JPS6367593B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPS6367593B2
JPS6367593B2 JP56168234A JP16823481A JPS6367593B2 JP S6367593 B2 JPS6367593 B2 JP S6367593B2 JP 56168234 A JP56168234 A JP 56168234A JP 16823481 A JP16823481 A JP 16823481A JP S6367593 B2 JPS6367593 B2 JP S6367593B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
fibers
fiber
pattern
cellulose fibers
cellulose
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP56168234A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS5870786A (en
Inventor
Shigeru Okano
Takahiro Fujio
Masao Nakajima
Hideki Yamamoto
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toppan Inc
Original Assignee
Toppan Printing Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toppan Printing Co Ltd filed Critical Toppan Printing Co Ltd
Priority to JP16823481A priority Critical patent/JPS5870786A/en
Publication of JPS5870786A publication Critical patent/JPS5870786A/en
Publication of JPS6367593B2 publication Critical patent/JPS6367593B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

本発明はセルロース繊維とポリエステル繊維と
から成る繊維構造物の繊維加工方法に関する。 従来より、2種の異種繊維より成る繊維構造物
の一方を、酸又はアルカリを部分的に付与した後
に加熱処理し、その結果生じる炭化、溶解、脆化
により除去し、透し模様を得る、いわゆる抜食加
工が知られている。例えば、特開昭56−91088号
公報に示されるように、絹と人絹、アセテートと
人絹、ナイロンと人絹等の交織織物を酸によつて
植物性繊維を炭化し、透し模様を有する織物を作
成する方法、即ち具体的には、これらの織物に硫
酸または硫酸アルミナ等を含有させたトラガント
ゴムのりを印捺し、常温で乾燥させた後、高温で
熱処理することにより容易に炭化反応を促進さ
せ、続いてその織物をもみ洗いすることにより印
捺部の植物性繊維を除去し、透し模様を得る方法
や、ポリエステル繊維を含む編織物にフエノール
類のアルカリ塩を含むのり剤を印捺し、高熱処理
して印捺部のポリエステル繊維のみを脆化し、機
械的にもむか、又は相手繊維が耐アルカリ性の大
きい場合は熱アルカリ溶液で溶解除去する方法が
知られており、この場合熱アルカリ溶解法が適用
できる混合相手の繊維としては、レーヨン、綿、
ナイロン、ポリ塩化ビニル、アクリル、ポリプロ
ピレン、ポリビニルアルコール系繊維である。 以上述べてきた従来の透し模様形成方法はいず
れもその形成方法のみにとどまり、その繊維構造
物の染色性までは考慮されていない。即ち、2種
類の性質の異なる繊維より成る繊維構造物の染色
には通常2種類のそれぞれの繊維に適した染料を
用いる必要があるので、その発色性等に相当の困
難を要し、まして捺染に於ては一層である。 本発明はこれら2種類の性質の異なる繊維より
成る繊維構造物の透し模様形成と共に染色性付与
に関する繊維加工方法であり、特にセルロース繊
維とポリエステル繊維とから成る繊維構造物の透
し模様形成と同じに染色性を付与する繊維加工方
法である。即ちセルロース繊維とポリエステル繊
維とから成る繊維構造物を部分的に酸塩化物によ
り分散染料可染性に化学改質した後に、硫酸水溶
液、硫酸アルミナ、硫酸水素ナトリウム又はアル
キル化ナフタレンスルホン酸等のセルロース繊維
抜食剤を全面に付与し、未改質のセルロース繊維
を抜食して透し模様を形成し、その後分散染料に
て染色することを特徴とする繊維加工方法であ
る。すなわち、本発明の如く部分的にセルロース
繊維を分散染料可染性に化学改質すると、化学改
質された部分は耐酸性にすぐれ、その後の40〜75
%硫酸での加熱処理に対して極めて安定であり、
その為に未改質部のセルロース繊維の抜食がより
一層鮮明になり、極めてコントラストのある透し
模様が形成される。 具体的にはセルロース繊維とポリエステル繊維
より成る繊維構造物に予めアルカリ剤を付与し、
続いて部分的に酸塩化物を付与した後、乾熱又は
蒸熱処理して、かかる繊維構造物中のセルロース
繊維を部分的に分散染料可染性に化学改質し、そ
の後均一にセルロース繊維抜食剤を付与して加熱
処理により未反応のセルロース繊維を抜食して透
し模様を形成し、その後、分散染料にて染色する
ことにより、透し模様を形成した均一な染色物を
得る繊維加工方法である。即ち、本発明はセルロ
ース繊維とポリエステル繊維より成る繊維構造物
に透し模様を形成すると同時に分散染料単一で均
一に染色することを特徴とする繊維加工方法であ
る。 本発明に使用されるアルカリ剤とは、例えば、
リチウム、ナトリウムカリウム、ベリリウム、マ
グネシウム、カルシウム、バリウム、ストロンチ
ウム等のアルカリ金属あるいはアルカリ土類金属
の水酸化物である。 また本発明に使用される酸塩化物は例えば塩化
アセチル等の脂肪族酸塩化物も意味するが、好ま
しくは、下記構造()を有する塩化ベンゾイル
等の芳香族カルボン酸塩化物又は下記構造()
を有するP−トルエンスルホニルクロリド等の芳
香族スルホン酸塩化物である。
The present invention relates to a method for processing fiber structures of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers. Conventionally, one of the fiber structures made of two different types of fibers is partially applied with acid or alkali and then heat treated, and removed by the resulting carbonization, melting, and embrittlement to obtain an openwork pattern. So-called skipping processing is known. For example, as shown in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 56-91088, mixed woven fabrics such as silk and human silk, acetate and human silk, nylon and human silk, etc. are carbonized with acid to create a transparent pattern. Specifically, the method of making woven fabrics is to print tragacanth rubber paste containing sulfuric acid or alumina sulfate, etc. on these woven fabrics, dry it at room temperature, and then heat-treat it at high temperature to easily cause the carbonization reaction. There is also a method to obtain a transparent pattern by removing the vegetable fibers in the printed area by massaging and washing the fabric, and a method for printing a glue agent containing an alkali salt of phenols on a knitted fabric containing polyester fibers. It is known that the polyester fibers are printed and subjected to high heat treatment to make only the printed portion of the polyester fibers brittle, and then mechanically kneaded or, if the other fibers have high alkali resistance, dissolved and removed using a hot alkaline solution. The fibers to which the alkaline dissolution method can be applied include rayon, cotton,
These are nylon, polyvinyl chloride, acrylic, polypropylene, and polyvinyl alcohol fibers. All of the conventional openwork pattern formation methods described above are limited to only the formation method, and do not take into account the dyeability of the fiber structure. In other words, when dyeing a fiber structure made of two types of fibers with different properties, it is usually necessary to use dyes suitable for each of the two types of fibers, which requires considerable difficulty in developing the color, and even more difficult for printing. It is even more so. The present invention is a fiber processing method for forming an openwork pattern and imparting dyeability to a fiber structure made of these two types of fibers with different properties, and in particular, for forming an openwork pattern and imparting dyeability to a fiber structure made of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers. It is also a fiber processing method that imparts dyeability. That is, after a fiber structure consisting of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers is partially chemically modified with an acid chloride to make it dyeable with disperse dyes, cellulose is treated with an aqueous sulfuric acid solution, alumina sulfate, sodium hydrogen sulfate, or alkylated naphthalene sulfonic acid. This is a fiber processing method characterized by applying a fiber removing agent to the entire surface, removing unmodified cellulose fibers to form a transparent pattern, and then dyeing with a disperse dye. That is, when cellulose fibers are partially chemically modified to make them dyeable with disperse dyes as in the present invention, the chemically modified portions have excellent acid resistance, and the subsequent 40 to 75
% extremely stable against heat treatment with sulfuric acid,
As a result, the removal of cellulose fibers in the unmodified portion becomes even clearer, and an extremely contrasting watermark pattern is formed. Specifically, an alkaline agent is applied in advance to a fiber structure consisting of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers,
Subsequently, after partially applying acid chloride, the cellulose fibers in the fiber structure are partially chemically modified to be dyeable with disperse dyes by dry heat or steam treatment, and then the cellulose fibers are uniformly extracted. A fiber processing method in which a transparent pattern is formed by adding a food agent and removing unreacted cellulose fibers through heat treatment, and then dyeing with a disperse dye to obtain a uniformly dyed product with a transparent pattern. It's a method. That is, the present invention is a fiber processing method characterized by forming a transparent pattern on a fiber structure made of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers and at the same time uniformly dyeing the fiber structure with a single disperse dye. The alkaline agent used in the present invention is, for example,
Hydroxides of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as lithium, sodium potassium, beryllium, magnesium, calcium, barium, and strontium. The acid chloride used in the present invention also means aliphatic acid chloride such as acetyl chloride, but preferably aromatic carboxylic acid chloride such as benzoyl chloride having the following structure () or the following structure ()
is an aromatic sulfonic acid chloride such as P-toluenesulfonyl chloride.

【式】【formula】

【式】 (R1、R2は水素、塩素、ニトロ基、又は炭素数
1〜2のアルキル基、R3、R4は水素又は炭素数
1〜2のアルキル基を意味する。) また、本発明に於てセルロース繊維とポリエス
テル繊維より成る繊維構造物に、該酸塩化物を部
分的に付与する方法としては、該酸塩化物を適性
溶媒に溶解して、グラビアコート、スプレーコー
トするか、又は水、界面活性剤により水中乳化液
として、増粘剤で粘度調製することによりロータ
リースクリーンコート、フラツトスクリーンコー
ト等ができる。この際使用可能な増粘剤とは一般
に捺染のりとして使われているアルギン酸ソーダ
やCMC、またベントナイト等のチキソトロピー
性のすぐれた無機物である。 上記方法により得られたセルロース繊維とポリ
エステル繊維の部分的に分散染料可染性に化学改
質された繊維構造物を40%〜75%硫酸水溶液に浸
漬するか、あるいは硫酸、硫酸アルミナ、又は硫
酸水素ナトリウムを含む印捺のりを印捺し、その
後加熱処理することにより、未改質のセルロース
繊維だけが抜食され、その結果鮮明な透し模様が
形成でき、かつその他の繊維部はいずれも分散染
料に対して極めて優れた染色性を有している為
に、その後の染色に於て、極めて均一かつ濃度の
ある染色物がえられる。 以下、実施例によりさらに詳細な説明とする。 実施例 1 (1) シルケツト加工済みのポリエステル/木綿=
65/35なる混紡ブロード布を10%水酸化ナトリ
ウム水溶液中に浸漬した後に、絞り率90%にな
る様絞りロールにて絞つた。 次にこのアルカリ付与布に下記(イ)処方の水中
乳化液を用いて、線数40線/インチ、ニツケル
版厚150μ、開孔率50%の第1図に記載の図柄
から成るロータリースクリーン版で、非画線部
であるaの部分に印捺し、続いてピンテンター
オーブンにて100℃、90秒加熱し、その後ソー
ピング、水洗工程を経てパターン改質布を得
た。 (イ) 処方 P−トルエンスルホニルクロリド 60重量部 トルエン 140 〃 水 145 〃 ニツサンノニオンNS−206 ニツサンノニオンNS−210 ニツサンノニオンNS−230 各5 〃 (上記三種は日本石油脂社製非イオン界面
活性剤) アルギン酸ソーダ 2 〃 ベントナイト 5 〃 (2) 次に(1)で得られたパターン改質布を60%硫酸
水溶液に30秒間浸漬し、常温で乾燥させた後
に、100℃、60秒間加熱処理し、その後、機械
的にもみながら水洗し、乾燥させたところ、未
改質部、即ち第1図記載の画線部bに鮮明な透
し模様が形成された。 (3) (2)で得られた布を下記処方なる染浴を用い
て、オートクレーブ中、浴比1/30で130℃、
20分間染色したところ均一でかつ濃度のある染
色布が得られた。 スミカロンブルーE−FBL(住友化学社製)
30g 水 1 実施例 2 (1) ポリエステル/レーヨン=50/50(混繊糸)
からなる交織織布を10%水酸化ナトリウム水溶
液中に浸漬した後に交り率90%になる様絞りロ
ールにて絞つた。 次にこのアルカリ付与布に以下(ロ)処方の水中
乳化液を用いて線数40線/インチ、ニツケル版
厚150μ、開孔率50%の第1図記載の図柄より
成るロータリースクリーン版で非画線部である
aの部分に印捺し、風乾した後スチーマー中で
100℃、60秒間スチーミングし、その後ソーピ
ング水洗工程を経てパターン改質布を得た。 (ロ) 処方 P−キシレン−2−スルホニルクロリド
60重量部 トリクロロエタン 140 〃 水 145 〃 ニツサンノニオンNS−206 ニツサンノニオンNS−210 各5 〃 (上記2種は日本油脂社製非イオン界面活
性剤) アルギン酸ソーダ 2 〃 ベントナイト 5 〃 (2) 次に(1)で得られたパターン改質布に下記処方
から成る印捺のりをシルクスクリーンにより全
面塗布し、乾燥後、130℃、4分間加熱処理し
た。 <印捺のり> 無水硫酸アルミニウム 180重量部 ブリテツシユガム 500 〃 グリセリン 80 〃 元のり(ブリテイシユガム/水=100g/1)
240 〃 その後機械的にもみながら水洗し、乾燥させ
たところ、未改質部すなわち第1図記載の画線
部bに鮮明な透し模様が形成された。 (3) (2)で得られた布を下記組成のインキによりグ
ラビア印刷して得られた転写紙と重ね合わせ
て、温度195℃、圧力300g/cm2時間40秒の条件
にて加熱、加圧して転写捺染を行つたところ極
めて均一に濃度のある染色布が得られた。 <インキ> スミカロンレツドE−FBL原末(住友化学社
製) 10重量部 エチルセルロース(ハーキユリーズ社製)
9 〃 界面活性剤 1 〃 イソプロピルアルコール 40 〃 エチルアルコール 40 〃 実施例 3 (1) シルケツト加工済みのポリエステル/木綿=
65/35なる混紡ブロード布を10%水酸化ナトリ
ウム水溶液中に浸漬した後に、絞り率90%にな
る様絞りロールにて絞つた。 次にこのアルカリ付与布に塩化ベンゾイル50
%トルエン溶液をスプレーガンにて部分的に吹
きつけ、室温で風乾し、その後ソーピング、水
洗、乾燥して改質布を得た。 (2) (1)で得られた部分的改質布を60%硫酸水溶液
に30秒間浸漬し、常温で乾燥させた後に、100
℃、60秒間加熱処理し、その後、機械的にもみ
ながら水洗し、乾燥させたところ、部分的改質
部以外、即ち、未改質部に鮮明な透し模様が形
成された。 (3) (2)で得られた布を下記処方なる染浴を用いて
オートクレーブ中、浴比1/30で130℃、20分
間染色したところ均一でかつ濃度のある染色布
が得られた。 スミカロンブルーE−FBL(住友化学社製)
30g 水 1
[Formula] (R 1 and R 2 mean hydrogen, chlorine, a nitro group, or an alkyl group having 1 to 2 carbon atoms; R 3 and R 4 mean hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 2 carbon atoms.) In the present invention, the acid chloride can be partially applied to the fiber structure composed of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers by dissolving the acid chloride in an appropriate solvent and gravure coating or spray coating. Alternatively, rotary screen coating, flat screen coating, etc. can be made by making an emulsion in water using water and a surfactant, and adjusting the viscosity with a thickener. Thickeners that can be used in this case include sodium alginate and CMC, which are generally used as printing pastes, and inorganic substances with excellent thixotropy such as bentonite. The cellulose fibers and polyester fibers obtained by the above method are immersed in a 40% to 75% sulfuric acid aqueous solution, or sulfuric acid, alumina sulfate, or sulfuric acid. By printing with a printing paste containing sodium hydrogen and then heat-treating, only the unmodified cellulose fibers are extracted, resulting in the formation of a clear transparent pattern, while all other fibers are dispersed. Since it has extremely excellent dyeing properties with respect to dyes, it is possible to obtain dyed products with extremely uniform density during subsequent dyeing. A more detailed explanation will be given below with reference to Examples. Example 1 (1) Mercerized polyester/cotton =
A 65/35 blended broadcloth was immersed in a 10% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution, and then squeezed using a squeezing roll to achieve a squeezing rate of 90%. Next, a rotary screen plate consisting of the pattern shown in Fig. 1 with a number of lines of 40 lines/inch, a nickel plate thickness of 150μ, and a porosity of 50% is applied to this alkali-imparted cloth using an emulsion in water with the following formula (a). Then, printing was performed on the non-image area a, followed by heating at 100° C. for 90 seconds in a pin tenter oven, followed by soaping and water washing steps to obtain a pattern-modified cloth. (a) Prescription P-Toluenesulfonyl chloride 60 parts by weight Toluene 140 〃 Water 145 〃 Nitsusan Nonion NS-206 Nitsusan Nonion NS-210 Nitsusan Nonion NS-230 5 each (The above three types are non-ionic products made by Nippon Oil Co., Ltd. Surfactant) Sodium alginate 2 Bentonite 5 (2) Next, the pattern-modified fabric obtained in (1) was immersed in a 60% sulfuric acid aqueous solution for 30 seconds, dried at room temperature, and then heated at 100°C for 60 seconds. When heat treated, then washed with water while mechanically kneading, and dried, a clear transparent pattern was formed in the unmodified area, that is, the image area b shown in FIG. (3) The cloth obtained in (2) was heated at 130°C at a bath ratio of 1/30 in an autoclave using the dye bath with the following recipe.
After dyeing for 20 minutes, a uniform and dense dyed fabric was obtained. Sumikalon Blue E-FBL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
30g Water 1 Example 2 (1) Polyester/rayon = 50/50 (mixed yarn)
A mixed woven fabric consisting of the following was immersed in a 10% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution and then squeezed with a squeezing roll so that the interlacing rate was 90%. Next, a rotary screen plate consisting of the pattern shown in Figure 1 with a number of lines of 40 lines/inch, a nickel plate thickness of 150μ, and a porosity of 50% was applied to this alkali-imparted cloth using an emulsion in water with the following (b) formulation. Print on part a, which is the drawing area, and after air drying, put it in a steamer.
Steaming was performed at 100°C for 60 seconds, followed by a soaping and washing process to obtain a pattern-modified fabric. (b) Prescription P-xylene-2-sulfonyl chloride
60 parts by weight Trichloroethane 140 Water 145 Nitsusan Nonion NS-206 Nitsusan Nonion NS-210 5 each (The above two types are nonionic surfactants made by NOF Corporation) Sodium alginate 2 Bentonite 5 (2) Next A printing paste consisting of the following formulation was applied to the entire surface of the pattern-modified fabric obtained in (1) using a silk screen, and after drying, it was heat-treated at 130°C for 4 minutes. <Printing glue> Anhydrous aluminum sulfate 180 parts by weight British gum 500 Glycerin 80 Original glue (British gum/water = 100g/1)
240 〃 After that, it was washed with water while being mechanically rubbed and dried, and a clear transparent pattern was formed in the unmodified area, that is, the image area b shown in FIG. (3) The cloth obtained in (2) was layered with a transfer paper obtained by gravure printing with ink having the composition below, and heated and heated at a temperature of 195℃ and a pressure of 300g/cm for 2 hours and 40 seconds. When transfer printing was performed by pressing, a dyed cloth with extremely uniform density was obtained. <Ink> Sumikalon Red E-FBL bulk powder (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 10 parts by weight of ethyl cellulose (manufactured by Hercules Co., Ltd.)
9 〃 Surfactant 1 〃 Isopropyl alcohol 40 〃 Ethyl alcohol 40 〃 Example 3 (1) Mercerized polyester/cotton =
A 65/35 blended broadcloth was immersed in a 10% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution, and then squeezed using a squeezing roll to achieve a squeezing rate of 90%. Next, add 50% benzoyl chloride to this alkali imparting cloth.
% toluene solution using a spray gun, air-dried at room temperature, and then soaped, washed with water, and dried to obtain a modified fabric. (2) The partially modified fabric obtained in (1) was immersed in a 60% sulfuric acid aqueous solution for 30 seconds, dried at room temperature, and then
C. for 60 seconds, then washed with water while mechanically kneading, and dried, a clear watermark pattern was formed in the unmodified areas other than the partially modified areas. (3) The cloth obtained in (2) was dyed in an autoclave at a bath ratio of 1/30 at 130° C. for 20 minutes using a dye bath with the following recipe, and a uniform and dense dyed cloth was obtained. Sumikalon Blue E-FBL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
30g water 1

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

図面は本発明の実施例を示し、第1図は繊維の
透し模様を示す平面図である。 a……非画線部、b……画線部。
The drawings show an embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 1 is a plan view showing a transparent pattern of fibers. a... Non-printing area, b... Printing area.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 1 セルロース繊維とポリエステル繊維とから成
る繊維構成物中のセルロース繊維部を酸塩化物に
より部分的に分散染料可染性に化学改質後、全面
にセルロース繊維抜食剤を付与し、その後加熱処
理し、前記酸塩化物により改質していない未改質
セルロース繊維部を抜食することを特徴とするセ
ルロース繊維を含む繊維構造物の加工方法。
1 After chemically modifying the cellulose fiber part in a fiber composition consisting of cellulose fiber and polyester fiber to be partially dyeable with disperse dye using acid chloride, a cellulose fiber eliminating agent is applied to the entire surface, and then heat treatment is performed. A method for processing a fibrous structure containing cellulose fibers, characterized in that unmodified cellulose fibers that have not been modified with the acid chloride are removed.
JP16823481A 1981-10-21 1981-10-21 Processing of cellulose fiber Granted JPS5870786A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP16823481A JPS5870786A (en) 1981-10-21 1981-10-21 Processing of cellulose fiber

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP16823481A JPS5870786A (en) 1981-10-21 1981-10-21 Processing of cellulose fiber

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS5870786A JPS5870786A (en) 1983-04-27
JPS6367593B2 true JPS6367593B2 (en) 1988-12-26

Family

ID=15864257

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP16823481A Granted JPS5870786A (en) 1981-10-21 1981-10-21 Processing of cellulose fiber

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS5870786A (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110318277B (en) * 2019-05-10 2020-10-13 上海咏姿时装有限公司 Method for manufacturing burnt-out fabric

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5691088A (en) * 1979-12-21 1981-07-23 Nippon Kayaku Kk Baking style processing agent

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5691088A (en) * 1979-12-21 1981-07-23 Nippon Kayaku Kk Baking style processing agent

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS5870786A (en) 1983-04-27

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