MXPA99009872A - Cosmetic composition without transfer that comprises a dispersion of polymer particles and a particular reological agent - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition without transfer that comprises a dispersion of polymer particles and a particular reological agent

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Publication number
MXPA99009872A
MXPA99009872A MXPA/A/1999/009872A MX9909872A MXPA99009872A MX PA99009872 A MXPA99009872 A MX PA99009872A MX 9909872 A MX9909872 A MX 9909872A MX PA99009872 A MXPA99009872 A MX PA99009872A
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MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
composition according
polymer
composition
block
oil
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA/A/1999/009872A
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Spanish (es)
Inventor
De La Poterie Valerie
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of MXPA99009872A publication Critical patent/MXPA99009872A/en

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a particularly cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic-pharmaceutical composition for the care and / or make-up of the skin, of appearances and of the lips, which may be presented in the form of a fluid product or a gel comprising , a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized at the surface in a liquid fatty phase by a stabilizer, said fatty phase being further thickened by a lipid-soluble rheological agent resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic linking monomer (s) ). Depending on the amount of polymer, it is possible to obtain a smooth, shiny film on the lips or skin, which has properties of no noticeable transfer, always being very comfortable. The invention also relates to a method of care or make-up of the skin, of the appearances and of the lips using a composition t

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITHOUT TRANSFER THAT COMPRISES A DISPERSION OF POLYMER PARTICLES AND AN AGENT REOLOGICO PARTICULAR The present invention concerns a composition containing a polymer dispersible in a fatty phase, intended in particular for the cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and hygienic areas. More especially, the invention relates to a composition without transfer for the care and / or make-up of the skin of both the face and the human body, of the mucous membranes such as the lips and the interior of the lower eyelids, or even of the appearances such as eyebrows, eyelashes, nails and hair.
This composition can be presented in particular in the form of a fluid product in stick or in a cup, such as lip balms or lip balms, foundations for fluid makeup, anti-puffiness products, eyelid shadows or blushes, in the form of paste or cream more or less fluid as the bases for makeup or fluid lipsticks, eyeliners for eyes, masks, compositions for sun protection or skin coloring or even body makeup.
REF .: 31655 The make-up or care products of the skin or of the lips of the human beings as the bases for make-up or lipsticks generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers and possibly additives as active cosmetic or dermatological. They can also contain products called "pasty", with a soft consistency, which allows to obtain pastes, colored or not, to apply to the brush.
These compositions, when applied to the skin or the lips, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say depositing at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be brought into contact and particularly a cup, a cup, a cigarette, a dress or the skin. It results in a mediocre persistence of the applied film, which needs to regularly renew the application of the base composition for makeup or lipsticks. On the other hand, the appearance of these unacceptable marks on the neck of the blouses can lead some women away from the use of this type of makeup.
In addition, these compositions have a tendency to migrate, that is to propagate within the wrinkles and lines of expression of the skin surrounding the lips and eyes, entailing an anti-aesthetic effect.
In JP-A-61-65809 the company Shiseido has described "non-transfer" lip compositions containing a siloxysilicate resin (a three-dimensional system), a cyclic silicone volatile chain volatile silicone oil and pulverized fillers. On the other hand, the company Noevier has described in JP-A-62-61911 compositions for lipsticks, eyeliner for eyes and foundation for "non-transfer" makeup containing one or more volatile silicones associated with one or more hydrocarbon waxes.
Although these compositions have improved "no transfer" properties, they have the drawback of leaving a film on the lips, after evaporation of the silicone oils, which becomes uncomfortable with the passage of time (dryness and tightness sensation), separating a certain number of women from this type of lipstick.
More recently, the company Procter & In its patent application WO-A-96/36323, Gamble has contemplated water-in-oil emulsion mask compositions which have a long life, water resistance and no trace. These compositions contain, inter alia, a water insoluble polymer, generally called a latex, associated with a surfactant of the alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyol type, hydrocarbon oils, pigments and fillers as well as waxes.
Compositions based on silicone oils and silicone resins as well as those based on latex lead to matt colored films. Or, the woman is currently on the lookout for particularly lip glossy products. In addition, the properties of no transfer of deposited films. In particular, a pronounced pressure or rubbing leads to a decrease in the color of the deposit and to a redeposition on the support placed in contact with these films.
Furthermore, EP-A-497 144 and FR-A-2 357 244 disclose so-called "non-transfer" compositions, which contain a styrene-ethylene-propylene block polymer associated with waxes, light or volatile oils and pigments. These compositions have the drawback of being uncomfortable, of having any cosmetic properties and of being difficult to formulate. On the other hand, the "non-transfer" properties of these compositions are very medium.
The need still exists for a composition that does not have the above drawback, and that has particularly properties of "no transfer" total, also by a pressure or a pronounced rubbing, a more or less bright appearance, adapted to the desire of the consumer, which it does not migrate, it does not dry the skin or the lips on which it is applied, both during application and over time.
The Applicant has found, quite surprisingly, that the use of a polymer dispersible in a fatty phase, associated with a particular rheological agent, in a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or hygienic composition that makes it possible to obtain a bright film of very good duration , that does not transfer little or nothing, that does not migrate, resistant to water, always being very pleasant in the application and to carry throughout the day. The film is particularly soft and flexible.
The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for topical application, containing a liquid fatty phase and polymer particles dispersed in the liquid fatty phase and stabilized on the surface by a stabilizing agent, said fat phase being further thickened by an agent liposoluble rheology resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with ethylenic linkage.
By "ethylenic linking monomer", a monomer containing one or more ethylenic bonds, optionally conjugated, must be understood.
This composition is in particular a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical composition. It therefore contains ingredients compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and keratin fibers or apparent. It can be in the form of anhydrous gel, emulsion or dispersion oil-in-water or water-in-oil or even in the form of multiple emulsion.
The polymer used in the present invention can be of any nature. It is also possible to use a radical polymer, a polycondensate, up to a polymer of natural origin and their mixtures. The polymer can be selected by the person skilled in the art according to its properties and according to the further application desired for the composition. Preferably the polymer used is film-forming. It is however possible to use a non-film-forming polymer.
By non-film-forming polymer, it is meant a polymer that is not capable of forming, alone, an insulatable film. This polymer allows, in association with a non-volatile oil-like compound, to form a continuous and homogeneous deposit on the skin and mucous membranes.
Advantageously, the composition contains at least one ingredient selected from the cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic and pharmaceutical active ingredients, the coloring matters and their mixtures. Thanks to the dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles present in the liquid fatty phase, the composition of the invention makes it possible to limit the elimination of the transfer of the composition and in particular the transfer of the active substances and / or coloring matters and then maintain these assets and / or coloring matters where they have been deposited.
According to the invention, the amount of polymer must be sufficient to form on the skin and / or the lips and / or the keratin fibers a film capable of entrapping the coloring matters and / or the cosmetic or dermatological actives and / or the oils in order to of limiting, until suppressing, its transfer on the support with which the film is put in contact. The amount of polymer is a function of the amount of coloring matters and / or active substances and / or oils, contained in the composition. In practice, the amount of polymer can be greater than 2% by weight (in active material), relative to the total weight of the composition.
Another object of the invention is the use in a composition for topical, cosmetic or hygienic application or for the manufacture of a composition for topical, dermatological or pharmaceutical application, of particles of at least one polymer dispersed in a liquid fatty phase and surface stabilized by a stabilizing agent, said fatty phase which is thickened by a liposoluble rheological agent resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic linking monomer, to decrease, until suppressed, the transfer of the film of composition deposited on the lips and / or the skin of the human being towards a support put in contact with the film the film and / or preserve its brilliance.
Another object of the invention is a method of cosmetic treatment or make-up of the lips, of appearances or of the skin, which consists of applying on the lips, the appearances or the skin, respectively, a cosmetic composition such as that defined above.
A subject of the invention is also a method for limiting, even eliminating, the transfer of a make-up or treatment composition of the skin or of the lips on a support different from said skin and said lips, which contains a liquid and fatty phase. at least one ingredient selected from the coloring matters and the cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic and pharmaceutical active ingredients, which consists in introducing in the liquid fatty phase polymer particles dispersible in the liquid fatty phase and surface stabilizable by a stabilizing agent and at least one liposoluble rheological agent resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic linking monomer.
An advantage of the use of a particle dispersion in a composition of the invention is that the particles remain in the state of elementary particles, without forming agglomerates, in the fatty phase, which would not be the case with nano-sized mineral particles. Another advantage of the polymer dispersion is the possibility of obtaining very fluid compositions (in the order of 130 centipoise), also in the presence of a high proportion of polymer.
Yet another advantage of such a dispersion is that it is possible to calibrate the size of the polymer particles at will, and to modulate their "polydispersity" in size during the synthesis. It is also possible to obtain particles of very small size, which are invisible to the naked eye when they are in the composition and when they are applied on the skin or lips. This would not be possible with pigments under particular shape, its constitution that does not allow to modulate the medium size of the particles.
It has furthermore been found that the composition according to the invention has staggered and adhesion qualities on the skin, semi-mucous or mucous membranes, which are particularly interesting, as well as an unctuous and pleasant touch. This composition also has the advantage of removing make-up easily, particularly with a classic make-up milk. This is totally remarkable since the compositions of the previous theme in high "no transfer" properties are very difficult to remove make-up. In general, they are sold with a specific make-up remover, which introduces an additional inconvenience for the user.
The composition according to the invention thus advantageously comprises one or more stable dispersions of generally spherical particles of one or more polymers, in a physiologically acceptable liquid fatty phase. These dispersions can, in particular, be in the form of polymer dispersion stable nanoparticles in said fatty phase. The nanoparticles are preferably of a size between 5 and 600 nm, it being given that beyond about 600 nm, the particle dispersions become less stable.
Still an advantage of the polymer dispersion of the composition of the invention is the possibility of varying the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer or of the polymer system (more additive polymer of the plasticizer type), and thus passing from a hard polymer to a more or less smooth polymer, which allows regulating the mechanical properties of the composition depending on the application contemplated.
It is possible to use film-forming polymers, preferably having a low Tg, less than or equal to the skin temperature, particularly below 40 ° C. A film-like dispersion is thus obtained when it is applied on a support, which is not the case when dispersions of mineral pigments are used according to the previous specialty.
The polymers usable in the composition of the invention preferably have a molecular weight of the order of 2000 to 10,000,000 and a Tg of -100 ° C to 300 ° C and better than 10 ° to 50 ° C.
When the polymer has a glassy transition temperature too high for the desired application, a plasticizer can be associated with it in order to lower this temperature of the mixture used. The plasticizer can be selected from among the plasticizers usually used in the region of application and particularly among the compounds capable of being polymer solvents.
Among the film-forming polymers, mention may be made of radical or acrylic or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers, preferably having a Tg of less than or equal to 40 ° C and particularly ranging from -10 ° C to 30 ° C.
Among the non-film-forming polymers, mention may be made of radical, vinyl or acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, optionally crosslinked, preferably having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C and particularly ranging from 45 ° C to 150 ° C.
By radical polymer, is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers to particularly ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer which is capable of homogenization (unlike polycondensates). The radical polymers can be particularly polymers, or copolymers, vinyl, particularly acrylic polymers.
The vinyl polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acids.
As the acid group-carrying monomer, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used. Preference is given to using (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
The esters of acid monomers are advantageously selected from the esters of (meth) acrylic acid (still called the (meth) acrylates), such as the alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular the alkyl in Ci-C20, preferably in Ci- Cs, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular aryl in Ce-Cι, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular hydroxyalkyl in C? - C6. As alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, butyl, isobutyl, ethyl-2-hexyl (meth) acrylate and lauryl. As hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate. As aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of the benzyl or phenyl arylate.
Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.
As the radical polymer, copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and of alkyl (meth) acrylate, particularly alkyl in Ci-C, are preferably used. More preferably, the methyl acrylates optionally copolymerized with the acrylic acid can be used.
As amides of the acidic monomers, mention may be made of the (meth) acrylamides, and particularly the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl such as N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-dialkyl (O-C4) (meth) acrylamides.
The vinyl polymers can also result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one amine group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized, or even partially or totally quaternized. Such monomers may be, for example, dimethylamino ethyl (meth) acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide, vinylamine, vinylpyridine, diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
The vinyl polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. As an example of vinyl esters, mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. As styrenic monomers, mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
The list of the monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art which fall into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (the monomers comprising a silicone chain).
As other vinyl monomers, we can even mention: N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-N-alkyl (Cl-C6) pyrroles, vinyl -oxazoles, vinylthiazoles, vinylpyrimidines, vinylimidazoles, olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene, butadiene.
The vinyl polymer can be cross-linked with the aid of a dysfunctional monomer, particularly comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations, such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or diallyl phthalate.
In a non-limiting manner, the polymers of the invention can be selected from the following polymers or copolymers: polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesters, amides, polyester, fatty chain , alkyds: acrylic and / or vinyl polymers or copolymers; acrylic silicone copolymers; polyacrylamides; siliconized polymers such as silicone polyurethanes or acrylics, fluorinated polymers and their mixtures.
The liquid fatty phase of the composition can be constituted of all cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable oils, and in a generally physiologically acceptable manner, particularly selected from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, carbon, hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone origin, alone or in a mixture as long as they form a homogenous and stable mixture and in which they are compatible with the contemplated use.
By "liquid fatty phase" is meant any liquid non-aqueous medium at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure. This liquid fatty phase may contain a volatile liquid fatty phase and / or a non-volatile fatty phase.
By "volatile fatty phase" is meant any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips in less than one hour. This volatile phase contains particularly oils having a vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10"3 to 300 mm Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa).
The total liquid fatty phase of the composition may represent from 5% to 97.90% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 20 to 85%. The non-volatile part can represent from 0 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better from 1 to 50%.
As the liquid fatty phase which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or petrolatum oil, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm of grape seeds, sesame, corn, parléam, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germs; of the esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid, of stearic acid; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laureate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl laureate - decyl, 2- octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethyl succinate. Hexyl, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linolenic or linoleic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol; silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally phenylated, such as phenyl trimethicones or optionally fluorinated, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones, perfluorinated oils.
Advantageously, one or more volatile oils can be used at room temperature. These volatile oils are favorable for obtaining a film with "no transfer" properties. After evaporation of these oils, a light smoke deposit is obtained, not glue on the skin or mucous membranes, respectively following the movements of the skin or the lips, on which the composition is applied. These volatile oils also facilitate the application of the composition on the skin, mucous membranes and appearance. They may be hydrocarbon or silicone containing optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain.
As the volatile oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms as well as paraffins at C8. - C16. These volatile oils represent in particular from 20 to 97.9% of the total weight of the composition, and better from 30 to 75%.
As the volatile oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclo-tetra-siloxane, decamethyl-cyclopenosiloxane, hexa-decamethyl cyclohexane siloxane, hepta methyl hexyl trisiloxane, hepta methyl octyl trisiloxane or isoparaffins in C8-C16 such as "ISOPARs", PERMETILs and particularly isododecane.
In the particular embodiment of the invention, the liquid fatty phase was selected in the group containing: non-aqueous liquid compounds having a global solubility parameter according to the solubility space of HANSEN less than 17 (Mpa) ' or the monoalcohols having a global solubility parameter according to the solubility space of HANSEN less than or equal to 20 (mpa) 1/2.
The global solubility parameter d global according to the HANSEN solubility space is defined by the article "Solubility parameter valúes" by Eric A. Grulke of the work "Polymer Handbook" 3 was edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559 by the relation : (dD2 + dp2 + dH2) 1/2, in which; - dD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON originating from the formation of induced dipoles of molecular shocks, dp characterizes the interaction forces of DEBYE between permanent dipoles, - dH characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, acceptor donor, etc.). The definition of the solvents in the space of three-dimensional solubility according to HANSEN is given in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional Solubility parameters "J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
Among the liquid fatty phases having an overall solubility parameter according to the solubility space of HANSEN, less than or equal to 17 (Mpa) 1/2, there can be mentioned vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular those triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed oil, or esters derived from acids or long-chain alcohols (ie having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms), particularly esters of formula RCOOR 'in the which R represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R 'represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palpates, adipates and benzoates, particularly the isopropyl adipate. Mention may also be made of hydrocarbons and particularly paraffin oils, petrolatum, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isododecane, or even "ISOP7? Rs", volatile isoparaffins. Mention may also be made of silicone oils such as polysiloxanes and polymethyl phenyl siloxanes, optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic, optionally fluorinated groups, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, and silicone oils. volatile, particularly cyclic. Mention may also be made of solvents, alone or in a mixture, selected from (i) linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, (ii) ethers having more than 6 carbon atoms, (iii) ketones having more than 6 carbon atoms. For monoalcohols having a global solubility parameter according to the solubility space of HANSEN less than or equal to 20 (Mpa) 1/2, it is meant the aliphatic fatty alcohols having at least 6 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon chain containing no groups of substitution. As monoalcohols according to the invention, mention may be made of oleic alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol and linoleic alcohol.
As a non-aqueous medium, it is also possible to use those described in document FR-A-2 710 646 of L.V.M.H.
The selection of the non-aqueous medium is carried out by the person skilled in the art according to the nature of the monomers constituting the polymer and / or the nature of the stabilizer, as indicated below.
The polymer dispersion can be manufactured as described in EP-A-749747. The polymerization can be carried out in dispersion, ie by precipitation of the polymer in the process of formation, with protection of the particles formed with a stabilizer.
A mixture comprising the initial monomers as well as a radical primer is then prepared. This mixture is treated in a solvent called, in the continuation of the present description, "synthesis solvent". When the fatty phase is a non-volatile oil, the polymerization can be carried out in an apolar organic solvent (synthesis solvent) then add the non-volatile oil (which must be miscible with said synthesis solvent) and selectively distill the synthesis solvent.
A synthetic solvent is then selected such that the initial monomers and the radical primer are soluble in it, and the polymer particles obtained are insoluble therein so as to precipitate during their formation. In particular, the synthesis solvent can be selected from alkanes such as heptane, isododecane or cyclohexane.
When the selected fatty phase is a volatile oil, it is possible to carry out the polymerization directly in said oil, which then plays the role of a synthetic solvent. The monomers must also be soluble in it, as well as the radical primer, and the polymer obtained must be insoluble in it.
The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before the polymerization, in a proportion of 5-20% by weight of the reaction mixture. All of the monomers can be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or a part of the monomers can be added little by little as the polymerization reaction evolves.
The radical initiator can be, in particular, azo-bis-isobutyronitrile or tert-butylperoxy-2-ethyl hexanoate.
Stabilizer The polymer particles are stabilized on * surface, little by little according to the polymerization, thanks to a stabilizer which can be a sequenced polymer, a grafted polymer, and / or a statistical polymer, alone or in a mixture. The stabilization can be effected by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the sequenced polymer, grafted polymer and / or statistical polymer, in the polymerization.
The stabilizer is also preferably present in the mixture before the polymerization. However, it is also possible to add it continuously, particularly when the monomers are also added continuously.
It is possible to use 2-30% by weight of stabilizer in relation to the initial mixture of monomers, and preferably 5- 20% by weight.
When a polymer grafted and / or sequenced as a stabilizer is used, the synthesis solvent is selected in such a way that at least a part of the grafts or sequences of said polymer-stabilizer is soluble in said solvent, the other part of the grafts or sequences that are not soluble in it. The stabilizing polymer used in the polymerization must be soluble, or dispersible, in the synthesis solvent. In addition, a stabilizer is preferably selected whose insoluble sequences or grafts have a certain affinity for the polymer formed in the polymerization.
Among the grafted polymers, mention may be made of silicone polymers grafted with a hydrocarbon chain; the hydrocarbon polymers grafted with a silicone chain.
Grafted copolymers having, for example, an insoluble skeleton of the polyacrylic type with soluble grafts of the poly12 (hydroxystearic acid) type are also suitable.
Thus, it is possible to use blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block of the polyorganosiloxane type and at least one block of a radical polymer, such as grafted acrylic / silicone type copolymers which can be used particularly when the medium does not aqueous is silicone.
It is also possible to use blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers. which comprise at least one block of polyorganosiloxane type and at least one polyether block. The polyorganopolysiloxane block can be, in particular, a polydimethylsiloxane or even a poly (C2-Ci8) methyl siloxane; the polyether block can be a C2-Cis polyalkylene, in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene. In particular, dimethicones or copolyols can be used. alkyl (C2-Cie) copolyol dimethicones such as those sold under the name "DOW CORNING 3225C" by the company DOW CORNING, the lauryl methicones such as those sold under the name "DOW CORNING Q2- 5200 by the company" DOW CORNING ".
As blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers, there may be mentioned those comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer, of one or more ethylenically conjugated linkages such as ethylene or dienes such as butadiene and isoprene. , and of at least one block of a vinyl polymer and better styrenic. When the ethylenic monomer contains several optionally conjugated ethylenic linkages, the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization are generally hydrogenated. Thus, in a known manner, the polymerization of isoprene leads, after hydrogenation, to the formation of the ethylene-propylene block, and the polymerization of butadiene leads, after hydrogenation, to the formation of the ethylene-butylene block. Among these polymers, mention may be made of the block copolymers, particularly of the "diblock" or "triblock" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name "LUVITOL HSB" by BASF, of the polystyrene / copolymer type (ethylene-propylene) such as those sold under the name "KRATON" by Shell Chemical Co or even of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type (see below the trade names of the rheological agent). These polymers are generally called hydrogenated diene copolymers or not.
As blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer of one or more ethylenic bonds and of at least one block of acrylic polymer, mention may be made of the poly- or poly-tri-sequence copolymers. (methyl methylacrylate) and polyisobutylene grafts.
As blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer of one or more ethylenic bonds and of at least one block of a polyether, such as a polyalkene in C2-C? S ( polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene in particular), mention may be made of the bi- or trisequenced polyoxyethylene / polybutadiene or polyoxyethylene / polyisobutylene copolymers.
When a statistical polymer is used as a stabilizer, it is selected so that it possesses a sufficient amount of groups that render it soluble in the contemplated synthesis solvent.
It is also possible to use copolymers based on acrylates or alkyl methacrylates originating from alcohols in Ci- C4 and acrylates or alkyl methacrylates originating from C8-C30 alcohols. Mention may be made, in particular, of the stearyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer.
When the synthesis solvent is apolar, it is preferable to select as a stabilizer, a polymer that provides as complete a coverage of the particles as possible, several polymer-stabilizer chains that are then adsorbed on a polymer particle obtained by polymerization.
In this case, it is then preferred to use as a stabilizer, either a grafted polymer or a sequenced polymer, in order to have a better interfacial activity. In effect, the sequences or grafts insoluble in the synthesis solvent provide a more voluminous coverage on the surface of the particles.
When the liquid synthesis solvent comprises at least one silicone oil, the stabilizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block of the polyorganosiloxane type and at least one block of the radical polymer. or of a polyether or a polyester such as polyoxypropylene and / or oxyethylene blocks.
- When the liquid fatty phase does not comprise silicone oil, the stabilizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of: (a) blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block of polyorganosiloxane type and at least one block of a radical polymer or of a polyether or of a polyester, (b) copolymers of acrylates or alkyl methacrylates originating from alcohols in Ci-C, and acrylates or. alkyl methacrylates originating from alcohols in Ce-C30, (c) blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer, conjugated ethylenic bonds, and at least one block of a vinyl or acrylic polymer or of a polyether or a polyester, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, diblock polymers are used as stabilizing agents.
Rheological agent According to the invention, it is possible to use one or more liposoluble rheological agents in the composition of the invention. This or these rheological agents are liposoluble agents capable of thickening and / or of gelatinizing the composition. They are in particular present in an effective amount to increase the viscosity of the composition until obtaining a gel, for example a product that is not poured under its own weight, until also a stick. The amount of rheological agent is a function of the viscosity sought for the final composition. In practice, the re-organic agent or rheological agent mixture represents from 0.05 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better than 0.5 to 5%.
The rheological agents according to the invention each result from the polymerization or copolymerization of an ethylenic monomer, containing one or more ethylenic bonds, preferably conjugated (or diene). This or these agents are in particular vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic copolymers which can be sequenced and particularly of the diblock or triblock type, even of the multiblock or star type.
The ethylenic rheological agent (s) according to the invention preferably comprise a styrene block (S), an alkyl styrene block (AS), an ethylene / butylene block (EB), an ethylene / propylene block (EP), a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block (I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA) or an association of these blocks.
In particular, a copolymer containing at least one styrenic block is used as the rheological agent. Preferably, a triblock copolymer is used, and in particular those of the polystyrene / polyisopropene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name "LUVITOL HSB" by BASF and those of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type or even of polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type such as those sold under the trademark "KRATON" by Shell Chemical Co or Gelled Permethyl 99A by Penreco. It is also possible to use styrene-methacrylate copolymers.
As a rheological agent which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the Kraton G1650 (SEBS), the Kraton G1651 (SEBS), the Kraton G1652 (SEBS), the KRATON G1657X (SEBS), the KRATON G1701X (SEP), the Kraton G1702X (SEP), the Kraton G1726X (SEB), the Kraton G1750X (EP) multi-link, the Kraton G1765X (EP) multi-link, the Kraton D-1101 (SBS), the Kraton D-1102 (SBS), the Kraton D-1107 (SIS), Gelled permethyl 99A-750, Gelled Permethyl 99A- 753-58 (mixture of triblock and star polymer block), Gelled Permethyl 99A- 753-59 (mixture of triblock and star polymer block) , Versagel 5970 and Versagel 5960 from Penreco (triblock and star polymer blend in isododecane), OS 129880, OS 129881 and OS 84383 from Lubrizol (styrene-methacrylate copolymer).
The liposoluble rheological agent (s) allow a thickening of the composition, always keeping a bright appearance of the composition as well as a film deposited on the lips and / or the body. This is clearly evidenced from the Table (I) mentioned below.
Additives The dispersions of the getlatinized polymers obtained according to the invention can then be used in a particularly cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and / or hygienic composition, such as a treatment or makeup composition of the skin or of the lips or even a hair composition or a solar composition or coloring or artificial tanning of the skin.
Depending on the application, it may be selected to use dispersions of film-forming or non-film-forming polymers in volatile or non-volatile oils.
The composition of the invention can advantageously comprise one or more dyes containing one or more pulverized compounds and / or one or more liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, for example in a proportion of 0 to 70% of the total weight of the composition and in particular of 0.01. to 70%. The pulverized compounds may be selected from pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Advantageously, the pulverized compounds represent from 0 to 50% and particularly from 0.1 to 50% of the total weight of the composition and better from 1 to 40 More the amount of pulverized compounds decreases, more the qualities of no transfer and of comfort increase. The fact that the non-transfer properties increase as the amount of pulverized compounds decreases is totally surprising. In fact, to date the properties of non-transferring compositions of the previous material increased with the amount of pulverized compounds. Conversely, its discomforts, its brightness and its dryness on the skin or mucous membranes increased.
On the other hand, the property of no transfer increases with the amount of polymer dispersible in the liquid fatty phase. In practice, the polymer can represent in active matter up to 60% (active or dry matter) of the total weight of the composition. By using above 12% by weight of polymer active material and non-volatile oil in the composition and up to 60, a film is obtained without total transfer. Between 2% and 12% the effect without transfer is remarkable without being nevertheless total. It is thus possible to adapt the properties without transfer at will, which would not be possible with the compositions without transferring the previous material, without impairing the comfort of the deposited film.
The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, interferential or not. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally treated on the surface, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, type D & C, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with particularly ferric blue or oxide of chromium, the mica of titanium with an organic pigment of the type previously mentioned as well as the pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
The charges can be mineral or organic, laminar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon powders (Orgasol from Atschem), poly-alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauryl lysine, starch, boron nitride, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, hollow microspheres such as the Expansel (Nobel Industrie), the polyrap (Dow Corning) and the silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), the precipitated calcium carbonate, the carbonate and the magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydropatite, hollow silica icrospheres (SILICA VEDAS from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laureate, magnesium myristate.
The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC 17 Red, Green 6, ß-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, yellow quinoline, they can represent from 0 to 20% and particularly 0.01 to 20% of the weight of the compositions and better from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue and may represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention can, moreover, contain one or more cosmetic or dermatological actives such as those conventionally used.
As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, sunscreens. These active ingredients are used in a quantity customary for man and particularly at concentrations of 0 to 20% and particularly of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
The polymer of the composition of the invention allows the formation of a film on the skin, lips and / or mucous membranes, which form a system that entraps the coloring matters (comprising the charges) and / or the active substances. According to the relative amount of coloring matters, used in relation to the amount of stabilized polymer used, it is possible to obtain a more or less bright film and more or less without transfer.
The composition according to the invention can, moreover, comprise, according to the type of application contemplated, the constituents conventionally used in the regions considered, which are present in an amount appropriate to the desired galenic form.
In particular, it may further comprise the liquid fatty phase in which the polymer is stabilized from the additional fatty phases which can be selected from waxes, oils, gums and / or pasty fatty substances, of vegetable, animal or mineral or synthetic, up to silicone, and their mixtures.
Among the solid waxes at room temperature, which may be present in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan, fiber waxes. of cork or sugar cane, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fishertrophesch synthesis, oils hydrogenated, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which may be mentioned alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters. The waxes can be presented in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles so that they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed. Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32. As a liquid wax at room temperature, jojoba oil can be cited.
The waxes can be present at a ratio of 0-50% by weight in the composition and better than 5 to 20 in order not to reduce too much the gloss of the composition and the film deposited on the lips and / or the skin.
The composition may further comprise any additive usually used in such compositions, such as thickeners other than ethylenic rheological agent, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, liposoluble polymers such as polyalkylenes, particularly polybutene, polyacrylates and silicone-compatible polymers. the fatty phase as well as the polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives. It being understood that the person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional complementary compound (s), and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the contemplated addition.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a usual manner by the person skilled in the art. They can be presented in the form of a fluid product and for example in the form of a stick or bar, or in the form of a cup suitable for direct contact or with the sponge. In particular, they find an application as a foundation for fluid makeup, blusher or shadows for the fluid, labial eyelids, base or treatment balm for the lips, anti-dark circles products. They can also be in the form of a soft paste, with a dynamic viscosity at 25 ° C of the order of 1 to 40 Pa.s or even of gel, of more or less fluid cream. They can then be made up of makeup bases or lipsticks, solar products or skin coloring.
The compositions of the invention are advantageously anhydrous and may contain less than 5% water relative to the total weight of the composition. They can then be present, in particular, in the form of an oily gel, an oily liquid or an oil, a paste or a stick, or even in the form of a vesicle dispersion containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. They can also be presented in the form of a single or multiple emulsion of continuous oily or aqueous phase, of oil dispersion in an aqueous phase thanks to vesicles containing ionic and / or non-ionic lipids. These galenic forms are prepared according to the usual methods of the regions considered.
These compositions for topical application can in particular constitute a cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical protective, treatment or care composition for the face, neck, hand or body (for example, care cream, solar oil, body gel), a make-up composition (for example make-up gel, cream, stick) or a composition of artificial tanning or skin protection.
• The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The percentages are percentages by weight.
Polymer dispersion example 1 A dispersion of methyl polymethacrylate crosslinked by ethylene glycol dimethacrylate is prepared in the isododecane according to the method of example 2 of EP-A-749 746, replacing ISOPAR L with isododecane. This results in a dispersion of polymethacrylate particles stabilized on the surface of the isododecane by a diblock copolymer sequenced polystyrene / copol (ethylene-propylene) sold under the name of KRATON G1701 (Shell), having a dry matter content of 19.7% by weight and an average particle size of 135 nm (polydispersity: 0.05) and a Tg of 100 ° C. This polymer is non-filmible at room temperature.
Example 2 of polymer dispersion A dispersion of non-crosslinked copolymer of methyl acrylate and acrylic acid in a 95/5 ratio, in the isododecane, is prepared according to the method of example 1 of EP-A-749 746, replacing heptane with isododecane. A dispersion of poly (methyl acrylate / acrylic acid) particles stabilized on the surface in the isododecane is thus obtained by a polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) diblock copolymer sold under the name of KRATON G1701 (Shell), having a dry matter content of 19% by weight and an average particle size of 165 nm (polydispersity: 0.05) and a Tg of 13 ° C. This copolymer is film-forming.
Polymer dispersion example 3 A dispersion of non-crosslinked copolymer of methyl acrylate and acrylic acid in a 95/5 ratio, in the isododecane, is prepared according to the method of example 1 of EP-A-749 746, replacing heptane with isododecane. A dispersion of poly (methyl acrylate / acrylic acid) particles stabilized on the surface in the isododecane is thus obtained by a polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) sequenced diblock copolymer sold under the name of KRATON G1701 (Shell) having a of dry matter of 22.25% in weight and an average size of the particles of 180 nm (polydispersity: 0.05) and a Tg of 20 ° C. This copolymer is film-forming.
Comparative tests In the dispersions of examples 2 and 3, pigments have been introduced, and a gelatinizer according to the invention and according to the previous specialty. The viscosity was then measured at 25 ° C of the compositions obtained, with the help of a Brookfield LV viscometer that rotates at 100 tr / min and equipped with a mobil LV4 or LV3 according to the viscosity as well as the brightness with the help of a Byk Gardner glossmeter.
The results are given in the table (I) below.
Kraton Kraton Bentona wax KSG Diblock Diblock carnauba 34 X-21- 5432 Scattering (%) Example 2 87.4 88. 7 S5. 47 84. 14 Dispersion (%) Example 3 92.2 Gelatinizer (%) 1.3 0.75 3.92 1.5 Pigments (%) viscosity 1626 1758 1266 3210 285.6 (cps) mobil mobil mobil mobile mobil LV4 LV4 LV4 LV4 LV3 Brightness 77.2 67.1 11.4 4.7 2.7 From this table, it is clear that the gelatinizers of the composition according to the invention ensure a high gloss of the compositions, which is not the case with classic gelatinizers such as waxes, Benton 34 from Rhéox, KSG X-21-5432 sold by the company Shin Etsu, which is an organopolysiloxane crosslinked at 27% on active material in polymethyltrifluoropropyl dimethylsiloxane. The composition that does not contain gelatinizer or pigments has a brightness of 84%.
Example 4: Eyeliner for eyes An eye eyeliner is prepared in fluid form having the following composition: hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.77% black iron oxides 15.00% polymer dispersion of example 3 81.40% Polystyrene / poly (ethylene-propylene) * 1.30% PVP * copolymer / eicosene 0.44% phenyltrimethicone 0.76% octyldodecanol 0.33% * Kraton - G1701 (Shell Chimie) ** PVP - polyvinylpyrrolidone This eyeliner is obtained according to the following procedure: solubilize the Kraton in the hot polymer dispersion (approximately 50 ° C) for 2 h then add the pigments previously ground in the oils.
This eyeliner has been examined by experts in cosmetics. The results of the exam are given below: . the application is easy and sliding,. the coverage is good the result of the make-up is satisfactory; the reflection is satin or satin / glossy; the stroke is net to the slip. . adhesion is good.
Comfort is good for 2/3 of the testers, during application and after drying. The duration is considered good for the set of testers.
The duration is judged good, also also very good for certain testers.
Example 5: Lip lacquer A lip lacquer is prepared in a fluid form having the following composition: . hydrogenated polyisobutene. PVP / eicosene copolymer 1.28%. aluminum lacquer of Red DC 27 2.00%. Calcium lacquer Red DC 7 3.69%. red DC 36 0.95%. 0.07% black iron oxide. 2.09% red iron oxide. dispersion of example 3 53.50%. Kraton G-1650 V (Shell Chimie) * 1.00%. 2.23% phenyltrimethicone. octyldodecanol 0.96% • * polystyrene / poly (ethylene-butylene) / polystyrene.
This lip lacquer is very bright, without total transfer and no emigrant. It is obtained as in example 4.
Example 6: Labial without transfer A lip is prepared in a fluid form having the following composition: . hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.77% . Iron oxide 4.00% . dispersion of example 2 92.20%. Kraton G1701 (Shell Chimie) 1.50%. PVP / eicosene copolymer 0.44%. 0.76% phenyltrimethicone. octyldodecanol 0.33% This lip is prepared as in Example 4. It has then been examined by experts using an applicator with foam end. It is presented in a fluid, bright, smooth way to the application, without transfer and not emigrant.
The application is easy and fast. The load on the foam end is good, the texture is fluid, light. The applicator slides very well, the stroke is done in a single movement. The lip makeup is fast, this lipstick deposits a homogeneous film, which does not need to be reviewed above.
The comfort is good for the application for four fifths of the testers.
The outline is net on unwrinkled lips. This lipstick leaves a beautiful satin reflection and good coverage.
The transfer is weak. The deposit is judged at the "fingerprints" stage for two fifths of the tests and "none" for three fifths of the tests. It is appreciated by a kiss on a sheet of paper 2 minutes after drying.
Example 7: Lip lacquer A lip lacquer is prepared in a fluid form having the following composition: . Apricot kernel oil 5.00. hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.77. Lacquer aluminum Red DC 27 0.91% . Calcium lacquer Red DC 7 1.68% . Red DC 36 0.43% . 0.03% black iron oxide . red iron oxide 0.95% . PVP / eicosene copolymer 0.43% . Kraton G1701 (Shell Chimie) 1.3%. dispersion of Example 3 87.4%. 0.77% phenyltrimethicone . octyldodecanol 0.33% This lip lacquer is prepared as in example 4 with the addition of apricot oil in the polymer dispersion before the addition of the pigments.
Example 8: Basis for fluid makeup A foundation for makeup is prepared in fluid form having the following composition: hydrogenated polyisobutene 7.00% yellow iron oxide 1.17% black iron oxide 0.26% brown iron oxide 0.64% titanium dioxide 7.93% polymer dispersion of example 2 55.00% polystyrene / poly (ethylene-propylene) 2.00% nylon-12 12.00% PVP / eicosene copolymer 4.00% phenyltrimetiicone 7.00% octyldodecanol 3.00% This foundation for makeup is prepared as in example 4. It is presented in a fluid form, it is well extended, it is comfortable and has very good properties without transfer.
Example 9: Brilliant lipstick with improved non-transfer properties A lipstick is prepared in the form of a stick that has the following composition: . 7.6% sesame oil. 0.06% sodium hyaluronate. conservative 0.06%. Lanolin oil as a base for 100.00%. acetylated lanolin 4.04%. Arara oil 8.06%. oleoyl erucate 8.06% microcrystalline wax 6.18% muscatel rose oil 1.05% titanium dioxide 1.81% FD & Yellow C No. 6 aluminum lacquer oxides of black iron 0.06% aluminum lacquer Red DC 21 0.06% calcium lacquer Red DC 7 2.88 -s octyl methoxycyanate 0.42% hectorite quaternium- 18 (bentone 37 V) 0.35% dispersion example 2 31.00% Kraton G1650E (Shell Chimie) 0.60% wax of PPG-5 lanolin 4.03% polyglycerolated beeswax 2.46% octidodecanol 0.31% tocopherol acetate 0.31% This lipstick comes in the form of a stick. It has been examined in comparison with a classic lipstick that does not contain the polymer dispersion or the Kraton G1650E. This classic lipstick is a very comfortable lipstick.
These two lipsticks have been recognized as very easy and quick to apply, with a smooth texture, unctuous, slippery and adherent. The coverage is higher for the lip of the invention and the film formed is more homogeneous than that of the classic lipstick. The makeup is judged satisfactory, the edges are net. The film is satiny. The transfer is appreciated comparatively by half of the lips by a kiss on a filter paper, 2 minutes after the application. The transfer is judged less important (light to medium) with the labial of the invention for all the testers in relation to that of the previous specialty (medium to + important). The comfort after the application is judged satisfactory for the 2 labials.
It is noted that in relation to this date the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention is that which is clear from the present description.
Having described the invention as above, it is claimed as property in the following:

Claims (32)

1. Composition for topical application which is characterized in that it contains a liquid fatty phase and polymer particles dispersed in the liquid fatty phase and stabilized on the surface by a stabilizing agent, said phase which is further thickened by a "fat-soluble rheological agent resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic linking monomer.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the rheological agent is a vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic polymer.
3. Composition according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the rheological agent is a block of copolymer.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the rheological agent is a copolymer containing at least one styrenic block and at least one ethylene-propylene or ethylene-butylene or methacrylate block.
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the rheological agent is a triblock copolymer.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the rheological agent represents 0.05 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the rheological agent represents 0.5 to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer in dispersion is film-forming.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one active selected from cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients is provided.
10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one coloring matter.
11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer in dispersion is selected from radical polymers, polycondensates, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer in dispersion is selected from polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesters, amides, fatty chain polyesters, alkyds; acrylic and / or vinyl polymers or copolymers; acrylic-silicone copolymers; polyacrylamides; siliconized polymers, fluorinated polymers and their mixtures.
13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase is constituted by oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonated, fluorinated and / or silicone, alone or as a mixture.
14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase is selected from paraffin or petrolatum oil, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, per idroesqualene oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil , of palm, of parléam, of grape seeds, of sesame, of corn, of rapeseed, of sunflower, of cotton, of apricot, of castor, of avocado, of jojoba, of olive or of germs of cereals; esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid, of stearic acid; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- hexyl laurate decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerine; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; silicone oils such as PDMS which are optionally phenylated, such as phenyldimethicones or optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkenes, fluorinated silicones, perfluorinated oils; volatile oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadimethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl exyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane or C8-C6 isoparaffins and isododecane.
15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase contains at least one volatile oil at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the stabilizer is selected from among the sequenced polymers, the grafted polymers, the statistical polymers and their mixtures.
17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the stabilizer is selected from silicone polymers grafted with a hydrocarbon chain; the hydrocarbon polymers grafted with a silicone chain; grafted copolymers having an insoluble skeleton of the polyacrylic type with soluble grafts of the poly-12 (hydroxystearic) type; blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block of polyorganosiloxane type and at least one block of a radical polymer; blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block of polyorganosiloxane type and at least one polyether; the copolymers of acrylates or of alkyl methacrylates in C? -C, or of acrylates or of C8-C0 alkyl methacrylates; blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of ethylenic monomers optionally containing conjugate linkages and at least one block of a vinyl polymer; blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of ethylenic monomers optionally containing conjugated linkages and at least one block of an acrylic polymer; blocks of grafted or sequenced copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of diene and at least one block of a polyether.
18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizer is a block of grafted or sequenced polymer, comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of dyne and at least one block of a vinyl polymer.
19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising, in addition, at least one additional fatty phase selected from among waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances, of vegetable, animal, mineral, synthetic or silicone origin, and their constituents. mixtures
20. Composition according to any of claims 10 to 19, characterized in that the coloring matter comprises at least one pulverized compound selected from the fillers, the pigments, the nacres and their mixtures.
21. Composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the pulverized compound represents up to 50% of the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to one of claims 20 to 21, characterized in that the pulverized compound represents from 1 to 40% of the total weight of the composition.
23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion polymer represents (in dry matter) up to 60% of the total weight of the composition.
24. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion polymer represents (in dry matter) from 12 to 60% of the total weight of the composition.
25. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase contains at least one oil selected from C8-C6 isoparaffins, isododecane, and linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms , these silicones containing optionally alkyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, their mixtures.
26. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are in the form of a stick or bar, in the form of a soft paste of dynamic viscosity at 25 ° C from 1 to 40 Pa.s in the form of a cup, of oily gel , of oily liquid, of vesicular dispersion containing ionic and / or non-ionic lipids, of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.
27. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is presented in anhydrous form.
28. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is presented in the form of a care and / or makeup product of the skin and / or of the lips.
29. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of a base for make-up, of a blush or shadow for the eyelids, of a lipstick, of a base or balsam of care for the lips, of a product anti-dark circles, an eyeliner for the eyes, a mask.
30. Use in or for the manufacture of a composition for topical application, of particles of at least one polymer dispersed in a liquid fatty phase and stabilized on the surface by a stabilizing agent, said fatty phase being thickened by a lipid-soluble rheological agent resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic linking monomer, in order to diminish, until it suppresses, the transfer of the film of composition deposited on the skin and / or the lips of the human being towards a support placed in contact with the film and / or to preserve its luster .
31. Procedure for cosmetic care or make-up of the lips or skin, which consists of applying on the lips or skin, respectively, a cosmetic composition as defined in claims 1 to 29.
32. PROCEDURE FOR LIMITING, UPON REMOVING, THE TRANSFER OF A COMPOSITION OF MAKE-UP OR CARE OF THE SKIN OR OF THE LIPS ON A SUPPORT OTHER THAN THE SKIN OR OF THE LIPS, CONTAINING A LIQUID PHASE PHASE AND AT LEAST ONE AMENITIES SELECTED FROM cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic and pharmaceutical active ingredients and dyestuffs, which consist of introducing a fat-soluble rheological agent into the liquid fatty phase resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer and of the dispersible polymer particles in said liquid fat phase and stabilizable on the surface by a stabilizing agent.
MXPA/A/1999/009872A 1998-11-09 1999-10-27 Cosmetic composition without transfer that comprises a dispersion of polymer particles and a particular reological agent MXPA99009872A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9814076 1998-11-09

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MXPA99009872A true MXPA99009872A (en) 2000-12-06

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