JPWO2018151304A1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided is a cosmetic which is excellent in an effect of imparting softness and smoothness to dry hair after washing, and particularly excellent in an effect of softening. The following components (A) to (D): (A) a liquid polyhydric alcohol, containing 10% by mass or more of (B) an oily component (C) an ionic surfactant (D) a higher alcohol, and the components (C) and (D) ) Forms an α-gel.

Description

Related applications

  This application claims the priority of Japanese Patent Application No. 2017-029524 filed on Feb. 20, 2017, and is incorporated herein.

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, and more particularly to a hair cosmetic composition.

  The effect of imparting softness and smoothness to skin and hair is an important effect expected for cosmetics. In particular, since the cuticle opens and becomes brittle each time the hair is washed, the use of hair cosmetics such as hair rinses and treatment agents is indispensable to maintain softness and smoothness.

  In general, hair cosmetics such as rinses and treatments (hereinafter sometimes referred to as conditioning agents) are often formulated with a surfactant and a higher alcohol to form a rinse gel (α-gel). Viscosity suitable for the hair is obtained, and the surfactant (particularly, cationic surfactant) adsorbs to the hair and can exert a conditioning effect. Furthermore, in order to enhance the conditioning effect, a combination of amino acids and amino acid derivatives (for example, Patent Document 1), a combination of water-soluble polymers (for example, Patent Document 2), liquid fatty acids and SELL oil A combination (for example, Patent Document 3), a combination of ester oil and a hydrocarbon (Patent Document 4), and the like are known.

  However, it is difficult to impart sufficient softness and smoothness, particularly softness, to the dried hair after washing, leaving room for improvement.

JP 2008-231019 A JP 2007-169192 A JP 2008-127337 A Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-98928

  The present invention has been made in view of the problems of the prior art, and an object thereof is to provide a cosmetic that has an effect of imparting softness and smoothness to dry hair after washing, in particular, an excellent softening effect. To do.

  As a result of intensive research conducted by the present inventor to solve the above-mentioned problems, a high concentration liquid polyhydric alcohol (specifically, 10% by mass or more) and a specific oily property are obtained together with an α gel comprising a surfactant and a higher alcohol. By co-mixing the ingredients, it has been found that a cosmetic that is very excellent in the effect of softening the hair after shampooing can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention includes the following.
[1] The following components (A)-(D):
(A) 10% by mass or more of liquid polyhydric alcohol, (B) oil component, (C) ionic surfactant, and (D) higher alcohol,
A cosmetic composition characterized in that the (C) and (D) form an α-gel.
[2] The (A) is a trihydric or higher liquid polyhydric alcohol, and the (B) is the following components (a) to (d):
(A) a saturated hydrocarbon having a straight chain and / or a branched chain having a molecular weight of 500 or less, (b) an ester oil having a double bond and / or a branched chain, (c) an aromatic alcohol, and (d) an HLB of 7 The following nonionic surfactants,
One or more oily components selected from the group consisting of:
The cosmetic composition according to [1] above, which is a hair cosmetic.
[3] The cosmetic composition according to [1] or [2], which contains 20% by mass or more of glycerin and / or diglycerin as the (A).
[4] The above [1]-[3, wherein (B) includes one or more oily components selected from the group consisting of (a), triglycerides, and esters of saturated linear fatty acids and branched lower alcohols. ] The cosmetic composition in any one of.
[5] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [4], which is a hair conditioning agent.

  According to the present invention, a cosmetic is provided that is very excellent in the effect of softening dry hair after washing.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described.
(A) Liquid polyhydric alcohol The liquid polyhydric alcohol (A) that can be used in the present invention may be any polyhydric alcohol that is liquid at room temperature and normal pressure (20 ° C., 1 atm), and is usually blended in cosmetics. Can be used. Examples include 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol 400, and the like. These liquid polyhydric alcohols can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  In the present invention, a polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxyl groups in one molecule (that is, a trihydric or higher polyhydric alcohol) is preferable, and glycerin and diglycerin can be particularly preferably used.

  The blending amount of the liquid polyhydric alcohol (A) in the present invention is 10 or more mass%, preferably 10 to 70 mass%, more preferably 10 to 60 mass%, further preferably 10 to 50 mass% with respect to the entire composition. %, Most preferably 15-30% by weight. If the amount is less than 10% by mass, the above effect may not be sufficiently obtained, and if it exceeds 70% by mass, the stability in the production process may be deteriorated.

(B) Oil component In the present invention, (B) oil component includes (a) a saturated hydrocarbon having a molecular weight of 500 or less and having a straight chain and / or branched chain, and (b) a double bond and / or a branched chain. One or more oily components selected from ester oils having (c) aromatic alcohols and (d) nonionic surfactants having an HLB of 7 or less can be suitably used.

  (A) Examples of saturated hydrocarbons having linear and / or branched chains with a molecular weight of 500 or less include, for example, liquid paraffin, isoparaffin, light liquid isoparaffin, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene, polybutene, and paraffin wax Ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, synthetic wax, etc., having a molecular weight of 500 or less.

(B) Examples of the hydrocarbon having a double bond and / or a branched chain and having an ester bond include esters of fatty acids and alcohols. Examples thereof include double bonds such as ethyl oleate and ethyl linoleate. An ester of a linear fatty acid having a bond with a linear lower alcohol, an ester of a saturated linear fatty acid such as isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate with a branched lower alcohol, and a linear fatty acid having a double bond such as isodecyl oleate Branched with saturated linear fatty acids such as esters with branched higher alcohols, isostearyl laurate, isotridecyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isostearyl myristate, isocetyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate Branch luxury alcohol Esters of branched fatty acids such as ethyl isostearate with linear lower alcohols, esters of branched fatty acids such as cetyl octoate, cetostearyl octoate, stearyl octoate and hexyl isostearate with linear higher alcohols Esters of fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol dioctanoate, ethylene glycol dioleate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diglycerate oleate, triglyceride oleate, Octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isocetyl octoate, isostearyl octoate, octyl isopelargonate, octyldodecyl neodecanoate, isostearic acid Esters of branched fatty acids with branched higher alcohols such as Sosuteariru like. The ester of fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol may be a monoester (monoglyceride), a diester (diglyceride), or a triester (triglyceride).
Of these, esters of triglycerides or saturated linear fatty acids and branched lower alcohols are preferred.

(C) As aromatic alcohol, what is normally used for cosmetics can be used. Examples include benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, phenoxyethanol and the like.

(D) The nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 or less can be used without particular limitation as long as it is usually used in cosmetics. Examples include polyoxypropylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbit fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid ester , Polyoxyethylene sorbitol tetra fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, alkyl polyglucoside, N-alkyldimethylamine oxide, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether , Polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene Emissions polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, HLB is include the 7 or less. The HLB value in the present invention is a value measured by the Davis method.
Of these, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether is preferred, and examples include POE (2) oleyl ether (HLB5).

  In the present invention, the (B) oil component can be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof, and its blending amount is 0.001 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass in the total composition, More preferably, it is 0.2-2 mass%. If it is this range, softness | flexibility, smoothness, and the goodness of a finger can be provided to the hair after drying. If the amount is less than 0.001% by mass, the above effect may not be sufficiently obtained. When the amount exceeds 5% by mass, the usability decreases due to a blotch feeling, or the composition softens and becomes stable. Deterioration may occur.

(C) Ionic surfactant In the present invention, the ionic surfactant used as the component (C) is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics. For example, cationic surfactant An agent and / or an anionic surfactant can be preferably used.
Examples of the cationic surfactant include a tertiary amine type cationic surfactant and / or a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant, and behentrimonium chloride and / or cetrimonium chloride are preferably used. Can be used.
As the anionic surfactant, for example, stearoylmethyl taurine sodium can be preferably used.

  In this invention, (C) ionic surfactant can be used individually or in combination of 2 or more types, The compounding quantity is 0.2-5 mass% in a composition, More preferably, 1.5- 4.5% by mass.

(D) Higher alcohol In the present invention, the higher alcohol used as the component (D) is capable of forming an α gel in water together with (C) an ionic surfactant, and is usually used in cosmetics. Although it will not specifically limit, What has a C12-C24, More preferably, C16-C22 linear saturated hydrocarbon group is preferable. Examples of such higher alcohols include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (cetanol), cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, chimyl alcohol, and batyl alcohol. It is done. Hydrogenated rapeseed oil alcohol (main components are stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol) may be used.
Of these, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and hydrogenated rapeseed oil alcohol can be suitably used.

  In the present invention, (D) higher alcohols can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the blending amount is 0.1 to 20%, preferably 3 to 10% in the composition.

In the cosmetic according to the present invention, (C) the ionic surfactant and (D) the higher alcohol form an α gel.
The α-gel is an aggregate composed of a lamellar bimolecular film formed by coexistence of higher alcohol or unneutralized fatty acid and a surfactant in the presence of water (see: Shoji Fukushima, “Cetyl”). "Physical chemistry of alcohol", published by Fragrance Journal, pages 79-83, 1992). Since the higher alcohol and the surfactant efficiently form an α-gel within a molar ratio of 3: 2 to 5: 1, in the present invention, (D) higher alcohol and (C) cationic surfactant are used. The compounding amount ratio (molar ratio) of the agent is preferably in the range of 3: 2 to 5: 1. Especially preferably, it exists in the range of 5: 2-9: 2. Moreover, it is preferable that the compounding quantity ratio (molar ratio) of (D) higher alcohol and (C) anionic surfactant exists in the range of 5: 2 to 11: 1.

  The α-gel formed in the cosmetic of the present invention comprises (B) an oily component in a bimolecular film composed of components (C) and (D), and (A) in water existing between the bimolecular films. ) Liquid polyhydric alcohol may be held.

  The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention contains water as a medium. Moreover, in water, the water-soluble component can be suitably mix | blended among the arbitrary components illustrated below in the range which does not impair the effect of this invention.

  In addition to the above essential components, the cosmetics according to the present invention can be blended with components usually used in cosmetics within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. Examples of such optional components include powder components, thickeners, film agents, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, vitamins, antioxidants, preservatives, and fragrances.

  The cosmetic according to the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method.

  The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be suitably used as a conditioning agent typified by rinse (conditioner), treatment and the like. In particular, it can be used as a rinsing conditioning effect enhancer by using after shampooing and before rinsing. That is, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to hair that has been washed and rinsed with a shampoo, and then applied to the hair. Then, the hair cosmetic is rinsed with warm water, and then subjected to a normal rinsing treatment to make the hair very soft. be able to.

  The composition according to the present invention can be suitably used as a conditioning agent that is used after being applied to hair and then washed off (ie, for in-bath use).

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Moreover, the compounding quantity in a present Example is the mass% unless there is particular notice.

[Example 1]
Test compositions (conditioners) having the formulations shown in Tables 1 and 2 below were produced according to the following production methods, and the following sensory evaluation tests and physical property tests were conducted to evaluate the effect on hair.

<Production method>
In the formulations shown in the table below, each compounding component was stirred and melted at 80 ° C. and cooled to obtain a conditioner.

<Sensory evaluation test>
20 g of hair strand (Burelux Co., Ltd., 25 cm) was wet with hot water (about 40 ° C.) for 30 seconds, 1 g of a commercially available shampoo was applied, and the hair was washed for 30 seconds. After rinsing the hair strand with hot water (about 40 ° C.) for 30 seconds, 1 g of the test composition was applied and allowed to blend for 30 seconds. Thereafter, the hair strand was rinsed with hot water (about 40 ° C.) for 60 seconds, water was removed with a towel, and the hair strand was sufficiently dried using a dryer.
The hair strands after drying were evaluated by 10 professional panelists according to the following evaluation criteria for the following items (1) to (3).

(Evaluation items and criteria)
(1) Softness 5: Soft, 4: Soft, 3: Normal, 2: Hard, 5: Hard (2) Smoothness, 5: Smooth, 4: Smooth, 3: Normal, 2: Not smooth, 5: Not smooth (3) Good for fingering 5: Good for fingering, 4: Good for fingering, 3: Normal, 2: Bad for fingering, 5: Bad for fingering

The average value of the obtained evaluations was calculated and indicated by symbols in the table according to the following.
(1) For softness, AB is passed (very smooth), CD is rejected, (2) For smoothness and (3) good fingering, pass AC, D It was rejected.
A: Average value of evaluation is 4 or more and 5 or less B: Average value of evaluation is 3 or more and less than 4 C: Average value of evaluation is 2 or more and less than 3 D: Average value of evaluation is 1 or more and less than 2

<Physical property test>
In order to physically evaluate the softness of the hair, the bending stress of the hair was measured. The bending stress of hair is a parameter generally used as an indicator of hair hardness, firmness, and feeling of firmness.
A commercially available hair strand was subjected to the same treatment as the above sensory evaluation test (washing with a commercial shampoo, treatment with a test composition, and drying treatment), and then a hair bending tester (KES-TECH, KES- The bending stress of the hair was measured using FB2-S). In addition, it shows that hair is flexible, so that bending stress is small.
The bending stress of the hair before and after the treatment was measured, and the P value represented by the following mathematical formula (1) was calculated. The evaluation criteria for P value are also shown.

(Evaluation criteria)
P value of less than 1: Effective to soften hair
P value of 1 or more: No effect to soften hair

Table 1 shows the results of the examples and Table 2 shows the results of the comparative examples. In the table, “-” in the physical property test result column indicates that the measurement is not performed.
The following compounds were used as compounds represented by asterisks.
* 1: Refined macadamia oil (Nisshin Co., Ltd.)
* 2: Emalex 502P (Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.)
* 3: Emalex 550P (Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.)

As shown in Table 1, it contains an α-gel composed of an ionic surfactant and a higher alcohol, contains 20-50% by mass of a liquid polyhydric alcohol, and (a) a linear chain having a molecular weight of 500 or less as an oil component. And / or a saturated hydrocarbon having a branched chain (Examples 1, 2, 8-10), (b) an ester oil having a double bond and / or a branched chain (Example 3-5), (c) an aromatic Hair treated with a conditioner containing alcohol (Example 6) or (d) a nonionic surfactant (Example 7) with an HLB of 7 or less was very soft and smooth in sensory evaluation. Moreover, P value of these hair was less than 1 (Examples 1-4 and 7), and it was also physically shown that it became soft.
Furthermore, (a) a saturated hydrocarbon having a linear and / or branched chain having a molecular weight of 500 or less (Examples 1, 2, 8-10), (b) macadamia nut oil or isopropyl myristate (Example 3) 4) or (d) Hair treated with a conditioner formulated with POE (2) oleyl ether (Example 7) was also excellent in fingering.

  In contrast, when treated with a conditioner in which liquid polyhydric alcohol (glycerin or diglycerin) was replaced with solid sorbitol at room temperature and normal pressure, smoothness and good fingering were obtained, but it was very soft. The results were inferior (Comparison between Example 2 and Comparative Example 1, Example 3 and Comparative Example 2, and Example 6 and Comparative Example 3). Further, the hair treated with a conditioner containing a hydrocarbon having a molecular weight exceeding 500 (Comparative Example 4) or a nonionic surfactant having a HLB of 16 (Comparative Example 5) as an oil component is soft and smooth. , It was inferior in every way of the finger. Moreover, in the conditioner which did not mix | blend an oil-based component (Comparative Examples 6 and 8) or a polyhydric alcohol (Comparative Example 7), the effect which provides softness | flexibility, smoothness, and the goodness of a finger to hair is seen. There was no (Comparative Example 6).

In general, it is known that an α-gel can retain an oily component in the bimolecular film and an aqueous component in water existing between the bimolecular films. In order to understand the localization of (A) liquid polyhydric alcohol and (B) oily component in the composition of the present application, the present inventor forms an α gel with component (C) and component (D). Produced a conditioner that did not contain components (A) and (B) (Comparative Example 9). Then, the conditioner, (A) glycerin, and (B) hydrogenated polydecene were directly applied to the hair strand, and the sensory evaluation was performed.
In the hair subjected to this treatment, none of softness, smoothness, and good fingering was recognized (Table 2, Comparative Example 9).

  From this result, in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, (A) the liquid polyhydric alcohol and (B) the oil component are respectively held between and in the bilayer membrane of the α gel, It was suggested that the formation of the structure may give the hair softness, smoothness, and good fingering.

[Example 2]
Next, the amount of liquid polyhydric alcohol was examined.
A test composition (conditioner) having the formulation shown in Table 3 below was produced according to the production method of Example 1, and the same test as in Example 1 was performed to evaluate the effect on hair.

As shown in Table 3, in the hair treated with a conditioner containing 5-7% by mass of liquid polyhydric alcohol, smoothness and good fingering were recognized in sensory evaluation, but it was inferior in softness. (Comparative Examples 10 and 11). Moreover, the P value of these hairs was 1 or more, and it was physically shown that they were not soft.
On the other hand, hair treated with a conditioner containing 12.5-65% by mass of liquid polyhydric alcohol was very soft in sensory evaluation, and also excellent in smoothness and good fingering ( Examples 11-16). In addition, the P value of these hairs was less than 1, indicating that it was soft.

  Therefore, a large amount of liquid polyhydric alcohol can be blended in the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention, and when blended in the range of 10-65% by mass, it was shown that the effect of making the hair very soft is excellent. .

[Example 3]
Then, the compounding quantity of the oil-based component was examined.
A test composition (conditioner) having the formulation shown in Table 4 below was produced according to the production method of Example 1, and the same test as in Example 1 was performed to evaluate the effect on hair. The camellia seed oil used in Example 3 is (b) an ester oil having a double bond and / or a branched chain, and liquid paraffin is (a) a saturated carbonization having a straight chain and / or a branched chain having a molecular weight of 500 or less. It is an oily component belonging to hydrogen.

As shown in Table 4, the hair treated with the conditioner containing no oil component was very inferior in softness and inferior in smoothness and fingering (Comparative Example 12). The P value of the hair was 1 or more, and it was also shown in the physical property test that it was not soft.
In contrast, hair treated with a conditioner containing 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of camellia seed oil or 0.5% by weight of liquid paraffin as an oily component is shown to be very soft in sensory evaluation. In the physical property test, it was shown to be soft (Examples 17-21). Furthermore, in the test example in which the blending amount of the oil component was 0.1% by mass or more, the smoothness and the goodness of fingering were excellent (Examples 19 to 21).

  Therefore, when the oil component is blended in the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention so as to be 0.001 to 5% by mass, it is excellent in the effect of making the hair very soft, and further, in the blending amount of 0.1% by mass or more, It was also demonstrated that the effect of imparting smoothness and good fingering to the hair was excellent.

  From the above results, in the hair cosmetic in which the ionic surfactant and the higher alcohol form an α gel, the liquid polyhydric alcohol is highly blended (specifically, 10% by mass or more), and (a) A saturated hydrocarbon having a linear and / or branched chain having a molecular weight of 500 or less, (b) an ester oil having a double bond and / or a branched chain, (c) an aromatic alcohol, and (d) an HLB of 7 or less. It has been clarified that a hair cosmetic having an excellent effect of softening hair can be obtained by co-blending one or more oily components selected from the group consisting of a certain nonionic surfactant.

Claims (5)

The following components (A)-(D):
(A) Liquid polyhydric alcohol, 10% by mass or more (B) Oil component (C) Ionic surfactant (D) Higher alcohol is included, and (C) and (D) form an α gel. ,
A cosmetic composition characterized by the above. (A) is a trihydric or higher liquid polyhydric alcohol,
Said (B) is the following component (a)-(d):
(A) a saturated hydrocarbon having a straight chain and / or a branched chain having a molecular weight of 500 or less (b) an ester oil having a double bond and / or a branched chain (c) an aromatic alcohol (d) an HLB of 7 or less One or more oily components selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants,
Being hair cosmetics,
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1. As said (A), 20 mass% or more of glycerol and / or diglycerol is included,
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2. (B) includes (a), one or more oily components selected from the group consisting of (a), triglycerides, and esters of saturated linear fatty acids and branched lower alcohols,
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cosmetic composition is a hair conditioning agent.