KR100216964B1 - Shape retention finishing method using reduction agent - Google Patents
Shape retention finishing method using reduction agent Download PDFInfo
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- KR100216964B1 KR100216964B1 KR1019970024065A KR19970024065A KR100216964B1 KR 100216964 B1 KR100216964 B1 KR 100216964B1 KR 1019970024065 A KR1019970024065 A KR 1019970024065A KR 19970024065 A KR19970024065 A KR 19970024065A KR 100216964 B1 KR100216964 B1 KR 100216964B1
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- wool
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- processing method
- cysteine
- reducing agent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/137—Acetals, e.g. formals, or ketals
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 모직물의 건, 습방추도 개선을 위하여 환원제와 포르말린 원액을 이용하는 가공방법으로서, 환원제와 침투제를 물에 녹인 환원용액을 모직물에 분사하여 픽업율이 505되게 하여 양모섬유 중의 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고 건조시킨 다음 포르말린 원액과 SO2가스를 이용하여 시스테인(-SH)을 메틸렌 결합(S-CH2-S) 시키고 열고정9시킴으로서 강력한 형태안정성을 부여하여 외력에 의한 구김이나 주름이 발생하지 않게 하는 모직물의 형태안정화 가공방법 .The present invention is a processing method using a reducing agent and a formalin stock solution to improve the dryness and wet dampness of wool, and the pick-up rate is 50 by spraying a reducing solution dissolved in water with a reducing agent and a penetrant. 5 It generates a large amount of cysteine (-SH) in wool fiber and dries it, and then forms a strong methylene bond (S-CH 2 -S) and heat-set 9 cysteine (-SH) using formalin stock solution and SO 2 gas. Form stabilization processing method of woolen fabric which gives shape stability and prevents wrinkles and wrinkles caused by external force.
Description
본 발명은 모직물의 건,습,방추도 개선을 위한 환원제를 이용하는 형태안정화 가공방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 양모중에 생성된 시스테인(cystein)을 포르말린 원액과 화학 결합시켜 외력에 의한 변형이 비교적 어려운 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성케 함으로써 건조 또는 흡습상태에서 구김이 잘 생기지 않는 모직물의 형태안정 가공방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a shape stabilization processing method using a reducing agent for improving the dryness, wetness, and spindle degree of wool. More specifically, the cysteine produced in wool is chemically bonded with the formalin solution to relatively deform by external force. By forming a difficult methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) relates to a method of stabilizing the wool of the wool is less likely to wrinkle in the dry or hygroscopic state.
모제품은 탄성회복율이 타섬유에 비하여 우수하므로 건조상태에서 착용시 생긴 구김이나 주름은 일정한 시간동안 행거에 걸어두면 펴지지만 젖은 상태에서 생긴 구김이나 주름은 건조 후에도 잔주름으로 남게 되어 외관상 미려하지 못한 결점이 있다. 이는 양모섬유의 크림프와 흡습/방습 할때의 신축성에 기인한 것으로, 종래에도 양모섬유에 대하여는 형태안전성을 부여하기 위하여 여러가지 방추가공(Antic-crease finishing)과 플리이트 가공(pleating finishing)등이 개발되어 왔다.Since the parent product has better elastic recovery rate than other fibers, wrinkles and wrinkles caused when worn in a dry state are stretched when hanged on a hanger for a certain period of time, but wrinkles or wrinkles caused by wet conditions remain as fine wrinkles even after drying. There is this. This is due to the crimp of wool fibers and elasticity when moisture absorption / moisture-proof. In the past, various anti-crease finishing and pleating finishing have been developed to give shape safety to wool fibers. Has been.
특히 구김이나 잔주름의 회복성을 향상시키기 위해서는 탈아미노화, 아세틸화 및 메틸화 등에 의해 반응성 측쇄극성기를 이용하는 화학적 방법이 공지되고 있으나 이 방법은 친수성 저하로 주름이나 구김의 회복성 향상은 기대할 수 있으나 섬유의 물성을 악화시키는 폐단이 있었다.In particular, to improve the recovery of wrinkles and fine wrinkles, a chemical method using a reactive side chain polar group by deamination, acetylation, and methylation is known, but this method can be expected to improve the recovery of wrinkles or wrinkles due to the decrease in hydrophilicity. There was a defect that worsened the physical properties.
또한 어닐링(annealing)에 의한 구김의 회복성 향상이 시도되고 있으며 특히 다관능성 페놀과 멜라민 처리후 파라-포름알데히드의 존재하에서 어닐링하는 방법이 모직물의 형태안정화에 크게 기여하고 있으나, 이 경우 섬유의 인열강도, 굴곡마찰, 표면 마찰이 현저히 감소되므로 촉감이 나빠지는 결함이 있다.In addition, an attempt has been made to improve the recovery of wrinkles by annealing, and in particular, the method of annealing in the presence of para-formaldehyde after polyfunctional phenol and melamine treatment greatly contributes to the stabilization of the wool. Thermal strength, bending friction, and surface friction are significantly reduced, resulting in a poor touch.
상기 이외에도 방추성이 우수한 소재(강연사)를 사용하는 방법과 표면탄성체인 천연 고분자 물질을 부착 사용하는 방법 등이 광범위하게 이용되고 있다.In addition to the above, a method of using a material having excellent spindle property (wound yarn) and a method of attaching and using a natural polymer material, which is a surface elastic body, have been widely used.
모직물은 일반적으로 세탁시 또는 땀으로 젖은 상태에서 즉 상대습도가 증가할 수록 주름이나 구김 발생이 증가되며 이와 같은 주름은 건조후에도 계속 남게 된다.Woolen fabrics generally have wrinkles or creases when washed or sweated, that is, relative humidity increases, and these wrinkles remain after drying.
따라서 본 발명은 뛰어난 형태안정 효과를 부여하여 착용 및 세탁시 주름이 잘 잡히지 않는 모직물의 가공방법을 얻기 위하여 모직물을 평평한 상태에서 환원제로 처리하여 양모섬유 중에 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고 여기에 포르말린과 SO2가스를 이용하여 강력한 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성시켜 건조시 외력에 의해서 주름이나 구김이 잘 생기지 않도록 한다.Therefore, the present invention provides a number of cysteine (-SH) in the wool fiber by treating the wool with a reducing agent in a flat state to obtain a processing method of the wool is not wrinkled during wearing and washing to give excellent shape stability effect In addition, formalin and SO 2 gas are used to form a strong methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) to prevent wrinkles or wrinkles caused by external force during drying.
즉 모직물을 평평하게 펴 놓은 상태에서 스프레이를 이용하여 환원제와 침투제를 함께 섞어 물(경수)에 녹인 환원용액을 분무하여 픽업율이 505가 되도록 하고 건조시킨 다음 반응기에 넣고 포르말린 원액과 촉매를 가스화 시켜 분사하고 열고정시킨다.In other words, in the state of flattening the woolen fabric, the reducing agent and the penetrant are mixed together by spraying and spraying the reducing solution dissolved in water (hard water). 5 After drying, the mixture is placed in a reactor, and the formalin stock solution and the catalyst are gasified to spray and heat-set.
이때에 사용되는 환원제로는 모노에탄올아민 비설파이트(MEABS), 모노에탄올아민설파이트(MEAS), 롱가라이트 C(Na·HSO2·CH2O·2H2O), 롱가라이트 Z(Zn·SO2·CH2O·H20)와 L-시스테인을 주성분으로 하는 TYCS AN-50을 들수 있다.Reducing agents used at this time include monoethanolamine bisulfite (MEABS), monoethanolamine sulfite (MEAS), longgarite C (NaHSO 2 CH 2 O 2H 2 O), longgarite Z (ZnSO 2 · CH may deulsu the 2 O · H 2 0) and TYCS aN-50 as a main component L- cysteine.
또한 환원제의 픽업율이 55를 초과하면 과잉반응에 의해 촉감이 딱딱해지고 45미만인 경우 방추도 개선 효과가 급격히 떨어진다. 또 침투제로는 일반적인 알코올류의 양모용 침투제이면 사용 가능하다.In addition, the pickup rate of the reducing agent is 55 If it exceeds, the sensation becomes hard due to overreaction. If it is less than, the spindle also greatly improves the effect. Moreover, as a penetrant, it can be used if it is a penetrant for wool of general alcohols.
본 발명의 환원제 중 MEABS, MEAS 및 롱가라이트는 -S-S 재결합이 곤란한 반응생성물을 만들게 되며, TYCS는 -S-S/-SH 교환반응에서 -SH가 유효하게 생성되도록 한다.Among the reducing agents of the present invention, MEABS, MEAS and longgarite make a reaction product difficult to recombine -S-S, and TYCS allows -SH to be effectively produced in the -S-S / -SH exchange reaction.
또한 이 때에 사용하는 경수는 -S-S/-SH 교환반응에서 시스틴결합(cystine bridge)을 절단시키는 촉매 역할을 하게 되고 환원제를 스프레이한 후 충분히 건조시켜 시스테인(-SH)이 남아있도록 한다.In addition, the hard water used at this time acts as a catalyst for cleaving the cystine bridge in the -S-S / -SH exchange reaction, and is sufficiently dried after spraying the reducing agent so that the cysteine (-SH) remains.
따라서 본 발명은 숫적으로 많이 생성된 시스테인(-SH)을 포르말린과 촉매(SO2)를 이용하여 강력한 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 형성하여 외력에 의해서도 주름이나 구김이 잘 생기지 않는 형태안정성을 갖게 되는 것이다.Therefore, the present invention forms a strong methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) using formalin and a catalyst (SO 2 ) to form a large number of cysteine (-SH) generated by the external force is not wrinkles or wrinkles well even by external force It does not have form stability.
모직물의 형태안정 가공은 양모섬유 중에 생성된 시스테인(-SH)을 포르말린 원액과 화학결합시켜 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)을 얻게 되므로 영구 형태안정을 기할 수 있게 된다.Morphological stability of wool is obtained by chemically bonding cysteine (-SH) produced in wool fibers with the formalin stock solution to obtain a methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-), thereby providing permanent morphological stability.
이하 실시예에 의거 본 발명을 구체적으로 상술한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples.
[실시예 1]Example 1
통상적인 울(wool) 가공을 하면서 물리적 방축가공 공정을 거친 모직물을 모노에탄올 아민비설파이트 100g와 알코올류의 양모용 침투제 50g를 1ℓ의 경수에 녹인 환원용액을 스프레이로 분사하여 50의 픽업을 유지하도록 한 다음 100∼120℃의 오븐에서 건조시킨 후 반응기에 넣고 포르말린 원액과 SO2가스를 증기상태(vapor)로 분사시키고 130℃±10℃에서 열고정 하였다.100% of monoethanol amine bisulfite and 50 g of alcohol penetrating agent in 1 liter of hard water are sprayed on a wool fabric which has undergone a physical preshrink processing process with a conventional wool process by spraying 50 After maintaining the pickup of the dried in an oven of 100 ~ 120 ℃ and put into the reactor, formalin and SO 2 gas was injected into the vapor (vapor) and heat-set at 130 ℃ ± 10 ℃.
이와 같이 하여 얻은 모직물의 구김 회복성을 측정한 결과 경,위사 합계 94,4의 회복율을 나타내었으며 촉감의 변화가 없고 세탁 후 드레이프성은 4.5급을 유지하였다.As a result of measuring the wrinkle recovery of the wool obtained in this way, the total warp and weft yarn 94,4 It showed recovery rate of, and maintained no grade of change and drape property after washing.
본 발명은 환원제를 사용하여 양모섬유의 외부에 함유되어 있는 시스테인(-SH)을 숫적으로 많이 생성시키고, 이를 포르말린 원액을 사용하여 형태 안정성이 큰 메틸렌 결합(-S-CH2-S-)으로 바꾸므로서 비교적 용이하고 간단하게 양모섬유의 건,습방추도를 향상시킬 수 있어 매우 유용한 양모섬유의 방추가공을 이룰수 있다.The present invention uses a reducing agent to generate a large number of cysteine (-SH) contained in the outside of the wool fibers, using a formalin stock solution to form a high methylene bond (-S-CH 2 -S-) By changing the relatively easy and simple to improve the dryness and wetness of the wool fibers, it is possible to form a very useful wool fibers.
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