KR101902797B1 - Method for manufacturing the stretchable warp knitting fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric for garments and warp knitted fabric thereof, wherein flexibility is generated by preventing damage to Spandex. More specifically, the method for manufacturing 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric for garments comprises: a first process for knitting warp knitted fabric which is knitted by guide bar L1 and L2, which form a ground tissue, and guide bar L3 and L4, which form a pile tissue, while the pile tissue L3 or L4 is a front side or a rear side with respect to the ground tissue as an axis; a second process for dry-setting the knitted fabric by performing thermal treatment for the knitted fabric with hot air in a temperature condition of 190-210°C after the first process; a third process for forming napping by treating the dry-set fabric in a napping line with a napping machine by 10-14 times of napping; a fourth process of continuously performing a double polishing process for cutting and processing the external appearance of piles, which are generated by napping and are irregular and are not neat, into a regular and uniform length to become beautiful, by 2-3 times and then a sharing process one time after the third process; and a fifth process of performing low-temperature dyeing with a low-temperature dispersion dye after finishing the fourth process.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0001] The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a stretchable warp knitting fabric,

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a 4-bar stretch warp knitted fabric for clothing and a warp knit fabric for the same, and more particularly to a 4-bar warp knit structure designing and knitting technique for clothing and a heat treatment, brushed, A method of manufacturing a 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric for clothes which can be applied to outdoor clothing and casual clothes which require lighter weight and stretch property by providing post-processing technology, And a warp knitted fabric.

Flexible fabrics have been growing rapidly due to their excellent elasticity, ventilation, flexibility and wrinkle stability. They are very likely to grow in the future and can be produced for clothing such as lingerie, shirts, dresses, In recent years, interest in lining, home use, industrial use, and medical use has increased in addition to clothing.

It is important that the guide bar is used as a guide bar that makes a sudden movement more than a needle. The guide bar has a number of needles or a number of inclined feeders, which feeds all the needles at a ratio of 1: 1 at a time, Has superior moisture permeability, softness, lightness, drape and smoothness because it is much faster than the circular knitting machine and has porosity. However, it is more compact than the above knitted fabric and has low elasticity and flexibility.

In spite of the fact that these bristles are not only used for clothing but also used as important items in everyday life products, the bristles that have been commercialized up until now have been limited to stretchability, There was a limit to apply.

Spandex application is inevitable in order to maximize the stretch property in warp knit and round bristle materials. However, due to the characteristics of the brass process, the spandex is refused during the production process and the value as a product tends to be lowered. In spite of the fact that Spandex is applied to the back yarn at the design stage, the material is produced by brushed the front face. However, there is a difficulty in the process such as low productivity to commercialize and there has been no case of combining Spandex with double brushed material.

In recent years, demand for brushed fabrics has diversified in demand and applications, and the demand for outdoor wear for apparel, living room stools, toy legends, etc. is rapidly expanding. However, in the case of large companies selling synthetic fiber yarns, However, there is a disruption in the supply and demand of yarn, and not only cost reduction in production process but also development of process and product capable of high sensitivity and high value are needed.

Therefore, it is necessary to develop a method of manufacturing a warp knitting product which can be applied to outdoor products (jacket, pants, etc.) for clothes by not only living products to which the existing brushed material is mainly applied, but also high quality touch feeling, warmth and stretchability .

Korean Patent Registration No. 10-0891447. Korean Patent Registration No. 10-0369770.

In the case of existing double-sided brushed material, spandex was cut in the bristles during the brass process, resulting in poor productivity and spandex damage of 3 to 6%, resulting in poor elasticity and poor productivity.

Accordingly, in the present invention, the design of a 4-bar, which is not a 3-bar structure, which is a conventional double-sided bristle structure, prevents the damage of the spandex and provides a flexible fabric exhibiting stretchability.

In consideration of the thermal characteristics of Spandex, the present invention adopts a low-temperature process as compared with the conventional process in the dry-setting process during the brass process, and accordingly, the brass wheel speed and speed The present invention provides a high-quality warp knitting fabric which has a stretch property and is resistant to wear and tear.

A method of manufacturing a 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric for clothes according to the present invention, which has solved the problems described above, is knitted by guide bars L1 and L2 forming a ground structure and guide bars L3 and L4 forming a file structure, Polyester DTY 65D / 192F is used as L1 forming the ground structure, L2 is used as Spandex 80D 6% + Polyester SD 50D / 24F, L3 and L4 are fabricated by using a polyester SD 50D / 24F to knit a warp knitted fabric having L3 or L4 forming the pile structure as the front surface or back surface of the ground structure as an axis;
A second step of subjecting the knitted fabrics after the first process to a heat setting by hot air at a temperature condition of 190 to 210 ° C and performing dry setting;
A third step of processing bristles having a dry density of 240 to 250 Gr / m 2 and a pile length of 3 to 5 mm by treating the dry fabricated fabric with a bristle line from a bristle line to a bristle number of 10 to 14 times;
After the third process, a double polishing process is performed to cut irregularities and unfavorable appearance of the file caused by bristle to a regular and constant length
The cylinder rotation speed is 120 to 150 DEG C, the revolution speed is 1,000 to 3,000 times per minute, and the process is repeated 2 to 3 times; And
After the fourth step is completed, the temperature is raised at a heating rate of 2 占 폚 / min, the dyeing temperature is 130 占 폚 5 占 폚 for 40 to 50 minutes and gradually cooled to 60 占 5 占 폚 at a rate of 2 占 폚 / And a fifth step of dyeing with a low temperature dispersion dye under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:10, a buffer of 0.2 g / L and a dispersing agent of 0.2 g / L.

delete

delete

delete

delete

delete

delete

delete

delete

Here, the third step may be a step of rotating the CP by 15% (3000 rpm), reverse rotation (P) by 10-20% (10-20% / 3,000 rpm) A first brushed process at a working speed of 20M / min. (1,000 RPM); (20% / 3000 rpm), reverse rotation (P) 20 ~ 30% (20 ~ 30% / 3,000 rpm) and a speed of 15% speed 20M / Min 1,000 RPM) under the working conditions of the second bristle.

delete

delete

delete

In the fifth step, the temperature is raised at a heating rate of 2 캜 / min, the dyeing temperature is 130 짹 5 캜 for 40 to 50 minutes, and gradually cooled to 60 賊 5 캜 at a rate of 2 캜 / The conditions are as follows: a bath ratio of 1:10, a buffer of 0.2 g / L, and a dispersant of 0.2 g / L.

delete

The warp knitted fabric provided according to the method of manufacturing the 4-Bay stretch warp knitted fabric for clothes provided in the present invention is a double-sided brushed material lacking the existing stretch property, unlike the jacket, which is applied only to clothes, It can be applied to a variety of clothes such as pants, and it is expected that the applicable market will be expanded.

In addition, although the fabric of the present invention provided according to the present invention is a highly sensitive / functional material that has a constant need for consumers, there is no case developed so far, and when the development is completed, the material is differentiated, It has the effect of securing technological competitiveness in the outdoor material market and widening the technology gap with the latter countries.

In addition, the manufacturing method provided in the present invention maximizes the stretchability by designing the spandex in the L1 direction as a constituent of the existing ground structure, and establishes the detailed conditions so that the spandex is not dropped in the brushed, , It is possible to construct a foundation capable of producing high-quality materials that are both brushed in both directions while having elasticity.

Figures 1 and 2 are photographs of a sample of a warp knitted fabric made according to one embodiment of the present invention after dyeing.
3 is a 4-Bar organization diagram of an L1-L4 configuration according to the present invention.
4 to 6 are front / side view micrographs of the number of bristles according to an experiment of the present invention.
Figure 7 is a photograph of a prototype produced in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to preferred embodiments.

The present invention relates to a 4-bar warp knitting structure for clothes, a knitting technique and a warp knitting fabric, which are provided with heat treatment, brushed, dyed, The present invention provides a method of manufacturing a 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric for clothes which can be applied to outdoor clothing and casual clothes that require activity as a material, and a warp knitted fabric thereof.

A method for manufacturing a 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, which is achieved by the above-mentioned object, comprises knitting a guide bar (L1, L2) forming a ground structure and a guide bar (L3, L4) A first step of knitting a warp knitted fabric in which the pile fabric L3 or L4 has a front surface or a back surface around the ground structure;

A second step of subjecting the knitted fabrics after the first process to a heat setting by hot air at a temperature condition of 190 to 210 ° C and performing dry setting;

A third step of forming the bristles by processing the dry fabricated fabric 10 to 14 times from the brushed line to the bristle machine;

After the third step, a double polishing process is performed twice or three times at a temperature of 140 ° C to treat irregularities and irregular appearance of the pile caused by bristles to a regular and constant length, and then the shirring process is performed once ; And

And a fifth step of low-temperature dyeing with a low-temperature dispersion dye after the fourth step is completed.

According to the present invention, Polyester DTY 65D / 192F is used for L1 forming the ground structure used in the first step, L2 is 6% of Spandex 80D + Polyester SD 50D / 24F is used for knitting. 6% of the spandex 80D means that the spandex is composed of 6% of the total weight of the yarns constituting the L2.

In this case, it is preferable that the L1 is a DTY yarn having a single yarn fineness of 65 to 75 denier, and L2 is knitted by supplying both polyester and span-Tex simultaneously, and the spandex and polyester are mixed in a ratio of 2: 5: 1 by weight. The configuration of the spandex and the polyester is such that a spandex yarn for imparting elasticity to the existing file fabric is applied, and when the configuration ratio of the L2 is out of the threshold value, there is a problem that the fabric has no force or stiffness. More preferably, it is most preferable that the composition ratio of the spandex includes (0.8) to (1) wt% with respect to the total weight of the spandex.

According to the present invention, L3 and L4 forming the pile fabric in the first step are characterized by knitting using Polyester SD 50D / 24F. Preferably, the polyester SD has a single yarn fineness of 50 to 75 denier. The reason for this is to increase the mechanical strength of the final product, and when it exceeds the above-mentioned threshold value, there is a problem that the fabric is not stiff or stiff.

According to the present invention, after the fifth step, the emulsion processing and the width processing according to the dewatering operation after dyeing can be further included. Preferably, the emulsion processing step is performed by subjecting the emulsion composed of 2% bristle softening agent, 1% wetting agent softening agent and 1% discharging agent to a subtracting treatment and a width working condition of 60 to 80 inches / 180 to 210 ° C.

According to the present invention, preferably, the third step is a step of rotating 15% of CP (count rate) / 3000 rpm of rotation (CP) and 10-20% (10-20% / 3,000 rpm) of pile rotation, , First brushed at a working speed of 20M / min. (1,000 RPM) with a tension of 15%; (20% / 3000 rpm), reverse rotation (P) 20 ~ 30% (20 ~ 30% / 3,000 rpm) and a speed of 15% speed 20M / Min 1,000 RPM) for the first time. Here,% of the above contents is a unit indication indicating the reduction ratio of the rpm, which rotates at 3,000 revolutions per minute.

According to the present invention, the fourth step is a step for beautifully cutting and cutting irregularities and unfavorable appearance of a file caused by bristle to a regular and constant length. Preferably, the cylinder rotation speed is from 120 to 150 ° C It is preferable to repeat the process at a rate of 1,000 times to 3,000 times per minute. More preferably, the double polishing process is repeated at a temperature of 140 占 폚 for 2 to 3 times, and then the annealing process is preferably carried out one time in succession.

According to the present invention, the third step is characterized in that the bristles have a density of 240 to 250 Gr / m 2 and a pile length of 3 to 5 mm.

According to the present invention, preferably, the fifth step is a step of raising the temperature at a heating rate of 2 캜 / min, proceeding at a dyeing temperature of 130 짹 5 캜 for 40 to 50 minutes, gradually cooling to 60 5 캜 at a rate of 2 캜 / The dyeing conditions are as follows: a bath ratio of 1:10, a buffer of 0.2 g / L, and a dispersing agent of 0.2 g / L.

According to the method of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric provided according to the present invention described above, it is possible to provide a warp knitted fabric securing the stretchability.

Hereinafter, a method for manufacturing a 4-Bay stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following experimental examples. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is not limited to the disclosed embodiments, but, on the contrary, is intended to cover various modifications and equivalent arrangements included within the spirit and scope of the appended claims. .

The yarn conditions and the number of yarns for the 4-bar structure are determined, and 4-Bay stretch yarn fabrics of the 4-bar structure are subjected to the following yarns, The knitted fabric was prepared by weaving according to the 4-Bar organization chart.

<Yarn condition>

L1: Polyester DTY 65/192

L2: Spandex 80D 6% + Polyester SD 50/24

L3: Polyester SD 50/24

L4: Polyester SD 50/24

At this time, L1 and L2 form a ground structure, and L3 and L4 form a file structure.

The knitted fabrics were heat-treated at 190 ° C and 210 ° C with hot air to adjust the temperature so as not to affect the spandex.

The dry-set fabric was brushed 14 times and brushed to a length of 3 mm and a length of 5 mm. Brushed, and then subjected to a double polishing process two to three times at a temperature of 140 占 폚, and then a single sharing process was performed successively.

At this time, the formation of the saliva bristles is carried out at a rate of 15% rotation (CP; count pile) 15% / 3000 rpm, 10 ~ 20% (10-20% / 3,000 rpm) A first brushed process at a working speed of 20M / min. (1,000 RPM); (20% / 3000 rpm), reverse rotation (P) 20 ~ 30% (20 ~ 30% / 3,000 rpm) and a speed of 15% speed 20M / Min 1,000 RPM) was applied to form brushed bristles.

After completion of the double polishing and shirring process, the fabric was dyed with a low-temperature dispersion dye in a dyeing machine, and then subjected to post-processing in a conventional manner to prepare samples.

At this time, the dyeing was performed by raising the temperature at a heating rate of 2 ° C / min, gradually cooling the dyeing temperature to 130 ± 5 ° C for 40 to 50 minutes, and then to 60 ± 5 ° C at a rate of 2 ° C / min, A bath ratio of 1:10, a buffer of 0.2 g / L, and a dispersing agent of 0.2 g / L.

The conditions of each sample prepared as described above and the dyes used are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. Photographs of the front and back sides of the fabric after dyeing the samples according to Tables 1 and 2 above are shown in Figures 1 and 2. At this time, the samples were indicated as # 1, # 2 ... # 30, respectively.

1 and 2, the shape of the front side is a photograph of the upper row, and the shape of the rear side is a photograph of the lower side.

No. Dry Setting Brushed  Number of times File length Color #One 190 ℃ 14 times 3mm Yellow #2 190 ℃ 14 times 3mm Red # 3 190 ℃ 14 times 3mm Blue #4 190 ℃ 14 times 3mm Navy # 5 190 ℃ 14 times 3mm Black # 6 210 ℃ 14 times 3mm Yellow # 7 210 ℃ 14 times 3mm Red #8 210 ℃ 14 times 3mm Blue # 9 210 ℃ 14 times 3mm Navy # 10 210 ℃ 14 times 3mm Black # 11 190 ℃ 14 times 5mm Yellow # 12 190 ℃ 14 times 5mm Red # 13 190 ℃ 14 times 5mm Blue # 14 190 ℃ 14 times 5mm Navy # 15 190 ℃ 14 times 5mm Black # 16 210 ℃ 14 times 5mm Yellow # 17 210 ℃ 14 times 5mm Red # 18 210 ℃ 14 times 5mm Blue # 19 210 ℃ 14 times 5mm Navy # 20 210 ℃ 14 times 5mm Black

No. Dry Setting Brushed  Number of times File length Color # 21 190 ℃ 7 times 3mm Yellow # 22 190 ℃ 7 times 3mm Red # 23 190 ℃ 7 times 3mm Blue # 24 190 ℃ 7 times 3mm Navy # 25 190 ℃ 7 times 3mm Black # 26 190 ℃ 7 times 5mm Yellow # 27 190 ℃ 7 times 5mm Red # 28 190 ℃ 7 times 5mm Blue # 29 190 ℃ 7 times 5mm Navy # 30 190 ℃ 7 times 5mm Black

Table 1 shows the samples of the warp knitted fabric according to the present invention. Table 2 shows comparative samples for comparison according to the difference in the number of brushed yarns. Comparison between the sample numbers 1 to 5 and # 11 to 15 in Table 1 .

The dyes used to implement the colors applied in Tables 1 and 2 and the dyeing conditions thereof were prepared by using the low temperature dispersion dyes shown in Table 3 below

division Color Recipe One Yellow Yellow GFS 200% 1.0% .o.w.f. 2 Red Red S-3FW 1.0% .o.w.f. 3 Blue Blue S-2G 1.0% .o.w.f.
4 Navy Yellow GFS 200% 0.11% .owf
Red S3FW 0.28% .owf
Navy / Blue 2GLS 220% 1.5% .owf 5 Black Black S SFO 300% 4.0% .o.w.f.

The dyeing conditions according to the dye recipe of Table 3 were performed as shown in FIG.

The physical properties of each of the samples prepared in Table 1 were analyzed and the results are shown in Tables 4 to 7 below. Tables 4 to 7 show the results of fastness analysis by temperature.

The results of the physical properties of the samples of Table 2 prepared for comparison of the physical properties of the samples of Table 1 and the number of bristles are shown in Tables 8 and 9 below.

Tables 4 to 7 show that the number of brushed yarns is 14 times and that of Tables 8 and 9 is 7, so that the difference in the fastness due to the difference in the number of brushed yarns is insignificant. However, as shown in FIGS. 4 to 6, it was confirmed that the samples # 1 to # 5 and # 11 to # 15 to which bristles were applied 14 times were superior to the samples # 21 to # 30 applied 7 times. It was confirmed that there is a big difference even in actual touch feeling.

Meanwhile, the physical properties according to temperature in Table 1 were analyzed, and the results are shown in Table 10 below. The elasticity recovery rate and the dimensional change rate were measured by temperature. The results were averaged and the fraction was cut off.

division Elasticity Recovery Rate (%) Dimensional change ratio (%) Wale Course Wale Course 190 ℃ 93 89 -0.5 -0.5 210 ℃ 94 75 -0.5 -0.5

As can be seen from the results of Table 10, the results of analysis of various fastnesses (washing, water, sweat, friction, sunlight, etc.) as shown in Tables 4 to 7 show only difference in color, And 210 ° C is better for the other elasticity and dimensional change rate. However, it is considered that the application is suitable for the field considering the productivity.

Based on the data obtained from the above-mentioned experiments, prototypes were produced by proceeding to Navy, which is rich in color for the objectivity of all the fastness prototypes. The conditions are shown in Table 11 below, and the measurement results of the properties are shown in Table 12 below.

No. Dry Setting Brushed  Number of times File length Color Prototype 01 190 ℃ 14 times 3mm Navy Prototype 02 190 ℃ 14 times 5mm Navy

division Fading color Fading color Acetate Cotton Nylon PET Acrylic Wool


city
My
Width

One Laundry 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 water 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 sweat acid 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 alkali 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 hemp
Good key 4-5 Wet 4-5 daylight 4 or more Burst strength 502.234 weight 260.9 Shindo 32.3 / 210.1 Elastic recovery rate 94/49


city
My
Width

2 Laundry 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 water 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 sweat acid 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 alkali 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 hemp
Good key 4-5 Wet 4 daylight 4 or more Burst strength 498.873 weight 282.3 Shindo 42.3 / 182.1 Elastic recovery rate 87/55

As shown in Table 12, the spandex contained more than 8% by weight of spandex in the brushed fabric, and the elasticity was imparted to the brushed fabric, and the washing, water, sweat, friction and light fastness were same as those of the existing product, And it is possible to provide a fabric suitable for outdoor use.

Claims (10)

delete L1 is formed by guide bars L1 and L2 forming a ground structure and guide bars L3 and L4 forming a file structure and L1 forming a ground structure is made of polyester DTY 65D / 192F, L2 is Spandex 80D 6% + Polyester SD 50D / 24F and L3 and L4 forming the pile structure are made of Polyester SD 50D / 24F, A first step of knitting a warp knitted fabric having L3 or L4 forming the front surface or back surface of the ground structure as an axis;
A second step of subjecting the knitted fabrics after the first process to a heat setting by hot air at a temperature condition of 190 to 210 ° C and performing dry setting;
A third step of processing bristles having a dry density of 240 to 250 Gr / m 2 and a pile length of 3 to 5 mm by treating the dry fabricated fabric with a bristle line from a bristle line to a bristle number of 10 to 14 times;
After the third step, the double polishing process, which cuts irregularities and irregular appearance of the pile caused by bristle to a regular and constant length, is repeated at a temperature of 120 to 150 ° C at a cylinder rotation speed of 1,000 to 3,000 times per minute The second step is carried out two to three times, and then the sharing step is carried out one time in succession; And
After the fourth step is completed, the temperature is raised at a heating rate of 2 占 폚 / min, the dyeing temperature is 130 占 폚 5 占 폚 for 40 to 50 minutes and gradually cooled to 60 占 5 占 폚 at a rate of 2 占 폚 / The fifth step of dyeing with a low temperature dispersion dye under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:10, a buffer of 0.2 g / L and a dispersing agent of 0.2 g / L
Wherein the stretchable warp knit fabric is made of a synthetic resin.
delete L1 is formed by guide bars L1 and L2 forming a ground structure and guide bars L3 and L4 forming a file structure and L1 forming a ground structure is made of polyester DTY 65D / 192F, And L2 is a mixture of spandex and polyester in a weight ratio of 2: 1 to 5: 1, and the composition ratio of the spandex is 0.8 to 1 And L3 and L4 forming the pile structure are made of Polyester SD 50D / 24F, and L3 or L4 forming the pile structure is used as a front surface Or a back side;
A second step of subjecting the knitted fabrics after the first process to a heat setting by hot air at a temperature condition of 190 to 210 ° C and performing dry setting;
A third step of processing bristles having a dry density of 240 to 250 Gr / m 2 and a pile length of 3 to 5 mm by treating the dry fabricated fabric with a bristle line from a bristle line to a bristle number of 10 to 14 times;
After the third step, the double polishing process, which cuts irregularities and irregular appearance of the pile caused by bristle to a regular and constant length, is repeated at a temperature of 120 to 150 ° C at a cylinder rotation speed of 1,000 to 3,000 times per minute The second step is carried out two to three times, and then the sharing step is carried out one time in succession; And
After the fourth step is completed, the temperature is raised at a heating rate of 2 占 폚 / min, the dyeing temperature is 130 占 폚 5 占 폚 for 40 to 50 minutes and gradually cooled to 60 占 5 占 폚 at a rate of 2 占 폚 / The fifth step of dyeing with a low temperature dispersion dye under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:10, a buffer of 0.2 g / L and a dispersing agent of 0.2 g / L
Wherein the stretchable warp knit fabric is made of a synthetic resin.
delete The method according to claim 2 or 4,
The third step may be performed at a speed of 15% (CP), 15-20% (3,000 rpm), and 20% of speed (15% / 3000 rpm) / Min. (1,000 RPM); (20% / 3000 rpm), reverse rotation (P) 20 ~ 30% (20 ~ 30% / 3,000 rpm) and a speed of 15% speed 20M / Min 1,000 RPM). The method of manufacturing the 4-bar stretchable warp knitted fabric for clothing according to claim 1, delete delete delete delete

Images