KR0174133B1 - Method for producing polyester and acetate conjugated woven fabric - Google Patents
Method for producing polyester and acetate conjugated woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- KR0174133B1 KR0174133B1 KR1019960028524A KR19960028524A KR0174133B1 KR 0174133 B1 KR0174133 B1 KR 0174133B1 KR 1019960028524 A KR1019960028524 A KR 1019960028524A KR 19960028524 A KR19960028524 A KR 19960028524A KR 0174133 B1 KR0174133 B1 KR 0174133B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8276—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/16—Physical properties antistatic; conductive
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 온유한 광택과 드레이프성이 우수하고 흡수성, 제전성이 뛰어난 아세테이트 섬유와 치수 안정성과 열적 안정성이 뛰어난 변성 폴리에스테르 섬유를 복합하여 얻은 복합사로 제직한 폴리에스테르/아세테이트 복합직물의 염색성을 균일하게 하는 복합직물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 그 기술 구성은 아세테이트를 방사하여 권취하면서 인터레이싱 노즐 직전에 하기 구조식(1)과 같은 금속염 설포네이트와 폴리알킬렌 글리콜이 공중합된 변성 폴리에스테르를 진입시키고 300m/분 이하의 속도로 복합권취 하면서 유제 부착량 2.0~4.0%로 하고, 인터레이싱 공기 압력을 1.5~3.0㎏/㎠로 하여 공기 교락 시킴을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르/아세테이트 복합 직물 제조 및 염가공 방법으로 본 발명에 의하면, 상압하에서 동색으로 염색이 가능하고 이것을 경위사로 하는 직물은 우수한 촉감 및 청량감과 드레이프성, 제전성이 우수한 복합 직물을 얻을 수 있는 것이다.DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides uniform dyeing of polyester / acetate composite fabrics woven with a composite yarn obtained by combining acetate fibers with gentle luster, drape, absorbent and antistatic properties, and modified polyester fibers with excellent dimensional and thermal stability. The present invention relates to a method for producing a composite fabric, the technical configuration of which is introduced into a modified polyester copolymerized with a metal salt sulfonate and a polyalkylene glycol such as the structural formula (1) immediately before the interlacing nozzle while spinning and spinning acetate. Polyester / acetate composite fabric manufacturing and salt processing method characterized in that the amount of emulsion deposition is 2.0 ~ 4.0% while the composite winding at a speed of 300m / min or less and the interlacing air pressure is 1.5 ~ 3.0㎏ / ㎠ According to the present invention, it is possible to dye the same color under normal pressure Weft fabric that is soft and has excellent refreshing and drape, antistatic properties can be obtained excellent composite fabric.
여기서, R은 탄소수 1-20개의 알킬기 또는 아릴기이고, M은 알칼리 금속 또는 알칼리 토금속이다.Here, R is an alkyl or aryl group having 1-20 carbon atoms, and M is an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal.
Description
본 발명은 아세테이트를 방사, 권취하면서 인터레이싱 노즐 직전에서 하기 구조식(1)과 같은 금속염 설포네이트와 폴리알킬렌글리콜이 공중합된 변성 폴리에스테르사와 복합하여 얻은 복합사를 경위사로 하여 제직한 균염성이 우수한 폴리에스테르/아세테이트 복합 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention provides a uniform weaving agent using a composite yarn obtained by combining a modified polyester yarn copolymerized with a metal salt sulfonate and a polyalkylene glycol such as Structural Formula (1) immediately before the interlacing nozzle while spinning and winding acetate. A method for producing a superior polyester / acetate composite fabric.
여기서, R은 탄소수 1-20개의 알킬기 또는 아릴기이고,Wherein R is an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group,
M은 알칼리 금속 또는 알칼리 토금속이다.M is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal.
일반적으로 아세테이트는 은은한 광택과 드레이프성이 우수하고 흡수성, 제전성 등이 우수하며, 쾌적성을 갖는 장점이 있으나, 치수 안정성과 열적 안정성이 취약한 단점이 있으므로 폴리에스테르와 복합할 경우 이러한 단점을 보완할 수 있다. 그러나, 아세테이트와 폴리에스테르를 복합할 경우, 극복하기 어려운 문제점으로는 염색시 동일한 톤을 낼 수 없다는 것이다. 일반적으로 아세테이트, 특히 디아세테이트의 경우, 분산염료 염색시 염착온도는 75-80℃이나, 폴리에스테르의 염착온도는 120~130℃이므로, 염색온도 범위의 차이가 너무 큰 것이다. 따라서, 동일한 톤을 내기 위하여 폴리에스테르의 결정 구조를 이완 시키고 상압에서 염색이 가능한 폴리에스테르 제조 기술의 도입이 필요하였다.In general, acetate has the advantage of soft gloss and drape, excellent absorbency and antistatic properties, and comfort. However, acetate has a disadvantage in weak dimensional stability and thermal stability, so it can compensate for these disadvantages when combined with polyester. Can be. However, in the case of combining acetate and polyester, a difficult problem to overcome is that the same tone cannot be produced during dyeing. In general, in the case of acetate, in particular diacetate, the dyeing temperature in the dyeing disperse dye is 75-80 ℃, the dyeing temperature of the polyester is 120 ~ 130 ℃, so the difference in the dyeing temperature range is too large. Therefore, in order to produce the same tone, it was necessary to introduce a polyester manufacturing technology that can relax the crystal structure of the polyester and dye at normal pressure.
이에 폴리에스테르 사슬에 음이온기를 도입하여 양이온 염료와 쉽게 결합할 수 있게 하려는 시도로서 상기 구조식(1)의 금속염 설포네이트기를 포함하고 있는 화합물을 공중합 시키고, 공중합시 금속염 설포네이트기의 점성이 증가하여 높은 용융점도를 가지므로 방사성을 향상시키기 위하여 폴리알킬렌글리콜 성분을 첨가하여 상압하에서도 염착량이 우수한 변성 폴리에스테르를 얻는다. 이렇게 하여 제조된 변성 폴리에스테르를 아세테이트 방사, 권취시 인터레이싱 노즐 직전에 진입시킨 다음, 300m/min 이하의 속도로 복합 권취 한다. 권취시 모우 발생방지와 교략의 안정성을 위하여 유제를 부착시키되, 유제의 부착량을 2-4%로 하여 인터레이싱한다. 유제의 부착량이 2% 미만일 경우 교락시 발생하는 복합사의 모우 발생 저지 및 교락의 안정성을 도모하기 어렵고, 4%를 초과하는 경우는 권취시 불안정하게 되고, 직물 전개 후 정련이 잘 안되는 결점이 있으며, 복합사의 제조 단가가 높아지는 등의 단점이 있다. 또한, 공기 압력은 1.5-3.0㎏/㎠으로 하여 교락시키는 데 1.5㎏/㎠ 미만인 경우 교락 횟수 및 교락 자체가 불량하며, 3.0㎏/㎠를 초과하면 모우 발생 등의 문제점이 발생하게 된다.In an attempt to easily combine with cationic dyes by introducing an anionic group to the polyester chain to copolymerize the compound containing a metal salt sulfonate group of the above formula (1), the viscosity of the metal salt sulfonate group increases during copolymerization Since it has a melt viscosity, a polyalkylene glycol component is added in order to improve radioactivity to obtain a modified polyester having excellent dyeing amount even under normal pressure. The modified polyester thus prepared is introduced immediately before the interlacing nozzles during acetate spinning and winding, and then composite wound at a speed of 300 m / min or less. In order to prevent the occurrence of cows during winding and stability of tricks, oil is attached, but the amount of oil is 2 to 4% interlaced. If the adhesion amount of emulsion is less than 2%, it is difficult to prevent the occurrence of woolen yarn and the stability of the entangled composite yarn, and if it exceeds 4%, it becomes unstable at the time of winding, and there is a drawback that is not well refined after fabric development. There are disadvantages such as increased manufacturing cost of the composite yarn. In addition, the air pressure is 1.5-3.0kg / ㎠ to entangle when less than 1.5kg / ㎠, the number of times of entanglement and the entanglement itself is poor, and if more than 3.0kg / ㎠ occurs problems such as the generation of moor.
이렇게 제조된 복합사를 가지고 직물로 전개할 때 연사물이 아닌 사이징물로 전개하는 것이 바람직 하다. 이는 아세테이트의 저수축율 특성과 폴리에스테르의 고수축율 특성의 이수축성을 활용하여 촉감을 우수하게 하기 위한 것이다. 경사는 아세테이트 75d/36f와 상압에서 염색 가능하게 제조된 변성 폴리에스테르 50d/24f를 위에서 언급한 바와 같은 방식으로 복합하여 제조된 것을 사용하고, 총경사 본수 7600본으로 하고, 사이징하여 사용한다. 제직폭은 50인치로 하여 제직한다. 위사는 경사와 동일한 원사를 사용하되 직물의 탄력성과 드레이프성을 고려하여 1미터당 1500개의 꼬임을 주고 밀도는 70-80본/인치로 설계하여 제직 하는데 70본 미만이면 생지 상태에서 슬립 현상이 발생하며, 85본 초과시는 제직 작업성에 무리가 따른다.It is preferable to develop the sizing material, not the twisted yarn, when the composite yarn is manufactured in this way. This is to make excellent touch by utilizing the low shrinkage property of acetate and the high shrinkage property of polyester. The warp yarn was prepared by combining acetate 75d / 36f with modified polyester 50d / 24f prepared at normal pressure in the same manner as mentioned above. Weaving width is 50 inches. Weft yarns use the same yarn as the warp yarn, but weave 1500 twists per meter in consideration of the elasticity and drape of the fabric. In the case of more than 85 copies, weaving is unreasonable.
이렇게 제직된 직물을 다음과 같은 조건으로 가공한다.The woven fabric is processed under the following conditions.
먼저 정련 작업은 릴렉서를 사용하여 80-90℃에서 20분간 처리한 뒤 액류식 정련기를 사용하여 90-100℃에서 30분간 처리하여 천천히 냉각시켜 촉감 발현을 최대로 하고, 주름 발생을 최소로 한다. 만약 기존의 폴리에스테르 정련처럼 로타리 워셔를 사용할 경우 주름 발생 및 터치 발현 약화 등의 문제점이 발생하게 되므로 위와 같은 방법으로 가공하는 것이 바람직하다. 프리셋팅 온도는 140-160℃로 하는데, 140℃ 이하로 하면 가공 후 직물의 주름 발생이 많아지는 등의 문제가 발생하고, 160℃ 이상으로 하면 촉감이 급격히 저하되는 등의 문제점이 발생한다. 알카리 감량 공정은 아세테이트의 검화 문제 때문에 생략한다. 염색은 분산염료를 사용하여 온도를 80-90℃ 온도 범위에서 60분간 염색한다. 만약, 염색 온도를 80℃ 이하로 할 경우는 폴리에스테르의 염착량이 아세테이트의 염착량보다 급격히 낮아 두 가지 톤의 색상이 발현되며, 90℃ 이상에서 염색할 경우는 폴리에스테르의 염착량이 아세테이트의 염착량보다 많아져 역시 동일한 톤의 색상이 발현되기 어렵게 된다.First, the refining work is performed for 20 minutes at 80-90 ℃ using a relaxer and then slowly cooled at 90-100 ℃ for 30 minutes using a liquid-type refiner to maximize the appearance of touch and minimize the occurrence of wrinkles. . If rotary washers are used like conventional polyester refining, problems such as wrinkle generation and touch expression deterioration occur, so it is preferable to process the above method. The preset temperature is 140-160 ° C., when the temperature is 140 ° C. or less, problems such as wrinkles of the fabric increase after processing, and when the temperature is 160 ° C. or more, the touch is sharply lowered. Alkali weight loss processes are omitted due to the saponification problem of acetate. Dyeing is done using a disperse dye to increase the temperature to 80-90 ℃ Stain for 60 minutes in the temperature range. If the dyeing temperature is lower than 80 ℃, the dyeing amount of polyester is sharply lower than the dyeing amount of acetate to express two tones of color, and when dying at 90 ℃ or more, the dyeing amount of the polyester dyeing amount of acetate It becomes more and more difficult to express the same tone color.
이하 실시예를 통하여 본 발명에 관하여 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples.
[실시예 1]Example 1
폴리에스테르와 아세테이트 복합사를 제조하는데 있어서, 방사하여 얻은 75d/36f의 아세테이트사를 권취하면서 인터레이싱 노즐 직전에 상기 구조식 (1)의 화합물을 갖는 50d/24f의 변성 폴리에스테르사를 진입시킨 다음 300m/분 이하의 속도로 복합 권취하면서 유제 부착량을 3.0%로 하고 인터레이싱 공기 압력을 3.0㎏/㎠로 하여 제조한 복합사를 사용하여 총경사 본수 7600본으로 하고, 사이징하여 사용하고, 조직은 평직으로, 제직폭은 50인치로 하여 제직했다. 위사는 경사와 동일한 원사를 사용하고 1500개의 꼬임을 주어 준비한 뒤, 밀도를 75본으로 하여 제직한다. 염가공시 정련작업은 릴레서를 사용하여 80℃에서 20분간 처리한 뒤 역류식 정련기를 사용하여 90℃에서 30분간 처리하며, 프리셋팅 온도는 150℃로 처리하고, 염색은 분산 염료 Miketon Red FB를 2%(o.w.f) 사용하여 온도 90℃에서 60분간 염색하고 마지막 열셋팅 온도를 130℃로 처리하여 가공지를 얻은 뒤 염착량을 비교하여 제직성, 균염성, 촉감, 주름성, 주름 안정성 및 동일톤 발현 여부 등을 측정하여 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.In preparing the polyester and acetate composite yarn, 50d / 24f modified polyester yarn having the compound of the above formula (1) was introduced immediately before the interlacing nozzle while winding 75d / 36f of acetate yarn obtained by spinning, followed by 300m Using a composite yarn made with a composite winding at 3.0% / min and an interlacing air pressure of 3.0 kg / cm 2 at a rate of not more than / min, the total inclined head count was 7600 pieces, and the sizing was used. Weaving width was 50 inches. Weft yarns are prepared with the same yarns as warp yarns and twisted with 1500 twists. In salt processing, the refining process is performed for 20 minutes at 80 ℃ using a reeler and then for 30 minutes at 90 ℃ using a countercurrent refiner. The preset temperature is treated at 150 ℃, and the dyeing is performed by dispersing dye Miketon Red FB. Dyeing at 90 ° C for 60 minutes using% (owf) and processing the final heat setting temperature at 130 ° C to obtain processed paper and comparing dyeing amounts. Weaving, leveling, hand, wrinkle, wrinkle stability and same tone expression Whether or not was measured and the results are shown in Table 1.
[실시예 2~5]EXAMPLES 2-5
[비교예 1~8][Comparative Examples 1-8]
경ㆍ위사의 종류, 복합사 제조시 유제량과 공기압, 릴렉서 사용여부, 프리셋팅 온도를 변경한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1에서 행한 것과 동일하게 실시하여, 그 결과를 표 1에 나타내었다.The results were shown in Table 1, except that the types of hard and weft yarns, the amount of oil and air pressure, the use of a relaxer, and the presetting temperature were changed.
범례Legend
양호 : ○ 보통 : △ 불량 : ⅩGood: ○ Normal: △ Bad: Ⅹ
* 평가 방법* Assessment Methods
1) 제직성1) Weaving
육안에 의하여 평가하였다.Evaluation by visual observation.
2) 균염성, 동일톤 발현 여부2) homogeneity
염착량은 사용한 분산 염료를 피리딘으로 용해하여 소정의 농도로 검량 곡선을 작성한 뒤, 피염물을 피리딘으로 속슬레 추출기로 추출한 다음, 그 추출액을 UV-가시 분광측광기를 이용해서 흡광도를 구한 뒤, 그 흡광도로 부터 피염물의 염착량을 검량 곡선으로부터 산출하였다.The dyeing amount is obtained by dissolving the used disperse dye with pyridine, creating a calibration curve at a predetermined concentration, extracting the salt with pyridine with a Soxhlet extractor, and then extracting the extract using a UV-visible spectrophotometer. The dyeing amount of the salt from the absorbance was calculated from the calibration curve.
3) 촉감3) tactile
일본의 가와바타 시스템 기기(KES-FB SYSTEM)로 나온 결과를 근거로 해서 평가 하였다.The evaluation was based on the results obtained from the Japanese Kawabata System (KES-FB SYSTEM).
4) 주름성4) Wrinkle
KS 규격 K0556에 의거하여 측정 하였으며, 판정은 주름성을 5급 (주름성이 큼)에서 1급 (주름성이 가장 작음)까지의 5단계로 표시한 표준 사진과 비교하였다.Measurements were made in accordance with KS Standard K0556, and the judgment was compared with the standard photographs with 5 levels ranging from grade 5 (largest wrinkles) to grade 1 (smallest wrinkles).
5) 주름 안정성5) Wrinkle Stability
육안에 의하여 평가하였다.Evaluation by visual observation.
이상에서와 같이 본 발명에 따른 폴리에스테르/아세테이트 복합직물의 제조방법에 의하면 상압하에서 동색으로 염색이 가능하고, 우수한 촉감과 청량감, 드레이프성 및 제전성이 우수한 폴리에스테르/아세테이트 복합직물을 얻을 수 있다.As described above, according to the method of manufacturing the polyester / acetate composite fabric according to the present invention, it is possible to dye the same color under normal pressure, and to obtain a polyester / acetate composite fabric having excellent touch and cooling feeling, drape and antistatic properties. .
Claims (5)
Priority Applications (1)
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KR1019960028524A KR0174133B1 (en) | 1996-07-15 | 1996-07-15 | Method for producing polyester and acetate conjugated woven fabric |
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KR1019960028524A KR0174133B1 (en) | 1996-07-15 | 1996-07-15 | Method for producing polyester and acetate conjugated woven fabric |
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KR980009574A KR980009574A (en) | 1998-04-30 |
KR0174133B1 true KR0174133B1 (en) | 1999-02-18 |
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KR100472386B1 (en) * | 2001-11-22 | 2005-03-08 | 에스케이케미칼주식회사 | Method of producing cellulose fibers by use of consecutive Alkali treatment |
CN112647326B (en) * | 2019-10-09 | 2024-02-02 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Fabric |
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