KR101676939B1 - Manufacture of synthetic suede method and thereby made synthetic suede - Google Patents

Manufacture of synthetic suede method and thereby made synthetic suede Download PDF

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KR101676939B1
KR101676939B1 KR1020150002007A KR20150002007A KR101676939B1 KR 101676939 B1 KR101676939 B1 KR 101676939B1 KR 1020150002007 A KR1020150002007 A KR 1020150002007A KR 20150002007 A KR20150002007 A KR 20150002007A KR 101676939 B1 KR101676939 B1 KR 101676939B1
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yarn
ptt
nylon
shrinkage
processing
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KR20160085080A (en
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남택욱
오동기
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남택욱
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0056Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the compounding ingredients of the macro-molecular coating
    • D06N3/0059Organic ingredients with special effects, e.g. oil- or water-repellent, antimicrobial, flame-resistant, magnetic, bactericidal, odour-influencing agents; perfumes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0004Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using ultra-fine two-component fibres, e.g. island/sea, or ultra-fine one component fibres (< 1 denier)
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0009Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using knitted fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02After-treatment
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2211/00Specially adapted uses
    • D06N2211/12Decorative or sun protection articles
    • D06N2211/28Artificial leather

Abstract

인조 스웨이드의 제조방법 및 이에 의해 제조된 인조 스웨이드에 관한 것이다. 본 발명에 따른 인조 스웨이드의 제조는, TPA(Terephthalic acid)나 DMT(dimethyl terephthalate)와 옥수수에서 추출된 1,3-propandiol의 축중합물인 PTT(Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate)섬유의 원사를 준비하는 1단계; PTT 원사를 편직시키는 2단계; 편직된 원사를 전처리하는 3단계; 전처리된 원사에 분산제를 도포하여 유화분산선이 우수해지고 수축성이 향상되도록 하는 4단계; 고수축성을 갖는 원사를 염색하고 후가공하는 5단계;를 포함한다. To a method of manufacturing artificial suede and artificial suede produced thereby. The preparation of artificial suede according to the present invention comprises the steps of preparing a yarn of PTT (Terephthalic acid) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and a PTT (Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate) fiber which is an axial polymer of 1,3-propanediol extracted from corn; A second step of knitting a PTT yarn; A third step of pretreating the knitted yarn; A fourth step of applying a dispersant to the pretreated yarn to improve the emulsification dispersion line and the shrinkability; And dyeing and post-processing the yarn having a high water-condensing property.

Description

인조 스웨이드의 제조방법 및 이에 의해 제조된 인조 스웨이드{Manufacture of synthetic suede method and thereby made synthetic suede}[0001] The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing artificial suede,

본 발명은 인조 스웨이드의 제조에 관한 것으로, 더욱 상세하게는 천연 스웨이드와 같은 감촉과 형태 안정성을 발현할 수 있는 인조 스웨이드의 제조방법 및 이에 의해 제조된 인조 스웨이드에 관한 것이다.
The present invention relates to the production of artificial suede, and more particularly, to a method of manufacturing artificial suede capable of exhibiting texture and shape stability similar to natural suede, and artificial suede produced thereby.

일반적으로 세계 섬유 의류시장은 소득수준 향상 및 라이프스타일 변화에 따라 고급화, 차별화 섬유류 수요가 지속적으로 성장하고 있어 경량화, 고성능 섬유소재 확보를 위한 신기술, 신공정 개발에 관심이 집중되고 있다.In general, the global textile and apparel market has been focusing on the development of new technologies and new processes for lighter weight, high-performance fiber materials, as demand for high-grade and differentiated textiles continues to grow in line with income levels and lifestyle changes.

최근 인공피혁 시장에서 반복되는 패션 트렌드는 미가공한 듯 천연감성 느낌의 원자재(Raw Materiality) 및 섬세한 터치를 강조하는 Fine Decor가 강조되고 있다. Recently, fashion trends repeated in the artificial leather market have emphasized raw materiality (raw material) and fine decor that emphasize delicate touches as if they are raw.

천연피혁의 구조와 감성을 인공적으로 재현하기 위해, 오래전부터 다양한 시도가 이루어지면서 합성피혁으로 발전하여 기능면, 감성면에서 보다 천연피혁에 유사하게 만들기 위하여 인공피혁이 탄생하였으며, 오늘날에는 인공피혁이 가죽에 관련된 영역의 거의 모든 부분을 차지하고 있다. In order to artificially reproduce the structure and sensibility of natural leather, various attempts have been made for a long time and artificial leather was born to make synthetic leather similar to natural leather in terms of function and sensitivity, and today artificial leather It occupies almost every part of the leather-related area.

국내 등록특허 제10-0743988호에는 인공 스웨이드 제조방법이 개시된 바 있다. 이는 스웨이드(Suede) 시트를 형성하는 단계; 스테이플(Staple) 섬유로부터 표면에 기모층을 갖는 부직포를 형성하는 단계; 상기 부직포와 상기 스웨이드 시트를 접합하여 적층 시트를 형성하는 단계; 및 상기 적층 시트를 가열하여 그레인(Grain)을 형성하는 단계를 포함하는 기술이다.Korean Patent No. 10-0743988 discloses a manufacturing method of artificial suede. Forming a suede sheet; Forming a nonwoven fabric having a bristle layer on a surface thereof from staple fibers; Bonding the nonwoven fabric and the suede sheet to form a laminated sheet; And heating the laminated sheet to form a grain.

한편 천연 스웨이드 혹은 인조 스웨이드를 의류에 적용하고 있으나 천연 스웨이드는 세탁 등 취급이 용이하지 못하고, 인조 스웨이드는 염색견뢰도가 극히 불량한 단점이 있다.
On the other hand, natural suede or artificial suede is applied to clothes, but natural suede is not easy to handle such as washing, and artificial suede has a disadvantage that dye fastness is extremely poor.

본 발명은 상기한 종래 기술의 문제점을 해소하기 위해 안출된 것으로, 극세사를 구조적으로 고밀도로 제조하여 폴리우레탄을 처리하지 않고도 천연 스웨이드와 같은 촉감과 형태안정성을 발현할 수 있는 인조 스웨이드의 제조방법 및 이에 의해 제조된 인조 스웨이드를 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.
Disclosure of Invention Technical Problem [8] The present invention has been made in order to solve the problems of the prior art described above, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing artificial suede, which can produce a micro- It is an object of the present invention to provide artificial suede manufactured by the method.

본 발명의 일 실시예는, 원사를 준비하는 1단계; 상기 원사를 편직시키는 2단계; 상기 편직된 원사를 전처리하는 3단계; 상기 전처리된 원사에 분산제를 도포하여 유화분산성이 우수해지고 수축성이 향상되도록 하는 4단계; 상기 수축성이 향상된 원사를 염색하고 후가공하는 5단계;로 이루어지는 인조 스웨이드의 제조방법에 있어서,
상기 제1단계의 원사는 섬도 50데니아 내지 75데니아인 TPA(Terephthalic acid)나 DMT(dimethyl terephthalate)와 옥수수에서 추출된 1,3-propandiol의 축중합물인 PTT(Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate)섬유, 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트/나일론 분할사(PTT/나일론), 나일론/폴리에스터 복합사(N/P) 중 어느 하나의 원사를 사용하고,
상기 제4단계의 수축성향상을 위해 고밀도 수축가공제는 2-페닐 알콜(2-phenyl alcohol)과 벤질 알콜(benzyl alcohol)를 베이스로 하고 유화제와 첨가제를 혼합하여 제조된 분산제를 10% o.w.s.로 농도를 고정하고, 욕비 1:10, 가공온도 120℃, 가공시간 30분의 조건으로 처리되는 것을 특징으로 하는 인조 스웨이드의 제조방법과 관련있다.
One embodiment of the present invention is a method for producing a yarn, comprising the steps of: preparing a yarn; A second step of knitting the yarn; 3) pre-treating the knitted yarn; Applying a dispersant to the pretreated yarn to improve emulsification and dispersibility and improve shrinkability; And dyeing and post-processing the yarn with improved shrinkability, the method comprising the steps of:
The raw material of the first stage is PTT (Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate) fiber which is an axial polymer of TPA (terephthalic acid) or DMT (dimethyl terephthalate) and 1,3-propanediol extracted from corn, having a fineness of 50 denier to 75 denier Yarn of any one of terephthalate / nylon split yarn (PTT / nylon) and nylon / polyester composite yarn (N / P)
In order to improve the shrinkage of the fourth step, the high-density shrinkage agent is prepared by mixing a dispersant prepared by mixing 2-phenyl alcohol and benzyl alcohol with an emulsifier and an additive in a concentration of 10% ows And is processed under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:10, a processing temperature of 120 캜, and a processing time of 30 minutes.

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본 발명에 따르면, 굵기가 다른 이종의 분할형 극세사를 친환경 소재와 조합하여 천연감을 부여하였고, 고밀도 특수가공을 개발 및 적용하여 형태안정성 및 스웨이드 감촉(Suede Feel)을 발현하였으며 폴리우레탄을 사용하지 않으므로 염색가공 후 발생하는 Migration으로 인한 견뢰도 문제를 개선하고 동시에 경량화를 달성할 수 있는 효과가 있다.
According to the present invention, different types of microdivided microspheres having different thicknesses are combined with environmentally friendly materials to give a sense of naturalness, and a high-density special processing is developed and applied to express shape stability and suede feel, and polyurethane is not used There is an effect that the problem of fastness due to migration occurring after dyeing processing can be solved and light weight can be achieved at the same time.

도 1은 본 발명의 일 실시예에 따른 인조 스웨이드의 제조 공정을 나타낸 흐름도,
도 2는 본 발명의 일 실시예에 따른 인조 스웨이드의 제조 공정을 나타낸 예시도.
FIG. 1 is a flowchart illustrating a manufacturing process of an artificial suede according to an embodiment of the present invention.
2 is an exemplary view showing a manufacturing process of artificial suede according to an embodiment of the present invention;

이하 본 발명의 바람직한 실시예를 첨부된 도면을 토대로 상세하게 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

하기에서 설명될 실시예는 본 발명이 속하는 기술분야에서 통상의 지식을 가진 자가 발명을 용이하게 실시할 수 있을 정도로 상세하게 설명하기 위한 것이며, 이로 인해 본 발명의 기술적인 사상 및 범주가 한정되는 것을 의미하지는 않는다.It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory and are intended to provide further explanation of the invention as claimed. It does not mean anything.

또한, 도면에 도시된 구성요소의 크기나 형상 등은 설명의 명료성과 편의상 과장되게 도시될 수 있으며, 본 발명의 구성 및 작용을 고려하여 특별히 정의된 용어들은 사용자, 운용자의 의도 또는 관례에 따라 달라질 수 있고, 이러한 용어들에 대한 정의는 본 명세서 전반에 걸친 내용을 토대로 내려져야 함을 밝혀둔다.
In addition, the sizes and shapes of the components shown in the drawings may be exaggerated for clarity and convenience of explanation, and the terms defined specifically in consideration of the configuration and operation of the present invention may vary depending on the intention or custom of the user, operator It should be noted that the definitions of these terms should be made on the basis of the contents throughout this specification.

첨부된 도면 중에서, 도 1은 본 발명의 일 실시예에 따른 인조 스웨이드의 제조 공정을 나타낸 흐름도, 도 2는 본 발명의 일 실시예에 따른 인조 스웨이드의 제조 공정을 나타낸 예시도이다.
FIG. 1 is a flowchart illustrating a manufacturing process of artificial suede according to an embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is an exemplary view illustrating a manufacturing process of artificial suede according to an embodiment of the present invention.

본 발명의 일 실시예에 따른 인조 스웨이드의 제조는, TPA(Terephthalic acid)나 DMT(dimethyl terephthalate)와 옥수수에서 추출된 1,3-propandiol의 축중합물인 PTT(Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate)섬유의 원사를 준비하는 1단계(S1); PTT 원사를 편직시키는 2단계(S2); 편직된 원사를 전처리하는 3단계(S3); 전처리된 원사에 분산제를 도포하여 유화분산선이 우수해지고 수축성이 향상되도록 하는 4단계(S4); 고수축성을 갖는 원사를 염색하고 후가공하는 5단계(S5)를 포함하여 구성된다.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, a synthetic yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fiber, which is an axial polymer of 1,3-propanediol extracted from terephthalic acid (TPA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) (S1); A second step S2 of knitting a PTT yarn; (S3) of pretreating the knitted yarn; (S4) of applying the dispersing agent to the pretreated yarn to improve the emulsifying dispersion line and to improve shrinkability; (S5) of dyeing and post-processing a yarn having a high water-condensing property.

1단계(S1)의 원사는 PTT/나일론과 N/P 또는 모노 섬유의 혼합물이다. The yarn of step (S1) is a mixture of PTT / nylon and N / P or monofibers.

PTT는 세계적 추세인 저탄소, 녹생성장의 원동력이 될 수 있는 친환경적 소재이며, 부드러운 촉감과, 고 벌크성, 높은 탄성회복률, 내오염성 등 PET와 Nylon의 장점만을 고루 갖추고 있는 소재이다. PTT is an eco-friendly material that can be the driving force of low carbon and green production field which is the global trend. It is a material that has merits of PET and nylon such as soft touch, high bulkability, high elastic recovery rate and stain resistance.

따라서 PET/PTT or Nylon/PTT 복합방사 후에 고수축되는 PTT의 단점이자 특성을 응용하여, 스웨이드 제조시 필수공정인 고수축 공정기술에 응용, 적용한다.
Therefore, it is applied and applied to the high shrinkage process technology, which is an indispensable process in the manufacture of suede, by applying the disadvantages and characteristics of PTT which is highly shrunk after PET / PTT or Nylon / PTT composite spinning.

1단계(S1)의 원사의 적용섬도는 50데니아 내지 75데니아이다. The applied fineness of the yarn in the first step (S1) is from 50 denier to 75 denier.

PTT의 고수축성은 일반적으로 용도전개에 있어 단점으로 지적되고 있으나 이러한 특성을 역으로 응용하여, Suede 제조시 필수공정인 분할/축소 공정기술에 적용하여 PTT/Nylon(75/24) 8분할/축소 공정을 확립한다. The PTT / Nylon (75/24) 8 splitting / shrinking process is applied to the splitting / shrinking process technology which is a necessary process in manufacturing Suede. Establish process.

최적 정련/분할/축소/수세/열처리 공정을 위한 레시피 및 공정설계하고, 연속식 및 배치식 공정의 단계적 검토를 통한 최적 전처리 공정조건 선정한다. Recipe and process design for optimum refining / dividing / shrinking / washing / heat treatment process, and optimum preprocessing process condition by stepwise examination of continuous and batch process are selected.

환경성, 경제성 및 작업성 등을 고려한 공정 확립하고, 각 공정별 실험실 B/T 및 현장적용 테스트하고, 실험실 성능평가 및 현장생산 안정화한다. We will establish a process considering environment, economical efficiency and workability, test each laboratory B / T and field by each process, and evaluate laboratory performance and stabilize on-site production.

PTT/Nylon(75/24) 소재의 Raw Materiality 효과 극대화 및 물성확보를 위한 최적 염색가공 공정기술 개발하여 염색, 가공 및 텀블러 조건 확립하고, Brush 및 Raising M/C을 통한 표면가공한다. Dyeing, processing and tumbler conditions are established by optimizing the dyeing processing process technology to maximize the raw materiality effect of PTT / Nylon (75/24) material and securing physical properties, and surface processing by brushing and Raising M / C.

또한 실험실 B/T 및 현장적용 테스트하고, 실험실 성능평가 및 현장생산 안정화시킨다. It also performs laboratory B / T and field application tests, laboratory performance evaluation and on-site production stabilization.

PET/Nylon 극세사는 PET:Nylon 비율이 7:3을 갖는, 75d/48f 및 50d/48f 9분할 극세사를 사용하였으며, PTT/Nylon은 Dupont사의‘SORONA’ 원료를 가지고 ㈜휴비스에서 생산된 75d/24f를 9분할 극세사(5:5)를 사용하였다.  The PET / Nylon microfiber uses 75d / 48f and 50d / 48f 9 segment microfiber with PET: Nylon ratio of 7: 3. PTT / Nylon uses Dupont 'SORONA' raw material and 75d / 24f (5: 5) were used.

PTT의 고유점도는 0.92Di/g으로 일반적인 PET에 비해 훨씬 높으며, 이는 산업용 고강도 PET의 점도와 유사하나, 이에 비해 낮은 유리전이온도를 가지고 있어 방사조건이 까다로운 특징이 있다.
PTT has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.92Di / g which is much higher than that of general PET, which is similar to the viscosity of industrial high strength PET, but it has a low glass transition temperature and is characterized by severe spinning conditions.

천연감성(Raw Materiality) 느낌을 살리기 위한 니트 이중조직을 설계하였으며, 아래 표에 인터록, 뿐또, 담보루 조직의 공정조건을 나타내었다. The knit double structure was designed to give a sense of raw materiality. The table below shows the process conditions of the interlock, bamboo, and pile fabric.

인터록 조직은 구조성으로 2개의 리브조직이 결합한 것으로도 보여 더블리브라고도 불리우며, 표면의 루프만 보이고, 이면의 루프는 가려지는 구조를 지니고 있다.  The interlock structure is also structurally composed of two ribs joined together, which is also called a double rib, and has a structure in which only the loop on the surface is visible and the loop on the back is shielded.

분또 및 담보루 조직은 인터록에 비해 두터우며, 표면과 이면 사이에 공기층을 확보하고 있는 이중직으로, 분또는 인터록과 바늘배열은 동일하며 튜블러 조직과 인터록 조직을 결합한 조직이라고 볼 수 있다. The balloons and pile roots are thicker than the interlocks, and have a double layer structure with an air layer between the front and back sides. The minute or interlock and needle arrangement are the same and can be regarded as a combination of the tubular structure and the interlocking structure.

분또 조직은 치밀하고 안정성이 크며, 탄력성이 우수한 장점이 있으며, 잔잔한 물결모양으로 루프가 형성되어 고급감을 느낄 수 있다. The balloon structure is compact, stable and has excellent elasticity, and it can feel a sense of quality by forming a loops in a calm wavy shape.

담보루 조직은 사카리바와 유사한 조직으로 사카리바가 바늘을 1단 배열하는 것과 달리 담보루는 2단 배열을 가지며 쿠션지라고도 불리우며, 대개 스판덱스와 교편직하여 스쿠버복, 여성 겨울용 도톰한 추리닝 등을 만드는데 사용되어지는 조직이다. It is similar to Sakariba in that it is similar to Sakariba. Unlike Sakariba, which has a single-step arrangement of needles, it has a two-tiered arrangement and is called cushion. It is usually made of spandex and knitted with a scuba suit. It is the organization that is used.

Figure 112015001478640-pat00001
Figure 112015001478640-pat00001

전처리 가공전 챔버의 수세 및 배수를 철저히 하여, 방사유제 및 편직유제 등 불순물을 완전히 제거하여, 추후 고밀도 수축가공제의 recycle 비율을 높이고 수축력을 일정하게 유지할 수 있도록 하였다.The washing and draining of the chamber before the pretreatment was thoroughly performed to completely remove the impurities such as the radial emulsion and the knitted emulsion so that the recycle ratio of the high density shrinkage agent can be increased and the shrinking force can be maintained constant.

전처리 구간을 통해 분할률을 약 30% 기발현하여, 고밀도 구간에서 수축과 함께 분할을 진행시켜 고수축 효과를 극대화 시킬 수 있다.
Through the preprocessing period, the fractionation rate is about 30%, and it is possible to maximize the high shrinkage effect by progressing the division along with the contraction in the high-density section.

고밀도 수축가공제는 2-페닐 알콜(2-phenyl alcohol)과 벤질 알콜(benzyl alcohol)를 베이스로 하고 유화제 등 기타 첨가제를 혼합하여 제조하였으며, 가공제의 농도 변화에 따라 나일론과 PET 샘플편기로 제작한 원단의 수축률 변화를 확인하여 적정 가공제 및 가공농도를 선정하였다.
The high-density shrinkage agent was prepared by mixing 2-phenyl alcohol and benzyl alcohol with other additives such as emulsifier. The nylon and PET sample were produced by knitting machine according to the concentration of the processing agent. The change of the shrinkage rate of the fabric was confirmed and the optimum processing agent and processing concentration were selected.

나일론은 PET와 달리 고분자 사슬간 강력한 수소결합으로 이루어져 있어, 고밀도 수축가공시 수분과 열에 의해 팽창된 고분자에 수산화기를 지니는 가공제가 침투하여 섬유 고분자와 새로운 수소결합을 형성하게 되면, 섬유고분자 결정이 파괴되고 결합력이 약해지게 된다.Unlike PET, nylon is composed of strong hydrogen bonds between polymer chains. When a processing agent having a hydroxyl group in a polymer expanded by moisture and heat penetrates through a high-density shrinking process to form a new hydrogen bond with a fiber polymer, And the bonding force is weakened.

따라서, 기본적으로 열에 의해 일어나는 수축현상보다 뚜렷한 수축현상이 일어나게 되며, 2가지 고밀도 수축가공제로 테스트해 본 결과, 모두 유사한 결과를 보여 주었으며, PET에 비해 나일론(Nylon)이 높은 수축현상을 보임을 확인하였다.
Therefore, the shrinkage phenomenon is more pronounced than the thermal shrinkage. As a result, it is confirmed that the nylon shrinkage is higher than that of PET. Respectively.

Nylon/PET 및 Nylon/PTT 분할사의 경우, core 부분의 Nylon 수축력이 전체적으로 영향을 주었으며, core가 고수축 됨에 따라 상대적으로 저수축되는 sheath 부분의 PET가 이수축 현상에 의해 추가적인 분할가공이 가능하게 하였다. In the case of Nylon / PET and Nylon / PTT split yarns, the nylon shrinkage force of the core part totally influenced, and as the core shrinks, the PET of the sheath part which is relatively low in shrinkage makes it possible to further split processing by this shrinkage phenomenon .

PET나 Nylon 모두 10% 미만의 가공제 농도에서 섬유의 수축이 급격히 발생하였으며, 환경적 측면과 인체 유해성 측면에서 좀 더 나은 벤질 알콜을 선정하였다. In PET and Nylon, fiber shrinkage occurred at less than 10% of processing agent concentration, and benzyl alcohol was selected for better environmental and human health.

고수축 가공제의 분산성 부족으로 인한 침전현상은 가공제 제조업체와의 협업을 통해 저장안정성이 우수하도록 유화제와 분산제를 정형화(formulation)하여, 기술개발이 진행 되는 동안 동일한 가공효과를 얻을 수 있도록 하였다. The sedimentation phenomenon due to the lack of dispersibility of high shrinkage processing agent is formulated by emulsifying agent and dispersing agent so as to have excellent storage stability through cooperation with the processing agent manufacturer so that the same processing effect can be obtained during the technology development .

따라서, 장기간 보관시 분산안정성이 뛰어나고, 높은 수축특성을 보이는 제품을 선정하기 위해 10% o.w.s.로 농도를 고정하고, 욕비 1:10, 가공온도 120℃, 가공시간 30분으로 수축률 테스트를 진행하였으며, 분산안정성과 원단의 태를 확인하여 고밀도 수축가공제 T1을 선정하였다. Therefore, the shrinkage test was conducted at a fixed concentration of 10% ows, a bath temperature of 1:10, a processing temperature of 120 ° C, and a processing time of 30 minutes in order to select a product exhibiting excellent dispersion stability and long shrinkage characteristics during long- The high density shrinkage rejection T1 was selected by confirming dispersion stability and fabric texture.

고수축 가공으로 인해 편조직에 의한 3차원적 교락구조가 급격히 수축되면서 섬유간 엉킴성이 증가하여, 섬유간 공극이 감소된다.Due to the high shrinkage process, the three - dimensional interlocking structure due to the knitting structure sharply contracts to increase the entanglement between the fibers, and the interfiber porosity decreases.

고밀도 수축가공으로 인하여 코어 부분의 나일론(Nylon)이 급격히 수축되면서, 상대적으로 저수축되는 PET 부분의 루프는 원단표면으로 돌기되어 샌딩(sanding) 공정에서 천연 쉐이드와 같은 감성을 발현시키는데 중요한 요인으로 작용하게 된다. The nylon of the core portion shrinks sharply due to the high-density shrinkage process, and the loops of the relatively low-shrinkage PET portion protrude to the surface of the fabric, which is an important factor in expressing the sensibility as a natural shade in the sanding process .

고수축 가공제의 농도를 변화시켜 최적의 터치감과, PU를 합침 한 쉐이드에서는 가질 수 없는 공기투과성이 우수한 소재를 개발하였으며, 두께, 중량, 수축률 변화 및 태를 확인하여 최적 공정조건을 찾고자 하였다. We have developed a material with excellent air permeability which can not be obtained in shade with optimal touch feeling and PU by varying the concentration of high shrinkage processing agent. We sought to find the optimum process condition by confirming thickness, weight, shrinkage rate and shape.

<PET/Nylon 인터록><PET / Nylon Interlock>

고수축 가공제 농도에 따른 면적수축률 변화를 알아보고, 최적 농도를 선정하기 위해 농도를 달리하여 면적수축률 변화를 체크하여, 그 결과를 아래 표에 나타냄(온도 120℃, 시간 30분)The change of area shrinkage rate was checked by varying the concentration in order to select the optimum concentration. The results are shown in the table below (temperature 120 ° C, time 30 minutes)

고수축 가공제의 농도 변화에 따라 수축률의 변화가 선형적으로 나타났으며, 최종 제품의 용도에 맞추어 수축제의 농도를 결정하고, 가공시간 및 온도는 고정하는 공정조건을 선정하였다. The shrinkage rate changes linearly with the concentration of the high shrinkage agent. The concentration of the shrinkage agent was determined according to the application of the final product, and the process conditions were fixed.

Figure 112015001478640-pat00002
Figure 112015001478640-pat00002

PTT/Nylon의 경우 일정 가공시간 이후에는 변화가 크지 않으므로, 공정시간에 대한 요인은 제외하고 수축가공제의 농도와 공정온도에 변화를 주어, 면적수축률을 확인하였다. In case of PTT / Nylon, there was not much change after a certain processing time. Therefore, except for factors related to the processing time, the area shrinkage rate was confirmed by varying the concentration of the shrinkage agent and the process temperature.

특히 PTT의 경우 열에 의해 수축하는 특성이 강하므로, PET/Nylon에 비해 전처리 공정에서 분할 및 1차 수축가공이 이루어졌으며, 이때 면적수축률은 28.5%에 이르는 것을 확인하였다.
Particularly, the PTT has strong shrinkage characteristics due to heat, so it is confirmed that the shrinkage rate is 28.5% in the pretreatment process compared with PET / Nylon.

PET 극세사를 이용한 의류제품이 증가하고 있는데 섬유가 가늘어질수록 단위중량당 섬유표면적이 증가하기 때문에 염착된 염료가 세탁시 탈착되기 쉽고, 환원세정 후 마무리 열고정이나 후가공시 가해지는 열에 의해 섬유내부에 염착된 염료가 섬유표면으로 빠져나오는 열전이(thermo migration) 현상도 현저히 나타나므로 세탁견뢰도가 나빠지게 되는 결과를 가져온다. PET microfiber is increasing in the number of apparel products. As the fiber tends to increase, the surface area of the fiber per unit weight increases. Therefore, the dyed dye is likely to be desorbed during washing, and after heat treatment, The phenomenon of thermo migration in which the dyed dye leaves the fiber surface is also remarkable, which results in poor washing fastness.

따라서, 본 개발 원단은 염착속도가 빠르고, 고밀도의 원단의 경우 공극이 작아 염료가 섬유사이에 침투하기 어렵기 때문에, 저온 영역에서 승온속도를 낮추고, 교반을 충분히 할 수 있도록 IR 염색기를 세팅하였다. Therefore, in this developed fabric, the dyeing speed was lowered in the low temperature region and the IR dyeing machine was set so that the stirring speed was fast and the pores of the high density fabric were small and the dye was hardly penetrated between the fibers.

또한, 염색가공시 Nylon 복합원단은 섬유내 확산보다도 섬유표면에서의 염료 흡착과 섬유간의 이염이 염색얼룩의 중요한 요인으로 작용하기에, 균염제 및 침투제를 첨가하여 염색을 진행하였다. In dyeing process, dyeing was proceeded by addition of leveling agent and penetrating agent, because dye adsorption on the fiber surface and dye transfer between fibers are important factors for dyeing unevenness.

염료의 선정을 위해 1차년도 사용된 염료는 현장에서 대부분 사용하는 분산염료(Oh Young Industrial. Co., LTD) E type, SE type, S type 염료를 테스트하였다. For the selection of the dyes, the dyes used in the first year were tested for E type, SE type, and S type dyes which are mostly used in the field (Oh Young Industrial Co., LTD).

Figure 112015001478640-pat00003
Figure 112015001478640-pat00003

PET와 PTT는 유사한 염색특성을 보이는 것으로 알려져 있으며, PET에 대한 염색특성을 기존에 많은 연구와 현장작업 DB가 있기에, 1차년도에서는 PTT/Nylon 인터록 원단을 가지고 염료별 염색조건을 확인하였다.
PET and PTT are known to have similar dyeing characteristics. In the first year, PTT / Nylon interlocking fabric was used to identify the dyeing conditions for each dye because there are many researches and field work DBs for dyeing characteristics of PET.

염착곡선측정기(DyeMax-L system, (주)다이텍스엔지니어링)를 이용하여, 염료농도 1 % o.w.f., 욕비 1:15, 분산제 0.5g/l, 침투제 0.5g/l, 버퍼 2g/l의 조건으로 염색프로그램(DTC-6000)을 이용하여 염색하고 실시간 염료의 농도변화를 UV-스펙트로미터(spectrometer)로 분석하여 흡진율을 측정하였다.
1% owf, a bath ratio of 1:15, a dispersing agent of 0.5 g / l, a penetration agent of 0.5 g / l and a buffer of 2 g / l using a dyed curve measuring instrument (DyeMax-L system, Dyeing was performed using a staining program (DTC-6000) and the change in the concentration of the real-time dye was analyzed by a UV-spectrometer to measure the adsorption rate.

한편 스웨이드의 효과를 내고, 제품의 외관과 품위를 최종적으로 결정짓게 되는 기모공정은 크게 침포를 이용한 공정과 브러시나 샌드페이퍼(sand paper)를 이용한 공정으로 나눌 수 있다. On the other hand, the brushed process which makes suede effect and finally determines the appearance and quality of the product can be roughly divided into a process using a cloth and a process using a brush or a sand paper.

기모공정에서의 중요한 인자는 입모밀도, 입모장, 입모의 균일성으로, 입모밀도가 낮으면 제품의 품위가 저하되며, 입모밀도는 기모전 원단의 섬유밀도와 균제성에 의해 영향을 받게 되는 특징이 있다. The important factors in the brick process are the napped density, the uniformity of the napping length and the napping, the lower the napping density, the lower the napping density, and the napping density is influenced by the fiber density and uniformity of the brushed fabric have.

샌드페이퍼의 grain size를 달리하여 1차 및 2차 가공을 시도하였으며, 1차 buffing을 통해 후도를 균일하게 하고, 2차 buffing을 통해 우수한 입모효과를 얻을 수 있도록 하였다. We tried first and second processing by changing the grain size of the sandpaper. The first buffing was done to make the finish uniform, and the second buffing was performed to obtain a good napping effect.

원단의 공급(feeding) 속도, 샌드페이퍼의 회전 속도, 그리고 접촉 면적에 따라 기모 정도를 달리하여 최적의 감성을 발현시키고자 하였다.
We tried to express the best sensibility by varying the degree of brushed depending on the feeding speed of the fabric, the rotating speed of the sandpaper, and the contact area.

비록 본 발명이 상기 언급된 바람직한 실시예와 관련하여 설명되어졌지만, 발명의 요지와 범위로부터 벗어남이 없이 다양한 수정 및 변형이 가능한 것은 당업자라면 용이하게 인식할 수 있을 것이며, 이러한 변경 및 수정은 모두 첨부된 청구의 범위에 속함은 자명하다.
Although the present invention has been described in connection with the above-mentioned preferred embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, It is obvious that the claims fall within the scope of the claims.

S1 : 1단계 S2 : 2단계
S3 : 3단계 S4 : 4단계
S5 : 5단계
S1: Step 1 S2: Step 2
S3: Step 3 S4: Step 4
S5: Step 5

Claims (4)

원사를 준비하는 1단계; 상기 원사를 편직시키는 2단계; 상기 편직된 원사를 전처리하는 3단계; 상기 전처리된 원사에 분산제를 도포하여 유화분산성이 우수해지고 수축성이 향상되도록 하는 4단계; 상기 수축성이 향상된 원사를 염색하고 후가공하는 5단계;로 이루어지는 인조 스웨이드의 제조방법에 있어서,
상기 제1단계의 원사는 섬도 50데니아 내지 75데니아인 TPA(Terephthalic acid)나 DMT(dimethyl terephthalate)와 옥수수에서 추출된 1,3-propandiol의 축중합물인 PTT(Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate)섬유, 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트/나일론 분할사(PTT/나일론), 나일론/폴리에스터 복합사(N/P) 중 어느 하나의 원사를 사용하고,
상기 제4단계의 수축성향상을 위해 고밀도 수축가공제는 2-페닐 알콜(2-phenyl alcohol)과 벤질 알콜(benzyl alcohol)를 베이스로 하고 유화제와 첨가제를 혼합하여 제조된 분산제를 10% o.w.s.로 농도를 고정하고, 욕비 1:10, 가공온도 120℃, 가공시간 30분의 조건으로 처리되는 것을 특징으로 하는 인조 스웨이드의 제조방법.
Step 1 for preparing the yarn; A second step of knitting the yarn; 3) pre-treating the knitted yarn; Applying a dispersant to the pretreated yarn to improve emulsification and dispersibility and improve shrinkability; And 5) dyeing and post-processing the yarn with improved shrinkability. In the method for producing artificial suede,
The raw material of the first step may be PTT (Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate) fiber which is an axial polymer of TPA (terephthalic acid) or DMT (dimethyl terephthalate) and 1,3-propanediol extracted from corn, having a fineness of 50 denier to 75 denier Yarn of any one of terephthalate / nylon split yarn (PTT / nylon) and nylon / polyester composite yarn (N / P)
In order to improve the shrinkage of the fourth step, the high-density shrinkage agent is prepared by mixing a dispersant prepared by mixing 2-phenyl alcohol and benzyl alcohol with an emulsifier and an additive in a concentration of 10% ows And is processed under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:10, a processing temperature of 120 캜, and a processing time of 30 minutes.
삭제delete 삭제delete 제1항에 기재된 제조방법에 의해 제조된 것을 특징으로 하는 인조 스웨이드.An artificial suede produced by the manufacturing method according to claim 1.
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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5798433A (en) 1997-02-12 1998-08-25 Zimmer Aktiengesellschaft Process for production of polypropylene terephthalate
KR101198941B1 (en) * 2012-05-31 2012-11-09 주식회사 엠엔제이코퍼레이션 Non-urethane Artificial Leather And Method Of Manufacturing The Same
KR101307335B1 (en) * 2010-11-11 2013-09-10 웨이렌 탕 Superfine fibers artificial leather and method of fabricating the same
KR101408012B1 (en) 2011-06-20 2014-06-18 주식회사 엠엔제이코퍼레이션 Artificial Leather Using Non-urethane Resin

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5798433A (en) 1997-02-12 1998-08-25 Zimmer Aktiengesellschaft Process for production of polypropylene terephthalate
KR101307335B1 (en) * 2010-11-11 2013-09-10 웨이렌 탕 Superfine fibers artificial leather and method of fabricating the same
KR101408012B1 (en) 2011-06-20 2014-06-18 주식회사 엠엔제이코퍼레이션 Artificial Leather Using Non-urethane Resin
KR101198941B1 (en) * 2012-05-31 2012-11-09 주식회사 엠엔제이코퍼레이션 Non-urethane Artificial Leather And Method Of Manufacturing The Same

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