KR102444133B1 - Cosmetic composition comprising solid polymer components having improved solubility - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with improved solubility of the functional ingredient in the solid phase, which has excellent solubility in the liquid cosmetic composition and can prevent changes in hardness and pH of the liquid composition due to dissolution, thereby providing a cosmetic with excellent stability do.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a solid polymer with improved solubility {COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SOLID POLYMER COMPONENTS HAVING IMPROVED SOLUBILITY}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a solid polymer having improved solubility.

In general, in cosmetics, polymers such as hyaluronic acid or collagen, and functional ingredients such as vitamins and antioxidants are used for skin improvement for the purpose of whitening, wrinkle improvement, skin elasticity enhancement, moisturizing, skin regeneration promotion, and removal of harmful oxygen. It has been used as an active ingredient. However, such an active ingredient may increase the viscosity of cosmetics or react with other ingredients, or if it exists in an aqueous solution or comes into contact with water, it may be easily destroyed by oxidation by exposure to light or air, or Or the smell changed, there was a limit to use as a cosmetic. As a method for solving these problems, stabilizing active ingredients and maximizing the efficacy of skin improvement, a method of formulating a solid component in powder form has been proposed (Patent Document 1). In the case of providing cosmetics by separating the powder-type solid component and the formulation of the component for dissolving it, there is an advantage that the user feels a new feeling of use by directly mixing and using the solid powder, in addition to the advantages presented above.

However, in cosmetics provided by separating the powder-type solid component from the formulation of the component for dissolving it, in a liquid formulation with low fluidity such as a cream, it is difficult for the solid component to penetrate into the formulation or due to the limitation of hydration in the formulation, it is re-dissolved. is not well made, so there is a limit in diversifying cosmetic formulations containing the above-mentioned solid ingredients.

Therefore, in order to provide a variety of cosmetic formulations, additional research is required for the development of a solid composition having improved solubility in various formulations.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 63-130514

As described above, in order to solve the problem that the re-dissolution of the water-dispersible polymer component does not occur well in the emulsion-formulated cosmetic with low fluidity, a cosmetic composition comprising a freeze-dried component of a composition containing a basic amino acid and a water-dispersible polymer, cosmetics Or it aims to provide a kit for cosmetics.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic composition comprising a freeze-dried component of the composition comprising a water-dispersible polymer and a basic amino acid.

The freeze-dried component including the water-dispersible polymer of the present invention and the basic amino acid together contains the basic amino acid, so that when the freeze-dried component is mixed with the formulation for dissolving it, it reacts with the polymer in the formulation to separate water molecules , it can facilitate re-dissolution of the lyophilized component in the formulation.

In the present invention, a solid phase means a solid state. The liquid composition may be solidified through a process such as drying, crystallization, and granulation, and may be processed again through a process such as pulverization to have a size within a predetermined range.

In the present invention, the freeze-dried component is an example of the solid phase, and is meant to include all of the freeze-dried or freeze-dried water pulverized again.

The basic amino acid of the present invention is meant to include all basic amino acids and derivatives thereof. Including a functional group capable of binding to a hydrophilic functional group contained in a component, such as a polymer included in a high hardness liquid formulation, reacts with the polymer to generate water molecules, thereby re-solubility of a functional ingredient in a high hardness liquid formulation plays a role in improving For example, a functional group capable of bonding with a carboxyl group (-COO-) contained in a polymer included in a liquid formulation such as a cream or the like may include an amine group (NH ₃ ⁺ ). The functional group included in the basic amino acid weakens the hydrogen bond between the hydrophilic functional group of the polymer in the liquid formulation and the hydroxyl group (-OH) of water when the basic amino acid and the emulsion formulation are mixed, so that water molecules can be eluted, and the water molecules They can be easily combined with the components of the solid phase to improve the hydration of the components of the solid phase in the formulation, thereby improving the solubility or resolubility of the components of the solid phase.

In addition, the basic amino acid includes an amine group (NH ₃ ⁺ ), and has a structure including a carboxyl group or two or more hydroxyl groups, and has a structure that can act as a proton donor and acceptor in one molecule It can act as a buffer solution. For this reason, when the solid cosmetic containing the basic amino acid is mixed with the cosmetic with low fluidity, the pH in the formulation is prevented from significantly changing, despite the increase in re-solubility of the solid phase, thereby preventing the decrease in fluidity of the formulation, stability can be maintained.

The basic amino acid is, for example, arginine, lysine, asparagine, histidine, citrulline, ornithine, tromethamine, and cis It may be one or more selected from the group consisting of teamine (cysteamine), but is not limited thereto.

In the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention, the basic amino acid includes 1 to 90% (w/w), specifically 5 to 35% (w/w), but is not limited thereto.

The functional component is a component included in the cosmetic for a predetermined purpose, and in the present invention, the functional component may be a component having low re-solubility in an emulsion formulation having low fluidity.

The number of types of the functional component is not limited, and may include one or more polymer components. The polymer is not limited in size, but preferably a polymer of 300 kDa or less, more preferably 50 kDa or less. In the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention, the functional ingredient may be included in an amount of 0.01% to 90% (w/w), preferably 10 to 80% (w/w).

The functional ingredient may be, for example, at least one of a water-dispersible polymer and a keratin care ingredient.

The water-dispersible polymer is a polymer having a property of being soluble in water, for example, collagen, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid, beta glucan, xanthan gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, biosaccharide ¸cellulose, It may be one or more selected from the group consisting of cellulose gum, arabic gum, gelatin, agar, carrageenan, algin, chitosan, starch, galactomannan, glucomannan, guar gum, locust bean gum, alginate and gellan, but is limited thereto not.

The keratin care ingredients are amino acids, such as serine, cysteine, threonine, glycine, tyrosine, and aspartic acid. glutamic acid, histidine, carnitine; glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate as alpha hydroxyl acids; And it may be at least one selected from the group consisting of salicylate as beta hydroxyl acid, and gluconolactate as poly hydroxyl acid, but is not limited thereto.

In addition, the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include one or more low molecular weight (1 kDa or less) functional ingredients as functional ingredients. In the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention, 0.01 to 99% (w / w), specifically 30 to 80% (w / w), more specifically 45 to 65% (w / w) to be included in the preparation can In the case of low molecular weight, there is no restriction on the content, and if the content is increased, the re-solubility is improved.

The pH of the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is not limited to the range, but 4.0 to 9.0 are possible, and 6.0 to 8.0 are preferable. At a pH higher or lower than the corresponding range, the stability of the active ingredient may be inhibited or skin irritation may occur.

In the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention, the composition comprising a functional ingredient and a basic amino acid may further include a hydrophilic amino acid and/or an acidic amino acid. When the neutral or acidic amino acid is additionally included, when the freeze-dried component is mixed in the cosmetic of the emulsion formulation, it may serve as a buffer so that the pH does not excessively increase in the cosmetic mixed by the basic amino acid.

The hydrophilic amino acid is meant to include a derivative of an amino acid, and for example, may be one or more selected from the group consisting of serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine, but is not limited thereto.

The acidic amino acid is an amino acid containing COOH in a side branch, and includes a derivative of an amino acid, and may be, for example, at least one selected from the group consisting of aspartic acid and glutamic acid, but is not limited thereto.

In addition, the present invention provides an emulsion formulation having a hardness of 5 dyne/cm ² or more; And It provides a cosmetic composition comprising a second composition in a solid phase comprising a freeze-dried component of the composition comprising a water-dispersible polymer and a basic amino acid.

In addition, the present invention provides a cosmetic comprising the first composition and the second composition.

The first composition is a solid phase, and includes a freeze-dried component of the composition including functional ingredients and amino acids, and the second composition is for dissolving the first composition in the solid phase, and has an emulsified formulation.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the first composition and the second composition may be included in a form separated from each other.

As the second composition for dissolving the above-mentioned first composition, it is an emulsion formulation, and there is no limitation on the type. Preferably, the second composition of the present invention is an emulsion formulation with high hardness and low fluidity, and may be a cream, gel, or lotion formulation. The lyophilized component of the first composition has a problem in that re-solubility is significantly lowered in a formulation that does not have sufficient moisture, and the cosmetic of the present invention is lyophilized with a basic amino acid to solve the problem of low re-solubility.

The fluidity of the present emulsion formulation can be defined as hardness, preferably 5 dyne/cm ² or more, or 5 to 100 dyne/cm ² , or 10 to 50 dyne/cm ² , or 25 to 35 dyne/cm ² It may be one having hardness.

The second composition of the emulsion formulation may also be one that does not show a decrease in hardness of 30% or more, or a decrease in hardness of 15% or less when mixed with the first composition. In this case, when the two formulations are mixed and used, differentiated efficacy and feeling of use can be provided to consumers without affecting the temporal stability of the second composition of the emulsion formulation.

The pH of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is not limited to the range, but 4.0 to 9.0 are possible, and 6.0 to 8.0 are preferable. At a pH higher or lower than the corresponding range, the stability of the active ingredient may be inhibited or skin irritation may occur.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in a solid phase with improved solubility of a functional ingredient in a solid phase, which has excellent solubility in a liquid cosmetic composition, can prevent changes in hardness and pH of the liquid composition due to dissolution, and has excellent stability. provides

1 is a diagram illustrating a mechanism in which the solid composition of the present invention is dissolved in a liquid formulation.
2 is a diagram showing the change of the formulation over time when the solid composition according to an embodiment of the present invention is mixed with the liquid formulation.

The following examples are provided to aid the understanding of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

Experimental Example 1. Preparation of solid formulation and cream formulation

According to the composition of Table 1, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (0.5 - 10 kDa, SK Bioland, Korea Korea) or hyaluronic acid (10 kDa or more, SK Bioland, Korea) was prepared in a cosmetic composition containing a solid phase.

[Table 1]

Specifically, an aqueous solution was prepared by dissolving the composition of Table 1 in an excess of purified water, and the prepared aqueous solution was cooled rapidly at -20°C to -180°C to solidify into a solid phase, followed by freeze-drying. A solid composition in powder form of the present invention was prepared by pulverizing the freeze-dried solid phase for convenient use. When the pressure of a solid sample is lowered at a temperature below the triple point, water sublimes without going through a liquid phase and changes to a gas phase. At this time, the remaining components in Table 1 maintain a structure dissolved in water to form a porous structure. will achieve At this time, the porous structure can maintain its porosity without being destroyed in the pulverization process, which is a macroscopic change in properties, as a microstructure.

A cosmetic composition for dissolving the cosmetic composition in the solid phase was prepared according to the composition in Table 2.

[Table 2]

As a formulation used by dissolving the solid phase, a creamy cosmetic with low fluidity was prepared according to the composition of Table 2. The pH of the formulation was 7.15, and the hardness was confirmed to be 30 dyne/cm ² using a durometer immediately after preparation. The hardness was measured using the most widely used indentation hardness test method. The indentation hardness test is a test method that numerically indicates the degree of indentation after pressing the presser on the cosmetic under a constant test load for a certain period of time.

Test Example 1. Confirmation of change in physical properties of the composition

When the solid cosmetic prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 is mixed with the cream formulation of 30 dyne/cm ² prepared in Experimental Example 1, re-solubility of the solid formulation, re-dissolution time and pH of the composition and change in hardness. Each of the solid components of Examples 1, 2 and Comparative Example 1 was removed with a spatula or hand, and it was confirmed that they were re-dissolved by hand mixing in the cream formulation (FIG. 2).

[Table 3]

(◎: Very good, no aggregation between powders, and the surface of the formulation is very uniform after re-dissolving, ○: Good, almost no aggregation between powders, and the surface is uniform after re-dissolving. △: Slightly poor, surface after re-dissolving This is slightly non-uniform and agglomeration occurs, X: very poor, re-dissolving is not well performed, agglomeration)

As shown in Table 3, in the case of the solid compositions of Examples 1 and 2 containing basic amino acids as compositions containing ultra-low molecular weight hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, they rapidly It can be seen that the solid phase component is redissolved in the cream with low fluidity. However, the solid component of Comparative Example 1 made of only a functional polymer without basic amino acids is invisible to the naked eye and the re-dissolution time measured by measuring the time to a uniformly mixed state in which a foreign feeling is not felt to the touch is the same as in Examples 1 and 2 It was confirmed that it took more than twice as much as the case. In the case of a composition containing hyaluronic acid having a high molecular weight, it was confirmed that the solid component was severely agglomerated and re-dissolution was not performed as in Comparative Example 2. As in Examples 3 and 4, when the basic amino acid is used, it can be confirmed that the re-solubility presented in the present invention is improved, but hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is more preferred for the excellent quality of cosmetics.

Experimental Example 2. Preparation of a solid-phase composition containing various functional polymer components

In order to confirm the degree of improvement in the re-dissolution line of the composition of the present invention for various polymer functional components other than the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid of Examples 1 and 2, a solid cosmetic composition was prepared according to the composition of Table 4.

[Table 4]

Test Example 2. Confirmation of re-solubility of solid composition containing various functional polymer components

In order to confirm the resolubility of the solid compositions of Examples 5 to 7 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5 prepared in Experimental Example 2, 30 dyne/cm 2 of 30 dyne/cm ² of Table 2 prepared in Experimental Example 1 When mixed with the cream formulation , the re-solubility of the solid formulation, the re-dissolution rate improvement rate (%), and changes in pH and hardness of the composition were confirmed.

Specifically, the rate of improvement of the re-dissolution rate is the same polymer with respect to the re-dissolution rate (1/re-dissolution time) of the case not containing the basic amino acid (Comparative Examples 3 or 5) in the experimental group containing the basic amino acid (Examples 5 to 7) ), the degree of improvement in the re-dissolution rate was confirmed. In addition, the hardness change rate was confirmed through the hardness of the cream formulation immediately after mixing with the solid composition, compared to the initial hardness (30 dyne/cm ² ) of the cream formulation before mixing with the solid composition.

[Table 5]

(◎: Very good, no aggregation between powders, and the surface of the formulation is very uniform after re-dissolving, ○: Good, almost no aggregation between powders, and the surface is uniform after re-dissolving. △: Slightly poor, surface after re-dissolving This is slightly non-uniform and agglomeration occurs, X: very poor, re-dissolving is not well performed, agglomeration)

[Table 6]

Test Example 3. Confirmation of re-solubility in various formulations

In order to confirm whether the re-solubility of the solid composition of the present invention is improved in various formulations, the solid composition of Example 1 was used in addition to the cream formulation (hardness 30 dyne/cm ² ) of Table 2, essence (8100 cps), solubilizing toner (3800 cps) ), it was confirmed whether the resolubility was improved compared to the case of mixing with the solid composition not containing the amino acid of Comparative Example 1. The essence was prepared according to the composition of Table 7, and the toner was evaluated according to the composition of Table 8. The viscosity of the essence was measured using a Brookfield viscometer (Brookfield LV, Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc., MA, USA) and was measured at 30 rpm for 60 seconds. In order to reduce the effect of air bubbles, it was measured by defoaming during manufacturing.

[Table 7]

[Table 8]

[Table 9]

(◎: Very good, no aggregation between powders, and the surface of the formulation is very uniform after re-dissolving, ○: Good, almost no aggregation between powders, and the surface is uniform after re-dissolving. △: Slightly poor, surface after re-dissolving This is slightly non-uniform and agglomeration occurs, X: very poor, re-dissolving is not well performed, agglomeration)

As shown in Table 9, in the case of a solid composition in which a functional polymer and a basic amino acid were lyophilized together, the re-dissolution rate was improved compared to that of Comparative Example 1 in each formulation in both cream, essence and toner formulations, In particular, it was confirmed that the degree of improvement of the re-dissolution rate in the cream formulation was high compared to the solubilized toner, which did not have a significant problem of re-dissolution of the freeze-dried polymer due to the low viscosity/hardness of the formulation itself.

Test Example 4. Confirmation of re-dissolution improvement effect according to the type of amino acid

In addition to the basic amino acid of the present invention, in order to check whether the re-dissolution improvement effect of the freeze-dried polymer can be obtained even with a neutral or acidic amino acid, according to the composition of Table 10, glutamic acid as an acidic amino acid, serine as a neutral amino acid, and arginine as a basic amino acid After freeze-drying with a functional polymer, re-solubility and hardness changes were confirmed in the cream formulation of Table 2.

[Table 10]

[Table 11]

(◎: Very good, no aggregation between powders, and the surface of the formulation is very uniform after re-dissolving, ○: Good, almost no aggregation between powders, and the surface is uniform after re-dissolving. △: Slightly poor, surface after re-dissolving This is slightly non-uniform and agglomeration occurs, X: very poor, re-dissolving is not well performed, agglomeration)

As shown in Table 10, it was confirmed that neutral amino acids did not exhibit any re-solubility improvement effect, and had an effect of improving re-solubility and time in acidic amino acids and basic amino acids. However, it is confirmed that the re-solubility of the polymer (carbomer) component is increased as the hardness of the formulation is lowered due to the acidic amino acid appearing in the acidic amino acid. It can be seen that the degree of improvement is very low compared to the effect of increasing the solubility.

Claims (11)

delete delete delete delete delete a first composition in a solid phase comprising a lyophilized component of the composition comprising a functional ingredient and a basic amino acid; and
5 dyne/cm ² Comprising a cosmetic composition comprising a second composition of an emulsion formulation having a hardness of at least 2,
The functional ingredient is at least one of a water-dispersible polymer and a keratin care ingredient,
The water-dispersible polymer is collagen, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, beta glucan, xanthan gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, biosaccharide, cellulose, cellulose gum, arabic gum, gelatin, agar, carrageenan , algin, chitosan, starch, galactomannan, glucomannan, guar gum, locust bean gum, at least one selected from the group consisting of alginate and gellan,
The keratin care ingredients include serine, cysteine, threonine, glycine, tyrosine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, histidine, carnitine; glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate as alpha hydroxyl acids; and at least one selected from the group consisting of salicylate as beta hydroxyl acid and gluconolactate as polyhydroxy acid. delete delete 7. The method of claim 6,
The basic amino acid is from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, asparagine, citrulline, ornithine, tromethamine, and cysteamine. At least one selected, cosmetic composition. 7. The method of claim 6,
The composition of the first composition further comprises a hydrophilic amino acid and / or an acidic amino acid, cosmetic composition. a first composition in a solid phase comprising a lyophilized component of the composition comprising a functional ingredient and a basic amino acid; and
5 dyne/cm ² Containing a second composition of an emulsion formulation having a hardness of at least 2,
The functional ingredient is at least one of a water-dispersible polymer and a keratin care ingredient,
The water-dispersible polymer is collagen, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, beta glucan, xanthan gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, biosaccharide, cellulose, cellulose gum, arabic gum, gelatin, agar, carrageenan , algin, chitosan, starch, galactomannan, glucomannan, guar gum, locust bean gum, at least one selected from the group consisting of alginate and gellan,
The keratin care ingredients include serine, cysteine, threonine, glycine, tyrosine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, histidine, carnitine; glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate as alpha hydroxyl acids; and at least one selected from the group consisting of salicylate as beta hydroxyl acid and gluconolactate as polyhydroxy acid.

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