KR100231637B1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of polymer particles - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates, in particular, to cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical compositions for the care and make-up of skin, wherein the composition containing a dispersion of polymer particles in a fatty substance is in the form of a compact powder or a mold Can be.

The present invention also relates to the use of the dispersion in the composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a polymeric particle dispersion {COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DISPERSION OF POLYMER PARTICLES}

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions that can be applied to the skin or lips as a make-up or care product, such as a lip base, lipstick or foundation, are generally, for example, waxes, oils, pigments and / or fillers and, if possible, additives. Contains fatty substances such as It is known that the greater the amount of wax present in the composition, the greater the firmness of the composition, and thus the use in the form of sticks. For example, compositions in the form of flexible pastes which can be applied when using brushes are also known. The compositions generally contain small amounts of waxes and pastes and / or oily fatty substances. In general, pasty fatty substances are present in large amounts so long as to obtain a composition suitable for application of firmness and viscosity. However, the composition has a tendency to spread into certain mobility, i.e. fine lines in the skin, especially those around the lips, which creates an aesthetically unpleasant effect, which migration is due in part to oily or pasty fatty substances. do. Thus, there is a need for compositions that hardly move over time after being applied to the skin.

Applicant has surprisingly found that the use of the dispersions according to the invention in cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienic compositions has very good staying power and little movement over time It has been observed that a good fit can be obtained. This is especially true when the polymer in the dispersion is a non-membrane-forming polymer, especially when it is crosslinked.

Moreover, it has been observed that certain compositions according to the present invention can easily soften intradermal fine lines by the stomach. Indeed, women and even men generally have a tendency to look young for as long as possible, and consequently, want to soften the aging marks on the skin, especially represented by fine lines and fine lines. By treating the fine wrinkles and fine lines with a cosmetic product containing an activator acting on the skin, for example, by moisturizing the skin, or by improving the regeneration of skin cells or optionally the synthesis of collagen constituting skin tissue It is common to promote the appearance of fine lines. Another possibility is to cover or camouflage already formed fine lines, such as the use of make-up products such as foundations or color creams.

However, the Applicant surprisingly and unexpectedly finds that the use of dispersions in liquid fatty substances of surface-stabilized non-membrane-forming polymer particles in compositions to be applied to the skin has already been formed to enable the camouflage of ongoing wrinkles and fine lines. Was observed.

Regardless of the above description, when the composition is applied, the polymer particles in the dispersion in the fatty substance will penetrate into the fine lines in the skin and thus will camouflage them when the face is at rest. When the skin is deformed, for example during facial exercise, a dispersion of polymer particles that do not form a film will follow the movement of the face. The fatty material of the dispersion whose function is not only to bind the specific particles to each other but also to bind them at the edge of the fine line, also called the "lip" of the fine line, is the adhesion and binding between the polymer particles and the lips of the fine line during facial movement. This ensures that the fine lines soften to a certain level during facial exercise.

It should be noted that the use of the dispersion in the polymer oil which completely forms the membrane is not suitable for obtaining the desired effect sufficiently, easily and quickly since the membrane obtained by the coalescence of the particles cannot be deformed during facial movement.

Moreover, the use of an aqueous dispersion of non-membrane-forming polymers may not be suitable. This is because most of the water contained in the dispersion is absorbed by the skin in this case. The result is that the polymer particles are no longer bound to each other and / or to the lips of the fine lines and therefore can no longer achieve the desired effect.

In the case of the dispersion according to the invention, it is possible for small amounts of fatty substances to be absorbed into the skin. However, the amount remaining in the dispersion is sufficient for good bonding and adhesion, and therefore for proper softening of the fine lines.

Furthermore, the Applicant surprisingly and unexpectedly, the use of spherical surface-stabilized polymer particles in oil dispersions in ophthalmic make-up compositions extends and coats the eyelashes in a particularly notable manner, and also provides good underwater coercivity to the composition. It has been observed that it is possible to impart remanence.

The purpose of the composition is to make the eyelashes beautiful by applying a film that can beautify, color, stretch and / or amplify, while protecting and / or treating it as much as possible.

Recently, we have surprisingly and unexpectedly observed that the use of dispersions in oil of spherical surface-stabilized polymer particles makes it possible to improve the compactness of compositions containing large amounts of powdery compounds.

Indeed, compositions which can be in the form of so-called compact powders, in particular cosmetic, dermatological, pharmacological or hygienic compositions are known. These are generally anhydrous compositions which may consist primarily of solid particles and fat binders, which are shaped by compression. In particular, mention may be made of eyeshadows and make-up loose. However, the development of such compositions introduces a number of difficulties because the final composition must be sufficiently homogeneous and compact to prevent fragmentation that can be caused by good absorption and in particular by impact.

Summary of the Invention

Using the composition according to the invention, a composition in the form of a compact powder which is stable during storage and has good binding properties can be obtained, through which the breakage of the compacted product can be easily avoided.

The present invention relates to cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienic compositions, in particular skin care, which may be in the form of moldings, compact powders or cosmetically acceptable and dispersions of polymer particles in liquid fatty acids. And / or make-up compositions, and the use of such dispersions in cosmetic compositions.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to be a cosmetic composition containing a fatty substance and a powdery substance, characterized in that it contains a dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles in a liquid fatty substance. It is also an object of the present invention to contain at least one wax, characterized in that it also contains a dispersion of crosslinked and surface-stabilized polymer particles in a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutically acceptable liquid fatty substance. Composition in the form of a casting.

It is also an object of the present invention to contain a fat binder and a powdery compound, characterized in that it contains a dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable liquid fatty substance. , In the form of a compact powder.

It is also an object of the present invention, a composition containing a dispersion of non-membrane-forming surface-stabilized polymer particles in a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutically acceptable non-volatile liquid fatty substance, wherein the dispersion is at least Have a solid content of at least 15% by weight.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for make-up of eyes, in order to elongate eyelashes and / or to improve aquatic coercivity of the composition, surface-in-liquid fatty substances, containing fatty substances and powdery substances- Use of a dispersion of stabilized polymer particles.

Another object is that in compositions in the form of castings containing one or more waxes, in order to delay the migration of the composition members to fine lines in the skin and / or to improve the stopping power of the composition, fatty and powdery substances The use of a dispersion of non-membrane-forming surface-stabilized polymer particles in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable liquid fatty substance, containing.

Another object is to provide a surface in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable liquid fatty substance for promoting compactness of the composition in a compact powder form containing a fat binder and a powdery compound. Use of a dispersion of stabilized polymer particles.

Another object is a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable non-volatile liquid in the cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienic composition to soften fine lines and / or fine lines in the skin. As a use of a dispersion of non-membrane-forming surface-stabilized polymer particles in a fatty substance, the dispersion has a solids content of at least 15% by weight.

An advantage of the use of the particle dispersion according to the invention is that the particles do not form aggregates and remain in the form of basic particles in the fatty material, except when the size of the inorganic particles is in nanometer units.

Another advantage of the dispersions is that they can calibrate the size of the polymer particles at will and modify their size polydispersity during synthesis. It is therefore possible to obtain very small particles which are invisible when they are present in the composition and when applied to the skin. This is not possible with pigments in the form of microparticles since they do not allow their members to modify the average size of the particles.

In addition, it has been observed that the compositions according to the invention, which are spread on the skin and semi-mucosa or mucous membranes, have properties which are particularly advantageous for application and adhesion on the skin and a pleasant, creamy feel.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention contain a stable dispersion of generally spherical particles of one or more surface-stabilized polymers in cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable liquid fatty substances.

The dispersions may in particular be present in the form of nanoparticles of a polymer in a stable dispersion in the fatty material. The size of the nanoparticles is preferably between 5 and 600 nm, with particle dispersions being much less stable beyond 600 nm.

The polymer used in the present application may be one of natural ones. Thus, it is possible to use radical polymers, polycondensates or even polymers of natural origin. The polymer can be selected by one of ordinary skill in the art based on its nature, depending on its desired application for the composition.

Thus, the polymer may be membrane-forming or non-film-forming; In the latter case, it may in particular be in the form of a crosslinked polymer.

Thus, it is possible to use film-forming polymers, preferably having a low glass transition temperature (Tg), which is below room temperature. Thus, it is possible to obtain a dispersion capable of forming a film when applied on a support, except when a dispersion of inorganic pigments according to the prior art is used.

It is also possible to use non-membrane-forming polymers which are optionally crosslinked and can be used as fillers which are stably dispersed in oil. The polymer used is crosslinked when applied to the skin to prevent the formation of a membrane. The crosslinker may be selected from crosslinkers known as rapid polymerization, in particular bi- or multifunctional crosslinkers such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or divinylbenzene.

Polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention preferably have a molecular weight of about 2,000 to 10,000,000 and a glass transition temperature of -100 ° C to 300 ° C.

When the polymer has a Tg too high for the desired application, it can be combined with a plasticizer to lower the Tg of the mixture to be used. The plasticizer may be selected from compounds which may be plasticizers, in particular solvents for polymers, commonly used in the field of application.

Non-crosslinked film-forming polymers that may be mentioned are vinyl or acrylic radical copolymers or homopolymers, preferably having a Tg of 30 ° C. or less.

Non-membrane-forming polymers that may be mentioned are vinyl or acrylic, such as optionally crosslinked, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene or poly-tert-butyl acrylate, preferably having a Tg of at least 40 ° C. Radical copolymers or homopolymers.

Liquid fatty substances in which the polymer particles are dispersed, as long as they form a homogeneous, stable mixture, are used alone or in a mixture, as long as they are compatible with their intended use, from carbon-based materials of minerals, animals, plants or synthetic sources, It may consist of any cosmetic or dermatologically acceptable oil selected from hydrocarbon, fluoro and / or silicone oils.

The term liquid fatty substance is understood to refer to a non-aqueous medium that is liquid at room temperature.

Thus, liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum; Mink oil, turtle oil, soya oil, perhydrosqualene; Sweet almond oil, carlofilum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or grain oil; Esters of ranolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid; Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate Fatty esters such as 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl or diglyceryltriisostearate; High fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid or isostearic acid; Higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; Silicone, such as PDMS, optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicone, or optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups oil; Mention may be made of polysiloxanes, fluoro silicones and perfluoro oils modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes. Also volatile oils such as cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and methylhexyldimethylsiloxane can be used or isoparaffins such as "ISOPAR", in particular isododecane.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, the liquid fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of:

Non-aqueous liquid compounds with a global solubility parameter of less than 17 (MPa) ^1/2 according to Hansen solubility space,

Or monoalcohol having a global solubility parameter of 20 (MPa) ^1/2 or less depending on the Hansen solubility space,

Or mixtures thereof.

The global, global solubility parameter δ, according to the Hansen solubility space, is defined by the following formula in Eric A. Grulke, "Solubility parameter values", Polymer Handbook Publication, 3rd edition, Volume VII, pages 519-559:

δ = (d _D ² + d _P ² + d _H ² ) ^1/2

[Wherein _{D D} is London dispersion force resulting from anode formation induced during molecular impact, d _P is the Debye force of the interaction between permanent anodes, d _H is the specific force of the interaction (hydrogen Binding, acid / salt, donor / acceptor, etc.).

The definition of a solvent in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in C.M. Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

Liquid fatty substances with a global solubility parameter of 17 (MPa) ^1/2 or less depending on the Hansen solubility space include plant oils formed by polyols, especially fatty acid esters of triglycerides, such as sunflower oil, sesame oil or rapeseed oil, or long chains (ie Esters derived from acids or alcohols having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the formula RCOOR '(wherein R represents a higher fatty acid residue having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, R' represents palmitate, adipate and benzoate, In particular, the ester of C3-C20 hydrocarbon chains like diisopropyl adipate) is mentioned. Also mentioned are hydrocarbons and in particular liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isododecane or optionally "ISOPAR", volatile isoparaffins. In addition, silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxane and polymethylphenylsiloxane, optionally fluorinated, or optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, and volatile Silicone oils, in particular cyclics. (I) straight, branched or cyclic esters having 6 or more carbon atoms; and solvents in the form of single or mixtures selected from (ii) esters of 6 or more carbon atoms and (iii) ketones of 6 or more carbon atoms. The expression monoalcohol having a global solubility parameter of 20 (MPa) ^1/2 or less according to the Hansen solubility space is understood to refer to an aliphatic fatty alcohol having 6 or more carbon atoms in which the hydrocarbon does not contain a substituent. Monoalcohols according to the invention may mention oleyl alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol and linoleyl alcohol.

One skilled in the art selects a non-aqueous medium based on the properties of the monomers and / or stabilizers that make up the polymer, shown below.

In general, dispersions according to the invention can be prepared by the following methods, given by the examples.

The polymerization can be carried out in the dispersion, ie by precipitation of the polymer being formed, while protecting the particles formed with the stabilizer. Thus, mixtures containing initial monomers and radical initiators are prepared. The mixture is dissolved in a solvent referred to herein as a "synthetic solvent".

If the fatty substance is a non-volatile oil, polymerization is carried out in a nonpolar organic solvent (synthetic solvent), followed by the addition of a non-volatile oil (which must be able to be mixed with the synthetic solvent) and performing a selective distillation. .

Thus, in order to precipitate upon formation, the polymer particles obtained by dissolving the initial monomer and the radical initiator and selecting the insoluble synthetic solvent are selected.

In particular, the synthetic solvent may be selected from alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane.

When fatty substances are selected from volatile oils, the polymerization can be carried out directly in the oil which also acts as a synthetic solvent. Also monomers as well as radical initiators must be soluble therein and the polymer must be insoluble therein.

The monomer is preferably present in the synthetic solvent in a proportion of 5-20% by weight before polymerization. The whole monomer may be present in the solvent before the reaction starts, or a portion of the monomer may be added as the polymerization reaction proceeds.

The radical initiator may in particular be azobisisobutyronitrile or 2-tert-butylperoxyethyl hexanoate.

Polymer particles, when they are formed during polymerization, are surface-stabilized by stabilizers, which may be sequential polymers, grafted polymers and / or any polymers, alone or in a mixture.

Stabilization can be performed by any known method, in particular by adding polymers, grafted polymers and / or any polymers that are directly sequential during polymerization.

It is also preferred that the stabilizer is present in the mixture prior to polymerization. However, it is also possible to add continuously, especially if the monomers are added continuously.

2-30% by weight, preferably 5-20% by weight, of limiting agent can be used relative to the initial monomer mixture.

When sequential and / or grafted polymers are used as stabilizers, select a synthetic solvent in which a portion of the graft or arrangement of the stabilizing polymer is soluble in the solvent and the remaining portions are insoluble.

The insoluble portion of the stabilizing polymer is adsorbed onto the surface of the polymer particles formed during the polymer.

The stabilizing polymer used during the polymerization should be soluble or dispersible in the synthetic solvent and fatty material.

It is also desirable to select stabilizers whose insoluble grafts or arrangements have a certain affinity for polymers formed during polymerization. Grafted polymers include silicone polymers grafted with hydrocarbon chains; Hydrocarbon polymers grafted with silicone chains; For example, the grafted copolymer which has the insoluble structure of the polyacrylic-type which has the soluble graft of the polyhydroxystearic acid type is mentioned.

As sequential or grafted block copolymers containing at least one polyorganosiloxane type block and at least one radical polymer block, especially acrylic / silicone grafting which can be employed when the non-aqueous medium contains silicone. Copolymers can be mentioned.

Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing at least one polyorganosiloxane type block and at least one polyether are dimethicone copolyols such as those sold by Dow Corning under the trade name "Dow Corning 3225C". And lauryl methicone such as those sold under the name Dow Corning Q2-5200, available from Dow Corning Corporation.

As a copolymer of acrylate or methacrylate of C1-C4 alcohol and methacrylate of acrylate or C8-C30 alcohol, a stearyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer can be used.

Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing one or more blocks and one or more vinyl polymer blocks, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, resulting from the polymerization of dienes, are manufactured by BASF, trade name "Luvitol." ) HSB ", polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, in particular" diblock "or" triblock "type, manufactured by Shell Chemicals Co., Ltd., polystyrene sold under the trade name" Kraton " Sequential copolymers of / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type or, optionally, polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type.

Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing one or more blocks and one or more acrylic polymer blocks resulting from the polymerization of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated dienes include poly (methyl methacrylate) structures and polyisobutylene grafts. And di- or trisequential poly (methyl methacrylate) / polyisobutylene copolymers or grafted copolymers containing.

Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing one or more blocks and one or more polyether blocks resulting from the polymerization of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated dienes include, but are not limited to, di- or trisequential polyoxyethylene / polybutadiene or polyoxy Ethylene / polyisobutylene copolymer is mentioned.

When any polymer is used as a stabilizer, it is selected that contains a sufficient amount of groups to be soluble in the intended synthetic solvent.

Thus, it is possible to adopt copolymers of acrylates or methacrylates of C1-C4 alcohols, and methacrylates of acrylates or C8-C30 alcohols. In particular, the copolymer of stearyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate is mentioned.

When the synthetic solvent is nonpolar, it is desirable to select a polymer that most completely covers the particles with stabilizers, and some stabilized polymers are absorbed onto the polymer particles obtained by polymerization.

In this case, it is preferable to use polymers or sequential polymers grafted with stabilizers as long as they have better covalent area activity. The reason for this is that an insoluble arrangement or graft in the synthetic solvent provides a more bulky covering on the surface of the particles.

Moreover, when the liquid fatty material contains one or more silicone oils, the sequential or grafted block air containing the stabilizer contains one or more polyorganosiloxane-type blocks, and one or more radical polymers, or polyether or polyester blocks. Preferably, the stabilizer is selected from the group consisting of: When the liquid fatty material does not contain silicone oil, the stabilizer is preferably selected from the group consisting of:

(a) sequential or grafted block copolymers, containing at least one polyorganosiloxane type block and at least one radical polymer or polyether or polyester block,

(b) copolymers of acrylates or methacrylates of C1-C4 alcohols, and methacrylates of acrylates or C8-C30 alcohols,

(c) sequential or grafted block air containing one or more blocks resulting from the polymerization of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated dienes, and one or more vinyl or acrylic polymers or polyethers or polyesters, or mixture blocks thereof coalescence.

The dispersions obtained according to the invention are then used in compositions, in particular cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or hygienic compositions, such as compositions for the care or make-up of skin or keratin materials, or optionally hair compositions or sun compositions. Can be used.

According to the present application, the use of membrane-forming or non-membrane-forming polymer dispersions in volatile or non-volatile oils is selected.

Depending on the type of application contemplated, the composition according to the present invention may contain components conventionally used in the field contemplated, in amounts suitable for the desired pharmaceutical form.

In particular, the composition may be selected from plant, animal, mineral or synthetic sources, or even silicone based waxes, oils, rubbers and / or pasty fatty materials, with the exception of powdery compounds and / or fatty materials in dispersions. May contain fatty substances.

However, it is also possible not to add any further fatty substances, especially if the oil used in the particle dispersion is present in a sufficient amount within the contemplated range of applications.

Waxes present in the compositions according to the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax; Carnauba wax, candelia wax, auricar wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax; Paraffin wax, lignit wax; Microcrystalline waxes; Lanolin wax; Montan wax; Ozokerite wax; Polyethylene wax; Waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; Hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides which are solid at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among those mentioned as polymethylsiloxane alkyls, alkyls and / or esters. Such waxes are described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32], which may be in the form of a stable dispersion of colloidal wax particles, which may be prepared according to known methods.

In particular, when the composition is applied as mascara, the wax may be present in the composition in a proportion of 5-50% by weight.

Oils that may be present in other compositions in the present invention include hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum; Perhydrosqualene; Arara oil; Sweet Almond Oil, Carlofilum Oil, Palm Oil, Castor Oil, Avocado Oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil or Grain Oil; Esters of ranolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid; And alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol. Silicone oils such as PDMS, optionally phenylated phenyltrimethicone. It is also possible to use volatile oils such as cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, methylhexyldimethylsiloxane or isoparaffin.

In particular, volatile fatty substances may be introduced therein to facilitate the application of the composition.

When the composition according to the invention is used as a compacted powder, it may be desirable for the fatty phase, generally referred to as a binder, to be present in the composition in a proportion of 2-20% by weight.

The composition may also contain powdery compounds, which may be selected from pigments and / or pearl polishes and / or fillers generally used in cosmetic compositions, for example in proportions of from 0 to 98% by weight. have. Pigments may be white or colored, and inorganic and / or organic. Inorganic pigments that may be used include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and iron oxides or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blues, digested chromium and ferric blues.

Organic pigments that can be used include DC black and lake pigments based on carbon black, cochineal caramine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum. Pearlescent pigments include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxcyclolide, titanium mica with iron oxides, especially titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, organic pigments of the above type Color pearlescent pigments such as added titanium mica, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxcyclolide.

Fillers may be inorganic or organic and may be plate or spherical. Tubular microspheres such as talc, silica, kaolin, nylon powder, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, teflon, laurolysine, starch, boron nitride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder and Expancel (Nobel Industries) Balls, polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospearl from Toshiba, etc.), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, tubular silica microspheres Spheres (silica beads of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules; Metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate are mentioned. Can be.

The composition may also contain any additives commonly used in such compositions, for example thickening agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, cosmetic actives, humectants, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, sunscreens. Surfactants, fat soluble polymers such as polyalkylenes, in particular polybutenes, polyacrylates and silicone polymers which are compatible with fatty acid materials. Clearly, those skilled in the art will carefully select these or these possible additional compounds, and / or amounts thereof, such that the conceivable additions will not adversely affect the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention.

Where the conceivable application for the composition is an application as mascara, the composition according to the invention will in particular be in the form of a suspension of a solvent medium of a wax, in the form of a solution or microdispersion, in the form of anhydrous solids or pastes, or in the form of an oily gel. Can be. Indeed, it has been observed that the use of the composition according to the invention, which contains a fatty acid substance and a powdered compound and a dispersion of the fatty acid substance of the surface-stabilized polymer particles, makes it possible to coat the eyelashes properly, which is the result of Elongation, and good residual magnetism in the composition.

In another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cast product and comprises at least one wax and cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmacy phase of the crosslinked surface-stabilizing polymer particles. It may contain a dispersion of acceptable liquid fatty substances. The composition can then be in the form of a stick or pencil, or in the form of a flowable paste, having a dynamic viscosity of about 3-30 Pa.s at 25 ° C. They may be in the form of molds, prepared by methods conventional to those skilled in the art, or alternatively they may be used by direct contact or by sponge. In particular, they are used as cast foundations, cast make-up loose or eyeshadows, as a care base for lipsticks or lips, or as care balms.

In the form of powders, the compositions according to the invention can be prepared by one skilled in the art in a conventional manner, in particular by mixing various components and compressing them using a mechanical press. The composition thus obtained thus has the appearance of compressed powder, for example in the form of coupels, sticks or cylinders or any other composite form. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a pharmaceutical or hygiene composition such as body powder, baby powder or antiperspirant powder. It may also be in the form of a make-up loose or make-up product, such as eye shadow, rouge or face powder.

The compositions of the invention may also be in particular in the form of oily gels, oily liquids or oils, pastes, sticks or aerosols or alternatively in the form of excipient dispersions containing ionic and / or nonionic fats. These pharmaceutical forms are prepared according to conventional methods in the art. These compositions for topical application are particularly cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical compositions for the protection, treatment or care of the face, neck, hands or body (e.g. anhydrous care creams, sun oils or body gels etc.). ), Make-up compositions (eg make-up gels, etc.) or artificial tan compositions.

The invention is explained in more detail in the following examples.

Examples 1-6 describe the preparation of oil dispersions of various polymer particles.

Examples 7-12 describe make-up compositions containing dispersions according to the present invention.

Example 1

360 g of n-heptane and 15 g of a sequential stabilizing polymer of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) diblock polymer type under the trademark Kraton G1701 (manufactured by Shell) are mixed with each other.

To obtain a dispersed solution, the mixture is heated at about 60 ° C. for at least 3 hours.

At 25 ° C., 19 g of methyl methacrylate, 1 g of methylene glycol dimethacrylate, 0.4 g of 2-tert-butylphenoxyethyl hexanoate (manufactured by Akzo, Trigonox 21S) and 5 g of heptane are added to the mixture.

The mixture is heated at 75 ° C. for at least 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere.

Then a mixture of 76 g of methyl methacrylate, 4 g of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1.6 g of 2-tert-butylperoxyethyl hexanoate (from Trigonox 21S, Akzo) and 80 g of heptane over 1.5 hours at 75 ° C. Add.

After the addition, the mixture is heated at 85 ° C. for 4 hours, 1 g of Trigonox dissolved in 5 g of heptane is added and the mixture is further heated at 85 ° C. for 7 hours.

A stable dispersion, like milk, with a solids content of 18.6% by weight is obtained.

Particle size was measured by quasi-elastic light scattering with a Coulter N4 SD machine and the results are as follows:

Average particle size: 160 nm

Polydispersity: Less than 0.1

50 g of this dispersion in heptane are mixed with 28.5 g of nonvolatile liquid paraffin. Heptane is selectively evaporated using a rotary evaporator.

A milky stable dispersion of polymethyl methacrylate crosslinked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate in liquid paraffin is then obtained with a solids content of 25% by weight.

Example 2

According to the method of Example 1, a dispersion of polymethyl methacrylate crosslinked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate in side chain and volatile liquid paraffin (Isopar L, Exxon) is prepared. However, it replaces with the said liquid paraffin isopar L instead of heptane.

Thus, a stable dispersion having a solids content of 19% by weight and an average particle size of 159 nm (polydispersity: 0.05) is obtained.

Example 3

20 g of this dispersion in isopar are mixed with 16.2 g of cyclotetradimethylsiloxane (volatile silicone oil).

A milky stable dispersion is obtained, consisting of 3.8 g of polymethyl methacrylate crosslinked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 16.2 g of volatile liquid paraffin and 16.2 g of volatile silicone oil.

Example 4

20 g of isopar dispersion in Example 2 are mixed with 16.2 g of C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate (manufactured by Witco, Finsolv TN).

A milky stable dispersion is obtained, consisting of 3.8 g of polymethyl methacrylate crosslinked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 16.2 g of volatile liquid paraffin and 16.2 g of nonvolatile ester.

Example 5

360 g of n-heptane and 15 g of a sequential stabilizing polymer of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) diblock polymer type under the trademark Kraton G1701 (manufactured by Shell) are mixed with each other.

To obtain a dispersed solution, the mixture is heated at about 60 ° C. for at least 3 hours.

At 25 ° C., 20 g of methyl acrylate, 0.4 g of 2-tert-butylphenoxyethyl hexanoate and 5 g of heptane are added to the mixture.

The mixture is heated at 75 ° C. for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere. Then a mixture of 80 g of methyl acrylate, 1.6 g of 2-tert-butylperoxyethyl hexanoate and 80 g of heptane is added at 75 ° C. over 1.5 hours.

After the addition, the mixture is heated at 85 ° C. for 4 hours, 1 g of Trigonox dissolved in 5 g of heptane is added, and the mixture is further heated at 85 ° C. for 7 hours.

A milky stable dispersion with a solids content of 19% by weight is obtained.

The particle size was measured by quasi-elastic light scattering with a Coulter N4 SD machine and the results are as follows:

Average particle size: 230 nm

Polydispersity: Less than 0.1

50 g of this dispersion in heptane are mixed with 28.5 g of nonvolatile liquid paraffin. Heptane is selectively evaporated using a rotary evaporator.

A milky stable dispersion of polymethyl methacrylate in a nonvolatile liquid paraffin with a solids content of 25% by weight is obtained.

Example 6

According to the method of Example 5, a dispersion of polymethyl acrylate in side chain and volatile liquid paraffin (Isopar L, manufactured by Exxon) is prepared. However, it replaces with the said liquid paraffin isopar L instead of heptane.

Thus, a stable dispersion having a solids content of 20% by weight and an average particle size of 197 nm (polydispersity: 0.06) is obtained.

Example 7: Waterproof Mascara

The composition is prepared according to the following method: The components of phase A are dissolved and pigments are added to it and then mixed. The ingredients of phase B are mixed together and added to the ingredients of phase A.

Phase A

12 g paraffin wax

15 g of lanolin alcohol

5 g of black iron oxide

Phase B

8 g of montmorillonite

2 g of starch

Isoparaffin 45 g

5 g of dispersion according to Example 1

Obtained mascara with good cosmetic properties.

Example 8

A lipstick in the form of a soft paste having the following composition is prepared:

5 g of wax (beeswax and carnauba)

20 g oil

20 g of acetylated ranoyl

30 g of lanolin

10 g filler

10 g of pigment

5 g of dispersion according to Example 1

The composition is prepared by heating the various components to 95-100 ° C. while mixing until a complete homogeneous mixture is obtained.

After cooling, a lipstick is obtained in which a film is formed which is easy to apply and which is comfortable to wear.

Even after several hours of wear, it is observed that the membrane does not migrate to the fine lines of the skin.

Example 9

A lipstick in the form of a stick having the following composition is prepared.

15 g of castor oil

13 g of jojoba oil

7 g hydrogenated coconut oil

25 g of isopropyl lanoleate

Carnauba wax 10 g

10 g of polyethylene wax

15 g of pigment and filler

5 g of dispersion according to Example 1

The stick is prepared according to the following method: heating the fat phase to about 100 ° C., adding filler and pigment, and then mixing all together at a rate of 300 rev / min using a Moritz turbo mixer. do. The mixture can then be molded into a suitable mold.

The obtained composition is easy to apply and has a good feeling of application. Even after wearing for several hours, it is observed that the membrane does not migrate to the microfilm of the skin.

Example 10

Compacted powders are prepared having the following composition:

Composition A :

-30 g of talc

-10 g bismuth oxcyclolide

-4 g of zinc stearate

-20 g nylon powder

5 g of the dispersion of Example 5

Composition B

-2 g of iron oxide

-6 g of liquid petrolatum

The powder is prepared according to the following method: The composition A is ground with gentle stirring in a kenwood type mill for about 5 minutes, the composition B is added and the mixture is then spun at about the same rate for about 2 minutes and then for 3 minutes. Pulverizes at high speed. The preparation is then sieved through a 0.16-mm sieve and the mixture is compacted into coupels.

A compacted powder is obtained that has a good adhesion to the skin and is pleasantly stretched and soft to the touch.

Example 11 makeup gel

The following composition is prepared:

10 g of isopropyl palmitate

Petrolatum (wax) 5 g

0.15 g of modified hector (mud)

Ozokerite (wax) 5 g

5 g of oxyethylenated sorbitan septaoleate (40EO)

75 g of the dispersion of Example 1 (solid content 25%)

Gels with good cosmetic properties are obtained.

Example 12 Care Oil

The following composition is prepared:

70 g of the dispersion of Example 2 (solid content 25%)

Jojoba oil 15 g

15 g of soya oil

Care oils are obtained which can be applied to the body or face.

Using the composition according to the invention, a composition in the form of a compact powder which is stable during storage and has good binding properties can be obtained, through which the breakage of the compacted product can be easily avoided.

Claims (23)

A cosmetic composition comprising a fatty substance and a powdery compound, characterized in that it contains a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized by at least one surface stabilized polymer in the liquid fatty substance. Characterized in that it contains a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized by crosslinking and at least one surface stabilizing polymer in a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutically acceptable liquid fatty substance and containing at least one wax. Composition in the form of a template. A compact containing a fat binder and a powdery compound, characterized in that it contains a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized by at least one surface stabilized polymer in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable liquid fatty substance. Composition in powder form. A composition containing a dispersion of non-membrane-forming polymer particles stabilized by at least one surface stabilizing polymer in a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutically acceptable non-volatile liquid fatty material, wherein the solid of the dispersion A composition having a content of at least 15% by weight. The composition of claim 1 wherein the polymer is selected from radical polymers, polycondensates, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. The method of claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty substance is composed of one or more selected from the group consisting of carbon-based, hydrocarbon, fluoro and silicone oils of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic source, alone or in mixture form. Composition. The method of claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty substance comprises liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum; Mink oil, turtle oil, soya oil, perhydrosqualene; Sweet almond oil, carlofilum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or grain oil; Esters of ranolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid; Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate Fatty esters such as 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl or diglyceryltriisostearate; Higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid or isostearic acid; Higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; Optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicone, or optionally substituted with one or more functional groups selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl, thiol and amine groups, optionally substituted with aliphatic, aromatic groups or both, Silicone oils such as PDMSs; Polysiloxanes, fluoro silicones and perfluoro oils modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes; A composition characterized in that it is selected from volatile oils such as cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and methylhexyldimethylsiloxane, or isoparaffins such as "ISOPARs", in particular isododecane. The method of claim 1 wherein the liquid fatty substance is Non-aqueous liquid compounds with a global solubility parameter of less than 17 (MPa) ^1/2 according to Hansen solubility space, Or monoalcohol having a global solubility parameter of 20 (MPa) ^1/2 or less depending on the Hansen solubility space, -Or mixtures thereof Compositions selected from the group consisting of. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polymer particles, alone or in the form of a mixture, are surface stabilized by one or more stabilizers selected from the group consisting of sequential polymers, grafted polymers and random polymers. 10. The process of claim 9, wherein the stabilizer is a silicone polymer grafted with hydrocarbon chains; Hydrocarbon polymers grafted with silicone chains; Grafted copolymers having a dissolvable graft of polyhydroxystearic acid type and having an insoluble structure of polyacrylic type, for example; Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing at least one polyorganosiloxane type block and at least one radical polymer block; Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing at least one polyorganosiloxane block and at least one polyether; Copolymers of acrylates or methacrylates of C1-C4 alcohols, or methacrylates of acrylates or C8-C30 alcohols; Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing one or more blocks and one or more vinyl polymer blocks resulting from the polymerization of dienes; Sequential or grafted block copolymers containing one or more blocks and one or more acrylic polymer blocks resulting from the polymerization of dienes; And a sequential or grafted block copolymer containing at least one block and at least one polyether block resulting from the polymerization of the diene. The method of claim 1 further comprising one or more additional fatty substances, or powdered compounds selected from the group consisting of plant, animal, mineral, natural origin, or silicone-based, wax, oil, rubber and pasty fatty substances. Composition. The composition of claim 1 wherein the wax is in the form of a suspension, solution or microdispersion in a solvent medium, in the form of anhydrous solids or pastes, or optionally in the form of an oily gel. 13. The composition of claim 12 in the form of mascara. The method of claim 1, further comprising: stick or pencil form; Flexible paste form having a kinematic viscosity of about 3-30 Pa.s at 25 ° C .; Composition in the form of coupels. 15. A composition according to claim 14, in the form of a mold foundation, a mold make-up loose or eyeshadow, a lipstick or a lip care base, or a product for skin protection, make-up or both, such as a care balm. The composition of claim 1 in the form of a body powder, baby powder, a restrictor powder, or a make-up product such as make-up loose or eyeshadow, blusher or face powder. The composition of claim 1 in the form of an oily gel, oily liquid or oil, paste or stick or aerosol, or a carrier dispersion containing ionic fats, nonionic fats or both. 18. The composition of claim 17 in the form of a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical composition or an anti-solar composition or artificial tanning composition for the protection, treatment or care of the face, neck, hands or body. Elongation of the eyelashes, coercive to the composition of water, or they, consisting of mixing a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized by one or more surface stabilized polymers in a liquid fatty substance in a cosmetic composition containing a fatty substance and a powdery compound A method of making a cosmetic composition for eye make-up, all of which has enhanced properties. Mixing a dispersion of non-membrane forming polymer particles stabilized by at least one surface stabilizing polymer in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable liquid fatty substance in a cosmetic composition containing at least one wax. A method of making a composition in the form of a template, wherein the composition has a delay in migration to fine lines in the skin, a staying power of the composition, or both of them have improved properties. Consisting of mixing a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized by at least one surface stabilized polymer in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienically acceptable liquid fatty substance in a cosmetic composition containing a fat binder and a powdery compound. A process for preparing a composition in the form of a compact powder, having improved properties for promoting compactness of the composition. Non-membrane-forming polymer particles stabilized by the at least one surface stabilizing polymer having a solids content of at least 15% by weight in a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutically acceptable nonvolatile liquid fatty substance in the cosmetic composition. A method of making a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienic composition having improved properties of softening fine lines, fine lines or all of them in the skin, comprising mixing a dispersion of. The composition of claim 11, further comprising a fatty substance and a powdery compound.