KR20220156418A - Emulsified or oil dispersed cosmetic composition comprising high-content powder - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an emulsified or oil-dispersed cosmetic composition containing wax, powder and a fatty acid ester surfactant, wherein the powder is included in 20 wt% or more based on the total weight of the composition. The present invention may provide the composition which has excellent dispersibility while containing a high content of powder by preventing the aggregation of powder by wax, has enhanced filling ability of powder, and has excellent fluidity at high temperatures.

Description

Emulsified or oil dispersed cosmetic composition comprising high-content powder

The present invention relates to an emulsified or oil-dispersed cosmetic composition containing a high content of powder, and more specifically, to a composition containing wax, powder, and a fatty acid ester surfactant.

High content of volatile oil and powder can be used to achieve soft application and powdery finish, but in the case of oil-dispersion balm formulations such as sticks, despite the advantages of easy portability and high usability, the formulation depends on the sealing power of the container Due to restrictions, the use of volatile oils has been limited and it has been difficult to realize a feeling of use.

In particular, solid balm-type cosmetics containing wax are filled for a long time at a high temperature above the melting point, so if they contain a high content of volatile oil, the feeling of use and stability of the product may be affected depending on the filling time before and after filling.

Conventionally, emulsified and oil-dispersed balm-type cosmetics containing high-content powder instead of volatile oil were developed to realize a smooth, powdery finish, but to overcome the limitations of formulation stability and container restrictions, but a large amount of spherical powder When applied, the higher the powder content, the lower the powder dispersibility and the lower the fluidity at high temperatures, resulting in a decrease in productivity in the filling process. In the case of using a bentonite-type raw material and a surfactant for improving dispersibility in order to increase fluidity, the viscosity of the formulation is rather increased and the fluidity decreases, which further adversely affects productivity.

The present inventors have confirmed that, in emulsified and oil-dispersed formulations containing wax, the powder tends to aggregate with each other due to the structure of the wax, but the aggregation of the powder can be prevented by applying a fatty acid ester surfactant.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide an emulsified or oil-dispersed cosmetic composition capable of improving the dispersibility of the powder and exhibiting excellent fluidity at high temperatures while including a high content of the powder.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides an emulsified or oil-dispersed cosmetic composition comprising wax, powder and a fatty acid ester surfactant, wherein the powder is included in an amount of 20% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention provides a composition that contains a high content of powder, has excellent dispersibility by preventing aggregation of the powder by wax, improves the fillability of the powder because it can contain a high content of powder, and has excellent fluidity at high temperature. can do.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention may have a skin improvement effect by providing excellent application properties and a soft feeling of use.

1 shows a schematic diagram of the dispersion of a surfactant and a powder in a wax according to the present invention.
Figure 2 is a photograph showing the high-temperature fluidity according to Experimental Example 1, in Figure 2 (a) is Example 1, (b) is Example 2, (c) is Comparative Example 1, (d) is Example 3 is shown.
Figure 3 is a photograph showing the high-temperature fluidity according to Experimental Example 4, Figure 3 (a) shows Example 4, (b) is Example 5, (c) shows Comparative Example 2.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention relates to an emulsified or oil-dispersed cosmetic composition comprising wax, powder, and a fatty acid ester surfactant, wherein the powder is included in an amount of 20% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.

The inventors of the present invention use a fatty acid ester surfactant having an ester condensation structure having at least one hydrophilic group containing a hydroxyl group and at least one lipophilic group containing a fatty acid to prevent aggregation of powders and improve dispersibility while improving filling properties at high temperatures. It was confirmed that a high content of powder can be included in the formulation by enhancing the composition.

Specifically, the powder tends to agglomerate with each other due to the structure of the wax, but the surfactant according to the present invention includes fatty acids and has good compatibility with the wax, and is bulky compared to other surfactants, so the powder is physically Distributed and maintained.

In the present invention, "high temperature" means a temperature of 40 ° C or higher, and more specifically means a temperature of 45 ° C or higher, 50 ° C or higher, or 55 ° C or higher.

In the present invention, the surfactant is a fatty acid ester surfactant, and means a product of an ester condensation reaction between a hydroxyl group and a carboxyl group of a fatty acid.

Specifically, the surfactant of the present invention may be formed by an ester condensation reaction of a polyalcohol and a fatty acid, or a single ester condensation reaction of a fatty acid compound containing both a hydroxyl group and a carboxyl group.

Since the surfactant of the present invention contains a fatty acid and has a large volume, the powder can be physically dispersed. Examples of such fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, hydroxystearic acid or hydroxymyristic acid.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant may be at least one selected from the group consisting of polyhydroxy fatty acids, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, and polyglycerol fatty acid esters.

The polyhydroxy fatty acid is a polymer of fatty acids containing a hydroxyl group, and may be formed through ester condensation polymerization in a molecule due to the hydroxyl group in the fatty acid. For example, polyhydroxystearic acid is a polymer of hydroxystearic acid, and means a polymer formed by ester condensation polymerization of hydroxystearic acid.

The polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester may be formed by ester condensation polymerization of a hydroxyl group of a polyethylene glycol group and a fatty acid. For example, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate may represent an average of 30 PEG and diester forms of hydroxystearate.

The glycerin fatty acid ester may be formed by ester condensation polymerization of glycerin and a fatty acid, and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be formed by ester condensation polymerization of polyglycerol and a fatty acid.

In the present invention, the surfactant is polyhydroxystearic acid, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-20 dipolyhydroxymyristate, PEG-40 dipolyhydroxypalmitate, and PEG-4 trimethylol. Propane Distearate, PEG-4 Glyceryl Distearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polylysis Noleate, PEG-6 Distearate, PEG-6 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, Glyceryl Stearate , PEG-23 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate, 　 sorbitan stearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, and sorbitan olivate. One or more may be used, but is not limited thereto.

More preferably, the surfactant of the present invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of polyhydroxystearic acid, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant may have a molecular weight of 1,000 to 100,000 g/mol, preferably 2,000 to 100,000 g/mol. When it has a molecular weight within the above range, the surfactant can easily physically disperse the powder.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant may be included in 0.01 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the surfactant may be included at 0.01 to 2% by weight, 0.01 to 1% by weight, 0.1 to 1% by weight, or 0.1 to 0.8% by weight. When the surfactant is within the above range, the powder can be sufficiently dispersed and the high-temperature fluidity can be improved.

In the present invention, the wax may be at least one selected from the group consisting of ozokerite, beeswax, cocoa butter, candelina wax, carnauba wax, synthetic wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin wax, polyethylene wax, and beeswax. The most preferred wax may be ceresin wax or synthetic wax. However, any wax used in the preparation of a balm formulation or stick formulation in the art may be used without limitation.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the wax may be included in 2 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the wax may be included in an amount of 2 to 8% by weight, or 4 to 8% by weight. If the wax is less than 2% by weight, it is difficult to prepare a desired cosmetic formulation due to insufficient viscosity, and if it is more than 10% by weight, formulation stability or feeling of use may be impaired.

In the present invention, the powder is one selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talc, mica, iron oxide, nylon, polymethylsilsesquioxane, synthetic fluorophlogopite, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, silica, and mixtures thereof. There may be more than one species. Preferably, the powder may be titanium dioxide, polymethylsilsequioxane or a mixture thereof.

The powder may be included in an amount of 20% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it may be included in 30% by weight or more, 40% by weight or more, 43% by weight or more, 45% by weight or more or 50% by weight or more, more preferably 30 to 80% by weight, 40 to 80% by weight, 45 to 80% by weight 75% by weight, 45 to 70% by weight, or 50 to 70% by weight. The composition of the present invention may have high fluidity and filling properties even when the powder is included in a high content as in the above content range. As long as the powder is intended to provide a powdery feeling of use, the content of the powder or the type of the powder is not particularly limited.

In the present invention, the size of the powder may be 0.1 to 100 um, preferably 0.1 to 10 um, more preferably 0.1 to 1 um or 3 to 10 um, for example, about 250 nm or 4 to 9 um.

The composition of the present invention may further include an oil phase. In addition, the weight ratio of the oil phase and the powder may be 1:1 to 1:4. It may preferably be 1:1 to 1:3, and more preferably 1:1.3 to 1:2.5. When the oil phase and the powder are included in the above weight ratio, it is possible to impart a powdery feeling of use without leaving a sticky feeling in the finish while having a smooth application property.

The oil phase may include at least one selected from the group consisting of silicone oil, ester-based oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, triglyceride-based oil, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylcyclopolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and octamethyltrisiloxane. It may be one or more selected from the group consisting of, but is not limited thereto.

Ester oils include hexyllaurate, triethylhexanoin, cetylethylhexanoate, cetyloctanoate, cetylisooctanoate, octyldodecylmyristate, pentaerythrityltetraethylhexanoate, isopropylpalmy It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of tate, isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, tocopherol acetate, and dicaprylic carbonate, but is not limited thereto.

The hydrocarbon-based oil may be at least one selected from the group consisting of paraffin, ceresin, and microcrystalline wax, but is not limited thereto.

Triglyceride oils include C8-12 acid triglyceride, C12-18 acid triglyceride, caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric/lauric triglyceride, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglyceride, C10-18 selected from the group consisting of triglyceride, glyceryl triacetyl hydrostearate, soybean glyceride, tribehenin, tricaprine, triethylhexanoin, triheptanoin, triisostearin, tripalmitin and tristearin It may be one or more, but is not limited thereto.

The composition of the present invention may have a hardness of 100 to 5,000, preferably 200 to 4000, and more preferably 1500 to 3200 dyne/cm ² when in a solid state such as a balm formulation at room temperature, but is not limited thereto. The hardness can be measured, for example, at a speed of 2 cm/min at a depth of 2 mm using a pin having a diameter of 10 Φ among dedicated adapters of the Fudoh Reo Meter. Preferably, the composition of the present invention may be a balm formulation having a hardness of 100 to 5,000 dyne/cm ² .

The composition of the present invention may have a viscosity of 10 to 1000 cps (Centipoise), preferably 10 to 200 cps, 15 to 200 cps or 10 to 100 cps, and most preferably 13 to 90 cps. The viscosity range may be measured at a high temperature, preferably 60 to 100 ° C, more preferably 70 to 90 ° C, for example, 80 ° C. When the viscosity of the composition is less than 10 cps at high temperature, formulation stability in a molten state is impaired due to excessive flowability, and when it exceeds 1000 cps, filling property is poor due to excessive viscosity and it is difficult to produce a desired shape. The viscosity may be measured at 30 rpm for 1 minute using spindle #3 in a Brookfield rheometer.

The composition of the present invention may additionally include commonly used emulsification stabilizers, sunscreens, humectants, oil phase agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alcohols, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, or natural extracts, but is not limited thereto.

A composition according to the invention may be substantially free of, or completely free of, a thickening agent. In particular, it may not substantially contain a powdery oily thickener such as hectorite. In addition, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free of, or completely free of, volatile oils.

The composition according to the present invention may be a non-aqueous oil dispersion formulation that does not substantially or does not contain an aqueous phase.

In the present invention, "substantially free" may mean less than 1% by weight or less than 0.1% by weight, or not included at all.

The composition of the present invention may be prepared as a balm-type formulation, in particular, an oil-dispersed balm-type formulation, and when prepared in such a formulation, the viscosity (fluidity) of the composition is excellent in a high-temperature manufacturing process and thus may have excellent filling properties.

The balm formulation exists in a solid state and may mean a form that melts when applied to the skin, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The balm formulation may be formulated as an oil balm, cleansing balm, lip balm, sun balm, hair balm, or multi balm.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a stick, cake, pact or gel type formulation in addition to a balm type formulation. It can be used for any one purpose selected from the group consisting of foundation, concealer, makeup base, BB cream, lotion, cream, and wax.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by the following experimental examples. However, the following experimental examples are merely illustrative of the present invention, and the contents of the present invention are not limited by the following experimental examples. In addition, since these experimental examples are only for the purpose of helping the understanding of the present invention, the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto in any sense.

Example

Preparation Example 1 - Preparation of the composition of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1

Wax components, oil components, and surfactant were added to the oil phase tank and heated to 85° C. to completely melt the wax, and then mixed uniformly with a disper mixer. After confirming that the mixture was uniformly mixed, the powder was slowly introduced, completely dispersed using a disper mixer, and then defoamed to prepare the mixture. Compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared with the compositions shown in Table 1 below, respectively.

division ingredient name Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Example 3 wax component Seresin 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Synthetic wax, ethylene/propylene copolymer 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 oily ingredients Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Hexylaurate 5 5 5 5 dimethicone 5 5 5 5 Surfactants polyhydroxy stearic acid 0.3 0.3 - 0.6 powder titanium dioxide 25 25 25 25 Polymethylsilsesquioxane 32 35 38 38 antiseptic 1,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

*Hexyllaurate: trade name - KAK-HL, manufacturer - high alcohol

*Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate : trade name - DERMOFEEL BGC, manufacturer - DR-STAETMANS

Salacos HS-6C from NISSHIN OILLIO was used as polyhydroxystearic acid. Among the powders, LP-TR-10 from MIYOSHI was used for titanium dioxide, and its average size was 250um. As polymethylsilsesquioxane, SESQ-101 from N&M TECH was used, and its average size was 4 to 9um.

Experimental Example 1 - Evaluation of fluidity at high temperature

The composition according to Preparation Example 1 was filled (15 g) in an x-1 metal dish at 80 degrees and visually compared whether the contents were piled up or filled up to the corner. The smoother the surface and the smaller the empty space at the corner, the better the fluidity. judged to be The results are shown in Table 2 and FIG. 2 below. 2 (a) to (d) show Examples 1 and 2, Comparative Example 1 and Example 3, respectively.

division Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Example 3 High temperature
fluidity ◎ ○ X ◎

As shown in FIG. 2 and Table 2, it was confirmed that the high-temperature fluidity decreased as the powder content increased, and the high-temperature fluidity improved as the surfactant content increased. In particular, in Comparative Example 1, which did not contain a surfactant, the contents piled up and the outer portion was not filled, but in the case of Example 3, despite the high powder content, the formulation was filled up to the edge of the metal dish without gaps and the surface was flat, resulting in high-temperature flow It was confirmed that the degree was greatly improved.

Experimental Example 2 - sensory evaluation

Sensory evaluation of applicability, coverage, powderyness and preference was conducted on a 5-point scale with 20 consumers in their 20s to 40s. The results are shown in Table 3.

division Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Example 3 Spreadability* 4.8 2.2 4.8 coverage* 4.5 4.4 4.6 Powdery* 3.5 4.5 4.6 preference* 4.2 2.3 4.6

As the content of titanium dioxide was high, the coverage item score was highly evaluated in all samples. In addition, when comparing Examples 1 and 3, it was confirmed that as the powder content increased, the spreadability was maintained, but the evaluation score for powderyness improved. Comparing Comparative Example 1 and Example 3, it was confirmed that as the content of the surfactant increased when the powder content was the same, the high-temperature fluidity improved and at the same time the spreadability and powderyness evaluation scores improved.

Experimental Example 3 - Measurement of viscosity and hardness

Hardness and viscosity were measured for Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1. As in Experimental Example 1, the composition was molded on a x-1 metal plate at 80 degrees, and after one hour, the penetration hardness was measured using the FUDOH Rheometer No.3 (D=10Φ) spindle at a speed of 2 cm/min and a depth of 2 mm. measured. Viscosity was measured for 1 minute at 30 rpm using a Brookfield viscometer spindle #3 at a temperature of 80 °C. The results are shown in Table 4.

division Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Example 3 Hardness 1730 2100 2640 2450 viscosity 21 62 126 15

As shown in Table 4, it can be confirmed that Examples 1 to 3 have lower viscosity values than Comparative Example 1, so that the fillability is excellent, and hardness also shows a value in an appropriate range.

Preparation Example 2 - Preparation of the composition of Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Example 2

In addition to polyhydroxystearic acid, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate with a similar structure and PEG-10 dimethicone, a commonly used surfactant, were changed to Table 5 in the same manner as in Preparation Example 1 above. The compositions of Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Example 2 having the compositions described in were prepared, respectively.

division ingredient name Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 2 wax component Seresin 3.5 3.5 3.5 Synthetic wax, ethylene/propylene copolymer 2.5 2.5 2.5 oily ingredients Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate to 100 to 100 to 100 Hexylaurate 5 5 5 dimethicone 5 5 5 Surfactants polyhydroxy stearic acid 0.6 - - PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate - 0.6 - PEG-10 Dimethicone - - 0.6 pigment titanium dioxide 25 25 25 Polymethylsilsesquioxane 38 38 38 antiseptic 1,2-hexanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5

Salacos HS-6C from NISSHIN OILLIO was used for polyhydroxystearic acid, CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) (ARLACEL 135) from CRODA was used for PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and PEG-10 Dimethyl Chicon used SHIN-ETSU's KF-6017. Among the powders, LP-TR-10 from MIYOSHI was used as titanium dioxide, and its average size was 250um. As polymethylsilsesquioxane, SESQ-101 from N&M TECH was used, and its average size was 4 to 9um.

Experimental Example 4 - Evaluation of fluidity at high temperature

High-temperature fluidity evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Experimental Example 1. The results are shown in Table 6 and FIG. 3 below. 3 (a) to (c) show Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Example 2, respectively.

division Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 2 high temperature fluidity ◎ ○ X

As shown in FIG. 3 and Table 6, Example 5 using PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate as a surfactant was slightly inferior to Example 4, but showed improved high-temperature fluidity and had no abnormalities in the filling state. However, in the case of Comparative Example 2 using PEG-10 dimethicone as a surfactant, it was confirmed that the high-temperature fluidity was lowered and the filling state was not uniform.

Experimental Example 5 - Measurement of viscosity and hardness

Hardness and viscosity of Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Example 2 were measured in the same manner as Experimental Example 3, and the results are shown in Table 7.

division Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 2 Hardness (dyne/cm2) 2450 3180 3090 viscosity 15 68 98

As shown in Table 7, it can be confirmed that Examples 4 and 5 have lower viscosity values than Comparative Example 2, so that the fillability is excellent, and hardness also shows a value in an appropriate range.

Claims (11)

Including wax, powder and fatty acid ester surfactant,
The powder is an emulsified or oil-dispersed cosmetic composition containing 20% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition. According to claim 1,
The surfactant is at least one cosmetic composition selected from the group consisting of polyhydroxy fatty acids, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters and polyglycerol fatty acid esters. According to claim 1,
The cosmetic composition wherein the surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of polyhydroxystearic acid, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof. According to claim 1,
The surfactant is a cosmetic composition having a molecular weight of 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol. According to claim 1,
The wax is at least one cosmetic composition selected from the group consisting of ozokerite, beeswax, cocoa butter, candelina wax, carnauba wax, synthetic wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin wax, polyethylene wax and beeswax. According to claim 1,
The powder is a cosmetic composition included in 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to claim 1,
The size of the powder is 0.1 ~ 100um cosmetic composition. According to claim 1,
A cosmetic composition further comprising an oil phase, wherein the weight ratio of the oil phase and the powder is 1:1 to 1:4. According to claim 1,
The composition is a cosmetic composition of a balm formulation having a hardness of 100 to 5,000 dyne/cm ² . According to claim 1,
The composition is a cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 10 to 1000 cps at a temperature of 60 ~ 100 ℃. According to claim 1,
The composition is a cosmetic composition that is a non-aqueous oil dispersion formulation.

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