KR20220096930A - Manufacturing method of polyester fabric comprising the recycled yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric with natural sensibility containing 30 wt% or more of recycled yarns. More specifically, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a fabric with natural sensibility containing 30 wt% or more of recycled yarns, the manufacturing method being configured such that the fabric is manufactured by supplying an acetate-like yarn as a warp, and by supplying, as a weft, one kind of yarn selected from the group consisting of a latent crimped yarn, an acetate-like yarn, and a composite yarn in which a latent crimp yarn and an acetate-like yarn are twisted.

Description

Manufacturing method of polyester fabric comprising the recycled yarn

The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of recycled yarn.

The global fashion apparel market requires differentiation through environmental regulations centered on advanced countries such as the EU, development of eco-friendly textile materials in response to global fashion trends and consumer preferences, and development of natural sensibility products suitable for the well-being era.

For such a more sustainable fashion, environmental and socio-economic aspects must be considered, and manufacturing, selling, and consuming clothing in a sustainable manner has recently become an issue as a major buyer's request.

In the case of existing global SPA brand products, there was a strong tendency to lead the market with low-mid price competitiveness by using low-quality materials. In order to establish a circular fashion system by 2020, it has officially announced a strategy to sell clothing products using materials that have completed eco-friendly certification.

Recently, consumers are showing interest in natural materials such as wool, silk, and acetate, and this interest is expected to continue for a long time along with the luxury trend. The demand for natural sensible composite materials with functionalities such as , windproof and stretch is also increasing.

Eco-friendly natural sensibility composite material is a material that uses eco-friendly synthetic fibers to express a touch and luster similar to natural fibers.

Recently, major SPA brands have been requesting the development of clothing materials that contain at least 20% eco-friendly (recycled fibers), and H&M is selling them based on clothing materials containing more than 30% of eco-friendly fibers.

Republic of Korea Patent No. 1225158

As a result of research to develop a material that can satisfy the requirements of the prior art, the present invention intends to provide a method for manufacturing a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of recycled yarn.

However, the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned problems, and other problems not mentioned will be clearly understood by those skilled in the art from the following description.

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors supply an acetate-like yarn in a warp, a latent crimp yarn; acetate-like yarn; And manufacturing a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of recycled yarn, characterized in that the fabric is manufactured by supplying a weft yarn of one type selected from the group consisting of a composite yarn in which latent crimp yarn and acetate-like yarn are braided. provide a way

In one embodiment of the present invention, the acetate-like yarn is characterized in that the interlacing process through the intermingle nozzle.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the latent crimp yarn is characterized in that the interlacing process through the intermingle nozzle.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the interlacing processing is characterized in that it is performed under the conditions of 50 to 110 bridges/m and a firing speed of 300 to 600 m/min with an air pressure of 1 to 5 kg/cm 2 .

In another embodiment of the present invention, the latent crimped yarn is twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 550 to 800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or the coincidence (S),

The acetate-like yarn and the composite yarn in which the acetate-like yarns are braided are twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 1200 to 1800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or the right edge (S).

The method for manufacturing a fabric according to the present invention is characterized in that it contains 30% or more of recycled yarn.

1 is a view showing the structure and cross section of the latent crimped yarn of the present invention.
Figure 2 is a view showing the structure and cross section of the acetate-like yarn of the present invention.
3 is a view showing the intermingle process of the present invention.
4 is a view showing a process and a nozzle proceeding direction of an existing inting process.
5 is a view showing the result of confirming the performance of the nozzle.
6 is a view showing the result of checking the structure of the nozzle.
7 is a view showing the changed shape of the nozzle.
8 is a view showing a form of a yarn feeder for improving the supply of yarn.
9 is a view showing a yarn tension bar and a tension control device.
10 is a view showing an air regulator used for inting by air supply.
11 is a view showing the results of improving the sand and air lines in the 2 nozzle system and setting the position and angle of the nozzle.
12 shows the simulation results confirming the tension difference generated when the yarn is unwound.
13 is a view showing the installation of the nozzle bracket in the interlacing equipment.
14 is a view showing the installation of a guide bar between nozzles in the interlacing equipment.
15 is a view showing the structure of the woven fabric in the present invention.

The details of other embodiments are included in the detailed description and drawings.

Advantages and features of the present invention and methods of achieving them will become apparent with reference to the embodiments described below in detail in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. However, the present invention is not limited to the embodiments disclosed below, but may be implemented in a variety of different forms. However, it also includes cases in which other media are interposed in between. In addition, parts not related to the present invention in the drawings have been omitted to clarify the description of the present invention.

As a result of the present invention trying to develop an excellent material with natural sensibility, when the acetate-like yarn and the recycled latent crimped yarn are threaded through the intermingle process, and the fabric is manufactured using the yarn, the fabric manufactured using the fabric By confirming that it can contain 30% or more of recycled polyester as a recycled yarn, the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention provides an acetate-like yarn in a warp, recycled latent crimp yarn; acetate-like yarn; And it provides a method of manufacturing a natural sensibility fabric, characterized in that the fabric is manufactured by supplying a weft yarn selected from the group consisting of a recycled latent crimp yarn and an acetate-like yarn braided composite yarn.

In the present invention, the acetate-like yarn and the recycle latent crimp yarn may be interlaced through an intermingle nozzle, and the composite yarn may also be interlaced through a nozzle.

In the present invention, the interlacing processing is characterized in that it is performed under the conditions of an air pressure of 1 to 5 kg/cm2, an air incidence angle of 2 to 4°, the number of bridges 50 to 110 pieces/m, and a firing speed of 300 to 600 m/min. Interlacing processing is a type of air processing that uses a special nozzle. In the nozzle, the air fluid collides perpendicularly to the filament axis and at the same time generates a parallel turbulent flow to open the filament according to the tension of the yarn, and at the same time randomly to have a blending effect. The present inventors confirmed that, as a result of performing interlacing under various conditions, they were stably dispersed and braided when interlaced under the same conditions as above. The interlacing processing is performed using an intermingle 2-3Ø nozzle.

In addition, the latent crimped yarn is twisted to have a twist number (TM) of 550 to 800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or the accidental (S), and the acetate-like yarn and the acetate-like yarn are plied composite. The yarn, in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or the right edge (S), may be twisted so as to have a twist number (TM) of 1200 to 1800.

The acetate-like yarn is a low denier product that is produced below 100 dair based on advanced spinning technology and complex process, has a luxurious soft luster and touch, close to natural acetate fiber, has an excellent sense of notice and excellent It has rebound elasticity and drape properties. The acetate-like yarn may be made of BRD 65/72, EBBR 75/48, or HEX 100/36 material.

Recycle Latent crimp yarn is a material that has been given a latent crimp line by compound spinning different types of polymers with different viscosities. It has high elasticity and excellent rebound elasticity. Not only does it look stylish, but it also provides a comfortable fit. Preferably, the yarn may be SS5 80/48, SSY 100/24, CEY I 135/48, CEY I 185/60, FISTO 100/24, or ZNEF 190.60 yarn, but is not limited thereto.

The fabric may be designed with 5 sheets of Satin, double-sided Satin, or 3/2 TWILL right/left hand among basic tissues (Plain, Satin, Twill, Amunzen, etc.), and may be manufactured with the structure shown in FIG. 15 .

The fabric of the present invention may have a warp yarn count of 10,000 to 20,000, and a weft density of 50 to 90T, but is not limited thereto.

The present invention can provide a fabric manufactured by the manufacturing method as described above.

Although the technical idea of the method for manufacturing a fabric of the present invention has been described above with the accompanying drawings, the best embodiment of the present invention is exemplarily described and does not limit the present invention.

[Example]

Example 1. Selection of yarn

In order to use acetate-like yarns, LCY 60/48, RPY 60/36, and PRY 80/60 yarns were purchased and used for the warp. 100/24, CEY I 135/48, and CEY I 185/60 yarns were purchased and used, and composite yarns were manufactured through the intermingle process with acetate-like yarns to select and manufacture yarn types for the final weaving fabric.

Example 2. Composite yarn production

Development of Interacing module for complex interlacing

In this embodiment, it was attempted to develop an interlacing module suitable for the yarn processing of the composite yarn. As a result of checking the progress of the inting process and the nozzle performance used in the past ( FIGS. 4 and 5 ), it was confirmed that the performance degradation due to the material and wear of the nozzle was confirmed.

The cause of nozzle corrosion and wear was found to be a part due to air pressure, and considering that it is the most important part in air interlacing, the change was performed as shown in FIG. 6 after changing the nozzle material and checking the structure.

The changed nozzle shape is shown in FIG. 7 . After the intermingle process, the bulkiness of the yarn was increased, and the shape of the nozzle was changed to a triangular cross section for drapery and soft touch expression of the final developed fabric. produced. When the acetate-like yarn/recycle latent crimped yarn was inted using the intermingle nozzle as described above, constant inting between fibers was possible.

In addition, it was improved to enable stable supply of yarn by installing spectator rollers and overfeeding to improve yarn quality (FIG. 8). In more detail, if the existing yarn had a yarn in which the yarn was fed in a flat state of 180 degrees, for a stable supply, the yarn was put in with a height difference of 200 degrees.

In order to prevent yarn bending phenomenon in the yarn supply part creel, a tension bar and a tension control device were also installed (FIG. 9). It is a device that buffers when different yarns meet when inputting yarn so that it is stably fed up to nozzle.

In addition, as shown in Fig. 10, an air regulator for stable air supply was installed and used (1.5 times improved than the conventional air compression rate). Accordingly, two types of inting can be performed at the same time.

Considering that the most important part of ITY yarn is the number and uniformity of yarns, if different yarns are input with the same tension, the main properties of the core yarn are destroyed. Therefore, in the two nozzle system, the improvement work of the sand and air lines and the setting of the position and angle of the nozzle were carried out (FIG. 11).

As above, the position and angle of the first nozzle and the position and angle of the second nozzle must be kept constant, and it is necessary to maintain the distance and height between the two nozzles in proportion to the constant distance. The angle when entering the take-up roller from the second nozzle and the gap between the diagonals are very important in interlacing, and at this time, it was found that an abrupt angle (more than about 45 degrees) that can affect the tension has a bad influence.

Establishment of process processes such as optimal yarn and yarn length suitable for interlacing conditions

Since the yarn may be subjected to one-way stress according to different strengths and elongations, a simulation was conducted to reduce the process variables between different yarns by checking the difference in tension generated when the yarn is unwinding (FIG. 12).

As a result, it was confirmed that even if the number of bridges is large, the dyeability is lowered, the strength of the bridges is not improved, and there are parts that can be different for each item.

Correlation analysis and location selection between the location of the interlacing nozzle and the number of bridges

In order to establish optimal conditions, proper conditions were established while installing a nozzle bracket as shown in FIG. 13 and checking the distance from each nozzle.

The role of the guide bar between the nozzles was expected to be very important, so a guide bar was installed as shown in FIG. 14 (interlacing work in each nozzle may not be performed smoothly due to the influence of air).

New nozzle development case ITY composite yarn bridging test final result data

A. Product name: 145D/120F (BRD 65D/72F + SS5 80D/48F)

B. Fire speed: 450 m/min

C. Date: 2020. 8.

Nozzle standard AirPress
(kgf/cm2) death row
(m/min) number of bridges
(m/ea) number of improvements
(m/ea) bridging strength Hall Φ Apostle A 1.5 Small 1.5 450 98~99 14-15 High B 1.5 Small 1.5 450 98~99 14-15 High C 1.5 Big 1.5 450 95~97 11-13 Medium triangle 1.5 1.5 450 83-84 - Low triangle 1.5 1.5 450 96-98 12-14 High

- When the new nozzle air press was 1.3kgf/cm2 or less, the entangling strength was lowered. Therefore, it is necessary to use the bridging strength of 1.5kgf/cm2.

- Recommended :B 1.2 / Excellent : A 1.4/Big

A. Product name: 175D/72F (EBBR 75D/48F + SSY 100D/24F)

B. Fire speed: 450 m/min

C. Date: 2020. 8.

Nozzle standard AirPress
(kgf/cm2) death row
(m/min) number of bridges
(m/ea) number of improvements
(m/ea) bridging strength Hall Φ Apostle B 1.6 Small 1.5 450 95~96 6-8 Medium B 1.6 Small 1.5 450 95~96 6-8 Medium C 1.6 Standard 1.5 450 98 to 100 8-10 Low 1.6 Standard 1.5 450 100~103 12-15 High 1.7 Small 1.5 450 100~105 10-12 High triangle 1.6 1.5 450 91~96 - Low

- Recommended: 1.6/Standard / Excellent: 1.7/Small

A. Product name: 235D/84F (HEX 100D/36F + CEY I 135D/48F)

B. Fire speed: 450 m/min

C. Date: 2020. 8.

Nozzle standard AirPress
(kgf/cm2) death row
(m/min) number of bridges
(m/ea) number of improvements
(m/ea) bridging strength Hall Φ Apostle 2.0 Standard 1.6 450 70-72 4-6 Medium 2.0 Small 1.6 450 74~77 10-11 High 2.0 Small 1.6 (Loop) 450 75-78 6-8 High 2.0 Small 1.6 450 70-72 6-8 Low triangle 2.0 1.6 450 62~64 - Medium triangle 2.0 1.6 450 62~64 - Medium

- Recommended: 2.0/Small 1.3~1.4 kgf/㎠

As a result of the test related to the development of the new nozzle as described above, the overall number and uniformity of entanglements were improved (length and spacing were shortened) compared to the same production conditions as before, and the overall quality improvement effect due to improvement in whiteness of the fabric due to stabilization of entanglement strength was observed. was expected

Development of multi-processing yarn twisting process for functional and natural sensibility (acetate-like) expression

The twisting process of acetate-like yarn, recycle latent crimped yarn, and composite (acetate-like yarn+recycle latent crimped intermingle) yarn was studied using a 2 for 1 twisting machine.

· Equipment used: 2 for 1 continuous shooting machine

· Yarn used: acetate-like yarn, recycle latent crimp yarn, composite yarn

Process factors: twist direction (left edge Z, coincidence S), number of twists (TM), twist rate

Both Z (left)/S (right) yarns were twisted at 1000 ~ 1,800 T/M and after the jumbo and setting processes, if the T/M is too low, the problem of weft weft in the weaving process and the functional expression of the yarn’s original properties can be reduced. A problem occurred, and when the T/M was too high, the touch and drapery of the fabric was reduced, so in the case of acetate-like yarn, continuous yarn was conducted at 550~800T/M, and in the case of recycle latent crimp yarn and composite yarn, 1,500T/M The continuous yarn process was performed with M.

Example 3. Fabric Preparation

Fabrics were manufactured from yarn-processed yarns. Among the basic tissues (Plain, Satin, Twill, Amunzen, etc.) used in polyester fabric, 5 sheets of Satin, double-sided Satin, and 3/2 TWILL are designed for right/left. In addition to maximizing the properties of the fabric, a new Dobby organization (FIG. 15) was developed to develop the fabric.

In the case of a special false twist yarn, the fabric for pants and dresses was designed to maximize these characteristics because it has excellent resilience and drape.

In the case of polyester fabric used for existing pants and dresses, basic fabrics such as Twill or Satin that can emphasize drape properties are often used, so this is used to design fabrics (3/2 Twill, 5-ply Satin, double-sided Satin, etc.). ) and, in addition, the Dobby organization (FIG. 15) developed through self-analysis was applied to the fabric.

The weaving process was carried out by preparing a weaving design table so that the content of recycle yarn could be expressed more than 30% during weaving design.

Part number used yarn number of slopes
(copy) weft density
(T) slope weft Design development-1 BRD 65/72 SS5 80/48 12,800 74 Design development-2 BRD 65/72 SSY 100/24 13,240 58 Design development-3 BRD 65/72 CEY I 135/48 12,800 64 Design development-4 BEER 75/48 CEY I 185/60 13,600 64 Design development-5 BEER 75/48 SSY 100/24 12,400 70 Design development-6 BEER 75/48 CEY I 135/48 11,520 77 Design development-7 EBBR 75/48 Composite yarn 145/120
BRD 65/72
SSY 80/48 14,260 82 Design development-8 EBBR 75/48 Composite yarn 145/120 BRD 65/72
SSY 80/48 13,700 86 Design development-9 HEX 100/36 Composite yarn 175/72 EBBR 75/48
SSY 100/24 16,400 70 Design development-10 HEX 100/36 Composite yarn 235/84 HEX 100/24
CEY I 135/48 15,275 80

The description of the present invention stated above is for illustration, and those of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention pertains can understand that it can be easily modified into other specific forms without changing the technical spirit or essential features of the present invention. There will be. Therefore, it should be understood that the embodiments described above are illustrative in all respects and not restrictive.

Claims (5)

Acetate-like yarn is supplied in a warp, recycled latent crimp yarn; acetate-like yarn; And a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of recycled yarn, characterized in that by supplying a weft yarn selected from the group consisting of a composite yarn in which recycled latent crimp yarn and acetate-like yarn are braided to produce a fabric. manufacturing method.
According to claim 1,
The acetate-like yarn is a method for producing a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of recycled yarn, characterized in that the interlaced process through an intermingle nozzle.
The method of claim 1,
The method for producing a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of recycled yarn, characterized in that the recycled latent crimped yarn is interlaced through an intermingle nozzle.
4. The method of claim 2 or 3,
The interlacing processing is 30% of recycled yarn, characterized in that it is performed under the conditions of 50 to 110 interlaces/m, and a yarn speed of 300 to 600 m/min at an air incidence angle of 2 to 4° with an air pressure of 1 to 5 kg/cm 2 A method for producing a polyester fabric containing the above.
According to claim 1,
The latent crimp yarn is twisted so as to have a twist number (TM) of 550 to 800 in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or the chance (S),
The acetate-like yarn and the composite yarn in which the acetate-like yarns are braided, in the twist direction of the left edge (Z) or the right edge (S), are twisted so as to have a twist number (TM) of 1200 to 1800, recycled A method for producing a polyester fabric containing 30% or more of yarn.

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