JPS6094903A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce an odorless cosmetic having improved color, high oxidation stability, excellent emulsifiability, etc., by hydrogenating a vegetable lecithin obtained from the seeds such as soybean, rapeseed, sunflower, safflower, etc., using the hydrogenated lecithin as a component. CONSTITUTION:A vegetable lecithin, especially the vegetable lecithin composed of phospholipid and obtained from one or more kinds of vegetable seeds selected from soybean, rapeseed, sunflower, safflower, cottonseed, corn, linseed, sesame, olive, rice, tung, grape, avocado, and palm, or a concentrated phospholipid component such as phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, etc. is hydrogenated (preferably to a hydrogenation degree of 20-100%), and the product is used as a component of the objective cosmetic. EFFECT:The characteristic properties of lecithin, e.g. emollient property, moistening property, etc. can be kept unchanged.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to cosmetics to which vegetable lecithin can be applied.

Lecithin is widely distributed in living organisms such as animals and plants, and has high utility value. For example, arteriosclerosis, hyperlipidemia, liver disease,
It is widely used as an emulsifier in therapeutic agents for heart diseases, foods, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc.

Usually, vegetable lecithin is separated as a gum when oils and fats are extracted and purified from plant seeds, and as typified by soybean lecithin, it is plentiful in quantity and inexpensive. The phospholipid composition and fatty acid composition of these vegetable lecithins differ depending on the fi type of the seed material, but the fatty acid composition is mainly composed of unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and lilunic acid. , poor oxidation stability and odor generation over time. For this reason, there are problems when normally used in cosmetics, and so far it has not been used for general purposes.

On the other hand, animal lecithin, typified by egg yolk lecithin, has a characteristic animal odor, is expensive, and is difficult to obtain in quantity, making it unsuitable as a general-purpose cosmetic raw material.

For this reason, the present inventors have made improvements to the oxidation stability, odor, etc., and made improvements in the oxidation stability, odor, etc., paying careful attention to the brown hue, etc., and as a result, the present inventors have developed hydrogenated vegetable lecithin. According to cosmetics containing the above, the odor peculiar to lecithin can be removed, and the hue can also be improved. At the same time, it was discovered that the oxidative stability was greatly improved, and lecithin's characteristics of emulsifying properties, emollient properties, and moisturizing properties were not impaired, making it excellent as a cosmetic, and the present invention was completed. did.

The vegetable lecithin used in the present invention may be any versatile vegetable lecithin, but in particular, soybean, rapeseed, sunflower, safflower, cottonseed, corn, flaxseed, sesame, olive, rice, thorn, Preferably, the lecithin is a vegetable lecithin composed of phospholipids obtained from one or more plant seeds selected from Greig, avocado, coconut, and palm.

Lecithin obtained from plant seeds generally contains a considerable amount of neutral fat as an impurity.

In recent years, lecithin from which neutral fats have been removed has been commercially available, and is a solid, highly hygroscopic powder. Any lecithin that is not included can be applied. Soybean lecithin is a commercially available general-purpose lecithin, and it can be more preferably used in terms of quantity, price, quality, etc., except for oxidation stability, which is an improvement of the present invention.

However, as vegetable lecithin, it is also suitable to use fractionated lecithin, which is a fraction obtained by concentrating and separating specific phospholipids, or lecithin in which specific phospholipids are concentrated to a certain extent.As concentrated phospholipid components, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatinolethanol, etc. Typical examples include amines and phosphatidylinositol.

Hydrogenation of lecithin is carried out by dissolving vegetable lecithin in one or more solvents such as hexane, benzene, cyclohexane, noethyl ether, ethyl acetate, methanol, ethanol, zolopanol, and methylene chloride. In the presence of a catalyst such as platinum, palladium, or ronium, hydrogen pressure 5 to 150 kg/crn1 reaction temperature 5
This is carried out by hydrogenation at 0 to 80°C for 1 to 15 hours.

The hydrogenation rate can be determined, for example, from measured values such as iodine value and fatty acid composition. In the present invention, the hydrogenation rate of vegetable lecithin is preferably in the range of 20 to 100 times. If the hydrogenation rate is less than 20%, a large amount of highly unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid and lilunic acid remains, and the oxidation stability is not sufficiently improved.

The hydrogenated lecithin thus obtained can be used as all or part of a surfactant used as an emulsifier, humectant, emollient, etc. in cosmetics. The amount to be blended is generally 0.05 to 10 times the total amount of the cosmetic, although it is difficult to say in general terms. There are no particular restrictions on the type of cosmetics, and in addition to the specific formulations shown in the examples below, creams such as cold cream, vanishing cream, etc.
Milky lotions, lotions, skin creams, shampoos, conditioners,
It can be applied to hair treatments, lipsticks, rouges, pound cakes, eye shadows, etc.

The hydrogenated vegetable lecithin in the present invention has the functions as an amphoteric surfactant unique to lecithin, that is, it has excellent emulsifying properties, moisturizing properties, and emollient properties, and is a highly safe substance. As a result, oxidative stability, odor, and color can be significantly improved compared to conventional vegetable lecithin.

Still, one of the effects unique to the present invention is that the fatty acid groups become rich in saturated acids, which improves the ability to form glues during emulsification and makes the emulsification system very stable.

The present invention will be explained in more detail by showing specific examples below.

Example 1 Production of hydrogenated vegetable lecithin' (1) Soybean lecithin (acetone insoluble content 63.5%, iodine value 78
) 500.9 (hereinafter referred to as sample 1 untreated) was dissolved in 4 times the amount of hexane (weight ratio, same hereinafter), and heated in a 51 autoclave in a 10% or radium car as a catalyst. 7
Hydrogenation was carried out under stirring at 5 g, hydrogen pressure of 10, 97 cm2, reaction temperature of 60° C., reaction time of 5 hours, and stirring speed of 800 r, p, m. Next, after taking out the contents and separating the catalyst,
The solvent was removed under reduced pressure, the white wax was pulverized, and the solvent was completely removed by drying under reduced pressure to obtain 430 g of white powder. The obtained hydrogenated lecithin has an acetone insoluble content of 632
H, iodine value 23, hydrogenation rate 70 H (fatty acid composition nioleic acid 25.9%, stearic acid 58.9%,
palmitic acid (15.2%) (hereinafter referred to as sample 1).

(2) High purity soybean lecithin (acetone insoluble content 98.2
H, iodine value 84, hereinafter referred to as sample 2 untreated) 500.
9 was uniformly dissolved in 4 times the volume of a hexane/ethanol-5/1 mixture in a 51 autoclave, using 20 g of Raney nickel as a catalyst, hydrogen pressure of 130 kli'/cm2, reaction temperature of 80°C, reaction time of 10 hours, stirring speed of 800 r, p
, m, and then subjected to the same treatment as in (1) to obtain 410 g of a yellowish white powder. Acetone insoluble content 981%
, iodine value 67, hydrogenation rate 20% (fatty acid composition: linoleic acid 11.3%, oleic acid 48.3%, stearic acid 242%, palmitic acid 16.2%) (hereinafter referred to as sample 2). .

(3) Uniformly dissolve 300 g of the same high-purity soybean lecithin as in (2) in 5 times the volume of benzene/isozolopanol-4/1 mixture, 3 g of 5% palladium carbon, 1 hydrogen pressure of 30
kg/crn2.70°C, 6 hours, 800r, p, m.

Hydrogenation was then carried out in the same manner as in (1) to obtain white powder 260.9. The acetone insoluble content was 98.3%, the iodine value was 12, and the hydrogenation rate was 86% (fatty acid composition: palmitin i 14.7%, stearic acid 72.9%, oleic acid 12.4%) (hereinafter referred to as sample 3). ).

(4) 300 g of the same high-purity soybean lecithin as in (2) was uniformly dissolved in 5 times the amount of cyclohexane/ethanol-5/1 mixture, and 10% palladium carbon 611 hydrogen pressure 30 kg/1yn2.70°C, 10 hours, 800 r ,
p.m.

Hydrogenation was then carried out in the same manner as in (1) to obtain 250 g of white powder. Acetone insoluble content: 98.2%, iodine value: 2, hydrogenation rate: 98% (fatty acid composition:), lumitic acid: 14.9%, stearic acid: 82.0%, oleic acid: 3
．． 1%) (hereinafter referred to as sample 4).

(5) 300 g of soybean fraction lecithin (phosphatinorcholine content 71%, hereinafter referred to as untreated sample 5) obtained by concentrating phos-7 atisolcholine from high-purity soybean lecithin was uniformly mixed with 4 times the amount of hexane/ethanol; 4/1 mixture. Dissolved in 5% platinum carbon 311 hydrogen pressure 8 kg/m2.
Hydrogenation was performed at 65° C. for 5 hours at 800 r, p, m, and then the same treatment as in (1) was performed to obtain white powder 265I. The obtained hydrogenated lecithin has an acetone insoluble content of 98
．． 5%, iodine value 29, (fatty acid composition dityarumitic acid 14.3%, stearic acid 54.8%, oleic acid 29)
, 7%, linoleic acid 1.2%) (hereinafter referred to as Sample 5).
).

(6) Soybean fraction lecithin obtained by concentrating phosphatidylinositol from high-purity soybean lecithin (phosphatidylinositol content 68%, hereinafter referred to as sample 6 untreated) 3
00.9 was uniformly dissolved in 4 times the volume of methylene chloride/methanol-4/1 mixture, 6 g of 5 chinozo radium car My,
Hydrogen pressure 15 kg 7 cm 2.70℃, 7 hours, 800
Hydrogenation was carried out at r, p, m, and then the same treatment as in (1) was performed to obtain 270 fl of white powder.

The obtained hydrogenated lecithin had an acetone-insoluble content of 99.1%, an iodine value of 41, and a fatty acid composition of nioleic acid of 19.0%.
%, stearic acid 363%, oleic acid 433%, linoleic acid 1.4%) (hereinafter referred to as sample 6).

(7) Rapeseed lecithin (acetone insoluble content 61.2%,
Iodine value 78, hereinafter referred to as sample 7 untreated) 300g
Uniformly dissolve 4 times the amount of cyclohexane/isozolopanol = 5/1 mixture, and add 10% palladium car #?
739, hydrogen pressure 15 kg/cm2.70°C, 5 hours,
Hydrogenation was carried out at 800 r, p, m, followed by the same treatment as in (1) to obtain white powder 260.9. The obtained hydrogenated lecithin had an acetone insoluble content of 61.7%, an iodine value of 460, and a hydrogenation rate of 41% (fatty acid composition: palmitic acid 5.0%, stearic acid 32.7s, oleic acid 51%).
．． 2%! j/-5.7% acid, 14% behenic acid
) (hereinafter referred to as sample 7).

(8) 300 g of safflower lecithin (acetone insoluble content: 65.1 g, iodine value: 89, hereinafter referred to as sample 8 untreated)
was uniformly dissolved in 5 times the volume of hexane/methanol-8/1 mixture, and 5% d' radium carbon 5y1 hydrogen pressure 20k
Hydrogenation was carried out at 800 r, p, m for 6 hours at g/Cr 2.70° C., and then the same treatment as in (1) was performed to obtain white powder 270I. The obtained hydrogenated lecithin had an acetone insoluble content of 655%, an iodine value of 35, and a hydrogenation rate of 61% (fatty acid composition: 6.0%, stearic acid: 575%, oleic acid: 326%, linoleic acid: 3.0%).
9%) (hereinafter referred to as sample 8).

Example 2 Properties of hydrogenated vegetable lecithin (1) Preservability 30.9 of each sample from Example 1 was placed in a 200 ml transparent wide-mouth bottle, tightly capped, and placed in a constant temperature bath at 40°C (Figure 1) and at room temperature under sunlight irradiation ( The storage stability over time (rate of increase in peroxide value) in Figure 2) was measured. As is clear from the drawings, the oxidation stability was significantly improved by hydrogenation, and the odor after storage was also much better than that without hydrogenation.

(2) Hygroscopicity Each sample 20 of Example 1. The li+ was placed in a Petri dish in a desiccator, and its hygroscopicity was measured over time at 25° C. and a humidity of 7'9.3%. The results are shown in Figure 3. As a result, it was found that hygroscopicity did not change much due to hydrogenation, and the emollient property, which is the original property of lecithin,
It can be seen that the flexibility and wettability do not change much.

(3) Emulsification Using each sample of Example 1, emulsification experiments were conducted in liquid paraffin, squalane, and olive oil. The test method is as follows.

That is, 3 parts of hydrogenated vegetable lecithin (by weight, the same applies hereinafter)
was added to 60 parts of water at 65°C, 40 parts of an oil agent heated to 50°C was added, and the mixture was stirred and emulsified for 10 minutes. The mixture is cooled to about 30° C. with stirring in water, filled into a 30 ml graduated test tube, and the degree of separation between water and oil is measured after 10, 20 and 50 days at room temperature. The evaluation of the degree of separation is expressed by the amount of separated water tank (ml) □ As a control, each lecithin before hydrogenation was similarly subjected to an emulsification experiment.

The results are shown in the table.

All of them have emulsifying properties and emulsifying stability that are equal to or better than the samples before hydrogenation.

Example 3 Compounding agent (1) Emollient cream reduced lanolin 2.0 Squalane 5. g ti Octyldodecanol 60〃 Sample of Example 1-(2) 4.0〃 Propylene glycol 5. Q tt Preservative, antioxidant, fragrance Appropriate amount Water Total amount 100% After adding each component (1), heat to 60-65°C, stir and mix, and mix the component (2) to obtain an emollient cream.

(2) Emollient lotion ■ Squalane 5.0% Vaseline 2.0 Beeswax 0.5% ■ Propylene glycol 5.0 Sample of Example 1-(5) 2.0 Ethanol 5.0 Preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances Appropriate amount Potassium hydroxide 01 Water Total amount 100% Emulsification was carried out in the same manner as in Example 3-(1) to obtain an emollient lotion.

(3) Milky foundation ■ Stearic acid 24 Tisetostearyl alcohol 0.2 Liquid paraffin 3.0 Liquid lanolin 20% Isozorobyl myristate 8.5 ■ Sample of Example 1-(4) 1.5 Carboxymethyl cellulose 0.2 Sodium bentonite 0.5 Propylene glycol 40 Triethanolamine 1.1 Preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances Appropriate amount ■ Titanium oxide 8° Talc 4,0 Coloring pigment Appropriate amount Water Mix and crush to 100 units in total. Disperse ■ uniformly, then ■
Add ■ to and pass through a colloid mill. Next, add this solution to 75°C.
The mixture was heated to 70° C. and emulsified with stirring, and then cooled to room temperature to obtain a milky foundation.

(4) Cream rinse Stearyl dimethyl chloride Benzyl ammonium 14% Stearyl alcohol 0.6 t Glyceryl monostearate 1.5 Example 1-(1) sample 1.0 Salt 0.2 Appropriate amount of preservatives and fragrances Water 100% in total

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1, FIG. 2, and FIG. 3 are curve diagrams showing the storage stability and hygroscopicity of hydrogenated vegetable lecithin and non-hydrogenated vegetable lecithin. 1', 11, 21...Sample 1.2, 12.22
... Sample 2.3, 13.23 ... Sample 3.4, 14
．． 24...Sample 4.5, 15.25...Sample 5.6
, 16゜26...Sample 6.7.17.27...Sample 7.8゜】8...Sample 8.1', 11', 21'
...Sample 1 untreated, 2', 12', 22'...Sample 2 untreated, 25'...Sample 5 untreated, 6', 16
'...Sample 6 untreated, 7', 17', 27'...
-Sample 7 untreated. @1 figure number (g) number c days) II 2 figure (I) 9) - number of days (days)

Claims (5)

[Claims] (1) A cosmetic characterized by containing hydrogenated vegetable lecithin. (2) Vegetable lecithin is one or more types selected from soybean, rapeseed, sunflower, safflower, cottonseed, corn, flaxseed, sesame, olive, rice, tung, gray, avocado, coconut, and palm. Claim No. (claim 0) which is obtained from the plant seeds of (3) The cosmetic according to claim (1), wherein the hydrogenation rate of the vegetable lecithin is 20 to 100%. (4) The cosmetic according to claim (1), wherein the vegetable lecithin is obtained by concentrating and separating a specific phospholipid. (5) The cosmetic according to claim (4), wherein the phospholipid is phosphatidylcholine or phosphatidylethanolamine, and the phospholipid is phosphatitulinositol.