KR100702340B1 - Make-up Cosmetic Composition of Water-in-oil Type Containing Lecithin - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition having improved usability as a cosmetic by containing a lecithin composition as an emulsifier. Specifically, by containing a lecithin composition, the spreadability, persistence, moisturizing properties, color clarity, etc. as cosmetics are improved as well as overall. It relates to a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition improved usability.

Lecithin composition used in the present invention is a composition in which Phospholipids occupy 97.5 ± 1.0% by weight, which is again 40.0 ± 1.0% by weight of phosphatidyl choline, 2.9 ± 1.0% by weight of lysophosphatidylcholine (lysophosphatidyl) choline), 3.16 ± 1.0% by weight of phosphate (Phosphate).

Description

Make-up Cosmetic Composition of Water-in-oil Type Containing Lecithin}

The present invention relates to a make-up cosmetics containing a lecithin composition as an emulsifier for improving usability, and in particular, it contains saturated lecithin that is not hydrogenated, thereby improving the spreadability, persistence, moisturizing properties, and color clarity of the color cosmetics. Of course, it relates to a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition improved overall usability.

Tone cosmetics can be classified into face makeup groups such as two-way cake, foundation, and face powder, and partial color cosmetics such as lipstick, eye shadow, lip liner, and pencil, depending on the makeup part. The following is a detailed description of the flow rate.

In general, foundations are classified into emulsion foundations, dispersion foundations, and powder foundations according to their formulations.                         

Emulsion type foundation is emulsified by dispersing the pigment in the water phase or oil phase, and then emulsifying the oil phase or the water phase. do.

Such emulsified foundations have a medium covering power and contain a large amount of moisture, which is advantageous in terms of skin friendliness, and thus has excellent adhesion and sustainability. However, it is inconvenient to use and some consumers feel weak oil. In particular, the oil-in-water foundation is lighter than the water-in-oil type because the external appearance is composed of an aqueous component, but the durability is poor in maintaining color over time. On the contrary, the water-in-oil type has better adhesion and durability than the oil-in-water type. One feels oily and has a heavy and frustrating drawback.

Dispersible foundation (skin cover formulation) is a formulation in which the pigment is dispersed in oil, which has the highest covering power, is the most ideal to cover skin defects, and contains the most oily ingredients, thus providing excellent adhesion and sustainability. However, compared to powder and emulsified type foundation, the degree of inhibiting skin respiration is great and the user feels frustrated due to oiliness and thickening of the makeup film. In addition, there is a problem that the unnatural makeup is produced, and further sweating occurs.

Powder foundation is the most popular type of foundation formulation because it is sprayed, mixed with a powder binder and an oily binder, pulverized, pressed and then used for ease of use and portability. These powder foundations contain the least amount of oily ingredients, so they are light in usability, have excellent sebum control ability, and are easy to carry and modify cosmetics.However, powder fluffing occurs and oil content is higher than that of dispersion and emulsified foundations. Since it has a disadvantage of inferior adhesion and persistence, powder agglomeration occurs as time passes after makeup. In addition, the makeup film is lifted up eventually, the color change occurs, and thus the cosmetic film has a fatal weakness that collapses.

Such foundations are slightly different in composition and blending amount depending on the formulation, but can be said to be composed mainly of aqueous components, oily components, waxes and powders.

Among these, the aqueous component is water, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, etc., about 40-60% by weight in the emulsified type, and the aqueous component was not originally blended in the dispersion type, but recently, to provide light usability There is a tendency to formulate a small amount of about 2-5% by weight, and in the case of powder formulations, the formulation of the aqueous component is fundamentally difficult.

Oily components refer to oils such as triglycerides, esters, hydrocarbons, etc., and are formulated at a ratio of 10-20% by weight in emulsion, 10-40% in dispersion, and 5-15% in powder formulation. .

As waxes, carnauba, beeswax, ceresin, candelilla, and wax are used, which are 0.2-5% by weight in emulsion, 3-20% in dispersion and 0-2% by weight in powder formulation. It is formulated in an amount of.

Powders include talc, mica, sericite, kaolin, polymethacrylate, na theory, boron nitride, silica, organic and inorganic sieve pigments, black iron oxide, red iron oxide, ultramarine, FD / C Red 7 barium lake, FD / C Blue No1 It refers to organic pigments and inorganic pigments such as aluminum lakes, white pigments for the purpose of covering power and UV protection, 3-20% by weight in emulsion, 30-65% in dispersion, powder formulation In the amount of about 75-98% by weight.

In addition, foundations may be further formulated with a sunscreen, a preservative, a fragrance, and a functional material for imparting a function as necessary.

Recently, as various silicone oils have been developed, research on water-in-oil foundations using silicone oils instead of general oils has been actively conducted and commercialization has been made. However, the water-in-oil foundation using silicone oil is light in usability and has strong advantages such as water and sweat, while the inherent characteristics of silicone oil have no skin affinity, so there is weak adhesion, dry skin and relatively dispersibility. It has a relative problem of falling color vividness.

An alternative solution to this problem by using silicone oil is to mix a water-soluble moisturizer or oily oil, wherein the water-soluble moisturizer is 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, or the like. It refers to natural extracts such as polyols, hyaluronic acid and natto gum.

However, since they have a lower volatilization than water when applied to the skin, the moisturizing effect is given to the skin, while most of them have a problem in that the moisturizing power is lowered over time, so that the moisturization is not long lasting.

On the other hand, in the case of oil having a polyglyceryl group added to the long chain, unlike water-soluble moisturizers have a moisturizing sustainability, this also has the disadvantage that the feeling becomes heavy when used over an appropriate amount and gives an excessive oil feeling to the user.

An object of the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art as described above, its purpose is to provide a makeup composition that is excellent in skin affinity and ease of use, yet excellent in spreadability, adhesion and moisturizing power, excellent durability even for long time use It is.

The present invention for this purpose consists in providing a water-in-oil emulsion composition containing the lecithin composition in an amount of 0.1-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-3.0% by weight based on 100% by weight of the total emulsion composition.

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition improved in usability by containing lecithin as an emulsifier. The configuration of the present invention will be described in detail as follows.

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidyl choline, is one of the major phospholipids that make up the animal cell system, and has a composition similar to that of skin lipids.

Such lecithin has a structure in which a hydrophilic component such as phosphoric acid and choline is bonded to one side of glycerol and a hydrophobic acyl group is bonded to the other side, and has surface activity, and thus is mainly used as an emulsifier for food or pharmaceuticals. It is a commonly used substance.

Wherein R and R 'are acyl groups of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂

In general, lecithin is used in the form of a composition mixed with various kinds of lecithin, phospholipids, phosphoric acid, etc., instead of a single chemical composition in actual use, and its composition ratio is very important because there are differences in usability and degree of stabilization depending on the specific composition. have.

Lecithin composition to be used in the present invention 97.5 ± 1.0 and containing phospholipids (Phospholipids) in% by weight, the phospholipid is phosphatidylcholine (Phosphatidyl choline), which is an acyl group is bonded in the C _14-22 40.0 ± 1.0, again of C _14-22 It has a composition containing 2.9 ± 1.0% of lysophosphatidyl choline and 3.16 ± 1.0% of phosphoric acid (Phosphate) to which acyl groups are bound.

Such a specific compounding amount in the cosmetic of the lecithin composition of the present invention is 0.1-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-3.0% by weight based on 100% by weight of the total cosmetic composition, when the lecithin composition is less than 0.5%, the dispersibility, In terms of moisturizing effect, spreadability, color expression, etc., the effect is inferior, and when more than 3.0% by weight, slippage and emulsification stability deteriorate when used.

In the makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention, other emulsifiers or auxiliary emulsifiers are added together with the lecithin composition. However, since the structure of the lecithin may be bulky and the emulsion stability may be degraded, their addition has a significant influence on the properties of the entire composition.

In the present invention, as the emulsifying and co-emulsifier, polyglyceryl and silicone are used alone or in combination. Basically, HLB (Hydrophilicity / Lipophilicity Balance) values belong to 4.0-6.0.

As the emulsifying and emulsifying adjuvant used according to the present invention, the polyglyceryl system may be polyglyceryl-10-pentahydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2-oleate, polyglyceryl-2-isostearate, polyglycerol. Reyl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, and the like, and silicone-based emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyol and lauroyl dimethicone copolyol. 0.1-3.0% by weight of the total composition of the emulsifying system.

In addition, the pigment blended to determine the color of the cosmetic composition also has an important effect on the emulsion stability and the usability of the cosmetic, in the present invention, the alkylsilane surface-treated pigment is used.

On the other hand, in addition to the above components, in the present invention, a cholesteryl system of at least one of cholesterol or cholesterol carbonate is used as a stabilizer, and at least one of dextrin palmitate, trihydroxystearine and benton as a gelling agent is used to give an effect of improving emulsion stability. Used. The compounding quantity of these is 0.1-0.5 weight% of the whole makeup cosmetic composition, respectively.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention as described above is not particularly limited in the formulation, for example, may have a formulation such as makeup base, foundation, skin cover, lipstick, stick foundation.

In addition, in the cosmetic composition of each formulation, components other than those described above may be appropriately selected and blended by those skilled in the art without difficulty according to the formulation or purpose of use of the cosmetic.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with examples, comparative examples and test examples using the same, but the present invention is not intended to be limited thereto.

In the present invention, the lecithin composition is used after dissolving it in the water phase part, and the use of such an input condition is to prevent the disadvantage that the relative stability is lowered and the moisturizing power and color expressing power are lowered when the oil phase is added.

Specific compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples of the foundation formulation prepared according to the present invention are shown in Table 1 below.

 Composition of Examples and Comparative Examples Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2  1. Ceresin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5  2. Beeswax 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2  3. Squalane 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0  4. Hexyllaurate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0  5. Isopropyl Hohobate 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0  6. Paraoxybenzoic acid ester 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3  7. Titanium Dioxide (Alkylsilane Treatment) 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0  8. Iron Oxide (Alkylsilane Treatment) Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity  9. Polymethylmethacrylate 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0  10. Talc (Alkylsilane Treatment) 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0  11. Cyclomethicone 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0  12.Dimethicone Copolyol 0.5 - - 2.5  13. Polyglyceryl-10-pentahydroxystearate - 0.5 0.5 0.5  14. Cholesteryl Carbonate - 0.2 0.2 -  15. Dextrin Palmitate - 0.2 0.2 -  16. Lecithin - - 2.0 -  17. Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100  18. 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0  19.EDTA.2 Na 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05  20. Triethanolamine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3  21. Met 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0  22. Lecithin 2.0 2.0 - -  23. Imidazolidinylurea 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3  24. Combination spices Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity

The preparation method of the present invention Example and Comparative Example using the composition of Table 1 is as follows.

1) After heating and dissolving raw materials 1-6 and 13-16 together at 80-90 ° C, add raw material 7-10 and stir with a homomixer at 70-80 ° C.

2) Add raw material 11-12 to 1) and disperse at 50-55 ° C. for 50 minutes.

3) The raw materials of 17-23 are heated together and dissolved at 70-75 ° C, and then added to 2), mixed and emulsified with a homomixer for 50 minutes, and cooled to 60 ° C.                     

4) The raw material 24 is added to 3) above, mixed, emulsified with a mixer for 5 minutes, cooled to 30 ° C, and stored.

By using the preparation method as described above, Example 1 and Example 2 are added to the aqueous phase to contain the lecithin in the dissolved form, in the case of Comparative Example 1 is added to the oil phase to contain the lecithin in the dissolved form, In the case of the comparative example 2, it did not contain lecithin.

Test Example 1 Usability Test

In order to compare the effect of the present invention according to the present invention with the cosmetic composition of the present comparative example, each of the 20 or 40-year-old woman in each Example or Comparative Example was used once daily for one month and then the results are compared The evaluation is shown in Table 2 below.

 Usability Test Results Test Items Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Adhesion 4.3 4.8 4.0 3.0 Persistence 4.4 4.5 4.5 3.2 Spreadability 4.3 4.7 3.8 3.6 safety 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Lightness 4.3 4.7 3.7 3.5 Moisturizing 4.5 4.7 4.3 3.2 Average 4.4 4.7 4.1 3. ㅣ 5

Legend: Very good-5 points, Good-4 points, Moderate-3 points, Dissatisfied-2 points, Very dissatisfied-1 points

As shown in Table 2, it can be seen that the embodiment of the present invention shows a much better use effect than the comparative example.                     

On the other hand, when comparing Examples 1 and 2 prepared by adding lecithin to the aqueous phase and the oil phase, respectively, Examples 1 and 2 added to the aqueous phase were excellent in terms of overall usability, especially spreadability and lightness. There were many differences in sex.

Test Example 2 Color Comparison Test

Using the Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 of the present invention prepared according to Table 1, the clarity of skin color was measured three times by C.C.M (Computerized Color Matching System) and the average values are shown in Table 3 below. Here, the L value indicates the brightness, that is, the degree of brightness, and the higher the value, the higher the brightness, and the higher the C value, the chroma, the more the color is clear.

 Color test result L C Example 2 68.85 4.43 Comparative Example 2 67.74 1.90

As shown in Table 3, the embodiment of the present invention is high in brightness, and particularly high in saturation, shows that the present invention has an effect of brightening the skin color after application.

As described above, by providing a water-in-oil type makeup composition containing the lecithin composition of the present invention, it is excellent in skin affinity, softness and ease of use as a cosmetic, yet excellent in spreadability, adhesion and moisturizing power, excellent makeup cosmetics for long-term use The composition can be provided.

Claims (8)

In the water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition, Lecithin composition containing Phospholipids comprising phosphatidyl choline, lysophosphatidyl choline and Phosphate, co-emulsifier with HLB (Hydrophilicity / Lipophilicity Balance) values 4.0-6.0 Characterized in that it contains a stabilizer and a gelling agent of Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Characterized in that the total amount of the lecithin composition in the makeup cosmetic composition is 0.1-5.0% by weight, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, In the lecithin composition, the content of Phospholipid is 97.5 ± 1.0% by weight of the whole composition, the content of Phosphhatidyl choline is 40.0 ± 1.0% by weight, and the content of lysophosphatidyl choline is 2.9 ±. 1.0% by weight, the content of phosphate (Phosphate) is characterized in that 3.16 ± 1.0% by weight, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The co-emulsifier is at least one of polyglyceryl and silicone type, characterized in that the blending amount is 0.1-3.0% by weight of the total composition of the makeup cosmetics, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 4, wherein Polyglyceryl coemulsifiers include polyglyceryl-10-pentahydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2-oleate, polyglyceryl-2-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol At least one of reel-2-triisostearate, and the silicone-based coemulsifier is at least one of dimethicone copolyol and lauryl dimethicone copolyol, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The cholesteryl stabilizer is at least one of cholesterol and cholesterol carbonate, characterized in that the compounding amount is 0.1-0.5% by weight of the total makeup cosmetic composition, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The gelling agent is at least one of dextrin palmitate, trihydroxystearin and benton, characterized in that the compounding amount is 0.5-3.0% by weight of the total makeup cosmetic composition, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Cosmetic composition is characterized in that any one of a makeup base, foundation, skin cover, lipstick, stick foundation, Water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition.