KR20000002238A - Suede style knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A suede style knitted fabric are provided to organize a base grey with a specific warp knitting for increasing a tensile strength of a fabric and obtaining a good elastic property, wearing feeling, durability while sewing a garment. CONSTITUTION: A suede style knitted fabric and a manufacturing method thereof comprise: a warp knitted grey knitted from a semi-dull yarn with a terry structure to 20-27 course per centimeter of density, 72-100'' of width, and 300-500 grams per yard for reducing weight and drying after being treated in a high-temperature and low concentration of alkali solution; forming a file on the surface of the warp knitted grey for neatly raising, dusting, and shearing to one direction; drying in a lower temperature than the drying temperature for fastening treatment; and adjusting each side while additionally treating using a softener.

Description

Suede knit fabric and method of manufacturing the same

The present invention relates to a suede-like knitted fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, more specifically, a suede-like knitted fabric which can give a natural suede feeling by specially treating a warp knitted fabric knitted using a microfiber yarn which is a sheath-core yarn. And to a preparation method thereof.

In general, brushed and woolen fabrics such as cut piles, double laselles, velours, velvets, etc. are widely used as suede garments and interior fabrics.

However, these fabrics, which are mainly woven with synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers or polyester fibers, are often pulled out due to curling or brushed piles during cutting, so that the appearance, texture, dyeing, gloss, drape, etc. It was not satisfactory in terms of aspect and was still unsuitable as a high-end garment fabric.

In other words, woven fabrics are damaged when brushed files are cut or sewn, and a separate overlocking or interlocking process is required. In the case of circular knitted fabrics, Both sides of the fabric were rolled up, which made it difficult to cut and sew.In addition, in the case of warp knitted fabrics such as velvet and tricot tissues as well as circular knitted fabrics, a large number of lines after the processing of the knitted dough were spaced at regular intervals or irregularly. As a result, the phenomenon that appeared clearly on the raising fabric was inevitable.

In addition, various methods have been proposed to provide artificial suede fabrics for high-quality garments by modifying or specially processing the yarn to be woven. Among them, Japanese Patent Publication No. 50-40195 is a representative example. The technique of immersing in an alkaline solution and heating to taper the ends of the yarn is disclosed, but in this case, the whole yarn is fined, the strength of the fabric is significantly weakened, and the fabric is so weak that it is too flexible to be suitable for clothing. Korean Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-154435 discloses a method of etching and tapering a sheath-core polyester composite fiber made of a core polymer including a gloss remover and a cs polymer having almost the same hydrolysis rate. It did not improve color development and gloss.

In addition, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 56-134272 has a high hydrolyzability by treating a hair of a composite fiber containing two polymers having different hydrolyzability and having a multi-sided cross-section or a composite sheath-core type. Techniques for splitting the ends of the hairs by removing the polymer have been described, but the hairs were not tapered to the ends, resulting in an unnatural appearance and feel.

In Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication Nos. 55-112306, 55-112385, 55-137241 and 64-201549, alkali-etched napped fabrics made of fine particles-containing fibers have good color development during dyeing, but the touch and gloss deteriorate. The fabric ends were rough and could not give a luxurious feel.

The present inventor has been engaged in the manufacturing of knitted fabrics for a long time to solve the problems of the various techniques described above to develop a knitted fabric that can give a natural suede feel, by specially processing the warp knitted fabric made of microfiber in a simple manner In addition to the elasticity and excellent tensile strength unique to warp knitted fabrics, the brushed pile has almost the same gloss, touch, color, flexibility, and drape as it does not wear out or slip off even during cutting and sewing. In addition to this problem, a number of streaks are generated on the surface of the fabric after the processing of knitted dough, which has not yet been identified. .

In other words, the present invention provides a feeling almost the same as natural high-quality suede by knitting the dough as a special warp knitting, and also by selecting the processing method appropriately to give a suede feeling, but rather the elasticity is better To provide a suede-like knitted fabric excellent in durability and fit and a method of manufacturing the same.

The following drawings illustrate the knitting method of the basic warp knitted fabric in the suede knitted fabric of the present invention,

1 is a complete organization chart of the bottom yarn mainly constituting the basic warp knitting dough,

Figure 2 is a complete organizational diagram of the weaving yarns interconnecting the wales (bottom) of the bottom of the basic warp dough.

The suede-like knitted fabric according to the present invention is a terry structure using a semi-dull yarn as the bottom yarn as the bottom island yarn, and a density 20-27c (course) / cm, width 72-100˝, A primary weight loss step of heating the warp knitting dough knitted at a weight of 300-500 g / yd into a refining tank of an alkaline solution containing a very small amount of a general refining agent and heating at 120-150 ° C. for 25-35 minutes;

A drying step of advancing the washed warp knitting paper after the first weight loss treatment at a speed of 25-35yd / min in a dryer of 170-190 ° C;

A re-weighting step of immersing the dried warp knit dough in a high concentration sodium hydroxide solution of 25% or more maintained at 80-90 ° C. for 20-30 minutes;

Drying step of washing washed warp dough after the second weight loss treatment at a speed of 25-35yd / min in a dryer of 170-190 ° C;

A brushing step of forming a pile on the surface of the reduced-dried warp knitting paper and trimming them in one direction;

Dyeing process of dyed brushed dough kneading 50-60 minutes in a high-temperature dyeing bath of 130-135 ℃;

A heat-setting process of drying the dyed warp knitting paper at a temperature of 150 ° C. or below for color fastening;

Raising step of rearranging irregular files after the heat setting process;

A finishing process of trimming both sides of the processed warp knitting dough with a softener;

It is manufactured by going through a processing step consisting of.

Suede-like knitted fabric according to the present invention is mainly selected from among polyester-based or polyamide-based fibers alone or mixed fibers thereof, and is knitted, and is thus processed, thus raising the brushing without appearing on the fabric surface after the conventional processing. The overall uniform fabric is produced.

Hereinafter, the manufacturing method of the suede-like knitted fabric according to the present invention will be described as follows.

(1st weight loss process)

Knitting dough composed of island-in-the-sea microfiber yarn as a bottom yarn and a semi-dull yarn was put into a refining tank of alkaline solution containing a very small amount of general refining agent, and heated at 120-150 ℃ for 25-35 minutes. In addition, the dough is first reduced.

(1st drying process)

After the first weight loss treatment, the washed warp knitting paper is dried in a high-temperature dryer at 170-190 ° C. at a rate of 25-35 yd / min.

(Secondary reduction process)

The first dried warp knitting paper was immersed in a high concentration of sodium hydroxide solution of 25% or more maintained at 80-90 ° C. for 20-30 minutes and then reduced and washed again. With this weight loss treatment, warp knitting paper is completely called out and its weight is reduced by 25% than before treatment.

In this case, the island-in-the-sea island microfiber yarn is almost completely divided, so that the feel of the fabric becomes considerably soft.

(2nd drying process)

The second weight-reduced warp knitting paper is dried under the same conditions as in the first drying step.

(1st raising process)

Again, weight loss drying treated warp knitting paper is formed on the surface of the hair pile and comb them in one direction, and hairs.

(Dyeing process)

The dyeing method is selected from S-Type, SE-Type or E-Type according to the material of the raised warp dough, but is usually dyed at a high temperature of 130 ℃ or higher of S-Type, and soaked for 50-60 minutes.

Since the suede-like knit fabric of the present invention is composed of island-in-the-sea fine microfibers, attention should be paid to the selection of dye particles, and as small particles as possible are preferred because of their good dye penetration.

(Heat setting)

Dyed warp dough made of microfiber is more subdivided through weight loss and brushing process, so it must be carefully treated at heat setting and sublimation degree must be dried at a temperature below 150 ℃.

(2nd raising process)

Since the raised warp knitting dough is dyed or irregularly entangled in one place during the dyeing process, the irregular pile is rearranged after the heat setting process.

The warp knitting paper, after such treatment, is divided into 150-190 strands and is very soft.

(Finishing process)

The processed warp knitted fabric is further treated with a softener containing a nonflammable agent, an antifouling agent, an elasticity increasing agent and the like, while giving flexibility to the knitted fabric, both sides are trimmed, inspected, and then wound and packed in units.

In order to more easily understand the suede-like knitted fabric of the present invention manufactured through these processes will be described in more detail through the following working example, the present invention is not limited thereto, but the spirit of the present invention and the appended claims It is obvious that modifications or variations are possible within the scope.

Example

With 130D DTY / 36 f each composed of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) as the bottom yarn and 50D SD / 8f as the weaving yarn, these bottom yarns and the weaving yarn are shown in Figures 1a) and 1b) at a ratio of 4: 1. Knitting was carried out in the same manner as described above to obtain a warp knitted dough of 72 mm wide and 300 g / yd in weight.

This warp dough was immersed in a 2% sodium hydroxide solution, heated at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, washed with water after the first weight loss treatment, and then washed at 180 ° C. at a rate of 30yd / min using a pin-tenter. Dried.

After that, the warp knitting paper was again immersed in 25% sodium hydroxide solution and heated at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes to reduce the weight of the warp knitting paper to about 1/4, and washed again with water in the same manner as above. It was dried again.

After raising and totally reducing the surface of the warp-knitted dough, the warp knitting was carried out in a 10: 1 dye bath in which a brown dye of Mikaton (product name) manufactured by Mitsubishi Corporation in Japan was added in an amount of 3.2 kg per 100 kg of water. Dough was added, soaked at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, washed with water, and dried completely at a temperature of 145 ° C.

After raising the surface of completely dried warp knit dough, the surface is re-arranged and passed through a bath containing silicone softener and anti-fouling agent, and squeezed with mangle and proceeded to tenter to secure the width of warp knitted fabric and fix knitting. It was.

The fineness of one strand of the warp knitted fabric thus manufactured was very fine and light in touch with 0.015D, and the uniformity of raising was almost the same as that of natural sheepskin suede. However, no strings were found on the surface of the fabric after the processing of the dough, as in the existing knitted fabrics.

The suede-like knitted fabric according to the present invention manufactured by the above process completely solves the problems caused by the peeling of the pile from the existing brushed woven fabric and the protrusion of the string on the surface generated after processing in circular knitting and other knitted fabrics. At the same time, the gloss, touch, and drape are the same as that of natural high-quality suede, which is almost indistinguishable unless it is closely examined through direct touch.Also, the fabric strength is reduced and brushed piles are raised due to alkali treatment of synthetic suede fabrics. Unlike conventional suede fabrics made of conventional woven or circular knitted fabrics, which are not uniform, due to the deterioration of color development and significantly low durability, the tensile strength of the fabric is rather increased as the basic dough is knitted with a unique warp knitted fabric, but not stretched to length. It is easy to work with the characteristic of warp and stretched width and is sewn into clothing When stretched, it has exceptional elasticity, excellent shape stability, comfortable fit, and long life due to its excellent durability. Even long-term wear does not wear even a lot of friction, such as sleeves, collars, and pockets, and it can be worn like a new one for a long time. As a high-end garment fabric will have a remarkable effect.

Claims (5)

The warp knitting dough composed of ductile density 20-27c / cm, width 72-100˝, and weight 300-500g / yd by terry tissue using semi-derive yarn as island-like microfiber as weaving yarn, and very small amount of general refining agent A first weight loss step of heating the solution for 25-35 minutes at 120-150 ° C. in a refining tank of the contained alkaline solution; A drying step of advancing the washed warp knitting paper after the first weight loss treatment at a speed of 25-35yd / min in a dryer of 170-190 ° C; A re-weighting step of immersing the dried warp knit dough in a high concentration sodium hydroxide solution of 25% or more maintained at 80-90 ° C. for 20-30 minutes; Drying step of washing washed warp dough after the second weight loss treatment at a speed of 25-35yd / min in a dryer of 170-190 ° C; A brushing step of forming a pile on the surface of the reduced-dried warp knitting paper and trimming them while cutting them neatly in one direction; Dyeing process of dyed brushed dough kneading 50-60 minutes in a high-temperature dyeing bath of 130-135 ℃; A heat-setting process of drying the dyed warp knitting paper at a temperature of 150 ° C. or below for color fastening; Raising step of rearranging irregular files after the heat setting process; A finishing step of trimming both sides while treating the processed warp knitted dough with a softener; By going through the process steps consisting of, a method of producing a suede-like knitted fabric, characterized in that the brush is uniform without a large number of lines on the fabric surface without leaving the brush pile. The method of manufacturing a suede-like knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the bottom yarn and the weave yarn are each made of polyester fibers or polyamide fibers, or blended fibers thereof. A suede-like knitted fabric produced by the method according to claim 1, which has no detachment of brushed piles and is not uniformed with a large number of lines on its fabric surface after processing of dough. The suede knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein the bottom yarn is 130D DTY / 36f as an island-in-the-sea microfiber yarn, and the weaved yarn consists of 50D SD / 8f. The suede-like knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein the bottom yarn and the weave yarn are each made of one of polyester fibers or polyamide fibers, or blended fibers thereof.