KR20220002298A - Cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprises (i) at least one hydrophilic property in an amount of greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. anionic associative polymers; and (ii) at least one cellulosic thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and/or make-up of a keratinous material, comprising the step of applying said cosmetic composition onto the keratinous material.

Description

Cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The skin is a barrier that protects the human body. It protects the inside of the body from physical damage (eg trauma) and biological damage (eg bacteria, viruses or fungi). The human skin includes the dermis and epidermis. The epidermis is the uppermost layer of the skin, and the epidermal layer is called the stratum corneum.

The development of formulations dedicated to skin and/or lip care and/or makeup is permanent. The formulation should exhibit satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as ease of use, and also in terms of organolepticism, such as hydration and/or moisturizing feeling after application.

For various reasons, in particular related to greater ease of use (softness, softening properties, etc.), current compositions for care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular skin, generally contain oil-in-water consisting of an aqueous dispersed continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase. It exists in the form of an (O/W) type emulsion or a water-in-oil (W/O) type emulsion consisting of an oily dispersed continuous phase and a water dispersed discontinuous phase.

Oil-in-water emulsion is the most sought-after emulsion in the cosmetic field because it contains an aqueous phase as an external phase.

In the skin care routine, cream is an essential step in skin care such as anti-aging, whitening and hydration. Efforts have also been made to incorporate active ingredients such as anti-aging agents, hydrating agents and/or skin lightening ingredients, for example, Baicalin, symwhite, and the like, into oil-in-water emulsions.

Consumers are looking for a cream that has a feeling of nutrition/efficacy and a light and refreshing skin finish. A cream with a yogurt-like texture can meet this requirement.

Currently, the yogurt-like texture of some cosmetics is mainly provided by the acrylate/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.

However, for the acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer, which provides a yogurt-like texture, the cosmetic must have a pH value of 6.0 or higher, which is baicalin, which is active at a pH of about 5.5, and active at a pH of less than 5.0. Like Simwhite, it is not suitable for many activities that show its potency at lower pH. When the pH is adjusted to a low pH value (pH<6.0), the yogurt texture cannot be obtained by the acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer.

Therefore, it is necessary to formulate a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having a yogurt-like texture even at a pH of less than 6.0.

The inventors have discovered that this need can be achieved by a unique combination of two specific polymers.

Accordingly, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase,

(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

(ii) at least one cellulosic thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may exhibit a yogurt-like texture even at a pH of less than 6.0.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention exhibits a yogurt-like texture, and has excellent cosmetic properties, particularly in moisturizing and/or softening effects of keratin materials without oiliness.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity in the range of 40-70UD (M3) when measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm by ProRheo. A viscosity in the range of 40-70UD (M3) is preferred for creams.

In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention exhibits a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.

According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and/or make-up of a keratinous material, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention onto the keratinous material.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratinous material” is intended to include human skin, mucous membranes such as lips, and nails. Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly contemplated according to the invention.

Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and the following examples.

Unless otherwise indicated below, the limits of the range of values are particularly limited in the expressions "between" and "ranging from...to...". included within the scope.

Also, as used herein, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be construed to encompass all specifically recited features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, use of the term “comprising” also discloses embodiments in which no features other than the specifically recited features are present (ie, “consisting of”).

According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase,

(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

(ii) at least one cellulosic thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Aqueous phase

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C ₂ to C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol. .

The term “polyol” is to be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (ie glycerin) and polyethylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may also include any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additives, as further exemplified below.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. .

oil phase

The cosmetic composition of the present invention includes at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase as described above.

The nature of the oil phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not important.

In particular, the oily phase comprises at least one oil.

The term oil refers to any fatty substance. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to a non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has an evaporation rate between ^{0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min.}

The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate that ^{is strictly lower than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.}

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or mixture of oils to be tested was placed on a scale placed on a scale placed in a large chamber of ^{0.3 m 3 , controlled at a temperature of 25° C.} Introduce to fire A fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent and providing ventilation with blades facing the crystallizer at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer, allowing the liquid to flow freely without agitation let it evaporate Measure the amount of oil remaining in the crystallizer at regular intervals. Evaporation rates are converted to mg of oil evaporated per unit of surface area (cm ² ) and per unit of time (minutes).

Oils suitable for the present invention are not limited and may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

The term “silicone oil” refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least an oil that is solid at room temperature (about 25° C.).

Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils.

For example, hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), Isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C ₈ -C ₁₆ branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for example liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats Parleam, squalene of synthetic or plant origin;

- triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids, which may have varying chain lengths, with glycerol, which may be linear or branched, and which may be saturated or unsaturated, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin based on heptanoic triglycerides, octanoic triglycerides and capric/caprylic triglycerides, or hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm Oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant ) oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereals (corn, wheat, barley, rye) germ oil, shea butter oil; In particular esters of fatty acids having 4 to 22 carbon atoms with octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, poly glyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

- general formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ is a branched hydrocarbon system containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms chain), for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononylisononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of an alcohol or polyalcohol, iso Propyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myri State, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl maleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate , diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids with alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate;

- C ₈ -C ₂₆ higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;

- C ₈ -C ₂₆ higher fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;

- synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms;

- silicone oils such as liquids at ambient temperature and optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxane, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl - optionally substituted with siloxysilicate, aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for example alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) optionally fluorinated or optionally substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicone; and

- mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the oil is a linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) that is liquid at ambient temperature and has the general formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ is a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms. and R ₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms).

Preferably, the oil phase is the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. present in the cosmetic composition of

hydrophilic anionic associative polymer

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer.

The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a water-soluble polymer capable of reversibly associating with other molecules or together in an aqueous medium.

Their chemical structure includes a hydrophilic region and a hydrophobic region characterized by at least one fatty chain.

The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer of the present invention is preferably obtained by copolymerization between 1) and 2):

1) at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer substituted by at least one linear or branched (C ₁ -C _{10 )alkyl group;} and

2) at least one associative monomer which is an ester of the general formula (I):

AO-(Alk-O) _z -(CH ₂ ) _w -R ^a (I)

In the above formula,

A represents an ethylenically unsaturated acyclic moiety optionally containing a further carboxyl group or a salt thereof which can be esterified with a linear or branched (C ₁ -C _{20 )alkyl group;}

R ^a represents a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₃₀ )alkyl group, an alkylaryl or arylalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, preferably R ^a is (C _{1 )} -C ₂₀ ) represents an alkyl group, an alkylphenyl or phenylalkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched;

Alk represents a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group, in particular Alk represents —CH ₂ -CH(R ^b )- (wherein R ^b is a hydrogen atom, or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) an alkyl group, for example, a methyl or ethyl group);

z is an integer inclusive between 0 and 50;

w is an integer inclusive between 0 and 30;

provided that (I) is at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH, or C(O)O ^- Q ⁺ (wherein Q ⁺ represents a cation selected from alkali metal ion, alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium) contains

Polymerization of 1) and 2) is to be understood as a copolymerization between at least one monomer 1) and at least one monomer 2).

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the copolymer is an ester of at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer of general formula (a) with general formula (I) or general formula (b) as defined above. It is obtained by polymerization between one associative monomer:

(a)

(b)

(a)

(b)

In the above formula,

R' _a and R' _b are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, preferably R' _a and R' _b represent a hydrogen atom;

_R'c and R" _c is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, a C(O)OX group, or an -alk-C(O)OX group, wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, -alk- represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group, for example a methylene group, preferably R′ _c and/or R " _c represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group;

R ₂ represents a linear or branched (C ₆ -C ₄₀ )alkyl group, preferably a (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ )alkyl group;

n is an integer between 5 and 100, in particular between 10 and 50, more particularly between 20 and 40, preferably between 20 and 30, eg 25;

provided that (a) or (b) is at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH, or C(O)O ^- Q ⁺ (wherein Q ⁺ is selected from alkali metal ion, alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium) represents a cation);

In particular, R' _a , R' _b represents a hydrogen atom, R' _c , and R" _c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal.

According to another variant, R' _a , R' _b , and R' _c represent a hydrogen atom, R"c represents a group -alk-C(O)OX, such as _{-CH 2 -C(O)OX,} Here, X is as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer contains units (A) and/or (B):

(A)

(A)

(B)

(B)

In the above formula,

R′ _a , R′ _b , R′ _c , and R″ _c are as defined above;

x preferably represents an integer greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;

y preferably represents an integer greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;

x+y preferably represents >200, more preferably an integer between 200 and 20000.

According to one preferred embodiment, the anionic associative polymer of the invention has a molecular weight greater than 100000, preferably between 200000 and 800000.

According to one preferred embodiment, in the general formulas (A) and (B), R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an alkaline earth metal.

Examples of copolymers (a)/(b) as defined above useful in the present invention include acrylate/palmet-25 acrylate copolymers, such as those commercially available ^{from the company 3V under the trade name Synthalen ® W2000.} , an acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer, for example, a product commercially available from the company Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Acylun ^{™ 28, acrylate/steareth-20 Methacrylate copolymers, such as commercially available products under the trade name Aculyn ™} 22 polymer from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical), acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymers, such as For example, a product commercially available from the company AkzoNobel under the trade name Structure 2001, an acrylate/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, e.g. from the company AkzoNobel under the trade name Structure 3001 Commercially Available Products, Acrylate/Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/Behenet-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylate/Palmet-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/Stearate -50 acrylate copolymers, acrylate/palmet-25 itaconate copolymers, for example the products commercially available under the trade name Polygel W 40 from the company Sigma-3V, and mixtures thereof. can

Among the above-mentioned hydrophilic anionic associative polymers, an acrylate/Behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer, for example, commercially available ^{from the company Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Acylun™ 28} product is preferred.

Preferably said at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.8 to 6% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. present in the composition of the invention.

Cellulose-based thickening polymer

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cellulosic thickening polymer.

Preferably, the cellulosic thickening polymer useful in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is selected from among hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl cellulose (hydroxyalkyl cellulose), carboxy (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. is chosen

More preferably, the cellulosic thickening polymer is hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, mixed (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl-(C _1- C ₄ )alkylcelluloses, for example hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose.

In some embodiments, the cellulosic thickening polymer is _{selected from hydroxy(C 1} -C ₆ )alkylcelluloses.

In one embodiment, the cellulosic thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose.

Preferably, the at least one cellulosic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. present in cosmetic compositions.

emulsifying surfactant

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant (or emulsifying agent) preferably selected from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.

For anionic emulsifying surfactants, stearic acid, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C _{Mention may be made of metal salts of 10-} C ₃₀ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acids, in particular metal stearate, and mixtures thereof.

In the case of nonionic emulsifying surfactants, for example, esters of polyols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. oxyethylenated and/or oxypropyleneated derivatives such as _{glyceryl esters of C 8} -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters of C ₈ -C _{24 fatty acids;} sugar ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include in particular glyceryl stearate (mono, di- and/or tri-glyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids, in particular polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and/or tri-stearate, polyethylene glycol), in particular polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100) stearate and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use mixtures of such surfactants, for example products containing PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate sold under the name ^{SIMULSOL 165 ®} by the company SEPPIC.

As fatty alcohol ethers, for example, polyethylene glycol and ethers of fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol and cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and ethers of stearyl alcohols) may be mentioned. Mention may be made, for example, of ethers having 1 to 200, preferably 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as the CTFA names Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof. have.

Sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers of methylglucose isostearate sold under the name ^{Isolan-IS ®} by the company Degussa Goldschmidt or under the name of ^{Crodesta F50 ® by the company Croda} sucrose distearate sold under the name RYOTO sugar ester S 1570® by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Food, and sucrose stearate sold by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Food; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG), such as decylglucoside and lauryl, for example decylglucoside and decylglucoside sold ^{by the company Henkel under the names Plantaren 2000 ®} and 1200 ^{® Plantaren, respectively;} for example, sepik in the name of Montanov 68 ^® by (Seppic) used, Goldschmidt under the name of Tegocare CG90 ^® by (Goldschmidt) used, the Seto mixed with alcohol cetostearyl in the name of Emulgade KE3302 ^® by Henkel Mention may be made of stearylglucoside and also arachidyl glucoside in the form of a mixture of arachidyl with arachidyl and behenyl alcohol sold, for example, by the company Sepix under ^{the name Montanov 202 ®.}

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from stearic acid, polyethylene glycol stearate and glyceryl stearate.

Preferably, the emulsifying surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

active ingredient

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may include at least one active ingredient for care and/or makeup of keratin materials commonly used in the cosmetic field.

As active ingredients, mention may be made of sunscreens, vitamins, emollients, hydrating agents, whitening agents, peeling agents and the like.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter as an emollient.

The amount of active ingredient can be conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

additive

In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology.

Examples of additives that may be mentioned include preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, fragrances, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid), and mixtures thereof.

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more preservatives.

Suitable preservatives include glycerin-containing compounds (eg glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzo ate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. One or more preservatives may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenism, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydro Acetic acid, quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite , sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (various), lactic acid, and vitamin E (tocopherol).

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fillers.

Suitable fillers include, but are not limited to, natural, inorganic or organic origin, natural or synthetic origin to provide oil absorption or optical effects. Oil-absorbing fillers can impart a matte effect and a non-greasy feel to the skin. Optical effect fillers can impart a soft focus/haze/blur effect to the skin, give the skin a more even appearance, reduce the appearance of skin blemishes or discolorations, or reduce the visibility of pores.

Examples of oil absorbing fillers include mica, Zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium Silicate, pumice stone, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silicate, dimethicone/vinyl Mention may be made of dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxymethyl starch.

As examples of optical effect fillers, mention may be made of bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium (and) iron oxide, sodium potassium aluminum silicate.

Examples of fillers that provide both oil absorption and optical effects include silica, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) dimethicone, polysilicon-22, polysilicon-8, polysilicon-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer. , polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene/acrylic Late copolymers may be mentioned.

These additives are used in a conventional proportion in the cosmetic field, for example, 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and are introduced into the aqueous phase or oil phase of the composition according to their properties.

These additives and their concentrations should be such that they do not alter the desired properties for the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase,

(i) acrylate/palmet-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-, in an amount ranging from 1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition 20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/behe Net-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmet-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/palmet-25 itaconate copolymer, and their at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from mixtures; and

(ii) It relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cellulosic thickening polymer selected from _{hydroxy (C 1 -C 6} )alkylcellulose in an amount ranging from 0.25 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Methods and uses

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is for topical application and may constitute a composition for caring for and/or making-up, in particular for keratin materials, in particular for human skin.

Accordingly, in another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for the care and/or makeup of a keratinous material, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention onto the keratinous material.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity in the range of 40-70UD, which is preferred for creams.

Viscosity is measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from ProRheo.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a texture like yogurt.

Yogurt rheological properties are determined by visually observing whether the tested cosmetic composition is flat and shiny when stored in a container, and has a texture similar to thick yogurt when scooped out with a spoon. If the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when stored in a container, and has a texture similar to thick yogurt when the cosmetic composition is scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition is considered to have a yogurt-like texture.

The cosmetic composition according to the formulation of the present invention also exhibits a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples set forth below, which are provided by way of non-limiting illustration.

Percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient or active substance.

In the following examples, weight percentages are expressed with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Example

Example 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention and comparative formulation examples

Cosmetic compositions according to the present invention formulation examples (inv.) 1-3 and comparative formulation examples (comp.) 1-2 described in the table below were prepared:

phase INCI name Inv.1 Inv.2 Inv.3 Com.1 Comp.2 Wt.% A Water (EAU DESIONISEE MICROBIOLOGIQUEMENT PROPRE from USINE L'OREAL)
74.86
74.86
74.86
74.86
74.86 A Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (NATROSOL PLUS 330 CS from ASHLAND)
0.25
0.75
0.5 IOTA Carrageenan (SATIAGEL VPC 508 from CARGILL)
0.25 Polyacrylamide (SEPIGEL 305 from SEPPIC)
0.25 A Phenoxyethanol (SEPICIDE LD from SEPPIC)
0.40
0.40
0.40
0.40
0.40 A Chlorphenesin (COSVAT L from CLARIANT)
0.24
0.24
0.24
0.24
0.24 A Glycerin (ECOCEROL from ECOGREEN OLEOCHEMICALS)
7.00
7.00
7.00
7.00
7.00 B Isononyl Isononanoate (WICKENOL 151 from ALZO)
3.00
3.00
3.00
3.00
3.00 B Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (SIMULSOL 165 from SEPPIC)
1.75
1.75
1.75
1.75
1.75 B Butyrospermum Parqui (Shea) Butter (LIPEX 102 from AARHUSKARLSHAMN)
3.00
3.00
3.00
3.00
3.00 B Stearic acid (PALMERA B1802CG from KLKOLEO)
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00 D Acrylate/Behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer (ACULYN 28 from ROHM AND HAAS (DOW CHEMICAL))
1.50
One
1.25
1.5
1.5 E Polysilicon-11 (GRANT INDUSTRIES from GRANT INDUSTRIES)
5.00
5.00
5.00
5.00
5.00 E Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 10CS from TORAY (DOW CORNING))
2.00
2.00
2.00
2.00
2.00 H Sodium hydroxide (CAUSTIC LYE from GUJARAT ALKALIES AND CHEMICALS)
0.33
0.33
0.33
0.33
0.33

Manufacturing process:

The cosmetic compositions listed above are prepared as follows:

1. Solubilize phase A (aqueous phase) with a homogenizer and heat to 60°C;

2. Heat phase B (oil phase) to 60°C;

3. Introduce phase B into phase A and maintain homogenization at 60° C. for 10 minutes to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion;

4. Add phase D (acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer) to the emulsion and homogenize for 10 minutes;

5. Change the homogenizer to a disperser to cool the emulsion to room temperature and continue stirring;

6. Premix phase E (silicone) and then introduce phase E under stirring at room temperature;

7. Adjust the pH value of the formulation to 5.5 with phase H.

Example 2: Evaluation of cosmetic compositions of the present invention and comparative formulation examples

The viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and the comparative formulation example prepared in Example 1 was measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rp from ProRheo.

After 24 hours of formulation, the yogurt rheological properties are determined by visually observing whether the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when stored in a container, and whether the cosmetic composition has a texture similar to thick yogurt when scooped out with a spoon. . If the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when stored in a container, and has a texture similar to thick yogurt when the cosmetic composition is scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition is considered to have a yogurt-like texture.

The viscosity and yogurt-like texture properties of the cosmetic compositions according to the formulation examples of the present invention and the comparative formulation examples are summarized below:

formulation Viscosity (M3)/UD Whether the texture is like yogurt Inv.1 51.3*/45.0** Y Inv.2 61.5/60.5 Y Inv.3 58.0/66.5 Y Comp.1 29.9/19.9 N Comp.2 39.6/30.0 N

*: a value read at 30 seconds from the start of the test, **: a value read at 10 minutes from the start of the test.

It can be seen that the cosmetic composition according to the comparative formulation does not have a yogurt-like texture and is not suitable for cream because the viscosity is too low.

On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a yogurt-like texture and has a desirable viscosity.

According to a consumer test targeting 20 women aged 20-40 years, the cosmetic composition according to the formulation of the present invention exhibits a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process when applied.

Claims (15)

As a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase,
(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and
(ii) at least one cellulosic thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition
A cosmetic composition comprising a.
According to claim 1,
The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is a copolymer obtained by polymerization between at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer of the general formula (a), and at least one associative monomer of the general formula (b) A cosmetic composition selected from:

(a)

(b)
In the above formula,
R′ _a and R′ _b are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group;
_R'c and R" _c is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, a C(O)OX group, or an -alk-C(O)OX group, wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, -alk- represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group, preferably R′ _c and/or R″ _c represents a hydrogen atom or methyl represents a group;
R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group;
R ₂ represents a linear or branched (C ₆ -C ₄₀ )alkyl group, preferably a (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ )alkyl group;
n is an integer inclusive between 5 and 100;
provided that (a) or (b) is at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH, or C(O)O ^- Q ⁺ (wherein Q ⁺ is selected from alkali metal ion, alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium) represents a cation).
According to claim 1,
The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is a cosmetic composition containing units (A) and/or (B):

(A)

(B)
In the above formula,
R′ _a and R′ _b are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group;
_R'c and R" _c is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group, a C(O)OX group, or an -alk-C(O)OX group, wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, -alk- represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group, preferably R′ _c and/or R″ _c represents a hydrogen atom or methyl represents a group;
x represents an integer between 100 and 10000;
y represents an integer between 100 and 10000;
x+y represents an integer between 200 and 20000.
According to claim 1,
The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is acrylate/palmet-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth -20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/behenette-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ A composition selected from palmet-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/palmet-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4,
The at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of 0.8 to 6% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably 1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. cosmetic composition.
6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
The cellulose-based thickening polymer is hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₆ ) A cosmetic composition selected from alkyl cellulose (hydroxyalkyl cellulose), carboxy (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6,
The cellulose-based thickening polymer is hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, mixed (poly) hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl - (C _1- C ₄₎ A cosmetic composition selected from alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.
8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7,
The at least one cellulosic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition present in
9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8,
Preferably, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.
10. The method of claim 9,
The emulsifying surfactant of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 1.5 wt% to 8 wt%, more preferably from 2 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition A cosmetic composition present in the cosmetic composition.
11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10,
A cosmetic composition further comprising at least one active ingredient for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials.
12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11,
The aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12,
The oil phase is contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition that exists.
A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase,
(i) acrylate/palmet-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/behenette-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-, in an amount ranging from 1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition 20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/behe Net-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmet-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/palmet-25 itaconate copolymer, and their at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from mixtures; and
(ii) at least one cellulosic thickening polymer selected from _{hydroxy (C 1 -C 6} )alkylcellulose in an amount ranging from 0.25 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition
A cosmetic composition comprising a.
15. A cosmetic method for the care and/or makeup of a keratinous material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 on the keratinous material.