KR20170090734A

KR20170090734A - Cosmetic composition stabilizing ceramides with multi-layer nano gel emulsion and manufacturing method thereof

Info

Publication number: KR20170090734A
Application number: KR1020160011443A
Authority: KR
Inventors: 정관영
Original assignee: 정관영
Priority date: 2016-01-29
Filing date: 2016-01-29
Publication date: 2017-08-08
Also published as: KR101780772B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a ceramide stabilizing cosmetic composition comprising multi-layer nanogel emulsion and a method for manufacturing multi-layer nanogel emulsion. The ceramide stabilizing cosmetic composition of the present invention is formed by mixing and agitating a water phase portion and a poorly water soluble lipid portion and then inserting an oil phase portion. Various kinds of ceramide and depravities thereof which are poorly water soluble skin lipid elements are enhanced. Crystallizability of ceramide is reduced. At the same time, ceramide is oriented with an element having excellent mixing properties with respect to ceramide. Afterwards, an emulsifier, having powerful self-assembly properties, and an element of the water phase portion comprising a polymer capable of hydration membrane coating on an interface are optimized with sol-gel properties depending on a temperature. Accordingly, multi-layer nanogel is emulsified by stabilizing content of ceramide which is up to 20 wt%. Therefore, ceramide can be mixed into a cosmetic in an easy manner without a secession phenomenon. In addition, the ceramide stabilizing cosmetic composition has an excellent effect of moisturizing skin and preventing skin troubles such as atopic dermatitis by recovering a damaged skin barrier by enabling ceramide to effectively penetrate a skin intercellular substance.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a multi-layered nano-gel emulsion and a method for producing the multi-

The present invention relates to a ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition containing a multi-layered nano-gel emulsion and a method for producing the multi-layered nano gel emulsion. More particularly, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a multi- It is possible to improve hydration properties of various ceramides and derivatives thereof as lipid components and to alleviate the crystallinity of ceramides and to align them with components having excellent compatibility with ceramides and then to form a strong magnetic body with sol- By optimizing the components of the emulsion having the associative properties and the polymer capable of coating the hydration film at the interface, the emulsion of the multi-layer nanogels is stabilized up to 20% by weight of the ceramide, so that it can be easily incorporated into cosmetics without desorption As well as allowing the ceramide to penetrate effectively into the interstitium of skin cells Layered nano gel emulsion, and a method for producing a multi-layered nano gel emulsion, which is excellent in preventing skin troubles such as atopic dermatitis by restoring a damaged skin barrier.

Cosmetics that provide a moisturizing effect to the skin are generally prepared in the form of an emulsion mainly because they need to mix a polymer moisturizing agent such as a low molecular weight humectant such as glycerin, butylene glycol and the like, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, squalane, jojoba oil, .

The above-mentioned emulsion-related technology has been developed into various emulsifying techniques in order to fundamentally improve the skin dryness and the trouble caused by merely mixing water-soluble and oil-soluble substances stably to moisturize the skin and improve the feeling to be felt by the user .

Therefore, in recent cosmetics industry, not only simple moisturizing effect and feeling improvement but also fundamental improvement of skin moisture retention after use of cosmetics for a certain period of time and skin improvement effect that can visually recognize skin sensitivity to external pollutants, Is becoming an important factor to measure.

Therefore, the technology for synthesizing various ceramides and derivatives thereof that constitute the intercellular quality, which is a skin barrier of the actual stratum corneum, has been developed, so that it is possible to exert a superior effect over the conventional products, and the development of the technology is remarkable.

However, various ceramides and derivatives thereof, which constitute a major barrier for cell membranes constituting the skin barrier, play an important role in preventing evaporation of water in the skin and penetration of external pollutants into the skin, but they are not soluble in water and precipitated even in cosmetics It has a problem that can be easily removed.

The initial technique is to dissolve ceramides in a solvent with high polarity and mix them with higher alcohols such as cetanol and cetearyl alcohol, capric / capric triglyceride and isostearyl succinate (Oil-in-water) emulsion form which is dissolved in an oil phase including polar oil, and it is dissolved in a water-soluble moisturizer such as ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and the like in a more advanced form, Have been applied in the form of liposomes dispersed in water.

However, such conventional techniques have been developed as nanotechnology to solve this problem because ceramides are crystallized and desorbed with time even if they are dissolved temporarily.

The above-mentioned nanotechnology is also largely divided into a water-in-oil type emulsion and a liposome, and its size is formulated as several tens to several hundreds of nanometers to minimize the cohesion between particles under ordinary gravity conditions than ordinary emulsions and liposomes, To minimize crystallization and apply it to premium cosmetics.

Therefore, cosmetics containing ceramides should be prepared by lowering the high crystallinity of the respective lipids and preventing the lipids from separating from the particles and having high crystallinity again. To solve this problem, For the preparation of nanoemulsions and liposomes, the use of additional stabilizing agents as well as compositional ratios of lipids and solvents are considered to be important parameters.

Thus, Korean Patent No. 439595 discloses that a mixture of 3 to 7% by weight of ceramide is mixed at a certain ratio between cholesterol, a fatty acid and an auxiliary emulsifier composed of an oil to provide excellent skin irritation, excellent transdermal absorption, Discloses ceramide liquid crystal capsules having micro particle size that can be imparted.

Korean Patent No. 837558 discloses an emulsion composition comprising nano-sized (10 to 1000 nm) capsule particles stabilized by double-encapsulating a wax matrix and a ceramide using a high-pressure emulsifier, and Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2013-0030093 The present invention provides a multi-layered ceramide lamella structure comprising a glucoside surfactant, and more ceramide can be stably formed, thereby exhibiting excellent skin moisturizing effect and skin barrier function recovery effect when applied to skin have.

Korean Patent No. 7,135,55 discloses a nano liposome comprising a nano liposome stabilized by encapsulating ceramides as an active ingredient, wherein the ceramide is a nanoliposome composed of a mixture of a phospholipid, a fatty acid and a C ₁₀ -C ₄₀ fatty alcohol . Korean Patent No. 1515646 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising ceramides, organic modified clay minerals, N-acylated glutamate diesters and phytosterol as essential ingredients, and is provided with a water-in-oil type emulsifier. When a skin external agent is applied to the skin surface, The effect of delivering the ceramide contained in the horny layer to the vicinity of the dermis is sufficiently provided.

In addition, as a composition stabilizing a ceramide derivative, Korean Patent No. 539965 proposes a use containing a micro or nano-sized emulsion and a liposome-type pseudoceramide which function as a water barrier through various emulsifiers in combination.

Conventional techniques have been focused on stabilizing ceramides using a homomixer or a high pressure emulsifier in a base such as a liposome or an emulsion, using most of the excess oil or wax as a solvent in dissolving ceramides.

Some manufacturers have attempted to increase skin-affinity by using lipids such as phospholipids and cholesterol. However, since the above techniques dissolve ceramides using excess wax or oil, they are mixed with actual cosmetics, and the melting point of the wax components Or more, and there is a restriction to apply to various cosmetics due to their crystallinity when dispersed in a water gel having a low oil content.

Particularly, since most of the prior arts are prepared by dissolving ceramides in oil, a desired effect can not be expected by coating the skin with ceramide-stabilized cosmetics.

That is, in general, when a cosmetic with a stabilized ceramide is applied, a protective film is formed on the skin to naturally enhance the skin barrier. In addition, the ceramide is penetrated into the skin to directly restore the damaged skin barrier Which is not enough to give such an effect in the prior art.

Accordingly, the present inventors have made efforts to improve the problems of the ceramide-stabilized cosmetics obtained by the prior art, and as a result, they have found that it is possible to improve the water-hydratability of various ceramides and derivatives thereof, which are poorly soluble skin lipids, to alleviate the crystallinity of ceramides, The components of the aqueous phase containing the emulsifier having strong self-associating properties and the polymer capable of hydration coating at the interface with sol-gel characteristics according to the temperature were optimized, By weight to a maximum of 20% by weight of the emulsion, to obtain a multilayer nano-gel emulsion, thereby completing the present invention.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition containing a multilayer nano gel emulsion.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing the multi-layered nano gel emulsion.

(A) 0.05 to 3% by weight of a self-assembling emulsifier, 0.05 to 1% by weight of a polymer, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a hydrophilic sterol derivative, at least two hydroxyl groups (-OH) (B) 1 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid comprising 1 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid comprising purified water and 1 to 20% by weight of a ceramide; and (c) 3 to 20% by weight of a polar or non- % And an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil-in-water comprising 0.1 to 3% by weight of an active ingredient.

The mixing ratio of the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) to the purified water in the aqueous phase is preferably 1: 1 to 3, and the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups is preferably propanediol , Methylpropanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, D-panthenol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin or a mixture of two or more thereof At least one selected from the group consisting of

In addition, the hydrophilic sterol derivatives in the aqueous phase include at least one kind of derivatives in which 2 to 20 polyoxyethylene groups are bonded to a sterol group.

Wherein the self-assembling emulsifier is a sucrose emulsifier combined with at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of at least two sucrose groups and 12 to 22 hydrocarbon chains, A glyceryl group and a polyglyceryl type emulsifier combined with at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of 12 to 22 hydrocarbon chain lengths.

The poorly soluble lipid component of the ceramide and its derivatives in the poorly soluble lipid part may be selected from ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, glucosyl ceramide, phytosphingosine, bishydroxyethyl biscetyl malonamide, At least one selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl bislauramide MEA, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, hydroxypropyl bisstearamide MEA, Or more, and is stabilized so as not to separate or precipitate without crystallization over time.

Accordingly, the multi-layer nanoemulsion of the present invention is characterized in that nano-sized particles of 100 to 500 nm are dispersed at a viscosity of 3,000 to 60,000 cps.

Furthermore, the present invention provides a ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition which is dispersed and stabilized in a water gel having a viscosity of from 1 to 30% by weight, as a base composition, of the multi-layered nano gel emulsion.

The above-described cosmetic compositions for stabilizing ceramides using a multi-layer nanoemulsion can be easily applied to a variety of viscous water gels and water-in-oil emulsions having a nano size, so that they can be applied to low viscosity skins, mask sheets, The skin improvement effect can be maximized. For example, it can be applied to products selected from the group consisting of skins, lotions, essences, creams, eye creams, ampoules, body lotions, body creams, mist and mask sheets.

(B) an insoluble lipid portion containing a ceramide component is added to the above water (a), stirred at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm, and then the oil portion of (c) is added and stirred at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm Forming micro-sized water-in-oil type emulsions;

Pressure emulsifier at 50 to 70 ° C. and treating the formed water-in-water type emulsion at a pressure of 500 to 1,500 bar to form a multi-layered nano-emulsion having a size of 100 to 500 nm; and

Cooling the multi-layer nanoemulsion at 40 to 50 < 0 > C,

(A) 0.05 to 3% by weight of a self-associating emulsifier, 0.05 to 1% by weight of a polymer, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a hydrophilic sterol derivative, and 2 or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) And (b) a poorly soluble lipid moiety is mixed with an aqueous solution containing 30 to 80% by weight of a solvent and purified water to stabilize the ceramide compound in a multi-layered nano-gel emulsion.

Concretely, the water-soluble lipid part is mixed with the water mixed with the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) relative to the purified water at a mixing ratio of 1: 1 to 3, Wherein the hydrophilic sterol derivative is at least one kind selected from the group consisting of derivatives in which 2 to 20 polyoxyethylene groups are bonded to a sterol group in the aqueous phase, %, It is possible to alleviate the crystallization of the ceramide compound.

According to the present invention, by providing a cosmetic composition containing a multi-layered nano gel emulsion stabilizing ceramide, which is a poorly soluble skin lipid component, it is possible to easily formulate a cosmetic composition without causing desorption, Thereby restoring the damaged skin barrier. Thus, it is possible to provide not only a moisturizing effect but also an excellent effect in preventing skin troubles such as atopy caused by dryness of the skin and loss of immunity.

In addition, the multi-layered nano gel emulsion of the present invention can be easily applied to water gels and water-in-oil type emulsions having nano size and various viscosities, so that they can be applied to low viscosity skins, mask sheets to high viscosity creams, The improvement effect can be maximized.

FIG. 1 shows the results of X-ray diffraction analysis of a multilayered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides of the present invention according to the content ratio between purified water in an aqueous phase and a solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups,
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the structure of a multi-layered nano gel emulsion in which the poorly soluble skin lipid component of the present invention is stabilized,
3 is an enlarged photograph of a multilayered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides prepared in Example 5 of the present invention by a freezing electron microscope,
FIG. 4 shows the results of analysis of the structural stability of the multi-layered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides of the present invention by a thermal differential scanning calorimeter,
FIG. 5 shows the results of particle size analysis of the ceramide-stabilized multilayer nanogel emulsion prepared in Example 2 and Example 5 of the present invention,
FIG. 6 is a graph showing the results of a comparison between the multilayer nanogel emulsion (A) stabilized with ceramides of Example 2 of the present invention, the essence cosmetic composition (B) of Example 9 containing the same, and the cosmetic composition ) Was observed. As a result,
Figure 7 shows the results of evaluating the moisturizing effect of the essence cosmetic composition of Example 9 of the present invention and Comparative Example 11,
8 shows the results of evaluating the amount of percutaneous water evaporation for the essence cosmetic composition of Example 9 of the present invention and Comparative Example 11.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention relates to a composition comprising (a) 0.05 to 3 wt% of a self-assembling emulsifier, 0.05 to 1 wt% of a polymer, 0.5 to 5 wt% of a hydrophilic sterol derivative, 30 to 80 wt% of a solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (B) 1 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid comprising 1 to 20% by weight of a phospholipid and 1 to 20% by weight of a ceramide, and (c) 3 to 20% by weight of a polar or non- 3 wt% of a multi-layer nanogel emulsion stabilized with a ceramide, wherein the emulsion is stabilized.

Hereinafter, the characteristics of the composition of each composition of the multi-layer nanoemulsion will be described.

(a)

The ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition of the present invention improves the water-solubility of various ceramides and derivatives thereof, which is an insoluble skin lipid component, and alleviates the crystallinity of the ceramide, and at the same time, After the orientation, components of the aqueous phase containing the emulsifier having a strong self-associating property as a sol-gel property and the polymer capable of hydration film coating at the interface were optimized according to the temperature, and a content of up to 20% by weight of the ceramide Can be stabilized.

In the upper portion of the water, a hydrophilic sterol derivative is contained in an amount of 0.05 to 3 wt%, a polymer is contained in an amount of 0.05 to 1 wt%, a hydrophilic sterol derivative is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 5 wt%, a solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) And purified water.

Concretely, as a solvent condition in which soluble ceramide and its derivatives which are poorly soluble skin lipids are easily dissolved, the mixing ratio of the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) to the purified water in the aqueous phase is 1: 1 to 3 To improve hydration properties of various ceramides and derivatives thereof, which are poorly soluble skin lipid components.

Through the above mixing ratio, the ceramide and its derivatives are dissolved to 20% compared with 10% of the conventional solution, and two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) of the solvent bind to the fatty acids of ceramides and derivatives thereof to swell So that the ceramide and its derivatives are sufficiently hydrated.

The solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups may be at least one selected from the group consisting of propanediol, methylpropanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, , Diglycerin, or a mixture of two or more thereof.

FIG. 1 is a result of X-ray diffraction analysis of a multilayered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides according to the present invention, according to the content ratio of purified water and a solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups. As a result, when the mixing ratio is within the above range, a scattering vector (Q (A-1)) is uniformly expressed in an integer ratio without any separate peeled peaks, so that a stable structure can be confirmed.

In addition, the hydrophilic sterol derivative (a) of the present invention contains 0.5 to 5% by weight of the hydrophilic sterol derivative, preferably a derivative of 2 to 20 polyoxyethylene group (s) in the sterol group At least one or more of them may be used.

The hydrophilic sterol derivative acts as a balloon-like structure to alleviate the crystallinity of ceramides and greatly improve the solubility.

If the content of the hydrophilic sterol derivative is less than 0.5% by weight, the effect of improving the solubility of the ceramide is insignificant. On the other hand, if the content of the hydrophilic sterol derivative exceeds 5% by weight, the sterol derivative itself is desorbed to form another crystalline phase.

(a) The self-associating emulsifier contained in the water serves as a self-associating property due to strong hydrogen bonding at 55 ° C or less during the manufacturing process to form a particle-to-particle gel network, thereby preventing the ceramide from being eliminated as a water phase.

The self-associating emulsifier may comprise two or more sucrose groups; A sucrose emulsifier combined with at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon chain lengths of 12 to 22; Two or more glyceryl groups; And a polyglyceryl type emulsifier combined with at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon chain lengths of 12 to 22,

In this case, the preferable content of the self-associating emulsifier is preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and if it is less than 0.05% by weight, the particles will coalesce with time and the ceramide may be desorbed. Interferes with the multilayer orientation and rather prevents stabilization of the ceramide.

The polymer component (a) contained in the water has the effect of preventing the ceramide from being separated into water by the adsorption of several tens of hydrophilic groups on the particle interface to form a strong hydration film.

Examples thereof include inulin lauryl carbamate, phage-150 distearate, phage-30 polyhydroxystearate, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-61, polygamma glutamic acid and beta -Glucan is contained in an amount of 0.05 to 1% by weight. If the content of the polymer is less than 0.05% by weight, the effect of stabilizing the interface is insignificant. If the content of the polymer is more than 1% by weight, excessively high viscosity is formed during emulsification.

(b) a poorly soluble lipid moiety

The phospholipid contained in the poorly soluble lipid part (b) of the present invention has a chemical structure similar to that of various ceramides, and functions to stabilize the emulsion particle while forming multiple layers at the interface with ceramides.

Preferred phospholipids include phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, and phosphatidylserine, in which two hydrocarbons having a chain length of 14 to 18 are bonded to a phosphate group (phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, (Phosphatidylserine) is preferably contained in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the formation of a multi-layered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides according to the present invention, wherein the multi-layer nanogel emulsion is formed by the above components, that is, a multilayer orientation of a phospholipid, Emulsion.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged photograph of a multi-layered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides prepared in Example 5 of the present invention by a freezing electron microscope, showing the formation of a film structure of a nanogel emulsion stabilized with a multilayer film at a particle interface can do.

Ceramides and derivatives thereof, which are poorly soluble lipid components contained in the poorly soluble lipid part (b) of the present invention, are important ingredients for restoring damaged skin barrier, which is a main effect of the present invention, and preferably improving skin dryness and trouble.

Preferable examples of the ceramides and derivatives thereof include ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, glucosyl ceramide, phytosphingosine, bishydroxyethyl biscetyl malonamide, hydroxypropyl bislauramide m- At least one selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl bislauramide (MEA), hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, and hydroxypropyl bisstearamide MEA.

If the content is less than 1% by weight, the skin barrier restorative effect is insufficient when it is incorporated in cosmetics. If it exceeds 20% by weight, even if it is dissolved once, This is a bad problem.

(c)

The polar or non-polar oils of the oily phase (c) form a core of the nanoemulsion and serve as a medium through which ceramides and their derivatives can be oriented.

As an example thereof, it is preferable to use at least one member selected from the group consisting of squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene and mineral oil, and polar oils include jojoba oil, argan oil, meadowfoam seed oil , Macadamia nut oil, camellia oil, and natural oils such as capric / caprylic triglyceride, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, dicapryl carbonate, glyceryl trioctanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearylisostearate , Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and octyl palmitate is preferably contained in an amount of 3 to 20% by weight.

If the content is less than 3 wt%, the formation of the core in the emulsion is insignificant, and the ceramides and derivatives thereof can not be stably oriented. When the content is more than 20 wt%, the nano-scale can not be formed.

The oil soluble active ingredient of the oily phase part (c) includes tocopherol and its derivatives, coenzyme Q10, vitamin C lipophilic derivatives, retinol and derivatives thereof, oleanolic acid, ursolic acid, , Diacetyl boldine, idebenone, and a lipophilic licorice extract in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight. In this case, the content is determined according to the activity and solubility of each active ingredient, and the above range is applied to the ordinary range in which the solubility and efficacy of these active ingredients can be exerted. It is not content.

The multi-layered nanoemulsion obtained from the combination of the above components is dispersed at a viscosity of 3,000 to 60,000 cps with nanoparticles of 100 to 500 nm.

Thus, it is possible to provide a dispersion stabilized ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition containing 1 to 30% by weight of the multi-layered nano gel emulsion of the present invention as a base composition and having a water-based viscosity. That is, since the ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition using the multi-layer nano emulsion can be easily stabilized in water gel and water-in-oil type emulsion having various nano-sized viscosities, it is possible to expand the application from low viscosity skins, mask sheets to high viscosity creams The desired skin improvement effect can be maximized. For example, it can be applied to products selected from the group consisting of skins, lotions, essences, creams, eye creams, ampoules, body lotions, body creams, mist and mask sheets.

FIG. 4 is a graph showing the structural stability of a multi-layered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides according to the present invention by a differential scanning calorimeter. As shown in FIG. 4, it has a melting point of 50 ° C or lower and a monotectic behavior, Can be confirmed.

FIG. 5 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of a ceramide-stabilized multi-layered nanogel emulsion prepared in Example 2 and Example 5 of the present invention . As shown in FIG. 5 , particle formation having a uniform particle size distribution can be confirmed. 5 ° C, 0 ° C, 25 ° C, 40 ° C 6 hours / day circulation) for 3 months.

Fig. 6 is a graph showing the results of a comparison between a multilayered nanogel emulsion (A) stabilized with ceramides of Example 2 and an essence of Example 9 containing the stabilized multilayer nanogel emulsion The cosmetic composition (B) and the cosmetic composition (C) after storage for 5 months at 45 캜 were observed for stability, and as a result, they remained stable without any separation or crystal precipitation even after storage at 45 캜 for 5 months.

As described above, the present invention is applied to a cosmetic composition in which a ceramide-stabilized multi-layered nano gel emulsion is easily mixed with an insoluble skin lipid component which is hard to be compounded, and the composition is stabilized without separation of a long- Skin moisturization and restoration of damaged skin barrier can be expected.

FIG. 7 shows the result of evaluation of the moisturizing effect of the cosmetic composition of the present invention and FIG. 8 shows the results of evaluation of the amount of percutaneous water evaporation, which is superior to the case of not containing the multi-layer nano gel emulsion, By confirming that the skin barrier has become healthier by lowering the transdermal moisture evaporation amount than that before the post-use, the cosmetic composition containing the multi-layer nano gel emulsion stabilized with ceramides can be confirmed that the skin moisturizing effect is optimized.

(A) 0.05 to 3% by weight of a self-assembled emulsifier, 0.05 to 1% by weight of a polymer, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a hydrophilic sterol derivative, 30 to 30% by weight of a solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (B) 1 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid and 1 to 20% by weight of a ceramide and a derivative thereof, and the mixture is stirred at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm, (c) 3 to 20% by weight of a polar or non-polar oil and 0.1 to 3% by weight of an oil-soluble active ingredient, and stirring at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm to form a micro-sized water-in-water type emulsion;

Layer nano-emulsion is stabilized by cooling the multi-layered nano-emulsion at 40 to 50 ° C to stabilize the ceramide and derivatives thereof.

Wherein the mixing ratio of the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) to the purified water in the step of forming the above water-in-water type emulsion is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 to 3, b) The mixture is sufficiently mixed to hydrate the ceramide compound and 0.5 to 5% by weight of the hydrophilic sterol derivative is contained in the aqueous phase, so that the crystallization of the ceramide compound can be alleviated.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples.

The present invention is intended to more specifically illustrate the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

< Example 1 to 7> Ceramide stabilization Multi-layer Nano emulsion Preparation of composition

The composition and content of the water-soluble part shown in the following Table 1 were put into a separate dissolution tank and heated to 80 DEG C to dissolve. The composition and content of the poorly soluble lipid portion shown in Table 1 were separately measured and prepared. The composition and content of the oil phase shown in Table 1 were added and heated to 80 DEG C to dissolve them. The prepared poorly soluble lipid part was put into a dissolution tank containing the water phase part and emulsified for 5 minutes at a rate of 2,500 rpm using a homomixer while maintaining the temperature at 80 ° C. Then, the oil phase was added again and emulsified for 5 minutes at a speed of 2,500 rpm using a homomixer (HOMO MIXER) to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion phase of several to several tens of micrometers in size. The water-in-oil emulsion phase was charged into a high-pressure emulsifier at 60 ° C and treated three times at a pressure of 1,000 bar to form a multi-layer nano-emulsion phase having a size of 100 to 500 nm and forming several membranes at the interface between the particles and the continuous phase . Thereafter, the nano-emulsion phase was cooled to 45 ° C with a paddle mixer at 25 rpm with gentle stirring to stabilize, thereby preparing a viscous multi-layered nano gel emulsion composition.

In the case of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 prepared in Table 1, depending on the content ratio of the purified water in the upper portion of the water and the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups, a separate desorbed peak (Scattering vector, Q (Å-1)) without peaks was uniformly expressed in an integer ratio, confirming a stable structure.

In the compositions of Examples 4 to 6 prepared in Table 1, a stable nanoemulsion was formed at 100 to 500 nm through balancing of the nonionic emulsifier and the hydrophilic sterol derivative in the aqueous phase according to the content of ceramides.

As shown in FIG. 4, Example 2 and Example 5 were analyzed by a thermal differential scanning calorimetry. As a result, they showed a monotectic behavior with a melting point of 50 ° C or less and confirmed a stable structure formation without crystal precipitation.

The average particle size of the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 prepared in Table 1 was measured by a particle size analyzer. As a result, formation of particles having uniform particle size distribution was confirmed at 126, 121, 260, 116, 165 and 410 nm, The characteristics were stable even at a result of observation for about 3 months in a circulating condition (circulation of -5 ° C, 0 ° C, 25 ° C, 40 ° C for 6 hours / day) at 45 ° C.

Particularly, Fig. 5 shows the particle size analysis results of the ceramide-stabilized multi-layered nano gel emulsion prepared in Example 2 and Example 5, and the results of particle size analysis of 121 nm and 165 nm were confirmed.

The multilayered nanogel emulsion stabilized with ceramides of Examples 7 and 8 in Table 1 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 6 except that the multilayered nanogel emulsion prepared under the same conditions as in Example 6 except that the type of ceramide was changed in the poorly soluble lipid portion , The average particle size was 455 and 388 nm, respectively, and the stability was excellent even after 3 months.

< Comparative Example 1 to 10>

The same procedures as in Example 1 were carried out except that the contents of the water-soluble, lipid-soluble and oil-based components shown in Tables 2 and 3 were different.

Among the compositions prepared in Tables 2 and 3, the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, when the content of purified water was excessively large in the content ratio of the purified water and the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups, As a result, a separated phase was observed as indicated by a peak indicated by '*'.

In the composition of Comparative Example 3, when the content of the self-assembling emulsifier, which is a stabilizer for forming an intergranular gel network, was less than 0.05% by weight, an opaque emulsion was obtained without forming a viscous property and separated at 45 캜 for one week.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 4, an emulsion of opaque type was formed by forming a kind of emulsion gel which was not a nano emulsion, and the self-assembling type emulsifier was contained in an amount exceeding the preferable content range, and ceramide crystals were precipitated .

The composition of Comparative Example 5 was a case where the polymer component that helped stabilize the ceramides by coating the interface of the nano emulsion was smaller than the preferable content range, and the state immediately after preparation was similar to that of Example 2, but the ceramide crystals precipitated within 45 占 폚 within 1 month .

On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 6 had a higher content of the polymer component than the desirable content range, and the viscosity was too high before the high-pressure emulsifier treatment, so that the process was difficult and the milky cream phase of high viscosity was obtained.

The composition of Comparative Example 7 was a case in which the content of the hydrophilic sterol derivative that relaxed the crystallinity of the ceramide was lower than the preferable content range and the ceramide dissolution was not good and the treatment time And it was similar to Example 2 immediately after the preparation, but the ceramide crystals precipitated within one week at 45 ° C.

On the other hand, when the content of the hydrophilic sterol derivative was larger than the preferred content range, the composition of Comparative Example 8 was analyzed by a thermal differential scanning calorimeter of FIG. 4, and as a result, a separate peak was expressed at 50-70 ° C, And immediately after production, it was desorbed and crystallized and precipitated.

The composition of Comparative Example 9 is a case where the content of the oil component that helps form the core of the nanoemulsion and stably arranges the ceramides in the periphery is less than the preferable content range. Ceramide is crystallized and precipitated immediately after preparation, . On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 10 formed an emulsion with a non-transparent suspension state and a very high viscosity when the oil content was more than the desirable content range. However, formation of a water-in-water type emulsion resulted in good formulation stability.

< Example 9> Nano emulsion Containing essence Cosmetics Produce

An essence cosmetic composition was prepared by combining 10 wt% of the multi-layer nano gel emulsion prepared in Example 2 with the composition shown in Table 4 below.

First, the water phase was dissolved at room temperature, and the water phase was dispersed in purified water at 200 rpm for 20 minutes. Then, the mixture was heated to 80 DEG C for 10 minutes at 200 rpm in an agitator, Lt; / RTI > Thereafter, the mixture was cooled to 50 deg. C, and a neutralizing agent portion previously prepared by dissolving was added. The mixture was dispersed at 100 rpm for 2 minutes in an agitator mixer. The multi-layer nano gel emulsion of Example 2 was then added and dispersed for 5 minutes at 100 rpm in an agitator. To prepare an essence cosmetic.

< Comparative Example 11> Nano emulsion Containing essence Cosmetics Produce

Layer nano-gel emulsion prepared in Example 2, and in combination with the composition shown in the following Table 4, an essence cosmetic material was prepared.

< Experimental Example 1> Appearance

The properties of the multilayered nano gel emulsion (A) prepared in Example 2 and the essence cosmetic composition (B) prepared in Example 9 were observed.

As a result, as shown in FIG. 6, the ceramide-stabilized multi-layered nanogel emulsion (A) prepared in Example 2 was in a semi-transparent suspension viscous liquid state and the essence cosmetic composition (B ) Formed an emulsion of a suspension gel type emulsion with a slightly bluish color.

(C) shows that the cosmetic composition of Example 9 was stored at 45 캜 for 5 months, and as a property, it was confirmed that it was stable without any separation or crystal precipitation.

From the above results, it can be seen that, from the results of applying the multi-layered nano gel emulsion to a cosmetic composition, it is easy to form an insoluble skin lipid component which is hard to be compounded and the composition is stabilized without separation of the long- A barrier restoration effect can be expected.

< Experimental Example 2> Moisturizing effect evaluation

When the essence cosmetic composition of Example 9 and Comparative Example 11 was applied to the skin, the moisturizing effect was comparatively evaluated. At this time, an immediate moisturizing effect was measured using a skin moisture meter (Corneometer, CK electronics, Germany), and it is shown in FIG.

In addition, the transdermal moisture evaporation amount was measured using a skin barrier restoration transdermal moisture evaporation amount measuring device (Tewameter, CK electronics, Germany), and it is shown in FIG.

8, the essence prepared in Example 9 maintained a high moisture content of 50% or more as compared with that before use even after the lapse of 9 hours, whereas the essence prepared in Comparative Example 11 retained the moisturizing effect to some extent until 1 hour The time from when the moisturizing effect showed a sudden drop.

8, the essence prepared in Example 9 showed that skin barrier was healthy by reducing the amount of percutaneous water evaporation to 1/5 after one month's use in the morning and evening and before use, while the essence prepared in Comparative Example 11 Showed the same amount of transdermal water evaporation as before use even after 1 month of use under the same conditions.

From the above results, it was confirmed that the multi-layered nanogel emulsion of the present invention can optimize the skin moisturizing effect of the cosmetic composition containing it by stabilizing ceramides.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY As described above, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing a multi-layer nano gel emulsion stabilizing ceramide, which is an insoluble skin lipid component, so that it can be easily incorporated into cosmetics without desorption, , And is effective in curing dry skin problems through restoring damaged skin barrier.

The multi-layered nano gel emulsion of the present invention is an important lipid constituting skin barrier and plays an important role in preventing evaporation of moisture in the skin and penetration of external pollutants into the skin, but it can solve the problem of poor solubility of ceramide having water- It is a hydrophilic sterol derivative that completely solubilizes ceramides by using a high pressure emulsifier and is capable of solving the solvent conditions and the crystallinity of the ceramides which are easy to hydrate the ceramides and has the phospholipids excellent in compatibility with them and strong self- It emulsifies with sucrose-based and polyglyceryl-type emulsifier and has a multi-layer gel structure. It is nano-sized to 100 ~ 500nm and stabilized without desorption phenomenon. Ceramides effectively penetrate the skin cell interstitium, restoring damaged skin barrier, To prevent dry skin problems Gives an effect.

While the invention has been shown and described with reference to certain exemplary embodiments thereof, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims

(a) 0.05 to 3% by weight of a self-associating emulsifier, 0.05 to 1% by weight of a polymer, 0.5 to 5% by weight of a hydrophilic sterol derivative, 30 to 80% by weight of a solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 >
(b) 1 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid, 1 to 20% by weight of a ceramide and a derivative thereof, and
(c) 3 to 20% by weight of a polar or nonpolar oil and 0.1 to 3% by weight of an oil soluble active ingredient.

[3] The method according to claim 1, wherein the mixing ratio of the (a) solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) to the purified water in the aqueous phase is 1: Cosmetic composition.

The process according to claim 2, wherein the solvent having two or more hydroxyl groups is at least one selected from the group consisting of propanediol, methylpropanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, - at least one selected from the group consisting of panthenol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, or a mixture of two or more thereof.

[Claim 2] The method according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic sterol derivative (a) is at least one derivative selected from the group consisting of a polyoxyethylene group having 2 to 20 polyoxyethylene groups bonded to a sterol group, Stabilizing cosmetic composition.

The method of claim 1, wherein (a) the self-assembling emulsifier in the aqueous phase comprises two or more sucrose groups; A sucrose emulsifier combined with at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon chain lengths of 12 to 22; Two or more glyceryl groups; And a polyglyceryl-based emulsifier combined with at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon chain lengths of 12 to 22; and at least one or more selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-based emulsifiers.

The method according to claim 1, wherein in the poorly soluble lipid part (b), the ceramide and the derivative thereof are selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, glucosyl ceramide, phytosphingosine, bishydroxyethyl biscetyl malonamide ) Selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl bislaurimide MEA, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, and hydroxypropyl bisstearamide MEA. Wherein the at least one cosmetic composition is at least one kind or more.

The ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the nano-sized particles of the multi-layer nanoemulsion having a particle size of 100 to 500 nm are dispersed at a viscosity of 3,000 to 60,000 cps.

The ceramide stabilized cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the multi-layered nano gel emulsion is contained as a base composition in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight and is dispersed and stabilized in a viscous water gel.