KR102232005B1 - Composite yarn having a fine melange effect and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to: a composite false-twisted yarn which controls physical properties such as orientation and crystallinity of fibers by controlling the spinning speed during melt spinning, and also by optimizing elongation, fineness, and number of filaments during compounding, makes the expression of natural and irregular melange tone of 2 to 3 colors or more excellent, and thus has excellent crimp tendency; and a manufacturing method thereof.

Description

Composite yarn having a fine melange effect and manufacturing method thereof {Composite yarn having a fine melange effect and manufacturing method thereof}

The present invention relates to a composite false twisted yarn excellent in expression and crimp properties of two to three colors or more, by air entanglement between a high-oriented multifilament yarn and a low-oriented multifilament yarn, and a manufacturing method thereof.

Among the rapidly changing apparel consumers' psychology, fashion and functionality are considered the most important. In particular, in the case of clothing used in professional leisure fields such as mountaineering clothing, golf wear, ski clothing, etc., there is a demand for fashion that satisfies various designs along with functions such as warmth, light weight, sweat perspiration, quick-drying, heat generation, and elasticity. In order to respond to such consumer demands, the development of materials capable of expressing various fashion characteristics is recently being emphasized. In particular, melange material is a representative fashion material that is continuously being developed.

The melange effect is an effect expressed by mixing fibers with different dyeing properties into yarn or weaving different materials, and refers to an effect that gives a feeling of mixing similar colors rather than a single color.

The conventional melange material is mainly manufactured by spinning short fibers of different colors by yarn dyeing, or by combining different kinds of fibers by yarn processing, or by combining different materials by intersecting them in the weaving step, etc. Recently, a number of technologies have been developed to express a dichroic effect in the filament itself through complex spinning of heterogeneous polymers.

Looking at the prior art for such a melange material, in Korean Patent Registration No. 10-0860266 (2008. 09. 25.), the ratio of 30 to 70% by weight of polyester original microfiber and 70 to 30% by weight of nylon or polyester general microfiber. An ultra-fine fiber fabric with excellent melange-like appearance is disclosed by weaving or knitting by using a composite twisted or interlaced yarn as warp, weft or warp and weft yarn, and processed in a low price. Korean Patent Registration No. 10-0635857 (2006. 10. 18.) is a two-component composite false twisted yarn composed of two or more fiber-forming components with different dyeing properties, or two or more composite false-twisted yarns composed of a fiber-forming component and an elution component, and the dyeing properties of the fiber-forming components are different. A two-component composite false-twisted yarn (sheath) has a form in which a thermoplastic multifilament (thread) is wrapped around a double-shrink blended yarn (ATY) having an excellent melange effect.

However, the melange materials as described above have a problem in that it is difficult to express a variety of colors by using raw yarn, and ATY spots appear as defects on the fabric. In addition, the yarn processing conditions were very difficult due to the existence of differences in thermal properties and physical properties of the fibers for manufacturing the melange material. In particular, the main materials for expressing melangetone are deformed cross-section yarns, cation dyeable PET, or raw yarn, and these yarns are yarns with a high manufacturing cost. Therefore, there is a disadvantage in that production cost is increased by using two or more kinds of these high-cost yarns as basic materials, and then weaving or knitting them to produce a melange material after complexing them.

The present invention differentiates the spinning speed, elongation and fineness, and the number of filaments when melt spinning the same type of polymer to control physical properties such as fiber orientation and crystallinity, thereby enabling excellent natural melangetone expression of 2 to 3 colors or more. It is a technical problem to provide a composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent veneering properties and a method for manufacturing the same.

The manufacturing method of the composite false-twist yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention, the method for producing the composite false-twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention, melts the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 A first step of spinning (S100); A second step (S200) of melt-spinning the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20; A third step (S300) of false-rolling and hot stretching the highly-oriented multifilament yarn (10); A fourth step (S400) of false-rolling and hot stretching the low-alignment multifilament yarn (20); The third step (S300) of the high-oriented multi-filament yarn (10) and the fourth step (S400) of the false-twist and hot-drawn low-oriented multi-filament yarn (20) by air entanglement Step 5 (S500); And a sixth step (S600) of heat-treating the high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 and the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 joined in the fifth step (S500); preferably, the high-alignment multi-filament yarn The filament yarn 10 and the low orientation multifilament yarn 20 are preferably polyethylene terephthalate or nylon 6.

In addition, the spinning speed of the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 is 3,600 to 4,200 m/min, and the spinning speed of the low oriented multifilament yarn 20 is preferably 2,200 to 2,800 m/min, and the highly oriented multi-filament yarn 20 The difference in the number of filaments between the filament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is 24 to 84, the difference in elongation is 50 to 150%, and the difference in total fineness is preferably 80 to 350 denier. In particular, the draw ratio of the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 constituting the composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression of the present invention is 2.0 to 2.5. The draw ratio of the low oriented multifilament yarn 20 is preferably 1.1 to 1.4, and the color difference (ΔE) after dyeing between the high oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low oriented multifilament yarn 20 is preferably 1.2 or more. .

The manufacturing method of the composite false-twist yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention uses the same type of polymer to control the orientation and crystallinity of the fibers in the spinning process and yarn processing process during the manufacture of fibers. As melangetone is expressed, it has the effect of expressing a sensibility differentiated from conventional materials by imparting the inherent crimp properties of yarn processing. In particular, by manufacturing the composite false-twisted yarn 100 using fibers of the same type having a difference in orientation and crystallinity, delicate and natural melangetone is expressed due to the difference in dyeing properties, and melangetone and a feeling of touch are expressed without an increase in manufacturing cost. It has the effect of being able to manufacture the fabric.

1 is a process chart for manufacturing a composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent expression of melangetone according to the present invention,
2 is a schematic diagram of a melt spinning apparatus 300 according to the present invention,
3 is a schematic diagram of a combustible device 500 according to the present invention,
4 is a schematic diagram of an air entanglement device 200 according to the present invention,
5 is a photograph of a composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent expression of melangetone prepared according to the present invention,
6 is a photo (a) after dyeing of a fabric manufactured according to an embodiment of the present invention and a photo (b) after dyeing of a fabric manufactured according to a comparative example.

In the present application, terms such as "include", "have" or "have" are intended to designate the existence of features, numbers, steps, components, parts, or combinations thereof described in the specification. It is to be understood that it does not preclude the presence or addition of features, numbers, steps, actions, components, parts, or combinations thereof.

In addition, unless otherwise defined, all terms used herein, including technical or scientific terms, have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention belongs. Terms such as those defined in a commonly used dictionary should be interpreted as having a meaning consistent with the meaning of the context of the related technology, and should not be interpreted as an ideal or excessively formal meaning unless explicitly defined in the present application. Does not.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. In describing the present invention, in order to facilitate an overall understanding, the same reference numerals are used for the same elements in the drawings, and duplicate descriptions for the same elements are omitted.

Hereinafter, a composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent expression of melangetone according to the present invention and a manufacturing method thereof will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. 1 attached to the present invention is a process diagram for manufacturing a composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent expression of melangetone according to the present invention, Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of a melt spinning apparatus 300 according to the present invention, Figure 3 is A schematic diagram of a combustible device 500 according to the present invention, FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of an air entanglement apparatus 200 according to the present invention, and FIG. 5 is a composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent expression of melangetone manufactured according to the present invention. 6 is a photograph (a) after dyeing of a fabric manufactured according to an embodiment of the present invention and a photograph (b) after dyeing of a fabric manufactured according to a comparative example.

The manufacturing method of the composite false-twist yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention is a first step (S100) of melt-spinning a high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 as shown in FIG. 1; And, a low-alignment A second step (S200) of melt spinning the multifilament yarn 20; And, a third step (S300) of false twisting and hot stretching the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10; And the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 A fourth step (S400) of false twisting and hot stretching; And, the high-alignment multifilament yarn (10) false-rolled and hot-drawn in the third step (S300) and the false-rolled and hot-drawn in the fourth step (S400) A fifth step (S500) of plying the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 by air entanglement; And a sixth step (S600) of heat-treating the high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 and the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 that have been laminated as described above (S600).

That is, the composite false-twist yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention uses a melt-spinning device 300 as shown in FIG. 2 to use polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter, PET) or nylon 6 (Nylon 6). ) By melt-spinning any one of the polymers, each of the high-oriented multifilament yarns 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarns 20 are independently manufactured.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the spinning speed during melt spinning of the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 in the first step (S100) is preferably 3,600 to 4,200 m/min, and in the second step (S200) The spinning speed of the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is preferably 2,200 to 2,800 m/min.

At this time, the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 are preferably manufactured to have a circular or deformed cross-sectional shape of the yarn by using a circular or deformed cage alone.

Referring to FIG. 2, in the first step (S100), the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 melts the polymerized chips of PET or nylon 6 at a melting temperature and then spins through a spinneret 1 , It is preferable that the size of the orifice formed in the spinneret 1 is 0.3 to 0.4 mm, and the L/D (length/diameter) is 2.5 to 3.0 so that the optimum spinning draft is applied. As described above, the thread 2 exiting the spinneret 1 is cooled by the cooling wind generated from the cooling air supply device 3. At this time, the speed of the cooling air is 0.4 to 0.6 m/sec, and the temperature is preferably 14 to 18°C.

8 to 12% by weight of an oil based on the weight of the yarn is applied to the thread 2 cooled as described above through the upper oiling roller 4 and the lower oiling roller 5.

In the present invention, the adhesion amount of the oil agent in the upper oiling roller 4 and the lower oiling roller 5 is preferably 8 to 12% by weight, and this is because the filament yarn may be broken due to an increase in tension in the subsequent air entanglement process. This is because the increase in tension due to friction when passing through the guide should be minimized by increasing the amount of oil attached.

Thereafter, after passing through the first godet roller 6, it is stretched with the second godet roller 7 at a draw ratio of 1.20 to 1.40. After the multifilament yarn stretched as described above is given 4 to 6% of relaxation, it is wound by a winder (8).

In addition, the second step (S200) for manufacturing the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 is also the same as the first step (S100), but only the spinning speed is different.

In the present invention, the high orientation multifilament yarn 10 and the low orientation multifilament yarn 20 are preferably manufactured by differently controlling the spinning speed in the melt spinning apparatus 300 as shown in FIG. 2. By making the spinning speed different during melt spinning as described above, the orientation and crystallinity of the fibers can be controlled differently.

In general, as the spinning speed increases during melt spinning of the polymer, the crystal size increases and the crystallinity increases. Also, the degree of orientation of the amorphous portion is lowered, so that the elongation is high and the specific shrinkage rate is lowered. Therefore, when the spinning speed is increased during melt spinning of the fiber, the crystal structure is remarkably developed, thereby reducing the amount of dyeing during dyeing. Accordingly, it is dyed in a relatively pale color. In particular, in the case of nylon 6, fibers manufactured by high-speed spinning have a different morphology compared to fibers manufactured by conventional slow-spinning. In this way, the crystallinity and orientation of the fiber increases with the spinning speed, and when the spinning speed increases, the internal structure of the fiber increases in non-uniformity, and the dyeing property changes along with the decrease in the elongation.

Accordingly, the present invention manufactures a highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 through a high-speed spinning speed of 3,600 to 4,200 mpm through the first step (S100), and a relatively low speed of 2,200 to 2,800 through the second step (S200). By spinning at a spinning speed of mpm, a low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is manufactured. As described above, differences in the crystallinity, orientation, and morphology of the fibers are given by the difference in spinning speed, and the difference in dyeing properties is expressed by complexing and dyeing them. That is, the present invention provides different orientation and crystallinity to the fibers due to the difference in spinning speed as described above, thereby expressing a more natural melange effect after dyeing due to the difference in dyeing properties.

In the present invention, the polymer for manufacturing the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 may be any polymer capable of melt spinning, but PET and nylon 6 are particularly preferred.

Looking in detail at the first step (S100) and the second step (S200), it is particularly preferable that the difference in the spinning speed between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is 800 to 2,000 mpm. Do.

Due to the difference in spinning speed as described above, the internal structures of fibers such as crystallinity and orientation of the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 are different from each other, and the difference in dyeability resulting from this As a result, the melange effect is maximized and expressed after dyeing.

That is, in the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10, the crystal structure is remarkably developed compared to the general stretched filament yarn due to the application of an excessive stress greater than the critical stress required for stretching. Therefore, the high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 spun at a high speed has a feature of having a lower dyeing amount than the existing stretched filament yarns during dyeing, so that it can be dyed in pale color and has a slow dyeing speed. This is because the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 spun at a high speed has a high degree of orientation in the amorphous region and a dense structure, so that it is not easy to penetrate the dye, so that it can be dyed in a pale color.

In addition, in the present invention, in order to maximize the melange effect resulting from the difference in dyeability between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20, the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn The difference in the total fineness of the yarn 20 is preferably 80 to 350 denier.

That is, when the difference in total fineness between the high oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low oriented multifilament yarn 20 is less than 80 denier, the difference in dyeability to be produced is small and the melange effect expressed is reduced. On the contrary, when the difference in fineness between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 exceeds 350 denier, resistance increases during heat treatment in a yarn guide and a heater, and the composite false twisted yarn 100 The thread trimming phenomenon increases as damage occurs due to friction.

In addition, it is preferable that the difference in the number of filaments between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is 24 to 84. If the difference in the number of filaments between the high oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low oriented multifilament yarn 20 is less than 24, the composite entanglement between the filaments is poor during the yarn processing, resulting in lower workability and melangetone expression effects. Is reduced. On the contrary, when the difference in the number of filaments between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 exceeds 84, the number of entanglements and entanglement strength formed by the air pressure during air entanglement are after the fabric. It does not reach the level required by the process, and the crimp characteristics deteriorate.

In addition, when the difference in elongation between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is 50 to 150%, the dichroic effect can be maximized. That is, when the difference in elongation between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is less than 50%, the difference in dyeing property between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 Is not expressed, the effect of expression of melangetone is reduced. In addition, when the difference in elongation exceeds 150%, the crimp characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn 100 are deteriorated, so that the elasticity and voluminous expression of the fabric are deteriorated.

By controlling the spinning speed during melt spinning of the high oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low oriented multifilament yarn 20 constituting the composite false twisted yarn 100 as described above, physical properties such as orientation and crystallinity of the fiber are controlled. , By optimizing the elongation, fineness, and number of filaments of the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20, and air entanglement, the dichroic effect after dyeing is maximized due to the difference in the internal structure of the fiber. The melange effect of the fabric can be maximized.

Specifically, the composite false-twist yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression of the present invention is composed of a high-oriented melti-filament yarn 10 and a low-oriented multi-filament yarn 20 having different dyeing characteristics, The appearance is excellent as the melange effect in which various shades are mixed on the knitted fabric is expressed.

In addition, the composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression of the present invention is melt-spun using a conventional polymer with different manufacturing conditions such as spinning speed, thereby changing the internal structure of the fiber to express the melange effect after dyeing. Therefore, it is possible to manufacture without increasing the manufacturing cost.

The highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 manufactured as described above is a third step (S300) afterwards, and the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 is false-rolled and hot-rolled using the combustible device 500 shown in FIG. You will practice God at the same time.

In addition, the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 also performs false twisting and hot stretching at the same time using the same combustible device 500 shown in FIG. 3 in the fourth step S400.

In the third step (S300), the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 performs false twisting and hot stretching at the same time in the combustible device 500 shown in FIG. 3, wherein the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 It is supplied to the unit 550 at a speed of 350 ~ 750 mpm.

As for the combustible unit 550 used in the present invention, a device consisting of two or more pairs of friction disks may be used. The principle of imparting twist by friction is that the yarn is guided on a plurality of friction discs, and it is falsely twisted by the friction between the disc and the yarn. At this time, the number of twists and extension tension are set by changing the yarn speed ratio (D/Y ratio: the ratio of the disk speed to the yarn speed), and it can be adjusted as the difference between the number of disks, thickness, and diameter.

The highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 entering the combustible unit 550 at the same supply speed as described above has a VR ratio of 2.0 to 2.5, which is a speed factor between the false combustible unit 550 and the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10. It is desirable.

In addition, since the heat treatment temperature for the fibers affects the shrinkage and dyeing properties of the fibers, the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 is heat treated at 180 to 220 °C in the first heater 520 shown in FIG. 3. It is preferable to perform hot stretching at the same time.

When the heat treatment temperature of the first heater 520 is less than 180°C, there is a problem in stabilizing twisting, and when the heat treatment temperature of the first heater 520 exceeds 220°C, changes in physical properties and dyeing properties due to melting of the supplied high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 There is a problem of defects.

The high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 heat-treated as described above passes through the first heater 520 and is hot-drawn due to the difference in speed between the first feed roller 530 and the second feed roller 540, and at this time, the It is preferable to perform hot stretching at a draw ratio of 2.0 to 2.5 due to the difference in speed between the first feed roller 530 and the second feed roller 540.

The high-alignment multipyralment yarn 10, which has been false-twisted and hot-drawn as described above, is wound on the first winding roller 560 while twisting the twist imparted during false-twisting.

In the same manner as the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10, the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 also performs false twisting and hot stretching in the combustible device 500 through a fourth step (S400). At this time, the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is supplied to the combustible device 500 at a speed of 350 to 750 mpm, and the VR ratio is preferably 1.0 to 1.5. In addition, the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is also heated while passing through the first heater 520 and is hot-drawn by a speed difference between the first feed roller 530 and the second feed roller 540. At this time, the draw ratio of the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is preferably 1.1 to 1.4. In this case, the heat treatment temperature in the first heater 520 is preferably 180 to 220° C., which is the same as that of the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10. As described above, the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 that has been false-rolled and hot-drawn in the fourth step (S400) is wound around the first winding roller 560 while twisting the twist imparted during the false-rolling.

As described above, the high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 and the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20, which are false-rolled and hot-drawn in the third step (S300) and the fourth step (S400) It goes through step (S500). The air entanglement process in the fifth step (S500) as described above can be performed using the air entanglement device 200 as shown in FIG. 4.

That is, as shown in FIG. 4, the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 is supplied to the air entanglement unit 30 through the third feed roller 51, and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is supplied to the fourth It is supplied to the air bridge unit 30 through the feed roller 52. As described above, the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 supplied together to the air entanglement unit 30 are air entangled in the air entanglement unit 30, and then bonded together. After passing through the feed roller 53, heat treatment is performed as a sixth step (S600).

At this time, the air pressure in the air entanglement unit 30 is preferably 0.2 to 1.0 bar, and when the air pressure in the air entanglement unit 30 is less than 0.2 bar, the formation of twist may be insufficient. In addition, when it exceeds 1.0 bar, there may be a problem that the dead strength decreases.

The high orientation multifilament yarn 10 and the low orientation multifilament yarn 20 joined by air entanglement as described above, as shown in FIG. 4, after the air entanglement is completed using the second heater 40. The composite false twisted yarn 100 undergoes a sixth step (S600) of performing heat treatment.

At this time, the temperature of the second heater 40 is preferably 185 to 205 °C, and the heat treatment time is preferably 10 to 30 seconds. That is, when the temperature of the second heater 40 is less than 185° C. and the heat treatment time is less than 10 seconds, the thermal stress is lowered, so that the crimp characteristic of the composite false twisted yarn 100 is not smoothly expressed, and the second heater ( When the temperature of 40) exceeds 205° C. and the heat treatment time exceeds 30 seconds, the physical properties of the composite false twisted yarn 100 become uneven, resulting in a problem that the touch is not soft. Accordingly, the difference in bulky properties and the difference in shrinkage can be caused to the maximum at the heat treatment temperature as described above, so that bulky properties and elasticity can be effectively imparted to the fabric.

In the sixth step (S600), the high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 and the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 combined may be supplied as an overfeed during heat treatment.

That is, the overfeed rate in the first overfeed zone formed between the fifth feed roller 53 and the sixth feed roller 54 after the air interlocking unit 30 is preferably 1 to 2%, The overfeed rate in the second overfeed zone formed between the sixth feed roller 54 and the seventh feed roller 55 is preferably 2 to 5%.

If the overfeed rate in the first overfeed zone is less than 1%, the crimp effect may not be well expressed, and if it exceeds 2%, the problem of poor workability may occur.

In addition, when the overfeed rate in the second overfeed zone is less than 2%, there may be a problem that air entanglement does not occur well, and when it exceeds 5%, the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 protrudes to the surface of the yarn, resulting in a melange effect. There may be a problem that the expression of is lowered.

That is, by heat treatment while supplying the laminated high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 to the overfeed in the sixth step (S600), the crimp effect is uniformly expressed and the crimp characteristics are excellent. And, the phenomenon of thread trimming decreases.

After the heat treatment is completed in the sixth step (S600) as described above, by winding in the second winding roller 50, the composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression of the present invention is completed. At this time, the winding speed of the composite false twisted yarn 100 in the second winding roller 50 is preferably 400 to 800 m/min. As described above, when the winding speed of the composite false twisted yarn 100 is less than 400 m/min, the appearance of the dichroic effect is poor, and when it exceeds 800 m/min, the instability of the yarn increases, making it difficult to develop a uniform color and a rough loop. Is formed.

When the composite false twisted yarn 100 is wound on the second winding roller 50 as described above, the production of the composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention as shown in FIG. 5A is completed.

As described above, in the first step (S100) to the sixth step (S600), the orientation and crystallinity of the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 are controlled differently according to the spinning speed and the draw ratio. In addition, if the difference in elongation, fineness, and number of filaments between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is given, the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented The difference in dyeability between the multifilament yarns 20 is maximized. Accordingly, after dyeing, the color difference (ΔE) between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is 1.2 or more, so that anyone can visually recognize the color difference, and thereby a natural and delicate melange tone The effect becomes possible to manifest.

In addition, when weaving or knitting by using the composite false twisted yarn 100 manufactured as described above, an excellent melangetone effect differentiated from the conventional material may be expressed.

On the other hand, the melange effect of the composite false twisted yarn 100 can be evaluated using a color difference (ΔE). That is, the composite false-twist yarn 100 according to the present invention is composed of a high-alignment melti-filament yarn 10 and a low-alignment multi-filament yarn 20 having different dyeing characteristics. ) And the low-orientation multifilament yarn 20 may have different colors or may give a density gradient for brightness.

In the composite false twisted yarn 100 according to the present invention, two or more colors are expressed by the dyeing process as described above, so that it is possible to easily obtain a fabric to which a melange effect is given without a separate process when manufacturing a fabric or knitted fabric. Here, in the composite false-twist yarn 100 according to the present invention, since two or more different colors are expressed in the high-oriented melti-filament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multi-filament yarn 20 through a dyeing process, a color difference (ΔE) from this Will occur.

The composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression of the present invention exhibits an average color difference of 1.2 or more when measuring the CIE color coordinates for two randomly selected points on the fabric. And when the color difference exceeds 1.2 as described above, it can be evaluated as having excellent melange effect.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[Example]

Low orientation of 130 denier/36 filament by using a PET resin with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60~0.65 dl/g and a MI (Melt Index) of 30 g/10min, using a circular detention at a spinning speed of 2,700 m/min. The multifilament yarn 20 was melt-spun. In addition, the same PET resin was prepared by melt spinning each of 330 denier/100 filament high orientation multifilament yarns 10 using a circular detention at a spinning speed of 3,900 m/min. The elongation of the high orientation multifilament yarn 10 is 100%, and the elongation of the low orientation multifilament yarn 20 is 200%.

Thereafter, the high orientation multifilament yarn 10 and the low orientation multifilament yarn 20 were twisted in a combustible device 500 to perform hot stretching. That is, the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 was supplied to the combustible device 500 at a speed of 450 m/min, and the VR ratio was set to 2.5. In addition, the temperature of the first heater 520 is 200 °C, and during hot stretching, the draw ratio is adjusted to 2.0.

In addition, the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 was supplied to the combustible device 500 at a speed of 450 m/min, and the VR ratio was set to 1.5. In addition, the temperature of the first heater 520 was 200 °C, and the draw ratio was adjusted to 1.1.

As described above, the false-rolled and hot-drawn high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 were subsequently supplied to the air entanglement device 200 and intertwined with air at an air pressure of 0.7 bar.

Thereafter, the overfeed rate in the first overfeed zone is 1.4%, the overfeed rate in the second overfeed zone is 3.65%, and the heat treatment in the second heater 40 is performed at 200° C. for 15 seconds. Then, it was wound at a speed of 600 m/min to prepare a composite false twisted yarn (100).

The composite false-twisted yarn 100 was subsequently made into a small amount of sock piece, dyed at 105° C. for 30 minutes with a dispersion dye, and washed to prepare a test piece.

[Comparative Example]

The composite false twisted yarn 100 and the test piece were prepared under the same conditions as in the above embodiment, but the spinning speed of the high-oriented multi-filament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multi-filament yarn 20 was the same as 2,700 m/min to prepare a test piece. I did.

Fig. 6 shows photographs of the test pieces of Examples and Comparative Examples prepared as described above. Referring to FIG. 6, it can be seen that in the case of the test piece of the comparative example, that is, FIG. 6(b), the boundary line between dark and pale colors is unclear and blurry, so that the melange effect is not clearly expressed. On the contrary, in the case of the test piece of Example, that is, FIG. 6A, the boundary line between dark and pale colors is clearly distinguished, and it is observed that a natural irregular melange effect is expressed. At this time, the color difference (ΔE) of the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 after dyeing was measured to be 1.4. Therefore, in the case of the test piece of the Example, it can be confirmed that a natural melange effect that can visually recognize the color difference is expressed.

As described above, according to the manufacturing method of the composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent melangetone expression according to the present invention, the natural melangetone expression is excellent without an increase in manufacturing cost, and the inherent crimp property of yarn processing is imparted to the conventional material. It is possible to manufacture the composite false twisted yarn 100 that can express a differentiated sensibility.

The present invention has been described with reference to the embodiments shown in the drawings, but these are merely exemplary, and those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that various modifications and equivalent other embodiments are possible therefrom. Therefore, the true technical protection scope of the present invention should be determined by the technical spirit of the appended claims.

10: Highly oriented multifilament yarn
20: low orientation multifilament yarn
200: air bridge device
300: melt spinning device
500: combustible device

Claims (4)

A first step (S100) of melt spinning the highly oriented multifilament yarn 10 at a spinning speed of 3,600 to 4,200 m/min;
A second step (S200) of melt-spinning the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 at a spinning speed of 2,200 to 2,800 m/min;
A third step (S300) of false-rolling and hot stretching the highly-oriented multifilament yarn (10);
A fourth step (S400) of false-rolling and hot stretching the low-alignment multifilament yarn (20);
The third step (S300) of the high-oriented multi-filament yarn (10) and the fourth step (S400) of the false-twist and hot-drawn low-oriented multi-filament yarn (20) by air entanglement Step 5 (S500); And
Including, a sixth step (S600) of heat-treating the high-alignment multifilament yarn 10 and the low-alignment multifilament yarn 20 that have been combined in the fifth step (S500);
A composite value having excellent melangetone expression, characterized in that the difference in total fineness between the high-oriented multifilament yarn 10 and the low-oriented multifilament yarn 20 is 80 to 350 denier, and the difference in elongation is 50 to 150%. Method of manufacturing the twisted yarn 100.
The method according to claim 1,
The high-oriented multifilament yarn (10) and the low-oriented multifilament yarn (20) are polyethylene terephthalate or nylon 6, characterized in that the production method of the composite false-twist yarn (100) having excellent melangetone expression, characterized in that.
delete Composite false twisted yarn 100 having excellent expression of melangetone produced according to claim 1 or 2.

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