KR20050010093A - anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing extracts of Curcumae radix and curcumin - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: Provided is an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing the extract of Curcumae radix and curcumin as a main ingredient of Curcumae radix. Therefore, the composition inhibits elastase and collagenase activities strongly and thus promotes the synthesis of collagen. CONSTITUTION: The cosmetic composition is characterized by containing 0.1-10 wt.% of the extract of Curcumae radix obtained by using at least one of water, hydrophilic organic solvent and their mixture; 1.0-10 wt.% of the extract of Curcumae radix obtained by using distilled water; 0.5-10 wt.% of the extract of Curcumae radix obtained by using ethanol; 0.01-10 wt.% of the extract of Curcumae radix obtained by using one of hexen, chloroform, and ethylacetate; or 0.01-10 wt.% of curcumin.

Description

Anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing extracts of Curcumae radix and curcumin}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for wrinkle improvement, and more particularly, to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing curcumin, which is a major component of turmeric extract and turmeric.

Skin is an important organ that protects the human body from the external environment and is in charge of various physiological functions such as barrier function, temperature control, and excretion that prevent the internal moisture and useful ingredients from leaking out.

However, as the skin ages, the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue become thinner, which lowers the barrier function of the skin and the skin's physiological function decreases due to a drastic decrease in the moisture content of the skin. In addition to the aging phenomenon according to the age may be a skin aging due to light as a representative cause of aging. Wrinkle formation by skin aging by light is as follows.

First, fibroblasts present in the dermal layer of the skin are important cells that produce collagen. Collagen plays an important role in skin constituents such as mechanical firmness of skin, resistance of connective tissue, adhesion of tissue and support of cell adhesion. The collagen is deteriorated in the function of fibroblasts by photoaging due to aging and UV irradiation, and the production amount thereof is reduced, and collagen reduction is promoted by collagenase enzyme activity that degrades collagen. In general, at 80 years of age, the skin thickness is reduced by 65% compared to 20 years, and this phenomenon is known to be closely related to the wrinkle formation of the skin.

Second, elastin fibers form crosslinks with collagen and are important skin components for the production of wrinkles involved in skin elasticity. Deficiency and aggregation of elastin fibers and a dramatic increase in the activity of elastinase, an elastin degrading enzyme, have been found to be one of the causes of skin wrinkles. Elastase is the only enzyme that can degrade elastin, and its inhibition is known to fundamentally reduce skin wrinkle improvement.

As a result, many cosmetic companies and research institutes are using moisturizers, anti-inflammatory agents, elastin, collagen and nutritional agents in the cosmetics to reduce wrinkles and delay skin aging, which is fundamentally limited in delaying aging. Therefore, there is a need for an anti-wrinkle agent through the blockade of elastin and collagen reduction to maintain skin components and elasticity and promoting collagen and elastin production.

Currently, wrinkle improvement cosmetics are known as retinoids, adenosine, animal placental protein, chlorella extract and the like. Retinol, the most well known, promotes collagen synthesis and inhibits elastase enzymes, but it is unstable and has limited use due to safety issues such as irritation and seizures when applied to the skin. It is difficult to expect improvement effects. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a material having safety and stability, preventing and promoting collagen and elastin, and at the same time, free radical generation suppression and scavenging effect.

Turmeric is classified as a food additive and turmeric pigment is used as an food coloring. Curcuminseongbu, the main component of turmeric, is contained in the roots and stems, but it is usually the highest in the roots. In India, it has long been an indispensable ingredient in medicine, and curry also contains it.

Development of a product using the excellent physiological activity of turmeric is a dementia prevention and therapeutic composition disclosed in Korean Patent No. 360674, a herbal composition for preventing and treating hyperlipidemia and angina pectoral disclosed in Korean Patent No. 374416, and liver cancer prevention disclosed in Korean Patent No. 239879. And therapeutic herbal medicines, which have been developed as a whitening food composition disclosed in Korean Patent No. 266740, but have an excellent inhibitory effect on elastase and collagenase that cause wrinkle formation, collagen production promoting effect and using the same. There is no example of the development of cosmetics for wrinkle improvement.

The present invention was devised in view of the above matters, and as a result of research on herbal medicines and natural plants to find a substance having an excellent wrinkle improvement effect, turmeric extract has a strong inhibition on collagenase and elastase enzyme activity. As a result of testing collagen synthesis promoting effect on turmeric extract, it was found that collagen synthesis effect was observed, and that free radical production inhibition and scavenging effect were excellent. In addition, as a result of separating the turmeric element that inhibits the collagenase and elastase enzyme activity, curcumin, the main component, showed a strong enzyme activity and collagen synthesis effect. Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing turmeric extract and curcumin.

The following drawings attached to this specification are illustrative of preferred embodiments of the present invention, and together with the detailed description of the invention to serve to further understand the technical spirit of the present invention, the present invention is a matter described in such drawings It should not be construed as limited to.

1 is a diagram showing the effect of inhibiting the elastase activity of turmeric extract and curcumin according to the solvent.

<Description of main reference numerals in the drawings>

■ .. Water-soluble extract ● .. Ethanol extract ▲ .. hexene fraction

▼ ..Chloroform Fraction + .. Ethyl Acetate Fraction × Curcumin

Turmeric extract used in the present invention is prepared by using any one of water, hydrophilic organic solvents or mixtures thereof. In more detail, first, in Example 1, the turmeric is extracted by using a water-soluble, methanol and ethanol extraction method that is generally used to prepare an extract.

Example 1

Put 150g of dried turmeric into the extraction bottle and pour distilled water and extract it three times for 5 hours at a temperature of 80 ~ 121 ℃, or put 150g of dry turmeric in 95 ~ 99% ethanol in 1 ~ 15 times volume. It extracts by heating at 70-80 degreeC for 12 hours in the attached extractor. The extract is filtered under reduced pressure again to remove solids. The remaining filtrate is concentrated under reduced pressure in a condenser with a cooling capacitor, and then freeze-dried.

Example 2

In Example 2, the extract extracted in Example 1 is further purified to extract a component capable of producing an enzyme inhibitory effect in a smaller amount than the crude extract.

In order to prepare a turmeric organic solvent fraction, first, the ethanol or methanol soluble extract of Example 1 was dissolved in water, and then hexene, chloroform, ethyl in order of increasing polarity of the solvent. Fractionate with ethyl acetate. Each organic solvent fraction was concentrated under reduced pressure in a condenser equipped with a cooling capacitor and then evaporated all organic solvents at 80 ° C. and used in Experimental Example 1 below.

According to the present invention, the following elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity (Experimental Example 1) and collagen synthesis promotion experiment (Experimental Example 2) using the extract prepared through the process of Example 1, Example 2 Perform. As described above, elastase and collagenase can inhibit wrinkle formation by inhibiting the activity of the elastase and collagenase by inducing wrinkle formation by degrading collagen and elastin forming skin tissue.

Experimental Example 1

Determination of enzyme inhibitory activity using Sana (N-succinyl- (alanine) 3-p-nitroanilide, SANA, Sigma) was as follows: Tris-HCl buffer (0.2M, 3.0 mL cuvette). pH 8.0, 1200 μl), elastase enzyme solution (5%, 400 μl), distilled water (200 μl), turmeric extract (200 μl) and then pre-reacted for 2 minutes at 37 ℃. After the reaction, the internal solution (2 mM, 400 μl) was added to the substrate, and the initial absorbance was measured at 400 nm using a spectrophotometer. After 15 minutes of enzyme reaction at 37 ° C., the final absorbance is measured at 400 nm. The test was measured at least three times each.

Determination of enzyme inhibition activity using azocollage (azocoll, sigma) as a substrate was performed by adding 900 μl of 50 mM potassium phosphate buffer (pH 6.6), 3 mg of azo collagen, 100 μl of enzyme and 50 μl of natural extract. After inducing the enzyme reaction for 1 hour at ℃, the absorbance was measured at 520 nm. The test was measured at least three times each.

Protease Inhibition Rate (%) = [1- (S-B) / C] × 100

S: Absorbance value at the time of addition of enzyme solution and sample solution, B: Absorbance value at the time of addition of distilled water and sample solution, C: Absorbance value at the time of adding solvent in which the above example extract was dissolved instead of sample solution

The experimental results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Table 1 Elastase and Collagenase Activity Inhibitory Effects of Turmeric Extracts

Enzyme Inhibition Rate (%) Elastase Collagenase Turmeric water soluble extract 20 15 Turmeric Ethanol Soluble Extract 60 55

TABLE 2 Elastase and Collagenase Activity Inhibitory Effects of Turmeric Extract Fractions

Enzyme Inhibition Rate (%) Elastase Collagenase Hexene fraction 85 80 Chloroform fraction 77 70 Ethyl acetate fraction 70 65 Water soluble fraction 45 40

As shown in the results (Table 1, 2), turmeric ethanol soluble extract showed excellent elastase and collagenase enzyme inhibitory activity. On the other hand, the water soluble extract showed low enzyme inhibitory activity. In the case of the organic solvent fractions fractionated using the organic solvent, the hexene fraction showed the best enzyme inhibitory activity, and the chloroform and ethyl acetate fractions showed the best enzyme inhibitory activity. Hexene is the organic solvent having the highest nonpolarity among the used organic solvents, and it can be seen that the material showing the enzyme inhibitory activity is a substance having high nonpolarity. In the case of Figure 1 showed the inhibitory effect of elastase enzyme by the concentration of each extract and fraction. As the concentration of each extract and fraction increases, it can be seen that the enzyme inhibition rate is increased. Particularly, the fraction shows an excellent enzyme inhibition rate even at a very low concentration.

Experimental Example 2

The measurement of collagen synthesis enhancement effect using fibroblast cultures was carried out in a well of a human normal fibroblast (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium) containing 10% bovine fetal serum (FBS). 2 × 10 4 cells were seeded in 96-well microplates and incubated in 37 ° C., 5% CO 2 incubator. After incubation for 24 hours, the turmeric extracts obtained in Examples 1 and 2 by washing twice with PBS (phosphate buffer saline) to 0.1% concentration were incubated for 48 hours in DMEM medium containing no FBS. Ascorbic acid (50㎍ / ㎖) was added 24 hours before the last 24 hours of culture to promote collagen synthesis. Each well was washed and replaced with DMEM medium without FBS and incubated for 24 hours. After incubation, the supernatant of each well was collected and the amount of procollagen type IC-peptide (PICP) was measured by the amount of newly synthesized collagen using a kit (PICP EIA Kit, Takara, Kyoto, Japan), and the amount of PICP was ng / 2 ×. Converted to 104 cells.

The experimental results are shown in Tables 3 and 4 below.

[Table 3] Collagen synthesis effect of turmeric extract

Collagen Synthesis Control 155 Turmeric water soluble extract 165 Turmeric Ethanol Soluble Extract 195

[Table 4] Collagen synthesis effect of turmeric extract

Collagen Synthesis Control 145 Hexene fraction 210 Chloroform fraction 185 Ethyl acetate fraction 190 Water soluble fraction 155

As shown in the results (Table 3, 4), turmeric ethanol and methanol soluble extract showed a higher collagen synthesis amount than the control. This means that the ethanol soluble extract of turmeric promotes collagen synthesis of fibroblasts. In addition, the organic solvent fractions fractionated using the organic solvent also showed higher collagen synthesis than the control group, and showed better collagen synthesis amount than the ethanol soluble extract.

On the other hand, about 100 types of turmeric active ingredients known as turmeric are curcumin (curcumin) known as turmeric pigment, and include about essential oils (tumerone, cineol, α-curcumen, curcumol) and abundant minerals. Can be. In the case of curcumin, the content is about 3.6%, and until now, it is reported that the excellent physiological activity of turmeric is attributed to this curcumin. In this regard, the present inventors identified curcumin in comparison with the curcumin standard, which is extracted from curcumin and sold as a reagent, and investigated the inhibitory activity and the degree of collagen synthesis by inhibiting the enzyme activity of elastase and collagenase. It is shown in Tables 5 and 6.

TABLE 5 Curcumin Elastase and Collagenase Inhibitory Effects

Enzyme Inhibition Rate (%) Elastase Collagenase Curcumin 98 95

[Table 6] Collagen Synthesis Effect of Curcumin

Collagen Synthesis Control 151 Curcumin 230

As shown in the results (Tables 5 and 6), it can be seen that curcumin's elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity is very excellent. In addition, it can be seen that the collagen synthesis promoting effect is also excellent. As shown in FIG. 1, it can be seen that the elastase inhibitory activity increases as the concentration of curcumin increases, and in particular, it shows 98% enzyme inhibitory activity at a very low concentration of 0.05%.

Experimental Example 3

Wrinkle improvement effect on cosmetics containing turmeric extract and curcumin of the present invention was applied to human skin, and the skin of 15 subjects with facial wrinkles aged 30 to 45 years with respect to the nourishing cream (Preparation 3) of the following composition Wrinkle improvement effect was evaluated.

The nutritional cream (Production Example 3) was used on the left side of the subject's face and the comparative example 3 nutritional cream was used twice a day for three months after washing the face. For each of them, the degree of wrinkle improvement of the production example and the comparative example was visually determined, and the production example compared to the comparative example to determine the wrinkle improvement effect of "clear effect", "wrinkle improvement effect", "not sure", "no" 4 Evaluated in stages, the results are shown in [Table 7].

[Production example]

The composition of the present invention can be prepared and used in the softening lotion, nutrient lotion, nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, pack, etc. according to the method commonly used in cosmetics using the auxiliary and excipients commonly used in the cosmetic manufacturing field Can be.

If shown through the preparation examples 1 to 5 of the turmeric extract and curcumin containing the present invention of the present invention.

(Production Example 1)-Flexible Cosmetics

Raw material content Turmeric extract 0.5 - Curcumin 0.01 Glycerol 3.0 3.0 Butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 Propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.1 0.1 ethanol 10.0 10.0 Triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 antiseptic a very small amount a very small amount Pigment a very small amount a very small amount Spices a very small amount a very small amount Purified water Balance (total 100) Balance (total 100)

(Production Example 2)-Nutrients

Raw material content Turmeric extract 0.5 - Curcumin 0.01 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.1 0.1 Beeswax 4.0 4.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5 0.5 Liquid paraffin 5.0 5.0 Squalane 5.0 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5.0 5.0 glycerin 3.0 3.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 antiseptic a very small amount a very small amount Pigment a very small amount a very small amount Spices a very small amount a very small amount Purified water Balance / Total 100 Balance / Total 100

(Manufacture example 3)-nutrition cream

Raw material content Turmeric extract 0.5 - Curcumin 0.01 Milnam 10.0 10.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5 0.5 Liquid paraffin 10.0 10.0 Squalane 5.0 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5.0 5.0 glycerin 5.0 5.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 antiseptic a very small amount a very small amount Pigment a very small amount a very small amount Spices a very small amount a very small amount Purified water Balance / Total 100 Balance / Total 100

(Manufacture example 4)-massage cream

Raw material content Turmeric extract 0.5 - Curcumin 0.01 Butylene glycol 3.0 3.0 Beeswax 10.0 10.0 Polysorbate 60 0.8 0.8 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5 0.5 Liquid paraffin 40.0 40.0 Squalane 5.0 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 4.0 4.0 glycerin 5.0 5.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 antiseptic a very small amount a very small amount Pigment a very small amount a very small amount Spices a very small amount a very small amount Purified water Balance / Total 100 Balance / Total 100

(Production Example 5)-Pack

Raw material content Turmeric extract 0.5 - Curcumin 0.01 Polyvinyl alcohol 13.0 13.0 Sodium Carboxymethyl Cellulose 0.2 0.2 Allantoin 0.1 0.1 Noniphenyl ether 0.3 0.3 antiseptic a very small amount a very small amount Pigment a very small amount a very small amount Spices a very small amount a very small amount Purified water Balance / Total 100 Balance / Total 100

[Table 7] Wrinkle improvement effect

Sensory evaluation (persons) Has a pronounced effect Slightly effective I'm not sure none 3 5 2 0 2 5 2 One

The present invention is an anti-wrinkle cosmetic containing turmeric extract, inhibiting the elastase enzyme and collagenase enzyme activity involved in wrinkle generation and at the same time excellent effect of promoting collagen production was able to confirm the wrinkle improvement effect. In addition, even when a small amount of curcumin, a major component of turmeric, is used, it exhibits an effect of inhibiting enzyme activity and collagen production of excellent elastase and collagenase, thereby enabling the development of a cosmetic product for functional wrinkle improvement using the same. .

Claims (5)

Whitening cosmetics containing turmeric extract, characterized in that the turmeric extract is mixed with water, hydrophilic organic solvents and any one of a mixture thereof, the extract is contained 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the cosmetic. The whitening cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the turmeric extract is extracted using distilled water as a solvent and contained 1.0 to 10% by weight based on the cosmetic. The whitening cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the turmeric extract is extracted with ethanol as a solvent and is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt% based on the cosmetic. The whitening cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the turmeric extract is extracted using any one of hexene, chloroform, and ethyl acetate as a solvent, and contains 0.1 to 10 wt% of the cosmetic. Curcumin whitening cosmetics using turmeric extract, characterized in that it comprises 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the cosmetic.