KR20230100461A - Manufacturing method for producing fabrics having natural touch containing more than 50% recycled-PET - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric with a natural feel containing 50% by weight or more of recycled yarn, and more particularly, to a composite in which wool-like yarn is supplied as a warp, and recycled latent crimping yarn and wool-like yarn are plied. Provided is a method for producing a fabric containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester, characterized in that the fabric is produced by supplying the yarn to the weft.

Description

Method for producing fabrics containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester {Manufacturing method for producing fabrics having natural touch containing more than 50% recycled-PET}

The present invention relates to a method for producing a natural-sensing fabric containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester.

The global fashion apparel market requires differentiation through environmental regulations centered on developed countries such as the EU, development of eco-friendly textile materials in response to global fashion trends and consumer preferences, and development of natural sensibility products suitable for the well-being era.

As such, for more sustainable fashion, environmental and socio-economic aspects must be considered, and manufacturing, selling, and consuming clothing in a sustainable way as possible has recently become an issue as a major buyer's request.

In the case of existing global SPA brand products, there was a strong tendency to lead the market with low-to-mid price competitiveness by using low-quality materials. In order to establish a circular fashion system by 2020, the company has officially announced a strategy for selling apparel products using eco-friendly certified materials.

Recently, consumers are showing interest in natural materials such as wool, silk, and acetate, and this interest is expected to continue for a considerable period of time along with the high-end trend. Demand for natural sensibility composite materials endowed with functions such as windproof, stretch, etc. is also increasing.

Eco-friendly natural sensibility composite material is a material that uses eco-friendly synthetic fiber to express touch and gloss similar to natural fiber, and is in the limelight as a sustainable clothing material endowed with natural sensibility and eco-friendly function at the same time.

Recently, major SPA brands are requesting the development of clothing materials containing at least 20% of eco-friendly (recycled fibers), and H&M sells based on clothing materials containing 30% or more of eco-friendly fibers.

Republic of Korea Patent No. 1225158

The present invention, as a result of research to develop a material that can satisfy the prior art needs, is to provide a method for manufacturing a natural-sensing fabric containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester.

However, the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned problems, and other problems not mentioned will be clearly understood by those skilled in the art from the following description.

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors supply wool-like yarns in an inclined manner, latent crimp yarns; wool-like yarn; And one type of yarn selected from the group consisting of composite yarns in which latent crimp yarns and wool-like yarns are plied with weft yarns to produce fabrics, characterized in that natural sensibility fabrics containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester Provides a manufacturing method of.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the wool-like yarn is characterized in that it is interlaced through an intermingle nozzle.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the latent crimped yarn is characterized in that it is interlaced through an intermingle nozzle.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the interlacing process is characterized in that the interlacing process is performed under conditions of 50 to 110 interlacing threads/m and yarn speed of 300 to 600 m/min at an air pressure of 1 to 5 kg/cm 2 .

In another embodiment of the present invention, the latent crimped yarn is twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 550 to 800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or coincidence (S),

The wool-like yarn and the composite yarn in which the wool-like yarn is plied with the recycled latent crimp yarn are twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 1200 to 1800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or coincidence (S) characterized by

The fabric manufacturing method according to the present invention is characterized by containing 50% or more of recycled yarn.

1 is a view showing the structure and cross section of latent crimped yarn of the present invention.
Figure 2 is a view showing the structure and cross-section of wool-like yarn of the present invention.
3 is a diagram showing a basic interlacing process of the present invention.
4 is a view showing a process and a nozzle moving direction of an existing inting process.
5 is a view showing the result of confirming the performance of the nozzle.
6 is a view showing the result of inspecting the structure of the nozzle.
7 is a view showing the shape of the changed nozzle.
8 is a view showing the form of a yarn feeder for improving yarn supply.
9 is a view showing a yarn tension bar and a tension control device.
10 is a view showing an air regulator used for inting by air supply.
11 is a view showing the results of the improvement work of the four nozzles and the air line and the position and angle setting of the nozzles in the 2-nozzle system.
12 shows simulation results confirming the tension difference generated when the yarn is maritime.
13 is a view illustrating installation of nozzle brackets in interlacing equipment.
14 is a view showing the installation of guide bars between nozzles in interlacing equipment.
15 is a view showing the structure of the fabric woven in the present invention.

Details of other embodiments are included in the detailed description and drawings.

Advantages and features of the present invention, and methods of achieving them, will become clear with reference to the detailed description of the following embodiments taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. However, the present invention is not limited to the embodiments disclosed below, but can be implemented in various different forms, and in the following description, when a part is connected to another part, this is not only when it is directly connected. It also includes cases where they are connected with other media in between. In addition, parts not related to the present invention in the drawings are omitted to clarify the description of the present invention.

As a result of efforts to develop a material with excellent natural sensitivity, the present invention is a fabric manufactured using the fabric when manufacturing a fabric using the yarn after yarn processing through an intermingle process of wool-like yarn and recycled latent crimp yarn. The present invention was completed by confirming that the touch feeling was excellent and that it could contain 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester.

That is, the present invention supplies wool-like yarns to a warp, and recycled latent crimped yarns; wool-like yarn; And weft supplying one kind of yarn selected from the group consisting of composite yarns in which recycled latent crimp yarns and wool-like yarns are plied to provide a method for producing a fabric with a natural feel, characterized in that for producing a fabric.

In the present invention, the wool-like yarn and the recycled latent crimp yarn may be interlaced through an intermingle nozzle, and the composite yarn may also be interlaced through a nozzle.

In the present invention, the interlace processing is characterized in that it is performed under the conditions of an air pressure of 1 to 5 kg/cm 2 , an air incidence angle of 2 to 4°, a number of interlacings of 50 to 110/m, and a yarn speed of 300 to 600 m/min. Interlace processing is a type of air processing that uses a special nozzle. In the nozzle, the air fluid collides perpendicularly to the filament axis and at the same time generates parallel turbulence, opening the inside of the filament according to the tension of the thread, and at the same time random It is to have a mixing effect. As a result of performing the interlacing process under various conditions, the inventors of the present invention confirmed that the interlacing process was stably dispersed and plied under the above conditions. The interlace processing is performed using an intermingle 2~3Ø nozzle.

In addition, the latent crimp yarn is twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 550 to 800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or coincidence (S), and the wool-like yarn and the wool-like yarn are plied composite. The yarn may be twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 1200 to 1800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or coincidence (S).

The wool-like yarn is a low denier product produced with less than 100 denier based on advanced spinning technology and complex process, and has a luxurious and subtle gloss and touch close to natural acetate fiber, excellent sense of notice and excellent resilience It has elasticity and drape. The wool-like yarn may be made of ZENF-R 190/60 or FISTO-R 200/48 material.

Recycle latent crimp yarn is a material to which latent crimp lines are given by complex spinning of heterogeneous polymers with different viscosities. It has high elasticity and excellent rebound elasticity, so it has excellent recovery rate from shape deformation due to mechanical stretch and excellent activity, so it is suitable for clothes. Not only does it look good, but it also provides a comfortable fit. Preferably, SS5 80/48, SSY 100/24, CEY I 135/48, CEY I 185/60, ZENF-R 190/60 or FISTO-R 100/24 yarn may be used, but is not limited thereto.

The fabric may be designed with 5-ply satin, double-sided satin, or 3/2 TWILL right/left hem among basic tissues (plain, satin, twill, amunzen, etc.), and may be manufactured with a texture as shown in FIG. 15.

The fabric of the present invention may have a warp yarn count of 10,000 to 20,000 and a weft density of 50 to 90T, but is not limited thereto.

The present invention can provide a fabric manufactured by the manufacturing method as described above.

In the above, the technical idea of the fabric manufacturing method of the present invention has been described with the accompanying drawings, but this is an exemplary description of the best embodiment of the present invention, but does not limit the present invention.

[Example]

Example 1. Yarn Selection

In order to use wool-like yarns, LCY 60/48, RPY 60/36, and PRY 80/60 yarns were purchased and used for warp yarns, and at the same time, latent crimping yarns SS5 80/48 and SSY recycled for weft yarns were used to express eco-friendly effects. 100/24, CEY I 135/48, and CEY I 185/60 yarns were purchased and used, and yarn types for the final weaving fabric were selected and manufactured by producing composite yarns through the intermingle process with wool-like yarns.

Example 2. Manufacture of composite yarn

Development of interacing module for complex interlacing

In this embodiment, an interlacing module suitable for yarn processing of composite yarns was developed. As a result of confirming the progress of the existing inting process and the performance of the nozzle (FIG. 4 and FIG. 5), it was confirmed that the performance deteriorated due to the material and wear of the nozzle.

The cause of nozzle corrosion and abrasion was found to be due to air pressure, and considering that it is the most important part in air interlacing, after changing the nozzle material and inspecting the structure, the change was performed as shown in FIG. 6.

The changed nozzle shape is shown in FIG. 7 . After the intermingle process, the shape of the nozzle was transformed into a triangular cross section to increase the bulkiness of the yarn and to express the drapery and soft touch of the final developed fabric, and the angle at which the air enters was tilted 5 to 7 degrees instead of 90 degrees. produced. When wool-like yarn/recycle latent crimped yarn is intinged using the intermingle nozzle as described above, inting between fibers is possible at a constant rate, and a certain amount of air input can be adjusted, so that the yarn processing process proceeds smoothly. It has been confirmed that

In addition, in order to improve the yarn yarn, the spectator roller was installed and the overfeed operation was improved to enable stable supply of yarn (Fig. 8). In more detail, if the existing yarn had a yarn inserted in a flat state of 180 degrees, the yarn was injected with a height difference of 200 degrees for stable supply.

A tension bar and tension control device were also installed to prevent the yarn bending phenomenon in the yarn supply part creel (FIG. 9). It is a device that buffers different yarns when they meet during yarn input so that they can be stably input to the nozzle. It is possible to supply yarn stably only when the tension of each yarn is applied according to the elongation and tension.

In addition, as shown in FIG. 10, an air regulator for stable air supply was installed and used (1.5 times improved than the existing air compression ratio). Accordingly, it is possible to inting two types of sand at the same time.

Considering that the most important part of ITY yarn is the number of cross-links and uniformity, if different yarns are introduced with the same tension, the main properties of core yarn are destroyed. Therefore, even distribution of tension is required to ensure that yarns are uniformly injected over a certain period of time. Therefore, in the 2-nozzle system, the improvement work of the air passage and the air line and the position and angle setting of the nozzle were performed (FIG. 11).

As above, the position and angle of the first nozzle and the position and angle of the second nozzle must be kept constant, and it is necessary to maintain the distance and height between the two nozzles in proportion to a certain distance. The angle and distance between the two nozzles when entering the take-up roller are very important in interlacing, and at this time, it has been found that a sharp angle (more than about 45 degrees) that can affect tension has a negative effect.

Establishment of process processes such as optimal yarn length and yarn length suitable for interlacing conditions

Since yarns can be subjected to one-way stress according to different strengths and elongations, a simulation was conducted to reduce process variables between different yarns by checking the difference in tension generated when yarns are released (FIG. 12).

As a result, it was confirmed that even if the number of entanglements was large, the dyeability was poor, and the entanglement strength was not improved, and that parts that could be different for each item were generated.

Correlation analysis between interlacing nozzle location and number of bridges and location selection

In order to establish optimal conditions, nozzle brackets were installed as shown in FIG. 13 and appropriate conditions were established while checking the distance from each nozzle.

It was expected that the role of the guide bar between each nozzle would be very important, so the guide bar was installed as shown in FIG. 14 (interlacing operation at each nozzle may not be performed smoothly due to the influence of air).

New nozzle development case ITY composite yarn entanglement test final result data

A. Product name: 270D/108F (ZENF-R 190D/60F + SS5 80D/48F)

B. Firing speed: 450 m/min

C. Date: 2021 8.

Nozzle standard AirPress
(kgf/cm²) Sasok
(m/min) number of bridges
(m/ea) number of improvements
(m/ea) bridging strength Hall Φ Apostle A 1.5 Small 1.5 450 98-99 14-15 High B 1.5 Small 1.5 450 98-99 14-15 High C 1.5 Big 1.5 450 95-97 11~13 Medium triangular 1.5 1.5 450 83~84 - Low triangular 1.5 1.5 450 96-98 12 to 14 High

- When the New Nozzle Air Press was 1.3kgf/cm2 or less, the entanglement strength was reduced. Therefore, it is necessary to use a bridging strength of 1.5 kgf/cm 2 .

- Recommended: B 1.2 / Excellent: A 1.4 / Big

A. Product name: 300D/72F (FISTO-R 200D/48F + SSY 100D/24F)

B. Firing speed: 450 m/min

C. Date: 2021. 8.

Nozzle standard AirPress
(kgf/cm²) Sasok
(m/min) number of bridges
(m/ea) number of improvements
(m/ea) bridging strength Hall Φ Apostle B 1.6 Small 1.5 450 95-96 6-8 Medium B 1.6 Small 1.5 450 95-96 6-8 Medium C 1.6 Standard 1.5 450 98 to 100 8 to 10 Low 1.6 Standard 1.5 450 100-103 12 to 15 High 1.7 Small 1.5 450 100 to 105 10 to 12 High Triangular 1.6 1.5 450 91~96 - Low

- Recommended: 1.6/Standard / Excellent: 1.7/Small

As a result of the tests related to the development of the new nozzle as described above, the overall number and uniformity of entanglements were improved (shortened length and spacing) compared to the existing production conditions, and the overall quality improvement effect was achieved by improving the whiteness of the fabric due to the stability of the entanglement strength. It was expected.

Development of multi-processed yarn twisting process for functional and wool-like expression

The twisting process of wool-like yarn, recycle latent crimped yarn, and composite yarn (wool-like yarn + recycle latent crimped yarn intermingle) was studied using a 2 for 1 twisting machine.

· Equipment used: 2 for 1 repeater

Yarn used: wool-like yarn, recycle latent crimp yarn, composite yarn

Process factors: twist direction (left twist Z, coincidence S), number of twists (TM), twist rate

As a result of Jumbo and setting processes by performing twisting at 1000 ~ 1,800 T/M for both Z (left edge) and S (right edge), if T/M is too low, weft weft problems in the weaving process and the development of the yarn's original functionality A problem occurred, and when the T/M was too high, the touch of the fabric and the drape decreased, so in the case of wool-like yarn, 550 ~ 800T/M was used for twisting, and in the case of recycle latent crimped yarn and composite yarn, 1,500T/M The twisting process was performed with M.

Example 3. Fabric Preparation

A fabric was manufactured from the processed yarn. Among the basic tissues used in polyester fabrics (Plain, Satin, Twill, Amunzen, etc.), 5 Satin, double-sided Satin, and 3/2 TWILL right/left helix were designed, and the weft yarn was used as S right/Z left yarn to drape and stretch. In addition to maximizing the properties of the fabric, a new Dobby tissue (Fig. 15) was developed to develop the fabric.

In the case of special false twisted yarn, it has excellent rebound elasticity and excellent drapability, so outer fabrics such as suits and jackets were designed to maximize these characteristics.

In the case of the polyester fabric used for outerwear such as existing suits and jackets, the basic tissue of Twill or Satin, which can emphasize drape, is used a lot, and the fabric is designed using this (3/2 Twill, 5-sheet Satin, double-sided) Satin, etc.), and in addition, the Dobby tissue (Fig. 15) developed through self-analysis was applied to the fabric.

When designing weaving, a weaving design table was prepared so that the content of recycle yarn could be expressed at least 50% by weight, and the weaving process was performed.

part number yarn used oblique number
(copy) weft density
(T) slope weft Design Development-1 ZENF-R 190/60 ZENF-R 190/60 12,800 74 Design development-2 ZENF-R 190/60 ZENF-R 190/60 13,240 58 Design Development-3 ZENF-R 190/60 FISTO-R 100/24 12,800 64 Design Development-4 ZENF-R 190/60 FISTO-R 100/24 13,600 64 Design Development-5 ZENF-R 190/60 FISTO-R 100/24 12,400 70 Design Development-6 ZENF-R 190/60 FISTO-R 100/24 11,520 77 Design Development-7 FISTO-R 200/48 Composite Yarn 270/108
ZENF-R 190/60
SSY 80/48 14,260 82 Design Development-8 FISTO-R 200/48 Composite Yarn 270/108
ZENF-R 190/60
SSY 80/48 13,700 86 Design Development-9 FISTO-R 200/48 Composite yarn 300/72
FISTO-R 200/48
SSY 100/24 16,400 70 Design Development-10 FISTO-R 200/48 Composite yarn 300/72
FISTO-R 200/48
SSY 100/24 15,275 80

In the above, the technical idea of the fabric manufacturing method of the present invention has been described with the accompanying drawings, but this is an illustrative example of the best embodiment of the present invention, but does not limit the present invention.

Therefore, the present invention is not limited to the specific preferred embodiments described above, and various modifications can be made by anyone having ordinary knowledge in the art to which the present invention belongs without departing from the gist of the present invention claimed in the claims. Of course it is possible, and such changes are within the scope of the claims.

Claims (4)

To manufacture a fabric by supplying a wool-like yarn as a warp yarn and supplying a composite yarn in which recycled latent crimping and wool-like yarns are plied as a weft yarn,
The recycled latent crimp yarn is a recycled polyester, characterized in that, a method for producing a fabric containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester.
According to claim 1,
The wool-like yarn is interlaced through an intermingle nozzle, characterized in that, a method for producing a fabric containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester.
According to claim 1,
The recycled latent crimp yarn is interlaced through an intermingle nozzle, characterized in that, a method for producing a fabric containing 50% by weight or more of recycled polyester.
According to claim 2 or 3,
The interlacing process is performed under conditions of 50 to 110 interlacings/m and yarn speed of 300 to 600 m/min at an air incidence angle of 2 to 4 ° at an air pressure of 1 to 5 kg/cm 2 , using recycled polyester at 50 A method for producing a fabric containing at least a weight percent.

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