KR100614380B1 - Solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion using gelling agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 2% by weight of the inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6% by weight of the organic gelling agent, 10 to 60% by weight of the oil component containing volatile oil , 1.5 to 10 wt% wax, 1 to 5 wt% emulsifier, 10 to 50 wt% pigment component and 5 to 40 wt% aqueous phase component. The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention not only has excellent stability against sweating, but also has a good phase change from a solid phase to a liquid phase during use, and is moist and very light, and a phase change from a liquid to a powder after use. The overall satisfaction with the feeling of use is excellent, such as getting up quickly and showing a powdery finish makeup effect.

Inorganic gelling agent, organic gelling agent, oil, water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic, phase change

Description

Solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion using gelling agent}

Figure 1a is a photograph showing the results of the makeup burying evaluation of commercially available liquid foundation.

Figure 1b is a photograph showing the results of the makeup burying evaluation of commercially available powder foundation.

Figure 1c is a photograph showing the makeup burying evaluation results of the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a graph showing the kinetic coefficient measurement results of the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition and the existing cosmetic composition of the present invention.

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition.

Solid cosmetics generally can be divided into powdered cosmetics which solidify the main ingredient pigment with an oil binder, solid oily cosmetics where wax and oil oil are dispersed as main ingredients, and solid emulsion cosmetics emulsified with oil-based ingredients such as waxes and water-based ingredients. have. In the case of emulsifying cosmetics, it provides a refreshing and moist feeling that cannot be felt in powder cosmetics without water or cosmetics consisting only of oily ingredients, and gives a natural makeup effect because the makeup is not thick. Emulsion cosmetics have been studied a lot because of such advantages.

For example, silicone wax may be applied to prevent hardness change or shape change due to temperature change (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-220321), or hydrogenated jojoba oil to improve the soft feel (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-53425), various studies have been conducted to apply spherical powder and hydrophobized powder (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-327575), which has an effect of correcting skin irregularities and has excellent usability.

However, these studies do not observe the feeling characteristics according to the degree of phase change from solid to liquid, liquid to powder inherent in solid emulsion cosmetics. In other words, to improve the stability and overall feeling of the product by using or modifying the characteristics of each raw material, a large amount of wax is used to prevent the separation of the aqueous phase and the oil phase, and to maintain the stability of the solid form over time. Falls. In particular, the phase change to a solid, liquid, powder is not made clearly has a problem in that the overall feeling of use or finish makeup effect after the application is reduced when applied to the skin.

On the other hand, the emulsion cosmetic composition is generally divided into oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type. Oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type is a hydrophilic type, which has the advantage of being moist and soft.However, the makeup persistence and water resistance are inferior, and when the contents are exposed to air, shrinkage due to volatilization of the water phase causes long-term stability. This has the disadvantage of deteriorating. In order to remedy this drawback, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsified type has been developed. The oil-in-water (W / O) emulsion type has excellent cosmetic persistence and water resistance, but it is burdened by the skin due to stickiness, oiliness, waxiness, and the like. In addition, there is a disadvantage that the feeling of use, such as spreadability, spreadability is poor.

In order to improve the feel of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition containing a large amount of volatile silicone oil has been developed. However, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition containing a volatile silicone oil, like the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, when the contents are exposed to air, the contents shrink by volatilization of the volatile silicone oil, resulting in poor long-term stability. In addition, when applied to the skin, it is spread lightly at first, but due to the rapid volatilization of silicone oil, the feeling of use becomes stiff before the makeup is finished. In addition, the first application is transferred to the powder has a disadvantage that it is difficult to evenly make up the entire face.

In order to increase the long-term stability of the water-in-oil solid cosmetics containing such a volatile silicone oil, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-342 has developed a container that increases the sealing of the container itself to prevent volatilization of the volatile silicone oil. In addition, a method of suppressing volatilization of the volatile silicone oil itself contained in cosmetics has been developed, but the effect is insufficient.

On the other hand, the emulsified cosmetics due to the change in the external temperature, the oil in the contents is eluted to the surface flows out, or sweating occurs with the pigments are eluted, resulting in a poor appearance and has a disadvantage in many inconveniences in use.

Therefore, the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to solve the above problems, not only excellent stability against sweating phenomenon, but also when the phase change from the solid phase to the liquid phase during use, moist, very light application, in the liquid after use It is to provide a cosmetic composition excellent in the overall satisfaction with the use, such as a rapid change in phase to the powder to exhibit a powdery finish makeup effect.

In order to achieve the above technical problem, the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 2% by weight of the inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6% by weight of the organic gelling agent, 10 to 60% by weight of the oil component containing volatile oil, wax It provides a water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition containing 1.5 to 10% by weight, emulsifier 1 to 5% by weight, pigment component 10 to 50% by weight and water phase component 5 to 40% by weight.

The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention forms a gel emulsion structure by simultaneously using an inorganic gelling agent and an organic gelling agent in a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic using oil, pigment component, water phase component, emulsifier, etc. As a result, phase changes from the liquid phase to the powder may occur. That is, before use, it is easy to carry and use because it has a solid appearance, and when used, the gel emulsion structure is distorted and changed into a liquid state, so it is excellent in moistness and spreadability. Excellent makeup effect.

Since the gel emulsion structure of the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is also a solid matrix structure, the content of wax can be minimized, and the usability is greatly improved. In addition, the sweating to lower the stability of the cosmetic is caused by the difference in volume expansion according to the temperature between the wax and oil, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention can minimize the use of the wax to minimize the sweating. This means that the stability is very good.

The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention may be applied to various products such as lipstick, eye shadow, powder foundation, stick foundation, and the like.

Hereinafter, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention will be described in detail.

The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is based on the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 2% by weight of the inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6% by weight of the organic gelling agent, 10 to 60% by weight of the oil component containing volatile oil, wax 1.5 To 10% by weight, 1 to 5% by weight of emulsifier, 10 to 50% by weight of pigment component and 5 to 40% by weight of water phase component.

Since the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is much easier to maintain the solid state by the interaction of the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling agent contained, it is possible to reduce the content of the wax contained in the cosmetic composition for the purpose of maintaining the solid state Can be. This results in a much larger shear thinning effect, which is very beneficial for improving the feel. In addition, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention, which contains both an inorganic gelling agent and an organic gelling agent, has an organic / inorganic gel emulsion structure having a buffering action, and thus oil (especially at a high temperature) is released from the oil. Sweating can also be reduced. This improves overall stability. In addition, as described above, the phase change from the solid shape to the liquid phase is remarkably caused by the organic / inorganic gel emulsion structure, thereby providing a superior texture and a good visual effect to the consumer.

It is preferable that the inorganic gelling agent contained in the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is excellent in the sheer thinning effect. For example, the inorganic gelling agent may be gelling ability such as quaternium-18 hectorite, montmorillonite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, magnesium aluminium silicate, stearalconium bentonite, etc. Hydrogel and / or lipophilic clay-based inorganic gelling agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof. In consideration of the overall physical properties and usability of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, it is more preferable to use quaternium-18 hectorite, montmorillonite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite and quaternium-18 bentonite, Most preferred are hectorite and bentonite.

The inorganic gelling agent of the present invention is preferably contained 0.1 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content is less than 0.1% by weight, the shear thinning effect is relatively small. In other words, the change from solid phase to liquid phase does not occur relatively clearly. This results in poor applicability. If the content exceeds 2% by weight, the fluidity is relatively low during the preparation of the cosmetic composition.

In addition, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0.1 to 6% by weight of an organic gelling agent based on the total weight of the composition.

Examples of the organic gelling agent include sorbitan sulfate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, hardened castor oil, stearic acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, sorbide fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, text. Lean Fatty Acid Ester, Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (&) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyltrimethicone (&) Dimethicone / phenylvinylmethicone Crosspolymer , Isodecane (&) vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, or the like can be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof. Considering the overall physical properties and usability of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, sorbitan sulfate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, hardened castor oil, stearic acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, sorbide fatty acid ester and sorbitan It is more preferable to use fatty acid esters, and most preferred are solantanate and octadecyl stearate. The organic gelling agent includes, of course, an organic gelling agent containing a metal such as aluminum stearate, magnesium stearate and the like.

The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0.1 to 6% by weight of an organic gelling agent. If the content is less than 0.1% by weight, the stability of the composition is relatively low. In other words, sweating may occur due to external temperature changes (especially at high temperatures). If the content exceeds 6% by weight, the degree of solidification becomes relatively strong. Because of this, it is difficult to change the phase from the solid phase to the liquid phase, and thus the application of the skin is poor.

In the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention, the less the organic gelling agent is used based on the inorganic gelling agent, the lower the stability of the composition. Therefore, considering the stability and usability of the composition, the content ratio (a: b) of the organic gelling agent (a) and the inorganic gelling agent (b) contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 0.5: 1 to 60: 1. Preferably, the content ratio is more preferably 3: 1 to 15: 1.

On the other hand, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 10 to 60% by weight of the oil component containing a volatile oil based on the total weight of the composition. Oils include cetylethylhexanoate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, isoethylethylhexanoate, distearylmaleate, triethylhexanoin, squalane, caprylic capric triglyceride, pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate Caprate, Hexyllaurate, Dimethyl Polysiloxane, Methyl Phenyl Polysiloxane, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Liquid Lanolin, Olive Oil, Avocado Oil, Jojoba Oil, Macadamia Oils and the like can be used.

Volatile oils among the oil components contained in the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention further promote the phase change from the liquid state to the powder after use. That is, the cosmetic composition of the present invention, which is in a solid phase, is phase-changed into a liquid phase upon application, and then the phase change from the liquid phase to the powder is promoted by volatilization of the aqueous phase component and the volatile oil. This has the advantage of eliminating the need for separate makeup such as powder and fact. Therefore, it is preferable to use volatile oil alone or a mixture of volatile oils in non-volatile oils as oils. Silicone oils may be used as volatile oils. Most preferably, phosphorus cyclomethicone is used.

It is more preferable that the content of the nonvolatile oil is smaller than the content of the volatile oil among the oil components containing the volatile oil. If the content of the nonvolatile oil is higher, the phase change from the above liquid to the powder is relatively low. This lowers the feeling of use such as powdery feeling.

In addition, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a wax. Waxes are generally used to solidify or gloss cosmetics. Vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax and rice wax; Animal waxes such as beeswax and lanolin; Mineral waxes such as ozokerite and ceresin wax; And petroleum waxes such as paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax and the like.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the wax is preferably at least one ester wax that is solid at 25 ° C, and ceresin wax or candela wax may be used.

In the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the wax is preferably 1.5 to 10% by weight. If the content of the wax is less than 1.5% by weight, the solid formability is relatively lowered. If the content of the wax is more than 10% by weight, it is difficult to change the phase from the solid phase to the liquid phase, resulting in poor applicability and sweating.

In addition, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 1 to 5% by weight of an emulsifier based on the weight of the composition. Emulsifiers may be used ionic or nonionic surfactants commonly used in cosmetics. Anionic surfactants such as higher alkyl sulfate ester salts, alkyl ether sulfate ester salts, higher fatty acid amide sulfonates, alkyl benzene sulfonates, N-acyl glutamate salts and higher fatty acid ester sulfonates; Cationic surfactants such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt, dialkyldimethyl ammonium salt, alkyl pyridinium salt, alkyldimethyl benzyl ammonium salt, alkylamine salt, polyamine fatty acid derivative and amyl alcohol fatty acid derivative; Amphoteric surfactants such as imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants and betaine-based amphoteric surfactants; And sorbitan fatty acid esters, glycerin polyglycerin fatty acids, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, glycerine alkyl ethers, polyoxy alkylene modified silicones, alkylpolyoxy alkylene bimodal silicones, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyls Nonionic surfactants such as ether, tetra polyoxyethylene tetra polyoxypropylene ethylene diamine condensate may be used, but are not limited thereto.

In consideration of the usability of the cosmetic composition, emulsion stability, and the like, polyoxy alkylene-modified silicone or alkylpolyoxy alkylene-modified silicone is more preferable.

In addition, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 10 to 50% by weight of the pigment component, preferably 15 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Examples of the pigment component include clay mineral powders such as titanium dioxide, fine particle titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium dioxide oxide composite, alumina, talc, mica, kaolin, barium silicate, zeolite, dolomite, synthetic mica and magnesium carbonate; Inorganic pigments such as barium sulfate, iron titanate and titanium oxide coated mica; And organic powders such as polystyrene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polyethylene powder, nylon powder, silicon powder, and the like, but are not limited thereto.

The pigment powder is more preferably hydrophobized. As the hydrophobization treatment method, a surface treatment may be performed by high viscosity silicone, an alkyl hydrogen polysiloxane may be reacted, a treatment may be performed with a cation, an anion or nonionic surfactant, or the surface may be coated with a wax. It is not.

In addition, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The water phase component is the main component that imparts a refreshing and moist feeling in the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Moisturizing agents such as betaine, butylene glycol, polyhydric alcohols, sugar and protein complexes, organic acids, organic salts, glycerin and propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or the like can be used alone or in combination with water.

Hereinafter, an Example and a comparative example are given and demonstrated in order to demonstrate this invention concretely. However, embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, the scope of the present invention is not limited by the embodiments described below.

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

Examples and fertilizer examples were prepared with ingredients and contents as described in Table 1 below. That is, according to the composition shown in Table 1 below, the raw material of 1-9 was heated and dissolved at 80-85 ° C., and then the raw material of 14-19, which is a pigment component, was added and dispersed uniformly. Thereafter, 10-13 raw materials were added and emulsified. After defoaming, the mixture was mixed with the raw material 20 to dissolve uniformly. Thereafter, it was filled in a molder and cooled at room temperature to prepare a water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition.

Hereinafter, the overall usability and stability of the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition obtained in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were evaluated. In the stability evaluation, the sweating phenomenon according to the temperature change was measured.

Usability Evaluation

50 women aged 25-45 years were divided into two groups. The cosmetic compositions prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples were appropriately distributed to each group. After using it on both sides of the face, the visual effects of phase change from solid phase to liquid phase and liquid phase to powder, spreadability, powderiness and overall satisfaction were evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown in Table 2.

Very good (◎) if it was judged that 24 or more women out of 50 women were excellent in evaluation criteria; Good if 18-23 women were judged to be excellent (○); Moderate (△) if 10-17 women are judged to be excellent; And when it was determined that 10 or more women were excellent, it was indicated as bad (x).

As can be seen from the results of Table 2, it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has superior usability than the comparative example in the phase change visual effect, application properties, powdery feeling and overall satisfaction.

Sweating occurrence evaluation

In order to evaluate the degree of sweating of the water-in-oil solid cosmetic composition prepared according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 for 24 hours at the temperature conditions described in Table 3 below according to the following visual evaluation criteria Evaluated.

Very good when there is no change in surface (?); Good (○) when only light gloss appears on the surface; Bad (Δ) when fine oil is visible on the surface; And when the oil is covered on the surface was evaluated as very bad (x).

As can be seen from the results of Table 3, it was confirmed that the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is a stable composition in which sweating is suppressed even at a high temperature by the gelling effect of the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling agent.

Example 4

To prepare a lipstick with the ingredients and contents of Table 4 below. The raw materials of 1-10 were uniformly dissolved at 75-80 ° C. Lipsticks were then prepared by uniformly dispersing by adding ingredients 10-13.

The usability and stability of the lipstick prepared in Example 4 were evaluated according to the method described above. As a result of the experiment, the lipstick prepared according to the present invention was found to have excellent stability and excellent feeling due to no sweating phenomenon.

Makeover Buried Rating

The commercially available liquid foundation and powder foundation (LANCOME ^™ , France) and the finish cosmetic effect was measured through the makeup bleeding evaluation of the present invention water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic prepared in Example 1 above. Makeup smear measurement was performed as follows. The sample was uniformly applied to the skin and then covered with a tissue and then pressed three times for 10 seconds using a 30 gf / cm 2 weight thereon. After that, the degree of buried in the tissue was measured with a colorimeter to calculate the brightness difference (ΔL). The results were photographed and shown in FIG. 1A (commercial liquid foundation), FIG. 1B (commercial powder foundation), and FIG. 1C (cosmetic composition prepared according to the present invention), respectively. The calculated brightness differences are shown in Table 5 below.

As shown in Table 5, when the makeup stains were compared with the brightness difference (ΔL), the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetics of the present invention showed very low values. This means that the finishing makeup ability of the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention is as good as commercially available powder foundation.

Dynamic Friction Coefficient Measurement

The coefficient of kinetic friction of the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition (B) of the present invention prepared in Example 1 and the cosmetic composition (A) containing no gelling agent prepared in Comparative Example 1 was measured.

Kinetic friction coefficient was used in vitro method using Vitrodyne. First, the PE film was attached to the backlight plate, and then a cosmetic composition of ² mg / cm ² was applied to the path of the cylindrical probe. The PE film was then attached to the cylindrical probe. The dynamic friction coefficient was measured using a load cell while reciprocating at a speed of 3.5 cm / s for 15 minutes. The pressing force was kept constant (150 gf) using the weight of the measurement. The results are shown in FIG.

As shown in FIG. 2, in the case of A, the dynamic friction coefficient is constant with time since the initial stress was applied, while in the case of B, the dynamic friction coefficient is largely decreased while the force is applied, and then the constant constant after that is constant. It can be seen that the dynamic friction coefficient is represented. This shows that the initial kinetic coefficient is greatly reduced by the shear thinning effect of the gelling agent, which shows that the phase change from the solid phase to the liquid phase occurs reliably.

As described above, the water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention is excellent in stability against sweating by forming an inorganic / organic gel emulsion structure, and is well moisturized due to a phase change from a solid phase to a liquid phase during use. It is very light, and the phase change from the liquid to the powder is also rapid after use, which gives a powdery finish makeup effect, and the overall satisfaction with the feeling of use is excellent.

Claims (7)

Based on the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 2% by weight of the inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6% by weight of the organic gelling agent, 10 to 60% by weight of the oil component containing the volatile oil, 1.5 to 10% by weight of the wax, 1 to 5% by weight of the emulsifier A water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition comprising a%, a pigment component 10 to 50% by weight and a water phase component 5 to 40% by weight. The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content ratio (a: b) of the organic gelling agent (a): inorganic gelling agent (b) is 0.5: 1 to 60: 1. The method of claim 1, wherein the inorganic gelling agent comprises any one selected from the group consisting of quaternium-18 hectorite, montmorillonite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite and quaternium-18 bentonite Water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition. According to claim 1, wherein the organic gelling agent is sorbitan sulfate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, hardened castor oil, stearic acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, sorbide fatty acid ester and sorbitan fatty acid ester Water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition comprising any one selected from the group consisting of. The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the oil component has a content of nonvolatile oil less than that of volatile oil. The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the wax is an ester wax which is solid at 25 ° C. The water-in-oil solid emulsion cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the pigment component is hydrophobized.

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