KR100216965B1 - Pleat manufacture method of wool fabrics - Google Patents

Pleat manufacture method of wool fabrics Download PDF

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Publication number
KR100216965B1
KR100216965B1 KR1019970024066A KR19970024066A KR100216965B1 KR 100216965 B1 KR100216965 B1 KR 100216965B1 KR 1019970024066 A KR1019970024066 A KR 1019970024066A KR 19970024066 A KR19970024066 A KR 19970024066A KR 100216965 B1 KR100216965 B1 KR 100216965B1
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wool
processing method
pleat
cysteine
reducing
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KR1019970024066A
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KR19990000918A (en
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이은호
정운두
김덕용
이제환
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한형수
주식회사새한
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/137—Acetals, e.g. formals, or ketals
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은 착용시 또는 세탁후에 주름선이 펴지지 않게 하기 위하여 환원제와 포르말린 원액을 이용하는 플리이트 가공방법으로서, 환원제와 침투제를 물에 녹인 환원용액을 다림질한 모직물에 분사하여 픽업율이 50

Figure kpo00001
5
Figure kpo00002
되게 하여 양모섬유 중의 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고 건조시킨 다음 포르말린 원액과 SO2가스를 이용하여 시스테인(-SH)을 강력한 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)으로 형성시킨 다음 이를 열고정시킴으로서 강력한 형태안정성을 부여하는 외력에 의해 주름선이 없어지지 않게 하는 양모섬유 직물의 플리이트 가공방법.The present invention is a pleat processing method using a reducing agent and formalin undiluted solution in order to prevent the wrinkles from spreading when worn or after washing. The pickup rate is 50 by spraying the reducing solution dissolved in water with the reducing agent and the penetrant on the ironed wool.
Figure kpo00001
5
Figure kpo00002
To produce a large amount of cysteine (-SH) in the wool fibers and to dry, and then to form a strong methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) cysteine (-SH) using a formalin stock solution and SO 2 gas Next, the pleat processing method of the wool fiber fabric is heat-fixed so that the wrinkle line is not lost by the external force that imparts strong morphological stability.

Description

양모섬유 직물의 플리이트 가공방법Pleat processing method of wool fiber fabric

본 발명은 착용시 또는 세탁후 주름선이 펴지지 않는 양모섬유 직물의 플리이트(pleat) 가공방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 주름이 접힌 상태에서 환원제로 처리하여 양모섬유 중에 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고 이를 포르말린 원액과 화학결합시켜 강력한 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성케 함으로써 주름이 펴지지 않게 하는 플리이트 가공방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a pleat processing method of a wool fiber fabric which does not spread wrinkles when worn or after washing. More specifically, the present invention relates to cysteine (-SH) in wool fibers by treating with a reducing agent in a folded state. The present invention relates to a pleat processing method which prevents wrinkles by generating a large number and chemically bonding it with a formalin stock solution to form a strong methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-).

모제품은 탄성 회복율이 타섬유에 비하여 우수하므로 건조상태에서 착용시 생긴 구김이나 주름은 일정한 시간 동안 행거에 걸어두면 펴지지만 젖은 상태에서 생긴 구김이나 주름은 건조후에도 잔주름으로 남게 된다.As the parent product has better elastic recovery rate than other fibers, wrinkles or wrinkles caused when worn in a dry state are stretched when hanged on a hanger for a certain period of time, but wrinkles or wrinkles caused by wet conditions remain as fine wrinkles even after drying.

따라서 퍼마넨트프레스(permanent press) 가공을 하더라도 오랫동안 보전되어야 할 주름이 외력에 의해 펴지게 되어 소기의 목적을 달성할 수 없게 된다.Therefore, even if the permanent press (Permanent press) processing, wrinkles that are to be preserved for a long time will be unfolded by the external force can not achieve the intended purpose.

종래에도 양모섬유에 대하여 형태안정성을 부여하기 위한 여러가지 방추가공(Antic-crease finighing)과 플리이트 가공(pleating finishing)등이 개발되어 왔다.Conventionally, various anti-crease finighing and pleating finishes have been developed to impart morphological stability to wool fibers.

특히 구김이나 잔주름의 회복성을 향상시키기 위해서는 탈아미노화, 아세틸화 및 메틸화 등에 의해 반응성 측쇄극성기를 이용하는 화학적 방법이 공지되고 있으나 이 방법은 친수성 저하로 주름이나 구김의 회복성 향상은 기대할 수 있으나 섬유의 물성을 약화시키는 폐단이 있었다.In particular, to improve the recovery of wrinkles and fine wrinkles, a chemical method using a reactive side chain polar group by deamination, acetylation, and methylation is known, but this method can be expected to improve the recovery of wrinkles or wrinkles due to the decrease in hydrophilicity. There was a weakening of the physical properties of the.

또한 어닐링(annealing)에 의한 구김의 회복성 향상이 시도되고 있으며 특히 다관능성 페놀과 멜라민 처리후 파라-포름알데히드의 존재하에서 어닐링하는 방법이 모직물의 형태안정화에 크게 기여하고 있으나, 이 경우 섬유의 인열강도, 굴곡마찰, 표면 마찰이 현저히 감소되므로 촉감이 나빠지는 결함이 있다.In addition, an attempt has been made to improve the recovery of wrinkles by annealing, and in particular, the method of annealing in the presence of para-formaldehyde after polyfunctional phenol and melamine treatment greatly contributes to the stabilization of the wool. Thermal strength, flexural friction, and surface friction are significantly reduced, resulting in poor touch.

상기 이외에도 방추성이 우수한 소재(강연사)를 사용하는 방법과 표면탄성체인 천연 고분자 물질을 부착 사용하는 방법 등이 광범위하게 이용되고 있다.In addition to the above, a method of using a material having excellent spindle property (wound yarn) and a method of attaching and using a natural polymer material, which is a surface elastic body, have been widely used.

모직물은 일반적으로 온도, 습도 및 스트레스 등 외력에 의하여 주름이 잡힌 상태에서 양모섬유 중 시스틴결합(cystine bridge)이 또 다른 외력(세탁시의 물, 착용시의 스트레스)에 의하여 깨어지게 되어 주름선이 펴지게 된다.Wool fabrics are generally wrinkled by external forces such as temperature, humidity, and stress, and the cystine bridge of wool fibers is broken by another external force (water for washing, stress when worn). It will spread out.

따라서 본 발명은 뛰어난 형태안정 효과를 부여하여 잡힌 주름이 오랫동안 펴지지 않는 모직물의 가공방법을 얻기 위하여 주름이 잡힌 상태의 모직물을 환원제로 처리하여 양모섬유 중에 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고 여기에 포르말린과 SO2가스를 이용하여 강력한 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성시켜 외력에 의해서 주름이 펴지지 않도록 한다.Therefore, the present invention provides a number of cysteine (-SH) in the wool fiber by treating the woolen material in the wrinkled state with a reducing agent in order to obtain an excellent shape stability effect and obtain a processing method of the woolen wool is not stretched for a long time Formalin and SO 2 gas are used to form strong methylene bonds (-S-CH 2 -S-) so that they are not wrinkled by external forces.

즉 다림질한 모직물을 스프레이를 이용하여 환원제와 침투제를 함께 섞어 물(경수)에 녹인 환원용액을 분무하여 픽업율이 50

Figure kpo00003
5
Figure kpo00004
가 되도록 하고 건조시킨 다음 반응기에 넣고 포르말린 원액과 촉매를 가스화시켜 분사하고 열고정시킨다.That is, picking rate is 50 by spraying the reducing solution dissolved in water (hard water) by mixing the iron and wool with a reducing agent and a penetrant together using a spray.
Figure kpo00003
5
Figure kpo00004
After drying, the mixture is placed in a reactor, and the formalin stock solution and the catalyst are gasified and sprayed and heat-set.

이때에 사용되는 환원제로는 S-S 재결합이 곤란한 반응생성물을 만드는 모노에탄올아민비설파이트(MEABS), 모노에탄올아민설파이트(MEAS), 롱가라이트C(Na·HSO2·CH2O·2H2O), 롱가라이트 Z(Zn·SO2·CH2O·H20)와 SS/SH 교환반응에서 -SH 가 생성되도록 하는 TYCS AN-50을 들수 있다.Reducing agents used at this time include monoethanolamine bisulfite (MEABS), monoethanolamine sulfite (MEAS), and longgarite C (NaHSO 2 CH 2 O 2H 2 O), which make the reaction product difficult to recombine SS. It may deulsu the light Longa Z TYCS aN-50 which is produced in such -SH (Zn · sO 2 · CH 2 O · H 2 0) and SS / SH exchange reaction.

또한 환원제의 픽업율이 55

Figure kpo00005
를 초과하면 과잉반응에 의해 촉감이 딱딱해지고 45
Figure kpo00006
미만인 경우 방추도 개선 효과가 급격히 떨어진다. 또 침투제로는 일반적인 알코올류의 양모용 침투제이면 사용 가능하다.In addition, the pickup rate of the reducing agent is 55
Figure kpo00005
If it exceeds, the sensation becomes hard due to overreaction.
Figure kpo00006
If it is less than, the spindle also greatly improves the effect. Moreover, as a penetrant, it can be used if it is a penetrant for wool of general alcohols.

본 발명의 환원제 중 MEABS, MEAS 및 롱가라이트는 -S-S 재결합이 곤란한 반응생성물을 만들게 되며, TYCS는 -S-S/-SH 교환반응에서 -SH가 유효하게 생성되도록 한다.Among the reducing agents of the present invention, MEABS, MEAS and longgarite make a reaction product difficult to recombine -S-S, and TYCS allows -SH to be effectively produced in the -S-S / -SH exchange reaction.

또한 이 때에 사용하는 경수는 -S-S/-SH 교환반응에서 시스틴결합(cystine bridge)을 절단시키는 촉매 역할을 하게 되고 환원제를 스프레이 한후 충분히 건조시켜 시스테인(-SH)이 남아있도록 한다.In addition, the hard water used at this time acts as a catalyst for cleaving the cystine bridge in the -S-S / -SH exchange reaction, and the cysteine (-SH) remains after drying by spraying the reducing agent.

건조조건은 양모섬유의 열분해의 일으키지 않는 100∼120℃의 범위에서 건조시키는 것이 바람직하다.The drying conditions are preferably dried in the range of 100 to 120 ° C. which does not cause thermal decomposition of the wool fibers.

따라서 본 발명은 숫적으로 많이 생성된 시스테인(-SH)을 포르말린과 촉매(SO2)를 이용하여 강력한 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성하여 외력에 의해서도 잡혀있는 주름이 쉽게 펴지지 않도록 형태안정성을 갖게 되는 것이다.Therefore, the present invention forms a strong methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) using formalin and a catalyst (SO 2 ) to form a large number of cysteine (-SH) produced by the external force is not easily unfolded by the external force It will have form stability.

모직물의 형태안정 가공은 양모섬유 중에 생성된 시스테인(-SH)을 포르말린 원액과 화학결합시켜 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 얻게 되므로 영구 형태안정을 기할 수 있게 된다.Morphological stability of wool is obtained by chemically bonding cysteine (-SH) produced in wool fibers with the formalin stock solution to obtain a methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-), thereby providing permanent morphological stability.

이하 실시예에 의거 본 발명을 구체적으로 상술한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples.

[실시예 1]Example 1

통상적인 울(wool) 가공을 하면서 물리적 방축가공 공정을 거친 모직물을 다림질한 다음 모노에탄올아민비설파이트 100g와 알코올류의 양모용 침투제 50g를 1ℓ의 경수에 녹인 환원용액을 스프레이로 분사하여 50

Figure kpo00007
의 픽업을 유지하도록 한 다음 100∼120℃의 오븐에서 건조시킨 후 반응기에 넣고 포르말린 원액과 SO2가스를 증기상태로 분사시키고 130℃±10℃에서 열고정 하였다.After ironing the wool through the physical preshrunk process during the normal wool processing, 100 g of monoethanolamine bisulfite and 50 g of alcohol penetrant for 50 g of alcohol are sprayed with a spray of reducing solution dissolved in 1 L of hard water.
Figure kpo00007
After maintaining the pickup of the dried in an oven of 100 ~ 120 ℃ and put into the reactor, the formalin stock solution and SO 2 gas was injected in the steam state and heat-fixed at 130 ℃ ± 10 ℃.

이와 같이 하여 플리이트 가공을 한 다음 주름 유지성을 측정한 결과 경,위사 합계 20°의 변형을 나타내었으며 촉감의 변화가 없고 세탁 후 드레이프성은 4.5급을 유지하였다.As a result of the pleating process, the wrinkle retention was measured. As a result, the warp and weft showed a total deformation of 20 °, and there was no change in touch and the drape property was maintained at grade 4.5 after washing.

본 발명은 환원제를 사용하여 양모섬유의 외부에 함유되어 있는 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고, 이를 포르말린 원액을 사용하여 형태 안정성이 큰 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)으로 바꾸므로서 비교적 용이하고 간단하게 잡혀있는 주름이 펴지지 않는 양모섬유의 형태안정성을 향상시킬 수 있어 매우 유용한 플리이트 가공을 이룰 수 있다.The present invention uses a reducing agent to generate a large number of cysteine (-SH) contained in the outside of the wool fibers, using a formalin stock solution to form a high methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) As a result, the shape stability of the wool fibers which are relatively easy and simple to be unfolded can be improved, thereby achieving a very useful pleat processing.

Claims (3)

모직물을 통상의 방법으로 다림질을 한 다음, 환원용액을 모직물에 분사하여 양모섬유의 시스테인(cystein)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고 이를 건조시킨 다음 반응기 내에서 포르말린 원액과 SO2가스를 이용하여 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성함을 특징으로 하는 양모섬유 직물의 플리이트 가공방법.The wool is ironed in a conventional manner, and then a reducing solution is sprayed on the wool to generate a large number of cysteines of wool fibers, and then dried, and then the methylene bond (using formalin stock solution and SO 2 gas) in the reactor. -S-CH 2 -S-) Pleat processing method of the wool fiber fabric characterized in that it forms. 청구항 1에 있어서, 환원용액의 픽업율은 50
Figure kpo00008
5
Figure kpo00009
가 되도록 함을 특징으로 하는 양모섬유 직물의 플리이트 가공방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the pickup rate of the reducing solution is 50
Figure kpo00008
5
Figure kpo00009
Pleat processing method of wool fiber fabric, characterized in that to be. 청구항 1에 있어서, 환원용액은 모노에탄올아민비설파이트, 모노에탄올아민설파이트, 롱가라이트와 L-시스테인을 주성분으로 하는 TYCS AN-50등의 환원제를 알코올류의 침투제와 함께 물에 녹여서 구성됨을 특징으로 하는 양모섬유 직물의 플리이트 가공방법.The reducing solution of claim 1, wherein the reducing solution is composed of a monoethanolamine bisulfite, a monoethanolamine sulfite, and a reducing agent such as TYCS AN-50, whose main components are longgarite and L-cysteine, dissolved in water together with a penetrating agent of alcohol. The pleat processing method of the wool fiber fabric which uses.
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