JPS6324097B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a special thread made of polyester multifilament thread and suitable for sewing.

Conventionally, various kinds of synthetic fiber yarns used for sewing have been known, and notable examples include yarns made of spun yarns and yarns made by false twisting and crimp processing.

However, the threads conventionally used for sewing are unsuitable for actual sewing, and have many disadvantages. For example, spun yarn inherently has uneven thickness, which causes large fluctuations in yarn strength, which tends to lead to thread breakage during sewing and poor quality of sewn products.
On the other hand, normal false-twisted crimped yarns are somehow more difficult to sew than spun yarns, and it is generally said that it is better for the yarns used for sewing to have fluff.

In view of the above points, the inventors of the present invention have conducted various studies and found that the most suitable thread for sewing is one that is actually easy to sew and has a beautiful finish, and that also improves the finish of sewn products. In terms of beauty, especially ease of sewing, threads have extremely low torque and are converged at the same time, and also have a fluffy or fluff-like protruding fiber structure.
This is what we have learned. Fundamentally, as mentioned above, it is difficult to realize such a yarn using spun yarn, and even using ordinary false-twisted crimped yarn is insufficient in terms of torque and protruding fiber structure, so it is generally extremely difficult to realize. be. In particular, according to the findings of the present inventors, the torque possessed by ordinary false-twisted crimped yarns is completely unnecessary and only causes inconvenience for sewing, and in some cases, The shrinkage characteristics and structure itself are meaningless and unnecessary for sewing.

In view of the above points, the object of the present invention is to use polyester multifilament yarn and utilize false twisting as the basic mechanical fiber processing method, which is impossible to achieve with conventional technology. The object of the present invention is to provide a simple and rational method for manufacturing a special thread that is extremely suitable for sewing that would otherwise be impossible.

This purpose is to pre-heat-treat the polyester multifilament yarn and then subject it to a false twisting process (twisting-heating-untwisting) and a fluid jet treatment process, so that the constituent filaments are intertwined with each other intermittently along the yarn axis direction. The yarn is made into a yarn structure with a large number of filament parts protruding from the yarn axis, and then the yarn alone or in the form of a twisted yarn consisting of multiple yarns is subjected to moist heat treatment to form a specially processed yarn. In the process, the heating temperature of the false twisting process is set to be below (the temperature of the above-mentioned moist heat treatment + 60 °C), and the temperature of the pre-heat treatment is set to be above (the temperature of the above-mentioned moist heat treatment + 60 °C), and the temperature of the pre-heat treatment is This is achieved by using a special method for manufacturing a thread suitable for sewing, which is characterized in that the heating temperature for the false twisting process is +20°C or higher.

Hereinafter, the method for producing a special thread suitable for sewing according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

When torque is present in the thread used for sewing, when the thread passes through the cloth, the thread itself creates a twisted ball in the portion of the thread before passing through the cloth, making it difficult to sew. If the thread is slack, it will crease and be difficult to sew, especially when sewing with a sewing machine. There are many defects, such as an increase in thread breakage due to the tip of the sword, and an increase in thread breakage due to thread entanglement with other parts.

However, in the conventional technology, the following (1) ~
Various measures to reduce the torque as listed in item (5) have been taken as a general treatment method for false twisted yarn, but each of them has been used to reduce torque from a general industrial perspective and when used for sewing. There were also many negative aspects when viewed as a thread that could be used.

That is, (1) A yarn that appears to be a single yarn by aligning and intertwining S false-twisted yarn and Z false-twisted yarn in order to offset each other's torques. Although this yarn is excellent in that it can be made to have no torque at all, it cannot avoid the disadvantages that the manufacturing process is extremely complicated and the manufacturing cost is high.

(2) Yarn made by subjecting false-twisted yarn to heat treatment again by drying or moist heat to reduce torque. Yarns processed by this method are generally well known, but the conventional reheat treatment described above There is a limit to how much torque can be naturally reduced, and no matter how the conditions are set, it is still insufficient as a sewing thread within the range of normally used conditions. In other words, since the purpose was to simultaneously maintain the strength of the yarn, the difficulty in stretching the yarn at low tension, and the crimp of the fibers, high-temperature heat treatment and/or tension heat treatment after false twisting was not considered. .

(3) Yarn made using the additional twist method. With this method, it is possible to reduce the torque to zero under one condition, for example, under no tension, but if heat treatment is applied, tension is added, or the tension is further released, the torque can be reduced to zero. occurs, which is not preferable. This is because the characteristics of the torque for false twisting and the torque for actual twisting are different.

(4) Especially when using a double yarn structure, if the single yarn has no torque, it is possible to obtain a satisfactory result by balancing the first and second twists. Therefore, a good product can be obtained by using double yarn using the apparent single yarn in item (1) above.
Even more than the negative aspects mentioned in item (1) above, the process is complicated and the manufacturing cost is high. Also,
The same applies to the case of a triplet structure or more, or a structure with untwisted, medium-twisted, or ply-twisted.

(5) It is also possible to balance the false twisting torque with the three types of yarn twisting and final twisting by using multiple yarns having false twisting torque, but this has the same disadvantages as described in item (3) above. .

It is.

The present inventors used a polyester multifilament yarn, and in addition to the false twisting process of twisting, heating, and untwisting, a preheat treatment process was performed in particular before the false twisting process, and further, the false twisting process By carrying out moist heat treatment at an appropriate point later and by appropriately combining the conditions of these treatments, the turning ability of the yarn is improved compared to that of the conventional method, even though it is a false-twisted textured yarn. We succeeded in obtaining processed yarn with significantly reduced loss without going through complicated treatments such as The present invention has succeeded in obtaining a processed yarn that is extremely suitable for sewing, in which the protruding fiber structure is firmly formed and fixed, and has been given appropriate cohesiveness. In addition to the idea of achieving this, as mentioned above, the most suitable thread for sewing is a yarn that is bundled and has a protruding fiber structure. This was done based on the unique knowledge that it is best to utilize the crimp and swirling abilities of the twisted filament.

However, in the method of the present invention, the mechanism for forming the protruding fiber structure is not necessarily limited to one that utilizes the crimp ability and swirl ability as described above.

To explain in more detail below, as the most preferable and rational process example, the method of the present invention involves a special false-twisting process followed by a relaxation treatment to form filaments imparted by the false-twisting process. A large number of protruding filament parts are formed based on the crimp ability and swirling ability of the filament, and then a fluid entanglement process is performed to separate the thread parts where the constituent filaments are intertwined and the thread parts which are not intertwined with each other along the yarn axis direction. In addition to this process, a special pre-heat treatment before the false-twisting process and a special moist heat treatment after the false-twisting process are performed. This is done under a heat treatment effect that has a special relationship with the false twist heat fixing effect during false twisting.

The characteristics of this manufacturing process are that it is a thread that is ideal for sewing, and has a protruding fiber structure formation mechanism, the filament's crimp ability, which is imparted by false twisting, and
In addition, the above-mentioned interlacing process to achieve the intermittent entanglement gives the thread convergence, and at the same time, the interlacing binds and fixes the protruding filament part. The effect of false twisting can be substantially and easily reduced by subjecting a yarn in which a large number of are strongly formed in the yarn to a moist heat treatment, or rationally, a moist heat treatment that also serves as a dyeing process. In order to make this possible, a special pre-heat treatment is applied in advance as a step before the false twisting process, and a special moist heat treatment that can substantially substantially reduce the effect of false twisting. By applying this, it is possible to obtain a thread structure that is optimal for sewing as described above.

In the present invention, it is important to appropriately set three conditions: heating temperature conditions for false-twisting, temperature conditions for pre-heat treatment which is a pre-process of the false-twisting process, and temperature conditions of moist heat treatment which is a post-process of the false-twisting process. The pre-heat treatment is such that the false-twisting effect is more easily reduced by the moist heat treatment, and the conditions of the wet heat treatment are such that the false-twisting effect can be sufficiently reduced by the wet heat treatment. At least an intense pre-heat treatment that has a higher heat-setting effect than the heat-setting effect of the false-twisting process that is the subsequent process, and a heat-treatment effect that is higher than the heat-set effect of the false-twisting process that is the previous process, respectively. It is necessary to perform moist heat treatment with a strength of
The temperature of the preheat treatment must be (the temperature of the moist heat treatment + 60 °C) or higher, and the temperature of the preheat treatment must be higher than (the heating temperature of the false twisting + 20 °C), and the temperature of the moist heat treatment must be +60 °C. Generally, the larger the difference between the false-twisting heating temperatures, the more effective it is.

This pre-heat treatment is performed by drying, but it has a remarkable effect on stabilizing the thermal properties of the yarn, such as its strength, resistance to elongation, and heat shrinkage. The effect of the false-twisting process (torque and crimp), which is performed at a lower temperature than the preheat treatment, is made more temporary, and the effect of the false-twisting process is made more temporary by the subsequent moist heat treatment. Furthermore, even if the subsequent moist heat treatment is performed in a relaxed state, the above-mentioned effect of reducing false twisting can be achieved very effectively. Therefore, even if the wet heat treatment is carried out using a winding body or the like, the strength and stretchability of the thread can generally be maintained, and of course such an effect is also useful for sewing. This will prove extremely practical in obtaining suitable yarns.

The pre-heat treatment temperature is 20℃ higher than the heating temperature for false twisting.
If the temperature is not higher than that, or if the relationship between the two temperatures is opposite to the above-mentioned relationship, the above-mentioned effect can hardly be expected and these are not preferred.

The heating temperature for false twisting is the moist heat treatment temperature + 60℃.
It is necessary to do the following, and unless this is done, a significant reduction in the effect of false twisting cannot be expected.

In addition, the temperature of preheat treatment is the temperature of moist heat treatment + 60
It is necessary to determine the temperature relationship between the preheat treatment and moist heat treatment so that the temperature is 210℃ or higher, and the temperature of the preheat treatment should generally be 210℃ or higher, and the lower limit of the heating temperature in false twisting is According to the findings of the present inventors, the temperature should be at least 150°C or higher, since it is necessary to give the filament at least effective crimp ability and swirling ability, even if it is temporary. In actual processing, the heating temperature for the false twisting process may be appropriately determined in combination with the preheat treatment temperature and moist heat treatment temperature.

In the moist heat treatment, in terms of heat treatment effect, either a relaxation heat treatment in which the crimp is exposed and heat treated, or a tension heat treatment in which the crimp is heat treated without exposing it may be employed. However, in order to maintain the strength and stretchability of the yarn, it is generally preferable to perform tension heat treatment. In this case, relaxation heat treatment can also be said to be practical.In particular, in the method of the present invention in which a pre-heat treatment is performed, even if the yarn is subjected to a batch moist heat treatment using a wound body, etc., as described above, the yarn remains intact. A system that follows such a process can also be said to be ideal since it can generally maintain strength and resistance to stretching.

To specifically explain the above process example, a polyester multifilament is subjected to a pre-heat treatment, then subjected to a false twisting process of twisting, heating and untwisting, and then treated with a fluid jet entangling device that achieves an intermittent entangling action. As mentioned above, the heating temperature for false twisting is set at least 20°C lower than the temperature for preheat treatment. When undrawn yarn is used as a supplied yarn and subjected to the process of the present invention after drawing, it is practical to perform the preheat treatment continuously after the drawing. preferable.

The protruding filament portion is mainly relaxed after the false twisting, and conveniently, after the false twisting process is taken off, it is fed to a fluid jet entangling device with a high overfeed, and a relaxed state is formed on the upstream side of the fluid jet entangling device. By being squeezed, the ability of the filament to develop crimp is increased.
A large number of protruding filament portions are formed from the filament itself due to its turning ability, and the protruding filament portions are constrained and fixed by the subsequent intermittent entangling process, thereby forming a strong structure. The protruding filament portion formed in this way is not formed as a cut end of a filament, but is basically formed as a part of a continuous filament, and is caused by the above-mentioned intermittent entanglement. , it will be fixed so that it will not shift or move in the yarn. The shape of the protruding filament portion may be one of arcuate, annular, or twisted shapes, or a combination of these shapes. Although the processed yarn thus obtained has a protruding filament portion, all constituent filament fibers are essentially
They have substantially the same length, and by doing so, in addition to the effect of intermittent entanglement, it is possible to almost eliminate the protruding filament portion from sliding due to external forces such as squeezing action. It is possible to reduce the occurrence of neps, etc., and has a significantly high strength utilization rate of the constituent filaments as a yarn.

In the above process, the crimp ability and turning ability of the filament forming the protruding filament portion are influenced by the conditions of false twisting, but are largely influenced by the number of false twists. When the number of false twists is small, the crimp form becomes large and a large protruding filament portion is formed, but at the same time, crimp development ability and swirling ability are weakened, and when the number of false twists is even smaller, hardly any protruding filament portions are formed. On the other hand, when the number of false twists is large, the ability to develop crimp is strengthened, but the crimp form becomes finer, and the protruding filament parts are formed finely.
As a result, the part that can be called a protruding filament is not formed at all, and the number of false twists applied in the production of ordinary woolly yarn generally corresponds to a range of false twist numbers that cannot form a part that can be called a protruding filament. do. Therefore, it is preferable to set the number of false twists to be slightly lower than the number of false twists in the production of ordinary woolly textured yarn. According to the findings of the present inventors, the range of the number of false twists T (times/m) that preferably forms the protruding filament portion seems to be in the range of 2000<T・(D/ρ) ^1/4 <7000. , where D is the denier number of the polyester multifilament to be false twisted, and ρ is the specific gravity of the fiber. In addition, the relaxed state for exposing the protruding filament portion is easily achieved by supplying the relaxation rate to the fluid injection entangling device after taking off the false twisting process at a high overfeed as described above. It seems best to set it within the range expressed by <{(V ₁ /V ₂ )−1}×100<20,
Here, V ₁ is the take-off speed of the false twisting process, and V ₂ is the take-off speed of the entangling process. After false twisting, when the zone where the relaxed state is formed is divided by the fluid entanglement treatment zone and the take-up roller, the overfeed in the relaxed state zone should be 4% to 20% according to the above formula. Bye. Even when a relaxed state zone is formed in a process system other than these, it is basically preferable to configure the structure according to the range of the above-mentioned relaxation rate or overfeed rate.

Furthermore, after applying false twist in the above process,
It is also possible to apply tension to the yarn by drafting at appropriate times, such as before, during, and after fluid treatment, and by applying such tension, the number and size of protruding filament parts can be adjusted. can do. For example, if tensioning is applied once after false twisting and before relaxation, the number of protruding filament portions formed can be greater and smaller than if tensioning is not applied. In addition, if the yarn is subjected to a drafting action during or immediately after the fluid entanglement treatment, the weaker protruding filament parts will disappear and the stronger ones will be selected and remain, especially those with high tensile strength. It can be made to have a high value.

The processed yarn in which the protruding filament portion is formed and fixed by going through the above steps can be obtained by using other methods of the present invention, for example, by forming the constituent single yarn with two multifilament yarns and using one of them. It is better in terms of neps and strong utilization of the constituent filaments than yarns made by using the yarn as an overfeed, subjecting it to false twisting or fluid entangling treatment as appropriate, and forming a protruding filament part with the filament on the overfeed side. It is excellent.

Regardless of which method is used to form the protruding filament portions in the present invention, according to the knowledge of the present inventors, if the protruding filament portions can be counted at least 200 per meter of yarn, then Effective. The large number of protruding filament portions reduces the coefficient of friction between the sewing needle, the guide, etc., and metals and other materials, and significantly improves the sewability. This will give it an appearance.

In addition, the number of intertwined parts is preferably about 40 pieces/m or more, and the length of the non-intertwined part is about 15 mm.
It seems best to set it to about the following.

The processed yarn obtained in the process described above, in which the constituent filaments are intertwined with each other intermittently along the yarn axis direction, and in which many filament portions protrude from the yarn axis are formed, is subjected to the moist heat treatment as already described. administered. Such moist heat treatment may be carried out in the state of the processed yarn as a single yarn, or in the case where the processed yarn is to be used as a sewing thread in the state of a double-twisted yarn, triple-twisted yarn, etc. This may be done after the yarn is twisted and twisted. In the present invention, when making such a twisted yarn, it is not necessary to take special consideration such as appropriately combining S false twisted yarn and Z false twisted yarn to obtain the combined twisted yarn. It is sufficient if a plurality of yarns are used as they are to form a twisted yarn, and this point can also be said to be one of the features of the present invention.

The effect of false twisting, which is a pre-process, is substantially reduced by such moist heat treatment.

According to the findings of the present inventors, from the viewpoint that the yarn subjected to the moist heat treatment causes problems if the sewing thread has a high turning ability in a non-tensioned state during the sewing process where the sewing thread is subjected to intermittent tension. A state in which the thread is made into a single ring with a circumference of 1 m and suspended by the same thread (a model diagram is shown in Figure 1A. 1 is a sample thread that forms a single ring with a circumference of 1 m, and 2 is a sample thread with a circumference of 1 m). (This is the same thread as the sample thread used to hang the ring.) Furthermore, the ring is loaded with a load W calculated as the denier of the thread x 2 grams = W (grams) (The model diagram is shown in Figure 1). Shown in B. 3 is W
This load is also applied using the same yarn 2' as the sample yarn. ), and then the state in which the load of said W was removed (the model diagram is shown in Fig. 1C), and the no-tension state (Fig. 1A) and the no-tension state after the load was removed during the test process. In the two conditions (FIG. 1C), the ring exhibits a very low turning ability, with the number of free static twists (the number of turning turns) generally being approximately 4 or less. According to the findings of the present inventors, this kind of thread can be said to be an extremely superior thread for sewing compared to any conventional thread, and is significantly cheaper in terms of cost and manufacturing process. This is an extremely reasonable approach that will not cause any significant increase.

In the test process described in ~ above,
Even under either of these conditions, it is generally difficult to say that materials exhibiting a large number of free static twists are suitable for sewing.

The heating temperature for false twisting is (moist heat treatment temperature + 60
When false twisting and moist heat treatment are used in such a manner that the relationship is higher than the temperature of the fibers (°C), it is completely unsatisfactory and undesirable in terms of the effect of reducing the false twisting effect.

The thread obtained by the method of the present invention as described above is subjected to finishing treatment, etc., as appropriate and necessary, and then used for sewing. In particular, it is advisable to perform a finishing heat treatment on the yarn that is to be made into a twisted yarn.

The thread produced by the method of the present invention as described above effectively exhibits excellent characteristics as a sewing thread compared to any conventionally known thread. In the present invention, by performing a wet heat post-heat treatment in addition to the pre-heat treatment, the tension and stretchability of the yarn can be maintained at even better levels.

Note that the method of the present invention is not particularly limited to a method based on the swirling ability and crimp ability of the filament itself as a forming mechanism of the protruding filament, but it can also be formed by using at least false twisting and fluid jet treatment. By combining, the filaments are intertwined with each other intermittently along the yarn axis direction, and many filament parts protrude from the yarn axis.
Needless to say, it can be effectively applied to almost all processing process yarns such as those described in No. 53-11585.

Hereinafter, the specific structure and effects of the method for producing a special thread suitable for sewing according to the present invention will be explained using Examples.

Example Multi-filament of polyethylene terephthalate fiber. A drawn yarn is produced from an undrawn yarn. Following the drawing process, a preheat treatment (dry heat treatment at 230°C while giving an overfeed of 0.6%) is performed, and the thickness is 100 denier and the number of filaments is 100 denier. We made 36 multifilament yarns.

Next, it was subjected to false twisting at 170℃ and S1500T/m.
Subsequently, entanglement was applied using a fluid jet intermittent entanglement device while relaxing the sample by 13.6%.

A triple twisted yarn (lower twist S750T/m, upper twist Z500T/m) is made from the yarn obtained in this way as a single yarn.
Next, it was subjected to moist heat treatment at 130°C using a cheese dyeing machine to make sewing thread.

This sewing thread has a turning ability of S1.8 in each of the above two modes.
times/50cm, S3.2 times/50cm, and had many protruding fiber parts. In addition, when used for sewing, it was found to be excellent.

Comparative example Triple twisted yarn consisting of the following three types of yarns A, B, and C as single yarns (the twist configuration is the same as the above example, but the first twist
Three types (S750T/m, ply-twisted Z500T/m) were made and subjected to cheese dyeing at 130°C.

A: Multifilament drawn yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (100 denier, 36 filaments) B: False twisted yarn of A (false twisting conditions: 215°C,
S3000T/m) C: Reheat set yarn of B (Reheat set conditions: 205℃,
(18% overfeed) The triplet yarn consisting of A had a turning ability of 0 turns/50cm, and the triplet yarn consisting of B and C each had extremely high turning ability.

From this result, the twisting structure in the above example shows that the torques of the first twist and the second twist are extremely well balanced.
It can be seen that the torque during false twisting is almost completely lost.

Furthermore, for each of the triplet yarns B and C, the number of first twists and the number of first twists were variously combined to obtain the false twisting torque,
Although attempts were made to balance the three twisting torques, the lower twisting torque and the upper twisting torque, it was not possible to reduce all of the turning abilities of the two modes.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIGS. 1A, B, and C are model diagrams each illustrating the turning ability of the yarn obtained by the method of the present invention, and show a test method for examining the turning ability. 1: A sample thread forming a single ring with a circumference of 1 m, 2: The same thread as the sample thread used to hang a ring made of sample thread, 2': The same thread as the sample thread used to hang a load of W, 3 : W load.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. After preheating a polyester multifilament yarn, it is subjected to a false twisting process (twisting-heating-untwisting) and a fluid jet treatment process, so that the filaments are intermittent intermittently along the yarn axis direction. The fibers are intertwined and formed into a yarn structure with many filament parts protruding from the yarn axis, and then the yarn alone or in the form of a twisted yarn consisting of multiple yarns is subjected to moist heat treatment to create a special yarn. In the process of forming textured yarn, the heating temperature of the false twisting process is set to below (the temperature of the above moist heat treatment + 60°C), and the temperature of the preheat treatment is set to be above (the temperature of the above moist heat process + 60°C), and further the preheat treatment A method for producing a special yarn suitable for sewing, characterized in that the temperature of the yarn is set to a temperature equal to or higher than the heating temperature of the false twisting process + 20°C. 2. The method for producing a special thread suitable for sewing according to claim 1, wherein the pre-heat treatment is performed continuously after the drawing process of the polyester multifilament thread. 3. A method for producing a special thread suitable for sewing according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the moist heat treatment is also a dyeing process at the same time. 4. A method for producing a special thread suitable for sewing according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the temperature of the pre-heat treatment is 210°C or higher. 5. A method for producing a special thread suitable for sewing according to claim 1, 2, 3, or 4, characterized in that the heating temperature during the false twisting process is 150° C. or higher.