KR970001640B1 - Emulsive cosmetic composition of micro multiple lamella small ball structure nad preparation thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic emulsion having micro multiple lamella globule structure and its formulation are disclosed. The emulsion is excellent in skin penetration, efficacy, effect, and persistency in the skin, and stability against skin irritation. Purified water, thick glycerin, cetyle phosphate, and its salt are heat solved at 60-120 deg. C; cholesterol, sitosterol, cetes, and ceramide are added and liophilized; the solution is humidified at 60-120 deg. C and cooled at 40-80 deg. C and lamella globulized by high pressure microhomogenizer at 200-1,000 bars; hydrolized serum protein, yeast extract; micro multiple globulized by the high pressure microhomogenizer; macadamia oil, jojoba oil, rosehip oil and vitamin E are pre-solved and dispersed on the globule; micro multiple emulsified by the high pressure microhomogenizer; antiseptic and aromatic are added, agitated, stabilized, and cured for 24-28 hours. Thus the cosmetic emulsion with micro multiple lamella globule structure is formulated having average globule size of 0.035-2 micrometers, ceramide of 0.1-5.0% weight, cholesterol of 0.5-6.0% weight, and sitosterol of 1.0-10.0% weight.

Description

Emulsified cosmetics with fine multi-lamellar globule structure and manufacturing method thereof

1 is a frozen cut electron micrograph (160,000 magnification) of the oil-based (cream) cosmetic of the present invention.

2 is a frozen cut electron micrograph (160,000 magnification) of the oil-based (cream) cosmetic of the present invention.

3 is an optical micrograph (250 magnification) of an emulsion (cream) cosmetic by a conventional general emulsion method.

Figure 4 is a micrograph comparing the skin condition before and after applying the emulsion phase (lotion phase) cosmetic of the present invention.

5 is an image analysis comparison photograph of the skin before and after applying the emulsion phase (lotion phase) cosmetic of the present invention.

Figure 6 is a micrograph comparing the skin condition before and after applying the emulsion (cream) cosmetic of the present invention.

7 is an image analysis comparison photograph of the skin before and after applying the emulsion (cream) cosmetic of the present invention.

8 is a comparison table of skin elasticity before and after application (after 3 weeks of use) of the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention.

The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic product having a micro multiple lamella globule structure and a method of manufacturing the same, and more particularly, to amphiphilic natural lipid (ceramide) and natural By containing emulsifiers (cholesterol and cytosterol), the skin penetration of beauty ingredients can be enhanced during application of the skin, and the sustainability of the beauty effect can be enhanced by the stepwise release of the beauty ingredients, and the cosmetics can contain a large amount of beauty ingredients. The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic product having a fine multi-lamellar globule structure and to a method for producing the same, capable of improving the preservative power of the cosmetic ingredient.

The conventional oil-based cosmetic oils according to the general emulsification method are simple emulsion type or gel type products, and the content of the beauty ingredients needed in the cosmetics, the preservation of the contained beauty ingredients, and the cosmetic ingredients during application of the skin There was a limit to skin penetration and persistence.

Accordingly, in order to prevent skin aging, which is the ultimate goal of cosmetics, various efforts have recently been made to include skin active ingredients in cosmetics, and as part of such efforts, a drug delivery system (Drug Delivery), which is widely applied in the pharmaceutical field, has been tried. Liposome formation method of the skin active ingredient by the system) has been proposed.

However, when such a liposome substance is contained in a cosmetic product, even if it is destroyed in the product or remains in the product, it has a problem in that it is penetrated only to the skin epidermal part and can not properly exhibit its own beauty effect.

On the other hand, cosmetic emulsification method has conventionally used macro emulsification method (macro emulsion) and general microemulsion method (macro emulsion), but in the case of macro emulsification method, the emulsified particle size is mostly 1 μm or more, and mainly synthetic emulsifier (surfactant of It forms an oil phase using a kind of oil) and is classified into a hydrophilic type (Oil-in-water or less, O / W) or lipophilic type (water-in-oil or less, W / O). Latex cosmetics by the macro-emulsification method forms a simple cosmetic properties, there is a problem that can not be expected other than the moisturizing effect or emollient effect when applying the skin, there is a lot of concerns to irritate the skin.

On the other hand, when the general microemulsion method is applied, the emulsified particles are relatively fine in the macroemulsion method, but there is a problem that the skin irritation is severe by using an excessive amount of synthetic emulsifier (a type of surfactant), in particular emulsified particles As the fineness of the skin is excellent, there is a problem that skin irritation is caused because unnecessary substances such as synthetic emulsifiers are penetrated in a larger amount than the amount of cosmetic ingredients required by the skin.

Meanwhile, the conventional general emulsification method is divided into hydrophilic form (O / W) and lipophilic form (W / O). Here, the hydrophilic acid emulsion is a form in which the oil-soluble component in the dispersed phase is uniformly dispersed using a surfactant in the water-soluble component in the continuous phase, and a small amount of the skin-active ingredient is added to the skin. On the other hand, the oil phase of the lipophilic form is a form in which a water-soluble component that is a dispersed phase is uniformly dispersed using a surfactant in the oil-soluble component that is a continuous phase, and such a simple emulsified (O / W, W / O) form contains the content of the cosmetic component in the product. And there was a problem that there is a limit to the skin penetration and the persistence of the cosmetic effect.

The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, the object of the present invention is a base material of the amphipathic natural lipid ceramides (Ceramides), a natural emulsifier similar to the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum of the human body Sitosterol and cholesterol (Cholesterol) are contained in a certain composition ratio to form micro multiple lamella spheres, and the micro multiple lamella spheres are macadamia nuts having a composition similar to the sebum composition of the human body By enveloping natural oils such as Macademia Oil, JoJoba Oil and Rose Hip Oil in the form of microspheres, it has excellent skin penetration and excellent skin effect, effect, and sustainability. Emulsified cosmetics with a new type of microlamellar glomerulocyte structure with excellent stability against stimulation and its It is to provide a manufacturing method.

The present invention is characterized in that the structure of the globules containing 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of ceramide, 0.5 to 6.0% by weight of cholesterol, and 1.0 to 10.0% by weight of cytosterol, is a micromultiple lamellar structure.

In addition, the present invention is a method for producing an emulsion cosmetic using a micromultiple emulsification method, the structure of the micro-multiple lamellar spheres are formed in the form of a natural oil, vitamin-E, sunscreen, etc. The average size is characterized in that 0.035 ~ 2㎛.

Natural oils used in the present invention are, for example, 1 to 30% by weight of macadamia oil, 1 to 20% by weight of jojoba oil, 0.5 to 15.0% by weight of rose hip oil.

The effect of this invention containing such a component is as follows.

The present invention contains a natural emulsifier such as ceramide (amphoteric natural lipid), cholesterol, and cytosterol, which is similar to the intercellular lipid component of the skin stratum corneum of the human body, and by a special process (high pressure micro homogenizer) It has a lamellar globule structure, which enhances skin penetration of beauty ingredients when applying the skin, and enhances the persistence of beauty effects by the stepwise release of beauty ingredients, and improves the preservation of ingredients in the beauty ingredients. It works. In addition, the present invention is a micro-emulsion form, which is a unique emulsified form in which the formed micro-lamellar globules surround natural oil and a sunscreen, forming a protective film on the skin epidermis and simultaneously providing protection and flexibility from external stimuli. , So that the active ingredient is released slowly, there is an effect that the effect is durable.

The emulsion phase (lotion / cream) cosmetics using the micromultiple emulsification method according to the present invention will be described in more detail by the following examples, which do not limit the present invention.

Example 1

The raw material of the emulsion phase (lotion phase) cosmetics of the present invention prepared in this Example was used as described in Table 1 below, it was carried out in the following order.

(1) A part of purified water, thick glycerin, cetyl phosphate, and salts thereof were heated and dissolved at 60 ° C to 120 ° C.

(2) Cholesterol, cytososterol, cethes, and ceramides were made to be aprotic in the dissolving unit using a solvent or a heating method.

(3) After the components dissolved in (1) and (2) were wetted at 60 ° C. to 150 ° C. and cooled to a temperature of 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., 200-1000 Bar was used to maintain high pressure using a high pressure micro homogenizer. Lamellar structures were formed.

(4) After adding homogeneous active ingredients (components 11, 12, 13 in Table 1) to make them homogeneous, they were passed through a secondary high pressure micro homogenizer to fine-multiple microspheres.

(5) After dissolving the water-soluble component (components 7,8,9,10 in Table 1) in advance, and dispersing it uniformly in the micromultiple globulized component in (4), using a high pressure micro homogenizer, 3 Passing through to form a fine multi-emulsion phase.

(6) After adding and stirring a preservative, a fragrance, etc., it was stabilized and aged for 24 to 48 hours to prepare an emulsified (lotion phase) cosmetic product of the present invention.

Example 2

The raw material of the emulsion acid (cream) cosmetic of the present invention prepared in this Example was used as described in Table 2 and was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain an emulsion (cream) cosmetic of the present invention.

Comparative Example 1

The raw material of the conventional latex cosmetic composition prepared in this Comparative Example was used as described in Table 2 above, was carried out in the following order.

(1) Purified water, concentrated glycerin, and a surfactant (components 14 and 15 in Table 2) were dissolved in a water-soluble section at 60 ° C to 90 ° C.

(2) The oil-soluble component (component 7,8,9,10,16,17 in Table 2) was melt | dissolved by heating to 60 degreeC-90 degreeC in the oil-soluble part.

(3) The dissolved aqueous phase component and oil phase component were emulsified by a conventional general emulsification method as a turbine-type homogenizer.

(4) The emulsified emulsion was cooled to 30 ° C. to 70 ° C., and then cosmetically active ingredients (components 11, 12 and 13 in Table 2) were added and stirred.

(5) After the addition of preservatives and fragrances, the mixture was stirred for 8 to 48 hours to prepare an emulsified (cream) cosmetic product using a conventional general emulsifying method.

Experimental Example 1

In order to measure the structure, particle size, etc. of each of the emulsion cosmetics of the present invention prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 and the emulsion cosmetics according to the conventional general emulsification method, The following frozen cutting electron microscope confirmation experiment was carried out, and the emulsion cosmetics by the conventional general emulsification method of the comparative example was confirmed by the optical microscope.

Freeze-cutting electron microscopy experiment of emulsion cosmetics.

1. Preparation of Sample

A sample of the equivalent of an emulsified cosmetic product using the micromultiple emulsification method of the present invention prepared in Examples 1 and 2 is put in a rivet space, and a short hair of a person serving as a reinforcing supporter is inserted.

The support is immersed in slightly cold nitrogen and allowed to cool, then placed in the Bioetch 2005 Freeze Fracture Unit. The sample is cut at -140 ° C. with a vacuum of at least 10-6 Torr and this cut plane is immediately projected in Pt / C at a 45 ° angle. Remove the RIVET / Sample / Replica side from the freeze-cut unit, float the duplicate side in warm distilled water, remove it again, rinse with clean distilled water three times, and place on a 400 mesh scanning electron microscope grid to dry overnight. Put the grid in chloroform 20 times and dry.

2. Sample observation and shooting

The emulsion (lotion / cream) cosmetic sample of the present invention prepared above was observed with a scanning microscope (Joel 120EX), and magnified at 160,000 magnification, and is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2.

On the other hand, the sample of the emulsion phase (cream phase) emulsion cosmetic by the conventional general emulsification method of the sample was observed by an optical microscope, and magnified at 250 magnification and shown in FIG.

3. Explanation of frozen-cut electron micrographs (FIGS. 1 and 2) and optical micrographs (FIG. 3)

① Description of Figs. 1 and 2

The freeze-cut electron micrograph of the micromultiple emulsification method of the present invention is a high-magnification photograph enlarged by 160,000 times, and there are many micromultiple globules, the size of which is on average 0.035 to 0.2 µm and sometimes appears to be larger globules. As can be seen, it has a multi-lamellar structure.

② Figure 3

The optical micrograph of the conventional emulsion cosmetic (cream) cosmetics by the conventional emulsion method is a 250 times magnified picture that the average size of the emulsified particles is 2.5 ~ 0.75㎛ it can be seen that there is a fairly large size.

Experimental Example 2

In order to measure the efficacy and effect of the emulsion (lotion / cream) cosmetics to which the micromultiple emulsification method of the present invention prepared in Examples 1 and 2 was applied, the cream-based cosmetics and the lotion-based cosmetics were used as follows. It was performed together.

1. Subjects: Five of 15 women were coated with the creamy cosmetic composition of the present invention. The other five apply the cosmetic composition in a lotion state.

2. Duration of product use: 3 weeks after application to face and after application

3. Experimental equipment used:-Skin Image Analyser

Permometer

4. Experimental results (Efficacy and effect): It can be seen that the skin improvement state is good as shown through the skin micrograph or the image analysis picture shown in FIGS.

Claims (3)

Characterized in that it has a microlamellar lamellar globule structure having an average size of 0.035 to 2 μm, comprising 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of ceramide, 0.5 to 6.0% by weight of cholesterol, and 1.0 to 10.0% by weight of cytosterol. Oil painting cosmetics. A method for producing an emulsified cosmetic product having a fine multi-lamellar globule structure in which the average size of the particles formed by the following steps is 0.035 to 2 µm. (1) a step of heating and dissolving a part of purified water, concentrated glycerin, cetyl phosphate and salts thereof at 60 ° C to 120 ° C, (2) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of ceramide, 0.5 to 6.0% by weight of cholesterol and 1.0 to 10.0% by weight of cytosterol at the dissolving part by using a solvent or heating method, (3) The high pressure micro homogenizer which wetted the components melt | dissolved in said (1) and (2) process at 60 degreeC-150 degreeC, cooled to the temperature of 40 degreeC-80 degreeC, and maintains the pressure of 200-1000Bar. Forming a lamellar globule structure using a group, (4) homogenizing by adding hydrolyzed serum protein, yeast extract, and hyaluronate as cosmetic active ingredients, and then passing the secondary high pressure microhomogenizer to microsphere into a micromultiple lamellar structure; (5) After dissolving the pre-dissolved natural oil and vitamin-E uniformly in the microsphere lamella structure in the globule component, and then through a high-pressure micro homogenizer three times through the fine multi-lamellar Process of forming spheres, (6) A step of preparing an emulsified cosmetic product by adding and preserving a preservative, a fragrance and the like, and then stabilizing and aging for 24 to 48 hours. The method of claim 2, wherein the natural oil is 1-30 wt% of macadamia oil, 1-20 wt% of jojoba oil, and 0.5-15 wt% of rose hip oil.