KR20210047427A - Cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing comprising Mixed extract of Moutan radiciscortex and fermentation - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a technology which provides an optimal composition ratio of a fermented Moutan radiciscortex root extract in a cosmetic composition for skincare to maximize a moisturizing effect and provides the fermented Moutan radiciscortex root extract obtained by applying the technology as a cosmetic raw material applied to various formulations such as oil-in-water emulsion formulations, gel formulations, and the like. According to the present invention, a skin moisturizing cosmetic composition for skincare using a fermented Moutan radiciscortex root extract comprises: 0.001 to 5 wt% of the fermented Moutan radiciscortex root extract; 6 to 8 wt% of glycerin; 4 to 6 wt% of isopropyl isostearate; 2 to 4 wt% of beeswax; 1 to 3 wt% of niacinamide; 0.5 to 1 wt% of sorbitan stearate; 0.5 to 1 wt% of polysorbate 60; 0.3 to 0.6 wt% of glyceryl stearate SE; 0.3 to 0.6 wt% of ceresin; 0.3 to 0.6 wt% of ethylhexanediol; 0.1 to 0.3 wt% of polyacrylate-13; 0.1 to 0.2 wt% of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; 0.1 to 0.2 wt% of hydrogenated lecithin; 0.1 to 0.2 wt% of glyceryl caprylate; 0.08 to 0.1 wt% of tocopheryl acetate; 0.04 to 0.1 wt% of adenosine; 0.01 to 0.03 wt% of 1,2-hexanediol; 0.01 to 0.03 wt% of allantoin; 0.001 to 0.002 wt% of ethylhexylglycerin; and the rest of purified water.

Description

Cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing comprising Mixed extract of Moutan radiciscortex and fermentation

The present invention relates to a moisturizing cosmetic composition for improving skin using a peony root fermented extract, and in particular, a cosmetic composition-related technology comprising the peony root fermented extract in an amount of 0.001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

When the present technology is applied and the peony root ferment extract is contained in the cosmetic composition in the range of 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the peony root fermented extract, moisturizing for skin improvement using the peony root fermented extract The cosmetic composition brightens the skin tone by inhibiting'tyrosinase', which causes the skin to darken by adding moisturizing effect to the skin, inhibiting the production of antioxidants and melanin, and protects the skin from attack by harmful substances from the external environment. It is a completed invention by confirming that it can provide a soothing effect on sensitive skin, preventing wrinkles from being formed.

The present invention is a technology related to a moisturizing cosmetic composition for improving skin using a peony root fermented extract.

In general, the skin is composed of cells, and the cells are structured to be protected by the cell membrane, so if the cell membrane is damaged, the cells suffer structural and functional damage, and the skin damage and aging progress rapidly. As we age, changes occur due to various internal and external factors, internally, the secretion of various hormones that regulate metabolism decreases, and the function and activity of immune cells decrease, resulting in weakened immunity. .

In addition, human skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays more frequently due to the destruction of the ozone layer, and it is exposed to blue light, which is a high-energy visible light that is frequently generated in electronic devices such as TVs, PCs, and mobile phones for a long time, and air pollution. As free radicals and active harmful oxygen increase, skin wrinkles increase, skin elasticity decreases, and spots, freckles, and age spots tend to increase.Therefore, methods for overcoming skin aging are currently available. It is being studied in various ways.

The most important function of the epidermis, located at the outermost part of human skin, is to protect against various external stimuli, such as chemicals, air pollutants, dry environments, and physical and chemical irritants such as ultraviolet rays, and skin. It has a protective function to prevent excessive dissipation of water in the body through, and this protective function can be maintained only when the stratum corneum composed of keratinocytes is normally formed.

According to the literature (J. Invest. Dermatol. 1983; 80: 44-49), the outermost stratum corneum (horney layer) among the epidermis is formed from keratinocytes, and the differentiated keratinocytes and the lipid layer surrounding it are formed from keratinocytes. The keratinocytes are characteristic cells that rise to the skin surface through phased morphological and functional changes in the basal cells that continuously proliferate in the lowermost layer of the epidermis. New keratinocytes are eliminated from the skin and take over their functions. This repetitive process of change is called "epidermal cell differentiation" or "keratinization".

During the keratinization process, the keratinocytes form a stratum corneum while generating natural moisturizing factors (NMF) and intercellular lipids (ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids), making the stratum corneum firm and flexible, thereby making the skin barrier (skin barrier). It has the function as a barrier).

However, such stratum corneum can easily lose or damage its function due to excessive cleansing, lifestyle factors such as bathing, environmental factors such as dry air, pollutants, and endogenous diseases such as atopic skin or senile skin. In recent years, when various hazards have actually increased, the number of people complaining of symptoms of dry skin and all kinds of disorders caused by it is increasing.

Therefore, in order to maintain proper skin moisture, a lot of research has been conducted to supply moisture from the outside or to prevent moisture loss from the body, and in fact, various types of moisturizers with moisture retention ability have been developed and presented. It is mainly used in the cosmetic field.

Meanwhile, in recent years, the cosmetic industry has been banned from the use of animal ingredients that can cause mad cow disease due to the effect of mad cow disease. Therefore, many studies are being conducted to use herbal extracts as cosmetic ingredients. Looking at the actual situation, a moisturizing agent is also obtained from vegetable ingredients and is a technology to be used in cosmetic compositions, and Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1724147 aims to suppress and relieve itching. In the cosmetic composition for, a cosmetic composition for suppressing and alleviating itching containing as an active ingredient a herbal extract including centella asiatica extract, golden extract, chamomile extract, magnolia peel extract, green tea extract, tangerine extract and parsley extract as an active ingredient, and containing purified water in the balance As an active ingredient, it contains herbal extracts having effects such as soothing, itching, and improving skin, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-atopic properties, so it is effective in improving sensitive skin and is hypoallergenic to the skin. For this reason, cosmetic compositions that can prevent allergic reactions and alleviate or improve skin problems such as itchiness, inflammation, erythema, and skin damage have been mentioned and suggested.

In addition, as a cosmetic composition for exfoliating skin, including herbal extracts, in Patent No. 10-1724146, herbal extracts including centella extract, golden extract, chamomile extract, licorice extract, green tea extract, hojanggeun extract and parsley extract are active ingredients, and , A cosmetic composition for exfoliating the skin containing the remainder of purified water, including herbal extracts, to remove dead skin cells and control the cycle without irritation to sensitive skin, and at the same time promote skin soothing and moisturizing action to more effectively normalize the skin. Cosmetic compositions that can be mentioned have been outlined and presented.

Peony root extract (Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract) is an extract obtained by purifying the roots of peonies and is also used as a preservative component. -2008-0098925 (published on November 12, 2008) proposes a cosmetic composition excellent in skin aging prevention effect by extracting the active ingredient from the mokdan skin so that it contains a high concentration of phosphorus polymer. Various extraction methods are disclosed in the manufacture of cosmetic compositions, including useful ingredients contained in other parts of the peony, and these are distilled and removed by using various organic solvents harmful to the human body for extraction to increase extraction efficiency. Even a small amount of residue may remain and be harmful to the skin, but as in this application, Mokdanskin extract is used, but through a fermentation process using complex lactic acid bacteria and koji bacteria, natural ingredients are effectively extracted without the use of harmful organic solvents to safely moisturize the skin. 'Trocinase','Collagenase' and'Elastase', which darken the skin by inhibiting the production of antioxidants and melanin. Matrix Metalloprotease), makes skin tone brighter, protects the skin from attack by harmful substances in the external environment, prevents wrinkles, and provides a soothing effect to sensitive skin. However, conventional natural moisturizers such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na) and sodium lactate have strong electrolytic properties, which makes it difficult to maintain stability in the formulation, and raw materials extracted from natural products have insignificant effects or Another problem has occurred, such as stability and side effects due to skin irritation.

In the meantime, as interest in anti-aging increases with the development of cosmetic technology and medicine in recent years, anti-aging cosmetics that prevent aging and whitening cosmetics that whiten the skin are on the rise. In particular, many researchers are concerned with anti-aging. Not only that, but it is also of interest to the general public. Skin aging progresses through complex stages of morphological and chemical changes of the skin. It is largely divided into endogenous aging and exogenous aging, and the main cause of exogenous aging is ultraviolet rays. , When the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated by absorption of ultraviolet rays by photosensitizers (porphyrin, riboflavin, etc.) in vivo.

These reactive oxygen species are generated through various processes including high-energy radiation, photosensitization and several enzyme reactions, causing oxidative stress on cells, causing damage such as cleavage of collagen and elastin molecules in the skin, leading to wrinkle formation. , DNA damage and activity, affects melanocytes, increases the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis.

In addition, the clinical signs associated with photoaging are dyspigmentation, wrinkles, and malignant tumors.These changes include frekles, solar lentigo, pigmented, and solar keratosis. ) Appear as degenerative chronic changes, including skin cancer.

Melanin that causes this phenomenon in the skin forms pigments with dendritic cells present in the basal layer of the epidermis, and UV or melanocyte stimulatin hormon (MSH), agout signal protein (ASP), endithelin 1 (ET1), dickkopf 1 (DKK1) It responds to a wide range of changes in internal and external factors such as various cytokines and growth factors.

Melanin is a phenolic biopolymer material that is widely distributed in nature. It is a complex of black pigment and protein. In melanocytes, tyrosine, a kind of amino acid, is used as a precursor. It changes to 5,6-dihydroquinone (Indole-5,6-dihydroquinone), and the polymer of indole-5,6-dihydroquinone (Indole-5,6-dihydroquinone) is melanin.

The main mechanisms of melanogenesis are the proliferation of melanocytes and an increase in tyrosinase enzyme activity. By this enzyme, tyrosine is converted into 3,4-dihydroxy-phenylalanine (DOPA) and DOPA quinone to synthesize red eumelanin and brown pheomelanin.

Key factors involved in melanin biosynthesis include tyrosinase, dopachrome conversion factor, prostaglandin (PG), interferon (IFN), melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH), vitamin D3, and histamine.

According to a recent report, when culturing melanocytes or S91 mouse melanoma cells, UVB irradiation induces neo-synthesis of melanin, which means that UV directly induces melanosenesis and increases tyrosinase activity and expression. do.

Among these signaling systems, two of the most widely studied so far are a pathway that activates PKA of melanosyte such as α-MSH, ACTH, and PGE2, and a PKC-dependent pathway.

In the case of the human body that oxidizes itself, it has an antioxidant mechanism in the body, such as vitamin E that prevents oxidation of other substances, and SOD that removes peroxide in the body, but this mechanism does not prevent all oxides, so that function will be added. There is a need for a substance that has an antioxidant activity that can be used.

Currently, melanin biosynthesis inhibitors are actively being developed, and there is a report that when a substance having antioxidant activity is applied, melanin synthesis is inhibited by returning oxidized melanin to a reduced form and preventing oxidation.

The tyrosinase inhibitors known so far include resorcinol, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisole, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, glucosamine, oxyreseveratrol, viniferin, and ferulic acid. Is used in limited amounts as a whitening additive. Therefore, the development or research of functional products derived from natural products has been continuously conducted in recent years.

The elasticity of the skin is handled by the extracelluar matrix (ECM) component of the dermal tissue, and ECM is largely composed of two components. One is elastic fibers that account for about 2-4% of the entire ECM, and the other is collagen, which accounts for about 70-80% of the entire ECM.

Elastic fibers are in the form of microfibrils embedded in an amorphous substrate called elastin, and elastin is found only in elastic fibers called desmosine and isodesmosine derived from lysine. It is a protein composed of unique amino acids.

These desmosin and isodesmosin form cross-links in long peptide chains, and this structure gives elastin a rubber-like property.

In addition, elastic fibers composed of elastin exist together with collagen fibers called collagen, and skin elasticity can be maintained in a state in which elastin and collagen are sufficiently present.

The decrease in skin elasticity is caused by the decrease or destruction of collagen and elastin production caused by aging or ultraviolet rays. In particular, collagen and elastin normally generated in the skin are decomposed due to the expression of matrix metalloprotease with substrate metals such as collagenase and elastase, resulting in reduced skin elasticity.

Various substances have been developed and used for the purpose of suppressing the reduction of collagen and elastin, which is the cause of this decrease in elasticity, and retinoids such as retinol and retinoic acid show elasticity improvement effects (Dermatologytherapy, 1998, 16, 357?364). ), the protein fraction obtained from Leguminosae Seeds exhibits an elasticity enhancing effect (U.S. Patent No. 5,322,839), and a composition containing malt extract, etc. is applied to inhibit collagenase. Yes (Japanese Patent No. 5,105,693). However, these retinoids have the disadvantage that irritation appears even if only a small amount is applied to the skin, and most of the raw materials derived from natural products have been used in the form of simple extracts, and it is not known exactly what substances the efficacy of the extracts is due to. It has been recognized as a task to be solved to overcome the limitations difficult to continuously maintain and control the activity of the extract.

Peony (Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews) is a shrub with leaves of the peony family, and its height is 1 to 2m, and it is cultivated in various places except Hamgyeongbuk-do in Korea. The leaves are alternate, and it is a pinnate compound leaf of 3 times.

Small leaves are egg-shaped or egg-shaped lanceolate, 5-10cm long, with fine hairs on the back side and white, and one white or red purple flower blooms at the end of a new branch in May. The diameter of the flower is 10 to 17cm, 5 to 8 petals hang, the petals are inverted oval, with irregular serrations at the edge, many stamens, 3 to 5 pistils, and the ovary is surrounded by a flower sill, and the fruit is It is an egg-shaped large fruit, with yellow brown short hairs densely formed, ripens in October, and the inside is split vertically.

On the other hand, peonies are also called Mokdan, and the peony root bark is also called Mokdanpi, and it is also called Danpi, Gowang, Gosang, Baekyangkim, Mokjeok, Peony, Peony Root.

Peony roots are known to have pharmacological actions such as pain relief, sedation, antipyretic, anticonvulsant, anti-inflammatory, antithrombotic, anti-allergic, gastric secretion, uterine mucosal congestion, and antibacterial action. Nol and its glycosides, especially peonol, are mostly only in the roots of peonies and not in the stems and flowers. The name peony root extract refers to a natural substance extracted from the roots of peonies.

The extract of peony root has antioxidant effect, anti-inflammatory effect, skin aging effect, melanin production inhibitory effect, moisturizing effect, etc. In addition, analgesic, soothing, antipyretic, anticonvulsant, anti-inflammatory, antithrombotic, antiallergic, gastric juice secretion It is known to have pharmacological effects such as inhibition, uterine mucosal congestion, and antibacterial action.

Peonol (paeonol) and its glycosides (paeonoside), peonolide (paeonolide), peoniflorin (paeoniflorin) is contained in the bark of peonol. Pheonol is a phenolic compound, Alzheimer's symptoms It has been reported to have an improvement effect, anti-mutagenic activity, and a myocardial infarction relief effect. In particular, peoniflorin is reported to be effective in improving skin wrinkles.

In view of the characteristics of the peony root as described above, the inventors of the present invention believe that the peony root extract exhibits anti-inflammatory and endoceline activity inhibitory effects, and the formation of endoceline, a signaling material in skin cells, is inhibited by the peony root extract, thereby preventing melanocytes. Formation is reduced, and the activity of tyrosinase, a melanin synthase, is inhibited by the upper limb extract in the formed melanocytes, thereby reducing melanin formation.The peony root extract among natural plants has an antioxidant effect, anti-inflammatory effect, anti-aging effect on the skin, There are also pharmacological effects such as analgesic, sedative, antipyretic, anticonvulsant, anti-inflammatory, antithrombotic, antiallergic, gastric secretion suppression, uterine mucosa congestion, and antibacterial action. Peonol (paeonol) and its glycosides (paeonoside), peonolide (paeonolide), and peoniflorin (paeoniflorin) are contained in the root bark of peonol, which is a phenolic compound, which improves Alzheimer's symptoms It is reported to have effects, anti-mutagenic activity, and myocardial infarction alleviation effect. In particular, peoniflorin is a natural product using a fermentation method using the roots of peony (Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews), which is reported to be effective in improving skin wrinkles. Through research to use this as a raw material for cosmetics, the present invention has been completed.

The present invention uses a peony root extract, but uses complex lactic acid bacteria and koji bacteria to moisturize the skin through a fermentation process, inhibits antioxidant and melanin production, and darkens the skin by'Trocinase' and collagenase. Substrate metals such as collagenase and elastase suppress the expression of protease to brighten the skin tone, protect the skin from the attack of harmful substances from the external environment, prevent the formation of wrinkles, and are sensitive. It is provided to give a soothing effect to the skin in a condition, such as dry air, environmental factors such as pollutants including fine dust, lifestyle factors such as excessive washing or bathing, and endogenous diseases such as atopic skin or senile skin. Therefore, it has an object to provide a moisturizing cosmetic composition for improving skin that can stably protect the skin by moisturizing the skin with a reduced function as a barrier.

In addition, the present application maximizes the moisturizing effect by providing the optimum composition ratio of the fermented peony root extract in the moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement, and the fermented peony root extract obtained by applying the technology of the present invention is formulated in an oil-in-water emulsion, a gel formulation. It also has the purpose of providing it as a cosmetic raw material that is applied to various formulations such as.

The present technology is a means to stabilize and safely use the golden fermented extract as described above. Among the moisturizing cosmetic compositions for skin improvement, peony root fermented extract 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, glycerin 6 to 8.0% by weight, isopfil isostearate 4 ~6.0% by weight, 2 to 4.0% by weight of beeswax, 1 to 3.0% by weight of niacinamide, 0.5 to 1.0% by weight of sorbitan stearate, 0.5 to 1.0% by weight of polysorbate 60, 0.3 to 0.6% by weight of glyceryl stearate SE %, ceresin 0.3-0.6% by weight, ethylhexanediol 0.3-0.6% by weight, polyacrylate-13 0.1-0.3% by weight, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/behenes-25 methacrylate crosspolymer 0.1 ~0.2% by weight, hydrogenated lecithin 0.1~0.2% by weight, glyceryl caprylate 0.1~0.2% by weight, tocopheryl acetate 0.08~0.1% by weight, adenosine 0.04~0.1% by weight, 1,2-hexanediol 0.01~ It is a technology to provide a moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement that is provided including a peony root fermented extract consisting of 100% by weight filled with 0.03% by weight, 0.01 to 0.03% by weight of allantoin, 0.001 to 0.002% by weight of ethylhexyl glycerin and 100% by weight of the remaining purified water. .

The peony root fermented extract used in the present technology is the first fermentation step, by mixing 30 to 40 parts by weight of peony root and 60 to 70 parts by weight of purified water, wet heat treatment at 80±10°C for 1 to 2 hours, and then 0.5 to 5 citric acid. 3 to 7 parts by weight of glucose and 3 to 7 parts by weight of brown sugar are sequentially added, stirred/dissolved, and 1 to 5 parts by weight of yeast are inoculated based on 100 parts by weight of the dissolved slurry, and 5 to 7 at 32 to 40°C The first step of fermenting for a day to obtain a primary organic acid fermentation product of pH 2.5 to 4.0, inoculating 3 to 5 parts by weight of complex lactic acid bacteria, and fermenting at 28 to 35°C for 4 to 6 days to obtain a second fermented product of lactic acid bacteria. ,

As a second extraction step, a second step of adding 200 to 400 parts by weight of ethyl alcohol to 100 parts by weight of the fermented product in which the first step was performed, and extracting for 20 to 30 hours at 40 to 45°C,

After filtering the extract from which the second process was performed in the third filtration and sterilization step, vacuum distillation under the conditions of 50°C or less, concentrated into a 30-50% solution of the active ingredient of peony root fermentation, and the concentrated solution was sealed at 105± It is applied to use the peony root fermented extract obtained through the third process of sterilizing for 1 to 3 minutes in an autoclave maintained at 5℃.

In addition, the complex lactic acid bacteria spores used in the first step are Lactobacillus sp., Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus Brebis CD2, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus hilgardii, Lactobacillus mali, Lactobacillus nagelii, Lactobacillus plantarium, Lactobacillus reuteri Lactobacillus Lactobacillus Rhamnosus), Lactobacillus satsumensis, Lactobacillus Thermophilus, Bacillus sp., Bacillus amylolyticus, Bacillus cereus, Bacillus cereus Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus polymyxa, Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus sterothemophilus, Bifidobacterium sp. Bifidobacterium Bifidum, Bifidobacterium Breve, Bifidobacterium Infantis, Bifidobacterium Logum, and other Geobacillus stearomer fillers Seeds selected from one or more of Zeobacillus sterothemophilus and Zygosaccharomyces bisporus It can be applied to be used, and the yeast used in the first process is characterized in that Aspergillus nicer NRRL 2322 (ATCC 10577) is applied to be used.

In addition, the present application is in the manufacturing method of the peony root fermented extract to obtain the raw material used in the skin improvement moisturizing cosmetics, the first fermentation step by mixing 30 to 40 parts by weight of peony root and 60 to 70 parts by weight of purified water to 80 ± 10 ℃ After wet heat treatment within the range for 1 to 2 hours, 0.5 to 5 parts by weight of citric acid, 3 to 7 parts by weight of glucose, and 3 to 7 parts by weight of brown sugar are sequentially added and stirred/dissolved. ~5 parts by weight of inoculation and fermentation at 32 to 40°C for 5 to 7 days to obtain a primary organic acid fermentation product of pH 2.5 to 4.0, inoculation of 3 to 5 parts by weight of complex lactic acid bacteria, and 4 to at 28 to 35°C. 200 to 400 parts by weight of ethyl alcohol was added to 100 parts by weight of the fermented product in which the first step was performed as a first step of fermentation for 6 days to obtain a second fermented lactic acid bacteria, and 40 to 45 Since the second process of extracting for 24 hours at ℃ condition is included and applied, it is characterized by a technology to obtain a peony root fermented extract for skin improvement moisturizing cosmetics and use it in cosmetic compositions.

The fermented extract of peony root of the present invention has more excellent efficacy in inhibiting the expression of tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase compared to general simple extracts. In addition, it was found that the skin elasticity improvement through the complex synergistic effect by activating the active ingredient through the complex fermentation and extraction process was also superior to that of the simple extract.

Therefore, the present invention moisturizes the skin by containing the peony root fermented extract in the cosmetic composition, inhibits the expression of tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase, which darkens the skin by inhibiting the production of antioxidants and melanin. It brightens and clears the skin tone, protects the skin from the attack of harmful substances from the external environment such as dry air, pollutants including fine dust, etc., and damages the normal sebum membrane and active ingredients of the skin in removing contaminants from the skin. It provides a soothing effect to sensitive skin while minimizing irritation to the skin, and provides an elasticity improvement effect by preventing the generation of wrinkles due to skin aging with an antioxidant effect, and lifestyle habits such as excessive cleansing or bathing. It provides the effect of stably protecting the user's skin by moisturizing the skin, which has a reduced function as a barrier due to urea and endogenous diseases such as atopic skin or senile skin.

The moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement using the peony root fermented extract according to the present invention is a technology to be applied by containing 0.001 to 2.0% by weight of the peony root fermented extract based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. More preferably, the peony root fermented extract 0.001 To 1.5% by weight, optimal (Best) embodiment is a technology for providing a moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement by containing in the cosmetic composition in the range of 0.01 to 0.2% by weight of the peony root fermented extract.

Hereinafter, a moisturizing cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail.

The fermented extract of peony root moisturizes our skin and makes the skin darker. It is a substrate metal such as tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase to express the expression of matrix metalloprotease. Helps to brighten the skin tone by suppressing it, and in addition to this, it protects the skin from attack by harmful substances from the external environment. Paeonol and peoniflorin, one of its glycosides, prevents the formation of wrinkles, and Other flavonoid-based ingredients known as main medicinal ingredients are Baicalin, Baicalein, and Wogonin. The main flavonoids of these peony roots are antioxidant and melanin. It is a technology to use the production inhibition properties.

The above-described peony root fermentation extract can be used by being contained in 0.001 to 5.0% by weight of the total composition of the moisturizing cosmetic of the present invention.If it is less than 0.001% by weight, a distinct skin whitening and anti-aging effect could not be expected, and more than 5.0% by weight. When contained, the whitening and anti-aging effects are no longer improved due to weight increase, so it is preferable to be used in the above range.

Hereinafter, for example, a detailed configuration for providing a moisturizing cosmetic composition using a peony root fermented extract according to the present invention is a peony root fermented extract 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, glycerin 6 to 8.0% by weight, isoppil isostearate 4 to 6.0 wt%, beeswax 2 to 4.0 wt%, niacinamide 1 to 3.0 wt%, sorbitan stearate 0.5 to 1.0 wt%, polysorbate 60 0.5 to 1.0 wt%, glyceryl stearate SE 0.3 to 0.6 Wt%, ceresin 0.3 to 0.6 wt%, ethylhexanediol 0.3 to 0.6 wt%, polyacrylate-13 0.1 to 0.3 wt%, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/behenes-25 methacrylate crosspolymer 0.1 to 0.2 wt%, hydrogenated lecithin 0.1 to 0.2 wt%, glyceryl caprylate 0.1 to 0.2 wt%, tocopheryl acetate 0.08 to 0.1 wt%, adenosine 0.04 to 0.1 wt%, 1,2-hexanediol 0.01 A peony root fermented extract consisting of ~0.03% by weight, 0.01 to 0.03% by weight of allantoin, 0.001 to 0.002% by weight of ethylhexyl glycerin and 100% by weight of the remaining purified water was confirmed. Representative examples of the best mode are representative examples of one embodiment for implementing the present technology while experiencing numerous trial errors, and the present technology is not limited to the representative examples, and the scope described in the claims It is natural that it should be protected from.

Representative Example 1 for obtaining a peony root fermented extract

1. 2kg of peony root and 3Kg of purified water were mixed, and wet heat treatment was performed at 80°C for 60 minutes while stirring at low speed.

2. In the gastric juice, 50 g of citric acid, 250 g of glucose and 250 g of brown sugar were sequentially added and dissolved by stirring, and 1 to 5 parts by weight of Nuruk bacteria Aspergillus nicer NRRL 2322 (ATCC 10577) were added to 100 parts by weight of the dissolved slurry. After inoculation and fermentation at 32-40° C. for 5 days, a primary organic acid fermentation product having a pH of about 2.5-4.0 was prepared.

3. A commercial product Probio-25 (*KBM Fine Chemical Complex Lactobacillus), 3 to 5 parts by weight, was inoculated into the organic acid fermented product, and fermented at 28 to 35°C for 5 days to prepare a secondary lactic acid fermentation product.

4. 300 parts by weight of Ethyl Alcohol was added to 100 parts by weight of gastric juice, and extracted for 24 hours at 40-45° C. by low-speed stirring in an extractor equipped with a sealed stirrer or a cooling condenser.

5. The solution after fermentation and extraction was filtered through a 10-micrometer-diameter Cross Flow Filteration for elaborate filtration to clarify the solution.

6. The above solution was distilled under vacuum under reduced pressure at 50° C. or lower to concentrate the active ingredient or solid content into a 30-50% solution.

7. The concentrated solution was sterilized for 1-2 minutes in an airtight high-pressure (105° C. 1 atmosphere) sterilizer, and then packaged as a raw material.

In addition, as an example of application of the complex lactic acid spores used herein, Probio-25 (KBM Fine Chemical-produced complex lactic acid spores) was used, and the probio-25

1) Lactobacillus sp., Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus Brebis CD2, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus hilgardi, Lactobacillus hilgardii, Lactobacillus mali, Lactobacillus nagelii, Lactobacillus plantarium, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus Rhamnocillus sassus Lactobacillus satsumensis), Lactobacillus thermophilus, etc. 11 species are contained,

2) Bacillus sp., Bacillus amylolyticus, Bacillus cereus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus polymyxa, Bacillus subtilis (Bacillus subtilis), Bacillus sterothemophilus, etc. 6 species have been identified,

3) Bifidobacterium sp., Bifidobacterium Bifidum, Bifidobacterium Breve, Bifidobacterium Infantis, Bifidobacterium 4 species including Bifidobacterium Logum

4) Two species were identified, including Zeobacillus sterothemophilus and Zygosaccharomyces bisporus, and a total of 23 types of complex lactic acid bacteria were used.

The present invention is peony root fermented extract 1.0% by weight and glycerin 7.0% by weight, isopfil isostearate 5.0% by weight, beeswax 3.0% by weight, niacinamide 3.0% by weight, sorbitan stearate 0.8% by weight, polysorbate 60 0.8 wt%, glyceryl stearate SE 0.5 wt%, ceresin 0.5 wt%, ethylhexanediol 0.48 wt%, polyacrylate-13 0.24 wt%, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/behenes-25 methacra Ilate crosspolymer 0.15% by weight, hydrogenated lecithin 0.15% by weight, glyceryl caprylate 0.12% by weight, tocopheryl acetate 0.1% by weight, adenosine 0.04% by weight, 1,2-hexanediol 2.0% by weight, allantoin 0.01% by weight %, 0.15% by weight of ethylhexyl glycerin and 100% by weight of the remaining purified water were filled to obtain a moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement, comprising a fermented extract of peony root.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on the following Comparative Examples, Examples and Test Examples. However, these Comparative Examples, Examples, and Test Examples are only intended to aid understanding of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Comparative Example 1

Preparation of peony root extract

Put 1Kg of finely crushed dry peony roots into 5ℓ of 80% ethanol aqueous solution, and treat it at 60-65℃ for 24 hours in an extractor equipped with a reflux condenser. After that, the residue and filtrate were separated through filter cloth filtration and centrifugation. The resulting filtrate was vacuum-distilled to extract peony roots and concentrated into a 20-30% solution of the active ingredient, and the concentrated solution was sterilized for 1 to 3 minutes in an autoclave maintaining 105±5℃ in a sealed state to obtain peony root extract. It was used as a sample.

Test Example 1: Elastase expression inhibition efficacy measurement

The ability of the peony root and the fermented extract of the peony root obtained from Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 to inhibit elastase production was measured by comparing with tocopherol.

5,000 cells/well of human fibroblasts were placed in a 96-well microtiter plate containing DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Media) medium containing 2.5% fetal bovine serum. Put as much as possible, and incubated until about 90% growth. Thereafter, the culture was cultured in a serum-free medium for 24 hours, and the golden and golden cloth extracts of Comparative Examples 1 and 1 dissolved in the serum-free medium, and tocopherol were treated at a 10 molar concentration for 24 hours, and then the cell culture solution was collected. .

Using a commercially available elastase measuring instrument (Amersham Pharma, USA) was used to measure the degree of elastase production of the collected cell culture solution. First, the collected cell culture solution was added to a 96-well plate uniformly coated with the primary elastase antibody, and the antigen-antibody reaction was performed in a thermostat for 3 hours. After 3 hours, the secondary elastin antibody to which the chromophore was bound was added to a 96-well plate and reacted for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, a color-producing substance was added to induce color development at room temperature for 15 minutes, and when the color development reaction was stopped by adding 1M sulfuric acid again, the color of the reaction solution became yellow, and the degree of yellow was different depending on the progress of the reaction.

The absorbance of a yellow 96-well plate was measured at 405 nm using an absorbance meter, and the expression level of elastase was calculated by Equation 1 below, and the results are shown in Table 1 below. Indicated. At this time, the reaction absorbance of the cell culture solution collected from the group not treated with the composition was used as a control.

Equation 1

Elastase expression level (%) = (absorbance of material-treated cell group / absorbance of control group) × 100

division Untreated group Tocopherol Comparative Example 1 Example 1 Elastase expression level (%) 100 88 90 59

As shown above, the elastase expression inhibitory effect of the golden poje extract according to the present invention is more effective through the fact that the elastase expression level of Example 1 in vitro is lower than that of the golden extract Comparative Example 1. Good can be confirmed.

In addition, it can be seen that the effect of inhibiting elastase expression of the extract of the peony root porcelain according to the present invention is superior to that of tocopherol compared to tocopherol, which is known as an elastase expression inhibitor.

Test Example 2: Collagenase (MMP-1) inhibitory ability

The ability of the fermented extracts of peony roots obtained from Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 to inhibit collagenase production was measured by comparing them with retinoic acid.

5,000 cells/well of human fibroblasts in a 96-well microtiter plate containing DMEM (Dulbecco??s Modified Eagle??s Media) medium containing 2.5% fetal calf serum. Then, it was incubated in a CO2 5%, 37°C incubator until it grew about 70-80%. Thereafter, the peony root and peony root poje extract of Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 were treated at a molar concentration of 10-4 for 24 hours, and then a cell culture solution was collected.

A commercially available collagenase measuring instrument (Amer Sham Pharma, Catalog #: RPN 2610) was used to measure the level of collagenase production in the collected cell culture solution. First, the collected cell culture solution was added to a 96-well plate uniformly coated with the primary collagenase antibody, and the antigen-antibody reaction was performed in a thermostat for 3 hours. After 3 hours, the secondary collagen antibody to which the chromophore was bound was added to a 96-well plate and reacted for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, add a color developing substance (3,3,5,5-tetramethylbenzidine,sigma) to induce color development at room temperature for 15 minutes, and then add 1M-sulfuric acid to stop the color reaction, and the color of the reaction solution becomes yellow. The degree of yellow was different depending on the degree of reaction progress.

The absorbance of a yellow 96-well plate was measured at 405 nm using an absorbance meter, and the degree of synthesis of collagenase was calculated by Equation 2 below, and the results are shown in Table 2 below. Indicated. At this time, the reaction absorbance of the cell culture solution collected from the group not treated with the composition was used as a control.

Equation 2

Collagenase expression level (%) = (absorbance of material-treated cell group / absorbance of control group) × 100

division Untreated group Retinoic acid Comparative Example 1 Example 1 Collagenase expression level (%) 100 73 90 61

As shown above, the collagenase expression inhibitory effect of the extract of peony root porcelain according to the present invention through the fact that the collagenase expression level of Example 1 in vitro was lower than that of Comparative Example 1 of the peony root extract. Was found to be better, and it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of collagenase expression of the extract of peony root poje according to the present invention is superior to that of retinoic acid.

Through these results, it can be confirmed that the extract of peony root poje according to the present invention has an effect of inhibiting protease (MMP-1) with a substrate metal.

Test Example 3: Checking the effect of improving skin elasticity

In order to check the skin elasticity enhancing effect, a cosmetic composition was prepared in the composition of Table 3 below using the peony root fermented extract obtained in Comparative Examples 1 and 1, and were carried out as Examples 2, 3, and 4, containing the peony root fermented extract. Cosmetics that are not used were prepared as a control group as Comparative Example 2.

Representative Examples 2, 3, and 4 of the preparation of a moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement using the fermented peony root extract of the present application and Comparative Example 1 without the addition of fermented peony root extract

ingredient Comparative Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 content(%) Purified water 76.964 76.954 76.864 74.964 glycerin 7.000 7.000 7.000 7.000 Isopropyl
Isostearate 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 Peony Root Ferment Extract 0.000 0.01 0.100 2.000 Beeswax 3.000 3.000 3.000 3.000 Niacinamide 2.000 2.000 2.000 2.000 Sorbitan stearate 0.800 0.800 0.800 0.800 Polysorbate60 0.800 0.800 0.800 0.800 Glyceryl stearate-SE 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 Ceresin 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 Ethylhexanediol 0.480 0.480 0.480 0.480 Polyacrylate-13 0.245 0.245 0.245 0.245 ※ One 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 Glycerylcaprylate 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 Tocopheryl acetate 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 Adenosine 0.040 0.040 0.040 0.040 1,2-hexanediol 2.000 2.000 2.000 0.020 Allantoin 0.010 0.010 0.010 2.000 Ethylhexyl glycerin 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 Sum 100.000 100.000 100.000 100.000

※ 1: Ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/Behenes-25 methacrylate crosspolymer

In order to compare the skin elasticity improvement effect of the lotion of Comparative Example 2 and Examples 2 to 4, a target of 80 women in their 30s to 40s was measured by dividing 20 into 4 groups as one group. same.

To each bath, the lotion of Comparative Example 2 and Examples 2 to 4 was divided, and a certain amount was applied to the eye area once a day for 12 weeks. At this time, the lotion of Comparative Example 2 was applied to both sides of the eye area of the subjects of Group 1, the lotion of Comparative Example 2 was applied to the left side of the eye area of the remaining group 2, 3, and 4 subjects, and the lotion of Examples 2 to 4 was applied to the right. I made it. After 12 weeks, the skin elasticity of each group was measured and averaged using a cutometer (SEM474, Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH.Germany) that can measure skin elasticity, and the results are shown in Table 4 below. I got it.

division Comparative Example 2 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Skin elasticity improvement (%) 39 45 56 69 Comparison improvement rate (%) 0 15 44 77

Looking at the results of Table 4, when the lotion of Examples 2 to 4 containing the peony root fermented extract according to the present invention was used, the degree of improvement of skin elasticity compared to Comparative Example 2 not containing the peony root fermented extract. It can be seen that it appears as high as 15-77%, and in particular, it can be seen that the degree of improvement is greatly increased depending on the amount of the peony root extract added.

Therefore, it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition containing the fermented extract of peony root of the present invention was very effective in improving skin elasticity, and based on the experimental results, a patent application was reached.

Claims (5)

In the moisturizing cosmetic composition for improving skin provided including a peony root fermented extract,
Peony root fermentation extract 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, glycerin 6 to 8.0% by weight, isopfil isostearate 4 to 6.0% by weight, beeswax 2 to 4.0% by weight, niacinamide 1 to 3.0% by weight, sorbitan stearate 0.5 ~1.0% by weight, 0.5~1.0% by weight of polysorbate 60, 0.3~0.6% by weight of glyceryl stearate SE, 0.3~0.6% by weight of ceresin, 0.3~0.6% by weight of ethylhexanediol, 0.1~ of polyacrylate-13 0.3% by weight, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/behenes-25 methacrylate crosspolymer 0.1-0.2% by weight, hydrogenated lecithin 0.1-0.2% by weight, glyceryl caprylate 0.1-0.2% by weight, Toco Peryl acetate 0.08 to 0.1% by weight, adenosine 0.04 to 0.1% by weight, 1,2-hexanediol 0.01 to 0.03% by weight, allantoin 0.01 to 0.03% by weight, ethylhexyl glycerin 0.001 to 0.002% by weight and 100% by weight of the remaining purified water A moisturizing cosmetic composition for improving skin provided including fermented extract of peony root consisting of% The method of claim 1,
The peony root fermentation extract is a first fermentation step by mixing 30 to 40 parts by weight of peony root and 60 to 70 parts by weight of purified water, wet heat treatment at 80±10° C. for 1 to 2 hours, and then 0.5 to 5 parts by weight of citric acid and 3 to 7 parts by weight of glucose and 3 to 7 parts by weight of brown sugar are sequentially added, stirred/dissolved, and 1 to 5 parts by weight of yeast are inoculated based on 100 parts by weight of the dissolved slurry, and fermented at 32 to 40°C for 5 to 7 days. A first step of obtaining a primary organic acid fermentation product having a pH of 2.5 to 4.0, inoculating 3 to 5 parts by weight of complex lactic acid bacteria, and fermenting at 28 to 35°C for 4 to 6 days to obtain a second fermented product of lactic acid bacteria;
As a second extraction step, a second step of adding 200 to 400 parts by weight of ethyl alcohol to 100 parts by weight of the fermented product on which the first step was performed, and extracting for 20 to 30 hours at 40 to 45°C,
In the third filtration and sterilization step, the extract from which the second process was performed is filtered and distilled under vacuum under conditions of 50°C or lower, concentrated to a 30-50% solution of the active ingredient fermentation of rice germ, and the concentrated solution is sealed in a sealed state. A moisturizing cosmetic composition for skin improvement, characterized in that applied so that the fermented extract of peony root obtained through a third process of sterilizing for 1 to 3 minutes in an autoclave maintaining ±5°C is used. The method of claim 2,
The complex lactic acid bacteria spawns used in the first process are Lactobacillus sp., Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus Brebis CD2, Lactobacillus casei, and Lactobacillus casei. Bacillus hilgardii, Lactobacillus mali, Lactobacillus nagelii, Lactobacillus plantarium, Lactobacillus hilgardii, Lactobacillus reuteri Rhamnosus), Lactobacillus satsumensis, Lactobacillus Thermophilus, Bacillus sp., Bacillus amylolyticus, Bacillus cereus, Bacillus cereus Bifidobacterium sp., Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus polymyxa, Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus sterothemophilus, Bifidobacterium sp. Bifidobacterium Bifidum, Bifidobacterium Breve, Bifidobacterium Infantis, Bifidobacterium Logum, and others Geobacillus stearomerphilus (Zeobacillus sterothemophilus), Zygosaccharomyces bisporus A moisturizing cosmetic composition for improving skin, characterized in that. The method of claim 2,
The yeast used in the first step is Aspergillus nicer NRRL 2322 (ATCC 10577), characterized in that applied to be used for skin improvement moisturizing cosmetic composition. In the method for producing a peony root fermented extract to obtain a raw material used in a moisturizing cosmetic for skin improvement,
In the first fermentation step, 30 to 40 parts by weight of peony root and 60 to 70 parts by weight of purified water are mixed and wet heat treated at 80±10° C. for 1 to 2 hours, and then 0.5 to 5 parts by weight of citric acid and 3 to 7 parts by weight of glucose, 3 to 7 parts by weight of brown sugar are sequentially added, stirred/dissolved, 1 to 5 parts by weight of koji bacteria are inoculated based on 100 parts by weight of the dissolved slurry, and fermented at 32 to 40°C for 5 to 7 days to have a pH of 2.5 to 4.0. A first step of obtaining a fermented product of organic acid, inoculating 3 to 5 parts by weight of complex lactic acid bacteria and fermenting at 28 to 35°C for 4 to 6 days to obtain a second fermented product of lactic acid bacteria;
As the second extraction step, 200 to 400 parts by weight of Ethyl Alcohol is added to 100 parts by weight of the fermented product in which the first step was performed, and a second step of extracting for 20 to 30 hours at 40 to 45°C is applied. Method for producing a peony root fermented extract for skin improvement moisturizing cosmetic, characterized in that the.