KR102259668B1 - Proteoglycan-Containing cream cosmetic composition and its manufacturing method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a cream cosmetic composition comprising nanoliposomes made of a mixture of proteoglycans and glycolic acid. The cream cosmetic composition according to the present invention breaks through the epidermal barrier and effectively penetrates into the dermis without a needle by being elastic unlike normal nanoliposome cosmetic materials, thereby providing a skin lifting effect by pulling the skin in the dermis and being usefully used for vitamin essence, day/night cream, eye cream, pore-tightening cream, etc.

Description

Proteoglycan-Containing cream cosmetic composition and manufacturing method thereof

The present invention relates to the preparation of a functional cosmetic composition, and more particularly, to a creamy cosmetic composition containing nanoliposomes of proteoglycan and glycolic acid, and a method for preparing the same.

Skin aging is a complex biological phenomenon consisting of intrinsic aging, which is a change that occurs over time, and exogenous aging caused mainly by exposure to the environment, mainly UV rays. In areas exposed to the sun, these two processes overlap. The endogenous skin aging process is similar to that seen in most internal organs and is thought to be accompanied by a decrease in proliferative capacity leading to cellular aging and changes in the biosynthetic activity of skin-derived cells. Exogenous senescence entails changes in cell biosynthetic activity, but leads to a total disorganization of the dermal matrix.

The skin is divided into the epidermis and the dermis beneath it, the epidermis, what we commonly think of as our skin, is composed of several layers of cells, and the dermis is composed of connective tissue, hair follicles, blood vessels and sweat glands.

Regarding cosmetics using proteoglycan, Korean Patent No. 10-2038470 discloses a cosmetic composition for protecting fine dust comprising a mixture of Centella asiatica extract and an aqueous solution of proteoglycan, and Korean Patent No. 10-2173330 discloses a water-soluble composition containing hyaluronic acid and proteoglycan. A method for manufacturing a high-functional freeze-dried cosmetic having a coating layer with improved anti-wrinkle and moisturizing functions containing a polymer is disclosed.

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition capable of giving a skin lifting effect by pulling the skin from the dermis of the skin and a method for preparing the same.

According to one embodiment according to the present invention,

Preparing a nanoliposome by microfluidizing a mixture of proteoglycan and glycolic acid in a microfluidizer (a);

(b) preparing an emulsion containing a thickener, an emulsifier, a dispersion medium, and hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof; And

There is provided a method for preparing a proteoglycan-containing cream cosmetic composition comprising the step (c) of mixing the nanoliposome with the emulsion, removing the supernatant by centrifugation, and obtaining a precipitate.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the pH of the mixture of proteoglycan and glycolic acid is 5.5 to 5.7.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the dispersion medium is purified water, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetylethylhexanoate, stearic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1,2-hexanediol, and two of them. It is selected from the group consisting of the above mixtures.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the thickener may be xanthan gum, polyacrylic acid, or a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyacrylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of Carbomer 940, Carbomer 941, Carbomer 934, and mixtures of two or more thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the temperature at the time of mixing the nanoliposome and the emulsion is preferably 65 to 70 ℃.

In one embodiment of the present invention, when the nanoliposome and the emulsion are mixed, 0.1 to 5 parts by weight of the nanoliposome and 95 to 99.9 parts by weight of the emulsion may be mixed.

In one embodiment of the present invention, it may further comprise the step of adding a fermented plant extract to the precipitate obtained in step (c).

In one embodiment of the present invention, the plant fermented extract is Chopi tree fruit extract, wild yam root extract, cabbage extract, ginger extract, green tea extract, eucalyptus extract, yarrow extract, yarrow root extract, peony root extract, pine needle extract , it may be selected from the group consisting of a rice extract, a fresh herb extract, an orchid extract, and a mixture of two or more thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, it may further comprise the step of adding a fermented plant extract to the precipitate obtained in step (c).

In one embodiment of the present invention, the emulsion preparation step (b) is

xanthan gum, carbomo, or mixtures thereof as a thickener; triethanolamine as an emulsifier; and mixing purified water as a dispersion medium under stirring (b-i);

After heating the mixture obtained in step (bi) under stirring to raise the temperature to 80-85° C., purified water, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, stearic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride was added to the heated mixture. preparing a first emulsion by operating an emulsifier while adding a dispersion medium selected from the group consisting of ceride and a mixture of two or more thereof (b-ii);

After cooling the first emulsion to 30 to 40 ℃ hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof is added thereto under stirring, and aging to prepare a second emulsion (b-iii); may include.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, in the second emulsion preparation step (b-iii), squalane, dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, fragrance, color, or a mixture of two or more thereof may be further added. .

The proteoglycan-containing cream cosmetic composition according to the present invention is elastic unlike general nanoliposome cosmetics, so it penetrates the epidermal layer barrier and effectively penetrates into the dermis without a needle, and provides a skin lifting effect by pulling the skin from the dermis of the skin. For example, it is very useful as a vitamin essence, day/night cream, eye cream, and pore improvement cream.

A method for preparing a proteoglycan-containing cream cosmetic composition according to the present invention,

Preparing a nanoliposome by microfluidizing a mixture of proteoglycan and glycolic acid in a microfluidizer (a);

(b) preparing an emulsion containing a thickener, an emulsifier, a dispersion medium, and hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof; And

Mixing the nanoliposome with the emulsion and centrifuging to remove the supernatant and obtaining a precipitate (c); includes.

The present inventors have discovered a surprising fact that the nanoliposome prepared in step (a) has a function of penetrating into the dermis of the skin and imparting a skin-lifting effect. While not wishing to be bound by a particular theory, this function is such that a peptide bond occurs between a terminal amine group of at least some proteoglycan and a carboxyl group of at least some of the glycolic acid by mixing of the proteoglycan with glycolic acid, and the proteoglycan and glycolic acid bond, and this peptide bond It is presumed that this is because the product is contained in nanoliposomes prepared by microfluidization. The pH of the mixture of proteoglycan and glycolic acid is preferably 5.5 to 5.7.

Proteoglycan is a generic term for a group of molecules in which glycosaminoglycan side chains are covalently bound to proteins. Chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, heparin, dermatan sulfate, and keratan sulfate of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) are representative examples thereof, and these exist as proteoglycans in the living body. The nature and size of the core protein, which is the protein part of proteoglycan, varies, and the number of binding GAG chains varies from 1 to several dozen. Glycosaminoglycan side chains are generally bound to the serine residue of the core protein through a tetrasaccharide relay structure starting from xylose, but keratan sulfate is bound in a completely different way. The length of the sugar chain and the ratio of sugar vary depending on various factors such as cell type and aging. As a large proteoglycan, cartilaginous proteoglycan (large chondroitin sulfate proteoglycan, aggrecan) is well known, has dozens of chondroitin sulfate side chains and has a molecular weight of several million. At the amino terminal end of the core protein, it binds with hyaluronic acid or link protein to form a large molecular aggregate. The homologous PGM (one of the polymorphisms by selective splicing corresponds to versican) has fewer chondroitin sulfate side chains but a larger core protein compared to cartilaginous proteoglycans. In addition, there are small proteoglycans (decorin, non-glycan, etc.) that have only a few glycosaminoglycan side chains as small as about 40 kDa as the core protein. In addition, proteoglycans that exist locally on the cell surface or within cells are also known. A transmembrane type proteoglycan called syndecan binds to other extracellular matrix components in the heparan sulfate side chain and is thought to be a type of cell surface receptor. It also binds to cell growth factors such as bFGF and is important for its metabolism. As such, proteoglycans are responsible for various cell physiological functions as well as structural substances other than cells. Preferred proteoglycans are those derived from salmon.

Glycolic acid is the smallest α-hydroxy acid (AHA). It is a colorless, odorless, hygroscopic crystalline solid that dissolves well in water, is most commonly used for skin regeneration that softens keratinocytes, and neutralizes alkaline substances. It plays a role in regulating the pH of cosmetics, and it is used in various skin care products as it helps to fundamentally solve dry skin by increasing water absorption and showing the ability to retain moisture.

In step (b) of the present invention, an emulsion containing a thickener, an emulsifier, a dispersion medium, and hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof is prepared.

The thickener may be xanthan gum, polyacrylic acid, or a mixture thereof.

A preferred example of the emulsifier is triethanolamine.

Polyacrylic acid (PAA; trade name Carbomer) is a synthetic high molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid, an anionic polymer. Polyacrylic acid has the ability to absorb and retain water and expand to several times its original volume. Its role in cosmetics is to suspend solids in liquids, prevent emulsions from separating and control the consistency of cosmetic flow. Polyacrylic acid may be used in the form of an alkali metal or ammonium salt.

Preferably, the polyacrylic acid is selected from the group consisting of Carbomer 940, Carbomer 941, Carbomer 934, and mixtures of two or more thereof. The advantage of Carbomer is that it can increase transparently in a wide pH range, so there is little irritation to the skin, and the viscosity can be freely adjusted over a wide viscosity range.

Xanthan gum is a thickening agent that has the effect of preventing the components from separating. The viscosity of the xanthan gum solution decreases as the shear rate increases, and when the shear force is removed, the viscosity is restored again.

The dispersion medium is selected from the group consisting of purified water, triethanolamine, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetylethylhexanoate, stearic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1,2-hexanediol, and mixtures of two or more thereof. do.

Butylene glycol has an antibacterial action, improves the action of a preservative, and provides a moisturizing effect, and 1,2-hexanediol provides an antiseptic effect to the cosmetic composition.

Glycerin is highly viscous, has a solubility of 71 g/100 g at 25° C., and functions as a solvent, wetting agent and vehicle.

Cetylethylhexanoate (CEH) has good compatibility with oil-soluble substances and has the effect of lowering the oily texture to a light texture.

Stearic acid has amphipathic properties of a polar moiety that can attach to metal cations and a non-polar chain that is soluble in organic solvents, so it functions as a surfactant and an emollient.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is a mixed ester composed of caprylic acid and capric acid attached to the glycerin skeleton. It helps to reduce skin dryness by creating a barrier on the skin surface to reduce moisture loss. .

In the step (c), the mixing of the nanoliposome and the emulsion is preferably performed at a temperature of 65 to 70 ℃.

The mixing ratio of the nanoliposome and the emulsion is preferably 0.1 to 5 parts by weight of the nanoliposome and 95 to 99.9 parts by weight of the emulsion.

The mixing and centrifugation of the nanoliposome and the emulsion in step (c) can be performed one or more times, and as the number increases, the elastic properties of the resulting precipitate increase.

A fermented plant extract may be added to the precipitate obtained by centrifugation in step (c). These plant fermentation extracts act to enhance the dermal penetration of the nanoliposomes by interacting with the existing microorganisms with the nanoliposomes. Plant fermented extracts include Chopi tree fruit extract, wild yam root extract, cabbage extract, ginger extract, green tea extract, eucalyptus extract, yarrow extract, S. It may be selected from the group consisting of mixtures of two or more of them.

In one embodiment of the present invention, it may further comprise the step of adding a fermented plant extract to the precipitate obtained in step (c).

In one embodiment of the present invention, the emulsion preparation step (b) is

xanthan gum, carbomo, or mixtures thereof as a thickener; triethanolamine as an emulsifier; and mixing purified water as a dispersion medium under stirring (b-i);

After heating the mixture obtained in step (bi) under stirring to raise the temperature to 80-85° C., purified water, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, stearic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride was added to the heated mixture. preparing a first emulsion by operating an emulsifier while adding a dispersion medium selected from the group consisting of ceride and a mixture of two or more thereof (b-ii);

After cooling the first emulsion to 30 to 40 ℃ hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof is added thereto under stirring, and aging to prepare a second emulsion (b-iii); may include.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, in the second emulsion preparation step (a-iii), squalane, dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, fragrance, color, or a mixture of two or more thereof may be further added. .

Dimethicone acts as an antifoam, skin protectant and skin conditioner, and forms a moisture barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

Squalane is a hydrocarbon that softens and moisturizes the skin.

Hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt has the ability to attract and store water 200 times the size of its own body. However, there is a limit to the absorption of hyaluronic acid into the dermis layer of the skin due to the metabolic process of the human body.

* Examples 1 to 3 *

A mixture was obtained by mixing proteoglycan and glycolic acid of pH 2 (50 g/l, H ₂ O, 20° C.), and the obtained mixture was microfluidized in a microfluidizer to obtain a pH as shown in Table 1. Nanoliposomes with

Separately, put xanthan gum and carbomer 940 in a heating vessel, add purified water while heating at 80 to 90° C. under stirring, and dissolve it. When a transparent solution is obtained, triethanolamine is added under stirring, and the resulting mixture is heated under stirring. After raising the temperature to 80-85°C, the emulsifier was operated while adding a dispersion medium consisting of purified water, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetylethylhexanoate, stearic acid, and caprylic/capric triglyceride to the heated mixture. A first emulsion was prepared. After the first emulsion was cooled to 30 to 40° C., sodium hyaluronate, squalane, dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, fragrance, color, and purified water were added thereto, and then aged to prepare a second emulsion.

2 parts by weight of the prepared nanoliposome and 98 parts by weight of the second emulsion were mixed, and the process of removing the supernatant by centrifugation was repeated 3 times to recover the precipitate. A creamy cosmetic composition was prepared by adding Chopi tree fruit extract, wild yam root extract, cabbage extract, ginger extract, and green tea extract to the precipitate recovered at 35° C. under stirring.

* Comparative Example 1 *

A cream cosmetic composition was prepared by repeating the same procedure as in Example except that proteoglycan was not used in the preparation of nanoliposomes.

* Comparative Example 2 *

A cream cosmetic composition was prepared by repeating the same procedure as in Example except that glycolic acid was not used in the preparation of nanoliposomes. The prepared cosmetic composition was evaluated by the following method. The results are presented in Table 1.

Skin penetration feeling after application: 5 professional evaluators applied 1 g of cream cosmetic to the face, and evaluated the feeling of penetration into the skin immediately after application in 5 grades.

5: There is quite a tingling feeling. 4: There is a stinging feeling. 3: There is not much stinging feeling. 2: There is almost no stinging feeling. 1: There is no stinging feeling at all. Results were expressed as the sum of the scores of 5 participants.

Improvement of skin elasticity after application: 5 professional evaluators applied 1 g of cream cosmetic to the face, and 5 hours after application, sensory evaluation of skin elasticity was evaluated in the following five steps. Results were expressed as the sum of the scores of 5 participants. Pulling shows the sensation you can feel when your skin is firm.

5: There is quite a bit of elasticity. 4: There is elasticity. 3: There is not much elasticity. 2: There is almost no elasticity. 1: There is no elasticity at all.

Wrinkle improvement after 5 hours of application: Five professional evaluators applied the cream cosmetic to the fine lines around the eyes, and compared with before application, the following five steps were visually evaluated.

5: Wrinkles are clearly not conspicuous. 4: Wrinkles are not conspicuous. 3: Wrinkles are not very conspicuous. 2: Wrinkles are slightly conspicuous. 1: Wrinkles are quite conspicuous.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Nanoliposome pH 5.5 5.6 5.7 2 - feeling of penetration into the skin 25 25 25 10 12 improve skin elasticity 25 24 25 13 11 wrinkle improvement 25 25 24 11 15

Claims (11)

Preparing nanoliposomes by microfluidizing a mixture of proteoglycan and glycolic acid in a microfluidizer (a);
(b) preparing an emulsion containing a thickener, an emulsifier, a dispersion medium, and hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof; and
A step (c) of mixing the nanoliposome with the emulsion and centrifuging to remove the supernatant and obtaining a precipitate;
Here, in the step (b) of preparing the emulsion, xanthan gum, carbomo, or a mixture thereof as a thickener; triethanolamine as an emulsifier; and mixing purified water as a dispersion medium under stirring (bi);
After heating the mixture obtained in step (bi) under stirring to raise the temperature to 80-85° C., purified water, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, stearic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride was added to the heated mixture preparing a first emulsion by operating an emulsifier while adding a dispersion medium selected from the group consisting of ceride and a mixture of two or more thereof (b-ii); and
After cooling the first emulsion to 30 to 40 ℃, hyaluronic acid or a sodium salt thereof is added thereto under stirring, and aged to prepare a second emulsion (b-iii); Proteoglycan comprising a; - Method for producing a cosmetic composition containing cream.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the mixture of proteoglycan and glycolic acid is 5.5 to 5.7.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the thickener is xanthan gum, polyacrylic acid, or a mixture thereof.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the dispersion medium is purified water, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetylethylhexanoate, stearic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1,2-hexanediol, and a mixture of two or more thereof. A method for producing a proteoglycan-containing cream cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the nanoliposome and the emulsion are mixed at a temperature of 65 to 70°C.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the mixing ratio of the nanoliposome and the emulsion is 0.1 to 5 parts by weight of the nanoliposome and 95 to 99.9 parts by weight of the emulsion.
The method of claim 1, further comprising adding a plant ferment extract to the precipitate obtained in step (c).
The method according to claim 7, wherein the plant fermented extract is Chopi tree fruit extract, wild yam root extract, cabbage extract, ginger extract, green tea extract, eucalyptus extract, yarrow extract, rhododendron root extract, peony root extract, pine needle extract, rice extract , A method for producing a proteoglycan-containing cream cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of extracts of chrysanthemums, chrysanthemum extracts, and mixtures of two or more thereof.
delete According to claim 1, wherein in the second emulsion preparation step (b-iii), squalane, dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, fragrance, color, or a mixture of two or more thereof is further added proteoglycan- Method for producing a cosmetic composition containing cream.
A proteoglycan-containing cream cosmetic composition prepared by the method of any one of claims 1 to 8 and 10.