KR20030027160A - Method for producing fabrics using a different shrinkable composite yarn of polyester thick-and-thin yarn and cellulose yarn - Google Patents
Method for producing fabrics using a different shrinkable composite yarn of polyester thick-and-thin yarn and cellulose yarn Download PDFInfo
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- KR20030027160A KR20030027160A KR1020010056346A KR20010056346A KR20030027160A KR 20030027160 A KR20030027160 A KR 20030027160A KR 1020010056346 A KR1020010056346 A KR 1020010056346A KR 20010056346 A KR20010056346 A KR 20010056346A KR 20030027160 A KR20030027160 A KR 20030027160A
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- yarn
- cellulose
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- thick
- polyester
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- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 36
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 25
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 title description 4
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 229920001747 Cellulose diacetate Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 229920002301 cellulose acetate Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract 3
- 238000007127 saponification reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004714 phosphonium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 5
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 4
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 4
- 125000002777 acetyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)=O 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229920006239 diacetate fiber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000004580 weight loss Effects 0.000 description 3
- 125000002915 carbonyl group Chemical group [*:2]C([*:1])=O 0.000 description 2
- 239000005018 casein Substances 0.000 description 2
- BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N casein, tech. Chemical compound NCCCCC(C(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CC(C)C)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(C(C)O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(COP(O)(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(N)CC1=CC=CC=C1 BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000021240 caseins Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000001228 spectrum Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920001131 Pulp (paper) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- MTCFGRXMJLQNBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Serine Natural products OCC(N)C(O)=O MTCFGRXMJLQNBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920006221 acetate fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000288 alkali metal carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000008041 alkali metal carbonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000008044 alkali metal hydroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910001860 alkaline earth metal hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- JBIROUFYLSSYDX-UHFFFAOYSA-M benzododecinium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 JBIROUFYLSSYDX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- AXCZMVOFGPJBDE-UHFFFAOYSA-L calcium dihydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[Ca+2] AXCZMVOFGPJBDE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000000920 calcium hydroxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001861 calcium hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000001595 contractor effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002425 crystallisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008025 crystallization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012636 effector Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- WMWTYOKRWGGJOA-CENSZEJFSA-N fluticasone propionate Chemical compound C1([C@@H](F)C2)=CC(=O)C=C[C@]1(C)[C@]1(F)[C@@H]2[C@@H]2C[C@@H](C)[C@@](C(=O)SCF)(OC(=O)CC)[C@@]2(C)C[C@@H]1O WMWTYOKRWGGJOA-CENSZEJFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000009477 glass transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000005484 gravity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- XYFCBTPGUUZFHI-UHFFFAOYSA-O phosphonium Chemical compound [PH4+] XYFCBTPGUUZFHI-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004627 regenerated cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 1
- -1 sodium hydroxide Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003595 spectral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungsten Chemical compound [W] WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052721 tungsten Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010937 tungsten Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/18—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
- D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/46—Compounds containing quaternary nitrogen atoms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유와 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick & Thin Yarn)를 함께 유체 교락 처리한 후 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유의 레이온화 가공 공정에서 발생하는 수축율과 폴리에스테르 태세사의 이수축 특성을 이용하여, 직물상태에서 우수한 부품성, 샤리감, 흡습성, 드레이프성, 신축성을 가지며 자연스러운 외관과 뛰어난 톤(Tone)효과가 발현되는 폴리에스테르 태세사/셀룰로오스 이수축 혼섬 직편물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention utilizes the shrinkage rate and bishrinkage characteristics of the polyester posture yarn generated during the rayonization process of the cellulose diacetate fibers after fluid entanglement of the cellulose diacetate fibers and polyester thick yarn (Thick & Thin Yarn) together, The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester tether / cellulose bispun woven fabric having excellent parts properties, shariness, hygroscopicity, drape, and elasticity in a fabric state and having a natural appearance and excellent tone effect.
일반적으로 아세테이트사는 목재의 펄프, 즉 셀룰로오스 성분으로부터 만들어지는 섬유로서 그 자체가 천연섬유인 실크 또는 재생섬유인 레이온과 매우 유사한 직물 특성을 갖고 있다.In general, acetate yarns are made from wood pulp, a cellulosic component, and have fabric properties very similar to rayon, which is itself silk or recycled fibers.
그러나 고유의 특성인 화려한 광택, 우수한 드레이프성, 드라이한 질감 등천연섬유에 버금가는 많은 장점을 가지고 있음에도 불구하고 강도가 약하다는 단점 때문에 아세테이트 사 단독으로는 외의(外衣)로서는 사용하지 못하고 주로 양복의 안감으로만 사용할 수 있다는 등 용도 전개에 많은 제약을 받고 있다.However, due to its weak strength, despite its many advantages over natural fibers, such as its brilliant luster, excellent drape, and dry texture, acetate is not used alone. There are many limitations in the development of the application, such as the use of only lining.
이러한 용도 제약을 해결하기 위해서 폴리에스테르 섬유와 같이 강도가 큰 타 소재와의 복합사를 만들어 사용하는 것이 일반적인 추세이다.In order to solve such application constraints, it is a general trend to make composite yarns with other materials having high strength such as polyester fibers.
폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick & Thin)의 경우 미연신사등을 유리 전이 온도 부근에서 자연 연신비 부근에서 연신함으로써 미연신사의 물성을 가지는 태(Thick)부와 연신사의 물성을 가지는 세(Thin)부를 구성하는 것으로 직물상에서 샤리감과 드라이감을 가지며, 염색성의 차이로 인하여 우수한 톤(Tone)효과가 발현된다.In the case of polyester thick yarn (Thick & Thin), by drawing the non-drawn yarn, such as near the glass transition temperature near the natural draw ratio to form the thick portion having the properties of the undrawn yarn and the thin portion having the properties of the drawn yarn It has a sense of shari and dry on the fabric, and excellent tone effect is expressed due to the difference in dyeability.
종래, 위와 같은 폴리에스테르 태세사와 일반적인 레이온 섬유를 사용하여 복합사를 제조하는 경우 우수한 톤(Tone)효과를 가지나 수축율 차이가 적어 충분한 이수축 효과를 가지지 못하는 결점을 가지고 있었다.Conventionally, when the composite yarn is manufactured using the polyester poise yarn and the general rayon fiber as described above, the composite yarn has an excellent tone effect, but the shrinkage difference does not have enough shrinkage effect.
따라서 본 발명은 상기한 바와 같은 선행기술의 문제점이 없이 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)와 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유를 사용하여 직물상태에서 우수한 부품성, 흡습성, 드레이프성, 신축성을 가지며 자연스러운 외관과 뛰어난 톤(Tone)효과를 가지는 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick & Thin Yarn)/셀룰로오스 이수축 혼섬 직편물의 제조방법을 제공하는 것을 목적으로 한다.Therefore, the present invention has excellent parts properties, hygroscopicity, drape, elasticity in the fabric state using polyester thick yarn (Thick and Thin Yarn) and cellulose diacetate fibers without the problems of the prior art as described above and has a natural appearance and It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a polyester thick & thin yarn / cellulose bishrink blended knitted fabric having an excellent tone effect.
본 발명은 심사로 사용되게 되는 치환도 2.0~2.75의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유와 효과사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)를 공기 교락하여 혼섬한 후 긴장 열처리하고, 얻어진 혼섬사로 직편물을 제직 또는 제편한 후 공정과, 제직 또는 제편된 직물을 알칼리 처리하여 셀룰로오스 아세테이트 섬유을 레이온으로 전환시켜서, 상기 심사와 효과사가 하기 수학식 1의 수축특성을 만족하는 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)/셀룰로오스 이수축 혼섬 직편물의 제조방법.In the present invention, the cellulose diacetate fibers having a degree of substitution of 2.0 to 2.75, which are used as the screening, and the polyester thickener (Thick and Thin Yarn) used as effect yarns are intermingled by air interweaving, followed by tension heat treatment. Polyester weaving (Thick) characterized in that the process after the weaving or knitting, and alkali treatment of the woven or knitted fabric to convert the cellulose acetate fibers to rayon, the screening and effector satisfies the shrinkage characteristics of the following formula (1) and Thin Yarn) / method of producing a cellulose bishrink interwoven fabric.
SSP(H)는 긴장 열처리후 검화공정에서의 심사(고수축사)의 수축율(%)SSP (H) is the shrinkage rate (%) of the screening (high shrinkage) in the saponification process after tension heat treatment.
SSP(L)은 긴장 열처리후 검화공정에서의 효과사(저수축사)의 수축율(%)SSP (L) is the shrinkage rate (%) of the effect yarn (low shrinkage yarn) in the saponification process after tension heat treatment
이하, 본 발명을 보다 상세하게 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명은 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)/셀룰로오스 이수축 혼섬 직물을 제조하기 위하여, 이수축 혼섬사의 원료로써 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트를 심사로, 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)를 효과사로 사용하게 된다.The present invention is to examine the cellulose diacetate as a raw material of the biaxially mixed yarn, to prepare a polyester thickener (Thick and Thin Yarn) / cellulose bi-shrink blended fabric, the polyester yarn (Thick and Thin Yarn) as an effect yarn Will be used.
상기 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트는 치환도가 2.0~2.75인 것이 바람직하다.It is preferable that substitution degree of the said cellulose diacetate is 2.0-2.75.
또한, 본 발명에서는 심사로 사용되는 셀롤로오스와 효과사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르 태세사를 공기 교락한 후 혼섬하게 되며, 상기 혼섬사를 원사로 하여 직물을 제조하는 공정을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 한다. 본 발명에서의 직물은 편물을 포함하는 개념이다.In addition, the present invention is characterized in that it comprises a step of interweaving after air entangled with the cellulose used as the screening and the polyester posture yarn used as the effect yarns, characterized in that it comprises a step of producing a fabric using the blended yarn as yarn. The fabric in the present invention is a concept including a knitted fabric.
본 발명에서는 상기의 제직된 직물을 알칼리 처리하여 셀룰로오스 아세테이트 섬유를 레이온 섬유로 전환시키는 공정을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는데, 검화 후에 효과사(저수축사)와 심사(고수축사)가 수학식 1을 만족하는 것을 특징으로 한다.The present invention is characterized in that it comprises the step of converting the cellulose acetate fibers into rayon fibers by alkali treatment of the woven fabric, the effect yarn (low shrink yarn) and the screening (high shrink yarn) satisfy the equation (1) after saponification Characterized in that.
본 발명의 검화과정의 알칼리 조건은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유 대비 32~40%의 알칼리 수용액에 70~130℃의 온도에서 1~120분 동안 1회 또는 2회 처리하는 것이 바람직하다.Alkaline conditions of the saponification process of the present invention is preferably treated once or twice in 1 to 120 minutes at a temperature of 70 ~ 130 ℃ in an aqueous alkali solution of 32 to 40% compared to the cellulose diacetate fiber.
상기와 같이 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트를 알칼리 처리하면 아세틸기 하이드록시기로 전환되는 검화가 일어나게 되는데 이때 무정형으로 존재하던 디아세테이트 섬유의 분자쇄들의 폴딩(folding)과 패킹(packing)등의 재배열로 결정화가 일어난다. 일반적으로 천연의 셀룰로오스는 셀룰로오스 I의 결정구조를 가지게 되며 재생 셀룰로오스섬유의 경우는 셀룰로오스 II의 구조를 가지는 데 반해 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트의 검화에 의해 제조된 셀룰로오스 섬유는 셀룰로오스 II와 IV가 혼합된 결정구조를 가지게 되며, 결정화도(비중법) 14~34%, 복굴절율 0.012~0.024이다.Alkaline treatment of cellulose diacetate as described above results in the saponification of conversion to an acetyl group hydroxy group, wherein crystallization occurs by rearranging and folding of molecular chains of diacetate fibers that were present in an amorphous form. In general, natural cellulose has a crystalline structure of cellulose I. In the case of regenerated cellulose fibers, cellulose II has a structure of cellulose II, whereas cellulose fibers prepared by saponification of cellulose diacetate have a crystalline structure of cellulose II and IV. Crystallinity (specific gravity method) 14-34%, birefringence 0.012 ~ 0.024.
위의 방법으로 제조된 레이온 섬유의 물성은 비중이 1.48-1.51 gm/cm3, 인장강도 1.2~2.5gf/de, 신도 20~50%, 표준상태 수분율 11-12%로 일반 레이온과 유사한 성능을 보인다.The physical properties of the rayon fiber prepared by the above method are 1.48-1.51 gm / cm 3 , tensile strength 1.2 ~ 2.5gf / de, elongation 20 ~ 50%, standard moisture content 11-12%, and similar performance to that of general rayon. see.
본 발명에 사용될 수 있는 알칼리화합물의 예로는 수산화나트륨등과 같은 알칼리금속수산화물, 수산화칼슘 등과 같은 알칼리토금속류수산화물, 탄산나트륨등과 같은 알칼리 금속탄산염이 있다. 이러한 알칼리 화합물은 단독으로 사용할 수도 있고, 또는 반응속도 조절제를 병용하여 사용할 수도 있다. 반응속도 조절제로는 포스포늄계 검화조절제와 4급암모늄계 검화속도 조절제가 잘 알려져 있다. 반응속도 조절제의 시중 구입가능한 예로는 포스포늄계인 네오레이트 엔씨비(NEORATE NCB : 한국정밀제품) ; 제4급암모늄계인 케이에프 네오레이트 엔에이-40(KF NEORATE NA-40 : 한국정밀제품), 디와이케이-1125(DYK-1125 : 일방사(一方社)제품, 일본), 카세린 PES, 카세린 PEL, 카세린 PEF(이상 명성화학(明成化學)제품, 일본), 스노겐 피디에스(SNOGEN PDS : 대영화학제품, 한국)등을 들수 있다.Examples of alkali compounds that can be used in the present invention include alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as calcium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates such as sodium carbonate and the like. These alkali compounds may be used alone or in combination with a reaction rate modifier. Phosphorium-based saponification agents and quaternary ammonium saponification rate regulators are well known as reaction rate regulators. Commercially available examples of reaction rate regulators include phosphonium-based neorate NCB (NEORATE NCB); Quaternary ammonium KF NEORATE NA-40 (KF NEORATE NA-40: Korea Precision Products), DWK-1125 (DYK-1125: One-sided, Japan), Casein PES, Ka And serine PEL, casein PEF (Sungjin Chemical, Japan), and SNOGEN PDS (Daeyoung Chemical, Korea).
본 발명에서 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유와 폴리에스테르 태세사를 교락하여 혼섬한 후 직물을 제직하고, 제직된 직물을 알칼리 처리하게 되면 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트의 검화 및 결정 형성과정에서 섬유의 수축이 일어나는 반면에, 열처리된 폴리에스테르 태세사는 거의 수축이 발생하지 않는다.In the present invention, after weaving the cellulose diacetate fiber and the polyester tactile yarn mixed and weaving the fabric, and alkali treatment of the woven fabric, the shrinkage of the fiber occurs during the saponification and crystal formation of cellulose diacetate, heat treatment The polyester poised yarn hardly shrinks.
본 발명에서는 검화 후 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트가 15~19%의 수축율을 발생시키며, 폴리에스테르 태세사는 0.4~1.0%로 수축이 거의 일어나지 않는다.In the present invention, after saponification, the cellulose diacetate generates a shrinkage of 15 to 19%, and the polyester posture yarn hardly shrinks to 0.4 to 1.0%.
따라서, 두 원사간에 14.6~18% 정도의 수축율 차가 발생하게 되어 검화에 의해 제조된 레이온 섬유가 심사로 구성되고, 폴리에스테르 태세사가 효과사로 구성되는 이수축 혼섬사를 제공하게 되는 것이다.Therefore, a shrinkage difference of about 14.6 to 18% occurs between the two yarns, so that the rayon fiber produced by saponification is composed of the screening, and a polyester tungsten yarn provides the bishrink blended yarn composed of effect yarns.
또한, 본 발명의 알칼리 처리 과정에서 감량이 일어나게 되는데 폴리에스테르 섬유는 디아세테이트와 복합되었을 경우, 아세테이트에서만 선택적으로 감량이 일어나며, 따라서, 알칼리의 양 조절을 통해 폴리에스테르 섬유의 감량이 일어나지 않도록 조절할 수 있게 된다.In addition, the weight loss occurs in the alkali treatment process of the present invention, when the polyester fiber is complexed with diacetate, the weight loss occurs selectively only in acetate, and thus, it is possible to control the weight loss of the polyester fiber by adjusting the amount of alkali Will be.
상기한 바와 같은 본 발명의 특징 및 기타의 장점은 후술되는 실시예로부터 보다 명백하게 될 것이다. 단, 본 발명이 하기 실시예로 제한되는 것은 아니다.Features and other advantages of the present invention as described above will become more apparent from the following examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.
하기 실시예에서 감량율은 알칼리 처리전/후의 시료의 중량변화를 측정하여 처리전후의 시료 중량 차이를 처리전 시료 중량을 나눈값의 백분율로 나타낸 것이다.In the following examples, the loss ratio is measured as a weight change of the sample before and after the alkali treatment, and represents the difference in the sample weight before and after the treatment as a percentage of the sample weight before the treatment.
[실시예 1]Example 1
아세틸 치환도 2.0~2.75의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유 (SKYRON, SK케미칼(주)산, 한국) 75d/20f의 원사와 폴리에스테르 태세사(TTY, (주)휴비스산, 한국) 110d/72f 원사를 공기(Air)노즐을 통하여 2.0kg/cm2의 압력으로 처리하여 40개/m의 교락을 부여하여 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/폴리에스테르 태세사 혼섬사를 제조하였다.Cellulose diacetate fiber with acetyl substitution degree 2.0 ~ 2.75 (SKYRON, SK Chemical Co., Ltd., Korea) 75d / 20f yarn and polyester posture yarn (TTY, Huvis acid, Korea) 110d / 72f yarn Treatment with a pressure of 2.0 kg / cm 2 through the (Air) nozzle to give a entanglement of 40 / m to prepare a cellulose diacetate / polyester talsa yarn blended yarn.
위의 혼섬사를 80oC에서 30분 동안 긴장 열처리한 후 경사 및 위사로 사용하여 제직된 새틴(Satin)직물(경사밀도 21본/inch, 위사밀도 88본/inch)을 액류염색기에 물을 넣고 디아세테이트 대비 35wt%의 가성소다와 반응속도 조절제 1g/L를 투입하고 30oC에서 100oC까지 2oC/min로 승온 한 후 30분 동안 처리한 뒤 30oC까지 2oC/min로 냉각시키고 배액, 수세하므로써 검화시켰다. 이때 아세테이트 섬유의 감량율은 34%였고, 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)부분의 감량율은 0~1%였다.Tension heat treatment of the above blended yarn at 80 o C for 30 minutes, and then weaved satin fabric (21 yarns / inch inclined density, 88 yarns / inch weft density) using water as a warp and weft yarn. to put di after acetate contrast in the caustic soda and the reaction rate adjusting agent 1g / L of 35wt%, and for 30 minutes after the temperature was raised to 2 o C / min from 30 o C to 100 o C 30 o C 2 o C / Cooled to min, drained and saponified by washing with water. At this time, the loss ratio of the acetate fiber was 34%, and the loss ratio of the polyester thick yarn (Thick and Thin Yarn) portion was 0 ~ 1%.
검화시킨 직물을 분산 및 반응성 염료로 염색한 후 180oC로 1분동안 텐터(Tenter)에서 열고정 처리하였다.The saponified fabrics were dyed with disperse and reactive dyes and then heat set in a tenter at 180 ° C. for 1 minute.
또한 두 섬유의 각각의 감량율을 알아보기 위해 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유와 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)를 혼섬하지 않고 액류기에 넣어 위와 같은 방법으로 처리하여 측정하였다.In addition, in order to determine the loss ratio of each of the two fibers, the cellulose diacetate fibers and polyester thickeners (Thick and Thin Yarn) were not mixed with each other and placed in a liquid container.
위와 같은 실시예 1의 처리 조건에 따른 각 섬유의 감량율, 각 사용원사의 수축율과 물성들을 표 1에서 제시하였으며, 직물의 부드러움, 드레이프성, 반발탄성, 부품성을 평가하여 불량은 (X), 보통은 (△), 양호는 (O), 매우 양호는 (◎) 4등급으로 나타내었다.The loss ratio of each fiber according to the treatment conditions of Example 1, the shrinkage rate and the physical properties of each yarn used are shown in Table 1, and the defect was evaluated by evaluating the softness, drape, resilience, and part properties of the fabric. Usually, (△), good (O), and very good (◎) are shown in 4 grades.
또한, 실시예 1 시료의 적외선 분광 스펙트럼을 분석 한 결과 원래의 디아세테이트 섬유에서 보이는 1760cm-1에서 아세틸기의 카르보닐 피크가 완전히 사라져 완전한 레이온 섬유가 제조되었음을 알 수 있었다.In addition, as a result of analyzing the infrared spectroscopic spectrum of the sample of Example 1, it was found that the carbonyl peak of the acetyl group disappeared completely at 1760 cm −1 seen in the original diacetate fiber, thereby producing a complete rayon fiber.
[실시예 2]Example 2
검화과정에서 가성소다의 투입량을 디아세테이트 대비 40wt%로 한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일한 절차를 반복하였다. 이때의 아세테이트 감량율은 39.5%였다.The same procedure as in Example 1 was repeated except that caustic soda was 40 wt% based on diacetate in the saponification process. At this time, the acetate loss rate was 39.5%.
상기 사용 원사의 수축율 및 직물의 기타 물성들을 표 1에 나타내었다.The shrinkage of the yarn used and the other physical properties of the fabric are shown in Table 1.
또한, 실시예 2 시료의 적외선 분광 스펙트럼을 분석 한 결과 원래의 디아세테이트 섬유에서 보이는 1760cm-1에서 아세틸기의 카르보닐 피크가 완전히 사라져 완전한 레이온 섬유가 제조되었음을 알 수 있었다.In addition, as a result of analyzing the infrared spectral spectrum of the sample of Example 2, it was found that the carbonyl peak of the acetyl group disappeared completely at 1760 cm −1 seen in the original diacetate fiber, thereby producing a complete rayon fiber.
[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1
비스코스레이온(아사이 카세이산, 일본) 75d/20f 원사와 폴리에스테르 태세사(TTY, (주)휴비스산, 한국) 110d/72f 원사를 공기(Air) 노즐을 통하여 2.0kg/cm2의 압력으로 처리하여 40개/m의 교락을 부여하여 레이온/폴리에스테르 태세사 혼섬사를 제조하였다. 제조한 혼섬사를 80oC 에서 30분 동안 긴장 열처리한 후 경사 및 위사로 사용하여 제직된 새틴(Satin)직물(경사밀도 21본/inch, 위사밀도 88본/inch)을 소다회 1g/L, 정련제0.5g/L를 첨가한 후 100oC에서 30분동안 정련하였다. 정련된 직물을 분산 및 반응성 염료로 염색한 후 180oC에서 1분 동안텐터(Tenter)에서 열고정 처리하였다.Viscose Rayon (Asai Kasei, Japan) 75d / 20f yarn and polyester posture yarn (TTY, Huvissan, Korea) 110d / 72f yarn at 2.0kg / cm 2 pressure through air nozzle To give a entanglement of 40 / m to prepare a rayon / polyester poem yarn blended yarn. Tension heat treatment of the prepared blended yarn at 80 o C for 30 minutes, and then weaved satin fabric (slope density 21 yarns / inch, weft density 88 yarns / inch) soda ash 1g / L, using the warp and weft yarn, 0.5 g / L of refinery was added and then refined at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes. The refined fabrics were dyed with disperse and reactive dyes and then heat set in a tenter at 180 ° C. for 1 minute.
위의 비교예 1에서 각 사용원사의 수축율을 실시예 1과 동일한 방법을 통해 특정하였다. 측정결과는 표 1에 제시하였다.In Comparative Example 1 above, the shrinkage of each yarn was specified in the same manner as in Example 1. The measurement results are shown in Table 1.
비교예 1의 경우 레이온 섬유와 폴리에스테르 태세사의 수축율 차이가 적어 이수축 효과가 충분하지 못하였다.In the case of Comparative Example 1, the shrinkage difference between the rayon fibers and the polyester posture yarn was small, so that the biaxial contraction effect was not sufficient.
상기한 실험결과로부터 명백하게 되는 바와 같이, 본 발명에 의해 제조된 직물은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유가 셀룰로오스 섬유로 전환되면서 폴리에스테르 태세사(Thick and Thin Yarn)와 셀룰로오스 섬유의 수축율 차이가 발생하여, 기존의 레이온 섬유와 폴리에스테르 태세사로는 발현할 수 없었던 이수축효과를 나타내므로써 우수한 부품성, 드레이프성, 샤리감을 가지며, 또한, 레이온의 물성인 부드러운 촉감과 흡습성이 발현되고 우수한 톤(Tone)효과를 발현한다.As will be apparent from the above experimental results, the fabric produced by the present invention is the conversion of cellulose diacetate fibers to cellulose fibers, the difference in shrinkage between the polyester thick yarn (Thick and Thin Yarn) and cellulose fibers, It exhibits excellent shrinkage, shaping, and excellent parts, drape, and shari, which can't be expressed with rayon fibers and polyester fabrics. do.
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Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| KR100472385B1 (en) * | 2001-10-10 | 2005-03-07 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method producing fabrics of rayon polyester/nylon ultrafine composite yarn |
| KR100483811B1 (en) * | 2002-05-20 | 2005-04-20 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method for producing polyester/improved acetate composite fabric with excellent anti-static property |
| KR100818824B1 (en) * | 2001-10-18 | 2008-04-01 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method of producing rayon/nylon mixed fabric |
| KR100980907B1 (en) * | 2003-06-30 | 2010-09-07 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Process of producing differential shrink Rayon/PTT compound yarn |
| KR101677025B1 (en) | 2015-09-21 | 2016-11-17 | (주)영원코포레이션 | ITY Process Of Producing Interlaced Yarn Having TriacetateLike Feel And Exellent Stretch Property |
| CN114836998A (en) * | 2022-05-16 | 2022-08-02 | 盐城福汇纺织有限公司 | Processing technology of diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| JP3065850B2 (en) * | 1993-05-06 | 2000-07-17 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | Method for modifying composite yarn |
| KR950013483B1 (en) * | 1993-08-24 | 1995-11-08 | 주식회사선경인더스트리 | Preparation of acetate composite filament yarn |
| JP3748462B2 (en) * | 1995-10-27 | 2006-02-22 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | Acetate hemp-tone composite false twisted yarn |
| JP3073154B2 (en) * | 1996-01-16 | 2000-08-07 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | Method for producing modified cellulose acetate fiber |
| KR100416580B1 (en) * | 1996-12-16 | 2004-04-13 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Cellulose acetate conjugate fiber and its production |
| KR100475839B1 (en) * | 1998-01-07 | 2005-09-30 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Manufacturing method of elastic acetate composite yarn |
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Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100472385B1 (en) * | 2001-10-10 | 2005-03-07 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method producing fabrics of rayon polyester/nylon ultrafine composite yarn |
| KR100818824B1 (en) * | 2001-10-18 | 2008-04-01 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method of producing rayon/nylon mixed fabric |
| KR100483811B1 (en) * | 2002-05-20 | 2005-04-20 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method for producing polyester/improved acetate composite fabric with excellent anti-static property |
| KR100980907B1 (en) * | 2003-06-30 | 2010-09-07 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Process of producing differential shrink Rayon/PTT compound yarn |
| KR101677025B1 (en) | 2015-09-21 | 2016-11-17 | (주)영원코포레이션 | ITY Process Of Producing Interlaced Yarn Having TriacetateLike Feel And Exellent Stretch Property |
| CN114836998A (en) * | 2022-05-16 | 2022-08-02 | 盐城福汇纺织有限公司 | Processing technology of diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric |
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| KR100503439B1 (en) | 2005-08-10 |
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