KR0128984B1 - Manufacturing process of neo-silky wool yarn - Google Patents
Manufacturing process of neo-silky wool yarnInfo
- Publication number
- KR0128984B1 KR0128984B1 KR1019940025956A KR19940025956A KR0128984B1 KR 0128984 B1 KR0128984 B1 KR 0128984B1 KR 1019940025956 A KR1019940025956 A KR 1019940025956A KR 19940025956 A KR19940025956 A KR 19940025956A KR 0128984 B1 KR0128984 B1 KR 0128984B1
- Authority
- KR
- South Korea
- Prior art keywords
- wool
- spinning
- dyeing
- raw material
- water
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01C—CHEMICAL OR BIOLOGICAL TREATMENT OF NATURAL FILAMENTARY OR FIBROUS MATERIAL TO OBTAIN FILAMENTS OR FIBRES FOR SPINNING; CARBONISING RAGS TO RECOVER ANIMAL FIBRES
- D01C3/00—Treatment of animal material, e.g. chemical scouring of wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/14—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
Abstract
Description
[발명의 명칭][Name of invention]
네오실키(Nesosilky)양모사 및 그 제조방법Neosilky wool yarn and manufacturing method thereof
[발명의 상세한 설명]Detailed description of the invention
[발명의 분야][Field of Invention]
본 발명은 네오실키(Neosilky)양모사의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing Neosilky wool.
보다 구체적으로 본 발명은 양모의 스케일(scale)을 완전히 제거하여 방축성을 갖고 부드럽고 광택효과를 갖는 기계편직용 원사로 사용되는 네오실키 양모사의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a neosilki wool yarn which is used as a machine knitting yarn having a softness and a gloss effect by completely removing the scale of the wool.
[발명의 배경][Background of invention]
종래의 기편사용 네오실키 양모사는 원료가공, 염색, 방적, 및 편직 가공의 전 생산공정에 대한 충분한 검토가 부족하여 품질 불량, 편직성(Knitability), 색상 등에 많은 문제점을 내포하고 있었다. 종래의 기계편직용 소모사를 제조하는 경우에는 양모원료를 처리하여 양모의 촉감을 부드럽게 하는 제조방법을 이용하고 있다.Conventional knitting yarn neosilki wool yarns have a lot of problems such as poor quality, knitability, color due to the lack of sufficient review of the entire production process of raw material processing, dyeing, spinning, and knitting processing. In the case of manufacturing conventional worsted yarn for machine knitting, a manufacturing method for treating the wool material to soften the feel of wool is used.
기계편직용 원사로 사용되는 네오실키 양모사는 부드러운 촉감을 유지하여야하고, 네노실키 양모사의 제품이 물세탁할 수 있어야 하며, 편직성 및 편직원단 외관이 양호하기 위하여 양모사의 균제도(Eveness)와 강도가 우수하여야 한다. 또한 은은한 광택을 유지하여야 하고, 땀의 흡수 및 발산이 양호하게 되도록 흡수성 및 발산성이 우수하여야 하고, 염색성이 좋아야 하고, 나염효과와 초발수 가공성이 우수하여야 하고, 유연제 처리가 용이하여야 한다.Neosilki wool used as a machine knitting yarn should maintain a soft touch, and the product of NESILKI wool can be washed with water, and the uniformity and strength of wool is good for knitting and good appearance of the knitting fabric. Must be excellent In addition, it should maintain a soft gloss, and be excellent in absorbency and divergence so that sweat absorption and divergence is good, good dyeing property, excellent printing property and super water-repellent workability, and easy softener treatment.
상기와 같은 네오실키 양모사의 특성을 유지하기 위하여 본 발명자는 양모원료의 가공공정, 염색공정 및 방적공정을 개선한 본 발명의 제조방법을 개발하기에 이른 것이다.In order to maintain the characteristics of the neo-silky wool yarn as described above, the present inventors have come to develop a manufacturing method of the present invention improved the processing process, dyeing process and spinning process of wool raw materials.
[발명의 목적][Purpose of invention]
본 발명의 목적은 부드러운 촉감을 유지하고 물세탁이 가능하며 편직성 및 편직원단 외관이 양호한 네오실키 양모사를 제조하는 제조방법을 제공하기 위한 것이다.An object of the present invention is to provide a manufacturing method for producing a neosilki wool yarn that can maintain a soft touch, washable water and good knitting and appearance of knitted fabric.
본 발명의 다른 목적은 실크나 캐시미어와 같은 은은한 광택을 유지하고, 흡습성 및 발수성이 우수하며, 염색성이 양호한 네오실키 양모사를 제조하는 제조방법을 제공하기 위한 것이다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a manufacturing method for producing a neosilki wool yarn that maintains a soft luster, such as silk or cashmere, has excellent hygroscopicity and water repellency, and has good dyeability.
본 발명의 또 다른 목적은 나염효과와 초발수 가공성이 우수하고 유연제 처리가 용이한 네오실키 양모사를 제조하는 제조방법을 제공하기 위한 것이다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a manufacturing method for producing a neosilki wool yarn excellent in the printing effect, super water-repellent workability and easy to process softener.
본 발명의 또 다른 목적은 화학 수지를 양모에 코팅시키지 않은 네오실키 양모사를 제조하는 방법을 제공하기 위한 것이다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a neosilki wool yarn without coating the chemical resin on the wool.
[발명의 요약][Summary of invention]
본 발명의 네오실키 양모사의 제조방법은 양모원료의 가공공정, 염색공정 및 방적공정을 개선한 것으로, 양모원료의 가공공정은 염소처리단계, 탈염소단계, 수세단계, 유연제처리단계, 및 건조단계로 이루어지며, 염색공정은 톱(Top)의 경화를 방지하고 섬유손상을 최소화하도록 조제, 염료, 후처리제, 견뢰도 증진제, 유연제, 및 방충제를 하나의 염색솥에서 행하며, 방적공정은 방적 유제로서 대전방지성이 있는 유제만을 사용하고 포합성 증진제는 사용하지 않는다.The manufacturing method of the neo-silky wool yarn of the present invention is to improve the processing process, dyeing process and spinning process of the wool raw material, the processing process of the wool raw material chlorine treatment step, dechlorination step, washing step, softener treatment step, and drying step The dyeing process consists of preparation, dye, aftertreatment, fastness enhancer, softener, and insect repellent in one dyeing pot to prevent top hardening and minimize fiber damage. Use only oils that are protective and do not use compatibility enhancers.
유연제 처리단계에서 사용되는 실리콘계 유연제 대신에 대전방지제를 사용하며, 염색공정에서는 양모원료의 세팅(setting)을 방지하기 위하여 저온 염색법으로 과산화수소를 사용하고, 방적공정에서는 대전 방지성이 있는 유제만을 사용한다.An antistatic agent is used instead of the silicone softener used in the softening agent treatment step. In the dyeing process, hydrogen peroxide is used as a low temperature dyeing method to prevent setting of wool raw materials. In the spinning process, only an antistatic agent is used. .
[발명의 구체예에 대한 상세한 설명]Detailed Description of the Invention
종래의 기계편직용 소모사를 제조하는 경우에는 양모원료를 염소로 처리하여 양모 표면의 스케일을 일부 제거하고 그 표면에 화학 수지를 코팅한 후 유연제를 처리하여 양모의 촉감을 부드럽게 하는 제조방법을 이용하고 있다.In the case of manufacturing a conventional worsted yarn for machine knitting, the raw material is treated with chlorine to remove some scale of the surface of the wool, and the chemical resin is coated on the surface, and then the softening agent is used to soften the feel of the wool. have.
그러나 이 때 양모의 스케일을 일부만 제거하지 않고 거의 완전히 제거하면 화학수지를 코팅하지 않아도 방축효과를 양호하게 된다. 그러나 이 때 스케일이 완전히 벗겨진 양모섬유에 적절한 표면처리를 하지 않으면 껍질이 벗겨진 피부와 같아서 섬유상호간에 달라붙어서 건조후에 섬유속(纖維束)이 견고하게 되어 다음공정에서의 작업이 거의 불가능한 상태가 된다. 또한 이 경우에 실리콘계의 유연제를 사용하여 양모표면을 부드럽고 유연하게 처리할 경우 섬유간의 마찰계수를 저하시키는 결과가 초래되어 궁극적으로 섬유 속의 표합력이 낮아져서 방적성이 나쁘게 된다. 화학 수지를 양모표면에 코팅한 물세탁이 가능한 기계편직용 원사의 경우에도 양모의 본래의 부드럽고 상쾌한 단백질 섬유로서의 우수한 특성이 손상되는 것을 피할 수 없다.However, if the scale of the wool is removed almost completely without removing only part of the scale, the anti-shrink effect is good even without coating the chemical resin. At this time, however, if the scale is completely peeled off and the appropriate surface treatment is not done, the skin becomes like peeled skin and sticks to each other and the fiber bundle becomes firm after drying, making the work in the next process almost impossible. . In this case, when the surface of the wool is softly and flexibly treated with a silicone-based softener, the friction coefficient between the fibers is lowered, and ultimately, the bonding strength in the fiber is lowered, resulting in poor spinning properties. Even in the case of machine-washing yarns capable of laundering water coated with a chemical resin on the wool surface, it is inevitable that the excellent properties of the wool as its original soft and refreshing protein fibers are inevitable.
이에 대하여 양모원료의 표면스케일을 완전히 제거하되 화학수지를 코팅하지 않고 적절한 표면가공을 통하여 방적성이 양호한 본 발명의 제조방법을 개발한 것이다.On the other hand, the surface scale of the wool raw material is completely removed, but the coating method of the present invention has been developed through good surface processing without coating the chemical resin.
본 발명의 네오실키 양모사의 제조방법은 양모원료의 가공공정, 염색공정 및 방적공정을 개선한 것으로, 양모원료의 가공공정은 염소처리단계, 탈염소단계, 수세단계, 유연제처리단계, 및 건조단계로 이루어진다.The manufacturing method of the neo-silky wool yarn of the present invention is to improve the processing process, dyeing process and spinning process of the wool raw material, the processing process of the wool raw material chlorine treatment step, dechlorination step, washing step, softener treatment step, and drying step Is made of.
가공공정에서의 염소처리단계는 양모의 스케일을 완전히 제거하는 공정이다. 일반적인 염소의 공급량은 양모원료에 대하여 4∼6%이다. 이 공정에서는 염소를 이용하여 양모표면에 돌출된 스케일을 녹여내서 스케일을 제거한다.Chlorine treatment in the processing process is a process to completely remove the scale of the wool. General supply of chlorine is 4 to 6% of wool raw material. In this process, chlorine is used to remove scales by melting the protruding scales on the wool surface.
탈염소단계는 염소처리단계에서 양모에 결합된 염소 또는 톱내에 잔존하는 염소를 제거한다. 염소가 완전히 제거되지 않으면 유연제 처리공정에 영향을 미치고, 또 잔존하는 염소로 인하여 양모에 손상을 입히게 된다. 염소를 제거하기 위하여 Na2S2O2를 사용하는데, 이는 수용액 중에서 SO2로 해리되어 이 SO2가 염소를 제거한다.The dechlorination step removes chlorine bound to wool or chlorine remaining in the saw in the chlorine treatment step. If chlorine is not removed completely, it will affect the softener process and damage the wool due to the remaining chlorine. Uses a Na 2 S 2 O 2 in order to remove the chlorine, which dissociates in aqueous solution to remove SO 2 from the SO 2 is a chlorine.
이 수용액에서의 처리온도는 20∼30℃이고 pH는 4가 가장 바람직하다.The treatment temperature in this aqueous solution is 20-30 degreeC, and pH 4 is the most preferable.
수세단계는 냉수를 통가시켜서 행하며, 부족한 수분을 톱위에서 분무하여 양모원료를 세척한다. 수세처리가 잘못되면 양모표면에 붙어 있는 단백질 성분이 염색후의 마찰 견뢰도에 나쁜 영향을 미친다.The washing step is performed by passing cold water and washing the wool raw material by spraying insufficient moisture on the saw. Incorrect washing process affects the fastness of the rubbing fastness of protein components on the wool surface.
유연제 처리단계에서는 대전방지제로 처리한다. 처리방법은 방축가공기계의 최종용기(bowl)에서 30∼40℃의 수용액내에서 0.5∼1.5% OWP의 대전 방지제를 처리한다.In the softener treatment step, it is treated with an antistatic agent. The treatment method treats 0.5-1.5% OWP antistatic agent in an aqueous solution at 30-40 ° C. in a final bowl of a preshrunk machine.
건조단계는 가능한 한 저온에서 행하며 수분율이 15∼17%가 되도록 조절한다. 건조온도는 40℃내외로 유지한다. 건조온도가 높으면 수분율이 낮아지며 또한 양모가 딱딱하게 된다. 한편 수분율이 한번 낮아지면 회복하기가 극히 어렵고, 방적시에 정전기가 발생하여 래핑(Lapping) 및 플라이(Fly)발생이 증가하므로 건조후의 수분율을 철저히 관리해야 한다.The drying step is carried out at the lowest possible temperature and is adjusted so that the moisture content is 15 to 17%. Drying temperature is maintained at around 40 ℃. The higher the drying temperature, the lower the moisture content and the harder the wool. On the other hand, once the moisture content is low, it is extremely difficult to recover, and since the occurrence of static electricity during spinning increases lapping and fly, it is necessary to thoroughly manage the moisture content after drying.
양모원료의 염색공정이 완료되면 염색공정을 행한다. 염색공정은 톱(Top)의 경화를 방지하고 섬유손상을 최소화 하도록 조제, 염료, 후처리제, 견뢰도 증진제, 유연제, 및 방충제를 하나의 염색솥에서 행한다. 여기서 사용되는 조제로는 양모손상 방지제, 과산화수소, 균염제, pH 안정제 및 아세트산이 있다. 염료는 원하는 색상으 염료를 사용한다. 후처리제로는 중성세제와 수산화암모늄이 있다. 견뢰도 증진제로는 양모손상방지제와 수산화암모늄이 사용되지만, 때로는 이 견뢰도 증진제는 사용되지 않기도 한다. 유연제 및 방충제로는 양모 방충제와 초산이 있다. 염색공정에서의 염색솥의 온도는 90∼100℃를 유지하는 것이 바람직하다.When the dyeing process of wool raw material is completed, the dyeing process is performed. The dyeing process is a preparation, dye, after-treatment, color fasteners, softeners, and insect repellents in one dyeing pot to prevent the top hardening and to minimize fiber damage. Auxiliaries used herein include wool damage inhibitors, hydrogen peroxide, leveling agents, pH stabilizers and acetic acid. Dye uses dye of desired color. Post-treatment agents include neutral detergents and ammonium hydroxide. The fastness enhancers include wool damage inhibitors and ammonium hydroxide, but sometimes the fastness enhancers are not used. Softeners and repellents include wool repellents and acetic acid. It is preferable to maintain the temperature of the dyeing pot in a dyeing process at 90-100 degreeC.
염색공정이 완료되면 방적공정을 행한다. 방적공정은 방적 유제로서 대전 방지성이 있는 유제만을 사용하고 표합성 증진제는 사용하지 않는다.When the dyeing process is completed, the spinning process is performed. The spinning process uses only antistatic oils as spinning emulsions and no enzymatic enhancers.
본 발명의 네오실키 양모사의 제조방법은 하기의 실시예에 의하여 구체화되며, 하기의 실시예는 본 발명을 예시하기 위한 것으로 본 발명의 범위를 한정하기 위한 것은 아니다.The manufacturing method of the neosilki wool yarn of this invention is specified by the following Example, The following Example is for illustration of this invention, Comprising: It does not limit the scope of the present invention.
상기 염색공정을 완료한 양모는 방적유제로서 대전방지제를 사용하고 다음 표 1의 방적조건으로 방적하였다.The wool, which completed the dyeing process, was spun under the spinning conditions of Table 1 using an antistatic agent as a spinning emulsion.
[실시예 1]Example 1
양모원료를 15℃에서 염소처리하고, NaSO및 CHCOOH로써 pH4에서 탈염소시키고, 탈염소시킨 양모원료를 30℃의 물로 세수하고, 대전방지제 DISPERTAT-IP(영국, STEPHENSON THOMPSON TEXTILE CHEMICALS 회사 제품로 처리한 후 45℃의 온도에서 건조시켰다. 상기 원료가공이 완료된 양모원료를 BASOLAN TX(BASF 제품), 과산하수소 35℃, UNILOBEL WS, SANDACID VS(SANDOS 제품), 및 아세트산으로 이루어진 조제, 필요한 염료인 Lanasol Blue 3G, Lanasol Yellow 4G, Lanasol Red 및 Lanasol Scarlet, 후처리제로서의 UNIZOL AN-CONE과 수산화암모늄, 견뢰도증진제로서의 BASOLAN F(BASH제품)과 수산화암모늄, 및 양모방충제 및 유연제로서의 ANTITRAMA WTC와 초산을 사용하여 하나의 염색솔에서 순서대로 처리하였다.Chlorinated wool raw material at 15 ° C, dechlorinated at pH 4 with NaSO and CHCOOH, washed dechlorinated wool raw material with water at 30 ° C and treated with antistatic agent DISPERTAT-IP (STHENSON THOMPSON TEXTILE CHEMICALS, UK) The raw material was then dried at a temperature of 45 ° C. The raw wool finished wool material was prepared by BASOLAN TX (BASF), 35 ° C of hydrogen peroxide, UNILOBEL WS, SANDACID VS (manufactured by SANDOS), and acetic acid, and required dye Lanasol. Blue 3G, Lanasol Yellow 4G, Lanasol Red and Lanasol Scarlet, UNIZOL AN-CONE as a post-treatment agent and ammonium hydroxide, BASOLAN F (BASH) as a fastness enhancer and ammonium hydroxide, and ANTITRAMA WTC as a wool repellent and softener and acetic acid Treatment was done in one staining brush in order.
[실시예 2]Example 2
염색공정에서 견뢰도 증진제를 사용하지 않는 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1에서 동일한 방법으로 네오실키 양모사를 제조하였다.Neosilki wool was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fastness enhancer was not used in the dyeing process.
상기 실시예 1 및 2에서 생산한 단사 및 성사에 대한 시험결과는 하기표 2에서 나타내었다.Test results for the single yarn and the sasa produced in Examples 1 and 2 are shown in Table 2 below.
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