KR20090126031A - Preparing method of powder color cosmetic using w/o emulsion as binder - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A method for producing makeup cosmetic composition using water in oil emulsion as a binder is provided to express beautiful pearl with stability. CONSTITUTION: A method for producing a powder makeup cosmetic ingredient comprises: a step of mixing 60-90 weight parts of oil phase ingredient and 10-40 weight parts of water to obtain water in oil emulsion binder; a step of mixing 20-35 weight parts of binder 65-80 weight parts of powder ingredient containing powder and pigment; and a step of volatilizing water. The oil phase ingredient is mineral oil, triethylhexanoin, hydrogenated polydecene, or hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan olivate. The cosmetic ingredient is eye shadow, blusher, two way cake or pact.

Description

Preparation method of powder color cosmetic using W / O emulsion as binder}

The present invention relates to a powdery color cosmetic composition, in particular, a method for producing an eye shadow, while containing a large amount of pearl molding stability is secured, powder blowing phenomenon is reduced, and relates to a manufacturing method of a cosmetic composition that is light and smoothly adhered.

In the conventional color cosmetic composition, as a binder, hydrocarbon-based, ester-based and silicone-based oils are generally used, and waxes and paste-based polymer oils are sometimes used. Therefore, powder powder color cosmetics can be divided into press formulations and cream formulations. However, conventional press formulations have disadvantages of long-lasting pulverization and color, and in the case of oil cake formulations, the contents are caught in double gully lines or oil. There is a disadvantage that the greasy feeling remains.

In the case of cream formulation eyeshadow, there is a drawback that a very oily feeling occurs when the wax or oil is excessively contained, and when a large amount of oil binder is included in the general press formulation, caking or greasing may occur. Can be. On the contrary, when less oil is contained, constraints such as molding stability occur. Efforts to remedy these shortcomings in color cosmetics are the most in demand in eye shadow and blusher formulations.

In particular, the latest makeup trends demand bright colors and strong pearls. Therefore, as the eye shadow of the conventional press formulation, there is a lot of difficulty in prescribing the content of the pearl because there is a constraint on the molding stability when maximizing the content of the pearl. In addition, there is a problem in that the moist and soft feeling of use is reduced when a large amount of the binder in the oil phase or wax phase as in the prior art is improved.

Therefore, the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to solve the hard texture and powder blowing of the existing press formulation at the same time, while containing a large amount of pearl and / or pigment components, ensuring molding stability, reducing the powdering phenomenon, light and smooth adhesion To provide a method for producing a powdery color cosmetic composition, in particular an eye shadow composition having a moist and soft feeling.

A more specific technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a method for producing an eyeshadow composition having a light and soft adhesion while minimizing molding stability and powder blowing while maximizing the content of pearl which is the biggest object of the eyeshadow.

In order to achieve the above technical problem, the present invention comprises the steps of preparing a water-in-oil emulsion by mixing 60 to 90 parts by weight of oil phase components and 10 to 40 parts by weight of water with a binder (S1); (S2) mixing 20 to 35 parts by weight of the binder with 65 to 80 parts by weight of a powder component including powder and pigment; And (S3) volatilizing the water contained in the mixture (S2).

Conventional powdery color cosmetics, such as eye shadow, blusher, powder foundation, two-way cake, compact, etc. The binder mainly used oils such as hydrocarbon-based, ester-based, silicone-based, but the present invention uses only such oils By using water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion as a binder, it improves the stability of color cosmetics, gives moist spreadability that powder products did not provide, and the surface texture is brighter than conventional formulations and the effect of pearl It has a formulation characteristic that can be visualized. In particular, such a formulation characteristic is best shown in eye shadow pursuing bright and strong pearly, and overcomes the disadvantages and limitations of the conventional press formulation.

More specifically, in the conventional press formulation, the content of pearl could be used at least 20 to 50 parts by weight for reasons of moldability, but the content of pearl could be up to 75 by applying water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion as a binder. By improving the weight part, it can satisfy both the strong pearly appearance on the exterior and the bright pearly color on the inside, and it is the first to apply moist spreadability by applying water-in-oil emulsion. Can be.

In addition, the conventional press-type eye shadow has a disadvantage in that the color and pearl color are easily erased, so that the color is not preserved for a long time. In the newly developed formulation, the color and pearl color are not easily erased, so the color remains all day long. The adhesion and fit to the skin in the existing press formulations are highly dependent on the type and content of the pearl, but the newly developed new formulation is also characterized by excellent adhesion and fit regardless of the type and content of the pearl.

Hereinafter, the manufacturing method of powder powder color cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention uses a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion in order to develop a formulation that combines only the advantages of cream formulations and powder press formulations, and manufacturing and molding water in water-in-oil emulsions It is based on the surprising discovery that the process of volatilization in the finished semi-finished state can produce powdery tint cosmetics that maximize the content of pearls and smoothly adhere without the powder.

Therefore, the present invention is to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion binder by mixing (S1) 60 to 90 parts by weight of the oil phase component and 10 to 40 parts by weight of water; (S2) mixing 20 to 35 parts by weight of the binder with 65 to 80 parts by weight of a powder component including powder and pigment; And (S3) volatilizing the water contained in the mixture (S2).

Mineral oil (Mineral Oil), triethylhexanoin (Hydrogenated polydecene), hydrogenated polyisobutene (Hydrogenated polyisobutene), sorbitan oleate (Sorbitan Olivate), Quarterim 18-Hectorite can be used, and mineral oil, triethylhexanoin, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (Hydrogenated polyisobutene) and the like are more preferable.

The water-in-oil emulsion used in the present invention is preferably made by mixing 60 to 90 parts by weight of an oil phase component and 10 to 40 parts by weight of water, and more preferably by mixing 70 to 80 parts by weight of an oil phase component and 20 to 30 parts by weight of water. desirable. When the water content is less than 10 parts by weight, the moist and soft texture, which is an intermediate texture between the cream formulation and the press formulation, is not realized, and the same shape as that of the conventional press formulation appears. In addition, when the content exceeds 40 parts by weight, the surface becomes hard and the amount of pick-up is remarkably reduced, resulting in a poor applicability, resulting in poor formulation value.

In the preparation of the emulsion, the surfactant is not particularly limited as long as it can be used for emulsification in the cosmetic field, for example, sorbitan sesquiisosterate, sorbitan olivate (Sorbitan Olivate) Additional components such as) may be included, and the present invention is not limited to the specific kind of such surfactant.

The water-in-oil emulsion used in the production method of the present invention is when powder powder color cosmetics are largely composed of two components of powder powder and emulsion, powder powder occupies 65 to 80 parts by weight and emulsion powder to 20 to 35 parts by weight. It is preferable. If the emulsion exceeds 35 parts by weight, the loose type slurry formulations are not formed, entangled with each other to form a ball-shaped formulation, which cannot be used in the next process of forming and drying, but also shows a formulation limit. In addition, when the emulsion is less than 20 parts by weight, the powder part is not sufficiently wetted with the emulsion, and thus the desired loose type slurry formulation is not formed.

In addition, in the process of molding and drying the powder powder color cosmetics prepared through the appropriate ratio of the powder portion and the emulsion, the drying temperature is preferably dried at about 4 hours to 8 hours at 50 ℃ to 75 ℃. If the drying temperature is less than 50 degrees, the drying efficiency is lowered, and if the drying temperature is higher than 75 degrees, the amount of volatilized water is rapidly increased, thus causing powder blowing and falling stability.

The present invention also provides powder color tone cosmetic composition prepared through the above production method. That is, the present invention is powder powder color cosmetic composition prepared using 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the water-in-oil emulsion is added as a binder, 20 to 35% by weight oil phase component; 60 to 70% by weight of a powder component comprising powder and pigment; And it provides powder powder color cosmetic composition comprising 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of water.

Powder powder color cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include a preservative, fragrance and the like within the range that does not impair the object of the present invention, the present invention is not limited to these components.

The method for preparing a cosmetic composition of the present invention is more preferable for preparing an eye shadow, blusher, two-way cake or fact formulation.

In addition, a high viscosity mixer (Hivis Mixer, TOKUKA KIKA), which is a new device, is more preferable than the Henschel mixer, which is commonly used to prepare a cosmetic composition by mixing two parts of the powder part and the emulsifying part. When using a new device, it is easy to form a loose type slurry formulation and to reduce manufacturing process problems such as entanglement with each other. More specifically, first, the powder part is put into a mixer equipped with an impeller having two axes rotating and rotating at about 2650 revolutions per minute, and a pre-fabricated water / oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) is added at a low speed of 10 RPM. It can be prepared by stirring for about 5 minutes (to prevent the scattering of the powder portion, wetting slowly) for about 3 minutes at 20 RPM and then 5 minutes at 45 RPM. This high viscosity mixer can also minimize the loss of pearls generated during the process.

Powder color cosmetic composition prepared by the manufacturing method according to the present invention shows the texture of the intermediate texture of the conventional cream formulation and the general press formulation improved the beautiful pearly feeling and color expression felt from the appearance, it is characterized by the soft adhesion without powdering And molding stability can be ensured.

Hereinafter, examples and the like will be described in detail to help understand the present invention. However, embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, the scope of the invention should not be construed as limited to the following examples. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more fully describe the present invention to those skilled in the art.

Example 1 Preparation of Water-in-oil Emulsified Binder

To prepare a water-in-oil emulsion binder according to the present invention according to the composition of Table 1. The method for preparing a binder of a water-in-oil emulsion used in the present invention was prepared in the same manner as a general method for preparing a water-in-oil emulsion. The viscosity is about 1000 ~ 2000 cps of day 25 ℃ viscosity was formed milky white.

Classification (unit: parts by weight) Example 1 Mineral oil Approximately 21.92 Triethylhexanoin 15.0 Dipentaerythryl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate (Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate / Hexasterate / hexarosinate) 16.0 Hydrogenated Polydecene 10.0 Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate 3.0 Methyl paraben 0.23 Profile paraben 0.15 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 8.0 Sorbitan Olivate 0.4 Quarterium 18-Hectorite 0.3 water 25.0

<Examples 2-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2> Preparation of powdery cosmetics

Powder-based cosmetic composition was prepared according to the composition of Table 2 using the water-in-oil emulsion binder prepared in Example 1.

For Examples 2 and 3 it was prepared as follows. Powder parts, such as silicon coating talc, silica, and pearl material, were uniformly mixed to form a powder part. Thereafter, the water-in-oil emulsion prepared in Example 1 was mixed with the powder part using a high viscosity mixer (HIVIS Mixer, TOKUKA KIKA) to prepare a powder cosmetic composition. Then, the cosmetic composition was dried at about 50 ° C. for about 2 to 3 hours to volatilize the water contained in the cosmetic composition.

Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that silicone oil, which is a conventional binder, was used instead of the water-in-oil emulsion binder according to the present invention. For Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are eyeshadow formulations of conventional press formulations.

division Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Silicone coated talc 21.1 6.6 48.3 38.3 Silica 7.0 - 5.0 5.0 Pearl ash 45.0 65.0 35.0 45.0 Water-in-oil emulsion binder 25.0 27.0 - - Silicon coated iron oxide 0.5 0.2 0.5 0.5 Nylon powder 1.2 1.0 3.0 3.0 antiseptic 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Silicone oil - - 8.0 8.0

Experimental Example 1 Evaluation of Cosmetics

The color expression power, the powder blowing phenomenon and the moldability of the eye shadow prepared in Examples 2 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were measured. Color expression and powder blowing were performed by Blind Test on 50 women aged 20 to 45 years and sensory evaluation was performed according to the evaluation criteria of Table 3. The results are shown in Table 4 below as average values. In addition, the measurement of the formability was measured three times each with a penetration hardness tester (JIS K 6301, ASKER Co.) and the average value is shown in Table 5 below.

Evaluation standard 5 Very good 4 Great 3 usually 2 Bad One Very bad

division Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Color expression 4.1 4.5 3.2 3.0 Powder blowing 4.0 4.1 3.5 3.8 Appearance Very good Very good usually usually

division Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Formability Good Good Good Good

Through the above Table 4, in the case of the eye shadow (Examples 2 and 3) applying the water-in-oil emulsion as a binder according to the present invention, the color expression power, which is the core quality attribute of the eye shadow, is higher than that of the conventional general press formulations (Comparative Examples 1 and 2). It was improved and the powder blowing phenomenon was found to be very improved. And it turned out that the beautiful pearly feeling in external appearance is significantly higher than the comparative examples 1 and 2. In addition, as shown in Table 5, the moldability of Examples 2 and 3 according to the present invention was excellent. From these facts, it can be seen that the eye shadow composition according to the present invention is strong in soft applicability and beautiful pearly feeling while securing molding stability.

Claims (7)

In the method of manufacturing powder powder color cosmetics, (S1) preparing a water-in-oil emulsion binder by mixing 60 to 90 parts by weight of the oily component and 10 to 40 parts by weight of water; (S2) mixing 20 to 35 parts by weight of the binder with 65 to 80 parts by weight of a powder component including powder and pigment; And (S3) volatilizing the water contained in the mixture (S2) A manufacturing method of powdery color tone cosmetics comprising the. According to claim 1, The oil phase component is a mineral oil (Mineral Oil), triethylhexanoin (Triethylhexanoin), Hydrogenated polydecene, Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Hydrogenated polyisobutene), Solbitanol Rebate (Sorbitan Olivate) and quaternium-18 hectorite (Quarterim 18-Hectorite), characterized in that any one or more selected from the group consisting of. The method of claim 1, wherein the content of water in the water-in-oil emulsion is 20 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cosmetic is an eye shadow, a blusher, a two-way cake or a fact. A powdery tincture cosmetic composition prepared by using 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of components to which water-in-oil emulsion is added as a binder. 20 to 35% by weight of the oil phase component; 60 to 70% by weight of a powder component comprising powder and pigment; And 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of water powder powder color cosmetic composition. The oil-based component of claim 5, wherein the oily component is mineral oil, triethylhexanoin, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan Powdered tonal cosmetic composition, characterized in that any one or more selected from the group consisting of rebate (Sorbitan Olivate) and quaternium-18 hectorite (Quarterim 18-Hectorite). The powder color tone cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the cosmetic is an eye shadow, a blusher, a two-way cake or a fact.