KR20210109937A - Manufacturing method for won-sam collar - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a collar applied to ceremonial robe, which provides a process of manufacturing a ceremonial robe collar by folding a fabric in half and arranging the seam allowance without forming a sheath of scissors in a process of cutting and arranging the collar. According to the present invention, a manufacturing process is simplified and there is an aesthetically excellent effect.

Description

Manufacturing method of raw samgit {MANUFACTURING METHOD FOR WON-SAM COLLAR}

The present invention relates to clothing manufacturing, and more particularly, to a method for manufacturing a collar applied to raw ginseng.

Wonsam usually refers to the ceremonial clothes worn by women during the Joseon Dynasty. The name of this Wonsam comes from the round front collar, and it is characterized by the open side. The long length that covers the knees, the front is short and the back is long. The front fastening is a joint, and it is common to have an incision on both sides.

The origin and origin of the raw ginseng can be roughly summarized into three categories.

First, Dansam (團衫), which was bought in the Ming Dynasty, is the origin of Wonsam (圓衫). The second is that Hwansu (N袖衣) of Su (隋) and Tang (唐) became Wonsam (圓衫) through Jangsam (long ginseng). Third, the view that Wonsam originated from baeja (褙子) originated from the long-sleeved Chinese long-sleeved baeja (long-sleeved baeja), rather than the current short sleeveless baeja (褙子).

The above is the opinion presented in relation to the origin of Wonsam in the royal court, and there is also the opinion of Eunju Lee that the sagyusam type Wonsam in private houses originated from the system of Yeomui. In addition, the possibility that two or more factors of the above-mentioned hypotheses acted in combination cannot be excluded.

First, the hypothesis that dansam (團衫), which died in the Ming dynasty, is the origin of Wonsam (圓衫) was presented in previous studies by Ko Bok-nam and Ko Gwang-rim, and this study also appears to be the most grounded argument. .

Second, there is an opinion that Hwansoo (N袖衣) of Su (隋) and Tang (唐) became Wonsam (圓衫) through Changsam (long ginseng).

Third, there is an opinion that Jangsu-baeja became Wonsam (圓衫).

Wonsam, worn for ceremonial occasions, was a very important attire as a mourning dress for women who were getting married not only during the funeral ceremonies, but also during the wedding ceremony (嘉禮). If we look at the wedding attire shown in the Garye Dogam Uigwe (嘉禮都監儀軌) or 『Gungjung Igyo』 by status, it can be seen that the queen and the crown prince, the highest female status of the royal family, wore red robes during garye. have. And most of the royal family members, such as concubines and princes' wives, princesses, and princesses, were able to wear robe (露衣) and long sam (long sam) as their ceremonial clothes.

'A Study on the Origin and Transitional Process of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty' (Gachon University 2012, Im Hyeonju) provides a historical study of Wonsam, and Fig.

There are some attempts to reproduce such raw ginseng in modern times, and it is understood that the general method is to put a clip of scissors in the seam allowance where the curve returns to and to produce raw ginseng.

However, in this case, it is difficult to make a smooth curve and small wrinkles are generated, which is not aesthetically pleasing.

The present invention has been devised to overcome the problems of the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing a raw samgit with a high degree of completeness while being able to implement it in an elegant form.

The present invention for solving the above problems includes the steps of folding and ironing up and down along the fold line, marking the guide lines on the outer collar and the inner collar, spaced apart from the guide line of the collar head to form a groove 1110 and cut the ends The step of withdrawing from the fold line part, the step of making the time needle in the folded state, the step of cutting the part other than the seam allowance of the fabric to arrange the inner seam allowance 1210 and the outer seam allowance 1220, the outer seam allowance by folding the inner seam allowance in the outer circumferential direction Including the steps of folding and ironing in the inner circumferential direction, and inverting the outer fabric to expose the outside, in the process of arranging the outer seam allowance, pulling the end of the grooved part to arrange the curve of the outer edge of the collar. to provide.

As an embodiment, the first area of the area adjacent to the fold line and the second area of the curved area of the collarbone and the third area of the straight line connecting the rounded area are divided, and the width of the first area is set to 0.5 cm. , it is preferable to determine the width of the second region to be 0.2 cm and the width of the third region to be 1.0 cm.

According to the present invention, since the incision of the conventional seam allowance is removed and the curve of the feather head is processed by using the difference in thickness and the tension of the thread, the manufacturing process is simplified and there is an aesthetically excellent effect.

1 is a view showing the worldly wife Won-sam shown in Sangrye Eonhae.
2 is a view for explaining a process of forming a Won Samgit according to the present invention.
3 is a view for explaining the process of forming the finished collar by arranging the seam allowance of the original samgit.
4 is a flow chart showing the method for manufacturing a raw samgit according to the present invention.

Hereinafter, with reference to the accompanying drawings will be described in detail the manufacturing method of a preferred embodiment according to the present invention.

However, the embodiments described below are merely for explaining in detail enough that a person of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention pertains can easily implement the invention, which limits the protection scope of the present invention. doesn't mean

The present invention proposes a process of manufacturing a raw samgit in a way of arranging a seam allowance without forming a sheath of scissors in the process of folding the fabric in half and arranging the cutting and quills.

If the concept of the present invention is applied, the size or proportion is not limited by the embodiment of the present invention. In addition, various modern materials as well as traditional materials such as burlap may be applied.

2 is a view for explaining a process of forming a Won Samgit according to the present invention.

In the process of folding and cutting the overall rectangular fabric 1001, a circular samquit can be manufactured. In the illustrated state, the circular samgit is derived from a 'U' shape by folding a rectangular shape with rounded corners as a whole.

Here, the directions are defined from the far end to the inside and outside of the rectangular closed curve.

Figure 2 (a) shows the fabric 1001 is arranged in a state in which the outer surfaces face each other as a state in which the fabric 1001 is folded up and down. The portion exposed to the front is the outer collar 1010 of the portion disposed inside when forming the finished collar, and the opposite portion becomes the inner collar 1020.

The fabric 1001 is folded in half at the fold line 1030, which is the longitudinal centerline, and ironed to display the guide line 100 in the folded state. The guide line 100 may be formed by drawing along the periphery through a relatively hard member, and may be performed by making a mark with the tip of a needle. Various methods of drawing a cut line or a temporary line may be applied to the display of the guide line 100 .

Figure 2 (b) shows the process of grooving after the guide line 100 is marked as described above, and the grooving part 1110 is formed outside the collar head. The groove 1110 performs a function of making a shape when forming an outer seam allowance, and a related description will be given later. Accordingly, the grooved portion 1110 is preferably formed in a round shape on both sides, and the ends 1111 extending from the upper and lower two parts are drawn out from the side meeting the fold line 1030 as shown. Accordingly, a total of four ends 1111 are exposed on both sides.

The grooved portions 1110 are formed to be spaced apart from each other by a predetermined distance on the outside of the feather head, and the spacing is preferably 0.2 cm.

In FIG. 2(c), when the grooving part 1110 is made as described above, the hour hand 1002 is performed while the outer collar 1010 and the inner collar 1020 are placed on their backs, and the seam allowance of the collar head is cut. This incision is made on the inner side of the guide line 100 on the inner periphery of the circular samgyet to form a seam allowance, which is defined as the inner seam allowance 1210 . The thickness of the inner seam allowance 1210 may be formed differently for each part, which will be described later. In addition, the portion to be incised at the outer edge of the original sambal is the outer seam allowance 1220 .

3 is a view for explaining the process of forming the finished collar by arranging the seam allowance of the original samgit.

Now, in a state where the seam allowance is left and the groove 1110 remains as described above, the process of completing the circle samgit by folding the seam allowance will be described.

3 (a) is a state in which the outer collar 1010 and the inner collar 1020 are unfolded, and the inner and outer seam allowances are completed to show the inner seam allowance 1210 and the outer seam allowance 1220.

In the present invention, since no cut line is formed at the seam allowance, a change in seam allowance width is required for the seam seam of the curve.

In consideration of this, the inner seam allowance 1210 is a third region ( 1213) can be distinguished. The width of the second region 1212 is preferably smaller than the width of the first region 1211 and the third region 1213 , and in consideration of completeness, the third region 1213 is smaller than the width of the first region 1211 . may have a greater width.

As a preferred embodiment, the width of the first region 1211 may be 0.5 cm, the width of the second region 1212 may be 0.2 cm, and the width of the third region 1213 may be 1.0 cm. However, it goes without saying that the width may be determined differently depending on the size or ratio.

In addition, the width of the outer seam allowance 1220 may be 0.7 cm. Here, the outer seam allowance 1220 may be formed to have a uniform width, because the groove 1110 functions to create a curved shape.

Referring to (b) of FIG. 3 , the seam allowance is completed by ironing while bending the inner collar toward the outer collar at the inner seam allowance 1210 .

In the case of the outer seam allowance 1220, the seam allowance is evenly distributed so that angles and wrinkles do not occur while pulling the end 1111 of the grooving part 1110 so that a round treatment is possible in the collar region, and ironing is performed.

When the inner seam allowance 1210 and the outer seam allowance 1220 are completed in this way, it is reversed so that the outer fabric 1040 is exposed to the outside as shown in FIG.

The raw ginseng collar is combined with the neck edge of the raw ginseng to complete the garment, and known methods may be applied to this binding relationship.

4 is a flow chart showing the method for manufacturing a raw samgit according to the present invention.

Referring to the description of the above drawings, the preparation is started by folding along the folding line 1030 in the folding and ironing (S110) process. Accordingly, the guide line 100 is displayed (S120) by placing a mold or the like.

As described above, in the state where the guide line is displayed, the process (S130) of forming a groove 1110 for the collar part is performed by unfolding it again, and at this time, the upper and lower ends 1111 are exposed at the fold line 1030 part to expose the edge of the collar head. It performs the function of providing tension when forming a round of

Referring to (c) of FIG. 3 , the hour hand 1002 is made in the folded state along the fold line 1030 ( S140 ), and the seam allowance arrangement ( S210 ) of cutting the remaining portion of the seam seam portion is performed. In this case, the inner seam allowance 1210 and the outer seam allowance 1220 have different widths for each or each part, and overlapping descriptions in this regard will be omitted.

When the seam allowance is prepared as described above, the seam seam folding and ironing (S220) is performed, and in the case of the inner seam allowance 1210, the curve is smoothly processed through the difference in width, and in the case of the outer seam allowance 1220, the thread of the groove 1110 It is processed gently during the process of stretching while applying tension to it.

When the seam allowance is completed as described above, the outer fabric 1040 is reversed and exposed (S230), and the production of the original samgit is completed.

As described above, the original sambar produced according to the concept of the present invention removes the incision of the conventional seam allowance and processes the curve of the collar by utilizing the difference in thickness and the tension of the thread, thereby simplifying the manufacturing process and at the same time It has great aesthetic advantages.

In the above, the present invention has been described in detail based on the embodiments and the accompanying drawings. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited by the above embodiments and drawings, and the scope of the present invention will be limited only by the contents described in the claims described below.

How to make raw samgit
100...Guidelines
1001...Fabric
1010...
1020...
1030...Fold Line
1040... Outer
1110...grooving part
1111...the end
1210...Inside seam allowance
1211...First Area
1212...Second area
1213...The third area
1220...outer seam allowance

Claims (2)

a) folding up and down along the fold line and ironing;
b) displaying guide lines on the outer collar and inner collar;
c) forming a groove 1110 by being spaced apart from the guide line of the feather head, and withdrawing the end from the fold line;
d) basting in the folded state;
e) arranging the inner seam allowance 1210 and the outer seam allowance 1220 by cutting a portion other than the seam allowance of the fabric;
f) folding the inner seam allowance in the outer circumferential direction and ironing the outer seam allowance in the inner circumferential direction;
g) inverting the outer fabric to expose it to the outside; including,
Step e) is,
In the process of arranging the outer seam allowance, a method of manufacturing a round sam feather that straightens the curve of the outer edge of the collar by pulling the end of the grooved part.
According to claim 1,
Step e) is,
The first area of the area adjacent to the fold line and the second area of the curved area of the feather head and the third area of the straight line connecting the rounded area are divided, and the width of the first area is 0.5 cm, and the width of the second area is 0.5 cm. A method of manufacturing a round samgit in which the width is 0.2 cm and the width of the third region is determined to be 1.0 cm.

Images