KR20060021045A - Cosmetic composition for promoting keratinization containing extract of mallotus japonicus as active ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for proliferating keratinocytes, a composition for differentiating keratinocytes, a composition for restoring a skin barrier, and a cosmetic composition for promoting skin keratinization, containing the extract of Yek-Tak as an active ingredient. Yeokdeok extract of the present invention is not only promotes proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, but also enhances the skin barrier function and is useful as a cosmetic composition for skin keratinization.

Wood, keratinocyte, skin keratin, cosmetic composition

Description

Cosmetic composition for promoting skin keratinization containing Yeok wood extract as an active ingredient {Cosmetic Composition for Promoting Keratinization Containing Extract of Mallotus japonicus as Active Ingredient}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for promoting skin keratinization.

The skin is the outermost tissue that protects our body. It protects against external stimuli (ultraviolet rays, pollutants, chemical stimulators) and protects the body from excessive release of moisture through the skin. At this time, the function of the stratum corneum consisting of keratinocytes becomes very important.

The outermost stratum corneum (horney layer) of the epidermis is formed from keratinocytes and consists of the differentiated keratinocytes and the surrounding lipid layer. Keratinocytes are cells that have a characteristic of rising to the surface of the skin through the morphological and functional changes of basal cells that continuously proliferate in the lower epidermis. After a period of time, the old keratinocytes are eliminated from the skin and the new keratinocytes take over their function. This repetitive process of change is called epidermal differentiation or keratinization. In general, such keratinization occurs every 28 days. If the skin ages or damages from the external environment, the skin does not smoothly come off, resulting in dull skin or skin problems.

Representative keratin-promoting cosmetics use fruit acids such as AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), which are excellent in their effects, but cause problems such as itching, itching and erythema on the skin, making them difficult to apply to cosmetics. Therefore, in recent years, by stimulating the addition of a stimulating substance with AHA to maximize the keratinizing effect while trying to develop a skin keratin promotion cosmetics in a way to minimize the skin irritation. In addition, on the other hand, much research is being conducted in the direction of finding natural products that have no side effects and have excellent effects in place of AHA.

Therefore, there is a demand for the development of a substance capable of minimizing skin irritation while maximizing the effect of promoting skin keratinization and cosmetics using same.

The present inventors have completed the present invention by discovering that the material extracted from Yek wood has excellent aggravation promoting effect and can be applied to cosmetics with little skin irritation as a result of intensive efforts to solve the above-mentioned needs of the art. .

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for proliferating keratinocytes containing the extract of Yek-Tak as an active ingredient.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a composition for differentiating keratinocytes containing Yeok-Tak extract as an active ingredient.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a composition for protecting skin barrier containing Yeon-Tak extract as an active ingredient.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition for promoting skin keratin containing the extract of Yek wood as an active ingredient.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description and claims.

According to one aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a composition for proliferating keratinocytes containing Yeok-Tak extract as an active ingredient.

According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a composition for differentiating keratinocytes containing Yeok-Tak extract as an active ingredient.

According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a composition for protecting the skin barrier, which contains Yeok tree extract as an active ingredient.

According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for promoting skin keratin containing the extract of Yek wood as an active ingredient.

The inventors of the present invention screened natural substances that activate keratinocytes as a method for enhancing the function of the epidermal layer, and found that the viola extracts were most suitable for the purpose of the present invention.

Yeokdeok ( Mallotus japonicus ) is a deciduous arborescent called aka Yao-dong or red baek (, 柏) and grows in the foothills and valleys of southern Korea. It can be as tall as 10 m, but it is usually shrub. In general, the bark of Yedeok tree is used as a supplement for gastric ulcer, gastritis and liver function.

In the present invention, the elder tree extract refers to an extract obtained from various organs or parts of the elder tree (eg, leaves, flowers, roots, stems, branches, bark and fruits, etc.), and preferably stems, branches, bark. Or extracts obtained from roots, more preferably branches, bark or roots, most preferably bark (ie bark).

Yeokberry extract of the present invention may be prepared according to conventional methods known in the art, i.e., under conventional conditions of temperature and pressure, using conventional solvents.

Yeokdeok extract, the active ingredient of the composition of the present invention is extracted using a solvent selected from the group consisting of water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3 butylene glycol Preferably, ethyl alcohol, even more preferably 80% to 100% ethyl alcohol. A suitable amount of the extraction solvent is 1-20 times the dry weight of the cedar tree, more preferably 1-10 times.

The wood extract of the present invention is prepared by a process comprising the following steps: (a) 1-10 times water, 1-4 anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohols, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate in wood. And adding a solvent selected from the group consisting of 1,3 butylene glycol; (b) extracting the solvent-added yeast tree of step (a) by heating at 40-100 ° C. for 3-20 hours or leaving it at 4-40 ° C. for 1-15 days; And (c) filtering and drying the components extracted in step (b).

According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the above extraction process is carried out as follows: First, the raw wood is washed, dried and crushed into small pieces, and then 90% ethyl alcohol is added to the dry weight of the wood. It is added in the volume ratio and placed in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser. Subsequently, the extract was heated and extracted at 70-90 ° C. for 5 hours, followed by filtration and left to mature at 5-10 ° C. for 7-10 days, followed by filtration to obtain Yeok-tree extract. When drying, a rotary vacuum evaporator is usually used. However, when 1,3-butylene glycol is used as an extraction solvent, it is difficult to use a rotary vacuum evaporator, so that the drying loss is 1% (w / v) through an appropriate drying method. It adjusts and uses it as a cosmetic composition.

On the other hand, Yeokdeok extract of the present invention includes not only the extract by the above-described extraction method, but also the extract that has undergone a conventional purification process. For example, through various purification methods additionally performed, such as separation using an ultrafiltration membrane having a constant molecular weight cut-off value, separation by various chromatography (manufactured for separation according to size, charge, hydrophobicity or affinity). The obtained fractions are also interpreted to be included in the yeast extract of the present invention.

Yeokdeok extract of the present invention may be prepared in a powder state by an additional process such as vacuum distillation and freeze drying or spray drying.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the content of the wood extract is 0.000001-20% by weight, preferably 0.0001-10% by weight, more preferably 0.001-5% by weight, most preferably based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably 2% by weight. At this time, when the total weight of Yeok wood extract is less than 0.000001%, the effect is hard to appear, and when 20% or more, it is highly likely to cause irritation to the skin, and may have a great influence on the stabilization of the formulation.

The ingredients included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention include ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the extract as an active ingredient, such as conventional auxiliaries such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and flavors, and Carrier.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in any formulation commonly prepared in the art, for example, solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing , Oils, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, wax foundations and sprays, and the like, but are not limited thereto. More specifically, it may be prepared in the form of a flexible lotion (skin), nourishing lotion (milk lotion), nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray or powder. .

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oils, vegetable oils, waxes, paraffins, starches, trachants, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silicas, talc or zinc oxide may be used as carrier components. Can be.

When the formulation of the present invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used, in particular in the case of a spray, additionally chlorofluorohydrocarbon, propane Propellant such as butane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solvent, solubilizer or emulsifier is used as the carrier component, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1 Fatty acid esters of, 3-butylglycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan.

When the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, liquid carrier diluents such as water, ethanol or propylene glycol, suspending agents such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters, and microcrystals are used as carrier components. Soluble cellulose, aluminum metahydroxy, bentonite, agar or tracant and the like can be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleansing, the aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyltaurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid as carrier components Amide ether sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, aliphatic alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable oils, lanolin derivatives or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters and the like can be used.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention promotes skin keratinization through excellent keratinocyte proliferation and keratinocyte differentiation promoting effect, and also exhibits a skin protection effect through a water loss reduction effect through skin barrier protection.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples in accordance with the gist of the present invention. .

Example 1 Preparation of Yeok Tree Extract

After washing with purified water and putting 1.2 L of 90% ethyl alcohol in 200 g of dry Yeok wood and extracted by heating at 70-90 ℃ for 5 hours in an extractor equipped with a cooling condenser. The extract was filtered through a 300 mesh filter cloth, and the filtrate was aged by standing at 5-10 ° C. for 7-10 days. The aged extract was again filtered using a 0.45 μm filter, and this filtrate was used in the present invention as a prunus extract.

Experimental Example 1 keratinocyte proliferation effect

Cell proliferation experiments were carried out using the yeast extract prepared in Example 1 to determine whether the yeast extract of the present invention has a keratinocyte proliferation effect.

Human keratinocytes (Korea Cell Line Bank) were seeded in each well of a 96-well microplate containing DMEM medium (Sigma Co., Ltd. USA) to a number of 1 × 10 ⁵ cells, followed by 37 Incubated for 24 hours at ℃. Next, preparing a medium in which the yeast tree extract prepared in Example 1 was added to a serum-free DMEM medium so as to have a final concentration of 0.1, 0.5, 1.0, and 2.0% (v / v), and then cultured keratinocytes. The cells were further incubated for 24, 48 and 72 hours in exchange for the culture medium. Serum-free DMEM medium containing no cedar extract was added as a control and further incubated for 24 hours, 48 hours and 72 hours. MTT ([3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) analysis was performed for each time period to measure the cell proliferation after incubation. The cell proliferation in each well was 570 nm. Absorbance was measured at and compared. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

Keratinocyte Proliferation Effect of Yeok-Duk Extract Yeok Tree Extract (%) Absorbance (570 nm) 0 hours 24 hours 48 hours 72 hours 0.0 0.754 0.765 0.789 0.798 0.1 0.765 0.789 0.812 0.835 0.5 0.756 0.798 0.856 0.912 1.0 0.746 0.801 0.878 0.986 2.0 0.778 0.832 0.912 1.021

* Each experiment is an average of three experiments.

As shown in Table 1, the addition of keratinocyte extract to keratinocytes causes the proliferation of keratinocytes, and the proliferation of keratinocytes increased with increasing treatment concentration of keratin extract and as the incubation time passed. And it was found.

Experimental Example 2: Keratinocyte differentiation promoting effect

According to the following method, the amount of corneocyte envelop generated during the differentiation of keratinocytes was measured in order to confirm whether the extract of the present invention is to promote the differentiation of keratinocytes.

After the primary cultured keratinocytes were put in a culture flask and attached to the bottom, the elderwood extract prepared in Example 1 was added to the culture solution at a concentration of 0.5, 1.0, and 2.0%, whereby Incubated for 3 days until -80% growth. At this time, it was used as a control that did not add yeok tree extract. The cultured cells were obtained and washed with phosphate buffered saline (PBS), followed by 2% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and dithiothreitol (DTT) at a concentration of 20 mM. 1 ml of 10 mM Tris-HCl buffer (Tris-HCl, pH 7.4) was added, sonicated, heated and centrifuged. The precipitate obtained by centrifugation was again suspended in 1 ml of PBS, and the absorbance was measured at 340 nm. Separately, a portion of the solution after the sonication was taken to measure the protein content, which was used as a reference for evaluating the degree of cell differentiation.

Enhancement of Keratinocyte Differentiation by Yeok-Tak Extract Yeok Tree Extract (%) Differentiation capacity (%) Control 100 0.5 105.9 1.0 123.5 2.0 145.6

As shown in Table 2, the yeast tree extract of the present invention has excellent keratinocyte differentiation ability as compared to the control group, and the cell differentiation ability increases as the treatment concentration of the yeast tree extract increases.

Experimental Example 3: Skin Barrier Restoration Effect

The effect of yeast extract on the restoration of skin barrier due to prolonged skin damage was evaluated. Acetone was applied twice a day for 5 days to young hairless mice (central laboratory animals, Hr / Hr) 8 to 10 weeks after birth to impair the skin barrier function of the mice. The moisture loss of the epidermis was then measured using a water evaporator (TEWA meter, Kolon, Germany). At this time, by adjusting 2% of the extract of the Yekwood tree was applied to the damaged skin, as a control was applied to 10% ethyl alcohol without the Yeokwood extract was measured for the degree of water loss over time.

Skin Barrier Restoration Effect of Yeok Tree Extract Aid group Transdermal moisture loss (g / ㎡ / h) 0hr 6hr 12hr 24hr No treatment 50.5 40.5 35.2 18.6 Control 49.8 39.2 30.5 17.5 Yeok Tree Extract 2% 49.9 30.6 21.3 10.2

As shown in Table 3, it was confirmed that the amount of percutaneous water loss in mice, etc., coated with Yeok-Tak extract was significantly reduced. This seems to be the effect of Yeok tree extract to reduce water loss by strengthening the skin's epidermal repair function.

Hereinafter, the example of the yeok wood extract containing the prescription through the following prescription example, but not all prescriptions are limited thereto.

Prescription example 1: flexible lotion

A prescription example of the flexible lotion in cosmetics containing Yeokduk extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 glycerin 5.0 1.3-butylene glycol 3.0 PEG 1500 1.0 Allantoin 0.1 DL-panthenol 0.3 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Benzophenone-9 0.04 Sodium hyaluronate 5.0 ethanol 10.0 Octicdodeceth-16 0.2 Polysorbate 20 0.2 Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Prescription 2: Convergence lotion

A prescription example of astringent lotion among cosmetics containing Yeokduk extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 glycerin 2.0 1.3-butylene glycol 2.0 Allantoin 0.2 DL-panthenol 0.2 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Benzophenone-9 0.04 Sodium hyaluronate 3.0 ethanol 15.0 Polysorbate 20 0.3 Witch hazel extract 2.0 Citric acid a very small amount Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Prescription example 3: nutrition lotion

Prescription example of nutritional lotion among the cosmetics containing Yeokdeok extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.5 Stearyl alcohol 1.5 lanolin 1.5 Polysorbate 60 1.3 Sorbitan stearate 0.5 Cured Vegetable Oil 1.0 Mineral oil 5.0 Squalane 3.0 Trioctanoine 2.0 Dimethicone 0.8 Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.12 glycerin 5.0 1.3-butylene glycol 3.0 Sodium hyaluronate 5.0 Triethanolamine 0.12 Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Prescription 4: Nutritional Cream

Prescription example of nutritional cream in cosmetics containing Yeok wood extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 Lipophilic monostearate 2.0 Stearyl alcohol 2.2 Stearic acid 1.5 Beeswax 1.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.6 Cured Vegetable Oil 1.0 Squalane 3.0 Mineral oil 5.0 Trioctanoine 5.0 Dimethicone 1.0 Sodium magnesium silicate 0.1 glycerin 5.0 Betaine 3.0 Triethanolamine 1.0 Sodium hyaluronate 4.0 Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Prescription 5: massage cream

A prescription example of a massage cream in cosmetics containing Yeokduk extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 Lipophilic monostearate 1.5 Stearyl alcohol 1.5 Stearic acid 1.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.6 Isostearyl Isosterate 5.0 Squalane 5.0 Mineral oil 35.0 Dimethicone 0.5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.12 glycerin 6.0 Triethanolamine 0.7 Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Prescription 6: Essence

Prescription example of the essence of cosmetics containing Yeokduk extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 glycerin 10.0 Betaine 5.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Allantoin 0.1 DL-panthenol 0.3 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Benzophenone-9 0.04 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 8.0 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.2 Triethanolamine 0.18 Octyldodecanol 0.3 Octyldodeceth-16 0.4 ethanol 6.0 Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Prescription 7: Pack

Prescription examples of packs containing cosmetic extracts are as follows.

ingredient Content (unit: weight%) Yeok Tree Extract 2.0 Polyvinyl alcohol 15.0 Cellulose gum 0.15 glycerin 3.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Cyclodextrin 0.15 DL-panthenol 0.4 Allantoin 0.1 Monomethylammonium Glycyric Acid 0.3 Nicotinamide 0.5 ethanol 6.0 PEG 40 Cured Castor Oil 0.3 Preservative, fragrance, coloring a very small amount Distilled water Remaining amount Sum 100

Experimental Example 4: Skin Aroma Promoting Effect of Yedo Tree Extract Containing Cosmetics

In order to confirm the effect of promoting the aroma of the cosmetics containing Yeok wood extract, the degree of skin abrasion was evaluated through a practical test. Since the skin color is improved when skin keratinization is induced, the effect of promoting skin keratinization was confirmed by measuring the change in brightness (ΔL) of the skin color. The nutritional cream of Formulation Example 4 containing 2% Yeok-Tak extract was used as the experimental group, and the cream replacing the Yeok-Tuk Extract contained in the nutrition cream of Prescription 4 with purified water was used as a control. Twenty 30-40 year old women were randomly divided into two groups and dyed with dansyl chloride in the two areas of the right upper arm.The creams of the experimental group (prescription 4 cream) and the control group were twice daily each morning and evening. I applied it. After 2 weeks, the change in skin color was measured using chromata (Minolta CR300), and the change in skin color was measured by objective visual observation by a plurality of skilled workers and subjective visual observation by a subject. It was. The results are shown in Table 11 below.

The degree of skin color change was evaluated by classifying it into the following seven grades:

-3: very worse, -2: worse, -1: slightly worse, 0: no change, 1: slightly improved, 2: improved and 3: very improved

Skin Aroma Promoting Effect of Cosmetics Aid group Change in L value (ΔL) 2 weeks past 4 weeks past Cream of prescription example 4 1.36 3.24 Control cream 0.65 1.23

As shown in Table 11, the test subject using the cosmetic of the present invention containing Yeok-Tak extract showed a higher skin keratinizing effect compared to the test subject using the control without YT-T extract. Moreover, skin irritation could not be observed in the subjects who apply the cosmetic of the present invention to the skin.

As described above, Yeokdeok extract of the present invention is not only excellent in promoting the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, the effect of restoring the skin barrier, but also excellent skin keratinization when applied directly to the skin by preparing a cosmetic containing it as an active ingredient It has a promoting effect. Therefore, the cosmetic composition containing Yeok wood extract can be usefully used in the manufacture of cosmetics for promoting keratinization.

Having described the specific part of the present invention in detail, it is apparent to those skilled in the art that the specific technology is merely a preferred embodiment, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Thus, the substantial scope of the present invention will be defined by the appended claims and equivalents thereof.

Claims (7)

A composition for proliferating keratinocytes containing the extract of Mallotus japonicus as an active ingredient. A composition for differentiating keratinocytes containing Yeok-Tak extract as an active ingredient. A composition for protecting the skin barrier containing Yeok-Tak extract as an active ingredient. Cosmetic composition for promoting skin keratin containing yeok wood extract as an active ingredient. The method of claim 1 or 4, wherein the wood extract is from the group consisting of water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and 1,3 butylene glycol A composition characterized in that it is extracted using a solvent of choice. 5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the yeast extract is contained in an amount of 0.000001-20.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 5. The group of claim 4 wherein the cosmetic composition consists of a solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, powder, soap, surfactant-containing cleansing, oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation and spray Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it has a formulation selected from.