KR20160035602A - Solid cosmetic composition comprising a hydrocarbon-based resin, a hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil and a non-volatile silicone oil - Google Patents

Abstract

At least one hydrocarbon-based phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based resin having a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, at least one hydrocarbon-based block polymer, at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon- oil; At least one silicone phase comprising at least one nonvolatile silicone oil that is compatible with the hydrocarbon-based phase; And at least one surfactant, preferably for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips. The invention also relates to a method for the make-up and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, which comprises applying the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or the lips.

Description

SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROCARBON-BASED RESIN, A HYDROCARBON-BASED BLOCK COPOLYMER, A NON-VOLATILE APOLAR, A NON-VOLATILE APOLAR, HYDROCARBON-BASED OIL AND A NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OIL}

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the lips or the skin, comprising a hydrocarbon-based resin, a hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil and a hydrocarbon-based phase and at least one nonvolatile silicone oil .

Lipsticks with good color persistence generally consist of a starting material which is mutually incompatible with each other, which is commonly used with volatile or semi-volatile solvents.

While such compositions have improved color persistence as compared to other compositions, the use of volatile components nevertheless nevertheless increases the manufacturing costs incurred by adjusting the process to the presence of these compounds, and also the devices sealed for these components It includes several drawbacks that accompany the need to use. Moreover, the presence of volatile components in the composition makes it no longer possible to keep the sample open during shelf display.

With the passage of time after application of the composition, the loss of gloss of the deposit, which is caused by the volatile or semi-volatile component (s) initially and also the perceivable discomfort (dryness, pulling feel) is observed by the consumer.

The present invention therefore seeks to achieve the same color persistence as a lipstick with good color persistence utilizing the incompatibility of the starting material without the use of any volatile or semi-volatile compatibilizing agent.

That is, according to one embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a pharmaceutical composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

At least one hydrocarbon-based phase comprising:

- at least one hydrocarbon-based resin having a number average molecular weight of 10 000 g / mol or less,

At least one hydrocarbon-based block polymer,

- at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil,

At least one silicone phase comprising at least one nonvolatile silicone oil which is non-volatile and compatible with said hydrocarbon-based phase, and

At least one surfactant

, Preferably a solid cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the cosmetic composition for such make-up and / or care of the lips or the skin actually maintains its comfort over time, has low tackiness or tack-free, anti-migration and gloss, It is possible to obtain sediments on the lips and / or skin having a lasting, especially color persistence and also gloss persistence.

Moreover, the compositions according to the invention are homogeneous and stable at room temperature. The term "stable" composition means that it does not exhibit any exudation or phase separation, especially after one month or even two months at 47 < 0 > C.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition is in solid form at < RTI ID = 0.0 > 20 C. < / RTI >

In particular, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply to the skin and / or lips. Ease of application is particularly reflected in slipperiness and ease of erosion. Moreover, the composition according to the present invention is solid enough to not crack upon application.

Refers to the form of the composition at 20 ° C as opposed to a fluid composition (such as a liquid lip composition such as a "gloss"), and in particular the term "solid"Lt; 0 > C and an atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of 30 Nm < ^-1 >

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, preferably a lip makeup composition, for example a solid lipstick, which may be in the form of, for example, sticks or cast into jars or dishes.

According to a further aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the lips, comprising application to the lips and / or skin of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

Particularly preferably, the invention preferably relates to a make-up method of the lips, which comprises application to the lips of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

Physiologically acceptable medium:

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to refer to media that are particularly suitable for applying the compositions of the present invention to the skin or lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adjusted to suit the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, or the appearance to which the composition is to be packaged.

Preferably, the composition comprises less than 4% water, preferably less than 2% water. Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means in particular that water may not be added intentionally to the composition, but may be present in minor amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Hydrocarbon resin:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based resin.

Preferably, the resin (also known as tackifier resin) used in the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of less than 10 000 g / mol, especially 250 to 5000 g / mol, more preferably 2000 g / mol, And a number average molecular weight in the range of 2000 g / mol.

The number average molecular weight (Mn) is measured by gel permeation liquid chromatography (calibration curve established by THF solvent, refractive detector, linear polystyrene standards).

The resin of the composition according to the invention is advantageously a tackifying resin. Such resins are described, inter alia, in Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive, edited by Donatas Satas, 3rd edition, 1989, pp. 609-619.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resin is selected from low molecular weight polymers which can be classified according to the type of monomers it contains, as follows:

An indene hydrocarbon-based resin such as a resin derived from the polymerization of an indene monomer, preferably a major proportion, and a minor proportion of monomers selected from styrene, methylindene and methylstyrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins may have molecular weights ranging from 290 to 1150 g / mole.

An example of an indene resin that may be mentioned is Exxon Chem. Saga reference to Escorez 7105, Neville Chem. Sagar Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100, Sartomer to Norsolene S105, and Hercules to Picco 6100, and Resinall Corp. Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R-7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin, and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin sold under the name "Regalite" by the company Saga Resinall or sold under the name "Regalite" ;

Monomers selected from isoprene, butene, 2-methyl-2-butene, pentene and 1,4-pentane diene, and mixtures thereof, ). ≪ / RTI > These resins may have molecular weights in the range of 1000 to 2500 g / mole.

Such 1,3-pentane diene resins are commercially available, for example, from Eastman Chemical Company as reference Piccotac 95, Exxon Chemicals as Escorez 1304, Neville Chem as Nevtac 100, or Goodyear as Wingtack 95;

Mixed resins of pentane diene and indene derived from the polymerization of a mixture of pentane diene and indene monomers such as those described above, such as Exxon Chemicals, Inc., reference Escorez 2101, Neville Chem. Sagar Nevpene 9500, Hercules Hercotac 1148, Sartomer Norsolene A 100, and Goodyear's Wingtack 86, Wingtack Extra and Wingtack Plus resins,

- derived from the polymerization of a second monomer selected from cyclopentane dienes such as dicyclopentadiene, methyldicyclopentane diene and other pentane diene dimers, and mixtures thereof, and a first monomer selected from indene and styrene ≪ / RTI > diene resins of cyclopentane diene dimers. These resins generally have a molecular weight in the range of from 500 to 800 g / mole, for example from Arizona Chemical Co. Lt; / RTI > reference Betaprene BR 100, Neville Chem. Sakae Neville LX-685-125 and Neville LX-1000, Hercules by Piccodiene 2215, Lawter by Petro-Rez 200 or Resinall Corp. Saga is the ones that are being sold as Resinall 760;

- diene resins of isoprene dimers, such as terpene resins derived from the polymerization of one or more monomers selected from alpha -pinene, beta -pinene and limonene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may have molecular weights ranging from 300 to 2000 g / mole. Such resins are available, for example, under the name Piccolyte A115 and S125 by Hercules, or Arizona Chem. Saga is available under the name Zonarez 7100 or Zonatac 105 Lite.

Also, certain modified resins such as hydrogenated resins, such as those available from Eastman Chemical Co. Those sold under the name Eastotac C6-C20 Polyolefin, those sold under the reference Escorez 5300 by Exxon Chemicals, or Neville Chem. Piccotex 100 or Piccovar AP25 sold by Hercules, or resin SP-553 sold by Schenectady Chemical Co. may also be mentioned.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon resin is selected from the group consisting of an indene hydrocarbon resin, an aliphatic pentadiene resin, a mixed resin of pentane diene and indene, a diene resin of cyclopentane diene dimer and a diene resin of isoprene dimer, .

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds selected from hydrocarbon-based resins as described above, especially indene hydrocarbon-based resins and aliphatic pentadiene resins, or mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon resin is selected from an indene hydrocarbon resin.

According to one preferred embodiment, the resin is selected from hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene styrene copolymers.

Particularly preferred are those sold under the name Regalite by Eastman Chemical, such as Regalite R 1100, Regalite R 1090, Regalite R-7100, Regalite R 1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin. Can be used.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon resin is added to the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Advantageously, it is present in an amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight.

Hydrocarbon Block Copolymer:

The composition according to the present invention comprises, in addition to the resin, a hydrocarbon-based block copolymer (also known as a block copolymer), preferably a block copolymer soluble or dispersible in a liquid hydrocarbon-based phase as defined above.

The polymeric gelling agent may thicken or gel the hydrocarbon-based phase of the composition.

The term "amorphous polymer" means a polymer that does not have a crystalline form.

The polymeric gelling agent is also preferably film-forming, i.e. it can form a film upon application to the skin and / or the lips.

The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or a mixture thereof.

Such hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are described in patent applications US-A-2002/005 562 and US-A-5 221 534.

The copolymer may comprise one or more blocks having a glass transition temperature of preferably less than 20 占 폚, preferably not more than 0 占 폚, preferably not more than -20 占 폚, more preferably not more than -40 占 폚. The glass transition temperature of the block may be between -150 ° C and 20 ° C, especially between -100 ° C and 0 ° C.

The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer present in the composition according to the present invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by the polymerization of olefins. The olefin may in particular be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

Examples of olefins which may be mentioned are ethylene based carbide monomers comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene, in particular containing 1 or 2 ethylenic unsaturations. .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene and isoprene or mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturation after polymerization of the monomers.

In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer containing a styrene block and an ethylene / C ₃ -C ₄ alkylene block.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from the group consisting of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene / And at least one diblock copolymer. The diblock copolymer is in particular sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is preferably a copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymer, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymer and styrene-butadiene- Preferably at least one triblock copolymer selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated triblock copolymers. The triblock polymers are in particular sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® D1101, Kraton® D1102 and Kraton® D1160 by Kraton Polymers.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer, in particular a product sold by Kraton Polymers under the name Kraton G1657M Can be used.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene hydrogenated triblock copolymer and an ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated polymer, which mixture is especially isododecane or It can be present in other oils. Such mixtures are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Versagel® M5960 and Versagel® M5670 from Penreco.

Advantageously, diblock copolymers such as those described above, especially styrene-ethylene / propylene diblock copolymers, or mixtures of the diblock polymers and triblock copolymers described above, are used as polymeric gelling agents.

The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer (or the mixture of hydrocarbon-based block copolymers) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, ≪ / RTI >

More specifically, the weight ratio of the hydrocarbon-based resin to the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is 1 to 10. [

Preferably, the weight ratio of the hydrocarbon-based resin to the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is 1 to 8, more preferably 1 to 5.

Nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile" oil refers to an oil having a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure of less than 0 and less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil essentially consisting of or consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and free of silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohols, esters, ethers, carboxylic acids, amines and / or amide groups.

These hydrocarbon-based oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" is intended to mean an oil having _a solubility parameter δ _a at 25 ° C of 0 (J / cm 3) ^1/2 .

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are given in C.M. Hansen's article ["The three dimensional solubility parameters ", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- _D means the London dispersibility resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impact;

- δ _p means the Debye interaction force between the permanent dipoles, and also the Keesom interaction force between the induced dipole and the permanent dipole;

- δ _h means specific interaction forces (eg, hydrogen bonds, acids / bases, donors / receptors, etc.);

- δ _a is determined by the formula: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ² ) ^½ .

The parameters 隆_p , 隆_h , 隆_D and 隆_a are expressed by (J / cm 3) ^½ .

Preferably, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil can be selected from mineral or synthetic linear or branched hydrocarbons, as follows:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- squalane,

- isoeic acid,

- naphthalene oil,

Such as Indol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indol H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol) and Indol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) Polybutene,

- polyisobutene,

- Panalane H-300 E (MW = 1340 g / mole) manufactured or sold by Paroleam® or Amoco, a product of Nippon Oil Fats, Viseal 20000 (MW = 6000 g / mole) manufactured or sold by Syntheal, and Witco Or Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW = 1000 g / mol) on sale, or alternatively hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

-Decene / butene copolymer, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer, especially Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mole), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mole), or Puresyn 6, which is exclusively marketed by ExxonMobil Chemical, And

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is preferably polybutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene; Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes; ≪ / RTI > and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a nonvolatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) in an amount ranging from 5 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) in a total content ranging from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Nonvolatile silicone oil:

As indicated above, the compositions according to the present invention comprise a hydrocarbon-based resin composition as described above, comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based resin having a number average molecular weight of 10 000 g / mol or less, at least one hydrocarbon-based block polymer and at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon- And a silicone phase containing at least one nonvolatile silicone oil that is non-combustible.

Compatibility testing

For purposes of the present invention, the term "incompatible oil" is referred to as "incompatible" when forming phase separation according to the following protocol during mixing:

For less than a viscosity of from 25 ℃ 10 000 cPs (10 Pa.s ) oil, with the two oil to evaluate the conical tip which is located in the Vortex Genie 2 machine plastic centrifuge tube (ref. Corning ^® PET 15mL Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product # 430055)) at room temperature (at the weight ratio required for the composition). Agitation is carried out at a rate of 10 for 10 seconds, then the tubes are manually reversed prior to relocation to a Vortex machine. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then allowed to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.

If one or more of the oils has a viscosity of less than 10 000 cPs (10 Pa.s) at 25 ° C, a mixture of the two oils (5 g / 5 g) is preheated to 50 ° C Put in the oven for 30 minutes.

Thereafter, the mixture is observed.

If the mixture is separated into two phases and the separation of the two phases is clearly distinct at the interface, the phase is said to be "separated ", and the oil is thus incompatible.

In the opposite case, the mixture is observed at room temperature (about 25 캜) using a phase contrast microscope. When a dispersed phase and a continuous phase in the form of droplets are observed, the phase is said to be "separated ", and the oil is regarded as incompatible.

When only a single phase is identified through observation of the mixture, the phase is said to be "not separated ", and the oil is considered to be compatible.

The nonvolatile silicone oil (s) present in the composition according to the present invention may be selected from phenylated or nonphenylated nonvolatile silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment.

Nonvolatile phenylated silicone oil

The expression "phenylated silicone oil" or "phenyl silicone oil" means a silicone oil having one or more phenyl substituents.

The phenylated silicone oil may be selected from those having or not having one or more dimethicone fragments.

According to the present invention, dimethicone fragments correspond to the following units:

-Si (CH _{3) 2} -O-.

The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil may thus be selected from the following:

a) a phenyl silicone oil optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (I) : < EMI ID =

(Wherein the group R is monovalent or divalent and independently of one another represents methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one group R represents phenyl).

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least 3, such as at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6 phenyl groups.

b) a phenyl silicone oil optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II ) : < EMI ID =

(Wherein the groups R independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents phenyl).

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises three or more, for example, four or more, or five or more phenyl groups.

Mixtures of the different phenyl organopolysiloxane compounds described above may be used.

Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenylorganopolysiloxanes.

Of the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of phenylsilicone oils having no dimethicone fragment, more particularly corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or more than 5 radicals R represent phenyl radicals and the remaining radicals represent methyl can do.

Such a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane. These are especially available from Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane ) Or tetramethyltetraphenyl trisiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid.

They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III) and (III '):

(Wherein, Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl).

c) a phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (IV ) : < EMI ID =

(Wherein, Me represents methyl, y is 1 to 1000, X denotes a _{-CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (} Ph)).

d) phenylsilicone oil corresponding to formula (V), and mixtures thereof.

(Wherein:

R ₁ to R ₁₀ are independently of each other a linear, branched or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated,

m, n, p and q are independently of each other an integer from 0 to 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is other than zero.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is 1 to 100. Preferably, the sum m + n + p + q is 1 to 900, preferably 1 to 800. Preferably, q is zero.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ independently of one another are a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ , more particularly C ₁ -C ₁₆ alkyl, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , in particular a C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical in which the alkyl moiety is preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may especially be the same and may also be methyl radicals.

According to a first more specific embodiment of formula (V), mention may be made of:

i) a phenyl silicone oil optionally having one or more dimethicone fragments corresponding to formula (VI), and mixtures thereof:

(Wherein:

R ₁ to R ₆ are, independently of each other, a linear or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, preferably C and ₆ -C ₁₄ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical the alkyl part is a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl,

m, n and p are independently of each other an integer from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is from 1 to 100;

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ independently of one another are C ₁ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁ -C _20, and in particular C ₁ -C ₁₆ , alkyl radicals, or monocyclic (preferably C ₆ ) Or a polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ aryl radical, in particular a C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ , or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl moiety thereof is C ₆ aryl and the alkyl moiety is C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl).

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ may each represent methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radicals, or alternatively phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radicals.

R ₁ to R ₆ may in particular be the same and may also be methyl radicals. Preferably, in formula (VI), m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied.

According to one particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is selected from phenylated silicone oils having one or more dimethicone fragments.

Preferably, such an oil corresponds to a compound of formula (VI) as follows:

A) m = 0, and n and p are independently of each other an integer of 1 to 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably KF-54 from Shin Etsu, KF54HV from Shin Etsu, KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu, KF-53 from Shin Etsu or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu ≪ / RTI >

B) p is 1 to 100, the sum n + m is 1 to 100, and n = 0.

The phenylsilicone oil optionally bearing said at least one dimethicone fragment corresponds more particularly to the following formula (VII): < RTI ID = 0.0 >

(Wherein Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe ₃ , p is 0 or 1 to 1000, and m is 1 to 1000).

In particular, m and p are values that cause compound (VII) to be a nonvolatile oil.

According to a first embodiment of the nonvolatile phenylated silicone having one or more dimethicone fragments, p is from 1 to 1000, and m is more particularly a value such that compound (VII) is a nonvolatile oil. Trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone sold by Wacker under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 may be used, for example.

According to a second embodiment of the nonvolatile phenylated silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is 0 and m is a number from 1 to 1000, in particular such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

Particularly, phenyl trimethylsiloxane trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) may be used, for example.

ii) a nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (VIII): and mixtures thereof:

(Wherein:

- R independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical; More particularly, R represents an aralkyl radical which is a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₄ aryl radical, or an alkyl moiety C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl,

m and n are independently of each other an integer from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is from 1 to 100;

Preferably, R is, independently of one another, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ , in particular C ₁ -C ₂₀ , in particular C ₁ -C ₁₆ alkyl radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aryl part is C ₆ aryl, an aralkyl radical in which the alkyl portion is a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl preferred.

Preferably, each R may represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R may be particularly identical and may also be a methyl radical.

Preferably, in formula (VIII), m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied.

According to one preferred embodiment, in formula (VIII), n is an integer from 0 to 100 and m is an integer from 1 to 100, provided that the sum n + m is from 1 to 100. Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a composition having a viscosity at 25 ° C of 5 to 1500 mm ² / s (ie, 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably a viscosity of 5 to 1000 mm ² / s (ie, 5 to 1000 cSt) (VIII) can be used.

According to this embodiment, the nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably selected from phenyl trimethicone (when n = 0) such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, or diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone oil m and n ranges from 1 to 100, for example KF56 A from Shin Etsu, or Silbione 70663 V30 oil from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt). Values in parentheses indicate the viscosity at 25 ° C.

e) a phenyl silicone oil optionally having one or more dimethicone fragments corresponding to the formula: and mixtures thereof:

(Wherein:

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ , which may be the same or different, are alkyl radicals having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different from each other and are an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C ₆ -C ₁₄ ), provided that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is a phenyl radical ego,

X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p are an integer of at least one selected to provide an oil having a weight average molecular weight less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol, more preferably less than 100 000 g / mol.

f) and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile biphenylated silicone oil

The term "biphenylated silicone oil" or "biphenyl silicone oil" means a silicone oil not having a phenyl substituent.

Representative of these nonvolatile biphenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned are polydimethylsiloxane; Alkyl dimethicone; Vinyl methyl methicone; And also silicone modified with aliphatic groups and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

In particular, these oils can be selected from the following non-volatile biphenylated silicone oils:

- Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS),

PDMS comprising an alkyl or alkoxy group, each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, having an aliphatic group, in particular a pendant and / or at the end of the silicon chain. By way of example, Evonik Goldschmidt may refer to cetyl dimethicone, which is commercially available as a commercial reference, Abil Wax 9801.

PDMS comprising at least one aliphatic group and / or one or more functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups,

- Polysilonic acids modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylene, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile biphenylated silicone oil is preferably selected from non-volatile dimethicone oils.

Preferably, the non-volatile biphenylated silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane; Alkyl dimethicone; And / or one or more aliphatic groups, especially C ₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups and / or one or more functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

The biphenylated silicone oil may in particular be selected from the silicones of formula (I '):

(Wherein:

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p have a viscosity of from 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 ^-6 m ² / s) to 800 000 cSt (i.e., from 8 mPa.s to 720 000 mPa s) at 25 ° C. s).

Non-volatile biphenylated silicone oils that may be used in accordance with the present invention may include the following:

- the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, p and n are values which give a viscosity of 500 000 cSt (i.e. 450 000 mPa.s), for example those sold under the name SE30 by General Electric , A product sold under the name AK 500000 by Wacker, a product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by Bluestar, and a product sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt (i.e. 450 000 mPa.s) product,

- the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, p and n are values such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt (54 000 mPa.s), for example Dow Corning, name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60 000 CS Products sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by Wacker,

The substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group and p and n are values such that the viscosity is 100 cSt (i.e. 90 mPa.s) or 350 cSt (i.e. 315 mPa.s), for example Dow Corning products sold under the names Belsil DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS respectively,

- the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p each have a viscosity of 700 cSt (630 mPa.s), for example, Momentive, Baysilone Fluid T0.7 The product being sold under the name.

According to certain advantageous embodiments of the present invention, the silicone phase comprises two or more silicone oils selected such that the mixture is incompatible with the hydrocarbon-based phase.

In addition, nonvolatile silicone oils can be selected, without preference, from silicone oils that are compatible or non-compatible with each other.

Preferably, the silicone phase comprises at least one phenylated nonvolatile silicone oil that does not include a dimethicone fragment, and at least one phenylated or biphenylated silicone oil comprising a dimethicone fragment.

Moreover, according to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of non-volatile silicone oil (s) is in the range of 10 to 50 wt.%, Preferably 15 to 50 wt.%, Based on the weight of the composition.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the silicone phase comprises at least 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of a phenylated or biphenylated nonvolatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment.

Surfactants:

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one surfactant.

Preferably, the surfactant (s) is present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the surfactant (s) are selected from silicone surfactants.

Silicone surfactant

By way of example, a polyorganopolysiloxane comprising one or more saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or sulfur, wherein the hydrocarbon group comprises one or more hydroxyl, carboxyl, carboxylate, thiol , An amine, a sulfonate, a sulfate, a phosphate and / or a hydroxypolyethyleneoxy functional group.

More specifically, the organopolysiloxane may comprise at least one hydroxy-polyalkyleneoxy radical, in particular a hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy radical, as the hydrocarbon radical.

More particularly, the hydrocarbon radicals mentioned above may correspond to formula (II): < RTI ID = 0.0 >

(Wherein,

p is in the range of 0 to 5, q is in the range of 0 to 100, r is in the range of 0 to 50, p or q is other than 0,

- units (C ₂ H ₄ O) and (C ₃ H ₆ O) can be distributed randomly or in blocks,

X is hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more functional groups of the hydroxyl, thiol, amine, carboxyl, carboxylate, amide, phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate type.

In particular, p may range from 1 to 5, q ranges from 1 to 100, and r ranges from 1 to 50. X is more particularly a hydrogen atom.

More specifically, the organopolysiloxane may comprise at least one hydroxy-polyalkyleneoxy radical, in particular a hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy radical, as the hydrocarbon radical.

In particular, the organopolysiloxanes used in the composition according to the invention may correspond to formula (I)

(Wherein,

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ are independently of each other a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ To C ₆ alkyl radicals,

- HP is a radical bearing one or more hydrocarbon groups as defined above,

- LP is an oleophilic radical,

x ranges from 1 to 5,000; y ranges from 0 to 5,000; and z ranges from 0 to 5000).

With respect to the radical LP, it may in particular be selected from branched, cyclic or linear C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl, fluorine atoms, aryl or aryloxy radicals, C ₁ to C ₄₀ hydrocarbyl acyl and hydroxypropyleneoxy radicals .

The organopolysiloxane compound may be wholly or partially fluorinated. In particular, lower dialkylsiloxy groups may be substituted with one or more fluorine atoms.

According to a particular variant of the invention, the organopolysiloxane belongs to the class of dimethicone polyethylene glycols, in particular can be selected from the group comprising dimethicone copolyols, and more particularly can be selected from the following:

a) Products sold under the brand name Abil WE09 or Abil EM90 by Degussa-Goldschmidt;

b) Products sold by Shin-Etsu as reference KF-6017;

c) dimethicone copolyol, such as Dow Corning Corp. under the name of the product being sold ^® Q2-5220;

d) dimethicone copolyol benzoates, such as the product sold under the name Finsolv SLB 101 ^® or 201 ^{® by} Finetex;

e) Dow Corning Corp. for sale under the name ^® Q2-3225C of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixtures;

f) a mixture of such surfactants.

The composition may optionally comprise one or more additional hydrocarbon surfactants, more particularly those selected from nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants.

Preferably, the composition does not include such additional surfactants.

Additional oil:

Polar hydrocarbon oils:

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " polar oil " means an oil whose solubility parameter δ _a at 25 ° C is not 0 (J / cm 3) ^1/2 .

In particular, the hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile polar oils may be selected from the oils listed below and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;

-Ester oil, preferably selected from:

Especially fatty acid esters of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially octanoic, heptanoic, lanolic, oleic, lauric or stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

- synthetic esters such as those of the formula R ₁ COOR _{2 wherein} R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid moiety containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a saturated or unsaturated, It branched a represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, with the proviso that, R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 16 Im) of the oil, for example, buffer Celine (purcellin) oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl iso-no nano-benzoate, C ₁₂ To C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, Octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate; Preferably, the preferred synthetic ester R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid moiety containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₂ is selected from the group consisting of R ₄ and R ₂ ≥ 20, A hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 40 to 40 carbon atoms;

Linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelalgonate (MW = 697 g / mol);

- hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mole), isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, Octyldodecylhydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate; Diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- esters of alcohols and aromatic acids containing from 4 to 22 atoms, such as tridecyltrimellitate (MW = 757 g / mole);

(MW = 1033.76 g / mole), pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate (MW = 697 g / mole), glyceryl triethanolamine (MW = 1202 g / mole), isocyanurate, isostearate (MM = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate Branched alcohols such as polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate (MW = 1232 g / mole) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / ₂₄ -C ₂₈ ester,

Polyesters resulting from the esterification of one or more hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglycerides with aliphatic monocarboxylic acids and optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid sold by Zenitech under the reference Zenigloss and isostearic acid Castor oil;

- the general formula ^{HO-R 1 - (- OCO} -R 2 -COO-R 1 -) h -OH

(Wherein:

R ¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenating dirinoleic acid,

R ² represents hydrogenated dirinoleic acid residue,

and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9)

Of dimeric diol and diacid dimer of the ester, in particular Nippon Fine Chemical Inc. Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 are sold under the trade name of ^® diri linoleate discrete and di-linoleyl-diol esters of dimer,

Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers and diols, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular dininoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may be made of polymers sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dininoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and discrete dimers and esters thereof, for example Hailuscent ISDA;

Fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably branched, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl Alcohol;

- C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- vegetable oils such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol);

Fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid;

- dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ^{® by} Cognis, where the two alkyl chains may be the same or different; And

Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 (MW = 7300 g / mole) manufactured or sold by ISP.

Preferably, when at least one of these polar non-volatile oils is present, it is selected from ester oils.

Preferably, the ester oil has the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ wherein R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid moiety comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ comprises from 4 to 40 carbon atoms , In particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, with the proviso that R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 16).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of percelin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopenta Octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoate, decanoate But are not limited to, but are not limited to ricinoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, And one or more non-volatile ester oils selected from 2-diethylhexyl succinate.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from neopentanecarboxylic acid esters, preferably octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

Preferably, when the composition comprises more than one polar non-volatile oil, the total content is such that the weight ratio of polar oil (s) / non-polar oil (s) is less than 1, preferably less than 0.6.

Volatile oils:

While not representing a preferred example of the present invention, the composition may optionally comprise one or more volatile oils as an additional oil.

Such volatile oils can be, in particular, volatile hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) upon contact with the keratinous material.

The volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oil of the present invention have a vapor pressure in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), particularly 1.3 Pa to 13 000 (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), more particularly a vapor pressure in the range of from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg), or a cosmetic oil.

The oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or a fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.

In particular, volatile oils which may be mentioned are volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point of less than 80 DEG C (flash point in particular measured according to ISO standard 3679), for example hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms Based oils, in particular the following:

- minutes branched C ₈ -C ₁₄ alkanes, for example, (also known as isoparaffins also) C ₈ -C ₁₄ isoalkanes of petroleum origin, such as isododecane (also 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethyl heptane Isodecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,

- linear alkanes such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by the company Sasol as reference Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane Mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis's patent application WO 2008/155 059, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile solvent is preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

As other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly, volatile hydrocarbon oils having a flash point of 80 ° C or lower include ketones which are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; Mono-chain esters (including a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; Ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; Alcohols, in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

A volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having a flash point of greater than 80 ° C is isohexadecane.

Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight, of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention is devoid of volatile oils.

Additional fatty substances:

The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise those selected from one or more additional fat substances, more particularly wax and paste fat substances, or mixtures thereof.

Wax

As indicated above, the compositions according to the present invention may comprise one or more waxes.

The wax (s) contemplated in the context of the present invention are those which are solid at room temperature (25 占 폚), have a solid / liquid reversible phase change, have a melting point of at least 30 占 폚 and at most 200 占 폚, to be.

In particular, the wax suitable for the present invention may have a melting point of at least 45 캜, particularly at least 55 캜.

For the purposes of the present invention, melting points are defined in standard ISO 11357-3; Corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example a calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

Preferably, the wax has a fusion enthalpy? Hf of 70 J / g or more.

Preferably, the wax comprises at least one crystalline moiety that is visible by X-ray observation.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax in a crucible was applied at a heating rate of 10 캜 / min to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 캜 to 120 캜, followed by cooling at a cooling rate of 10 캜 / min from 120 to -20 캜 And finally applied to a second temperature rise ranging from -20 占 폚 to 120 占 폚 at a heating rate of 5 占 폚 / min. At the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:

- the melting point (Mp) of the above-mentioned wax corresponding to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak of the observation melt curve, which shows the variation of the difference in the absorbed force according to the temperature,

-? Hf: the enthalpy of fusion of the wax, corresponding to the integral value of the total melt curve obtained. The enthalpy of fusion of this wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. This is expressed in J / g.

The wax may have a hardness in the range from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, preferably from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness was measured at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / sec using a texture analyzer sold under the name TA-TX2i by Rheo Corporation, equipped with a stainless steel-steel cylinder of 2 mm diameter, and the wax was penetrated through the penetration depth of 0.3 mm And is measured by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 占 폚.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a wax content of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a wax content of 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-polar wax:

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar wax" means a wax having _a solubility parameter δ _a of 0 (J / cm 3) ^1/2 at 25 ° C. as defined above.

The non-polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and containing no heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" refers to a wax essentially consisting of, or consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and which does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohols, esters, ethers, carboxylic acids, amines and / or amide groups.

In particular, the expression "non-polar wax" means a wax consisting solely of a non-polar wax, rather than a mixture that may include other types of wax other than apolar wax.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based apolar wax.

Preferably, the wax is selected from waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Ozokerite that can be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.

Microcrystalline waxes that may be used include Microwax HW ^® and Base Wax 30540 ^® sold by Multiwax W445 ^® and Paramelt, both of which are sold by Sonneborn.

Mention may in particular be made of polyethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ^® , 220 ^® , 220L ^® and 250S ^{® by} the company Micro Powders.

Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.

Polymethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Polymethylene Wax sold by Cirebelle under the reference Cirebelle 303 sold by Cirebelle; Includes Polymethylene Wax (80 ° C) sold by reference Cirebelle 108.

Polar wax

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the non-polar wax, one or more polar waxes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax having _a solubility parameter delta _a at 25 DEG C of not 0 (J / cm3) ^1/2 .

In particular, the term "polar wax" means a wax consisting essentially of or consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms in chemical structure and containing one or more highly electronegative heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atoms.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are given in C.M. Hansen's article ["The three dimensional solubility parameters ", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- _D means the London dispersibility resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impact;

- δ _p means the Debye interaction force between the permanent dipoles, and also the Keesom interaction force between the induced dipole and the permanent dipole;

- δ _h means specific interaction forces (eg, hydrogen bonds, acids / bases, donors / receptors, etc.);

- δ _a is determined by the formula: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ² ) ^½ .

The parameters 隆_p , 隆_h , 隆_D and 隆_a are expressed by (J / cm 3) ^½ .

The polar wax may in particular be a hydrocarbon-based fluoro or silicone wax.

Preferably, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.

The term "silicone wax" means an oil comprising one or more silicon atoms, especially comprising an Si-O group.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As the hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax selected from an ester wax and an alcohol wax is particularly preferable.

According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester functional group.

According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e. containing at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

As ester waxes, in particular the following can be used:

Ester waxes such as those selected from:

i) R ₁ COOR _{2 wherein} R ₁ and R ₂ may vary from 10 to 50 atoms and may contain heteroatoms such as O, N or P and have a melting point of from 25 캜 to 120 캜 Waxes of varying linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains. In particular, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, wherein the alkyl group contains from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, or C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -alkyl stearate, alone or as a mixture, Can be used. These waxes are sold under the name Kester Keunen, Kester Wax K 82 P ^® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® , Kester Wax K 80 P ^® or Kester Wax K82H.

It is also possible to use glycols such as wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) sold by Clariant.

ii) Heterene Inc. are sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S ^®, bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra stearate.

iii) the general formula ^{R 3 - (- OCO-R} 4 -COO-R 5) ( wherein, R ³ and R ⁵ are the same or different, and preferably equal to, C ₄ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups (4 to 30 R ⁴ is a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₃₀ aliphatic group (an alkyl group containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups, Diester waxes of dicarboxylic acids, preferably linear and unsaturated.

iv) hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut Yukwa like, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ obtained by the catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having a fat chain waxes, and also Sophim Saga Phytowax Ricin 16L64 ^® and the like for sale under the name of 22L73 ^®, obtained by the significant hydrogenation esterified castor by cetyl alcohol wax (such waxes are listed in the patent application FR-a-2792190), and Phytowax Olive Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name 18 L 57, and the like.

v) wax, synthetic wax, polyglycerolized wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto glass wax, Wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, lacquer wax; Montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition comprises a polar wax, it is a candelilla wax.

Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include, for example, New Phase Technologies waxes Performacol 550-L Alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

If the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar wax, in particular a polar hydrocarbon wax, the polar wax (s) / non-polar wax (s) weight ratio is less than 1, preferably less than 0.4, , The weight ratio is in the range of 0.05 to 0.4.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of polar wax.

Pasty fat substance

The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more solid fat materials selected from paste fatty materials having a melting point of from 20 to 60 캜, preferably from 23 to 60 캜.

For purposes of the present invention, the term " pasty fat material "refers to an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state and includes a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 20 캜, preferably 23 캜, Quot; is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes < / RTI >

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 20 캜, preferably less than 23 캜. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 20 占 폚, preferably 23 占 폚, may represent from 1 to 97% by weight, preferably from 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. The liquid fraction at 20 占 폚, preferably 23 占 폚 preferably represents 15 to 85% by weight, more preferably 40 to 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the present invention, melting points are defined in standard ISO 11357-3; Corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in < RTI ID = 0.0 > The melting point of the paste or wax may be measured using a differential calorimeter (DSC), for example a calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (depending on the case) in the crucible was applied to a first temperature rise from -20 캜 to 100 캜 at a heating rate of 10 캜 / min, followed by a cooling rate of 10 캜 / To -20 캜, and finally to a second temperature rise from -20 캜 to 100 캜 at a heating rate of 5 캜 / min. At the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference between the powder absorbed by the crucible and the crucible containing the sample of the paste or wax is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is a temperature value corresponding to the apex of a curve peak showing variation of the absorbed powder as a function of temperature.

The liquid fraction based on the weight of the pasty compound at 20 캜, preferably at 23 캜, is equal to the ratio of the fusion heat consumed at 20 캜, preferably 23 캜, to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat that the compound consumes to go from a solid state to a liquid state. Pastable compounds are said to be in a solid state when their entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The paste-like compound is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in a liquid state.

The fusing heat of the pasty compound is measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) such as a calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 ° C per minute or 10 ° C per standard ISO 11357-3: 1999 And the area under the curve of the obtained thermal analysis chart. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid state to a liquid state. This is expressed in J / g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 20 캜, preferably 23 캜, is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from a solid state to a state at 20 캜, preferably 23 캜, comprising the liquid fraction and the solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 캜 preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight, preferably 50 to 100% by weight, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pastable compound measured at 32 占 폚 is 100%, the end temperature of the melting point range of the pastable compound is 32 占 폚 or less.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 占 폚 is the ratio of the fusion heat consumed at 32 占 폚 to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The fusion heat consumed at 32 캜 is calculated in the same manner as the fusion enthalpy consumed at 20 캜 or 23 캜.

The paste-like compound may be selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. Pastable fatty substances can be obtained by synthesis from the starting materials of plant origin.

The paste fatty material is advantageously selected from the following:

Lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohols, oxyethylenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate and oxypropylenated lanolin,

Polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, for example polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy type side chains comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicone,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular:

- olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

Linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably comprising C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

- oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

- oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

A lipid soluble polyether resulting from polyetheration between one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀₀ , preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,

- esters and polyesters, and

- mixtures thereof.

The paste-like fatty material may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon-based polymer.

A preferred silicone and fluoropaste fats material is polymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyldimethylsiloxane, manufactured by Shin-Etsu under the designation X22-1088.

When the paste fatty material is a silicone and / or fluoropolymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as a short chain ester, such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

Of the oil-soluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkylene oxides can be mentioned. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5/95 to 70/30. In this class, a block copolymer comprising a C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkylene oxide block having a molecular weight in the range of from 1000 to 10 000, for example, dodecanediol 22 available from Akzo Nobel under the brand name Elfacos ST 9 Moles) and ethers of polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or OE units). The term " polyoxyethylene / poly (dodecylene glycol) block copolymer "

Of the esters, the following are particularly preferred:

Esters of glycerol oligomers, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular glycerol, in which part of the hydroxyl groups are reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid Condensates of diphasic acid and glycerol, especially those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol, for example;

- Phytosterol esters,

- pentaerythritol ester,

- esters formed from:

One or more C _16-40 alcohols, one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol, and

- discrete dimers formed from one or more unsaturated C _18-40 fatty acids,

For example, tall oil with 36 carbon atoms and i) esters of a mixture of Guerbet alcohol with 32 carbon atoms and behenyl alcohol with a fatty acid dimer; Esters of linoleic acid dimer with a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl octadecanol (having 32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl eicosanol (having 36 carbon atoms);

- unconjugated polyesters resulting from polycondensation of linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols or polyols,

- polyesters resulting from the esterification between polycarboxylic acids and esters of aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acids, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H sold by Kokyo Alcohol Kogyo, Japan, which are commercially available as di- or isostearic acid and hydrogenated castor Lt; / RTI >ester); And

- fatty acid esters of esters resulting from esterification between esters of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acids and aliphatic carboxylic acids, for example those sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by Nisshin Oil.

Guerbet alcohols are reaction products of the Guerbet reaction and are well known to those skilled in the art. Is a reaction that converts primary aliphatic alcohols to? -Alkyl dimer alcohols with the loss of one equivalent of water.

The aliphatic carboxylic acid described above usually contains 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferably hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic, tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecanoic, , Heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoaracidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.

The esters of aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acids advantageously have from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups , Preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The esters of the aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acids are particularly chosen from:

a) a partial or complete ester of a saturated linear monohydric aliphatic monocarboxylic acid;

b) Partial or complete esters of unsaturated monohydric aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

c) Partial or complete esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

d) Partial or complete esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

e) a partial or complete ester of a C ₂ to C ₁₆ aliphatic polyol reacted with a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid, and

f) mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic esters of esters are advantageously selected from the following:

Esters resulting from the esterification reaction of isostearic acid with 1: 1 (1/1) ratio of hydrogenated castor oil, known as hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,

Esters resulting from the esterification reaction of 1: 2 (1/2) hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid, known as hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,

Esters resulting from the esterification reaction of 1: 3 (1/3) hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid, known as hydrogenated castor oil free triisostearate, and

- mixtures thereof.

When the composition comprises one or more of the above types of compounds, its content is from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Dyestuff:

The compositions according to the present invention may preferably comprise one or more dyes (also known as colorants) which may be selected from water-soluble or oil-soluble dyes, pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise water-soluble and finely divided dyes such as pigments, nacreous layers and one or more dyes selected from glitter flakes well known to those skilled in the art.

The dye may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

The term "pigment" shall be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles insoluble in aqueous solution for coloring and / or opacifying the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As the mineral pigments usable in the present invention, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate can be mentioned.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such pigments are commercially available, for example, from Chemicals and Catalysts, Inc. as reference Coverleaf NS or JS, with a contrast ratio in the area of 30.

The pigment may also comprise a pigment of a structure which may be, for example, a silica microspheroid containing iron oxide. An example of such a pigment is the product sold under the reference PC Ball PCLL-100 P by Miyoshi, which is made of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Of the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine or rake based on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum or alternatively EP- A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in WO-A-96/08537.

The term "nacreous" is understood to mean any type of colored particle, which may or may not be a prismatic light, in particular produced by the shell of a mollusk, or alternatively synthesized, do.

The nacreous layer may be a nacreous layer pigment such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dye, and also a nacre layer based on bismuth oxychloride And can be selected from the cast pigments. They may also be mica particles in which two or more successive layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye are superimposed on the surface.

Examples of nacreous layers that may be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Among the commercially available nacres that can be mentioned are the nacreous Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica based) sold by Engelhard, the Timiron nacrite sold by Merck, the Prestige nacrite on the mica market sold by Eckart, and the synthetic mica base sold by Sun Chemical There is Sunshine Pearl on top.

The pearl layer may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or light.

Illustrative examples of nacreous layers that may be used in the context of the present invention include, in particular, Engelhard under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) Gold nacre for sale; A bronze pearl layer sold by Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); Particularly the orange nacre which Engelhard sells under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (Microna); Especially the brown pearl layer sold by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); A nacreous layer of copper light sold by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); In particular, the nacre layer with a red light sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); In particular, the yellowish nacre layer being sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); In particular, Engelhard has a gold-colored red nacre layer sold under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); Especially the pink nacre which Engelhard sells under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); Engelhard's Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica) is a black-colored nacre with a golden light; Especially the blue nacre layer sold by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); A silver-colored white nacre layer sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver; And gold-green-pink-orange nacelle sold by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

The term "pigment" should be understood to mean a compound that is generally organic, soluble in a fatty substance such as oil or an aqueous alcohol.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain a water-soluble or oil-soluble pigment. Examples of the oil-soluble dye include Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,? -Carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble coloring matter is, for example, bit juice or methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more materials having specific optical effects as dyes.

This effect differs from the unified and stabilized effect produced by conventional simple hue effects, i. E., Standard dyes, such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that the effect of color variability is insufficient, corresponding to the observation angle or alternatively to the temperature change.

For example, the material may be selected from particles having metallic shine, goniocromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, fluorescent brighteners, and also fibers, especially interfering fibers. Of course, these various materials can be combined to provide for simultaneous expression of two effects, or even novel effects according to the present invention.

Fillers:

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise one or more filler (s).

The term "filler" should be understood to mean any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particle that is insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is prepared. These fillers particularly serve to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

The filler may be inorganic or organic and may be of any type, plate, spherical or elliptical type, irrespective of the crystallographic form (e.g., layered, cubic, hexagonal, Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Benton, optionally hydrophilic-hydrophobic or treated fumed silica, polyamide (Nylon ^®) powder (Orgasol ^® Atochem Inc.), poly -β- alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene Polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres such as, for example, Expancel ^® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres such as, for example, Teflon ^® powder, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, specific (Dow Corning Corporation Polytrap ^®) and silicone resin microbeads (for example, Toshiba Corporation Tospearls ^®), needle type calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxyapatite, concrete hollow silica minute (Maprecos's silica bead ^®), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, and glass or ceramic microcapsules, and from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon Organic carboxylic acid derived from the metallic soap, containing atoms for example can be mentioned zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

They may also be particles comprising a copolymer comprising trimethylolhexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyl lactone. Such particles are commercially available under the name of particular example Toshiki's Plastic Powder D-400 ^® or Plastic Powder D-800 ^®.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more fillers, especially those selected from optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated, preferably hydrophobic-treated, fumed silica particles. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one filler known as silica dimethylsilylate (according to CTFA).

The hydrophobic group may in particular be a dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane group, which is obtained in particular by treatment of the fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica thus treated is known as silica dimethylsilylate according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). For example, Degussa as Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974®, and Cabot as Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720®.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

additive:

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise any ingredient commonly used as an additive in cosmetics and skin science.

These additives are advantageously selected from antioxidants, thickeners, sweeteners, basic or acidifying preservatives, and mixtures thereof, advantageously selected from those set forth in Table 1 of the Codex Alimentarius.

As antioxidants, the compositions according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one pentaerythritol di-t-butylhydrocinnamate.

The composition according to the invention may also contain a spice and / or flavoring.

Cosmetic active agents which can be used in the present invention include sunscreen agents, vitamins A, E, C and B3, provitamins such as D-Panthenol, sedatives such as alpha -bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or essential oils, Preservatives or restructuring agents, refreshing agents such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-wrinkle activators and essential fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of each of these various components is generally used in the field, for example, in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV-blocking agent selected from ethylhexyl salicylate and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one of the additional compounds selected from dyes, pasty fat materials, film-forming polymers, fillers, activators and sunscreens.

Of course, one of ordinary skill in the art will be able to select these or any optional additional compound (s) and / or amount thereof so that the beneficial properties of the composition according to the present invention are not, or are substantially unaffected by, the sphere-addition.

The composition according to the invention is in solid form.

In particular, it can be a cosmetic for the skin or the lips, preferably for the make-up of the lips.

Preferably, it is lip balm and / or lipstick.

The product may preferably be in the form of a stick or cast into a jar or dish.

According to one preferred embodiment, it is a lip balm in the form of a lipstick or a stick.

Protocol for measuring hardness

The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:

Store the lipstick at 20 ° C for 24 hours before measuring hardness.

The hardness was measured by using a solid tungsten wire of 250 [mu] m diameter by moving the wire against the stick at a rate of 100 mm / min to cut the product in a wand- Quot; cheese wire "method at 20 < 0 > C.

The sample hardness of the compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm < ^{-1 &} gt ;, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average (expressed in Y) of the three values read in the aforementioned tensile tester is given in grams. After converting this average to Newton, divide it by L, which represents the longest distance the wire travels. For a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted to Nm < ^-1 > by the following equation:

(Y x 10 ^-3 x 9.8) / L

For measurements at different temperatures, keep the stick at the new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement.

According to this measurement method, according to the first embodiment, the composition according to the present invention has a hardness at 20 캜 and atmospheric pressure of preferably 40 Nm ^-1 or more.

According to one particular embodiment, the hardness at 20 DEG C and atmospheric pressure is at least 60 Nm < ^{-1 &} gt ;.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention in particular, according to the first embodiment, has a hardness of from 500 Nm ^-1 or less, particularly 400 Nm ^-1, preferably less than 20 ℃ less than 300 Nm ^-1.

Preferably, the composition has a hardness of 60 to 150 Nm < ^{-1 &} gt ;.

"To" and "to range" are to be understood to include their boundary values.

The following examples are presented as non-limiting examples.

Unless otherwise stated, the values in the following examples are expressed as percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1:  Stick-shaped lipstick

A stick-shaped lipstick of the following composition was prepared.

Composition manufacturing protocol:

1. Add wax, paste compound, hydrocarbon oil, surfactant, block copolymer and resin (preliminarily dispersing the hydrocarbon oil in advance while partially warming the hydrocarbon oil) to the beaker, raise the temperature to 100 ° C, .

2. When the mixture is smooth and homogeneous, the mixture of silicone oil is added slowly while stirring is increased greatly, and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.

3. Pigments previously ground in at least a portion of the polar oil are then added to the resulting mixture.

4. Lower the temperature to 90 ° C.

5. Pour the composition into a pre-siliconized mold at 42 ° C.

6. Remove the product from the mold at 4 ° C.

evaluation

Surfactant-free formulations have a silicone edge around the center and periphery, showing the mutual incompatibility of the various constituents, which is an obstacle to the production of the correct product.

Each composition (composition according to the invention and the comparative composition) was applied to the half-lips.

After 2 hours, the color of the half-lips applied with the comparative composition was apparently less than that of the composition according to the invention.

As a result, the composition according to the present invention improves color persistence.

Claims (21)

Among the physiologically acceptable medium,
At least one hydrocarbon-based phase comprising:
- at least one hydrocarbon-based resin having a number average molecular weight of 10 000 g / mol or less,
At least one hydrocarbon-based block polymer,
- at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil,
At least one silicone phase comprising at least one nonvolatile silicone oil which is non-volatile and compatible with said hydrocarbon-based phase, and
At least one surfactant
For the make-up and / or care of the skin and / or the lips. The process according to claim 1, wherein the resin is selected from the group consisting of preferably hydrogenated, indene hydrocarbon based Lt; / RTI > resin. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrocarbon resin is an indene resin selected from hydrogenated indene / methyl styrene / styrene copolymer. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrocarbon-based resin is present in the range of 1 wt% to 45 wt%, preferably in the range of 1 wt% to 30 wt% Is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight. 5. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is selected from the group consisting of polymerized ethylenic carbide monomers comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 1 or 2 ethylenic unsaturation ≪ / RTI > wherein the composition is an amorphous copolymer. 6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer comprises at least one block comprising at least one styrene block and units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene and isoprene or mixtures thereof . 7. The block copolymer according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is selected from the group consisting of styrene-ethylene / propylene, styrene-ethylene / butadiene, styrene-ethylene / Wherein the composition is selected from hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene, styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene and styrene-butadiene-styrene triblock copolymers and mixtures thereof. The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / / RTI > 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition ≪ / RTI > is present in the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the weight ratio of the hydrocarbon-based resin to the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 8, . 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the non-polar hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil is selected from:
- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,
- squalane,
- isoeic acid,
- naphthalene oil,
- polybutene,
- polyisobutene,
- hydrogenated polyisobutene,
-Decene / butene copolymer and polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer,
- polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, and
- mixtures thereof. 12. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the non-polar hydrocarbon nonvolatile oil is selected from the group consisting of polybutene; Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene; Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes; ≪ / RTI > and mixtures thereof. 13. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein the content of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) is from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% To 60% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 50% by weight. 14. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the silicone oil (s) which are incompatible with the hydrocarbon-based phase are selected from phenylated or non-phenylated nonvolatile silicones optionally having a dimethicone fragment ≪ / RTI > 15. The silicone composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the silicone phase comprises two or more silicone oils selected so that the mixture is incompatible with the hydrocarbon-based phase, preferably one or more silicone oils not containing a dimethicone fragment Wherein the composition comprises at least one phenylated or biphenylated silicone oil comprising a phenylated non-volatile silicone oil and a dimethicone fragment. 16. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the content of non-volatile silicone oil (s) is from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% % ≪ / RTI > by weight of the composition. 17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the content of phenylated or biphenylated nonvolatile oil comprising dimethicone fragments is at least 5% by weight based on the weight of the composition. 18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the surfactant is selected from non-ionic silicone surfactants. 19. The composition of claim 18, wherein the surfactant content is from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly from 1% to 10% %. ≪ / RTI > 20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it comprises an additional hydrocarbon-based oil selected from polar hydrocarbon-based oils. 20. A method of make-up for the make-up and / or care of the skin and / or lips, comprising application to the skin and / or lips of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20.