FR3006891A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MINERAL WAX, A FATTY ACID, A MINERAL OIL, A SURFACTANT, A FATTY ACID ESTER AND / OR FATTY ALCOHOL, A FIXING POLYMER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least one mineral wax, (ii) at least one fatty acid, (iii) at least one mineral oil, (iv) at least one surfactant, (v) at least one ester of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol and (vi) at least one fixing polymer.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one mineral wax, at least one mineral wax, at least one at least one fatty acid, at least one mineral oil, at least one surfactant, at least one fatty acid ester and / or fatty alcohol ester and at least one fixing polymer, as well as the use of such a composition for hair treatment, especially for the treatment of keratinous fibers and in particular for maintaining / shaping the hair.

Hair styling products are mainly in the form of more or less viscous pastes that are applied to the hair with the hands. However, styling waxes are often sticky and greasy. In addition, the hairstyle obtained is difficult to repositionable and has a tacky rendering. There is therefore a real need to have a cosmetic composition that has good styling and cosmetic properties, and that overcomes the disadvantages mentioned above. The Applicant has discovered that by combining at least one mineral wax, at least one fatty acid, at least one mineral oil, at least one surfactant and at least one fatty acid ester and / or fatty alcohol, it was possible to obtain styling waxes with improved use qualities and improved styling performance. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, comprising (i) at least one mineral wax, (ii) at least one fatty acid, (iii) at least one mineral oil, (iv) at least one surfactant, (v) at least one fatty acid ester and / or fatty alcohol ester and at least one fixing polymer.

The cosmetic composition is preferably a styling and / or conditioning composition for keratinous fibers, in particular for styling keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for maintaining and / or shaping keratinous fibers, using the cosmetic composition as defined above. The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for the hair treatment, in particular for the treatment of keratin fibers and in particular for maintaining and / or shaping the hair. The resulting composition is easy to distribute in the hands and then on the hair.

In addition, the hairstyle is quick to get in shape. The hair is not very sticky and we get a hairstyle with a natural look. The hairstyle is improved and the re-hair is easier.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral wax. The waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic, solid, deformable or non-deformable compounds, at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a point of melting greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. By carrying one or more waxes, according to the invention, in the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make them or to be miscible with one or more oils and to form a mixture of wax (es) and oil. (S), macroscopically homogeneous, but by bringing the temperature of said mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax (es) in the oil (s) of the mixture is obtained. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax, placed in a crucible, is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to - 20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, preferably solid at room temperature, of mineral origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mineral wax" means a wax derived from petroleum, such as paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin or microcrystalline waxes, for example microcrystalline waxes having a melting point greater than 85%. ° C such as HI-MICO products 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 marketed by the company NIPPON SEIRO. According to a particular embodiment, the wax used in a composition according to the invention has a melting point greater than 35 ° C., better than 40 ° C. or even 45 ° C., or even 55 ° C. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a microcrystalline wax and / or ozokerite. The content of mineral wax (es) varies preferably from 5 to 40%, preferably from 10 to 35%, more preferably from 12 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one fatty acid. The fatty acid can be liquid or non-liquid.

The term "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the fatty acids of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

Saturated liquid fatty acids are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. Isostearic acid may be mentioned more particularly. The unsaturated fatty acids have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated. These unsaturated fatty acids can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. In a first variant, the fatty acids of the invention are liquid. There may be mentioned more particularly oleic acid. In a second variant of the invention, particularly preferred, the fatty acid is non-liquid and preferably solid.

The non-liquid fatty acids that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated acids, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

Examples of such fatty acids are stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 7%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more mineral oils. The term "oil" means any lipophilic compound, nonionic, insoluble in water and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble" is intended to mean a compound whose solubility at spontaneous pH in water at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure is less than 1% and preferably less than 0.5%. . The oils preferably have a melting temperature of less than 5 ° C and a viscosity of less than 500 cPs at 25 ° C at a shear rate of 1s -1. The term "mineral oils" means hydrocarbons in the form of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated oils, of mineral or synthetic origin, which can be hydrogenated. The mineral oils used in the present invention are chosen from mineral oils, as defined above, usually used in the cosmetics field. As examples of mineral oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: - mixtures of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum (INCI name: Ore Oil), - paraffin oil, volatile or non-volatile, - Vaseline oil, polyolefins and in particular polydecenes, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, such as Parléam® oil marketed by NOF Corporation (INCI name: Hydrogenated). Polyisobutene). Among the mineral oils mentioned above, use is preferably made of: - mixtures of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum, - paraffin oil, volatile or nonvolatile, and - Vaseline oil, and - polyolefins and in particular polydecenes.

By "polydecenes" is meant all compounds of formula C1on1-1 (20n) +2 with n varying from 3 to 9, corresponding to the name "polydecene" of the CTFA Dictionary 7th edition 1997 of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, USA, as well as the same INCI name in the USA and Europe. They are hydrogenation products of poly-1-decenes. Among these compounds, the following are more particularly chosen according to the invention for which, in the formula, n varies from 3 to 7. By way of example, and preferably, the product sold under the name SILKFLO® 366 NF may be mentioned. POLYDECENE by the company AMOCO CHEMICAL, those sold under the name NEXBASE® 2002 FG, 2004 FG, 2006 FG and 2008 FG by the company FORTUM. The preferred mineral oil is Vaseline oil. The mineral oil (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the final composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more esters of fatty alcohol and / or of fatty acid and preferably of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol and more particularly saturated fatty acid and saturated mono-fatty alcohol. .

By fatty alcohol or fatty acid are meant compounds comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 50 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid esters may be liquid or solid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa). As liquid fatty esters mention may be made of myristate and isopropyl palmitate.

Preferably, the fatty esters of the invention are solid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa). The fatty esters used in the composition of the invention are preferably saturated fatty acid esters, that is, esters of saturated carboxylic acids having at least 10 carbon atoms, and saturated fatty monoalcohols having at least 10 carbon atoms. Saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched. The saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be optionally hydroxylated. The saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid esters are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, cetyl and stearyl myristyl stearates. , behenyl behenate and mixtures thereof. The ester (s) of fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 4% to % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants which may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants. The nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116- 178). They are chosen in particular from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alkyl (C 1 -C 20) phenols, the fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging in particular from 1 to 150 and the number of glycerol groups that can range in particular from 1 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide condensates and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the esters of fatty acids and of ethoxylated sorbitan having 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, polyethoxylated vegetable oils preferably having from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units; ethylene oxide, N- (C₁-C alkyl alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C₁-C₁ alkyl alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C₁-C₁ ac-acyl) -aminopropylmorpholine oxides. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1,4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP®. by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and their mixtures. Preferably, the surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols. The surfactant (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fixing polymers.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fixing polymer" is intended to mean any polymer which, by application to the hair, is capable of conferring a shape on the hair or of allowing a shape already acquired to be maintained. The fixing polymer (s) used are chosen from ionic fixing polymers, in particular anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. As anionic polymers, mention may be made of polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5,000,000. The carboxylic groups are provided by monoacid monomers or unsaturated dicarboxylic acids such as those having the formula: wherein n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or carboxyl, R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a group -Cl-12-000H, phenyl or benzyl. In the formula (I) above, the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular designate the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic or sulphonic groups are: A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and acrylamide. B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, optionally hydroxylated esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated as described in particular in US Pat. Luxembourg Patent Applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate, methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular AMERHOLD DR 25 marketed by AMERCHOL the methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, especially in aqueous dispersion, such as LUVIFLEX SOFT and LUVIMER MAE marketed by BASF, and copolymers based on hydroxyesters such as ACUDYNE 180 from the company ROHM and HAAS ,. As another anionic fixing polymer of this family, mention may also be made of the anionic block polymer branched butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company LUBRIZOL (INCI name AMP-ACYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE Copolymer). C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid; , linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted and crosslinked, or a vinyl ester, allyl or methallylique of an α or 3-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products in this class are resins 28-29. -30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH. Mention may also be made, as copolymer derived from crotonic acid, of crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate terpolymers and in particular MEXOMERE PVV supplied by CHIMEX. D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers can be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB 839,805, and in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the company ISP. Polymers also falling into this class are copolymers of maleic anhydride, citraconic anhydride, itaconic anhydride and an allylic or methallyl ester optionally containing an acrylamide, methacrylamide, an α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid group. or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are for example described in French patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant. E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups.

F) polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic, acrylamido-alkylsulphonic, sulfoisophthalate units. These polymers may be chosen in particular from: polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular weight of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; the salts of polystyrenesulfonic acid, the sodium salts, having a molecular mass of approximately 500,000 and of approximately 100,000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719; polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631; G) grafted anionic silicone polymers; The grafted silicone polymers used are preferably chosen from polymers having a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers and mixtures thereof.

H) Anionic polyurethanes, which may comprise silicone grafts and silicones with hydrocarbon grafts. As examples of fixing polyurethane, there may be mentioned in particular the copolymer dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdio ls (also known under the name of polyurethane-1, INCI designation) sold under the trademark Luviset® PUR by the company BASF, the dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols / silicone diamine copolymer (also known as polyurethane-6, INCI designation) sold under the trademark Luviset® Si PUR A by the company BASF.

As another anionic polyurethane, it is also possible to use AVALURE UR 450. It is also possible to use polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the AQ55 and AQ48 polymers marketed by EASTMAN. According to the invention, the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG® by the company BASF, the methacrylic acid copolymers / ethyl acrylate, especially in aqueous dispersion, such as LUVIFLEX SOFT and LUVIMER MAE marketed by BASF. Copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name GANTREZ® ES 425 by ISP, LUVISET SI PUR, MEXOMERE PW, anionic polyurethanes elastomers or not, polymers with sulphoisophthalate groups The cationic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers having primary, secondary amine groups, t ertiaires and / or quaternaires part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a molecular weight between 500 and about 5 000 000 and preferably between 1 000 and 3 000 000. Among these polymers, mention may be made of more particularly the following cationic polymers: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formula: ## STR2 ## R3i I (A) R3i I R6 or R3i (C) - ## STR1 ## Wherein R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; R4 N R5 R4 N R5 R6 [X] A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; R1 and R2, identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups. groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name H ERCOFLOCO by the HERCULES company, the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Cl BA GEIGY, the acrylamide copolymer and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT®" by the company ISP as per example "GAFQUAT® 734" or "GAFQUAT® 755" or products referred to as "COPOLYMER® 845, 958 and 93 7 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Pat. Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the polymers with a fatty chain and with a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the name Stylèze W20 and Stylèze W10 by ISP, and terpolymers. dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, and the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT® HS 100" by the company ISP company. (2) cationic, preferably quaternary ammonium guar gums such as those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by MEYHALL. (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or their salts; the salts which can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidone carboxylate. Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN BRUT STANDARD by the company ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the pyrrolidone carboxylate of chitosan marketed under the name KYTAMER® PC by the AMERCHOL company. (5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl grafted cellulose, in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and 35 "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch. The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-dicarboxylic-containing polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups. The amphoteric polymers as defined above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: 1) the polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloro acrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl-methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride. 2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group; b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituent esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide and N-octylacrylamide. . N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphosphor® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. 3) partially or completely crosslinked and partially alkylated polyamino amides derived from polyaminoamides of the general formula: ## STR3 ## in which R 4 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond, and an ester of an alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a primary bis or bis secondary amine, and Z denotes a group of a bis-primary, mono or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the NH-E (CH 2) x -NH group where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (III) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine / \ -N N-c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH 2) 6 -NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and alkyls by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or of their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, ethylenically double-bonded acids such as for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butanesultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. 4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula: ## STR2 ## in which R5 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z each represents an integer of 1 to 3, R6 and R7 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R8 and R9 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum carbon atoms in R10 and R11 do not exceed 10. Polymers comprising such units may also include units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or acrylates or methacrylates thereof. alkyl, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate. 5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: ## STR1 ## in which: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## Wherein the unit (V) is present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (VI) in proportions of between 5 and 10% by weight. and 50% and the unit (VII) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit F, R10 represents a group of formula: ## STR2 ## wherein = 0, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, one of which is ns R17, R18 and R19 groups being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 11, R 12 and R 13 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. 6) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan. 7) The polymers of units corresponding to the general formula (IX) described, for example, in French Patent 1,400,366: R 14 (CH 2 CH 2) CH CH COOH CO NR 15 y -R 17 R 16 (IX) in which R 14 represents an atom hydrogen, CH 3 O, CH 3 CH 2 O, phenyl, R 15 denotes hydrogen or a C 1-4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, R 16 denotes hydrogen or a C 1-4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, R 17 denotes a group C1-C4 alkyl such as methyl and ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R18-N (R16) 2, R18 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, R16 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologues of these groups and containing up to 6 carbon atoms. 8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX- type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- (X) where D denotes a group -N and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the chain main unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, and may further include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (XI) where D denotes a group / \ -N N- and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and having a or a plurality of nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an optionally interrupted alkyl chain by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or chloroacetate of soda. 9) alkyl (C 1 -C 5) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with a N, N-dialkanolamine These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in the aerosol device according to the invention may be chosen from branched block copolymers, comprising: (a) nonionic units derived from at least one monomer selected from (C1-C20) alkyl (meth) acrylates, N-mono- (C2-C12) alkyl (meth) acrylamides and N, N-di (C2-C12) alkyl- ( meth) acrylamide, (b) anionic units derived from at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and (c) polyfunctional units derived from at least one monomer having at least two unsaturated functional groups polymerizable, and preferably having a structure consisting of hydrophobic blocks on which are fixed, via the polyfunctional units (c), several more hydrophilic blocks.

Preferably, the amphoteric polymers have at least two glass transition temperatures (Tg) of which at least one is greater than 20 ° C and the other is less than 20 ° C. The preferred amphoteric polymers are polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group; b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl. Mention may be made in particular of the polymers sold under the name AMPHOMER by the company National Starch. The nonionic fixing polymers which may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate, vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT® NE D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by HOECHST under the name APPRETAN® N9212, copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and (meth) alkyl acrylates 1a, such as the products provided under the name CJ 0601B by the company ROHM & HAAS, - homopolymers of styrene, - styrene copolymers, for example styrene and alkyl (meth) acrylate copolymers, such as MOWILITH® LDM 6911, MOWILITH® 35 DM 611 and MOWILITH® LDM 6070 products offered by the company HOECHST, the RHODOPAS® SD 215 and RHODOPAS® DS 910 products offered by the company RHONE POULENC, the copolymers of styrene, methacrylate alkyl and alkyl acrylate, copolymers of styrene and butadiene, or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine, polyamides, vinyllactam homopolymers, such as homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name LuviskoI® PLUS by the company BASF, copolymers of vinyllactam, such as a poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VP C 55K65W by BASF, poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF, and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, the one marketed under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by BASF, and polyvinyl alcohol. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fixing polymer is a nonionic or cationic fixing polymer. Even more preferably, the fixing polymer is a nonionic fixing polymer. The fixing polymers may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 25%, preferably from 0.7 to 20%, more preferably from 1 to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . Preferably, the composition comprises water, preferably at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content preferably ranges from 5 to 98%, preferably from 10 to 95%, more preferably from 20 to 80%, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also comprise one or more water-soluble liquid organic solvents preferably chosen from monoalcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol; polyol ethers; and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may comprise a propellant. For example, mention may be made of liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, 1,1-difluoroethane, or C3-5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane, or compressed gases. like air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and their mixtures. Preferably, the C 3 -C 5 alkanes and in particular propane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof, will be used. When it comprises, the composition comprises propellant (s) in an amount ranging from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 4 to 40% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives different from the compounds of the invention chosen from non-silicone conditioning agents, silicones, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, pearlescent and opacifying agents, dyes, sequestering agents, thickening agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, basifying agents, neutralizing agents, antioxidants, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, hydroxy acids, penetrating agents, perfumes, preservatives and fillers and solid particles such as, for example, inorganic and organic pigments, colored or unstained.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. . The composition according to the invention may be present inter alia in the form of more or less thickened liquids, gels, serums, creams, pastes, sprays or foams. In particular the composition of the invention can be applied from an aerosol device. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of gels, creams or pastes, preferably in the form of cream. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for the cosmetic treatment of the hair. In particular, the composition may be used for styling the hair, for example for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle.

The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, for example a method of shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle, which consists in applying to the hair an effective quantity of a composition according to the invention such that described above, then to perform a possible rinsing after a possible exposure time. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed. The process of the invention can be carried out at room temperature (25 ° C) or under heat at a temperature ranging from 40 to 230 ° C using any heating device: helmet, hair dryer, iron.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following example which is presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention.

EXAMPLE Two styling creams were made with the ingredients indicated in percentage by weight as product in the state in the table below: Chemical Name AB Petrolatum Oil (1) 2 2.5 Hydrocarbon Mineral Wax (1) C20 / C60) (2) 13.5 Vinylpyrrolidone / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer in water at 20% (3) 6 - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (60/40) 6 8 in aqueous solution (50) %) Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2E) (4) 4 4 Triethanolamine (99%) 1,2 1,2 Myristyl / palmitate / stearic acid myristyl / cetyl / stearyl myristate / palmitate (5) Ethylene diamine tetracetic acid, disodium salt, 2 0.1 0.1 H2O Octane-1,2 diol 1 1 Vegetable fatty acids (stearic acid 53% - palmitic acid - myristic acid) (6) 3 3 Poly dimethylsiloxane (viscosity 5 Cst) 4 7, Microcrystalline wax (m.p. 74-79 ° C) (7) 10 8.5 Carboxyvinyl polymer (8) 0.2 0.2 Oleth-30 (9) 6 6 Fragrance 0.6 0.6 Preservative 1 1 Water Q SP 100 QSP 100 CI) BLANDOL marketed by SONNEBORN (2) OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P marketed by STRAHL & PITSCH (3) COPOLYMER 845-0 marketed by Ashland (4) BRIJ S2-SO- (SG) marketed by CRODA (5) CRODAMOL MS-PA- (MH) marketed by CRODA (6) PALMERA B1802CG sold by KLK OLEO (7) WHITE MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX SP-18 marketed by STRAHL & PITSCH (8) SYNTHALEN K marketed by the company 3V (9) EUMULGIN 030 marketed by the company COGNIS Creams A and B were applied to dry hair. The creams obtained are easy to take and spread in the hands. They can easily be transferred from the hands to the hair and are easy to spread over the hair. The creams are not sticky but allow to shape the hairstyle. In addition, the hairstyle is quick to get in shape. We obtain a hairstyle with a natural rendering. The hair does not form packets. We obtain a good hold of the hairstyle, durable, and which is also easy to recoiffer.20

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least one mineral wax, (ii) at least one fatty acid, (iii) at least one mineral oil, (iv) at least one surfactant (v) at least one fatty acid ester and and / or fatty alcohol and (vi) at least one fixing polymer. 2. - Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the one or more mineral waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite. 3. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral wax or waxes are present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 5 to 40%, more preferably from 10 to 35%, better still from 12 to 30% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid or acids are chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. 5. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the fatty acid or acids are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 7%, better from 1 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil or the mineral oils are chosen from mixtures of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum, paraffin oil, volatile or non-volatile, petroleum jelly, polyolefins and in particular polydecenes, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, and is preferably petrolatum oil. 7. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil or the mineral oils are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the final composition. 8. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from nonionic surfactants. 9. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant or surfactants are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester (s) and / or fatty alcohol ester (s) are solid at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa). 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester (s) and / or fatty alcohol (s) are chosen from saturated fatty acid and saturated mono-fatty alcohol esters. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol are selected from myristyl myristates, cetyl and stearyl, myristyl palmitates, cetyl and stearyl, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates, behenyl behenate and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of fatty acid ester and / or fatty alcohol ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight. weight and more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing polymer (s) are chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric fixing polymers, preferably from nonionic and cationic fixing polymers, preferably from nonionic fixing polymers. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fixing polymer or polymers are present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 25%, preferably from 0.7 to 20%, more preferably from 1 to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises water, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 98%, preferably from 10 to 95%, better still from 20 to 80%, and better still from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 17. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said fibers an effective quantity of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 16. 18. - Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for the hair treatment, in particular for the treatment of keratinous fibers and in particular for maintaining / shaping the hair. 10