KR20190030190A - Cosmetic Composition of Multiple Ceramides Scattered in Amphiphilic Solvent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having various ceramide particles dispersed on an amphiphilic solvent, which has excellent effects of skin moisturizing, skin elasticity, skin regeneration, and alleviation of an atopic disease. The cosmetic composition comprises heterogeneous ceramides, a stabilizer and an amphiphilic solvent.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing multiple ceramide particles dispersed in an amphiphilic solvent,

This application claims the benefit of priority based on Korean Patent Application No. 10-2017-0117027, filed September 13, 2017, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in which a plurality of ceramide particles are dispersed on an amphipathic solvent.

The skin is largely composed of three layers of epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous fat. The stratum corneum on the outermost surface of the skin acts as a barrier to protect the body from external stimuli. The stratum corneum is composed of several layers of flattened keratinized cells, and the keratin fiber protein fills the keratinocytes, forming a lamellar structure in which the intercellular lipids fill the keratinocytes.

Such a skin layer structure inhibits moisture evaporation of the skin, protects the human body from external stress or stimulation, and has a problem that it is difficult to absorb the effective ingredient of the cosmetic for skin improvement. Specifically, the intercellular lipids covering the keratinocytes are composed of ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. These components are linearly connected in the stratum corneum and can effectively prevent external substances, There is a problem that it interferes with.

For this reason, it is important to develop an active ingredient which is capable of sufficiently exhibiting the original defensive function of the skin and enhancing the transdermal absorption rate of the active ingredient so that the effective ingredient is effectively absorbed into the skin even without damaging the skin cells. .

Ceramide, one of the intercellular lipids, constitutes more than 40% of the lipids in the skin, and is an important ingredient in preventing moisture loss in the skin and maintaining skin elasticity. Recognizing this importance, in the cosmetics industry, it is necessary to load ceramide or ceramide-like components into cosmetics and to effectively absorb the loaded active ingredients into the skin in order to effectively compensate for lost or damaged ceramides by effectively absorbing the ceramide ingredients to the skin .

For example, a method of loading liposomes or emulsions for transdermal absorption of ceramides has been used. However, when the various ceramides are incorporated in one cosmetic, the ceramides having different structures are difficult to form stable liposome formulations, or the interface is unstable depending on the structure of the ceramide in the emulsion. It is difficult to load a large amount of ceramide in cosmetics.

Specifically, ceramides basically have alkyl chains of different lengths on the basis of sphingolipid structures, or have a slightly different structure depending on the kind of ceramide having different functional groups. For example, in the case of ceramide 1, Chain alkyl chain linked with an ether group, whereas the ceramide 3 has an alkyl chain having less than 30 carbon atoms, and the liposome formulation contains heterogeneous ceramides ), There is a problem that the liposome has an unstable structure so that only a small amount of liposome is loaded. In the case of loading heterogeneous ceramide into the emulsion formulation, there is a problem that the interface of the emulsion is destroyed. As a result, as a conventional method of loading ceramides, it was impossible to load a large amount of ceramides into one cosmetic material.

Therefore, in order to sufficiently replenish the various kinds of ceramides constituting the skin with one cosmetic, there is a need for a technique of stably incorporating many kinds of ceramides into cosmetics in a large amount and improving the percutaneous absorption rate of various ceramides so as to be effectively absorbed to the skin .

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and the technical problems required from the past.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that not only exerts an effect of moisturizing the skin and enhancing skin elasticity but also has a high water absorption rate in the transdermal layer by loading a large amount of ceramide having a different structure into one cosmetic composition.

Accordingly, in order to accomplish the above object, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises heterogeneous ceramides; Stabilizers; And an amphipathic solvent.

The heterogeneous ceramide may be at least two selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6, ceramide 7, ceramide 8 and ceramide 9.

The heterogeneous ceramide may be composed of a long-chain ceramide and a short-chain ceramide.

The long-chain ceramide may be at least one selected from ceramide 1, ceramide 4 and ceramide 9, and the short-chain ceramide may be at least one selected from ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 5, ceramide 6, ceramide 7 and ceramide 8.

The short-chain ceramides may be composed of two or more different ceramides.

The long-chain ceramides may be contained in an amount of 0.00000001 to 1 wt%, and the short-chain ceramides may be contained in an amount of 0.035 to 0.053 wt%. In detail, the different ceramides constituting the short- .

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain a heterogeneous ceramide and an amphiphilic solvent in a weight ratio of 1: 0.56 to 1.46, and the heterogeneous ceramide and the stabilizer in a weight ratio of 1: 0.18 to 1.05.

The amphiphilic solvent may be 0.031 to 0.049% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the amphipathic solvent may be a polyol, and specifically, a cosmetic composition may be selected from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, and propylene glycol. It may be selected.

The stabilizer may be at least one selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, glyceryl stearate and hydrogenated lecithin.

The cholesterol, glyceryl stearate and hydrogenated lecithin may each be contained in an amount of 0.000001 to 0.01% by weight.

The present invention also provides a process for preparing the cosmetic composition, which comprises dissolving heterogeneous ceramides and a stabilizer in an amphipathic solvent and heating the mixture at a temperature of 70 to 90 ° C, Stirring the mixture in a kneader at 2000 to 6000 rpm for 5 minutes, and cooling the mixture to a temperature of 20 to 30 占 폚.

The cosmetic composition in which a plurality of ceramide particles are dispersed on the amphipathic solvent according to the present invention can stably contain a plurality of ceramides in one cosmetic and thus has an effect of loading a large amount of ceramide into the cosmetic. , The use of a small amount of cosmetic material has excellent effects such as skin moisturization, skin elasticity improvement, skin regeneration, and atopic improvement.

In addition, since it is possible to stably load many kinds of ceramides in the amphipathic solvent, it is possible to prevent the addition of stabilizers more than necessary, thereby reducing the manufacturing cost, simplifying the manufacturing process, The influence of components other than the component can be minimized.

Figs. 1 and 2 are photographs of the cosmetic compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples taken with an optical microscope.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition in which a plurality of ceramide particles are dispersed on an amphipathic solvent.

Ceramide is a skin constituent that constitutes intercellular lipids, and there are nine types of ceramide present in the skin. Each of the nine types of ceramides has a structure in which some of the functional groups are different on the basis of the sphingolipid structure.

Ceramide 1 has the same structure as Chemical Formula 1 and is also known as ceramide EOS. It is widely known as a component excellent in skin regeneration and improvement, but it is known to be an expensive component. Since the ceramide 1 has an alkyl chain having a carbon number of 30 or more, the length of the hydrophobic functional group is longer than that of other ceramide types.

Ceramide 4, also called ceramide EOH, and ceramide 9, which is called ceramide EOP, have ceramide having a very similar structure to ceramide 1 and have a structure containing a long chain alkyl chain. The following formulas (2) and (3) show specific structures of ceramide 4 and ceramide 9, respectively. As shown in the following formulas (2) and (3), it contains a long chain alkyl chain contained in ceramide 1 and exhibits similar molecular behavior to ceramide 1.

On the other hand, ceramide 3, which is generally contained in most cosmetics, is also called ceramide NP, and has a structure including an alkyl chain of about 23 carbons in the sphingolipid basic skeleton as shown in Formula 4 below.

The following chemical formulas (5) to (9) are respectively shown in the case of ceramide 2 (or ceramide NS), ceramide 5 (or ceramide AS), ceramide 6 (or ceramide NH), ceramide 7 AH), respectively.

Ceramides 2, 5, 6, 7 and 8 contain relatively short alkyl chains, including alkyl chains with about 23 carbon atoms, similar to ceramide 3. Since these ceramides contain a relatively short chain alkyl chain, the hydrophobic functional groups are shorter than the above-mentioned ceramide 1 and have almost similar molecular structures, and exhibit similar molecular behaviors therebetween.

Thus, the nine types of ceramides can be broadly classified into long-chain ceramides including long hydrophobic alkyl chains and short-chain ceramides including short hydrophobic alkyl chains such as ceramides 3 as ceramide 1. [

According to the prior art, cosmetics containing ceramides generally use water or oil as a solvent. Ceramides include a hydrophilic hydroxyl group, a peptide group or an ester group, and at the same time, a structure containing a hydrophobic alkyl chain. The stability of ceramide molecules varies depending on the type and composition.

Ceramide having a similar molecular structure in the case of being contained in cosmetics in the form of an emulsion has substantially no influence on the stability at the interface formed by the coalescence of ceramides in the emulsion because the sizes of the hydrophobic functional groups are almost the same. However, The long-chain ceramides and the short-chain ceramides have different lipophilic properties, so that the long-chain ceramides and the short-chain ceramides can not stably coagulate at the interface, resulting in an unstable interface.

On the other hand, in the case of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, by including an amphiphilic solvent, the solvent has a structure in which the solvent properly surrounds the ceramide molecules properly and dispersed stably, and the long-chain ceramide and the short- But has a dispersion structure stabilized by an amphiphilic solvent, respectively.

Since it is possible to stably disperse the long-chain ceramides and the short-chain ceramides exhibiting different molecular behaviors in the cosmetics simultaneously with the amphiphilic solvent, it is also possible to disperse a large amount of ceramides.

Specifically, the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes heterogeneous ceramides. Here, the heterogeneous ceramide refers to ceramides of different kinds among nine kinds of ceramides, and specifically, ceramide such as long-chain ceramide and short-chain ceramide It is also a different kind of thing when it is divided into two kinds.

As mentioned above, among the nine types of ceramides, the long-chain ceramides mean ceramide 1, ceramide 4 and ceramide 9 having a relatively long alkyl chain, and may be one or more selected from these.

Most preferably, the long-chain ceramide may comprise ceramide 1.

On the other hand, the heterogeneous ceramides include at least one of the long-chain ceramides, and the short-chain ceramide means ceramides 2, ceramides 3, ceramides 5, ceramides 6, ceramides 7 and ceramides 8 except for the long- The short-chain ceramide may be at least one selected from these.

More specifically, the short-chain ceramide may be composed of two or more different ceramides, preferably two or more selected from the group consisting of ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 5 and ceramide 6, Preferably ceramide 2 and ceramide 3, and most preferably a mixture of ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 5, and ceramide 6.

In the present invention, the long-chain ceramides may be contained in an amount of 0.00000001 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.0000001 to 0.1 wt%, and most preferably 0.000001 to 0.001 wt%.

The short-chain ceramide may be contained in an amount of 0.035 to 0.053% by weight, more preferably 0.038 to 0.050% by weight, and most preferably 0.040 to 0.046% by weight.

At this time, when the short-chain ceramides are composed of two or more ceramides different from each other, the different ceramides may be contained in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.052% by weight. More preferably from 0.0001 to 0.049% by weight, and most preferably from 0.001 to 0.045% by weight.

On the other hand, the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes a stabilizer.

The stabilizer is widely used in the technical field and can be freely used within the scope of the object of the present invention. Preferably, however, the component constituting the intercellular lipid may contain cholesterol as a stabilizer, Glyceryl stearate or hydrogenated lecithin.

The stabilizer may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 0.03% by weight, preferably 0.012 to 0.025% by weight, and most preferably 0.014 to 0.016% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The most preferred form includes all of cholesterol, glyceryl stearate and hydrogenated lecithin, and each may be contained in an amount of 0.000001 to 0.01% by weight.

Specifically, when the stabilizer includes both cholesterol, glyceryl stearate and hydrogenated lecithin, each component may preferably be contained in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.008% by weight, and most preferably 0.0001 to 0.005% by weight.

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises an amphipathic solvent.

The amphiphilic solvent means a solvent having both a hydrophilic group and a hydrophobic group in the solvent molecule and having both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. The amphiphilic solvent may be a variety of amphiphilic solvents, but may preferably be a polyol, so long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.

More specifically, the polyol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol , methylpropanediol, and pentylene glycol.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the polyol may preferably be dipropylene glycol.

Specifically, the amphiphilic solvent may be contained in an amount of 0.031 to 0.049% by weight, more specifically 0.033 to 0.047% by weight, and most preferably 0.035 to 0.045% by weight.

On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain a heterogeneous ceramide and an amphiphilic solvent in a weight ratio of 1: 0.56 to 1.46, preferably 1: 0.65 to 1.2, and most preferably 1: : 0.8 to 1.0 by weight.

When the amphipathic solvent is added in an excess amount above the ratio, the formulation is unstable, the ceramides are not uniformly dispersed in the cosmetic, and there is a problem of separation. When a small amount of the amphiphilic solvent is added in the ratio, There is a problem in that ceramides are not uniformly dispersed.

In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain a heterogeneous ceramide and a stabilizer in a weight ratio of 1: 0.18 to 1.05. More preferably in a weight ratio of 1: 0.2 to 0.9, and most preferably in a weight ratio of 1: 0.3 to 0.5.

When the stabilizer is added in an excess amount in excess of the above ratio, there is a problem that the formulation becomes unstable, and when added in a small amount, the ceramide can not be dissolved in the cosmetic but precipitates and is not uniformly dispersed in the cosmetic.

Various cosmetic additives may be included within the range not impairing the object of the present invention. For example, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives and the like may be added.

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be manufactured in any formulations conventionally produced in the art such as moisturizers, external preparations for treating atopy, and the like. For example, the cosmetic composition may be in the form of cream, solid cosmetic, lotion, lotion, , A mask sheet, and the like, but is not limited thereto.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be prepared by dissolving heterogeneous ceramides and stabilizers in an amphipathic solvent and heating the mixture at a temperature of 70 to 90 ° C, adding the resulting mixture to a homogenizer, Stirring the mixture at 6000 rpm for 5 minutes, and cooling the mixture after the stirring to a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

Preparation of cosmetic composition

The cosmetic compositions of the examples constituted of the ingredients shown in the following Table 1 were prepared.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Example Comparative Example One One 2 3 4 Long chain
Ceramide Ceramide 1 0.0000001 0.0000001 0.0000001 0.0000001 0.0000001 Short chain
Ceramide Among short-chain ceramides 2,3,5,6
Two or more species 0.044 0.054 0.034 0.044 0.044 Stabilizer cholesterol 0.015999 0.015999 0.015999 0.008999 0.030999 Glyceryl
Stearate Hydrogenated lecithin Amphipathic solvent Dipropylene glycol 0.04 0.03 0.05 0.04 0.04

Based on the following Table 2, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 2, 3 and Comparative Example 5 were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the kind of the short-chain ceramide was changed.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Example Comparative Example 2 3 5 Long chain
Ceramide Ceramide 1 0.0000001 0.0000001 0.0000001 Short chain
Ceramide Ceramide 2 0.001 0.001 - Ceramide 3 0.043 0.041 0.044 Ceramide 5 - 0.001 - Ceramide 6 - 0.001 - Total amount 0.044 0.044 0.044 Stabilizer cholesterol 0.001 0.001 0.001 Glyceryl
Stearate 0.004999 0.004999 0.004999 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.01 0.01 0.01 Amphipathic solvent Dipropylene glycol 0.04 0.04 0.04

In vitro skin permeation (Franz Diffusion Cell System)

The permeation test of membranes (0.6362 cm 2) for 24 hours was carried out on the cosmetic compositions of the examples and comparative examples using the Franz Diffusion Cell method, and the results are shown in the following Table 3.

Example Comparative Example One 2 3 One 2 3 4 5 Percutaneous absorption rate
(탆 / cm ² ) 180 80 150 50 20 50 50 20

Ceramide stabilization confirmation experiment

The cosmetic compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples were photographed with an optical microscope to confirm the degree of dispersion of the ceramides in the cosmetic. Table 4 shows the size, particle size distribution and formulation stability of the dispersed particles by analyzing the photographed photographs.

Example Comparative Example One 2 3 One 2 3 4 5 Particle size
(탆) 5 5 3 20 30 30 25 20 Particle size distribution
(polydispersity index) <0.8 &Lt; 1.0 <0.6 <2.5 <3.0 <2.0 <1.8 &Lt; 1.0 Formulation stability stability a little
stability stability Precipitation detach Precipitation Instability Instability

The percutaneous absorption rate shown in Table 3 indicates the percutaneous absorption rate of the ceramide component per unit area. In the case of Examples 1 and 3, a very high percutaneous absorption rate was confirmed to be 150 μm / cm ² or more. In particular, it was found that the dermal absorption rate was about 3 times as high as that of Comparative Examples 1, 3 and 4.

When the weight ratio of the amphiphilic solvent to the ceramide was excessively added as in Comparative Example 2, there was a problem that the formulation was separated. As can be seen from Comparative Example 2 in FIG. 2, it was confirmed that not only the ceramide particles were formed but also the uniform dispersion of the ceramide particles in the cosmetic was difficult.

Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 3 were prepared by adding a larger amount of ceramide than the Examples. However, since the ceramide could not be stably dissolved and dispersed in the cosmetic, the amount of the ceramide loaded into the cosmetic material was substantially , And thus the transdermal absorption rate was also measured to be low.

The cosmetic material of Comparative Example 5 was prepared by adding ceramide, polyol and stabilizer in the same amounts as in Examples 1 to 3, but the percutaneous absorption rate was the lowest among the cosmetic materials of Examples and Comparative Examples, and the formulation of the cosmetic material was also unstable .

Referring to Table 4 and FIG. 1, the cosmetic material of the example is formed into particles having a particle size of 3 to 5 mu m (micrometer) and is uniformly dispersed in the cosmetic material, while the cosmetic material of the comparative example has a diameter of 20 to 30 mu m The particles having a particle size of about 4 to 10 times as large as that of the Example are formed.

It is easy to absorb the active ingredient formed of small particles when absorbed into the skin, and therefore it can be seen that the cosmetic material of the examples has a high percutaneous absorption rate as shown in Table 3. [

The particle size distribution means that the degree of dispersion of the ceramide particles in the cosmetic can be confirmed, and the smaller the number is, the more uniform the cosmetic powder is distributed in the cosmetic.

It was confirmed that the cosmetic material of the example had a particle size distribution of 0.6 to 1.0 or less and was dispersed evenly in the cosmetic material as compared with the comparative example.

As described above, the cosmetics of the examples were found to be able to load ceramides in cosmetics with a high content, and that the percutaneous absorption rate of ceramides was high, as ceramide particles with small diameters were uniformly dispersed in cosmetics.

Claims (17)

Heterogeneous ceramides; Stabilizers; And Amphiphilic Solvent; &Lt; / RTI &gt; The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the heterogeneous ceramide is at least two selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6, ceramide 7, ceramide 8 and ceramide 9. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the heterogeneous ceramide comprises a long-chain ceramide and a short-chain ceramide. The method of claim 3,
Wherein the long-chain ceramide is at least one selected from ceramide 1, ceramide 4 and ceramide 9,
Wherein the short-chain ceramide is at least one selected from ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 5, ceramide 6, ceramide 7, and ceramide 8. 5. The method of claim 4,
Wherein the short-chain ceramide comprises two or more different ceramides. The method of claim 3,
Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
The long-chain ceramides are 0.00000001 to 1% by weight,
And the short-chain ceramide is 0.035 to 0.053% by weight. The method according to claim 6,
Wherein the short-chain ceramide comprises 0.00001 to 0.052% by weight of different ceramides based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the heterogeneous ceramide and the amphiphilic solvent are contained in a weight ratio of 1: 0.56 to 1.46. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the heterogeneous ceramide and the stabilizer are contained in a weight ratio of 1: 0.18 to 1.05. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the amphipathic solvent is 0.031 to 0.049% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the amphipathic solvent is a polyol. 12. The method of claim 11,
Wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Propanediol, and Propylene Glycol. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the stabilizer is at least one selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, glyceryl stearate, and hydrogenated lecithin. 14. The method of claim 13,
Wherein the stabilizer comprises cholesterol,
Wherein the cholesterol is contained in an amount of 0.000001 to 0.01% by weight. 14. The method of claim 13,
Wherein the stabilizer comprises glyceryl stearate,
Wherein the glyceryl stearate is contained in an amount of 0.000001 to 0.01% by weight. 14. The method of claim 13,
Wherein the stabilizer comprises a hydrogenated lecithin,
Wherein the hydrogenated lecithin is contained in an amount of 0.000001 to 0.01% by weight. A method for producing the cosmetic composition of claim 1,
A dissolution process in which heterogeneous ceramides and a stabilizer are put in an amphiphilic solvent and heated at a temperature of 70 to 90 DEG C,
The above-mentioned solubilized mixture is placed in a homogenizer and stirred for 5 minutes at 2000 to 6000 rpm.
And cooling the mixed mixture to a temperature of 20 to 30 캜.

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