KR20010017986A - Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange - Google Patents

Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange Download PDF

Info

Publication number
KR20010017986A
KR20010017986A KR1019990033761A KR19990033761A KR20010017986A KR 20010017986 A KR20010017986 A KR 20010017986A KR 1019990033761 A KR1019990033761 A KR 1019990033761A KR 19990033761 A KR19990033761 A KR 19990033761A KR 20010017986 A KR20010017986 A KR 20010017986A
Authority
KR
South Korea
Prior art keywords
polyester
yarn
unstretched
undrawn
fiber
Prior art date
Application number
KR1019990033761A
Other languages
Korean (ko)
Other versions
KR100309498B1 (en
Inventor
황문섭
최경수
윤재홍
Original Assignee
조민호
주식회사 휴비스
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 조민호, 주식회사 휴비스 filed Critical 조민호
Priority to KR1019990033761A priority Critical patent/KR100309498B1/en
Publication of KR20010017986A publication Critical patent/KR20010017986A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of KR100309498B1 publication Critical patent/KR100309498B1/en

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/22—Stretching or tensioning, shrinking or relaxing, e.g. by use of overfeed and underfeed apparatus, or preventing stretch
    • D02J1/224—Selection or control of the temperature during stretching
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/22—Stretching or tensioning, shrinking or relaxing, e.g. by use of overfeed and underfeed apparatus, or preventing stretch
    • D02J1/228—Stretching in two or more steps, with or without intermediate steps
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14—Dyeability

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: Provided is a process for preparing a linen like polyester fiber capable of expressing melange effect and linen like external appearance at the same time by false twisting an undrawn polyester filament fiber and an undrawn cation dye dyeable polyester fiber. CONSTITUTION: This linen like polyester fiber is prepared by false twisting an undrawn polyester filament fiber and an undrawn cation dye dyeable polyester fiber and satisfies the following conditions: (1) the total fineness ratio of an undrawn polyester filament fiber and an undrawn cation dye dyeable polyester fiber is 1:1.2 to 1:0.6, (2) the fineness ratio of a monofilament of an undrawn cation dye dyeable polyester fiber and an undrawn polyester filament fiber is 1:1.1 to 1:2.0 and a first heat treatment temperature is 200 to 240deg.C.

Description

멜란지 효과가 있는 마조(麻調) 폴리에스테르사의 제조방법{Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange}Manufacturing method of linen polyester yarn with melange effect {Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange}

본 발명은 미연신 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사를 가연기로 복합 가연하여서 멜란지 효과가 발현 됨과 동시에 강한 마조 느낌을 주는 폴리에스테르사의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester yarn that has a melange effect and at the same time give a strong aroma feeling by complex combustion of the unstretched polyester filament yarn and the unstretched cationic dye salts polyester filament yarn with a combustor.

마조 느낌의 원사는 린넨 라이크 얀(linen-like yarn)이라고 하여 단순하게 미연신 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사만을 가연하여서 부분적으로 융착부가 존재 하도록 하는 방법으로 제조하였다.A marzo-like yarn was made by a linen-like yarn (linen-like yarn) simply by burning only the unstretched polyester filament yarn so that the fusion part is present.

또 상기 방법으로 부터 발전시킨 또 다른 제조방법으로는 마조 느낌이 있으면서 동시에 원사 자체가 두가지 톤이 발현되도록 하는 방법이 있는바, 이 방법은 방속이 틀린 두가지 폴리에스테르원사를 복합 가연하여 제조하는 방법으로서, 이 원사의 문제점은 두 원사가 모두 분산 염료에만 염색되므로 두 가지 톤이라는 것도 실제로는 같은 색의 농색 부분과 담색 부분으로 나누어질뿐 농담 차이는 미미하기 때문에 직 편물로 전개시 멜란지 효과가 미약 하였다.In addition, another manufacturing method developed from the above method is that there is a way to express two tones at the same time while the feeling of the masochism itself, this method is a method of manufacturing by composite twisting two polyester yarns with different flux The problem of this yarn is that both yarns are dyed only in disperse dyes, so the two tones are actually divided into dark and pale parts of the same color. .

본 발명은 마조 느낌이 강하게 나타나면서도 한 원사에 두 가지 색이 나타나 멜란지톤이 확실하게 발현 되도록 하는 폴리에스테르사의 제조방법을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있는 것이다.It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a polyester yarn that appears two colors on one yarn while showing a strong masochism.

본 발명은 미연신 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필리멘트사를 복합 할 때 멜란지 효과 및 마조효과가 동시에 가장 잘 발현될 수 있도록 전체 섬도비와 모노필라멘트의 섬도비를 적절하게 선정함과 동시에 열에 불안정한 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 열적 성질을 고려하여서 가연할때 열처리조건을 적정조건으로 설정하여 제조하는 것을 특징으로 하는 것이다.The present invention is suitable for the fineness ratio of the total fineness and the monofilament so that the melange effect and the aforesaid effect can be best expressed simultaneously when the unstretched polyester filament yarn and the unstretched cationic dye are mixed with the salted polyester filament yarn. At the same time, the unstretched cationic dyes, which are unstable to heat, are manufactured by setting heat treatment conditions to appropriate conditions when combusting in consideration of the thermal properties of the salted polyester yarn.

본 발명을 더욱 상세하게 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention is described in more detail as follows.

첫째, 미연신 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사의 전체 섬도비는 1 : 1.2 ∼ 1 : 0.6의 범위 내에 있도록 하였다.First, the total fineness ratio of the unstretched polyester filament yarn and the unstretched cationic dye salted polyester filament yarn was in the range of 1: 1.2 to 1: 0.6.

만약 전체 섬도비가 1.2를 초과하거나 0.6미만의 경우는 직물이나 편물로 전개시 염색줄이 발생하거나 멜란지 효과가 약하다.If the total fineness ratio exceeds 1.2 or less than 0.6, dyeing lines or weak melange effect occur when developing into a fabric or knit fabric.

가장 좋은 전체 섬도의 비는 1 : 0.95이다.The best ratio of total islands is 1: 0.95.

둘째, 미연신 폴리에스테르사의 모노필라멘트와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 모노필라멘트의 섬도 비는 미연신 폴리에스테르사의 모노섬도가 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 모노섬도의 1.1배 이상 2 배가 되도록 하였다.Second, the fineness ratio of the monofilament of the unstretched polyester yarn and the monofilament of the unstretched cationic dye salt polyester is not less than 1.1 times the mono fineness of the unstretched polyester salt salt polyester It was doubled.

만일 1.1배 미만이면 직, 편물로 전개시 염색 후 염색줄이 발생하며, 2 배를 초과하면 직, 편물로 전개시 멜란지 효과의 발현이 너무 미미하게 나타난다.If less than 1.1 times, dyed lines are generated after dyeing when developing into a woven or knitted fabric, and when the fold exceeds 2 times, the expression of the melange effect appears too small when developed into a knitted or knitted fabric.

가장 좋은 모노섬도의 차이는 미연신 폴리에스테르사의 모노필라멘트사의 섬도가 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 모노필라멘트 섬도보다 약 1.6 배일 때이다.The best difference in mono fineness is when the fineness of the monofilament yarn of the unstretched polyester yarn is about 1.6 times that of the monofilament fineness of the unstretched cationic dye salt.

상기 두 가지 원사를 가연기를 사용하여 복합 가연한다.The two yarns are composite combusted using a combustor.

복합가연 방법은 아래와 같이 하였다.The composite combustion method was as follows.

첫째, 일반 마조 원사를 만드는 방법과 동일한 사도로 처리하되 미연신 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사의 신도차가 있으므로 이를 해결 하기 위해 두개의 피더를 사용하여 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트 사만 약간의 연신을 주어 균일한 마조 효과를 나타나게 하였다.First, it is treated with the same yarn as the method of making a general marjoram, but there is a difference in elongation between unstretched polyester filament yarn and unstretched cationic dye salt chloride polyester filament yarn. Only the salty polyester filament yarns were slightly stretched to give a uniform masonic effect.

둘째, 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사는 열에 불안정함으로 열경화가 일어나지 않도록 함과 동시에 마조 효과가 강하게 나타나도록 첫 번째 히터의 열처리 온도를 200℃ ∼ 240℃로 설정하였다.Second, the unstretched cationic dye chlorinated polyester filament yarn was set to a heat treatment temperature of the first heater to 200 ℃ ~ 240 ℃ to prevent thermal curing due to heat instability and at the same time a strong masochism.

만약 처리온도가 200℃ 미만이면 열처리 효과를 기대할 수 없고, 처리온도가 240℃를 초과하면 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사는 열경화를 일으켜 염색성이 떨어지며 멜란지 효과도 제대로 발휘 되지 않는다.If the treatment temperature is less than 200 ℃ heat treatment effect can not be expected, if the treatment temperature exceeds 240 ℃ unstretched cationic dye salt-dyed polyester filament yarns due to the heat curing, the dyeability is poor and the melange effect is not properly exhibited.

실시예Example

미연신 폴리에스테르 126데니어 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 115데니어 필라멘트사를 사용하되, 미연신 폴리에스테르사의 모노필라멘트사의 섬도가 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 모노필리멘트 섬도의 1.6 배인 두 가지 원사를 사용하여 복합 가연 하였다.The unstretched polyester 126 denier filament yarn and the unstretched cationic dye salted polyester 115 denier filament yarn are used, but the unfinished polyester monofilament yarn fineness of the unstretched cationic dye salted polyester monofilament fineness The composite was combusted using two yarns 1.6 times.

전체 연신은 1.38배, 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사만 1.03배 더 연신하여 첫번째 히터에서 228℃, 두번째 히터에서는 200℃로 처리 하였다.The total stretching was 1.38 times, and only the cationic dye salted polyester filament yarn was stretched 1.03 times, which was treated at 228 ° C. in the first heater and 200 ° C. in the second heater.

이렇게 제조한 원사를 경위사 모두에 사용하여 트윌(twill)조직으로 레피드직기에서 제직 하였고, 로터리와셔에서 105℃ 20분 동안 정련 축소 하였고, 170℃에서 30초간 열고정 후 4% 가성소다 수용액에서 10분동안 감량 하였다.The yarns thus prepared were used in both the weft yarns and weaved in a rapid weaving machine with twill tissue, and then refined and reduced in a rotary washer at 105 ° C. for 20 minutes, and after heat setting at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds in a 4% aqueous solution of caustic soda. The weight was lost for 10 minutes.

염색공정은 120℃에서 30분동안 실시 하였으며 염료는 분산염료와 캐티온염료를 동시에 사용하여 1욕에서 실시 하였다.The dyeing process was carried out for 30 minutes at 120 ℃ and the dye was carried out in one bath using a dispersion dye and a cationic dye at the same time.

염색 후 160℃에서 1분간 최종 열고정하여 직물을 제조 하였고 직물표면에 나타난 멜란지 효과나 마조 효과, 염색줄 발생여부를 검토하여 그 결과를 표에 나타 내었다.After dyeing, the fabric was fabricated by final heat setting at 160 ° C. for 1 minute, and the results were examined by examining the melange effect, the masochistic effect, and the occurrence of dyed lines on the fabric surface.

비교예 1Comparative Example 1

미연신 폴리에스테르 126데니어 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 150데니어 필라멘트사를 이용하여 실시예와 동일한 조건으로 원사 제조 및 제직 가공 하였다.Yarn production and weaving were carried out under the same conditions as in the examples using the unstretched polyester 126 denier filament yarn and the unstretched cationic dye salted polyester 150 denier filament yarn.

비교예 2Comparative Example 2

미연신 폴리에스테르 126데니어 필라멘트사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르 75데니어 필라멘트사를 이용하여 실시예와 동일한 조건으로 원사 제조 및 제직 가공 하였다.Yarn production and weaving were carried out under the same conditions as in the examples using the unstretched polyester 126 denier filament yarn and the unstretched cationic dye salty polyester 75 denier filament yarn.

비교예 3Comparative Example 3

실시예와 동일한 원사를 이용하여 복합 가연시 첫번째 히터처리온도만 250℃로 처리하고 나머지 조건들은 실시예와 동일한 조건으로 실시 하였다.Using the same yarn as in the embodiment, only the first heater treatment temperature was treated at 250 ° C. during complex combustion, and the remaining conditions were performed under the same conditions as in the example.

비교예 4Comparative Example 4

실시예와 동일한 원사를 이용하여 복합 가연시 첫번째 히터처리온도만 190℃로 처리하고 나머지 조건들은 실시예와 동일한 조건으로 실시 하였다.Using the same yarn as in the embodiment, only 1st heater treatment temperature was treated at 190 ° C. during complex combustion, and the remaining conditions were performed under the same conditions as in the example.

비교예 5Comparative Example 5

실시예와 동일한 섬도의 원사를 사용하되 미연신 폴리에스테르사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 모노 필라멘트사의 섬도비가 1 : 0.9인 원사를 이용하여 실시예와 동일한 조건으로 원사 제조 및 제직 가공 하였다.The yarns of the same fineness as in Example were used, but the yarns having a fineness ratio of 1: 0.9 of the monofilament yarns of the unstretched polyester yarn and the unstretched cationic dye-salt polyester yarn were manufactured and woven under the same conditions as in the example. .

〈표〉<table>

*. ◎ : 아주 양호, ○: 양호, △ : 약간 불량,*. ◎: very good, ○: good, △: slightly poor,

본 발명으로 제조된 폴리에스테르사는 분산염료 또는 캐티온염료 단독으로 염색하더라도 멜란지 효과 및 마조 효과를 동시에 발현 시킬수 있다.The polyester yarn prepared according to the present invention can express the melange effect and the marzo effect simultaneously even when dyed with a disperse dye or cationic dye alone.

또 분산염료와 캐티온 염료를 동시에 사용하되 보색 관계에 있는 색을 선정하면 멜란지 효과를 더욱 강조 할 수 있는 장점이 있으며 직 편물 모두에 광범위하게 적용할 수 있다.In addition, the use of disperse dyes and cationic dyes at the same time, but select a color complementary to have a more melancholy effect can be emphasized, it can be widely applied to both knitted fabrics.

Claims (1)

미연신 폴리에스테르사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사를 복합가연 시키되 다음 조건이 모두 만족 되도록 제조함을 특징으로 하는 멜란지 효과가 있는 마조(麻調) 폴리에스테르사의 제조방법.A method of producing a marjoline polyester yarn having a melange effect, characterized in that the unstretched polyester yarn and the unstretched cationic dye salt-dyed polyester yarn are composite flammable, so that all of the following conditions are satisfied. 다 음next ·미연신 폴리에스테르사와 미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사의 총 섬도비 ;Total fineness ratio of unoriented polyester yarn and unoriented cationic dye salt polyester; 1 : 1.2 ∼ 1 : 0.61: 1.2 to 1: 0.6 ·미연신 캐티온염료가염성 폴리에스테르사와 미연신 폴리에스테르사의 모노필라멘트의 섬도비 ;Fineness ratio of the monofilament of unstretched cationic dye salty polyester yarn and unstretched polyester yarn; 1 : 1.1 ∼ 1 : 2.01: 1.1 to 1: 2.0 ·첫 번째 열처리 온도First heat treatment temperature 200 ∼ 240℃200 ~ 240 ℃
KR1019990033761A 1999-08-16 1999-08-16 Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange KR100309498B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1019990033761A KR100309498B1 (en) 1999-08-16 1999-08-16 Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1019990033761A KR100309498B1 (en) 1999-08-16 1999-08-16 Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
KR20010017986A true KR20010017986A (en) 2001-03-05
KR100309498B1 KR100309498B1 (en) 2001-09-26

Family

ID=19607402

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
KR1019990033761A KR100309498B1 (en) 1999-08-16 1999-08-16 Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange

Country Status (1)

Country Link
KR (1) KR100309498B1 (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100600137B1 (en) * 1999-12-17 2006-07-13 주식회사 휴비스 Preparation of polyester mixed twist yarn and polyester mixed twist yarn

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100600137B1 (en) * 1999-12-17 2006-07-13 주식회사 휴비스 Preparation of polyester mixed twist yarn and polyester mixed twist yarn

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
KR100309498B1 (en) 2001-09-26

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP3486356A2 (en) Denim fabric and its use
GB2287966A (en) Woven fabrics with coloured effects
KR20030037711A (en) Method for processing textiles by using coloring-added burnout
KR100309498B1 (en) Manufacturing of linen like yarn having effect of melange
JP4061392B2 (en) Twisted yarn and dyeing method thereof
EP4146851A1 (en) Spundyed cellulosic fiber
JPH07310292A (en) Fabric for product accompanying washing process of product and its production
JP3547230B2 (en) Elastic knitted fabric that changes color according to elongation and method of manufacturing the same
CN113755997A (en) Copper ammonia silk-like elastic knitted fabric and preparation method and application thereof
JP4058689B2 (en) Spun yarn for frost land and dyeing method thereof
JPS63152403A (en) Easily dyed polyester garment and dyeing method
WO2014100841A2 (en) Flame retardant lyocell article dyed to give good light and washing fastness
CN109208141A (en) A kind of production technology of pro-skin type high-count high-density fabric
JP2657658B2 (en) Unique dyed hemp fiber structure and its dyeing method
JPH054474B2 (en)
JP7434675B2 (en) Cationic dye-dyeable regenerated cellulose fiber, its manufacturing method and fiber structure
JP4058690B2 (en) Different color dyeable and knitted fabric and dyeing method thereof
JP2935008B2 (en) Polyester core-sheath composite fiber and method for producing the same
KR920008964B1 (en) Process for the production of dyeing property excellent conjugated yarn
JP2680133B2 (en) Embroidery lace and its manufacturing method
JPH07292516A (en) Polyester sheath-core conjugate fiber and method for producing the same
KR100588386B1 (en) Preparation method of polyester stretched filament and polyester stretched filament produced by the method
CN114875560A (en) Printing and embossing combined high-end knitted fabric and preparation method thereof
JPH08176968A (en) Production of dyed polyesteer fiber cloth
JPH0754280A (en) Dyed polyester fiber cloth and production thereof

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
A201 Request for examination
N231 Notification of change of applicant
E701 Decision to grant or registration of patent right
GRNT Written decision to grant
FPAY Annual fee payment

Payment date: 20040831

Year of fee payment: 4

LAPS Lapse due to unpaid annual fee