KR102084015B1 - Manufacturing method of lyocell and polyester spindraw complex yarn capable of expressing melange color - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention manufactures long/short fiber composite yarn by using spandex yarn as core yarn, lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) as intermediate yarn, and lyocell short fibers as sheath yarn which are subjected to stretching and heat treatment to become a composite. Accordingly, the present invention expresses the touch and appearance of natural fibers of lyocell short fibers protruding on the surface of the yarn while expressing the elasticity of spandex yarn in the fabric, controls the core yarn, the intermediate yarn, and the sheath yarn so that the air pressure supplied in the step of forming air-confounding between a second roller and a linear speed control roller is periodically or irregularly changed, and provides the degree of air-confounding formation periodically or irregularly, thereby expressing a melange color when dyeing the composite yarn.

Description

Manufacturing method of lyocell and polyester spindraw composite yarn capable of expressing melange color {Manufacturing method of lyocell and polyester spindraw complex yarn capable of expressing melange color}

The present invention is to composite the long / short fibers to have new functionality to form air entanglement of lyocell short fibers, lyocell-like polyester yarn and spandex to express the natural emotional expression differentiated from the existing composite yarn and consumers' preference The present invention relates to a high-functional natural long / short composite yarn expressing the functionality to suit the fabric and a fabric manufacturing method using the same.

In addition, by periodically or irregularly controlling the pressure of the air supplied by the solenoid valve at the stage of air entanglement, the frequency of air entanglement of the composite yarn is changed periodically or irregularly so that the melange color is expressed after dyeing, such as natural materials. A method of making yarns used to make fabrics with naturalness and excellent touch.

The present invention uses a multi-stranded spandex filament as a core, a multi-shrink long / short fiber using a Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) as an intermediate yarn, and a Lyocell short fiber as a yarn. The present invention relates to a composite processed yarn and a method of manufacturing the same, and because the shrinkage difference between the screening, the intermediate yarn, and the superfine yarn is different, the fabric has a high elasticity, matteness, touch like lyocells and excellent drape and price competitiveness due to different shrinkage differences after dyeing processing. The present invention relates to a method for producing a long / short fiber composite yarn.

Particularly in the clothing industry, the core of product planning is shifting to efficiently reflecting and satisfying the complex and dynamic emotions of consumers by harmonizing materials and styles. It is no exaggeration to say that the choice of materials determines the product's sales, as the overall quality is determined by interaction with other elements in the final product. Therefore, in order to accurately reflect the delicate emotional demands of consumers in product planning, an integrated study on factors that may affect the fashion material image is necessary.

It has led consumers to form a boom of well-being, and various textiles based on high-performance eco-friendly materials are emerging one after another in the field of textile materials and fashion. In order to maximize comfort and naturalness, natural materials such as silk, cotton, and hemp are used, or plants such as bamboo and corn have been spotlighted as eco-friendly fiber raw materials. Development of materials is actively underway.

In recent years, the global fashion and fashion trends in the global apparel industry have been driven by the fast fashion industry in the form of global brand SPA due to changes in the distribution paradigm. As global brands represented by (Japan), ZARA (Spain), H & M (Sweden), etc. are entering the domestic market in earnest, we will be able to preemptively respond to trends of consumers through the differentiated development of long and short fiber composite yarns. There is a need.

Lyocell fiber, a kind of cellulose fiber known as an environmentally friendly fiber, is a natural fiber with good touch when it comes into contact with the human body.It is a scientific name of a new material fiber, which was granted from BISFA, an organization that established the standard term for fiber in 1989. It is a kind of cellulose fiber that has excellent functional properties and natural texture and hygroscopicity of natural fiber.

Based on differentiated materials with multi-functionality by securing differentiated sensitivity and eco-friendliness using Lyocell fiber and modified PET multifunctional composite yarn, we can develop high value-added clothing materials and products in connection with consumer trends with global fashion brands. There is a need.

The lyocell short fiber, an eco-friendly fiber material, is exposed to the surface of the yarn, and the elastic part is made of high elastic spandex yarn and Lyocell-like polyester yarn as the intermediate yarn. There is a need for the development of long / short fiber composites with functions.

Korean Patent Publication No. 10-2013-0135427

The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems to stretch and use spanned yarn as a screening, Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) as a middle yarn, lyocell short fibers as a superfine yarn When a composite fabric is manufactured by manufacturing composite long-short fibers by heat treatment, expressing the elasticity of spandex yarn in the fabric and expressing the feel and appearance of the natural fiber of Lyocell short fibers that protrude on the surface of the yarn. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a long / short fiber composite fabrication process having a low elasticity and a poor dyeing rate, and a knitted fabric produced by the same as a material for clothing.

In addition, by controlling the air pressure supplied in the step of forming air entanglement between the second roller and the linear velocity control roller periodically or irregularly in the screening, the intermediate yarn and the super yarn, the composite yarn is periodically or irregularly provided. In the case of dyeing construction, the purpose is to be able to express Melange color.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention, the stretch stretching step of stretching the spandex yarn to the final fineness of 70 denier by stretching at a draw ratio of 2.0 to 3.0; Feeding step of feeding the stretched spandex yarn, 50 to 60 denier lyocell like polyester spin draw yarn to the intermediate yarn, 50 to 60'S lyocell short fibers to the stretching device to the stretching apparatus: drawing the intermediate yarn And a non-contact heat treatment, and the apostle alignment step of matching the yarns in the screening and weaving and the second roller: by supplying the air nozzle with a varying air pressure in the range of 0.8 to 4.0 kgf / cm ² Air entwined step of weaving through the air entanglement at a frequency of 400 to 1000 times / second; and the manufacture of a melange color lyocell and polyester composite processing comprising a winding step of winding the air-entangled composite yarn Provide a method.

In addition, in the drawing and non-contact heat treatment step of the intermediate yarn, the draw ratio between the first roller and the second roller is within 1.00 to 1.10, the temperature of the first roller is 90 to 110 ℃, the non-contact heat treatment temperature is 200 to 230 ℃, An overfeed rate between the second roller and the linear velocity control roller in the air entanglement step is 1.01 to 1.03.

In addition, the air pressure is changed in the range of 0.8 to 4.0 kgf / cm ² in the air entanglement step to provide a method for producing a melange color lyocell and polyester composite processing, characterized in that it is periodically changed using a solenoid valve. do.

On the other hand, the number of interlacing in the air entanglement step provides a method for producing a lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange, characterized in that it is periodically changed in the range of 20 to 60 / M.

On the other hand, it provides a lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange, characterized in that the manufacturing method is produced.

According to the present invention, the long- and short-fiber composite of spandex yarn, Lyocell, and Lyocell-like polyester spindrose to have new functionality. Lyocell yarn is located at the outermost position and Lyocell-like polyester yarn is located in the middle layer. The present invention relates to a long / short composite processing and a fabric manufacturing method using the same, by forming an air entanglement so that spandex forms the innermost layer, expressing natural emotional expression similar to that of the existing natural materials, and expressing the functionality according to consumers' preferences. .

Lyocell-like polyester yarn improves the dyeing properties, and the polyester fiber is modified to enhance the drape. It is located in, improving the appearance and emotional parts of the fabric.

In addition, the yarn and air entanglement was formed so that the spandex is located in the innermost layer, the problems of whiteness difference, weaving, weaving burst, falling out, weaving defects due to the difference in elongation and shrinkage significantly reduced.

On the other hand, by controlling the frequency and intensity of air entanglement periodically or irregularly on the surface of the yarn, it is possible to express a soft melange effect by the difference in the fine dye concentration on the surface of the yarn according to the dyeing of the composite processing.

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a manufacturing apparatus of a lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing melange color according to the present invention.
Figure 2 is a manufacturing process of the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange color according to the present invention.
3 is an enlarged photograph (b) of the second roller 80 and the linear speed control roller 90 of the lyocell and polyester composite processing apparatus (a) capable of expressing melange color according to the present invention.
Figure 4 is a conceptual diagram for showing the yarn structure after the dyeing process of the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange color according to the present invention.

Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. First of all, it should be noted that in the drawings, the same components or parts denote the same reference numerals as much as possible. In describing the present invention, detailed descriptions of related well-known functions or configurations are omitted in order not to obscure the subject matter of the present invention.

The terms 'about', 'substantially', and the like as used in the specification of the present invention are used at or near the numerical values when the manufacturing and material tolerances unique to the meanings mentioned are given. To aid understanding, accurate or absolute figures are used to prevent inadvertent exploitation of the stated disclosure.

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the production apparatus of the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange color according to the present invention, Figure 2 is a manufacturing process diagram of the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange color according to the present invention.

Lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing melange color according to the present invention is produced by using a spandex yarn, Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) as a yarn, Lyocell short fibers as a yarn.

As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the stretch drawing step (S10) of stretching the spandex yarn 10 at a draw ratio of 2.0 to 3.0 to produce a spandex yarn having a final fineness of 70 denier is performed by a spandex yarn (a separate drawing device 40). Prepare by stretching 10). Spandex uses a Spandex feeder (not shown) to draw the draw ratio through the Nip Roller and the winding winder and controls the draw ratio by using a tension meter.

Spandex yarn can be stretched up to 5 to 8 times its original length with polyurethane as its main ingredient, and it is a yarn for swimwear, stockings, underwear, etc. Mainly used.

Spandex yarn 10 to be used in the present invention stretches the spandex yarn so that the final fineness after stretching is 70 denier in consideration of the final fineness of the lyocell and polyester composite processing to be finally processed.

In the yarn feeding step (S20), the screening spandex yarn 10, the intermediate yarn lyocell like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) 20 and the superfine yarn 50-60'S lyocell short fibers 30 are supplied to the feed roller ( 50).

Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) 20 is a fiber in which a high specific gravity functional material is added to polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) having a leaf-shaped cross section. The functional material is a barium sulfate (BaSO _{4 )} is added to the polymerization process of the polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) and is a fiber produced by melt spinning through a nozzle that can form a leaf-shaped cross-section.

At this time, the content of BaSO ₄ added is within 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, in the case of 0.5% by weight or less, the improvement of drape is insignificant, no deep color is expressed, and the content includes 3.0% by weight or more. In this case, problems such as cutting, poor dyeing and deterioration of physical properties may occur in the manufacturing process.

The polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) having such a leaf section and to which a high specific gravity functional material of barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) is added shows a soft and dry touch by the cross-sectional shape of the hetero sectional section. It is excellent in deep color, high specific gravity, and excellent drape, which is similar to the characteristics of a natural fiber Lyocell fiber and is referred to as a Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY).

Spin-Draw Yarn (SDY) is a yarn manufactured by spinning process that integrates the unprocessed manufacturing process and drawing process at the spinning stage, and has a high degree of orientation. Yarn.

The intermediate yarn Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) 20 is used in the range of 50 denier (D) to 60 denier (D).

In the yarn feeding step (S20), the screening, intermediate yarn and weft yarn are loaded on a creel modified to supply three or more yarns and supplied through a yarn guide.

In the prior art, a method of manufacturing a composite workpiece is mainly performed by supplying screening, intermediate yarn, and superfine yarn to the first roller 60 through the feed roller 50 at the same time, and performing stretching and heat treatment.

However, referring to FIG. 1, in the present invention, only the intermediate yarn 20 is stretched and heat treated at the level of the natural draw ratio, and the screening 10 and the super yarn 30 are separate yarn guides to the second roller without stretching and heat treatment. By feeding the second roller 80 directly by the si) is characterized in that the air entangled with the intermediate yarns.

When fabric is manufactured using a composite yarn including intermediate yarns that have been stretched and heat treated, and screening and weaving yarns that have not been stretched and heat treated, the volume and the natural texture are excellent due to the difference in shrinkage rate between the intermediate yarns and the yarns and yarns. It is possible to produce a knitted fabric having excellent elasticity.

In the apostle alignment step (S30), from the feed roller 50, the spandex yarn (10) and the lyocell short fibers (50 to 60'S) of the superfine yarn (30) are directly supplied to the second roller (80). On the other hand, the Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY), which is the intermediate yarn 20, is supplied to the second roller 80 through the first roller 60 and the non-contact heat treatment heater 70, and the second roller 80. ), The apostles of the examination, the middle yarn, and the novice are matched.

Lyocell short fibers are suitable to have a fineness of 50'S to 60'S in consideration of the fineness of the final long / short fiber composite processing. On the other hand, when Lyocell short fibers having a fineness of 50'S or less are used as superfiber, the weight of the fabric is excessively increased and is not suitable for knitting.When yarns of fine fineness of 60'S or more are used, the peeling property increases and the friction is increased. The lint causes the fabric's appearance to be easily damaged.

The intermediate yarn 20 is given a draw ratio of a natural draw ratio range of 1.0 to 1.10 by the first roller 60 and the second roller 80, the temperature of the first roller is 90 to 110 ℃, the non-contact heat treatment temperature is 200-230 degreeC. The lyocell-like polyester partial alignment yarn 20 of the intermediate yarn of 80 to 90 denier fineness is elongated in the apostle alignment step to have a fineness of 50 to 55 denier.

The air entanglement step (S40) is a step of weaving the screening and superheating directly supplied to the stretched and non-contact heat treated intermediate yarn and the second roller through an air entanglement, and is performed through the air nozzle device 100 for general air entanglement. . In the air entanglement step (S40), the air nozzle 100 is positioned between the second roller 80 and the linear speed control roller 90 in order to minimize the tension applied to the yarn by the speed difference on the slope. Is formed.

As shown in FIG. 3, when the linear speed control roller 90 cuts a part of the surface of the second roller 80 (1/2 of the roller width) by using a cutting tool, the cutting portion of the second roller 80 is cut. The diameter of the is reduced, the linear velocity of the composite yarn passing through the linear speed control roller 90 is reduced. The cutting portion whose diameter is reduced by cutting the surface of the second roller 80 is defined as the linear speed control roller 90.

The overfeed is given by the linear speed difference between the second roller 80 and the linear speed control roller 90. In the present invention, the overfeed ratio is given an overfeed in the range of 1.01 to 1.03. By this overfeed rate, yarn tension passing through the air nozzle 100 is temporarily reduced, so that effective air entanglement is possible.

The air nozzle device 100 of the air entanglement step S40 is provided with a solenoid valve 110 that can control the pressure of the supplied air. The solenoid valve 110 may maintain the air pressure at a preset value by a controller (not shown), or may be adjusted to change the air pressure supplied at a predetermined time interval. For example, when the controller (not shown) outputs a signal to increase or decrease the air pressure by several seconds, the solenoid valve adjusts the opening / closing range accordingly so that the air pressure supplied to the air nozzle device may be periodically changed. Alternatively, the air pressure supplied according to the command of the controller may be changed irregularly. In the present invention, by changing the air pressure within the range of 0.8 to 4.0 kg / m ² , to give the air entanglement at a frequency of 400 to 1000 times / SEC, the number of the air entangled formed by this is 20 to 1 per meter It is formed of 60 congestion numbers.

If the pressure of the air nozzle is 0.8 kg / m ² or less, there is a problem caused by too little air entanglement, if more than 4.0 kg / m ² there is a problem that the yarn damage occurs.

Winding step (S50) step in the air entangled lyocell and polyester composite work is wound up to prepare for use in subsequent weaving and knitting process.

Hereinafter, a method of manufacturing a knitted fabric and a woven fabric using the long / short fiber composite processing will be described.

The present invention is wound into a bobbin through a twisting process to give a twist (Twist) within the short-length fiber composite processing within the range 600 ~ 2000TM is manufactured as a yarn for fabric fabric.

Figure 4 is a conceptual diagram showing the change of yarn after dyeing the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange color according to the present invention. The lyocell and polyester composite fabricated according to the present invention is located in the center of the spandex yarn after the winding step, the middle lyocell like polyester yarn and superfine lyocell short fibers form almost uniform bending Since it is configured to have a uniform thickness and uniformity, the knitting and weaving process using a composite yarn can be easily performed.

After this dyeing process, the dyeing process produces fine bends at the center due to the difference in shrinkage rate, the middle yarns have a certain level of curvature, and the superfine lyocell short fibers protrude to the surface with the greatest number of bending characteristics. Excellent hand and natural properties of the fiber are expressed.

The present invention is manufactured as a yarn for fabric manufacturing through a twisting process to give a twist (Twist) within the range of 600 ~ 2000 TM to the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange color. It is manufactured as a fabric by applying a conventional polyester dyeing method of dyeing the fabric produced by weaving or knitting into knitted fabric using the twisted yarn as a warp or weft yarn at 100 to 130 ° C. for 2 to 5 hours. can do.

The fabric or knitted fabric thus dyed has a deep or irregularly dyed site and a lightly dyed site due to the effect of irregular air entanglement given to the composite work in the air entanglement step (S40), resulting in a soft melange effect on the dyed surface. do.

Through the following examples will be described the present invention in detail. This embodiment is to describe in detail using the most preferred embodiment of the present invention to the extent that those skilled in the art can easily implement the technical idea of the present invention, The range is not limited to these examples.

< Example  1>

A span ratio of 2.5 was given to spandex yarn, and the final fineness was stretched to 70 deniers to prepare for screening.The intermediate yarn was then supplied to the feed roller with Lyocell-like polyester spin draw yarn (SDY) 55D / 48F. 60 water ('s) was supplied to a feed roller.

The intermediate yarn Lyocell-like polyester partial alignment yarn (POY) is a partial alignment (POY) by spinning BaS ₄ in the polymerization process and spinning a polyester chip containing 2.5% by weight of the fiber at a spinning speed of 3200 m / min. A polyester partially aligned yarn of 40 denier (D) was prepared and then doubled to prepare an intermediate yarn.

After the intermediate yarns are supplied to the stretching apparatus, the draw ratio between the first roller 60 and the second roller 80 is 1.05, the temperature of the first roller 60 is 100 ° C., and the non-contact heat treatment heater 70 is heat-treated. The temperature is 220 ° C., the temperature of the second roller 80 is room temperature, the obi feed rate of the second roller 80 and the linear velocity control roller 90 in the air entanglement step is 1.02, and the air pressure for the air entanglement is Air entanglement was performed by controlling irregularly at 2.0 to 3.0 kg / cm ² , and wound to prepare a composite work of a total of 200 denier lyocells and polyester.

<Example  2>

The lyocell and polyester composite fabrication was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, except that air entanglement was carried out by irregularly controlling the range of air pressure for air entanglement in Example 1 to 1.5 to 3.5 kg / cm ² .

< Example  3>

The lyocell and polyester composite fabrication was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the air pressure was controlled by irregularly controlling the air pressure range of 0.8 to 4.0 kg / cm ² in Example 1.

(One) Lyocell and  Polyester Of composite processing  Elongation measurement

The fineness of the yarn was measured by weighing 90 M of 1 M of coils in one rotation and converting it to 9,000 M. The strength, elongation and elastic recovery rate were 50 cm / min and 50 cm using an automatic tensile tester (Textechno). The gripping distance of was applied.

TABLE 1

Looking at the Table 1, since the fineness and strength of the composite yarn is not significantly different depending on the strength of the air entanglement, the physical properties of the composite yarn were not significantly changed.

(2) elasticity of fabric, recovery rate of stretch

The elasticity of the fabric was measured 10 times by the measurement method of KSK 0352 5.2.2, and the stretch recovery rate of the fabric was measured 10 times by the method of KSK 0541.

(3) fairness evaluation

Yield (by weight) = Grade 1 output / total output

(4) the degree of melange effect

Prepared by the manufacturer bokhapga construction in accordance with an embodiment with knitted to believe that the "◎" 6 ~ 7 were excellent melange effect if it determines that the sensory test results are excellent melange effect more than eight by ten experts after dyeing to the "○" if it determines that there is a melange effect more than five cases were classified as "△".

TABLE 2

Referring to Table 2, the elasticity, stretch recovery rate, fairness evaluation of the fabric was not significantly different depending on the air pressure fluctuation range in the air entanglement step.

On the other hand, it can be seen that the melange effect expressed after yarn dyeing is higher as the fluctuation range of the supplied air pressure increases.

10: screening
20: intermediate yarn
30: Shooting
40: screening and stretching device
50: feed roller
60: first roller
70: non-contact heat treatment heater
80: second roller
90: linear speed control roller
100: air nozzle
110: solenoid valve
120: winding roller

Claims (5)

A drawing extension step of drawing spandex yarn which is drawn at a draw ratio of 2.5 to a final fineness of 70 deniers;
The feeding step of supplying the stretched spandex yarn to the stretching apparatus with 50 to 60 denier lyocell like polyester spin draw yarn as the intermediate yarn and 50 to 60'S lyocell short fibers as the super yarn.
Stretching and non-contact heat treatment of the intermediate yarn, and alignment of the apostles in the screening and weaving and second roller:
An air entanglement step of drawing and heat-treating the intermediate yarns, screening and weaving yarns by supplying air pressure varying in a range of 0.8 to 4.0 kgf / cm ² to the air nozzles and weaving through air entanglement at a frequency of 400 to 1000 times / second;
A winding-up step of winding up the air entwined composite yarn,
The stretching and non-contact heat treatment step of the intermediate yarn is the draw ratio between the first roller and the second roller is 1.05, the temperature of the first roller is 100 ℃, the non-contact heat treatment temperature is 220 ℃, and the second roller of the air interlocking step The overfeed rate between the linear speed control rollers is 1.02,
The air nozzle is located between the second roller and the linear speed control roller, and adjusts the air pressure in the range of 0.8 to 4.0 kgf / cm ² through the solenoid valve,
The number of air entanglement formed in the air entanglement step is the manufacturing method of the lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange, characterized in that the number of entangled 20 to 60 per meter.
delete delete delete Lyocell and polyester composite processing capable of expressing the melange produced by the method of claim 1.

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