KR102128257B1 - Manufacturing method of light weight nylon cloth having the transmission of humidity and water repellent function - Google Patents

Manufacturing method of light weight nylon cloth having the transmission of humidity and water repellent function Download PDF

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KR102128257B1
KR102128257B1 KR1020190158884A KR20190158884A KR102128257B1 KR 102128257 B1 KR102128257 B1 KR 102128257B1 KR 1020190158884 A KR1020190158884 A KR 1020190158884A KR 20190158884 A KR20190158884 A KR 20190158884A KR 102128257 B1 KR102128257 B1 KR 102128257B1
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nylon
yarn
fabric
twist
processing
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KR1020190158884A
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Korean (ko)
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박시우
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주식회사 대웅에프엔티 (F.N.T)
박시우
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D02G3/286Doubled, plied, or cabled threads with alternatively "S" and "Z" direction of twist, e.g. Self-twist process
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/263Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
    • D06M15/277Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof containing fluorine
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/34Polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/10Repellency against liquids
    • D06M2200/12Hydrophobic properties

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention obtains a lightweight nylon fabric having moisture permeability and water repellency functions even without separate special processing such as a special film or resin coating on a surface of the nylon fabric, and provides a high-quality outdoor clothing product by using the nylon fabric having the lightweight moisture permeability and water repellency functions. The present invention braids several strands of nylon filament yarn, obtains braided non-twisted nylon yarn, obtains nylon yarn of hard twisted yarn having high twisting per unit length with the braided non-twisted nylon yarn through a twisting process (separately twisting S twisting and Z twisting), heat-treating the nylon yarn of the hard twisted yarn, obtains nylon processing yarn to heat-fix the twisting of the braided nylon filament yarn, weaves the obtained nylon processing yarn as warp and weft, differently making twisting directions of the warp and weft, weaving the same with high density, obtains a high-density nylon raw fabric, and manufactures a lightweight nylon fabric by post-processing the nylon raw fabric.

Description

투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단의 제조방법{Manufacturing method of light weight nylon cloth having the transmission of humidity and water repellent function}Manufacturing method of light weight nylon cloth having moisture and water repellent function {Manufacturing method of light weight nylon cloth having the transmission of humidity and water repellent function}

본 발명은 나일론가공사를 경,위사로 제직하되, 투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서, 특히 원단표면에 투습 및 발수를 위한 별도의 특수필름이나 수지코팅처리를 하지 않더라도, 발수성을 충족하면서, 우수한 통기성을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단을 얻고, 상기 나일론원단을 이용하여 고품질의 아웃도어의류 제품을 얻을 수 있게 한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a lightweight nylon fabric having a moisture permeable and water repellent function by weaving a nylon fabrication process with light and weft yarns, and in particular, even if there is no special film or resin coating treatment for moisture permeation and water repellency on the fabric surface. , While satisfying the water repellency, to obtain a lightweight nylon fabric having excellent breathability, it is possible to obtain a high-quality outdoor clothing products using the nylon fabric.

최근 세계적으로 웰빙(Wellbeing) 문화에 대한 관심이 증대되면서 종래에 의류제품이 갖추어야 할 패션성과 기능성 이외에 인체에 대한 착용 쾌적감을 강조하는 특수 기능성 섬유제품에 대하여 큰 관심이 집중되고 있다.In recent years, as interest in the well-being (Wellbeing) culture has increased worldwide attention has been focused on special functional textile products that emphasize the comfort of wearing to the human body in addition to the fashion and functionality that the clothing products should have in the past.

특히 스포츠, 레저분야는 전 세계적인 경제성장과 더불어 가장 괄목할만한 성장을 이룬 분야중 하나이며, 스포츠·레저웨어의 성장과 함께 기능성소재의 쾌적성, 운동기능성, 패션성 등을 성취하기 위한 다각적인 연구가 진행되고 있다. 이러한 기능성들을 의류에 부여하기 위해서 업계는 여러 가지 기능성 원사를 사용하여 다양한 기능성 제품을 개발하고 있으나, 원사로부터 발현할 수 있는 기능성의 한계로 매우 제한적인 기능의 제품만을 생산하고 있는 실정이다.In particular, the sports and leisure sector is one of the most remarkable growth sectors along with global economic growth, and diversified research to achieve comfort, athletic functionality, and fashionability of functional materials with the growth of sports and leisure wear Is going on. In order to impart these functionalities to clothing, the industry is developing various functional products using various functional yarns, but it is a situation in which only products with very limited functions are produced due to limitations in the functionality that can be expressed from the yarns.

이러한 스포츠·레저용 섬유로부터 주로 요구되는 기능인 온도조절, 경량성, 신축성, 통기성 및 외부 환경으로부터의 보호성 등을 결합한 형태로 일부 또는 모두 발현할 수 있는 가공 기술로는 투습방수 코팅, 필름 라미네이팅 가공 등의 코팅 기술을 들 수 있으며, 특히 이와 같은 코팅 기술은 시장의 요구에 따라 코팅의 고유한 특성인 투습방수성, 방풍성, 통기성, 보온성 외에 신축성, 자외선차단성, 경량성, 부드러운 촉감 등의 기능성이 추가되어 좀 더 기능적인 면을 강조한 제품의 개발이 요구되고 있다.As a processing technology that can express some or all in a form that combines temperature control, light weight, elasticity, breathability, and protection from the external environment, which are mainly required functions from such sports and leisure fibers, moisture-proof waterproof coating and film laminating processing Coating technologies such as these include, in particular, these coating technologies, in addition to moisture permeability, windproofness, breathability, and thermal insulation, which are the unique characteristics of coatings, are functional according to market demands, such as elasticity, UV protection, light weight, and soft touch. In addition, it is required to develop products that emphasize more functional aspects.

현재 세계적 트렌드인 나일론 및 폴리에스테르 초박지 합섬의 염색가공에 있어서 원사 및 원단의 물리적인 특성에 기인한 가공 시의 설비에 따른 작업가능성 문제와 공정과정에서 발생하는 강도 저하 문제, 각종 견뢰도 및 원단 좌우의 색상차 등의 문제로 인해 기존의 염색가공 업체들이 많은 어려움을 겪고 있는 실정이다.In the dyeing process of nylon and polyester ultra-thin paper synthetic fiber, which is the current global trend, there is a workability problem due to the facilities at the time of processing due to the physical properties of the yarn and the fabric, and a decrease in strength occurring in the process, various fastnesses, and the left and right of the fabric Due to problems such as color difference, existing dyeing processing companies are having a lot of difficulties.

한편, 투습방수 소재는 1960년대 중반에는 수지에 염화칼슘 미세 분말을 혼입하여 원단에 코팅한 후 물에서 용출시킨 미세다공 제품이 개발되었는데, 이 제품의 투습성은 우수하나 핀 홀에 의한 누수와 한랭 시 촉감 경화, 제품의 중량감 등의 이유로 시장에 정착하지 못했다. 1970년대에 이르러 GORE-TEX가 개발되면서 투습방수소재의 기본원리가 GORE-TEX에서 제시된 PTFE 필름 라미네이팅에 의해 미세다공질 피막을 원단에 형성하는 것으로 대변되었으며, 그 후 1979년에 일본 도레이의 엔트란트가 습식공정에 의한 미다공질 피막을 갖는 코팅 제품을 시판한 후 세계 투습방수포 시장이 급속히 성장하기 시작하였다.On the other hand, the moisture-permeable waterproof material was developed in the mid 1960s by mixing calcium chloride fine powder with resin and coating it on the fabric, followed by elution from the water. This product has excellent moisture permeability, but feels leaky and cold due to pinholes. It was not able to settle in the market for reasons such as curing and weight of the product. As the GORE-TEX was developed in the 1970s, the basic principle of the moisture-permeable waterproof material was represented by forming a microporous film on the fabric by laminating the PTFE film presented by GORE-TEX, and in 1979, Toray, Toray, Japan. After the commercially available coating product with a microporous coating by a wet process was launched, the world's moisture-permeable waterproof fabric market began to grow rapidly.

1980년대 초에는 후가공 기술이 아닌 특수원사를 사용하여 원단 자체의 밀도를 높인 투습방수원단이 도요보(분할형 복합섬유), 데이진(폴리에스터 극세사)에 의해 개발되었는데, 이러한 고밀도 직물은 일부 후가공 제품과 경쟁을 하였으나, 기능적인 측면에서 불리하여 이후 감성적인 측면을 강조하는 소재로 정립되었으며, 1990년대에 들어서 라미네이팅 제품과 기능성 건식코팅이 성장, 성숙기에 접어들었으며, 일본에서는 형상기억 PU 응용제품을 소개하였다. 2000년 이후에는 세계적으로 환경규제를 강화하고 있어서 용제형 코팅, 라미네이팅 제품이 감소하고 있으며, 'Water borne type'과 TPE 필름, Hot melt 접착에 대한 연구개발이 한창 진행되어 성장하고 있으며, 'High Solid PU polymer' 코팅이 도입되었으며, 미국의 Nextec에서 실리콘 소재를 이용하여 'EPIC'이라는 제품을 개발하여 출시하고 있다.In the early 1980s, a moisture-permeable waterproof fabric using a special yarn rather than a post-processing technology to increase the density of the fabric itself was developed by Toyobo (split type composite fiber) and Teijin (polyester microfiber). Although it competed with the product, it was established as a material that emphasized the emotional aspect after being disadvantageous in terms of functionality, and in the 1990s, laminating products and functional dry coatings entered the growth and maturity stages. Introduced. Since 2000, global environmental regulations have been strengthened to reduce solvent-based coatings and laminating products. Research and development on'Water borne type', TPE film, and hot melt adhesives has been in full swing and has grown. PU polymer' coating has been introduced, and Nextec in the United States has developed and released a product called'EPIC' using silicone materials.

국내에서는 1984년 코오롱의 습식 코팅 방식인 'HIPORA'를 필두로 하여 꾸준히 연구 개발되어 건식코팅과 트랜스퍼 코팅이 보급되었으며, 최근에는 라미네이팅 기술을 이용한 다양한 방식의 투습방수 원단이 개발되고 있다.In Korea, in 1984, Kolon's wet coating method'HIPORA' was continuously researched and developed, and dry coating and transfer coating were widely distributed. Recently, various types of moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics using laminating technology have been developed.

이렇듯 투습방수 원단의 기능성은 시대의 흐름에 따라 다양하게 발전해 왔다. 개발 초기에는 주로 내수압, 투습도 등의 기본 기능을 향상시키려는 노력이 강조 되었고, 이후 보온성, 신축성 등의 신기능을 부가하는 방향이었으나 80년대 중·후반에 이르러서는 기능을 추구함과 동시에 감성에 대한 요구가 강해졌으며, 이때 기능면에서는 코팅 피막층의 결로 억제가 중요한 과제가 되어 천연 고분자 원료를 응용한 흡수 및 방수성 부여 기술이 개발 되었으며, 태양광선을 조사했을 때 축열·방열 할 수 있는 세라믹 응용기술도 도입되었다.As such, the functionality of the moisture-permeable waterproof fabric has been developed in various ways according to the trend of the times. In the early stages of development, emphasis was placed on efforts to improve basic functions such as water pressure resistance and moisture permeability. Afterwards, it was a direction to add new functions such as heat retention and elasticity, but in the mid to late 80s, there was a demand for sensitivity at the same time as pursuing functions. At this time, in terms of function, suppression of condensation of the coating film layer has become an important task, and absorption and waterproofing technology using natural polymer raw materials has been developed, and ceramic application technology that can heat/dissipate when irradiated with sunlight is also introduced. .

이러한 기존의 개발품 중 Gore-tex로 대표되는 PTFE필름의 경우 고가의 가격 및 경시변화에 따른 경화문제가 심각하고, 친수무공필름인 Sympatex의 경우에는 결로 문제로 인한 착용성이 나쁘며, Nano-web제품의 경우에는 투습성은 좋으나 내수압이 떨어지며, 용제형 코팅제품의 경우에는 견뢰도 저하 및 환경 오염등의 다양한 단점이 속속 도출됨으로써 이에 대한 개선요구가 늘어나고 있는 실정이다.Among these existing developed products, the PTFE film represented by Gore-tex has serious curing problems due to high price and change over time, and in the case of Sympatex, a hydrophilic non-porous film, it has poor wearability due to condensation problems and Nano-web products. In the case of moisture permeability is good, but the water pressure is low, and in the case of solvent-type coating products, various shortcomings such as lowering of fastness and environmental pollution are continuously elicited, thereby increasing the demand for improvement.

이에 대한민국 등록특허 제10-0829459호에서는 유기 용제의 사용 없이 다공형 투습방수 원단을 제조하는 방법으로서,(a)원단 준비 공정(b)불소계 발수제를 사용하여 원단을 발수 처리하는 공정(c)열풍으로 열고정하는 공정(d)캘린더링하는 공정(e)상기 캘린더링된 원단의 일면에 나이프 오버 롤 코팅법 또는 플로우팅 나이프 코팅법에 의해 폴리우레탄 코팅 조성물을 코팅하는 공정(f)건조 및 경화하는 공정(g)원단을 50∼80 ℃의 물에 침지하여 수용성 폴리우레탄을 용출시키는 공정 및(h) 원단을 100∼180 ℃에서 건조한 후, 불소계 발수제를 사용하여 발수가공하여, 미세 다공질 폴리우레탄 막이 형성된 다공형 투습방수 원단을 수득하는 방법을 제시하여 투습성, 방수성, 통기성 등이 우수할 뿐만 아니라 결로(結露) 현상을 방지하여 착용시 쾌적성과 기능성이 탁월한 다공형 투습방수 원단을 제공하고 있다.Accordingly, in the Republic of Korea Patent No. 10-0829459 as a method of manufacturing a porous moisture-permeable waterproof fabric without the use of an organic solvent, (a) fabric preparation process (b) process of water-repellent treatment with a fluorine-based water repellent (c) hot air (D) Calendering process (e) Process of coating polyurethane coating composition on one side of the calendered fabric by knife over roll coating method or floating knife coating method (f) Drying and curing Process (g) Process of eluting the water-soluble polyurethane by immersing the fabric in water at 50-80°C, and (h) drying the fabric at 100-180°C, then water-repelling it using a fluorine-based water repellent agent to form a fine porous polyurethane membrane. By presenting a method for obtaining the formed porous moisture-permeable waterproof fabric, it not only provides excellent moisture permeability, waterproofness, breathability, etc., but also prevents condensation and provides a porous moisture-permeable waterproof fabric that is excellent in comfort and functionality when worn.

또한 대한민국 등록특허 제10-1045642호에서 초고분자량 습기 경화형 폴리우레탄 수지를 포함하는 코팅 조성물을 이용하여 다이렉트 코팅법으로 폴리에스터, 나일론, 면 및 이를 이용한 복합 직물로 이루어진 섬유포지에 코팅하고, 코팅직전 또는 코팅직후에 상기 섬유포지를 물, 친수화제, 또는 이들의 혼합물을 포함하는 혼합용액에 침지하여 친수화 처리를 한 후 30 ~ 80%로 픽업하여 건조·경화시키는 것을 특징으로 하는 투습성 및 통기성이 우수한 폴리우레탄 코팅 포지의 제조방법을 제시하여 반발탄성 및 구김방지 효과가 우수하고, 우수한 투습성 및 통기성을 나타내고 소프트한 감촉을 가지는 폴리우레탄 코팅 포지를 제공한바 있다.그러나 상기 선행기술에서는 배합 및 작업의 어려움이 존재할 뿐만 아니라 직물에 직접 코팅함으로써 코팅 층의 두께가 필수적으로 두꺼워 통기성 및 터치감이 저하될 우려가 있었다.In addition, in the Republic of Korea Patent No. 10-1045642 using a coating composition containing an ultra-high molecular weight moisture-curable polyurethane resin is coated on fiber cloth made of polyester, nylon, cotton and composite fabrics using the coating method, just before coating Alternatively, immediately after coating, the fiber wrapper is immersed in a mixed solution containing water, a hydrophilizing agent, or a mixture thereof, subjected to a hydrophilization treatment, and then picked up at 30 to 80% to dry and harden. By presenting a method for producing an excellent polyurethane coated forge, there has been provided a polyurethane coated forge having excellent rebound resilience and anti-wrinkle effect, excellent moisture permeability and breathability, and having a soft texture. In addition to the difficulty, there is a fear that the thickness of the coating layer is essentially thick by coating directly on the fabric, thereby deteriorating breathability and touch.

상기에서와 같이 일반적으로 사용되고 있는 통기성 투습방수원단이나, 특허문헌 1 및 특허문헌 2에 기재된 투습방수원단의 경우, 투습방수기능을 충족시키기 위하여 원단에 별도의 투습방수기능을 위한 특수필름이나 폴리우레탄막을 형성시키는 수단으로서 방수의 기능은 충족시킬 수 있으나 통기성, 즉 투습성이 미흡하여 결로현상이 발생하게 되며, 특히 장시간 사용시 특수필름이나 폴리우레탄막이 손상, 혹은 분리되면서 방수기능도 떨어지게 된다.In the case of the breathable moisture-permeable waterproof fabric commonly used as described above, or in the case of the moisture-permeable waterproof fabric described in Patent Documents 1 and 2, a special film or polyurethane for a separate moisture-permeable waterproof function on the fabric to satisfy the moisture-permeable waterproof function As a means for forming a film, the function of waterproofing can be satisfied, but condensation occurs due to lack of breathability, that is, moisture permeability. In particular, when used for a long time, the special film or polyurethane film is damaged or separated, and the waterproofing function is also deteriorated.

뿐만 아니라 원단표면에 투습, 방수를 위한 특수필름층이나 폴리우레탄막을 형성시키는 가공작업에 고도의 가공기술과 비용상승요인이 되고, 가공에 따른 원단의 경량감이 떨어지게 되는 등의 단점이 있는 것이었다.In addition, there were disadvantages such as high processing technology and cost increase in the processing work of forming a special film layer or polyurethane film for moisture permeation and waterproofing on the fabric surface, and the lightness of the fabric is reduced due to processing.

특허 제10-0829459호 "다공형 투습방수원단 및 그 제조방법"Patent No. 10-0829459 "Perforated moisture-permeable waterproof fabric and its manufacturing method" 특허 제10-1045642호 "투습성 및 통기성을 갖는 폴리우레탄 코팅포지 및 그의 제조방법"Patent No. 10-1045642 "Polyurethane coated forge having moisture permeability and breathability and method for manufacturing the same"

본 발명은 나일론원단 표면에 특수필름이나 수지코팅과 같은 별도의 특수가공처리를 하지 않더라도 투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단을 얻고, 상기 경량의 투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 나일론원단을 이용하여 고품질의 아웃도어의류제품을 제공할 수 있게 한 것이다.The present invention obtains a lightweight nylon fabric having moisture permeability and water repellency even without special processing such as a special film or resin coating on the surface of the nylon fabric, and uses high quality nylon fabric having the moisture permeability and water repellency function. To provide outdoor clothing products.

상기 과제를 해결하기 위한 수단으로서, 본 발명은 여러가닥의 나일론 필라멘트사를 합사하여 합사된 무연의 나일론사를 얻고, 상기 합사된 무연의 나일론사를 연사과정을 통하여 단위길이당 꼬임이 매우 높은 강연의 나일론사를 얻고(S꼬임, Z꼬임 별도 연사함), 상기 강연의 나일론사를 열처리하여, 합사된 나일론 필라멘트사의 꼬임이 열고정되게 한 나일론 가공사를 얻고, 상기에서 얻어진 나일론가공사를 경위사로 제직하되, 경사와 위사의 꼬임방향을 달리함과 동시에, 고밀도로 제직하여, 고밀도 나일론 생지원단을 얻고, 상기 나일론 생지원단을 후가공하여 발명에서 제공하고자 하는 경량의 나일론원단을 제조하는 것이다.As a means for solving the above problems, the present invention is obtained by combining several strands of nylon filament yarns to obtain unleaded lead-free nylon yarns, and twisting the braided lead-free nylon yarns through a twisting process is very high. To obtain the nylon yarn of (S twist, Z twist twist separately), heat-treated the nylon yarn of the lecture, to obtain a nylon yarn with a twisted twist of the nylon filament yarn, and weaving the nylon processing obtained above as a warp yarn However, while varying the twist direction of the warp and weft, weaving with high density, obtaining a high-density nylon raw support end, and post-processing the nylon raw support end to produce a lightweight nylon fabric to be provided in the present invention.

본 발명은 여러가닥의 나일론 필라멘트사를 합사하여 합사된 무연의 나일론사를 얻고, 상기 합사된 무연의 나일론사를 연사과정을 통하여 단위길이당 꼬임이 매우 높은 강연의 나일론사를 얻고(S꼬임, Z꼬임 별도 연사함), 상기 강연의 나일론사를 열처리하여, 합사된 나일론 필라멘트사의 꼬임이 열고정되게 한 나일론가공사를 얻고, 상기에서 얻어진 나일론가공사를 경위사로 제직하되, 경사와 위사의 꼬임방향을 달리함과 동시에, 고밀도로 제직하여, 고밀도 나일론 생지원단을 얻고, 상기 나일론 생지원단을 후가공하여, 나일론원단 표면에 별도의 특수필름이나 수지코팅과 같은 별도의 특수가공처리를 하지 않더라도 투습, 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단을 얻고, 상기 경량의 투습, 발수기능을 갖는 나일론원단을 이용하여 고품질의 아웃도어의류제품을 제공할 수 있게 하는 등의 효과가 있다.The present invention combines several strands of nylon filament yarn to obtain a plied lead-free nylon yarn, and obtains a twisted nylon yarn having a very high twist per unit length through the twisting process of the plied lead-free nylon yarn (S twist, Z twist twisted separately), by heat-treating the nylon yarn of the lecture, to obtain a nylon fabrication process in which the twisted yarns of the nylon filament yarn are heat-fixed, and weaving the nylon fabrication process obtained above as a warp yarn, but inclining and twisting the weft direction of the weft yarn. At the same time, it is woven at a high density, obtains a high-density nylon live support stage, and post-processes the nylon live support stage, allowing moisture and water repellent even if there is no special special processing such as a special film or resin coating on the surface of the nylon fabric. It has the effect of obtaining a light-weight nylon fabric having a, and providing a high-quality outdoor clothing product using the lightweight moisture-permeable and water-repellent nylon fabric.

도 1 : 본 발명에서 사용되는 나일론 필라멘트사의 예시도
도 2 : 도 1의 필라멘트사를 합사한 무연의 나일론사 상태도
도 3 : 도 2의 무연의 나일론사를 S꼬임으로 가연한 상태도
도 4 : 도 2의 무연의 나일론사를 Z꼬임으로 가연한 상태도
도 5 : 발명에서 얻어진 경량의 나일론원단 예시도(사진)
도 6 : 도 5의 상태에서 물방울을 떨어뜨린 상태도(사진)
도 7 : 도 6의 상태에서 물방울을 분산시킨 상태도(사진)
1: Illustrative view of nylon filament yarn used in the present invention
Figure 2: State diagram of the lead-free nylon yarn incorporating the filament yarn of Figure 1
Figure 3: State of the lead-free nylon yarn of Figure 2 in a twisted S twist
Figure 4: State of the lead-free nylon yarn of Figure 2 in a twisted Z twist
Figure 5: Illustrative view of lightweight nylon fabric obtained in the invention (photo)
Figure 6: State diagram of dropping water in the state of Figure 5 (photo)
Figure 7: State diagram of dispersing water droplets in the state of Figure 6 (photo)

이하 본 발명의 일실시예를 첨부도면에 따라 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, an embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

본 발명은 투습 및 발수기능을 위하여 별도의 나일론원단 표면에 투습 및 발수를 위한 별도특수수지를 가공처리를 하지 않더라도 투습 및 발수기능을 만족하는 나일론원단을 제조하는 것으로서, 나일론가공사 제조단계와, 제조된 나일론가공사를 경위사로 하여 제직하는 나일론생지원단 제직단계와, 상기 나일론생지원단을 후가공하여 제조하는 투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단 제조단계로 구성된다.The present invention is to produce a nylon fabric that satisfies the moisture permeability and water repellent function even if the special special resin for moisture permeation and water repellency is not processed on the surface of a separate nylon fabric for the moisture permeability and water repellent function. It consists of a weaving stage of a nylon life support group that weaves the processed nylon processing work as a weft yarn, and a light weight nylon fabric production step that has a moisture-repellent and water-repellent function that is produced by post-processing the nylon life support group.

나일론가공사 제조는 다음과 같이 된다.The production of nylon processing is as follows.

여러가닥의 나일론 필라멘트사(1)를 합사하여 원하는 굵기를 갖는 무연의 나일론사(2)를 얻는다.Several strands of nylon filament yarns 1 are joined to obtain lead-free nylon yarns 2 having a desired thickness.

무연의 나일론사(2) 굵기, 즉 데니어(d)는 15~200데니어(d) 중 선택하여 사용하며, 본 발명의 실시예에서는 13가닥의 나일론필라멘트사(1)를 합사한 40데니어 무연의 나일론사(2)를 적용하였다.Lead-free nylon yarn (2) thickness, i.e., denier (d) is used to select from 15 to 200 denier (d), in the embodiment of the present invention 40 denier lead-free yarn of 13 strands of nylon filament yarn (1) Nylon yarn (2) was applied.

상기에서 무연의 나일론사(2)의 굵기가 15데니어(d) 이하이면, 너무 가늘어 제직에 어려움이 따르고, 200데니어(d) 이상이면 발수기능이 떨어지기 때문에 바람직하지 않다.In the above, if the thickness of the lead-free nylon yarn 2 is 15 denier (d) or less, it is too thin and difficult to weave, and if it is 200 denier (d) or more, it is not preferable because the water-repellent function is poor.

상기에서 얻어진 40데니어 무연의 나일론사(2)를 연사기로 연사하되, 강연으로 연사하여, 강연의 나일론사(3)를 제조한다.The 40 denier lead-free nylon yarn (2) obtained above was twisted with a twisting machine, and then twisted with a lecture to prepare a nylon yarn (3).

상기 강연의 나일론사(3)의 꼬임수는 800~2500T/M의 조건으로 하되, 발명의 실시예에서는 1500T/M의 조건으로 하였다.The number of twists of the nylon yarn 3 of the lecture was set to 800 to 2500 T/M, but in the embodiment of the present invention was set to 1500 T/M.

상기에서 강연의 나일론사(3)가 800T/M 이하이면 투습 및 발수기능이 떨어지고, 2500T/M 이상이면 연사에 어려움이 있을 뿐 아니라, 꼬임을 높이더라도 투습 및 발수의 효과가 상승하지 않기 때문에 바람직하지 않다.In the above, if the nylon yarn 3 of the lecture is 800 T/M or less, the moisture permeability and water repellent function is deteriorated, and if it is more than 2500 T/M, it is not only difficult to twist, but even if the twist is increased, the effect of moisture permeation and water repellency does not increase. Do not.

상기 연사과정에서 무연의 나일론사(2)에 가해지는 꼬임은, "S"꼬임(우연)과, "Z"꼬임(좌연), 두가지의 꼬임형태로 강연의 나일론사(3)(3')를 별도로 제조한다.The twist applied to the lead-free nylon yarn 2 in the twisting process is a twisted nylon yarn (3) (3') in two types of twist: "S" twist (right) and "Z" twist (left). Prepare separately.

상기에서 얻어진 1500T/M으로 연사된 강연의 나일론사(3)를 열처리하여 여러가닥의 필라멘트사(1)를 열고정시켜 열고정된 나일론가공사(4)를 얻는다.By heat-treating the nylon yarn 3 of the twisted yarn obtained at 1500 T/M obtained above, heat-fixing several strands of the filament yarn 1 to obtain a heat-fixed nylon fabrication 4.

열처리조건은 아래와 같다.Heat treatment conditions are as follows.

나일론섬유(나일론6)의 경우, 용융온도가 215℃이고, 유리전이온도가 45℃정도로 대체로 낮기 때문에, 열처리부의 온도를 150~200℃로 유지시킨 상태에서 강연의 나일론사(3)를 약1~2초간 열처리될 수 있게 통과시키면, 낮은 유리전이점의 영향으로 물성이 변하면서 통과하게 되고, 열처리부를 지난 강연의 나일론사는 자연냉각하게 되고, 냉각과정에서 꼬임이 고정되어 까칠한 촉감의 열고정된 나일론가공사(4)가 얻어진다.In the case of nylon fiber (nylon 6), since the melting temperature is 215°C and the glass transition temperature is generally low at about 45°C, the nylon yarn (3) of the lecture is about 1 while maintaining the temperature of the heat treatment section at 150-200°C. When it is allowed to pass through heat treatment for ~2 seconds, the properties change through the influence of the low glass transition point, and the nylon yarn of the lecture that passed through the heat treatment part is naturally cooled, and the twist is fixed during the cooling process, so that the heat is fixed and heated. Nylon processing (4) is obtained.

상기에서 얻어진 열고정된 나일론가공사(4)를 경사(WP) 및 위사(WF)로 제직하여 고밀도의 나일론생지원단을 얻는다.Weaving the heat-fixed nylon processing (4) obtained in the above with a warp (WP) and weft (WF) to obtain a high-density nylon support group.

상기 나일론생지원단 제직조건은, 경사밀도 120~200올/IN, 위사밀도 110~180올/IN의 고밀도로 제직하되, 발명의 실시예에서는 40데니어(d)로서 경사밀도 144올/IN, 위사밀도 134올/IN, 평직으로 제직하였다.The weaving condition of the nylon support group is woven at a high density of inclination density 120-200 ol/IN, weft density 110-180 ol/IN, but in the embodiment of the invention, as 40 denier (d), inclination density 144 ol/IN, weft Density 134 ole/IN, plain woven.

상기에서 경,위사의 밀도는 가는 실일경우 밀도가 높아지고, 굵은 실의 경우 밀도가 낮아진다.In the above, the density of the light and weft yarns becomes higher when it is a fine thread, and lowers when it is a thick thread.

또한 직물조직의 경우 평직 이외에 능직과 같은 다른 조직으로 직물을 제직할 수도 있다.In addition, in the case of the fabric tissue, the fabric may be woven from other tissues such as twill.

상기에서 경사 및 위사의 꼬임방향은 서로 달리하여 제직한다.In the above, the twisting directions of warp and weft yarns are woven differently.

즉 경사로 사용되는 열고정된 나일론가공사(4)를 "S"꼬임으로 할 경우에는 위사로 사용되는 열고정된 나일론가공사(4')를 "Z"꼬임으로 설정한다.That is, when the heat-fixed nylon fabrication 4 used as a slope is twisted as "S", the heat-set nylon fabrication 4'used as a weft yarn is set as a "Z" twist.

또한 경사로 사용되는 열고정된 나일론가공사(4)(4')를 "S"꼬임으로 된 나일론가공사와, "Z"꼬임으로 된 나일론가공사를 반복배열하고, 위사 역시 "S"꼬임으로 된 나일론가공사와, "Z"꼬임으로 된 나일론가공사를 반복배열되게 하여 제직할 수도 있다. 단, 경위사 모두 동일한 꼬임으로 된 나일론가공사를 사용하지 않으면 된다.Also, heat-set nylon processing used as a ramp (4)(4') is repeatedly arranged with nylon processing with "S" twist and nylon processing with "Z" twist, and the weft also has nylon processing with "S" twist Wow, it is also possible to weave nylon fabrics with "Z" twists in a repeat arrangement. However, it is not necessary to use the same nylon twisting process for all the inspectors.

상기 조건으로 제직된 나일론생지원단을 후가공하여 발명에서 제공하고자 하는 투습 및 발수기능을 만족하는 경량의 나일론원단(20)을 얻는다.(도 5 참조)After the nylon life support woven fabric is woven under the above conditions, a lightweight nylon fabric 20 that satisfies the water vapor transmission and water repellent functions to be provided in the invention is obtained.

나일론생지원단(10)의 후가공은 섬유가공분야에서 일반적으로 실시되고 있는 공정이나 아래에서 간략히 설명한다.The post-processing of the nylon life support stage 10 is briefly described below, although the process is generally performed in the textile processing field.

먼저 정련공정을 통하여 제직준비공정이나 제직공정에서 나일론가공사(4) 및 나일론생지원단(10)에 가해진 호료나, 오염물을 깨끗이 제거하여 염색공정에서 원활한 염색이 이루어지게 하는 것이다.First, through the refining process, the dye or the contaminants applied to the nylon fabrication process (4) and the nylon support group (10) in the weaving preparation process or the weaving process are removed, so that the dyeing process is smoothly performed.

정련이 완료되면 연속수세기를 이용하여 깨끗이 수세한 다음, 텐터기로 120~200℃에서 30~60m/min의 조건으로 건조한다.When the refining is completed, it is washed with water using a continuous washing machine, and then dried under a condition of 30 to 60 m/min at 120 to 200°C with a tenter.

상기에서와 같이 정련, 수세, 건조된 나일론생지원단을 레피드염색기를 통하여 원하는 색상으로 염색후 수세하고 확포한 다음 텐터기로 150~210℃에서 30~60m/min의 조건으로 건조한다.After refining, washing and drying the dyed nylon support group with a desired color through a dye dyeing machine as described above, washed with water and expanded, then dried with a tenter at 150 to 210°C under conditions of 30 to 60 m/min.

건조완료된 나일론생지원단을 최종적으로 발수처리하여, 발명에서 제공하고자 하는 투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단(20)을 얻는다.Finally, the dried nylon life support group is finally subjected to water-repellent treatment to obtain a lightweight nylon fabric 20 having moisture-repellent and water-repellent functions to be provided in the present invention.

발수처리에서 사용되는 발수제는 여러 종류의 발수제가 사용되고 있으나, 발명의 실시예에서는 불소계 발수제를 사용하였으며, 불소계 발수제가 희석된 발수처리액 내를 나일론생지원단을 침지형태로 통과시킨 다음, 150~205℃의 텐터기를 20~45m/min의 속도로 통과시키면서 확포, 건조함으로서 발명에서 제공하고자 하는 투습 및 발수기능을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단(20)을 제조한다.Several types of water repellents are used in the water repellent treatment, but in the embodiment of the present invention, a fluorine-based water repellent was used. After passing the nylon life support layer in the dilute water-repellent treatment solution in which the fluorine-based water repellent was diluted, 150 to 205 A lightweight nylon fabric 20 having moisture permeability and water repellency to be provided in the present invention is manufactured by expanding and drying while passing a tenter group of ℃ at a speed of 20 to 45 m/min.

이와 같이 제조된 경량의 나일론원단(20)은, 나일론원단(20)을 제직하는 과정에서, 복수개의 나일론필라멘트사(1)로 된 무연의 나일론사(2)를 얻고, 상기의 무연의 나일론사(2)를 연사기를 통하여 800~2500T/M의 꼬임조건으로 강연하고, 상기 연사된 강연의 나일론사를 열처리부에서 150~200℃로 1~2초간 열처리한 다음 냉각시켜 강연의 꼬임이 열고정되게 하여 까칠한 촉감의 나일론가공사가 얻어진다.The lightweight nylon fabric 20 manufactured as described above, in the process of weaving the nylon fabric 20, obtains a lead-free nylon yarn 2 made of a plurality of nylon filament yarns 1, and the lead-free nylon yarn (2) is twisted by twisting conditions of 800~2500T/M through a twisting machine, and the nylon yarn of the twisted steel is heat-treated at 150~200℃ for 1~2 seconds in a heat treatment section, and then cooled to heat and twist the steel. By doing so, a rough texture of nylon processing is obtained.

상기 강연의 나일론가공사를 직기를 통하여 고밀도의 나일론생지원단을 제직하되, 경사밀도 120~200올/IN, 위사밀도 110~180올/IN의 조건으로 제직한다.Weaving the nylon processing work of the lecture through a loom, weaving a high-density nylon life support group, but weaving under the conditions of 120 to 200 ol/IN of warp density and 110 to 180 ol/IN of weft density.

특히 제직과정에서 경사의 꼬임방향과 위사의 꼬임방향이 서로 다른 강연의 나일론가공사를 사용하였기 때문에, 경위사교착점의 간극을 최소화하여 투습은 원활히 하되, 발수성이 유지되게 하였으며, 다소 미흡한 발수성은 후가공공정에서 실시되는 발수제 처리를 통하여 우수한 발수성을 얻을 수 있다.(도 6, 도 7 참조)Particularly, in the weaving process, because the twisting direction of the warp yarn and the twisting direction of the weft yarns were used, the gap between the warp yarn abutment point was minimized, so that the moisture permeation was smooth, but the water repellency was maintained. Excellent water repellency can be obtained through the water repellent treatment carried out in (See FIGS. 6 and 7)

의류관련시험연구원에서 시험한 발수도의 측정결과, 가공직후 경량의 나일론원단의 경우 발수도가 5급(100)으로 측정되었으며, 5회세탁후 발수도 역시 4급(80)으로서 양호한 발수성이 유지되는 것으로 측정되었다. 특히 본 발명의 경우 경위사로 사용한 나일론가공사가 열고정되어 있어, 까칠한 촉감이 유지되고, 따라서 제직한 원단의 경우 조직이 미어지거나 붕괴되지 않고 형태변형이 거의 없게 된다.As a result of measuring the water repellency tested by the Apparel-related Testing Research Institute, the water repellency of the lightweight nylon fabric immediately after processing was measured as level 5 (100), and the water repellency after washing 5 times was also level 4 (80), maintaining good water repellency It was measured to be. Particularly, in the case of the present invention, the nylon processing used as the warp yarn is heat-set, so that a rough texture is maintained, and thus, in the case of the woven fabric, the tissue is not pushed or collapsed, and there is almost no shape deformation.

따라서 발명에서 얻어진 경량의 나일론원단의 경우, 종래와 같이 투습, 방수를 위한 별도의 특수수지처리과정을 거치지 않고, 강연의 나일론사를 열처리하여 열고정한 나일론가공사를 얻고, 상기 꼬임방향(S꼬임, Z꼬임)이 서로 다른 나일론가공사를 경위사로 하여 평직으로 고밀도제직하고, 발수처리하는 간략한 과정만으로도 투습성과 발수성이 우수한 경량의 나일론원단을 얻게 되고, 상기 나일론원단을 이용하여 투습 및 발수성이 우수한 고품질의 아웃도어의류 제품을 얻을 수 있게 된다.Therefore, in the case of the lightweight nylon fabric obtained in the invention, heat-treated nylon yarns are heat-treated to obtain heat-treated nylon processing without undergoing a separate special resin treatment process for moisture permeation and waterproofing as in the prior art, and the twist direction (S twist, High-density weaving in plain weave using nylon processing with different twists and twists, and a lightweight process with excellent moisture permeability and water repellency is obtained with a simple process of water repellent, and the high quality of moisture permeability and water repellency is excellent by using the nylon fabric. You will be able to obtain outdoor clothing products.

(1)--필라멘트사
(2)--무연의 나일론사
(3)--강연의 나일론사(S꼬임)
(3')--강연의 나일론사(Z꼬임)
(4)--열고정된 나일론사(S꼬임)
(4')--열고정된 나일론사(Z꼬임)
(20)--경량의 나일론원단
(21)--물방울
(1)--Filament Corporation
(2)--Lead-free nylon yarn
(3)--Lecture nylon yarn (S twist)
(3')--Lecture nylon yarn (Z twist)
(4)--Heat-fixed nylon yarn (S twist)
(4')--Heat-fixed nylon yarn (Z twist)
(20)--Lightweight nylon fabric
(21)--Water Drop

Claims (4)

나일론필라멘트사를 합사하여 무연의 나일론사를 얻고, 상기 무연의 나일론사를 800~2500T/M의 조건으로 가연하여 "S"꼬임으로 된 강연의 나일론사와, "Z"꼬임으로 된 강연의 나일론사를 얻고, 상기 강연의 나일론사를 열처리하고 냉각하여 꼬임이 열고정된 나일론가공사를 얻고, 상기 나일론가공사를 경위사로 하여 제직하되, 경사의 꼬임방향과 위사의 꼬임방향을 달리함과 동시에, 경사 및 위사 밀도를 고밀도로 제직하여 경위사교착점의 간극을 최소화한 나일론생지원단을 얻고, 상기 나일론생지원단을 정련하고, 염색, 수세한 다음, 발수제로 발수처리하여 제조함을 특징으로 하는 투습 및 발수성을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단 제조방법.The nylon filament yarn was combined to obtain a lead-free nylon yarn, and the lead-free nylon yarn was twisted under the conditions of 800 to 2500 T/M, and the twisted nylon yarn of "S" twist and the twisted nylon yarn of "Z" twist Obtaining, heat-treating and cooling the nylon yarn of the lecture to obtain a heat-fixed nylon fabrication process, and weaving the nylon fabrication process as a warp yarn, but at the same time varying the twist direction of the warp and the twist direction of the weft, and Weaving and water repellency are characterized by weaving the weft density to a high density to obtain a nylon life support group that minimizes the gap between the warp yarn abutment points, refining, dyeing and washing the nylon life support group, and then water-repelling it with a water repellent agent. Lightweight nylon fabric manufacturing method. 제1항에 있어서, 경사 및 위사의 꼬임방향을 달리하되, 경사를 "S꼬임"으로 된 나일론가공사와, "Z꼬임"으로 된 나일론가공사를 반복배열하고, 위사를 "S꼬임"으로 된 나일론가공사와 "Z꼬임"으로 된 나일론가공사를 반복배열한 것을 특징으로 하는 투습 및 발수성을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the twist direction of the warp and weft yarns is different, but the nylon processing of the warp yarn with "S twist" and the nylon processing of the "Z twist" are repeatedly arranged, and the nylon with the weft yarn of "S twist" A method of manufacturing a lightweight nylon fabric having moisture repellency and water repellency, characterized by repeatedly arranging the construction and the nylon processing made of "Z twist". 제1항에 있어서, 경사 및 위사로 사용되는 나일론가공사의 굵기는 15~200데니어(d)이고, 경사밀도는 120~200올/IN, 위사밀도는 110~180올/IN인것을 특징으로 하는 투습 및 발수성을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단 제조방법.According to claim 1, characterized in that the thickness of the nylon processing used as warp and weft is 15 to 200 denier (d), the warp density is 120 to 200 ol/IN, and the weft density is 110 to 180 ol/IN. A method of manufacturing a lightweight nylon fabric having moisture permeability and water repellency. 제1항에 있어서, 나일론가공사를 경위사로 하여 제직하는 조직은 평직이고, 발수제는 불소계 발수제인 것을 특징으로 하는 투습 및 발수성을 갖는 경량의 나일론원단 제조방법. The method for manufacturing a lightweight nylon fabric having moisture permeability and water repellency according to claim 1, characterized in that the tissue weaving using nylon processing as a warp yarn is plain weave, and the water repellent is a fluorine-based water repellent.
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JPH06184858A (en) * 1992-12-21 1994-07-05 Asahi Kasei Textiles Ltd Embossed woven fabric
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