KR20010064912A - Manufacturing Method of Fancy Weaving in Silk/Ramie Mixture Fabrics - Google Patents

Manufacturing Method of Fancy Weaving in Silk/Ramie Mixture Fabrics Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20010064912A
KR20010064912A KR1019990059344A KR19990059344A KR20010064912A KR 20010064912 A KR20010064912 A KR 20010064912A KR 1019990059344 A KR1019990059344 A KR 1019990059344A KR 19990059344 A KR19990059344 A KR 19990059344A KR 20010064912 A KR20010064912 A KR 20010064912A
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Prior art keywords
weaving
silk
yarn
fabric
fabrics
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KR1019990059344A
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Korean (ko)
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김병미
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김병미
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Priority to KR1019990059344A priority Critical patent/KR20010064912A/en
Publication of KR20010064912A publication Critical patent/KR20010064912A/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235Cashmere or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/70Multi-step processes
    • D06L4/75Multi-step processes combined with cleaning or washing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/08Ramie
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: A method for weaving union cloth of a silk yarn and hemp by using hemp in a state of good ramie fabric as wefts and raw silk yarns as warps is provided. Whereby, the union cloth has beautiful external appearance and excellent wrinkle resistance. CONSTITUTION: The method comprises the steps of: drawing a single yarn or 2 to 10 raw silk at 200 to 800T/M; bleaching hemp in a state of good ramie fabric; weaving using hemp in a state of good ramie fabric as wefts and a silk yarn as warps with a multiple shuttle loom. The obtained union cloth is suitable for making various summer suits.

Description

견사와 저마 교직물의 문직물 제직방법{Manufacturing Method of Fancy Weaving in Silk/Ramie Mixture Fabrics}Manufacturing Method of Fancy Weaving in Silk / Ramie Mixture Fabrics}

본 발명은 견사와 저마로 이루어진 교직물의 제직방법에 관한 것으로, 더욱 상세하게는 견사를 경사로, 저마를 위사로 하여 4종광, 8종광, 16종광 등의 다종광 직기로 제직함으로써, 다양한 문양 및 색상, 우수한 내구김성 및 고급스러운 광택을 가지며, 봄, 가을의 의류소재로도 사용될 수 있는 교직물을 제공하는 것에 관한것이다.The present invention relates to a method of weaving a teaching fabric consisting of silk yarn and low yam, and more particularly, by weaving a silk yarn with a slope, and weaving the low yam with a multi-color loom such as 4 types, 8 types, and 16 types of light looms. The present invention relates to the provision of a teaching fabric which has excellent durability and luxurious luster and can be used as a spring and autumn garment material.

전통기술의 발굴·계승이 활발하여짐에 따라, 우리의 옛 의류소재인 모시, 삼베 등의 천연섬유가 의류소재로 사용되고 있는데, 특히, 모시직물은 한냉성 천연섬유로서 여름의류용 옷감으로 최고의 명성을 누려오고 있다.As the exploration and succession of the traditional technology is active, natural textiles such as ramie and burlap, which are our old clothing materials, are used as clothing materials. Especially, cotton fabrics are cold-cooled natural fibers and are the best reputation for summer clothing cloth. Is enjoying.

그러나, 모시직물 제품은 착용시에 구김이 잘 생기고, 푸새, 다림질 등 손질방법이 까다로와, 누구나 손쉽게 이용하는데는 한계가 있다. 더구나, 이제까지 모시직물은 직물조직 중 가장 간단한 조직인 평직 한가지만의 조직으로 제직된 제품만이 생산되어 왔기 때문에 다양성을 추구하는 현대인의 욕구를 충족시키지 못하고 있는 실정이다.However, woolen fabric products are wrinkled at the time of wearing well, and the method of care, such as pupae, ironing is difficult, anyone has a limit to use easily. Moreover, since the woolen fabrics have been produced with only the plain weave, the simplest tissue weaving organization, the products do not meet the desire of modern people to pursue diversity.

즉, 현재 모시직물을 생산하는 직기는 수직기 중에서도 가장 간단한 2종광을 가진 직기를 사용하고 있어서 평직 이외의 다른 조직의 직물은 생산할 수 없으며, 모시섬유는 다른 방적섬유나 견섬유와 달리 장섬유 한가닥이 경사를 이루고 있으며, 이 한가닥의 섬유도 방적섬유나 견섬유에 비해 균일도가 떨어져 다종광 직기의 경사로 사용할 경우, 장력에 견디기 어려워서 경사로 사용하는데는 제한이 따르는 문제점이 있다.In other words, weaving looms are currently using the simplest type of loom among the vertical looms, so we can't produce fabrics other than plain weave. This single strand of fiber also has a problem that the uniformity is lower than that of spun fiber or silk fiber, and when used as a warp of a multi-color loom, it is difficult to withstand tension and thus there is a problem in that it is used as a warp.

이에, 본 발명자는 교직물이어서 모시와 견의 장점을 함께 가지고 있으며, 또한 소비자의 다양한 미적 욕구를 충족시킬 수 있도록 다양한 문양을 갖는 직물을 제공하기 위해 연구를 거듭한 결과, 저마를 모시직물의 위사·경사 모두에 사용하는 대신, 견사를 경사로 하여 다종광 직기로 교직하는 경우 상기한 문제점을 해결할 수 있음을 발견하고 본 발명을 완성하게 되었다.Therefore, the present inventors have the advantages of ramie and dog together as a teaching fabric, and as a result of repeated studies to provide a fabric having a variety of patterns to meet a variety of aesthetic needs of consumers, weaving yarn Instead of using all of the inclinations, the present invention has been found to be able to solve the above problems in the case of a multi-optical loom with a silk thread as an inclination.

따라서, 본 발명의 목적은 견사와 저마와의 교직물로서 다양한 조직의 문양를 나타낼 수 있는 문직물 제직방법을 찾아내는 것이다.Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to find a textile weaving method that can represent patterns of various tissues as a silk fabric and silk yarn.

본 발명의 또 다른 목적은 상기한 방법에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마와의 교직물을 제공하는 것이다.Still another object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric of silk yarn and silk yarn woven in accordance with the above method.

도 1은 본 발명 제조예 1에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마 교직물의 사진이고,Figure 1 is a photograph of silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric weaving according to Preparation Example 1 of the present invention,

도 2는 본 발명 제조예 2에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마 교직물의 사진이고,Figure 2 is a photograph of silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric weaving according to the preparation example 2 of the present invention,

도 3은 본 발명 제조예 3에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마 교직물의 사진이며,Figure 3 is a photograph of silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric weaving according to the preparation example 3 of the present invention,

도 4는 본 발명 제조예 1에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마 교직물의 조직도이고,Figure 4 is a tissue diagram of the silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric weaving according to Preparation Example 1 of the present invention,

도 5는 본 발명 제조예 2에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마 교직물의 조직도이고,5 is a structure diagram of silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric prepared according to Preparation Example 2 of the present invention,

도 6은 본 발명 제조예 3에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마 교직물의 조직도이다.Figure 6 is a tissue diagram of the silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric weaving according to Preparation Example 3 of the present invention.

상기한 목적을 달성하기 위하여 본 발명에 따른 견사와 저마의 교직물은 견사를 경사로 하고, 저마를 위사로 하여 다종광직기로 제직됨을 그 특징으로 한다.In order to achieve the above object, the silk fabric and silk yarn in accordance with the present invention is characterized in that the yarn is inclined, weed with a multi-fiber loom with the weft as a weft yarn.

상기한 본 발명의 목적, 그 외의 목적, 특징 및 장점은 하기 발명의 상세한 설명으로부터 당업자에게 명백하게 드러날 것이다.The above and other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description.

이하, 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

본 발명에 따른 교직물은 여름용 의류 소재인 모시직물을 대체할 수 있는 직물로서, 모시직물이 쉽게 구김이 가고, 실상태에서의 다양한 색상의 염색이 어려우며, 평직으로만 제직할 수 있는 것과 달리, 우수한 내구김성 및 고급스러운 광택을 가지고, 염색이 자유로운 견사를 사용하였기 때문에 천연염료에 의해 실상태에서의 염색이 가능하며 또한 다종광 직기의 사용이 가능하여 및 다양한 문양으로 연출할 수 있으며, 여름용 뿐만 아니라 봄, 가을용 의류의 소재로도 사용될 수 있다.Teaching fabric according to the present invention is a fabric that can replace the summer fabric material of ramie fabric, the fabric is easily wrinkled, it is difficult to dye a variety of colors in the real state, unlike weaving only plain weave, excellent Because it has durability and luxurious luster and freely dyed silk thread, it is possible to dye it in real state by natural dyes, and it is possible to use various kinds of looms and to produce various patterns. It can also be used as a material for autumn clothing.

이하, 본 발명의 제조방법을 공정에 따라 자세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the manufacturing method of the present invention in detail according to the process as follows.

(1) 단사 또는 2∼10합의 생사류를 200∼800T/M으로 연사하는 단계;(1) twisting single yarn or 2 to 10 raw silks at 200 to 800 T / M;

본 발명의 교직물 제조시 사용되는 생사류로는 생사 또는 작잠사가 있는데, 이들을 경사로 하여 교직물을 제조하기 위해서는 위사로 사용되는 저마와 굵기 정도가 유사하여야 한다. 따라서, 제직하기 전에 단사 또는 2∼10합의 생사류를 200∼800T/M으로 연사한다.Raw silk used in the manufacture of the teaching fabric of the present invention, there is a raw yarn or a small silk yarn, in order to produce a teaching fabric by inclining them to be similar to the thickness of the bottom yarn used as weft yarn. Therefore, before weaving, single yarn or 2 to 10 raw yarns are twisted at 200 to 800 T / M.

(2) 굿모시 상태의 저마를 표백하는 단계;(2) bleaching the bast of the gutmossy state;

저마는 통상적으로 모시직물로 제직된 후 표백 공정을 거치는 것이 작업도 편리하고 제품의 질감도 향상되나, 본원 발명의 생사류와 저마와의 교직물의 제조시에는 교직물 제직 후에 표백공정을 거치는 경우 표백처리 중의 표백제에 의하여 생사류가 손상을 받게 되므로, 교직물을 제직하기 전에 굿모시(실꾸리) 상태의 저마를 표백하는 것이 바람직하다. 한편, 표백시 굿모시 상태의 저마가 엉키는 것을 방지하기 위하여 2∼4곳에 엮음을 하여, 표백처리를 할 수 있다.It is convenient to work with the bleaching process after weaving the yam into the ramie fabric, and the texture of the product is also improved, but in the manufacture of the raw material of the raw silk and the yam of the present invention, the bleaching process is performed after the weaving of the weaving fabric. Since the raw silk is damaged by the bleaching agent in the middle, it is preferable to bleach the loin of the good moss before weaving the textile. On the other hand, in the case of bleaching, in order to prevent tangling of the good horseshoe state of tangling, weaving is carried out at 2-4 places, and bleaching process can be performed.

본 발명에서 사용되는 표백제의 종류는 특별히 한정되지 않지만, 예를 들면, 과산화수소 등의 과산화계, 아황산수소나트륨 등의 환원표백제를 사용할 수 있다. 바람직하게는, 과산화수소를 사용할 수 있다.Although the kind of bleach used by this invention is not specifically limited, For example, reducing bleaches, such as peroxides, such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydrogen sulfite, can be used. Preferably, hydrogen peroxide can be used.

표백은 표백제 5∼20g/ℓ, 규산소다 5∼10g/ℓ 및 약 1g/ℓ 비이온활성제와의 혼합액에 대하여 1:20∼80의 비로 굿모시 상태의 저마를 첨가하여 25∼50℃에서 3∼24시간동안 침지처리한 후, 온수로 수세한 다음 초산 수용액에서 중화하는 것에 의해 달성될 수 있다.Bleaching is carried out at 25 to 50 ° C. by adding a squirt in a state of good moss at a ratio of 1:20 to 80 with respect to a mixed solution of 5 to 20 g / l of bleach, 5 to 10 g / l of sodium silicate, and about 1 g / l of nonionic active agent After immersion for ˜24 hours, it can be achieved by washing with warm water and then neutralizing in aqueous acetic acid solution.

필요에 따라서는 표백을 하지 않은 굿모시를 그대로 사용할 수도 있다.If necessary, you can also use the unbleached Good Moss.

(3) 상기 (1)의 연사한 생사류를 경사로 하고, 상기 (2)의 표백된 저마를 위사로 하여 제직하는 단계;(3) weaving the twisted silk yarn of (1) with a warp yarn and weaving the bleached loin of (2) with a weft yarn;

상기 (1)에서 얻은 생사류를 경사로 사용하고, 상기 (2)에서 얻은 저마를 위사로 하여 통상적인 방법으로 교직물을 제직하였다.The raw yarn obtained in the above (1) was used as a warp yarn, and the weaving fabric was woven in the usual manner using the weed yarn obtained in the above (2) as the weft yarn.

한편, 상기 (1)단계에서 생사류가 생사인 경우, 연사한 생사를 정련하지 않고 그대로 사용할 수 있으나, 세탁 등에 의하여 세리신이 용탈되는 것을 방지하기 위하여 상기 연사한 생사를 0.25% 글루타알데히드 수용액에 대하여 1:20의 비로 첨가하여 55℃에서 1시간동안 침지처리한 후, 탄산소다 수용액과 온냉수에서 수세하여 풍건하는 공정을 더 포함할 수도 있다.On the other hand, if the raw silk is the raw silk in step (1), it can be used as it is without refining the twisted silk yarn, but in order to prevent the sericin from being leached by washing, etc. in the 0.25% glutaaldehyde aqueous solution It may further include a step of adding to a ratio of 1:20 to immersion treatment at 55 ℃ for 1 hour, followed by washing with air in an aqueous solution of sodium carbonate and hot and cold water to dry.

또한, 상기 (1)단계에서의 생사류가 작잠사인 경우, 작잠사는 암갈색 또는 다갈색으로 착색되어 있기 때문에, 작잠사를 표백하는 공정을 더 포함한다. 표백제는 저마의 표백시 사용된 표백제와 동일하다.In addition, when the live silk in step (1) is a small nap yarn, because the small nap yarn is colored dark brown or dark brown, further comprising the step of bleaching the small nasa. Bleach is the same bleach used in low bleaching.

그러나, 작잠사를 경사로 하여 제직된 교직물은 생사를 경사로 하여 제직된 교직물보다 가격이 저렴하고 모시에 가까운 깔깔한 감을 낼 수 있는 장점을 갖는다.However, the fabrics weaved by weaving the silk yarn as inclined have the advantage of being cheaper than the weaved fabrics inclined by the raw silk and giving a close feeling to moshi.

상기한 방법에 의해 제직된 본 발명의 교직물은, 모시제품이 염색하기 어려운 것과 달리, 천연염료로의 염색이 가능하므로, 다양한 색상의 직물을 제공할 수 있어, 고부가가치를 지닌 고급의류 소재로 활용할 수 있다. 한편, 생사류와 저마와의 교직물의 염색재로는 생사류 또는 저마를 염색할 수 있는 천연염료는 모두 사용가능하며, 저마는 셀룰로오스 섬유이고 견은 단백질 섬유이기 때문에 같은 재료의염료로 염색을 해도 저마와 견의 염색성이 각각 달라 독특한 효과를 낼 수 있는 장점도 있다.The teaching fabric of the present invention woven by the above-described method, unlike the difficult to dye dyeing products, can be dyed with natural dyes, it is possible to provide a variety of color fabrics, high-value clothing material with high added value Can be. On the other hand, as a dyeing material of raw silk and yam, all natural dyes that can dye raw silk or yam can be used. The yam is cellulose fiber and silk protein fiber. There is also an advantage in that the dyeability of the silk and the silk can be different.

이하, 제조예 및 시험예를 들어 본 발명을 상세히 설명하지만, 본 발명이 이들 예에만 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to production examples and test examples, but the present invention is not limited only to these examples.

제조예 1< Production Example 1 >

생사를 400T/M 정도로 연사하였다. 그 다음, 굿모시를 과산화수소 10g/ℓ, 규산소다 5g/ℓ 및 비이온활성제(Monopol NX, 동남합성(주)) 1g/ℓ와의 혼합액에 대하여 1:30의 비로 굿모시를 첨가하여 25℃에서 24시간동안 침지시킨 다음, 온수로 굿모시를 수세한 후, 0.5% 초산 수용액으로 중화하였다. 상기 연사된 생사를 경사로 하고, 상기 표백된 굿모시를 위사로 하여 교직물을 제직하였다.Raw silk was twisted at about 400T / M. Gutmoss was then added to the mixture of 10 g / l hydrogen peroxide, 5 g / l sodium silicate and 1 g / l nonionic activator (Monopol NX, Southeast Synthetic Co., Ltd.) at a ratio of 1:30, at 25 ° C. After soaking for 24 hours, the Gutmoss were washed with warm water and neutralized with an aqueous 0.5% acetic acid solution. Weaving the weaving fabrics using the twisted raw yarn as a slope and the bleached gutmossie as a weft yarn.

교직물의 사진을 도 1에 나타내었고, 그 조직도는 도 4와 같다.A photograph of the teaching material is shown in FIG. 1, and the organization chart is as shown in FIG. 4.

제조예 2< Production Example 2 >

생사를 400T/M 정도로 연사한 후 이를 0.25% 글루타알데히드 수용액에 대하여 1:20의 비로 첨가하여 55℃에서 1시간동안 침지시킨 다음, 0.1% 탄산소다 수용액 25㎖와 온냉수에서 수세하여 풍건하였다. 그 다음, 제조예 1에서와 동일한 방법으로 굿모시를 표백한 후, 상기 연사된 생사를 경사로 하고, 상기 표백된 굿모시를 위사로 하여 교직물을 제직하였다.The raw silk was twisted at about 400T / M and added to the 0.25% glutaaldehyde aqueous solution at a ratio of 1:20, immersed at 55 ° C for 1 hour, and then air-dried by washing with 25 ml of 0.1% aqueous sodium carbonate solution and hot and cold water. . Then, after bleaching the good moss in the same manner as in Preparation Example 1, weaving the weaving fabrics with the twisted raw silk as a slope, and the bleached good moss as a weft.

교직물의 사진을 도 2에 나타내었고, 그 조직도는 도 5와 같다.Photographs of the teaching material are shown in FIG. 2, and the organization is as shown in FIG. 5.

제조예 3< Production Example 3 >

작잠사를 400T/M 정도로 연사한 다음, 이를 과산화수소 30g/ℓ, 규산소다20g/ℓ 및 제2인산나트륨 10g/ℓ와의 혼합액에 대하여 1:20의 비로 첨가하여 40℃에서 8시간동안 처리하였다. 그 다음, 제조예 1에서와 동일한 방법으로 굿모시를 표백한 후, 상기 연사된 작잠사를 경사로 하고, 상기 표백된 굿모시를 위사로 하여 교직물을 제직하였다.The yarn was fired at about 400T / M, and then added to the mixed solution with 30 g / l hydrogen peroxide, 20 g / l sodium silicate and 10 g / l dibasic sodium phosphate in a ratio of 1:20 and treated at 40 ° C. for 8 hours. Then, after bleaching the good moss in the same manner as in Preparation Example 1, weaving the weaving fabrics with the yarns of the twisted jaksasa and the bleached gutmoss as a weft.

교직물의 사진을 도 3에 나타내었고, 그 조직도는 도 6과 같다.Photographs of the teaching material are shown in FIG. 3, and the organization is as shown in FIG. 6.

비교제조예 1Comparative Production Example 1

굿모시 200g을 첨가하여 25℃에서 24시간동안 침지시킨 다음, 온수로 굿모시를 수세한 후, 0.5% 초산 수용액으로 중화하였다. 상기 굿모시를 경사 및 위사로 하여 교직물을 제직하였다.200 g of gutmoss was added and immersed at 25 ° C. for 24 hours, followed by washing with gutmoss with warm water and neutralizing with an aqueous 0.5% acetic acid solution. Weaving fabrics were made with the gutmoss as warp and weft yarns.

시험예 1〉교직물의 물성 측정Test Example 1 〉 Measurement of physical properties of the fabric

상기에서 제조된 제조예 1 내지 3 및 비교제조예 1의 교직물의 물성을 하기의 방법으로 평가한 후, 그 결과를 하기 표 1에 나타내었다.After evaluating the physical properties of the fabrics of Preparation Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Preparation Example 1 prepared above, the results are shown in Table 1 below.

(1)제직성: 제직사 5명을 대상으로 하여 바디가 씨줄과 날줄을 교차할 때 교차의 용이성을 상대적으로 평가하여 상, 중, 하로 구분하게 하였다.(1) Weaving: Five weaving yarns were divided into upper, middle, and lower by evaluating the ease of crossing when the body crosses the string and the string.

(2)흡수율: 폭 3㎝, 길이 7㎝의 직물을 27±1℃의 증류수에 5㎝ 잠길만큼 담그고 20분간 방치한 후 꺼내어 30초간 자연상태에, 1분간 흡수지 사이에 두었다가, 처리 전후의 무게변화를 측정하였다.(2) Absorption rate: Soak cloth 3cm wide and 7cm long soaked 5cm in distilled water at 27 ± 1 ℃, leave for 20 minutes, take it out, put it in natural state for 30 seconds between absorbent paper, and weigh before and after treatment. The change was measured.

(3)강연도(루프법): 폭 2㎝, 길이 22㎝ 시료를 하트모양으로 늘여뜨릴 때의 길이 및 폭을 강연도 검사기(한원상사)로 측정하였다.(3) Intensity (loop method): The length and the width | variety at the time of extending | stretching a 2 cm width and a 22 cm length sample in the shape of a heart were measured with a stiffness tester (Hanwon Corporation).

(4)강연도(드레프법): 지름 24㎝의 직물을 지름 12.5㎝ 원판 위에 올려놓을때 나타나는 그림자를 지름 24㎝ 넓이에 대한 백분율로 나타내었으며, 강연도(드레프) 측정장치(한원상사)로 측정하였다.(4) Intensity (drip method): The shadow which appears when a fabric with a diameter of 24 cm is placed on a 12.5 cm diameter disk is expressed as a percentage of the width of a 24 cm diameter. Was measured.

(5)내구김성: 제조예 1 내지 3 및 비교제조예 1의 교직물을 원료로 하여 상의를 제조한 후, 동일 치수의 옷을 입는 남자 5명을 대상으로 하여 4번의 상의 각각을 하룻동안 착용하게 한 다음, 구김성을 상대적으로 평가하여 상, 중, 하로 구분하게 하였다.(5) Durability: After preparing the tops using the teaching materials of Preparation Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Production Example 1, each of the four tops was worn for 5 men wearing the same size for one day. Then, the wrinkles were relatively evaluated to divide them into upper, middle and lower.

교직물Teaching fabric 제직성Weaving 흡수율(%)Absorption rate (%) 강연도(루프법)Lecture degree (loop method) 강연도(%)(드레프법)Lecture degree (%) (drip method) 내구김성Durability 길이(㎜)Length (mm) 폭(㎜)Width (mm) 제조예 1Preparation Example 1 medium 52.852.8 5151 4646 91.191.1 medium 제조예 2Preparation Example 2 medium 47.347.3 5050 4747 93.293.2 medium 제조예 3Preparation Example 3 Prize 52.852.8 5151 4646 91.191.1 medium 비교제조예 1Comparative Production Example 1 Ha 48.848.8 4848 4242 95.195.1 Ha

상기 표 1로부터, 본 발명의 교직물의 제직성 및 내구성이, 모시직물보다 우수함을 알 수 있다.From Table 1, it can be seen that the weaving properties and durability of the teaching fabric of the present invention is superior to the ramie fabric.

제조예 4< Production Example 4 >

상수리 나뭇건잎 10g에 탄산나트륨 1g을 물 1ℓ에 첨가하여 95℃에서 끓인 후 액을 추출하였다. 이 추출액의 100배 용액에서 제조예 1의 시료를 30분간 침지시켜 염색하였다.1 g of sodium carbonate was added to 1 g of water, and 10 g of oak bark leaves were boiled at 95 ° C., and the liquid was extracted. The sample of Preparation Example 1 was immersed in a 100-fold solution of this extract for 30 minutes for dyeing.

제조예 5< Production Example 5 >

제조예 4에서 상수리 나뭇잎 대신에 호두과피 10g을 사용하는 것을 제외하고는 제조예 4와 동일한 방법에 의해 염색하였다.Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Preparation Example 4, except that 10g of Walnut rind instead of Oak leaves in Preparation Example 4.

제조예 6< Production Example 6 >

제조예 4에서 상수리 나뭇잎 대신에 뽕나무뿌리 10g을 사용하는 것을 제외하고는 제조예 4와 동일한 방법에 의해 염색하였다.Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Preparation Example 4, except that 10g of mulberry roots were used instead of the oak leaves in Preparation Example 4.

제조예 7< Production Example 7 >

소목의 모속 10g을 물 1ℓ에 넣고 95℃에서 끓인 다음 색소를 추출하였다. 제조예1의 교직물을 10% 명반 수용액에 대하여 1:100의 비로 첨가하고, 이를 상기 추출액에 30분간 침지시켜 염색하였다.10 g of seedling hairs were placed in 1 L of water, boiled at 95 ° C., and the pigment was extracted. The teaching material of Preparation Example 1 was added in a ratio of 1: 100 with respect to 10% alum aqueous solution, which was dyed by immersion in the extract for 30 minutes.

제조예 8< Production Example 8 >

상수리 나뭇건잎 10g에 탄산나트륨 1g을 물 1ℓ에 첨가하여 95℃에서 끓인 후 액을 추출하였다. 이 추출액의 100배 용액에서 제조예 3의 시료를 30분간 침지시켜 염색하였다.1 g of sodium carbonate was added to 1 g of water, and 10 g of oak bark leaves were boiled at 95 ° C., and the liquid was extracted. The sample of Preparation Example 3 was immersed in a 100-fold solution of this extract for 30 minutes for dyeing.

비교제조예 2Comparative Production Example 2

비교제조예 1의 교직물을 침지시킨다는 것을 제외하고는 제조예 4와 동일한 방법으로 염색하였다.Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Preparation Example 4, except that the teaching material of Comparative Preparation Example 1 was immersed.

비교제조예 3Comparative Production Example 3

비교제조예 1의 교직물을 침지시킨다는 것을 제외하고는 제조예 5와 동일한 방법으로 염색하였다.Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Preparation Example 5, except that the teaching material of Comparative Preparation Example 1 was immersed.

비교제조예 4Comparative Production Example 4

비교제조예 1의 교직물을 침지시킨다는 것을 제외하고는 제조예 6과 동일한 방법으로 염색하였다.Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Preparation Example 6, except that the teaching material of Comparative Preparation Example 1 was immersed.

비교제조예 5Comparative Production Example 5

비교제조예1의 교직물을 침지시킨다는 것을 제외하고는 제조예 7과 동일한 방법으로 염색하였다.Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Preparation Example 7, except that the teaching material of Comparative Preparation Example 1 was immersed.

시험예 2〉교직물의 염색 시험< Test Example 2 > Dyeing test of the textile

상기 제조예 4∼8의 교직물 및 비교제조예 2∼5의 모시직물에 대하여 색채는 Nippon Densuku SQ-300H를 이용하여 3회 측정한 후, 이를 평균한 값으로 하고, 염착농도는 하기 수학식 1에 의하여 구해진 K/R값으로 하여, 그 결과를 하기 표 2에 나타내었다.Colors were measured three times using Nippon Densuku SQ-300H for the teaching fabrics of Preparation Examples 4 to 8 and the fabrics of Comparative Preparation Examples 2 to 5, and then the average value was measured. As a K / R value obtained by, the results are shown in Table 2 below.

(수학식 1)(Equation 1)

K/S = (1-R)2/2RK / S = (1-R) 2 / 2R

색채(H V/C)Color (H V / C) 염착농도(K/S)Dyeing concentration (K / S) 제조예 4Preparation Example 4 5.76YR 3.09/1.225.76YR 3.09 / 1.22 8.538.53 제조예 5Preparation Example 5 8.36YR 2.57/0.648.36YR 2.57 / 0.64 10.3110.31 제조예 6Preparation Example 6 2.00Y 4.84/2.862.00Y 4.84 / 2.86 6.416.41 제조예 7Preparation Example 7 3.45R 3.06/4.353.45R 3.06 / 4.35 9.409.40 제조예 8Preparation Example 8 9.04YR 4.44/1.829.04YR 4.44 / 1.82 5.335.33 비교제조예 2Comparative Production Example 2 9.58YR 4.89/1.009.58YR 4.89 / 1.00 2.932.93 비교제조예 3Comparative Production Example 3 0.21Y 4.65/1.470.21Y 4.65 / 1.47 3.413.41 비교제조예 4Comparative Production Example 4 3.77Y 5.89/1.473.77Y 5.89 / 1.47 2.322.32 비교제조예 5Comparative Production Example 5 3.15R 3.35/4.313.15R 3.35 / 4.31 7.807.80

상기 표 2로부터 알 수 있는 바와 같이, 생사류와 저마와의 교직물이 순모시직물보다 염색성이 좋다.As can be seen from Table 2, the yarns of raw silk and yam are more dyed than the woolen fabric.

이상에서 설명한 바와 같이, 우리나라의 전통섬유로 유명하지만 다양한 제품개발이 뒤따르지 못해 소비자에게서 외면당하고 있는 모시직물에 또 다른 천연섬유이며, 고급섬유인 견섬유를 접함시킴으로 해서 직물의 물리적 특성과 외관에 고부가가치를 지니게할 뿐만 아니라 아직까지는 모시만으로 표현하기 어려운 다양한 조직의 제품을 개발하였으므로, 모시 제조 농가의 수익을 크게 향상시킬 수 있고, 전통 문화 계승 발전에 크게 기여할 수 있다.As explained above, it is famous as traditional textiles in Korea, but it is another natural fiber in woolen fabrics that are faced by consumers because it is not followed by various product developments. In addition to adding value, we have developed products from various organizations that are difficult to express yet, and can greatly improve the profits of ramie manufacturing farmers and contribute to the development of traditional cultural inheritance.

Claims (4)

견사를 경사로 하고, 저마를 위사로 하여 다종광 직기로 견사와 저마의 문직물인 교직물을 제직하는 방법.A method of weaving silk yarn and weaving fabrics, which is a textile of silk yarn, with a silk yarn as a warp yarn and a silk yarn as a weft yarn. 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1, (1) 단사 또는 2∼10합의 생사류를 200∼800T/M으로 연사하는 단계;(1) twisting single yarn or 2 to 10 raw silks at 200 to 800 T / M; (2) 굿모시 상태의 저마를 표백하는 단계;(2) bleaching the bast of the gutmossy state; (3) 상기 (1)의 연사한 생사류를 경사로 하고, 상기 (2)의 표백된 저마를 위사로 하여 제직하는 단계를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 견사와 저마 교직물의 제직방법.(3) a weaving method of silk yarn and low hemp woven fabric, comprising the step of weaving the twisted raw silk of said (1), and weaving the bleached loin of said (2) as a weft. 제 1항에 있어서, 상기 다종광 직기는 4종광, 8종광, 16종광 또는 24종광 직기임을 특징으로 하는 견사와 저마 교직물의 제직방법.The weaving method of silk yarn and low-yield fabrics according to claim 1, wherein the multi-jong loom is a 4-jong, 8-jong, 16-jong or 24-jong loom. 제 1항 또는 제 2항의 방법에 따라 제직된 견사와 저마의 교직물.Yarn and yarn fabrics woven in accordance with the method of claim 1 or 2.
KR1019990059344A 1999-12-20 1999-12-20 Manufacturing Method of Fancy Weaving in Silk/Ramie Mixture Fabrics KR20010064912A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013115540A1 (en) * 2012-01-31 2013-08-08 Back Seung Keun Method for manufacturing ramie fabric-reinforced natural yarn
CN115559043A (en) * 2022-10-31 2023-01-03 无锡鼎球绢丝纺有限公司 Production method of hemp blended woven fabric

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR900017061A (en) * 1989-04-06 1990-11-15 전유현 Method of manufacturing stretch fabric
KR20000013264A (en) * 1998-08-04 2000-03-06 김순심 Production method of union cloth using hemp fiber
KR20000009690U (en) * 1998-11-10 2000-06-05 김정태 Shirt with Hemp
KR100282251B1 (en) * 1998-10-29 2001-02-15 김강권 Raw fabrics and raw yarns and their preparation

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR900017061A (en) * 1989-04-06 1990-11-15 전유현 Method of manufacturing stretch fabric
KR20000013264A (en) * 1998-08-04 2000-03-06 김순심 Production method of union cloth using hemp fiber
KR100282251B1 (en) * 1998-10-29 2001-02-15 김강권 Raw fabrics and raw yarns and their preparation
KR20000009690U (en) * 1998-11-10 2000-06-05 김정태 Shirt with Hemp

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013115540A1 (en) * 2012-01-31 2013-08-08 Back Seung Keun Method for manufacturing ramie fabric-reinforced natural yarn
CN115559043A (en) * 2022-10-31 2023-01-03 无锡鼎球绢丝纺有限公司 Production method of hemp blended woven fabric

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