MX2007015655A - A product release system for atomizing cosmetic hair compositions containing cationic polymers. - Google Patents

Abstract

A product release system for atomizing cosmetic hair compositions is described, which has (a) pressure-resistant packaging, (b) a capillary-containing spray head, and (c) a propellant-containing cosmetic composition, which contains at least one film-forming, hair-setting, or hair-conditioning cationic polymer. The atomization is done using the capillary. The capillary preferably has a diameter of 0.00394 (0.1) to 0.03937 in (1 mm) and a length of 0.1968 (5) to 3.937 in (100 mm). The spray rate is preferably 0.00035 (0.01) to 0.176 oz/s (5 g/s). The composition can particularly be a gel, wax, or emulsion.

Description

A PRODUCT RELEASE SYSTEM FOR PULVER-Z-i COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR HAIR CONTAINING POLYMERS CATIÓNICOS FIELD OF THE INVENCIOM The object of the present invention is a product release system for spraying cosmetic compositions, having a pressure resistant package, a spray head containing capillaries and a cosmetic composition containing a propellant and wherein the composition contains at least a cationic film-forming polymer, fixative or hair conditioner. Accordingly, the object of the invention is also a corresponding method for treating hair.

BACKGROUND Many cosmetic products for hair contain cationic polymers as fixative ingredients or hair conditioners. In the form of foams, the cationic polymers provide the hair with good combing properties after application on wet hair and produce a good hold with a good hold on dry hair. In shampoos, permanent wave solutions, fixatives and hair coloration, cationic polymers are used to provide good combing properties on wet hair and good fixing properties on dry hair. They provide stability to the hairstyle and increase the volume of the hair when it is dry. However, cationic polymers have not been widely used until now in high viscosity products such as gels, waxes, hairdressing creams, or treatments, because the composition, as well as the consistency of the product and the resulting difficult application, made that the advantages of cationic polymers could not be achieved entirely on the hair. A process for spraying liquids is provided in Patent No. WO 03/051523 A1, with which the spray is formed using a capillary. Only the application with respect to the spraying of liquid compositions is described. A device for spraying liquids is provided in Patent No. WO 03/051522 A2, with which the spray is formed using a capillary. Only the use of liquid compositions for spraying, which can also be highly viscous, is described, where, however, 5000 mPa.s is mentioned as the maximum viscosity that can be sprayed. There is a need for products that provide the advantageous hair setting and conditioning properties of cationic polymers, even in application forms such as hair waxes, styling gels, hairdressing creams, or cream treatments and that combine the advantageous properties with these forms of application. The aim of the invention, in particular, was to improve the ease of distribution on the hair, the volume effect, the fixation effect or the styling stability, the combing properties, the gloss of the hair or the supporting properties of the hair. conventional compositions for hair treatment, which were previously not available as a spray, or hair treated with such a composition.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The object of the invention is a product release system for spraying cosmetic compositions. The product release system has the following characteristics: (a) a pressure resistant package, (b) a spray head containing a capillary and (c) a cosmetic composition containing a propellant, where the spray is made using the capillary and the composition contains at least one cationic film-forming polymer, fixative or hair conditioner.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION The term "spray" means the release of the product in the form of dissipated particles. The dissipated particles can have different shapes, consistencies and sizes. The properties of the pulverized particles can include from a fine mist sprayed with spray to liquid drops, snow drops, solid dew flakes and spray foam. The amounts of the ingredients (eg,% by weight) indicated below are based on the basic composition without propellant, unless explicitly stated otherwise. The propellant amounts are based on the total composition, including the propellant. The composition is preferably not liquid at 25 ° C or has a viscosity greater than 5000 mPa.s (measured with a HAAKE VT-550 rheometer, a SV-DIN measuring member at a temperature of 25 ° C and a speed of shear of 12.9 s'1). The properties of the compositions to be used according to the invention that are related to the consistency are based on the base composition without propellant (unless explicitly stated otherwise). The non-liquid compositions, in terms of the invention, are particularly compositions without flowability, which can be determined, for example, due to the fact that they do not flow through a glass surface inclined at 45 ° at a temperature of 25 ° C. . The gel compositions are characterized in that the memory module G 'is larger than the loss module G "at 25 ° C, with oscillographic measurements within the typical measurement range (0.01 to 40 Hz). use is preferably greater than 5000 to 100,000, and especially, preferably, 10,000 to 50,000 mPa.s, or very especially, preferably, 25,000 to 35,000 mPa.s, measured with a HAAKE VT-550 rheometer, a member of SV-DIN measurement at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of 12.9 s "1. Aerosol cans made of metal or plastic can be used as a pressure resistant container. The preferred metals are tin and aluminum plates, while the preferred plastic is polyethylene terephthalate. Suitable spray systems with spray heads containing capillaries, with which the spray is formed using a capillary, are described in WO 03/051523 A1 and WO 03/051522 A2. The capillaries preferably have a diameter of 0J to 1 mm, or especially 0.2 to 0.6 mm and a length which is preferably 5 to 100 mm, or especially 5 to 50 mm. The sprinkler principle is also described in Aerosol Europe, vol. 13, no. 1-2005, pages 6-11. The sprinkler system is based on the principle of capillary spraying. The conventional whirlpool nozzle and, if necessary, the collection tube, are replaced by capillaries. The high energy consumption and intense use of swirl propellant from the contents of the can, as well as the strong dilution of the required product with solvents, are not necessary, in comparison with conventional sprinkler systems. Even if a small amount of propellant is used, the product rises up the capillary wall of the collection tube and is propelled, after the valve in the capillary (wider) of the spray head, in the direction of the outlet opening. In this way, small droplets from the propellant stream are ejected from the liquid surface and continue to flow as an aerosol. Since there is no whirlpool chamber to inhibit the flow of the product, nor a spray nozzle, the energy of the system can be used much more efficiently to create the desired spray. The spray speed can be adjusted through the selection of the capillary geometry, in conjunction with the internal pressure created by the propellant or a propellant mixture. The preferred spray ratios are from 0.01058 to 0.5 g / s, especially from OJ to 0.3 g / s. The size of the spray droplets created with the spray can be adjusted through the selection of the capillary geometry, together with the internal pressure or the viscosity of the composition. Suitable capillary spray systems can be obtained in a product called TRUSPRAY®, from Boehringer Ingelheim microParts GmbH. The preferred droplet size distributions are those in which the value dv (50) is a maximum of 100 μm, for example, from 50 to 100 μm, wherein a maximum of 90 μm, for example, from 70 to 90 μm, or those in which the value dv (90) is a maximum of 160 μm, for example, is especially preferred. , from 90 to 160 μm, wherein a maximum 150 μm, for example, from 115 to 150 μm is especially preferred. The values dv (50) or dv (90) provide the maximum diameter that have 50% or 90% of all the droplets. The distribution of the droplet size can, for example, be determined with the aid of a particle measurement unit, as a function of the laser diffraction, for example, a Malvern device for measuring the particle size. Also preferred are compositions that form a snow-like consistency, flakes or foam (spray foam) upon exiting the capillary spray system. The propellant to be used can be selected from low alkanes, particularly C3 to C5 hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, i-butane and propane, or also mixtures of these; as well as dimethyl ethers or fluorine hydrocarbons, such as F 152a (1, 1 -dif luoroethane) or F 134 (tetraf luoroethane); as well as other gaseous propellants present at the pressures considered, such as N2, N2O and CO2; as well as mixtures of the aforementioned propellants. The propellant is preferably selected from propane, n-butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, fluorinated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. In addition, the propellant content is preferably 15 to 85% by weight, with 25 to 75% by weight as the especially preferred content. The composition contains cosmetically acceptable solvents, preferably an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic medium. Low alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be included as alcohols, particularly those used, generally, for cosmetic purposes. The composition can have a pH range of 2.0 to 9.5. Particularly, a pH range of 4 to 8 is preferred, as long as some form of special application does not require other pH values. As additional cosolvents, it may have organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point lower than 400 ° C in an amount of OJ to 15% by weight or preferably 1 to 10% by weight. Branched or unbranched hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, hexane, isopentane, and cyclic hydrocarbons, such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional cosolvents. These volatile hydrocarbons can also be used as propellants. Other especially preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight. The product release system according to the invention can be used for hair treatment. The compositions can be hair care agents, such as, for example, hair repair products or hair rinses, which, for example, can be applied as products to be used and not rinsed or rinsed off; agents for temporarily remodeling or stabilizing the hairstyle (styling agent), for example, hair sprays, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, styling creams, etc .; permanent, semi-permanent or temporary hair dyes, for example, oxidative dyes for the hair, or non-oxidative dyeing agents for hair, or hair bleaching agents; permanent restructuring agents for the hair, for example, in the form of acidic or soft alkaline permanent waves or hair straightening agents containing a reducing agent, or in the form of permanent wave fixing agents containing an oxidizing agent. The cationic polymers are contained in the composition to be used according to the present invention in an amount which is preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight or from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and from 0J to 5% by weight as particularly preferred. The polymers can be synthetic or natural. Polymers are fixing or conditioning hair polymers that preferably also form a film.

It is understood that natural polymers also include chemically modified polymers of natural origin. Hair fixing polymers are understood to be those capable of exhibiting a fixing effect on the hair or a stabilizing effect on the hairstyle, when they are used in an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous solution or dispersion of 0.01 to 5%, for example. . those that increase the retention of curls with respect to a water wave, especially those for which the "Hair Fixers" function is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10.a edition, 2004. Hair conditioning polymers are understood as those capable of exhibiting hair conditioning or a conditioning effect on hair when used in an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution or dispersion of 0.01 to 5%, e.g. those that improve the ability to comb or increase the brightness, especially those for which the function "Hair conditioning agents" is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004. It is understood by film-forming polymers those capable of depositing a polymeric film on the hair after drying when used in an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution or dispersion of 0.01 to 5%, especially those for which the function of "Film Formers" is indicated. in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004. Polymers can also simultaneously have two or three of the properties known as "film former", "hair fixer" and "hair conditioner". The cationic polymers are polymers with cationic groups or with amine groups, especially primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine groups. The cationic charge density will preferably be from 1 to 7 meq / g. Suitable synthetic cationic polymers are homo- or copolymers consisting of at least one of the following monomers: dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium, dialkyl diallyl of ammonium and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers with cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogens. Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amino groups. The cationic polymers can be homo or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained in the polymer chain or, preferably, as substituents in one or more monomers. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated compounds which can be radically polymerized, which have at least one cationic group, especially vinyl substituted ammonium monomers, for example, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkyl ammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic nitrogen-containing groups cationic, such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example, alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, for example, C1 to C7 alkyl groups and, especially preferred, C1 to C3 alkyl groups. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are, preferably, C1 to C7 alkyl groups and, especially preferred, the C1 to C3 alkyl groups. Polymers with suitable quaternary amino groups are, for example, those described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary with the designations polyquaternium, such as copolymer of methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone (polyquatemium-16) or copolymer of quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (polyquatemium-11) and also quaternary silicone polymers or silicone oligomers, such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quatemium-80). Preferred synthetic cationic polymers: poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride); copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; quaternary ammonium polymers formed by the reaction of diethylsulfate with a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, especially copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone methosulphate / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, Gafquat® 755 N, Gafquat® 734); quaternary ammonium polymers of methyl vinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone (for example, LUVIQUAT® HM 550); polyquaternium-35; polyquaternium-57; polymers of trimethylammoniomethyl methacrylate chloride; terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide (for example, Merquat® Plus 3300); copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and methacryloylaminopropylauryldimethylammonium chloride; terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinyl caprolactam (for example, Gaffix® VC 713); propyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide (for example, Gafquat® HS 100); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide; poly or oligoesters formed by at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from hydroxy acids substituted by at least one quaternary ammonium group; dimethylpolysiloxane substituted with quaternary ammonium groups in terminal positions. Suitable cationic polymers which are derived from natural polymers are, in particular, the cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, starch or guar. Moreover, chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. The cationic polysaccharides are represented, for example, by the general formula: G-O-B-N + RaRbRc X " G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example, anhydroglucose starch or cellulose; B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene; Ra, Rb and Rc, independently of each other, are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl, any of which may have up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total amount of carbon atoms in Ra, R and Rc it is, preferably, a maximum of 20; X is a conventional counter-anion, for example, a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. The cationic celluloses are, for example, those with the INCI designations polyquatemium-4, polyquatemium-10 or polyquaternium-24.

A cationic guar derivative has, for example, the designation INCI guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Preferred cationically active substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives. The chitosans that can be used according to the invention can be the fully or partially deacetylated chitins.

By way of example, the molecular weight can be distributed over a wide range, from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol, for example, from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol.

However, the molecular weight will preferably be found above 100,000 g / mol, and it is especially preferred from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably from 10 to 99%, and especially, preferably, from 60 to 99%. A preferred chitosan salt is the pyrrolidone chitoside carboxylate, for example, Kytamer® PC, with a molecular weight of about 200,000 a 300,000 g / mol and a deacetylation degree of 70 to 85%. Chitosan derivatives that may be considered include the quaternized alkylated hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan. Chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably present in their neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization will preferably be at least 50%, and especially, preferably, between 70 and 100%, calculated based on the number of free basic groups. For the neutralizing agent, any cosmetically compatible organic or inorganic acid may be used in principle, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, among which is preferred, especially , pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid. Preferred cationic polymers derived from natural sources: cationic cellulose derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose cellulose and trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide; Chitosan and its salts; hydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts; alkylhydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts; alkyl ethers of N-hydroxyalkyl chitosan. In one embodiment, the composition used according to the invention is a gel and contains at least one thickener or gel former, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, or 0J to 10% by weight, or from 0.5 to 8% by weight or especially, preferably, from 1 to 5% by weight. The materials for which the function of "Viscosity Increasing Agent" is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004, are particularly useful adequate. The thickener or gel former is preferably a thickening polymer and is preferably selected, in particular, from copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least a second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; crosslinked polyacrylic acid; cross-linked copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid with C10 to C30 alcohols; copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of itaconic acid with ethoxylated fatty alcohol; copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated alcohol of C10 to C30, and a third type of monomer, which is selected from C1 to C4 aminoalkyl acrylates; copolymers consisting of two or more monomers, which are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers consisting of vinyl pyrrolidone and ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate; copolymers consisting of ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate and monomers selected from esters of methacrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohols; hydroxyethylcellulose; hydroxypropylcellulose; hydroxypropyl guar; glyceryl polyacrylate; glyceryl polymethacrylate; copolymers consisting of at least one C2, C3 or C4 styrene and alkylene; polyurethane; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; polyacrylamide; copolymers crosslinked with decadiene, consisting of maleic anhydride and methylvinyl ether; locust bean gum; guar gum; xantana; dehydroxantana; carrageenan; karaya gum; hydrolyzed corn starch; copolymers consisting of polyethylene oxide, fatty alcohols and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate (for example, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer). In a further embodiment, the composition is waxy and contains at least one wax which is solid at 25 ° C in an amount, preferably 10 to 80% by weight, particularly 20 to 60% by weight, or 25 to 50% by weight, as well as, if necessary, other insoluble materials in water that are liquid at room temperature. The waxy consistency is characterized, preferably, because the needle penetration number (unit of measurement 0J mm, test weight 100 g, test time 5 s, test temperature 25 ° C; in accordance with DIN 51 579), preferably, it varies from 2 to 70, or especially from 3 to 40 or that the composition can melt and has a solidification point that is greater than 25 ° C, or is, preferably, in the range of 30 ° C to 70 ° C, or especially, preferably, in the range of 40 ° C to 55 ° C. Primarily, any wax previously known in the industry can be used as wax or waxy material. These waxes include animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, petrolatum, petrolatum, ozokerite, mountain waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes (for example, polybutene, beeswax) , wool wax) and its derivatives, such as wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, olive wax, carnauba wax, wax Japan, apple wax, hydrogenated fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides with a solidification point greater than 40 ° C, silicone waxes or hydrophilic waxes, such as high molecular weight polyethylene glycol waxes with a molecular weight of 800 to 20,000, preferably, from 2000 to 10,000 g / mol. Waxes or waxy materials have a solidification point greater than 25 ° C or, preferably, greater than 40 ° C or 55 ° C. The number of penetration of the needle (0.1 mm), 100 g, 5 s, 25 ° C; in accordance with DIN 51 579), preferably, it is in the range of 2 to 70, or especially 3 to 40. In another embodiment, the composition is of the emulsion type, wherein the consistency is preferably creamy. The emulsion may be a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion or a higher emulsion.

In addition to water, preferably, it contains at least one liquid hydrophobic oil at an ambient temperature of 25 ° C, as well as at least one emulsifier. The oil content is preferably 1 to 20% by weight or, particularly, 2 to 10% by weight. The emulsifier content is preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight or, particularly, from 0J to 20% by weight, or from 0.5 to 10% by weight. Suitable liquid, hydrophobic oils have a melting temperature of less than 25 ° C and a boiling point, preferably, greater than 250 ° C, or especially higher than 300 ° C. Volatile oils can also be used. In principle, any oil generally known to those experienced in the industry can be used. Suitable oils are vegetable or animal oils, mineral oils (liquid paraffin), silicone oils or their mixtures. The oils of hydrocarbons, for ex. Paraffin or isoparaffin oils, squalene, fatty acid oils and polyols, especially triglycerides, are suitable. Suitable vegetable oils are, for example, sunflower oil, coconut oil, castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, soybean oil. Suitable emulsifiers may include nonionic, anionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants. Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid glycerides, or alkylphenols, especially additional products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to fatty alcohols. from C8 to C22, to C12 to C22 fatty acids, or to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the mono alkyl group and fatty acid diesters of C12 to C22 of additional products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol additional products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil sugar esters of fatty acids, especially sucrose esters and one or two fatty acids of C8 to C22, INCI: sucrose cocoate, dilaurate sucrose, sucrose distearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate; esters of sorbitan and one, two or three fatty acids of C8 to C22 and a degree of ethoxylation of 4 to 20 - polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, especially of one, two or more fatty acids of C8 to C22 and polyglycerol, preferably of 2 to 20 glyceryl units alkylglucosides, alkyl oligoglucosides and alkyl polyglucoside with C8 to C22 alkyl groups, eg. decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside. Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, the salts and esters of carboxylic acids, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulphates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulphonic acids and their salts (for example, sulfosuccinates or fatty acid isethionates), phosphoric acid esters and its salts, acylamino acids and their salts. A full description of these anionic surfactants is provided in the publication "FIEDLER - Lexikon der Hilfsstoffe" [FIEDLER - Dictionary of Adjuvants], volume 1, fifth edition (2002), pages 97 to 102, to which express reference is made. Preferred surfactants are mono, di or triesters of phosphoric acid with addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to C8 to C22 fatty alcohols. Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, aliphatic quaternary ammonium derivatives, phosphonium and sulfonium compounds with the formula (R1) wherein R1 represents a straight or branched chain alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms and from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide units and from 0 to 1 glycerol units; And it is a group that contains N, P or S; R2 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group with 1 to 3 carbon atoms; the total of x + y is equal to 2 if Y is a sulfur atom and the total of x + y is equal to 3 if Y is a nitrogen atom or a phosphorus atom; R3 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Z (-) represents a carboxylate, sulfate, phosphonate or phosphate group. Other amphoteric surfactants, such as betaines, are also suitable. Examples of betaines include C8 to C18 alkylbetaines, such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl-alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine and lauryl-bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) -alpha-carboxyethylbetaine; C8 to C18 sulfobetaines, such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, lauryl-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine; carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, C8 to C18 alkyldimethyl ammonium acetate, C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts, as well as fatty acid of C8 to C18 alkylamidobetaines such as, for example, coconut fatty acid amidopropylbetaine and N-coconut fatty acid -N- [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl] glycerol (CTFA name: cocoanfocarboxiglycinate). Suitable cationic surfactants contain amino groups or quaternized hydrophilic ammonium groups that bear a positive charge in solution and can be represented by the general formula N (+) R1 R2R3R4? (-, where R1 to R4, independently of each other, are aliphatic groups, aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups, or alkaryl groups of 1 to 22 C atoms, wherein at least one radical has at least one less 6, preferably at least 8, C atoms and X "represents an anion, for example a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, or alkylsulfate, but preferably a chloride.In addition to the carbon atoms and the carbon atoms, hydrogen, the aliphatic groups may also comprise cross-linked compounds or other groups, for example, additional amino groups Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromide, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyl salts lpyridinium, for example, lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, as well as compounds of cationic nature, such as amine oxides, for example, alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Especially preferred are C 8-22 alkyldimethylbenzylammonium compounds, C 8-22 alkyltrimethylammonium compounds, especially cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, C 8-22 alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium compounds, di- (alkyl) -dimethylammonium compounds of C 8-22, alkylpyridinium salts of C8-22, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulphates of C8-22, alkylmethylamine oxides of C8-22 and alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides of C8-22.

The cosmetic composition to be used in accordance with the present invention may also comprise at least one active cosmetic active ingredient or an additional hair or skin / scalp additive. This active ingredient or additive can, for example, be selected from hair conditioning materials, hair fixative materials, silicone compounds, sunscreens, preservatives, pigments, direct penetration hair dyes, particle-shaped materials, oxidizing agents., reducing agents and hair coloring oxidant precursor products. The active ingredients and additives, according to the type of intended use, are present, preferably, in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, or particularly, of 0.05 to 10, or of 0J to 5% by weight. In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, such as a hair conditioner or an additive for fixing hair, contains at least one polymer with anionic groups or groups that can be anionized, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, or from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and from 0J to 5% by weight as particularly preferred. It is understood that the anionizable groups are acidic groups, for example, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid groups, which can be deprotonated by the typical bases, such as organic amines or alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides. The anionic polymers can be neutralized partially or completely with an alkaline neutralizing agent. Preferred are those types of agents in which the acidic groups are neutralized in the polymer from 50 to 100% or, especially, preferably from 70 to 100%. As the neutralizing agent an organic or inorganic base can be used. Specific examples of bases are amino alkanols, such as aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine, and also ammonia, NaOH and KOH, among others. The anionic polymer can be a homo or copolymer with monomeric units containing an acid group derived from natural or synthetic sources which, if necessary, can be polymerized with comonomers which do not contain acid groups. Among the acid groups that can be considered are the sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid and carboxylic acid groups, among which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred. Suitable monomers containing acid groups are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid and monoesters of maleic anhydride / maleic acid, especially the monoesters of alkyl maleic acid of C1 to C7, as well as the acids aldehydecarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids. Comonomers which are not substituted by acid groups are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine substituted with monomers of vinyl such as, for example, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, with C1 to C-groups alkyl being especially preferred. Polymers with suitable acid groups are, in particular, homopolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, crotonic acid homopolymers and also crotonic acid copolymers with monomers selected from vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylamides and methacrylamides without crosslinking or crosslinking with polyfunctional agents. A suitable natural polymer is, for example, shellac. Polymers with preferred acid groups are: terpolymers of acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate and N-alkyl acrylamide (designation INCI: acrylate / acrylamide copolymer), especially terpolymers of acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide; crosslinked or non-cross linked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers (INCI designation: VA / crotonate copolymer); copolymers of one or more C1 to C5 alkyl acrylates, especially C2 to C4 alkyl acrylates, and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (INCI designation: acrylate copolymer), for example, ter-butyl terpolymers acrylate, ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid; sodium polystyrene sulfonate; vinylacetate / crotonic acid / vinyl alkanoate copolymers, for example, copolymers of vinylacetate, crotonic acid and vinyl propionate; copolymers of vinylacetate, crotonic acid and vinyl neodecanoate (INCI designations: VA / crotonate / vinyl propionate copolymers, VA crotonate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer); copolymers of aminomethylpropanol acrylate; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and, if necessary, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of methylvinyl ether and monoalkyl esters of maleic acid (INCI designations: copolymer PVM / MA of ethyl ester, PVM / MA copolymer of butyl ester); salts of aminomethylpropanol of copolymers of allylmethacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, as well as, if necessary, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; crosslinked copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid; copolymers of vinylacetate, mono-n-butyl maleate and isobomyl acrylate; copolymers of two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and, if necessary, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of octylacrylamide and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, as well as, if necessary, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; polyol esters of diglycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid, wherein the alkyl groups of the aforementioned polymers, as a rule, preferably have 1, 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, such as a hair conditioner or an additive for fixing hair, contains at least one zwitterionic or amphoteric polymer, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, or from 0.05 to 10% by weight, or especially, preferably, from 0J to 5% by weight. The zwitterionic polymers simultaneously have at least one anionic charge and at least one cationic charge. The amphoteric polymers exhibit at least one acidic group (for example, carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group) and at least one alkali group (for example, amino group). The acidic groups can be deprotonated using typical bases, such as organic amines or alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides. Preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers are: copolymers formed by alkyl acrylamide, alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and two or more monomers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and, if necessary, their esters, especially copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (INCI designation: octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer); copolymers, formed by at least one first type of monomer having quaternary amino groups and at least one of a second type of monomer having acid groups; copolymers of fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, as well as, if necessary, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid, especially copolymers of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, ethylamine oxide methacrylate, and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and, if necessary, its esters; copolymers of methacryloyl ethyl betaine and at least one monomer selected from methacrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of acrylic acid, methylacrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: polyquaternium-47); chloride copolymers and acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium acrylates or copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine (INCI designation: polyquaternium-43); oligomers or polymers, which can be produced from quaternary crotonoylbetaines or quaternary crotonoylbetaine esters. In one embodiment, the agent of the present invention contains from 0.01 to 15% by weight or, preferably, from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of at least one non-ionic synthetic or natural film-forming polymer. Suitable synthetic nonionic polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are formed from at least one of the following monomers: vinyl lactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam; vinyl ethers, such as vinylacetate; vinyl alcohol, vinyl formamide, acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkylacrylamides, dialkylacrylamides, alkylmethacrylamides, dialkylmelacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, alkylmethacrylates, alkylmaleimides such as, for example, ethylmaleimide or hydroxyethylmaleimide and alkylene glycols such as, for example, propylene or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl or alkylene group of these monomers are , preferably, C1 to C7 alkyl groups, or especially, preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups. Suitable homopolymers are, for example, those of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic nonionic polymers are, for example, polyacrylamides, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate copolymerides, vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; polyvinyl alcohols, as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers. Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, in particular, those based on saccharide, preferably glucans, for example, cellulose and derivatives thereof. Suitable derivatives are, in particular, those with alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituents, wherein the alkyl groups may have, for example, from 1 to 20 or, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example, the hydroxyalkyl cellulose. Preferred nonionic polymers are: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, isobutylene / ethylmaleimide / hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate. In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, as a hair conditioning additive, contains at least one silicone compound, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by weight, or especially, preferably, of OJ at 5% by weight. The silicone compounds include volatile and non-volatile silicones and silicones that are soluble and insoluble in the agent. One embodiment is a high molecular weight silicone, with a viscosity of 0.001 m / s (1000 cSt) at 2 m2 / s (2,000,000 cSt) at 25 ° C, or preferably, 0.01 m / s (10,000 cSt) at 1.8 m2 / s (1, 800,000 cSt) or from 0J m2 / s (100,000 cSt) to 1.5 m2 / s (1, 500,000 cSt). The silicone compounds include polyalkyl and polyarylsiloxanes, particularly with methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl groups. Polydimethylsiloxanes, polydiethylsiloxanes and polymethylphenylsiloxanes are preferred. Also preferred are arylated silicones that provide gloss, with a refractive index of at least 1.46 or at least 1.52. The silicone compounds include, in particular, the materials with the designations INCI cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, phenyltrimethicone, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, stearyl siloylisilicate, polymethylsilyesquioxane and dimethicone crosslinked polymer. Silicone resins and silicone elastomers are also suitable, where these are highly crosslinked sylloxanes. Preferred silicones are: cyclic dimethylsiloxanes, linear polydimethylsiloxanes, block polymers of polydimethylsiloxane and polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal or side polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide radicals, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups, polydimethylsiloxanes substituted with phenyl , silicone emulsions, silicone elastomers, silicone waxes, silicone rubbers, amino-substituted silicones and silicones substituted with quaternary ammonia groups. In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains a photoprotective material, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, or of OJ to 5% by weight or, especially, preferably, of 0.2 to 2% in weigh. The photoprotective materials include, in particular, all of the photoprotective materials mentioned in Patent No. 1 084 696. The following are preferred: 2-ethylhexyl ester of 4-methoxy cinnamic acid, methyl methoxycinnamate, 5-sulfonic acid of 2-hydroxy -4-methoxybenzophenone and polyethoxylated p-aminobenzoate. In one embodiment, the agent according to the present invention contains from 0.01 to 20, especially, preferably, from 0.05 to 10 or, most especially, preferably, from 0J to 5% by weight of at least one air-conditioning additive. hair, selected from betaine; panthenol; ethyl ether panthenol; sorbitol; protein hydrolysates; vegetable extracts; A-B block copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; block copolymers A-B of alkyl methacrylate and acrylonitrile, block copolymers A-B-A of lactide and ethylene oxide, block copolymers A-B-A of caprolactone and ethylene oxide, ABC block copolymers of alkylene or alkadiene compounds, styrene and alkyl methacrylates, ABC block copolymers of acrylic acid, styrene and alkyl methacrylates, star-block block copolymers, hyperbranched polymers, dendrimers, 3,4-polyethylene dioxythiophenes intrinsically electrical and intrinsically electrical conductive polyanilines. In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 5 or, especially, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, of at least one preservative. Suitable preservatives are those materials listed with the function "Preservatives" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben , isopropylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, iodopropinil butylcarbamate, metildibromoglutaron.tril and hydantoin DMDM. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a hair conditioning agent. Hair conditioning agents are, for example, conditioners, treatments, hair repair products, rinses and the like. The hair conditioning agent contains at least one hair conditioning ingredient selected from the silicone compounds, cationic or amine substituted surfactants and aforementioned cationic or substituted amine polymers. The hair conditioning agent can be used in amounts between 0.01 and 10.0% by weight, or especially between 0.01 and 5.0% by weight, based on the finished product. The hair conditioning agent according to the invention can, after application to dry, wet or wet hair, remain on the hair or be rinsed after an appropriate period of action. The periods of action depend on the type of hair. As a general rule, action periods of between 0.5 and 30 minutes, especially 0.5 and 10 minutes, and preferably between 1 and 5 minutes, can be assumed. In addition to the aforementioned cationic surfactants, other suitable cationic or amino substituted surfactants are those corresponding to the formula R1-NH- (CH2) n-NR2R3 or to the formula R1 -NH- (CH2) n -N + R2R3R4 X ' wherein R1 is an acyl or alkyl residue with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, in which the acyl or alkyl residue may contain one or more OH groups; R2, R3 and R4, pendently of each other, are hydrogen, alkyl or alkoxyalkyl residues with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which may be the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, and may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, X " is an anion, especially a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO3 ', wherein R means saturated or unsaturated residues with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and n means an integer between 1 and 10, preferably 2 to 5. The hair conditioner active compound is preferably a quaternized amidoamine or amidoamine of the aforementioned formulas, wherein R1 is a branched or linear acyl residue, saturated or unsaturated, with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group Preferred are amines or quaternized amines in which at least one of the residues R2, R3 and R4 means a residue according to the general formula CH CH2OR5, wherein R5 denote alkyl residues with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyethyl or H. Suitable amines or amido amines, which may optionally be quaternized, are especially those which are known under the designations of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) ricinoleamidopropyl betaine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethyl lactate, ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, of ricinoleamidopropiltrimonio chloride, methosulfate ricinoleamidopropiltrimonio, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, of cocamidopropiltrimonio chloride, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearilamidopropil dimethylamine, dimethylamine estearilamidopropil, Quatemium-33, methosulfate undecileneamidopropiltrimonio. In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains at least one pigment. The pigments can be colored pigments that give coloring effects to the mass of the product or to the hair, or they can be pigments that improve the shine and give shine effects to the product or to the hair. The effects of color or shine on the hair are preferably temporary, that is, they remain until the next hair wash and can be removed by washing with the usual shampoos. The pigments do not dissolve in the mass of the product and can be found in an amount of 0.01 to 25% by weight and 15 to 5% by weight as particularly preferred. The preferred particle size is from 1 to 200 μm, especially from 3 to 150 μm and especially preferably from 10 to 100 μm. The pigments are colorants practically insoluble in the application medium and can be inorganic or organic. Mixed inorganic and organic pigments are also possible. Inorganic pigments are preferred. The advantage of inorganic pigments is their extraordinary resistance to light, climate and temperature. The inorganic pigments can be of natural origin, for example, made of chalk, ocher, shady, green earth, burnt Sienna, or graphite. The pigments may also be white pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; black pigments, such as, for example, iron oxide black; color pigments, such as, for example, ultramarine or red iron oxide; brightness pigments; pigments with metallic effects; pearlescent pigments; as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments; wherein it is preferred that at least one pigment be colored, not white. Metal oxides, metal hydroxides and metal oxide hydrates, pigments with phase mixture, silicates containing sulfur, metal sulphides are suitable, complex metal cyanides, metal sulphates, metal chromates and metal molybdates, as well as the metals themselves (bronze pigments). Particularly suitable are titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and black iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium and aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, blue pigment 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI77510) and carmine (cochineal). Pearl gloss and color pigments based on mica or faint luster coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride as well as, if necessary, other materials that provide color such as iron oxide, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine, etc. and where the color can be determined by varying the thickness of the layer. These types of pigments are distributed, for example, under the trade names Roña®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® by Merck, Germany. The organic pigments are, for example, natural sepia pigments, yellow gomorresin, bone black, Van Dyke brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments. Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azopigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids and dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene, perinone, metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments. In one embodiment, the agent according to the present invention contains from 0.01 to 10 or, especially, preferably 0.05 and 5% by weight, of at least one material in the form of a particle. Suitable materials are, for example, solid materials and in the form of particles at room temperature (25 ° C). To some extent, silica, silicates, aluminates, alumina, mica, salts, particularly inorganic metal salts, metal oxides, for example, titanium dioxide, minerals and polymer particles, are suitable. The particles are present in the agent in an undissolved form, preferably, constantly dispersed, and can be deposited on the hair in solid form after application to the hair and the solvent has evaporated. A stable dispersion can be obtained by providing the composition with a yield point high enough to inhibit the collapse of the solid particles. A sufficient yield point can be obtained by using suitable gel formers in a suitable amount. Preferred particulate materials are silica (silica gel, silicon dioxide) and metal salts, particularly inorganic metal salts, among which silica is particularly preferred. The metal salts are, for example, alkali or alkaline earth halides, such as sodium chloride or potassium chloride; and alkaline or alkaline earth sulfates, such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate. A further embodiment refers to an agent for permanently restructuring the hair. It contains at least one reducing agent, particularly a mercapto reducing compound of keratin, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight. The permanent wave agent is preferably present as an aqueous, alkaline preparation (pH = 5 to 10), which contains, e.g. cysteine, cysteamine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, mercaptocarboxylic acids such as, for example, mercaptoacetic acid or thiolactic acid, or salts of mercaptocarboxylic acids such as, for example, ammonium and guanidine salts of mercaptoacetic acid or thiolactic acid as a keratin-reducing mercapto compound. The required alkalinity is obtained by adding ammonia, organic amines, ammonium and alkaline carbonates or bicarbonates. Neutral or acidic hair restructuring agents (pH 4.5 to 7) which have an effective content of mercaptocarboxylic acid sulfites or esters can also be considered. aqueous medium. In the first case, preferably, sodium or ammonium sulfite or the sulfuric acid salt can be used with an organic amine, such as, for example, monoethanolamine and guanidine, in a concentration of about 2 to 12% by weight (calculated as SO2). In the latter case, mono glycol esters of mercaptoacetic acid or glycerol esters are especially used in a concentration of about 5 to 50% by weight (corresponding to a content of 2 to 16% by weight of mercaptoacetic acid). The agent according to the invention for permanent hair restructuring may also contain a mixture of the aforementioned keratin-reducing compounds. For the oxidant after the treatment, a fixing agent according to the invention containing at least one oxidizing agent can be used. Examples of oxidizing agents that can be used in one of these types of fixing agents are sodium and potassium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide and hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of oxidizing agent may be from about 0.5 to 10% by weight. Both the agent according to the invention of the permanent hair restructuring agent and the fixing agent according to the invention can be present in the form of an emulsion in an aqueous base, particularly as a cream, a gel or a paste. The composition to be used according to the invention may also contain any conventional additive component for hair treatment agents, for example, essential oils; opacifying agents, such as ethylene glycol distearate, styrene / PVP copolymers or polystyrenes; humectants; shine suppliers; product dyes; antioxidants; each, preferably, in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, wherein the total amount, preferably, does not exceed 10% by weight. Accordingly, the object of the invention is also to provide a method for treating hair, wherein a product release system according to the invention is provided, by means of the product delivery system, the composition contained therein Sprays on the hair and the composition that is sprayed is rinsed from the hair after a period of action or is left on the hair. Instead of being sprayed directly on the hair, the product can also be placed on the hands or on an application device, such as, for example, a comb or a brush, and then distributed on the hair, particularly if the product has a consistency similar to snow or found in the form of flakes or foam. The products according to the invention are characterized, constrained by their special application with the special aerosol spray system to be used according to the invention, by an excellent distribution capacity in conjunction with a good styling stability with good support, as well as a shine for the hair. Another advantage of the products according to the present invention is that the different spray properties can be adjusted precisely, simply by varying the propellant, the composition of the propellant or the pressure of the propellant; these spray properties were not previously possible due to the underlying active ingredient compositions. Spray properties include from a fine mist sprayed with spray and snow drops, to spray flakes and spray foam. The following examples are useful to further illustrate the object of the present invention.

EXAMPLES In the following examples, individual active ingredient compositions, together with the individually indicated propellants, were charged into a pressure-resistant aerosol can and equipped with a capillary spray system, such as can be obtained, for example, with the trade name of TRUSPRAY® from Boehringer Ingelheim microParts GmbH.

Example 1: Solid microemulsion Composition with active ingredient: Consistency: Translucent and solid microemulsion Filling with propellant: Spray properties: 1 -1: Spray spray fine and dry 1 -2: Spray spray fine and moist 1-3: Formation of snow droplets 1 -4: Spray foam 1 -5: Very fine and dry spray They performed practical tests on a mannequin wig. In a comparison of halves, the left side of the wig was treated with a spray application 1-1 and the right side was treated with the highly viscous, propellant-free active ingredient composition. The spray version was easy to dispense and could be applied accurately; It was also easier to distribute in the hair than the pure active ingredient. Hair treated with the spray application exhibited a significantly better gloss and hold of the hairstyle compared to hair treated with the composition with pure active ingredient.

Example 2: Hair styling gel Composition with active ingredient: Consistency: Transparent, highly viscous gel Filling with propellant: Spray properties: 2-1: Snow type dew 2-2: Snow type dew 2-3: Wet spray 2-4: Spray foam 2-5: Droplets (snow type) Example 3: Hair styling cream Composition: Consistency: Highly viscous cream Filling with propellant: Properties of spray: 2-1: Fine spray spray 2-2: Wet spray mist 2-3: Dew Spray 2-4: Fine Spray Spray 2-5: Fine Spray Spray Example 4: Wax to comb the hair Composition: Consistency: Pasty wax Filled with propellant: Example 5: Treatment / product to repair creamy emulsion type hair Composition with active ingredient: Consistency: Thick cream Propellant loads: Spray properties: 5-1: Snow-type spray 5-2: Snow-type spray 5-3: Wet aerosol spray 5-4: Spray foam 5-5: Spray spray Example 6: Balsam for hair Composition: Consistency: Milk for viscous hair Propellant loads: Spray properties: 6-1: Snow type dew 6-2: Snow type dew 6-3: Wet spray 6-4: Spray foam 6-5: Spray foam

Claims (28)

1. CLAIMS 1. A product release system for spraying a cosmetic composition for hair, comprising the following: (a) a pressure resistant package, (b) a spray head containing a capillary and (c) a cosmetic composition containing a propellant, characterized in that the spraying is carried out using the capillary and the composition contains at least one cationic film-forming polymer, fixative or hair conditioner. 2. The product release system according to claim 1, further characterized in that the capillary has a diameter of OJ at 1 mm and a length of 5 to 100 mm. 3. The product release system according to one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the spraying rate is 0. 01 to 5 g / s. 4. The product release system according to one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the propellants are selected from propane, butane, dimethyl ether, fluorinated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. The product release system according to one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the cationic polymer is selected from homo- or copolymers, which are constructed of at least one of the following monomers: dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, methacrylate dialkylaminoalkyl, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkyl ammonium, dialkyldiallyl ammonium and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers with cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogens. The product release system according to one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic derivatives of hydroxyethylcellulose and epoxide cellulose substituted by trimethylammonium; poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride); copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; quaternary ammonium polymers, formed by the reaction of diethylsulfate and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; quaternary ammonium polymers of methyl vinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone; polyquatemium-35; trimethylammonioethyl methacrylate chloride polymer; polyquaternium-57; dimethyl polysiloxane terminally substituted by quaternary ammonium groups; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and methacryloylamino propyl lauryl dimethylammonium chloride; Chitosan and salts thereof; hydroxyalkyl chitosan and salts thereof; alkyl hydroxyalkyl chitosans and salts thereof; alkyl ethers of N-hydroxyalkyl chitosan. copolymers of vinyl caprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide; poly or oligoesters formed by at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from hydroxycarboxylic acid substituted by at least one quaternary ammonium group; The product release system according to one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it is a gel, a wax or an emulsion. 8. The product release system according to claim 8, further characterized in that the gel-like composition contains at least one thickener or gel former in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight. The product release system according to claim 8, further characterized in that the thickener or gel former is a thickener polymer, selected from copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and acid methacrylic and at least a second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; crosslinked polyacrylic acid; crosslinked copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid with C10 to C30 alcohols; copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, selected from itaconic acid esters with ethoxylated fatty alcohol; copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated alcohol of C10 to C30, and a third type of monomer, which is selected from C1 to C4 aminoalkyl acrylates; copolymers of two or more monomers, which are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate; ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymers and monomers selected from esters of methacrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohols; hydroxyethylcellulose; hydroxypropylcellulose; hydroxypropyl guar; glyceryl polyacrylate; glyceryl polymethacrylate; copolymers of at least one C2, C3 or C4 styrene and alkylene; polyurethanes; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; polyacrylamide; copolymers crosslinked with decadiene, consisting of maleic anhydride and methylvinyl ether; locust bean gum; guar gum; xantana; dehydroxantana; carrageenan; karaya gum; hydrolyzed corn starch; copolymers of polyethylene oxide, fatty alcohols and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate. 10. The product release system according to claim 7, further characterized in that the waxy composition contains at least one wax which is solid at 25 ° C in an amount of 10 to 80% by weight. 11. The product release system according to claim 10, further characterized in that the wax is selected from paraffin waxes, polyolefin waxes, wool wax, wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, olive wax, wax of carnauba, Japanese wax, apple wax, hydrogenated fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid triglycerides, polyethylene glycol waxes and silicone waxes. The product release system according to claim 7, further characterized in that the emulsion type composition is water in oil, oil in water or a microemulsion and contains at least one emulsifier in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight and at least one oil in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight and water. 13. The product release system according to claim 12, further characterized in that the oil is selected from silicone oils, mineral oils, isoparaffin oils, paraffin oils, squalene, sunflower oil, coconut oil, oil castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil and soybean oil. The product release system according to claim 12 or 13, further characterized in that the emulsifier is selected from the additional products from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to fatty alcohols of C8 to C22, additional products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to C12 to C22 fatty acids, additional products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide or 1 to 5 moles of oxide from propylene to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12 to C22 monoesters and fatty acid diesters of additional products from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol, additional products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene to castor oil or to hydrogenated castor oil, mono-, di-, or triesters of phosphoric acid with additional products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to C8 to C22 fatty alcohols, sucrose esters and one or two acids gra from C8 to C22, sorbitan esters and one, two or three fatty acids from C8 to C22 and an ethoxylation level from 4 to 20, polyglycerol fatty acid esters of one, two or more fatty acids from C8 to C22 and polyglycerol with 2 to 20 glyceryl units, alkyl glycosides, alkyldimethylbenzyl ammonium compounds of C8-22, alkyltrimethyl ammonium compounds of C8-22, alkyldimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium compounds of C8-22, di- (alkyl) -dimethyl ammonium compounds of C8 -22, alkylpyridinium salts of C8-22, alkylamido ethyl trimethyl ammonium ether sulfate of C8-22, alkylmethylamine oxides of C8-22, alkyl amino ethyl dimethyl amine oxides of C8-22, amidoamines and quaternized amidoamines. The product release system according to one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition contains at least one active ingredient or additional additive, selected from hair conditioning materials, hair fixative materials, silicone compounds, materials sunscreens, preservatives, pigments, dyes for hair of direct penetration, materials with a particle form, oxidizing agents, reducing agents and precursor products of hair oxidant dyes. 16. The product release system according to claim 15, further characterized in that the active ingredients and additives are contained in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight. 17. The product release system according to claim 15 or 16, further characterized in that it contains a non-ionic polymer as a conditioning or hair-setting material; that polymer is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, isobutylene / ethylmaleimide / hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate. 18. The product release system according to claim 15 or 16, further characterized in that it contains an anionic polymer as a conditioning or hair-setting material; that polymer is selected from terpolymer of acrylic acid, ethylacrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide; crosslinked or non-crosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers; terpolymers of tert-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid; sodium polystyrene sulfonate; copolymers of vinylacetate, crotonic acid and vinyl propionate; copolymers of vinylacetate, crotonic acid and vinyl neodecanoate; copolymers of aminomethylpropanol acrylate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and at least one additional monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of methylvinyl ether and monoalkyl esters of maleic acid; salts of aminomethylpropanol of copolymers of allylmethacrylate and at least one additional monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; crosslinked copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid; copolymers of vinylacetate, mono-n-butyl maleate and isobomyl acrylate; copolymers of two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid, copolymers of octylacrylamide and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; polyesters of diglycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid. 19. The product release system according to one of claims 15 or 16, further characterized in that a zwitterionic or amphoteric polymer is contained as a conditioning or hair setting material, with the polymer being selected from copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylic acid , butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate; copolymers of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, methacrylate of ethylamine oxide, and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of methacryloyl ethyl betaine and at least one monomer selected from methacrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of acrylic acid, methylacrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; oligomers or polymers that may be produced from quaternary crotonic betaines or quaternary crotonic betaine esters. 20. The product release system according to one of claims 15 to 19, further characterized in that it contains at least one silicone compound, which is selected from cyclic dimethylsiloxanes, linear polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane block polymers and polyethylene oxide. or polypropylene oxide, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal or side polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide radicals, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups, polydimethylsiloxanes substituted with phenyl, silicone emulsions, silicone elastomers, silicone waxes, silicone rubbers, silicones substituted with amines and silicones substituted with one or more quaternary ammonium groups. 21. The product release system according to one of claims 15 to 20, further characterized in that it contains at least one photoprotective material selected from 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, methyl methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and polyethoxylated p-aminobenzoates. 22. The product release system according to one of claims 15 to 21, further characterized in that it contains an active ingredient and an additive, which is selected from betaine; panthenol; panthenyl ethyl ether; sorbitol; protein hydrolysates; vegetable extracts; A-B block copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; block copolymers A-B of alkyl methacrylate and acrylonitrile; ABA block copolymers of lactide and ethylene oxide, ABA block copolymers of caprolactone and ethylene oxide, ABC block copolymers of alkylene or alkadiene compounds, styrene and alkyl methacrylates, ABC block copolymers of acrylic acid, styrene and alkyl methaclates , star-block block copolymers, hyperbranched polymers, dendrimers, intrinsically electrically conductive of 3,4-polyethylene dioxythiophenes, and electrically intrinsically conductive polyanilines. 23. The product release system according to one of claims 15 to 22, further characterized in that it contains at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), iron oxide black (Cl 77499), iron oxide yellow (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (Cl 77007), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (CI77510), bismuth oxychloride (CI77163), carmine (cochineal), color and pearlescent pigments based on mica or coated with metal oxide or metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, as well as, if necessary, additional materials that provide color, such as iron, iron blue, ultramarine or carmine oxides and further characterized because the color can be determined by varying the thickness of the layers. 24. The product release system according to one of claims 15 to 23, further characterized in that it contains at least one material in the form of a particle selected from silica, silicates, aluminates, alumina, mica, insoluble metal salts, metal oxides , minerals and insoluble polymer particles. 25. The product release system according to claim 1, further characterized in that the composition is a gel and contains (a) OJ at 10% by weight of at least one thickened polymer, selected from the copolymers of at least a first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and at least a second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; crosslinked polyacrylic acid; crosslinked copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid with C10 to C30 alcohols; copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; copolymers of at least one first type of monomer, selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, selected from esters of taconic acid and ethoxylated alcohol of C10 to C30, and a third type of monomer, which is selected from C1 to C4 aminoalkyl acrylates; copolymers of two or more monomers, which are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate; ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymers and monomers selected from esters of methacrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohols; hydroxyethylcellulose; hydroxypropylcellulose; hydroxypropyl guar; glyceryl polyacrylate; glyceryl polymethacrylate; copolymers of at least one styrene and alkylene of C2, C3 or C4; polyurethanes; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; polyacrylamide; copolymers crosslinked with decadiene, consisting of maleic anhydride and methylvinyl ether; locust bean gum; guar gum; xantana; dehydroxantana; carrageenan; karaya gum; hydrolyzed corn starch; copolymer of polyethylene oxide, fatty alcohols and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate; and (b) OJ at 5% by weight of at least one cationic film-forming polymer, fixative or hair conditioner, selected from cationic polymers in accordance with claim 6. 26. The product release system according to claim 1, further characterized in that the composition is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion or microemulsion and contains (a) 1 to 20% by weight of at least one oil or wax, selected from silicone oils , mineral oils, isoparaffin oils, paraffin oils, squalene, vegetable oils, paraffin waxes, polyolefin waxes, wool wax, wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, olive wax, carnauba wax, wax from Japan , apple wax, hydrogenated fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid triglycerides, polyethylene glycol waxes and silicone waxes; (b) 0.01 to 30% by weight of at least one emulsifier; and (c) 0.01 to 20% by weight of at least one cationic film-forming polymer, hair fixative or hair conditioner, selected from cationic polymers in accordance with claim 6. 27. Use of a product release system in accordance with with one of the preceding claims for the treatment of hair. 28. A method for treating hair further characterized in that a product delivery system according to one of claims 1 to 26 is provided by the product delivery system, the composition contained therein is sprayed onto the hair and It is rinsed from the hair after a period of action or left in the hair.