkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of allyl methacrylate called copolymer of MAP-Acrylate / Alil methacrylate, sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company NOVEON. According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the terpolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold especially under the name ULTRAHOLD® STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as the terpolymers of vinyl acetate / tert-butyl-vinylbenzoate / crotonic acid and the terpolymers of crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / neodo-decanoate of vinyl sold especially under the name Résine 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, fenilvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as methyl vinyl ether / anhydride copolymers monoesterified male sold, for example, under the name GANTREZ® by the ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT © L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name LUVISET CA 66 by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate / acid copolymers crotonic grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name ARISTOFLEX® A by the company BASF and the polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company NOVEON. Among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, it is preferred to use monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name GANTREZ® ES 425 by the company ISP, terpolymers of acrylic acid / acrylate, more particularly in the context of the present invention. of ethyl / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, the terpolymers of vinyl acetate / tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid and the terpolymers of crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / neododecanoate sold under the designation Résine 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate sold under the name ACRYLI DONE® LM by the company ISP and the polymer sold under the Fixate B-100 nomination by the company NOVEON. The film-forming cationic polymeric polymers usable according to the present invention are preferably selected from polymers bearing primary amine groups, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary that form part of the polymer chain or are directly linked to it, and that have a molecular weight between 500 and approximately 5,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000. Among these polymers, Mention may more particularly be made of the following cationic polymers: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or from acrylic or methacrylic amides and bearing at least one of the units of the following formulas: where R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A is a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; 'R4, RB and R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group of 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; Ri and R2, identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X designates a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of the family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which can be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and substituted methacrylamides on nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (Ci-C4) , groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their asters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam and vinyl asters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC © by the company HERCULES; - the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080,976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY; the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name RETAIN by the company HERCULES; the copolymers of quaternized or not vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT®" by the company ISP, such as "GAFQUAT® 734" or "GAFQUAT® 755", or products called "COPOLYMER® 845, 958 and 937." These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573; the terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP; and - the quaternized dimethylaminopropyl vinylpyrrolidone / meta-crilamide copolymers, such as the product marketed under the name "GAFQUAT® HS 100" by the company ISP. (2) Cationic polysaccharides, preferably quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are marketed especially under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15 or JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL. (3) The quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylimidazole. (4) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose copolymers, or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer carrying a quaternary ammonium, and which are especially described in US Pat. 4,131,576, such as the hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloyloxyethtimethylimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The products marketed that meet this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the National Starch Company. The amphoteric fixative polymers which can be used according to the present invention can be selected from polymers bearing units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chainwherein B denotes a unit derived from a monomer carrying at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer carrying one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or B and C may designate monomer-derived groups zwitterionics of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C can also designate a cationic polymer chain carrying primary, secondary amine groups, tertiary or quaternary, where at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxyl or sulfonic group linked by means of a hydrocarbon radical, or B and C are part of a chain of a polymer with ethylene-α-β-dicarboxylic unit where one of the carboxylic groups has reacted with a polyamine carrying one or more primary or secondary amine groups. Amphoteric fixative polymers that meet the above given more particularly preferred definition are selected from the following polymers: (1) Copolymers with acid vinyl units and with basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a compound vinyl carrier of a carboxylic group, such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid or alpha-chloracrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as more particularly methacrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and the dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. (2) Polymers bearing derivative units: a) of at least one monomer selected from the acrylamides or substituted methacrylamides on the atom of nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) of at least one acid comonomer having one or more reactive carboxylic groups and c) of at least one basic comonomer such as asters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of the acrylic acid and methacrylate and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate. The N-substi tuted acrylamides or methacrylamides more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups carry from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N -tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecyl acrylamide, as well as the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are selected more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids, as well as the alkyl monoesters of 1 to 4 carbon atoms of the maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl or N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. Particularly used are copolymers whose CTFA designation (4th Ed., 1991) is a copolymer of Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH. (3) The crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides partially or totally derived from polyaminoamides of the general formula: - [-CO-R10-CO-Z-] - (II) where Rio represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono- or di-ca-boxy acid with a double ethylenic bond, an ester of a lower alkanol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any one of the acids with a bisprimary amine obisse cu nda ria, and Z designates a radical of a po 1 ia 1 qu i 1 enpo 1 i ami na bisprimaria, mono-obisse cunda ria, and preferably represents: a) in proportions of 60 to 100% molar, the group where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2, deriving this group from diethylenetriamine, from tri-ethylenetetraamine or from dipropylenetriamine; b) in proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (IV) above, where x = 2 and p = l and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or The group derived from piperazine: / \ NN \ / c) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH- (CH2) 6_NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of ep i ha 1 oh idri na s, the diepoxides, the dianhydrides and the bis-unsaturated derivatives by means of 0.025 to 0.35 moles of crosslinking agent per amine group of the po I amamino and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloracetic acid or one to one his 11th year or his salts. Saturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from the acids of 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2-trimethyladipic and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic and terephthalic acid, and acids with double ethylenic coupling, such as for example acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids. The alkanesultones used in the acylation are preferably propane- or butane-sultone and the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) Polymers that carry zwitterionic units formula: where R n denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, Ri 2 and R 13 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R 14 and Ri5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10. Polymers including such units may also carry units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such as acrylate or dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. By way of example, mention may be made of the methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethyl ammonium methyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ. (5) Polymers that respond to the general formula (V) they are for example described in the French patent 1,400,366 and are constituted by units: wherein R2o represents a hydrogen atom, a group CH30, CH3CH2O or phenyl; R21 designates hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical, such as methyl or ethyl; R22 designates hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical Ci-C6, such as methyl or ethyl; R23 designates a C1-C6 lower alkyl radical, such as methyl or ethyl, or a radical corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 2 / R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2 - or -CH2-CH (CH3) - and R22 having the meanings mentioned above. (6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxy-alkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "EVALSAN" by the company JAN DEKKER. (7) Amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X-selected from: a) polymers obtained by the action of acid Chloroacetic or sodium chloracetate on compounds bearing at least one unit of the formula: -D-X-D-X-D- (VI) where D denotes a group / \ N N \ / and X designates the symbol E or E '; E or E ', identical or different, designate a bivalent group, which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group carrying up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which can also carry oxygen atoms , of nitrogen or sulfur or of 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, of hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane; b) the polymers of the formula: -D-X-D-X- (VI ') where D denotes a group / \ N N \ / and X designates the symbol E or E 'and at least once E', where E has the meaning indicated above, and E 'being a group bivalent, which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group of up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and bearing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by a alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily bearing one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions, and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloracetate. (8) The alkyl (Ci-C5) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semi-amidation with a N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semi-esterification with a N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol . These copolymers can also carry other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam.

Among the amphoteric fixative polymers mentioned above, as more particularly preferred according to the invention, those of the family (3), such as copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylamino-ethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the designations AMPHOMER®, AMPHOMER® LV 71 or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, and those of the family (4), such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethyl-ammonium methyl methacrylate sold, for example, under the denomination DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ. The nonionic fixing polymers which can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines; - vinyl acetate homopolymers; - vinyl acetate copolymers, such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of maleate of dibutyl; - the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, such as, for example, the copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, such as the products proposed by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names PRIMAL® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT © NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845 and by the company HOECHST under the name APPRETAN © N9212; - the copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; the products proposed under the name CJ 0601 B by the company ROHM & HAAS; - styrene homopolymers; styrene copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth) acrylate, such such as the products MO ILITH® LDM 6911, MO ILITH® DM 611 and MOWILITH® LDM 6070, proposed by the company HOECHST; the products RHODOPAS® SD 215 and RHODOPAS® DS 910 proposed by the company RHONE POULENC; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; the copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or the copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine; - polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® PLUS by the company BASF; and vinyllactam copolymers, such as a copolymer of poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65 by the company BASF; copolymers of poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate), such as those marketed under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; and the terpolymers of poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate), such as, for example, the one sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF. The alkyl groups of the aforementioned nonionic polymers preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. They can also be used as fixative polymers functionalized or non-functionalized polyurethanes, silicone or non-cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric or their mixtures.

As polyurethanes which are particularly suitable in the present invention, mention may be made of polyurethane / polysiloxane block anion polymers, products marketed under the names LUVISET PUR® and LUVISET® Si PUR by the company BASF. In a particularly advantageous manner, the compositions according to the invention contain, as the non-ionic fixative polymer, a vinyllactam copolymer, such as polyvinyl pyrrolidones, a copolymer of poly (vi-nylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam), a copolymer of poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) ) or a terpolymer of poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate). According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains, as a fixing polymer, an anionic or non-ionic polymer, preferably nonionic. The concentration of fixative polymer (s) used in the compositions according to the present invention is between 0.1 and 20%, preferably between 0.5 and 10%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. ORGANIC SILICON COMPOUNDS As an organic compound of silicon, silicones and silanes can be cited in particular. The silicones that can be used in the composition can be soluble or insoluble in the composition. The insoluble silicones are especially dispersed in the composition in the form of particles generally having a number average size between 2 nanometers and 100 micrometers, preferably between 20 nanometers and 20 micrometers (measured with a granulometer). The polyorganosiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of alter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile. Thus, the composition according to the invention can include at least one volatile polyorganosiloxane, selected from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C, and more particularly between: (i) the cyclic silicones carrying 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed especially under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, or by the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE or " SILBIONE 70045 V 5"by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as "SILICONE" VOLATILE FZ 3109"commercialized by the company UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure: with D with D 'Cyclic silicone mixtures can also be cited with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimeti 1 if 1 i 1 pen taerythritol 1 (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1, 1 '- (hexa-2, 2, 2', 2 ', 3, 3' -trimethylsilyloxy) bisneopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 5 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10"6 m2 / s at 25 ° C. This is, for example, that of meat ti 11 etrasi 1 ox a It is not specifically mentioned under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE, and also describes silicones that enter this class in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32 - TODD & amp; BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

Useful siloxanes may also be selected from the organs and loxanes of the formula: Ri R'4 \ / N - R3 - Si / \ R2 R5 0 Re / Rg-Si \ R7 where: Rif R2Í R3Í 5 and 6 are as defined above; R'4 represents a halogen or an ORn group; R7 represents a halogen, a group OR10 or R "i, Rg represents a halogen, a group 0R8, R" '2 or R3NRiR2; "if" 2; R8 Rio and R11 represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups, such as basic solubilizing groups; where Rn, Rio and Re also designate hydrogen. Preferably, R "i, R" 2 > Rs or Ri0 and Rn represent a C1-12 alkyl group, a C5-14 aryl group, an alkyl group (Ci_ 8) aryl (C5-14) and an aryl (C5-14) alkyloyl group (Ci-g). At least one of the groups R6, R7 and Rg represents a halogen or an OR '' ', OR10 or 0R8 group. Preferably, the halogen is chlorine. Particularly preferred silicones in the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. As the organosilicon compound, the silanes can be mentioned in particular. For example, the silanes of formula (1) (RiO) x (R2) and Si- (A) p- [NR3- (A ') p.] Q- [NR'3- (A ") p-] q. -Si- (R'2) and (OR'i) x- (1) where Rif R2r R '1 and R' 2 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from the ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x is an integer from 1 to 3, y = 3-x; x 'is a number whole from 1 to 3; p "= O or l; q = O or 1; q '= O or l; it being understood that at least q or q 'is different from zero. A, A 'and A "each independently represent a divalent linear or branched C1-C20 alkylene radical, R3 and R' 3 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more ether groups, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted by one or more ester groups of C3-C2o alcohol, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl, the cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetic agent selected from polymers with a molecular weight of at least 500, surfactants and non-silicone fatty substances According to a particular embodiment, the silanes of formula (1) are such that Ri = R'i, R2 = R'2, x = x ', y = y', p = p ', TO = A ', q = l and q' = 0. In particular, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) wherein Ri, R2, R '1 and R'2, identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl. According to another embodiment, p = p '= 1 and A and A', identical or different, represent a linear alkylene C1-C4. Mention may also be made especially of compounds where R 3 represents hydrogen. By way of example, there may be mentioned: - bis [3- (triethoxysilyl1) propyl] amine, of the formula: (CH3CH20) 3-Si- (CH2) 3-NH- (CH2) 3-Si- (OCH2CH3 ) 3, - bis [trimethoxysilylpropyl] amine, of the formula: (CH 3 O) 3-Si- (CH 2) 3-NH- (CH 2) 3-Si- (OCH 3) 3, - bis [methyldiethoxysilylpropyl] amine, of the formula : (CH3CH20) 2CH3-Si- (CH2) 3-NH- (CH2) 3-Si-CH3 (OCH2CH3) 2, bis [(3-trimethoxysilyl) propyl] ethylene diamine, of the formula: (CH3O) 3- Si- (CH2) 3-NH- (CH2) 2-NH- (CH2) 3-Si- (OCH3) 3- Among these compounds, bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine is preferred. The silanes can also be represented by the following formula (2): where R21 and R22 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from the ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups; Xi = 2 or 3; Yi = 3-x; ni = 0 or 1; n'i = 0 or 1; A and A 'each independently represent a linear or branched C1-C20 divalent alkylene radical; R23 and R24 each independently represent hydrogen or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more ether groups, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C3o aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or otherwise, optionally substituted by one or more Ci-C2o alcohol ester groups > amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl; qi is an integer from 0 to; q 'i = 0 or 1; the R25 group (s) each independently representing hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more ether groups, C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C 6 -C 30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or otherwise, optionally substituted by one or more alcohol ester groups C1-C20I amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl; whose composition also contains at least one compound selected from hydroxylated solvents, polymers, surfactants and fatty substances. According to one embodiment, R2i is a C1-C4 alkyl. According to another modality, x1 = 3. According to a different modality, ?? = n '1 = 1 and qi and q' 1 can be equal to 0. R23 and R24 can independently represent hydrogen or a group selected from C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups. By way of example of compounds of formula (2), there may be mentioned: 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, of the formula: - p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, of the formula: - the N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane, of the formula: As the silane compound, mention may still be made of organosilicon compounds of the formula: (R "iO) x" (R "2) y-Si- (A) p" -CH = 0 (3) or of the formula ( R "iO) x" (R "2) and" -Si- (A) p "-CH (OR" 3) (OR "4) (4) where the R" i, identical or different, and R " 2 each independently represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from the ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups; x "= 2 or 3; and" = 3-x '; A represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkylene divalent radical optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more C 1 -C 30 alcohol ester groups, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C 6 -C 3 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl; p "= O or 1; R" 3 and R "4 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more ether groups, C 1 -C 20 alcohol, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C 6 -C 30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or otherwise, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester groups, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane , hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl According to a first embodiment, R "i and R" 2 are selected from C1-C4 alkyls According to a second embodiment, p "= 1. According to another embodiment, A is a linear alkylene C1-C4. By way of example of silane compounds of formulas (3) or (4), there may be mentioned: triethoxysilyl butyraldehyde, of the formula: - triethoxysilylundecanal, of the formula: (CH3CH2O) 3-Si- (CH2) io-CH = 0 - triethoxysilylundecanal, ethylene glycol acetal, of the formula: (CH3CH2O) 3-Si - (CH2) 10-CH (0CH2) 2 According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the silane compound is selected from triethoxysilyl butyraldehyde.

Other useful organosilanes correspond to the formula: Ri R 4 / N - R 3 - Si - R 5 / R 2 R 6 where: R represents a halogen or an OR 'or R' i group; R5 represents a halogen or an OR "or R'2 group, R6 represents a halogen or an OR '' 'or R'3 group, and Ri, R2, R3, R', R", R '' ', R' i, R'2 and R'3 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups such as acid groups or amines, Ri, R2, R ', R "and R '' 'further designate hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R4, R5 and R6 are different from the groups R'i, R'2 and R'3, preferably Ri, R2, R', R "and R '' ', R'i, R'2 and R'3 represent a C1-12 alkyl group, a C5-14 aryl group, an alkyl (Ci-s) aryl group (C5-14) and a aryl group (C5-14) alkyl (Ci_e); and R3 is preferably an alkylene group Ci_i2, arylene C5_i4, alkyl (Ci-8) arylene (C5-14) and aryl (C5-14) alkylene (Ci-e) · Preferred organosilicon compounds are 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyl-methyldiethoxysilane and 3- [bis (hydroxyethyl) amino] propyl-triethoxysilane. The particularly preferred compound is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. The organic silicon compound (s) presented above is (are) preferably present in an amount between 0.01 and 95% by weight, even more preferably in an amount comprised between 1 and 60% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition. Optionally, the composition may contain a silicone oil. As examples, mention may be made in particular of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), phenylated polyorganosiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylmetyldimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, phenyldimethicones and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, optionally fluorinated; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones and perfluorinated silicone oils. Mention may be made, for example, of polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, silicones bearing polyoxyalkylene sequences or grafts, in particular of polyoxyethylene or copoly (oxyethylene / oxypropylene), such as dimethicone copolyols, silicones which are at the same time hydrophobic hydrocarbon groups (for example, C2-C30 alkyl groups) and polyoxyethylenated sequences or grafts or copolys (oxyethylenated / oxypropylenated), such as alkyldimethicone copolyols, silicones bearing fluorinated or perfluorinated groups such as perfluoroalkylated polydimethylsiloxanes and perfluoroalkylated polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. These silicone oils can optionally carry alkyl or alkoxy groups at the end of the silicone chain 0 pending. According to a variant, the composition containing the colored polymer contains an organic and / or mineral salt. As organic salt, we can mention sodium citrate. As a mineral salt, mention may be made of sodium chloride, ammonium sulfate, magnesium chloride or calcium chloride. The amount of organic or mineral salts is, in general, comprised between 1CT4 and 2 mol / 1, preferably between 1CT3 and 1 mol / 1. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the amount of salts is between 10"2 and 1 mol / 1. The composition useful in the process of the present invention may include water or a mixture of water and at least one non-oily organic solvent to solubilize compounds that would not be sufficiently soluble in water. As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, the lower alkandes C1-C4, such as ethanol and isopropanol; the polyols and ethers of polyols, such as 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol and monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The non-oily solvents are preferably present in proportions preferably comprised between 0.5 and 80% by weight approximately with respect to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 60% by weight approximately. The colored polymers will preferably be selected from colored polymers soluble or partially soluble in water at room temperature. The compositions useful in the process of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular the polymeric anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric thickeners, agents antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, ceramides, preservatives and opacifying agents. The compositions useful in the process of the invention may also contain at least one polymer thickener, also called "rheology adjusting agent".

The thickening agents can be selected from fatty acid amides (diethano- or monoethanol-copra-amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives ( hydroxypropilguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and the associative polymers (water-soluble polymers having hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic regions of fatty chain capable) in a medium aqueous, to associate reversibly with each other or with other molecules). Useful compositions may also contain other types of surfactants, such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. The compositions applied on the keratin fibers may also include one or more oxidation dye precursors: one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers. As an example, the oxidation bases are selected from para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

The oxidation base (s) present are generally present in an amount comprised between 0.001 and 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6%. The compositions may contain one or more couplers conventionally used for the staining of keratin fibers. Among these copulants, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers and heterocyclic couplers, as well as their addition salts, can be mentioned in particular. The copulant (s) are generally present in an amount comprised between 0.001 and 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6%. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are especially selected from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines. The useful compositions may also contain one or more additional direct dyes, which may be especially selected from the nitric dyes of the benzene series, neutral, acidic or cationic, the direct neutral, acidic or cationic azo dyes, the direct dyes quinonic and in particular anthraquinone neutral, acidic or cationic dyes, the direct dyes azinic, the direct dyes triarylmethanic , direct indoaminic dyes and natural direct dyes. The direct dye (s) generally represent from 0.001 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the aqueous solution in which they are present, even more preferably from 0.005 to 10% approximately. The pH of the composition applied on the fibers is, in general, between 2 and 12, preferably between 3 and 8. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in staining the keratinous fibers, or also with the help of classic buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and the like. lactic acid and sulfonic acids. Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolaraines such as the mono-, di- and triethanolamines, as well as their derivatives, the sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of the following formula (II): Ra R \ / NWN (II) / \ Re Rd where W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd? identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C alkyl radical or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical. When the composition includes at least one oxidation dye precursor, or when a lightening coloration is to be used, an oxidizing agent may be used. The oxidizing agents conventionally used for the oxidation staining of keratin fibers are, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidases. , among which we can mention peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenates such as laccases. Hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. This oxidizing agent may also be present in a or another of the compositions useful in the invention or to be applied independently. The oxidizing composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions and such as those defined above. The composition containing the colored polymer can be in different galenic forms, especially in the form of emulsions, of microemulsions or nanoemulsions, of biphasic lotions or in anhydrous form. According to the method of the invention, the resting time of each of the compositions is not a limiting factor, since it is possible to obtain the coloration of the keratin fibers instantaneously, which allows the drying of the fibers from the end of the application of the composition containing the colored poly-electrolyte. It is, however, possible to respect a time of rest. According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention can include one or more pretreatment steps, for example a pretreatment step with a cationic polymer, this or these pretreatment steps of a rinsing step can be followed. The process of the invention can be carried out at a temperature ranging from room temperature (20-25 ° C) to 200 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.

In the context of the invention, the method of the invention is performed on dark hair naturally or after a stain, especially hair having a pitch height of less than 6, preferably less than or equal to 4. Tone heights are usually used in hair coloring. They are especially described in "Science de Traitements Capillaires", by C. ZVIAK, Ed. Masson 1988, p. 278. This classification is as follows: 1) Black 2) Brown 3) Dark chestnut 4) Chestnut 5) Light chestnut 6) Dark blond 7) Blonde 8) Light blond 9) Very light blond 10) Light clear blond The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, presenting a limiting character. EXAMPLES Example 1: A biphasic lotion consisting of 80% water and 20% oleic acid and containing 0.5% poly S-119 on a strand of natural hair with 90% white hair. The application is not followed either by a rinse stage or by a drying stage. The orange coloration obtained is very aesthetic and is erased from the first application of shampoo. Example 2: The lotion of example 1 containing 0.3% Poly (Disperse red 13 methacrylate) is applied instead of 0.5% poly S-119 on a hair strand with 90% natural white. The application is immediately followed by a drying stage with a dryer. The hair is colored red aesthetically. This coloration is erased with the first application of shampoo. Example 3: A solution consisting of 3% alkyl (Cg / Cio 50/50) polyglucoside in 60% aqueous solution of water (csp 100) and containing 0.5% poly S-119 is applied with the aid of a spray generator foam on a strand of natural hair with 90% white hair. The application was followed by a drying step. The hair is colored in orange. Example: A solution consisting of 3% alkyl (Ce / Cio 50/50) polyglucoside in 60% aqueous solution of water (csp 100) and containing 0.5% PAZO is applied with the help of a spray generator foam on a strand of natural hair with 90% white hair. The application is followed by a drying step. The hair is colored yellow. Example 5: A solution consisting of hydroxyethylcellulose (2.5%) and FIXATE G 100 (4.2%) and containing 0.5% of poly S-119 and 3-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol in such an amount is applied. that the solution has a pH of 7 on a natural gray hair with 90% of white hairs. The application is followed by a drying step. The orange coloration obtained is very aesthetic. Example 6: An aerosol is prepared from a composition containing 33% DE, 20% ethanol, 0.5% poly S-119, 5% LUVISET Si PUR, 3-amino-2-methyl -l-propanol in an amount such that the pH of the composition is equal to 7 and water (csp 100%). The composition is then applied to a lock of natural gray hair with 90% white hair by means of an aerosol. A very aesthetic orange coloration is obtained from the application. Example 7: A lock of bleached hair (high alkaline solubility) is pretreated with an aqueous solution of 10% 3-aminopropyltriethylsilane and at pH 8. After rinsing, Apply a hydroalcoholic lotion (50/50) containing 0.5% PEACE. The hair is colored yellow. This coloration is erased with the first shampoo. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (23)

1. CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1. Hair coloring process consisting of the application of a composition characterized in that it contains at least one anionic colored polymer having an anionic chromophore and at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from a non-silicone oil, an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant, a non-associative nonionic, amphoteric, cationic or anionic carboxylic fixative polymer and an organic silicon compound having less than 6 silicon atoms, this application not being followed by a fiber rinsing stage.
2. 2. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the chromophore is replaced by at least one sulphonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate or sulfate group.
3. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colored polymer is present in the composition in an amount comprised between 0.01 and 20%, preferably between 0.1 and 5%.
4. 4. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more Colored polymers characterized in that they are selected from:
5. 5. Process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-silicone oil is selected from among vegetable oils, the mineral oils, synthetic oils, esters of liquid fatty acids and liquid fatty acids.
6. 6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the oil is selected from liquid fatty acids, liquid fatty esters and vegetable oils.
7. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quantity of oil contained in the composition is between 0.01 and 95% by weight and preferably between 1 and 60%.
8. 8. Process according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucoside surfactant is represented by the following general formula: RiO- (R20) t (G) v where Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical carries from 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R 2 represents an alkylene radical of about 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit of 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t designates a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, and v designates a value from 1 to 15.
9. Process according to claim 8, characterized in that the alkyl polyglycoside surfactants are such that Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical of 8 to 18 carbon atoms; t designates a value from 0 to 3; G may designate glucose, fructose or galactose, and v varies from 1 to 15.
10. Process according to claim 9, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucoside surfactants are such that t equals 0 and G designates glucose.
11. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of alkylpolyglucoside surfactants is between 0.1 and 90% and preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
12. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing polymer is selected from anionic and nonionic polymers.
13. 13. Method according to claim 12, characterized in that the fixative polymer is anionic.
14. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing polymer is selected from the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers, the terpolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butylacrylamide, the terpolymers of vinyl acetate / tert-butylbenzoate vinyl / crotonic acid and the terpolymers of crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, the terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, the anionic acid copolymers (met ) acrylic, of alkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of allyl methacrylate, the homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and the polyurethanes of the anionic block polyurethane polyurethane / polysiloxane type.
15. 15. Procedure in accordance with the claim 14, characterized in that the amount of fixative polymer contained in the composition is between 0.01 and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.5 and 10%.
16. 16. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound of silicon is selected from silicones and silanes.
17. Method according to claim 16, characterized in that the silane compound is selected from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxy-silane and 3- [bis (hydroxyethyl) amino] propyltriethoxysilane.
18. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that the silane compound is 3-aminopropyltriethoxy-silane.
19. 19. Process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound of silicon is included in an amount comprised between 0.01 and 95% by weight and preferably comprised between 1 and 60%.
20. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains one or more organic and / or mineral salts.
21. 21. Process according to claim 20, characterized in that the organic and / or mineral salts are selected from sodium citrate, sodium chloride, ammonium sulfate, magnesium chloride or calcium chloride.
22. 22. Method according to any of claims 20 or 21, characterized in that the amount of salts is between 10 ~ 4 and 2 mol / 1, preferably between 10"3 and 1 mol / 1.
23. 23. Method of compliance with any of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that for coloring hair having a pitch height less than or equal to 4.