KR100391700B1 - Hairstyling composition comprising a polymer with particular characteristics and a non-ionic polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(1) at least one polymer (A) at room temperature and 50% relative humidity, the polymer selected to dry the mixture of polymer (A) and ethanol or water to obtain a film, exhibiting at least the following properties: (i E) elongation at break (ε _b ) is greater than 300%; (ii) recovery at 300 seconds (R ₃₀₀ ) is at least 45%; (iii) when the recovery degree (R ₃₀₀ ) at 300 seconds is 45 to 60%, the elongation is at most 1300%;

(2) one or more polymers (B), selected from nonionic film forming polymers, unlike polymer (A).

The invention also relates to a method of hair styling or hair fixation using the composition and its use for forming hair styling products such as lacquers, sprays and foams for hair styling or hair fixation.

Description

HAIRSTYLING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYMER WITH PARTICULAR CHARACTERISTICS AND A NON-IONIC POLYMER}

The most prevalent hair products on the cosmetic market for fixing hair are compositions that are sprayed as aerosols or pump-actuated sprays such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, in particular solutions, typically alcoholic or aqueous / alcoholic solutions, And water soluble or alcohol soluble film forming polymers in admixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.

However, hair formulations, such as mousse, gels, and especially aerosol sprays and lacquers to maintain the shape of the hairstyle, vary in daily life, such as walking, moving the head, or sudden windy. Still can't keep the hairstyle safe.

The polymers used in the formulations of such hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic film forming polymers which will form films with somewhat rigid and brittle properties.

If the polymer is too brittle, the elongation at break measured on the film is usually less than 2%, and sustained hairstyle fixation is not guaranteed.

To overcome this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers to obtain more flexible, non-peeling coatings. However, these films are morphologically flexible and plastic, and after morphing they only slightly return to their original form. The persistence of the hairstyle has improved, but it is still not satisfactory as the hairstyle changes constantly.

More satisfactory results in terms of persistence have been obtained in compositions containing film forming polymers such as, for example, cellulose polymers and acrylic polymers. However, such compositions are still not entirely satisfactory, as long as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties.

Therefore, studies have been made on the cosmetic composition to maintain and shape and / or fix the hairstyle, which provides excellent cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and good appearance to the hair.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, we have found that certain formulations of polymers can be used to overcome this problem.

The subject of the invention relates to a styling composition containing a polymer (A) having at least one specific property and at least one nonionic film forming polymer (B) in a cosmetically acceptable medium. Also provided are methods of forming or maintaining hair using the composition, and their use in making styling agents, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, for holding or shaping the hairstyle.

The subject of the invention relates to a styling composition comprising the following in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(1) at least one polymer (A) at which the film obtained by drying the mixture with ethanol or water at room temperature and a relative humidity of 50% has at least the following properties:

(i) elongation at break (ε _b ) is at least 300%;

(ii) recovery at 300 seconds (R ₃₀₀ ) is at least 45%;

(iii) when the recovery at 300 seconds is 45 to 60%, the elongation is less than 1300%;

(2) one or more nonionic polymers (B) selected from the following, different from the polymer (A):

Polyalkyloxazolines;

Vinyl acetate homopolymers;

Copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic esters;

Copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene;

Copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic esters;

Copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride;

Alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers;

Acrylic ester copolymers, such as copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates;

Copolymers of acrylonitrile and nonionic monomers selected from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates;

Copolymers of alkyl acrylates and urethanes;

Guar gum;

Polymers derived from hydroxystyrene;

Vinyllactam homopolymers or copolymers.

Another subject of the invention relates to a method for forming or maintaining the shape of a hairstyle comprising the use of said composition.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of said composition in the manufacture of a hair cosmetic composition for maintaining or shaping the shape of a hairstyle.

Polymers (A) of particular target objects of the invention include the trade name Avalure AC 315 available from Goodrich. And V29 Was used.

In the sense of the present invention, the phrase “film obtained by drying at room temperature (22 ± 2 ° C.) and relative humidity of 50 ± 5%” refers to ethanol or water and 6% of the active substance (am) of the polymer (A). It can be understood as the meaning of the film obtained under the above conditions starting from the mixture containing, wherein the amount of the mixture is adjusted to obtain a film having a thickness of 500 ± 50 μm in Teflon matrix. Drying continues until the weight of the film no longer changes, which takes approximately 12 days. Polymers (A) dissolved or partially dissolved in ethanol are tested in ethanol. Other polymers are tested in dissolved or dispersed form in water.

In the sense of the present invention, elongation at break and recovery are measured by the test described below.

In order to conduct a tension test, the film was cut into a rectangular specimen to 80 mm long and 15 mm thick.

The tests were carried out on a device sold under the trade names Lloyd or Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity as drying, ie a temperature of 22 ± 2 ° C. and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%.

The specimen is pulled at a speed of 20 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 6 1 mm.

The following method was used to determine the instantaneous recovery (R _i ):

-Pull the specimen to 150% (ε _max ), ie 1.5 times the original length (l ₀ ).

Stress is solved at the same return rate of tension speed, for example at 20 mm / min, and the elongation of the specimen is returned to zero load (ε _i ) and then measured as a percentage.

Instantaneous recovery (R _i ) (%) as a percentage is obtained by the following equation:

R _i = ((ε _max -ε _i ) / ε _max ) × 100

In order to measure the recovery at 300 seconds, the specimens used for the manipulations were fitted with zero stress for an additional 300 seconds and the elongation (ε ₃₀₀ ) was measured as a percentage.

The recovery (R ₃₀₀ ) at 300 seconds as a percentage is obtained by the following equation:

R ₃₀₀ = ((ε _max -ε ₃₀₀ ) / ε _max ) × 100

The nonionic film forming polymer (B) which can be used according to the invention is preferably selected from:

Vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam homopolymers;

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate;

Polyalkyloxazolines, such as polyethyloxazoline (trade names Peox 50,000, Peox 200,000 and Peox 500,000 (Dow Chemical Co.));

Vinyl acetate homopolymers such as trade name Appretan EM (Hoechst Co.) or trade name Rhodopas A 012 (Rhone-Poulenc Co.);

Copolymers of vinyl acetate with acrylic esters, such as the trade name Rhodopas AD 310 (Rhone-Poulenc Co.);

Copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, for example the trade name Appretan TV (Hoechst Co.);

Copolymers of vinyl acetate with maleic esters, for example dibutyl maleate, such as the trade name Appretan MB Extra (Hoechst);

Copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride;

Alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers such as tradename Micropearl RQ 750 (Matsumoto Co.) or Luhydran A 848S (BASF Co.);

Acrylic ester copolymers, for example copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, such as tradename Primal AC-261 K and tradename Eudragit NE 30D (Rohm Haas Co.), tradename Acronal 601 or Luhydran LR 8833 or 8845 ( BASF Co.), or trade names Appretan N 9213 or N 9212 (Hoechst Co.);

Copolymers of nonionic monomers with acrylonitrile, such as butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates, such as Nipol LX 531 B (Nippon Zeon Co.) or CJ 0601 B (Rohm Haas Co.);

Polyurethanes such as tradename Acrysol RM 1020 or Acrysol RM 2020 (Rohm Haas Co.) or tradename Uraflex XP 401 UZ or tradename Uraflex XP 402 UZ (DSM Resins Co.);

Copolymers of alkyl acrylates with urethanes, such as trade name 8538-33 (National Starch Co.);

Polyamides such as the trade name Estapor LO 11 (Rhone-Poulenc Co.)

Chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gum.

Unmodified, nonionic guar gum is for example the trade name Vidogum GH 175 (Unipectine Co.) and the trade name Jaguar (Meyhall Co.).

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified by C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. .

These guar gums are known in the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as propylene oxide with guar gum to obtain guar gums modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

Nonionic guar gum optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups is sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC293, and Jaguar HP105 (Meyhall Co.) or Galactasol 4H4FD2 (Aqualon Co.).

Unless stated otherwise, the alkyl radicals of nonionic polymers have C ₁ -C ₆ .

According to the invention, it is possible to use nonionic film forming polymers derived from hydroxystyrene, in particular those obtainable by the following copolymerizations:

(i) one or more hydroxystyrene monomers, one of its precursors or one of its salts, wherein the phenyl group of said monomers comprises one or more hydroxyl units, C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkoxyalkyl, halogen , SO ₃ H, (C ₂ -C ₁₂ ) may be optionally substituted with one or more radicals selected from the group consisting of acylamino, carboxyl and C ₁ -C ₁₂ carboxyalkyl radicals), and

(ii) at least one other monomer copolymerizable with said hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, said other monomer being an acrylic or methacrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof, in particular linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl acrylates or methacrylates such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methacrylate, N-substituted or N, N'-substituted Acrylamide or methacrylamide, and vinyl monomers such as vinyl halides or vinyl esters, in particular vinyl benzoate, vinyl t-benzoate or vinyl acetate).

Vinyl, acrylic or methacryl monomers may include one or more siloxane groups. In this case, they are especially selected from the group consisting of:

A monomer of the formula CH ₂ = C (CH ₃ ) -CO- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₃ ,

Silicone macromers of the following formula with monovalent vinyl, allyl, or ester ethers or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid ends:

CH ₂ = C (R ₁ ) -CXR ₂ -Si- (CH ₃ ) (R ₄ ) -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -R,

[Wherein, R ₁ represents H or CH ₃ ,

X represents O or NH,

R ₂ represents (CH ₂ ) _p (p is an integer that can be 0).

R ₃ and R ₄ independently comprise CH ₃ or aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic C ₁ -C ₁₂ groups, such as vinyl, allyl, or one or more halogenated groups, in particular chlorinated and / or fluorinated groups, and / or UVA and / Or amide or ester ethers of acrylic or methacrylic acid monomers comprising groups absorbing in the UVB zone, in particular benzylidenecampo or benzotriazole groups, which are substituted or unsubstituted.

The hydroxystyrene type polymer may be obtained by a homopolymerization reaction which can then advantageously be carried out from acetoxystyrene to obtain poly-p-acetoxystyrene, followed by hydrolysis. It can also be carried out in acid-medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the polymer is advantageously a homopolymer belonging to the poly-p-hydroxystyrene class, with poly-4-hydroxystyrene being preferred.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "precursor of hydroxystyrene monomer" means any phenolic derivative which can be hydroxystyrene via decomposition reactions in the acid-medium, in particular by dehydration in the acid-medium. By way of example, the precursor can be acetoxystyrene or 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol, in which case the decomposition reaction can be represented by the following scheme:

PHS-E is a homopolymer corresponding to the formula:

PHS-E is obtained from acetoxystyrene by radical polymerization followed by hydrolysis. Its molecular mass is from 8,000 to 100,000 g / mol. PHS-E is a linear polymer.

PHS-PG is a polymer according to the formula:

PHS-PG is obtained by catalytic polymerization in 4-acidphenyl medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g / mol. PHS-N is a polymer corresponding to the formula:

PHS-N is a polymer obtained by catalytic polymerization in acid-medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g / mol.

PHS-PG-L is a polymer showing the same empirical formula as PHS-E. However, its preparation is difficult because the polymerization is carried out from hydroxystyrene monomers.

In the composition according to the invention, the film forming polymer or polymers (A) is preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is present at a concentration of%.

In the composition according to the invention, the film forming polymer or polymers (B) is preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is present at a concentration of%.

The concentration of the polymers (A) and (B) is advantageously selected from the ratio of 4000 to 0.002 of the concentration of the polymer (A) to the concentration of the polymer (B).

The cosmetically acceptable medium preferably consists of water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohol or water / solvent (s), which solvents are preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols.

Among these alcohols, ethanol or isopropanol can be mentioned. Ethanol is particularly preferred.

The compositions of the present invention may also be used in thickeners, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, inorganic or synthetic non-fixing polymers and any other additives commonly used in cosmetic compositions for hair. It may contain one or more additives selected.

Of course, those skilled in the art will pay attention to the selection of an optional compound or compounds to be added to the composition according to the present invention, and the beneficial properties that are inherently attached to the composition according to the present invention have no or no lethal effect by the addition.

These compositions may be packaged in various forms, in particular pump-operated sprays or aerosol containers, to ensure the application of the composition in vapor or mousse form. This form of packaging is used, for example, when one wants to obtain a spray, lacquer or mousse for fixing or treating hair. The compositions according to the invention are provided in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes.

When the composition according to the invention is packaged in aerosol form to obtain lacquer or mousse, one which can be selected from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof It contains the above propellants. As propellant, carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen or compressed air can be used. It is also possible to use mixtures of propellants. Preference is given to using dimethyl ether.

The propellant is advantageously present at a concentration of 5 to 90% by weight, in particular 10 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device.

The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair.

The invention will be fully illustrated by the following examples.

All percentages are relative to the weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a.m. Means active substance.

A styling composition according to the invention comprising the brand name Avalure AC315 as polymer (A) and polyvinylcaprolactam as polymer (B), and the prior art comprising ethyl cellulose as polymer (A) and brand name Avalure AC315 and polymer (B) To prepare a composition. The formulations prepared are summarized in Table 1 below.

Composition 1 (prior art) Composition 2 (Invention) Avalure AC315 1.5% 2.65% Ethyl cellulose 0.2% - Polyvinyl caprolactam - 0.35% ethanol q.s. 100 q.s. 100

Two compositions packaged as aerosol (65% composition, 35% DME) were applied to a bundle of eurochesnut hair 18 cm in length and 20 g in weight.

After applying the composition, the softness and ease of tangling of the hair were evaluated by conducting a sensory test of five panels. Grades range from 0 (inferior performance) to (excellent performance). The degree of entanglement was evaluated as the ease of combing after the first entangled to break the polymer / each hair structure.

The results are shown in Table 2 below.

Composition 1 (prior art) Composition 2 (Invention) Softness 10 20 Untangling 20 25

As can be seen from the above results, the softness and entanglement evaluation of the composition according to the present invention showed superiority over the composition according to the prior art.

Claims (14)

A styling composition containing the following in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (1) at least one polymer (A) selected from Avalure AC315 and V29 (manufactured by Goodrich); And (2) at least one nonionic polymer (B) selected from the following polymer (A): Polyalkyloxazolines; Vinyl acetate homopolymers; Copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic esters; Copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene; Copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic esters; Copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride; Alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers; Acrylic ester copolymers, such as copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; Copolymers of acrylonitrile and nonionic monomers selected from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; Copolymers of alkyl acrylates and urethanes; Guar gum; Polymers derived from hydroxystyrene; Vinyllactam homopolymers or copolymers. The process according to claim 1, wherein the polymer (B) derived from hydroxystyrene can be obtained by a process comprising homopolymerization or (co) polymerization of one or more hydroxystyrene monomers, one of its precursors or one of its salts. Linear, cyclic, or branched polymers, wherein the phenyl group of the monomer may comprise one or more hydroxyl units, and C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkoxyalkyl, halogen, SO ₃ H, (C ₂ -C ₁₂ ) A polymer which can be optionally substituted with one or more radicals selected from the group consisting of acylamino, carboxyl and C ₁ -C ₁₂ carboxyalkyl radicals. The polymer according to claim 1, wherein the polymer (B) can be obtained by copolymerization of: (i) one or more hydroxystyrene monomers, one of its precursors or one of its salts; The phenyl group of the monomer may comprise one or more hydroxyl units, and may include C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkoxyalkyl, halogen, SO ₃ H, (C ₂ -C ₁₂ ) acylamino, carboxyl and Optionally substituted with one or more radicals selected from the group consisting of C ₁ -C ₁₂ carboxyalkyl radicals, and (ii) at least one other monomer copolymerizable with one of the hydroxystyrene monomers, one of its precursors or one of its salts; Said other monomers are acrylic or methacrylic acid monomers or derivatives thereof, in particular linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, N-substituted or N, N'-substituted acrylamides or methacrylates Amides, and vinyl monomers such as vinyl halides or vinyl esters, in particular vinyl benzoate, vinyl t-benzoate or vinyl acetate. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the film forming polymer or polymers (A) are present at a concentration of 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the film forming polymer or polymers (B) are present at a concentration of 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the concentrations of the polymers (A) and (B) are from 4000 to 0.002 in the ratio of the concentration of the polymer (A) to the concentration of the polymer (B). . The method of claim 1, further comprising a fat, thickener, softener, antifoam, humectant, antiperspirant, basifying, dye, pigment, fragrance, preservative, surfactant, protein. , A polymer comprising a commonly used cosmetic additive selected from the group consisting of vitamins. An aerosol apparatus formed by a container containing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and a propellant gas, and means for dispersing said composition. delete delete 5. A composition according to claim 4, wherein the film forming polymer or polymers (A) are present at a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the film forming polymer or polymers (A) are present at a concentration of 0.25 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the film forming polymer or polymers (B) are present at a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the film forming polymer or polymers (B) are present at a concentration of 0.25 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.