KR101193630B1 - Bath-One Dyeing Process Of Composition Fabrics Containing Silk - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a one-bath dyeing processing method of a composite fabric containing silk, while using a polyester yarn that can be dyed at low temperature and normal pressure together with a silk yarn to solve problems in dyeing, and at the same time dyeing and thickening with one bath dyeing. It is to provide a one-bath dyeing processing method of a silk-containing composite fabric that can obtain excellent dyeing fastness in all.

Description

1 Dyeing Process Of Composition Fabrics Containing Silk

The present invention relates to a one-bath dyeing processing method of a silk-containing composite knitted fabric, and a method of dyeing using a polyester yarn which can be dyed even at low temperature and normal pressure together with a silk yarn.

Recently, with increasing interest in natural materials, natural fiber materials such as silk and cotton are in the spotlight, and the production of blended products produced by combining these natural fibers has been actively performed.

Even in the recent trend of clothing, the use of various composite materials rather than a single material overcomes the shortcomings of a single material and satisfies various consumer sentiments.

In the case of silk, composite materials with various different fibers have been developed to increase functionality and practicality. In order to develop blended yarns and blended fabrics that make up for the disadvantages of silk's morphological instability, difficult handling and storage, etc., while taking advantage of silk's soft touch, beautiful luster, moisture absorption and moisture resistance, heat retention, drape and flexibility. The research is active.

Among synthetic fibers, polyester fibers are most similar in terms of physical properties such as specific gravity, gloss, and touch of silk.However, when blending both fibers because dyeing / processing conditions are different from those of silk, polyester fiber is dyed at high temperature / high pressure. In order to secure color and color fastness, silk has a problem of yellowing at high temperature and loss of unique touch and gloss when processed under such conditions.

In order to solve this problem, a method of dyeing stepwise using acid dyes and disperse dyes in two baths was used. However, energy and cost increased, and dye transfer phenomenon and color fastness occurred.

In order to solve the problem of two-bath dyeing, Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 10-2009-0124575 provides a dyeing method of dyeing one polyester at normal pressure using a disperse dye and an acid dye in a polyester mixed silk fabric. There was a problem that it is difficult to obtain excellent dyeing fastness in both biliary and thick salts during the 1 bath dyeing.

Therefore, in the present invention, while using a polyester yarn that can be dyed at low temperature and atmospheric pressure with a silk yarn, while solving the problems in dyeing, a silk-containing composite that can obtain excellent dyeing fastness in both dyeing and thick salts in one bath dyeing It is a technical task to provide a one-bath dyeing processing method for knitted fabrics.

Therefore, according to the present invention, a pretreatment step of refining a composite knitted fabric with silk and atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarn and setting the width of the knitted fabric at 90 ~ 110 ℃, dyeing process in a dye bath and drying and heat treatment in tenter In the dyeing and processing method of the silk-containing composite knitted fabric of the post-processing step,
The dyeing process is 95 ~ 100 ℃ in a salt bath mixed with reactive dyes, disperse dyes and CaCl ₂ 8 ~ 10% owf and 0.5 ~ 1% by weight of acetic acid, 1 ~ 2% owf leveling agent (leveling agent) 1 bath dye under normal pressure;
The post-processing process is to be processed by drying and heat treatment under the conditions of the tenter temperature 150 ~ 160 ℃, tenter speed 30 ~ 40m / mim,
The composite knitted fabric is silk: atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarn: polyurethane is a composite knitted fabric in a ratio of 50: 47: 3,
The atmospheric dyeing-type polyester covering yarn is provided with a one-bath dyeing processing method of the silk-containing composite knitted fabric, characterized in that the atmospheric salt-forming polyester yarn is covered around the core spandex yarn.

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Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention relates to a dyeing processing method of a knitted fabric composited with silk and polyester yarn, and more particularly, to a method of dyeing silk and polyester yarn in one bath at a time unlike the conventional two-bath dyeing processing method. .

First, a pretreatment step of refining a composite knitted fabric with silk and atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarn and setting the width of the knitted fabric at 90 to 110 ℃. After refining the composite knitted fabric to set the width of the knitted fabric at 90 ~ 110 ℃ to prevent kinking, wrinkles, non-uniform shrinkage, staining, etc. that may occur during the dyeing process.

The atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarn can be used that is covered with atmospheric salt-type polyester yarn around the spandex yarn, the core, it is possible to improve the elasticity of the final fabric by adding a unique elastic force of spandex.

After the pretreatment step, a dyeing step is performed, and a dyestuff containing a reactive dye, a disperse dye, and CaCl ₂ 8-15% owf, 0.5-1% by weight of acetic acid, and a leveling agent 1-2% owf are mixed. Prepare.

The dyeing process is performed by dyeing the composite knitted fabric in the salt bath at 95-100 ° C. under normal pressure, and containing CaCl ₂ 8-15% owf in the salt bath to increase directness with the fiber of the reactive dye to dye not only pale colors but also deep colors. This is possible. In general, when dyeing vegetable fibers such as cotton and rayon using a reactive dye, using a forget-me-not, etc. in the dye bath to improve the directness of the dye to the fiber and to improve the fastness. However, due to the difference in fiber structure, animal fibers such as wool and silk have little effect on color and color fastness when using forget-me-not (Na ₂ SO ₄ ), and when used with CaCl ₂ , it increases the directness with the fiber of reactive dyes. Dyeing and good fastnesses can be obtained. In addition, in order to dye reactive dyes with vegetable fibers, a large amount of alkali such as soda ash is used.However, in the case of silk dyeing, the pH of the salt bath uses glacial acetic acid to fix fibers and dyes under acidic conditions, so that the fastness in coloration is strong. Is excellent.

The use of modified polyester yarn copolymerized with 1 to 5% by weight based on the total molecular weight of the polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 150 to 600 prevents yellowing of the silk composite fabric and at the same time dyes one bath. And color fastness can be improved.

Particularly, in the case of using the atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarn in which the atmospheric pressure salt type polyester yarn is covered around the core spandex yarn, efficient dyeing can be performed under the same conditions as the salt bath without harming the inherent physical properties of the spandex yarn. .

After the dyeing step of the present invention by a post-processing step of drying and heat treatment with a tenter

The 1 bath dyeing processing method of the silk-containing composite fabric is completed. The drying and heat treatment are performed at a tenter temperature of 140 to 170 ° C. and the tenter speed of 30 m / min to give silk's unique touch and gloss, and to fix weight and width. . In this process, care must be taken not to deteriorate the properties of the silk due to excessive tenter temperature and to remove the spandex fibers.

Therefore, the present invention solves the yellowing problem in dyeing by using polyester yarn which can be dyed at low temperature and atmospheric pressure together with silk yarn, and can obtain excellent dyeing fastness in both salt and thick salts and does not harm the properties of spandex core yarn. It was possible to provide a one-bath dyeing process for a silk-containing composite knit fabric. This dyeing process can provide a high quality fabric that can be utilized as a composite material for the purpose of maximizing the activity of innerwear, outdoorwear, and the like.

The following examples are given as non-limiting examples for the one-bath dyeing process of the silk-containing composite fabric of the present invention.

Example 1 and Example 2

After the pretreatment step of refining the knitted fabric (silk: atmospheric salt PET: PU = 50: 47: 3) composited with silk and atmospheric pressure-type polyester covering yarn and setting the width of the knitted fabric at 100 ℃, Table 1 and Table 2 Dyeing at 1Ob at 98 ° C in a salt mixture containing reactive dyes, disperse dyes, 1% by weight of acetic acid, 1% owf of leveling agent and 10% owf of CaCl _{2 as} shown in After the process, one bath dyeing process of the silk-containing composite fabric was completed through a post-processing process (temperature 160 ° C., speed 30 m / min), which was dried and heat treated with a tenter.

Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2]

Except for using 1% by weight of acid dyes and acetic acid, 1% owf leveling agent (leveling agent) and does not contain CaCl ₂ in place of the reactive dye as shown in Table 1 and Table 2 below Dyeing was performed in the same manner as in the above example.

The physical properties of the fabrics dyed by the above Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Table 1 and Table 2 below.

Example 1 Comparative Example 1 group Flat organization (double area) Mixing rate Silk: Atmospheric pressure PET: PU = 50: 47: 3 dyes Responsive Yellow 0.4%, Red 0.1% - acid - Yellow 0.3%, Red 0.1% Dispersion Yellow 0.5, Red 0.1 Wash fastness Fading 4 4 pollution 3-4 2 Light fastness 3 3 Brightness Index (L *) 62.89 59.41

Example 2 Comparative Example 2 group Flat organization (double area) Mixing rate Silk: Atmospheric pressure PET: PU = 50: 47: 3 dyes Responsive Yellow 0.8%, Blue 0.6 - acid - Yellow 0.7%, Blue 0.6 Dispersion Yellow 0.4%, Blue 0.2 Wash fastness Fading 4 4 pollution 4 2 Light fastness 3 2 Brightness Index (L *) 54.83 51.05

As shown in Table 1 and Table 2, the Example was superior in washing fastness and daylight fastness to contamination compared to the comparative example, it was possible to realize high-quality dyeing high brightness index.

Claims (3)

Silk containing a pretreatment process for refining knitted fabrics with silk and atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarns, setting the width of the knitted fabric at 90-110 ° C, dyeing in a salt bath, and post-processing for drying and heat treatment in a tenter. In the dyeing and processing method of the composite knitted fabric,
The dyeing process is 95 ~ 100 ℃ in a salt bath mixed with reactive dyes, disperse dyes and CaCl ₂ 8 ~ 10% owf and 0.5 ~ 1% by weight of acetic acid, 1 ~ 2% owf leveling agent (leveling agent) 1 bath dye under normal pressure;
The post-processing process is to be processed by drying and heat treatment under the conditions of the tenter temperature 150 ~ 160 ℃, tenter speed 30 ~ 40m / mim,
The composite knitted fabric is silk: atmospheric salt-type polyester covering yarn: polyurethane is a composite knitted fabric in a ratio of 50: 47: 3,
The atmospheric dyeing-type polyester covering yarn 1 bath dyeing processing method of the silk-containing composite knitted fabric, characterized in that the atmospheric pressure salt-type polyester yarn is covered around the core spandex yarn.
delete The method of claim 1, wherein the atmospheric pressure salt type polyester yarn is a modified polyester yarn obtained by copolymerizing 1 to 5% by weight of the whole polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 150 to 600.